(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!


By 30FathomDave

3 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (1 year ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (1 year ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#866 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

getting MH and then the flippers going back and forth is fing excellent. I just with they would have some sort of light show for the start of MH. If in a MB and MH starts the game should shut down like VJP in Wh20 and really make it something special, as it sits right now MH just happens. Make it matter.

Reminds me of old code on ST, start of Klingon mb. People complained it wasn't very exciting, then Dwight updated it to make it really cool. So hopefully MH gets the same code love.

2 weeks later
#1156 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Too hard to, 67% of all Pinside threads are GB related

That only leaves the Rob Zombie 9k for sale/trade threads. See you there!

8 months later
#2422 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

What's the best way to straighten with 2x target? It's slightly overhanging the lane.
Thanks.

Lift the pf and put a washer under the right side. Works great.

1 week later
#2543 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Yeah, I can't hear the specific noise. I don't know what it even sounds like. There's so much freaking happening, it's difficult to identify the sound.

It's a series of tones. Once you figure it out you'll hear it everytime.

#2544 2 years ago

I wished they used the red outlane insert lights to indicate normal vs reverse flipper mode. Right side for normal and left for reversed. Blinking for change coming.

1 month later
#3132 2 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

This is what I get for not reading this whole thread before really playing my GB premium. An airball flew into my ecto goggles and cracked the LCD screen. Thankfully the mirror survived unscathed. I purchased a replacement LCD node board from Marco but it arrived defective and they are out of stock. Good ol' steve at Marco took both boards back to try and repair them, but I'm still without one for now.
Apparently, the GI is in series with the node board via the two network cables on the back. So the game is dark without it plugged in. In case anyone has this problem, you can run the GI cable directly to the LED board underneath the playfield taking the node board out of the loop. It will still throw a node board error on startup, but you can play with lights on.
I have every ecto goggles metal and plastic shield ready to go for when I get one of those node boards back. Lessons learned.

Did yours already have the left side protector installed from factory? Mine didn't come with one but they shipped it later. Wondering if I still need the full plastic protector.

2 weeks later
#3243 2 years ago
Quoted from thearcadegeek:

Picking up a low play HUO Premium this week. Build date is November 2016 and it is described as perfect - what should I be looking for when i go see it? Thx

Front of the cab at the corners. Mine has a split on the left side. On the playfield, look for insert ghosting, especially the small triangle inserts pointing to the left scoop. But a November build, it's probably fine. Mine is a September build and doesn't have ghosting. Also look for clear chipping at the shooter lane, around the Scoleri Bros, and the drain hole.

1 month later
#3546 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I want the 3D Firehouse Station Mod, can I get it anywhere beside the Stern mod collection? I don't care of the other mods offered in the pack, (well, maybe the PKE mod)

Nope.

#3576 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Do you happen to have a link to the kit? I don't see it anywhere

Sounds like he's talking about the same kit from Stern.
http://costore.com/sternpinball/productenlarged.asp?peid=235&pid=6146368

1 month later
#3825 2 years ago
Quoted from ectobar:

I think it sucks that AYAG isn't in the game, but it's certainly not as simple as 'just add it in'.
How do you qualify it for instance?
Do you just get it after WARTB? Then you would have 3 mbs in a row.
Do you require X number of jackpots or supers in the WCWS mbs? What if you don't get them? Do you have to go through all the modes again?
Not to mention how would the mode and it's scoring work?
I'm doubtful it's ever getting in.
What I'm hopeful for is that maybe at least WARTB gets a scoring tweak or more wishfully some added rules. As of right now it's an extremely disappointing finish.

It really is simple. Second ladder completion becomes WARTBY, and third ladder is AYAG.

3 weeks later
#3964 2 years ago

Just a friendly reminder you can double flip and cancel the WBTD? callout. Have to do it at just the right time, though, so I tend to double flip a lot at the start of the mode to make sure it skips.

2 weeks later
#4044 1 year ago

Goggles Slimer is only available as the last shot.

#4066 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSmiley:

Received my GB Pro on Tuesday, so far no ghosting or any issues. Manufacturing date is July 19th 2017 yet with an older playfield and the "reinforcment" typo.
Playfield is not stamped with a date.
Plays great and is a lot of fun, except for the known plunger issue where the ball hits the gate and wobbles through the right orbit.
Still trying to fix this issue.

You need this part:
www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

2 months later
#4481 1 year ago

I'm having a problem with the left scoop that I remember others reporting. The ball goes in the scoop but doesn't start the mode (when lit). It just kicks the ball out without doing anything. In switch test it appears to work fine. I believe the problem is with the switch, even though the test appears to work. Is that right?

#4486 1 year ago
Quoted from Oxdeadbeef:

You should lift up the playfield and check to see if one of the two black screws on the switch have come loose. I had the same issue on my machine a while back and found a screw in the bottom of the cabinet, put it back where it belonged, and now the left scoop works again.

Ha, that was it. Actually both screws and the plate had fallen into the cab. Guess if it continues to be a problem I'll put on some blue Loc-tite.
While I was at it, I put the Drop Dead foam in the scoop and put the power back to 40, and I get a nice bounce off the right flipper like it's supposed to. Also put in clear 2" rings on the slingshots, but put them on top of the post rings. I tried moving them to the lower position but actually got way less activity.

1 week later
#4574 1 year ago

The PKE multiplier is taking a base value and multiplying it by the number shown to give you the final jackpot value. Hits to the pops will increase the multiplier. The multiplier goes down with time so you have to hit the pops to bring it back up. So PKE would work best in multiball.

EDIT: The pops do increase the value of the pke shot but does not change the multiplier.

3 months later
#4914 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

target base replacements to stop the airballs off the multiplier targets
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest

Just installed mine today. They do prevent airballs from direct hits, but I can still get airballs from edge hits. So I definitely recommend these, but I still need the plastic cover as well. Still a huge improvement because 90% of the time you get a fast ricochet back.

Now to resolve the issue of STDM from the pops. I remember someone posted that they used a spring from a pen (?) to divert the ball so I need to find that. Magna slings can do it, too. Not sure if I want to go center post.

#4929 1 year ago
Quoted from PinCrush:

Please repost if you find it. I can't locate. That would be a huge improvement. Maybe would work for the right orbit too.

Ask and ye shall receive....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/from-hate-to-love…ghostbusters#post-3923444

Quoted from arkuz:

I like setting the left scoop to eject to the right flipper, instead of a droopy drop to the left. That means full power, but might also need a shim placed in the scoop to help the aim.
I also reset the primary flipper return lane guide higher than the way they are when shipped (using a nail set). Conversely, I push the inner guide most of the way down. This reduces bounce-out. As originally configured the ball would almost never travel through the lanes, but now it shoots shockingly fast through them all the time. It will occasionally launch over the guide if it hits the inner rail dead-on, so it helps to have the Mezel mod rail extender created by Cliffy, and for total protection, those plastic extenders to cover the lanes.
The airball plastic for the ramp stand-up targets is a must, though you can also pad those targets from behind to control airballs. With the plastic in place, I have installed a homebrew mod to reduce STDM from the Gozer target area: a spring from a ball point pen precisely centered hanging down, which lets the ball shoot through from the flippers, but usually diverts it a little when coming back down.
I can provide pics/video if anyone is interested.

4 months later
#5449 11 months ago

Not sure how many people backhand the right ramp (I have a premium) but I just figured this out the other day. Once it zipped around so fast the switch didn't register. I do this from a trapped ball. My flippers are also brought up to the normal angle, in line with the lane guides.

#5471 11 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

anyone sell white carrot flippers?

I got white from Marco.

2 weeks later
#5491 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

ColorDMD, shapeways printed target brackets for the 2x and 3x targets to prevent massive airballs on this machine, plastics over the inlanes to prevent ball hops, and cliffy protector for the shooter lane are the must-haves. That said, the 3D printed headquarters is very nice.

In addition, I'm going to try the Mezelmod target splints. Usually I just use a washer under the pf to compensate for learning, but it didn't work with the shapeways bracket. It caused the switch to stay compressed. That left orbit is so tight I don't need target lean to make it worse.

#5503 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

sounds like you used the wedge and not the steel bracket and maybe some addition foam???? The wedges were my first attempt, but the targets need to come up so the brackets improve on this. One of the targets is under a circuit board so a washer is getting close.
I am pretty sure the splints stop the previous stern targets from leaning to a side unless your game has the older targets

No extra foam, just the Shapeways bracket. Using a washer to lean it made the 2x target not register.

#5504 11 months ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I responded to you in the "So Ghostbusters" thread, so I won't repeat everything here. But paying for the post and shipping to make a $6000 game more enjoyable is worth it.

Pinball Life sells it, too. Or if you have a Dremel, you can cut the post.

#5522 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

the brackets already lean the targets forward so doesn't need washers, have you possibly put the washer on the wrong side under the bracket. Have you got a photo of the washers installed? just never heard of this issue and doesn't make sense - seems like something else is in play as the brackets won't affect the switch from working.
The only thing I can think is that in using the angled brackets and a washer increases the angle even more which in turn will lock the target hard up in the hole not allowing the switch to move.
The brackets will never 100% remove air balls but greatly reduces them, one issue that can't be fixed is the pan angle of the target and the way the playfield is made and in hitting the side of the 2x target will still give the occassional air ball. The plastic air ball cover purely limits the height of the airball and does not try to solve the airballs. These brackets get close to solving but the playfield is machined in a way that the pan angle can not be changed unfortunately.
[quoted image]

What I did was put a washer underneath the bracket (between bracket and the pf) on the right side, to make it lean to the right to compensate for the left lean that occurs during play. But it must just be too tight.

#5524 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

yeah that makes sense as there is not alot of room especially a side ways tilt, I don't think any washer, gadget, bracket, protector is going to SOLVE the problem....
- the bracket greatly reduces the air balls to an occassional airball / hop due to the pan angle of the target
- the protector controls the air balls but the ball is still going to get air, hit the protector and then rebound into your playfield and adding dimples
my preference is the brackets as they are steel and will last and I just can't handle the look of the protector - though no offense to the creator/s, just not my thing.

Your brackets are great. I'll try the combo of it plus the splint from Mezelmod to also keep it vertical.

1 week later
#5573 10 months ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I got to StayPuft tonight and put the ball into the Gozer shot / pops three times. It bounced around quite a bit. After the third shot into Gozer I caught the ball to see where things were. The choice multipliers were X2 / X4 / X1 / X2. I shot the left ramp, and it started SP at X4. I shot the right orbit and it was worth X4 (200M). All shots were X4 (200M). So it definitely looks like whichever shot you hit to "choose", that multiplier is applied to all shots.
Maybe this is a code version difference. I'm on 1.13.

The only remaining question is how does it determine which shot to increment the multiplier on with each Gozer hit. It's either random or changed by pop bumper hits.

5 months later
#6102 5 months ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

What are those mats for? Inside the bottom cabinet?

That's carpet pad. Must be for sound dampening to enhance the bass.

#6109 5 months ago
Quoted from Olaa:

JBL STAGE 502 I added a wooden frame
JBL Stage 810 Subwoofer

Another good pair I use is Kicker 41DSC44 and Pyle PLPW8D. These will plug in without need for any modification.

2 months later
#6608 72 days ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Okay GB fans ...
So I Own a Pro Model and played a Premium on location
I enjoyed the lock and slimer moving left and right
Never saw the etco goggle feature work unless the tiny display was broken ..
Explain the Pros and Cons on to either keep my current HUO loaded Pro Vs a Prem
I love my Pro - no regrets
If there is a section in this post please lmk
We’re ready to believe you !!
And Go !!

Magna Slings are awesome and they suck. Great most of the time because they do crazy stuff. But when they throw the ball STDM or set the ball there and it drops, you feel cheated. Maybe center post resolves this.

Also the right ramp has to use a lower hex post. It's still a tough shot but feels great when you make it. I can sometimes backhand it from a cradle.

Metal left ramp is great. Moving Slimer is great.

Premium is harder overall but has more wow factor when playing.

#6613 72 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Im curious why people feel this needs to be done. If its simply to make the shot easier, then thats not for me. I dont like changing how the game is supposed to play.

It doesn't make the shot easier. I believe the issue is that, like many owners, I raised the angle of the flippers to be even with the return lanes. The result is the right ramp is now so far at the end that the ball speed is slower, so it can't make it around the loop. One game I had 7 ramp rejects in a row. The ball would almost make it around, then fall back.

If you're not having that problem, then no need to make a change. But if you are, the hex post under the ramp on the right side can be replaced with a shorter one, 1 5/8".

#6657 68 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

As mentioned there is no setting. However, it has been suggested to get a stiffer/stronger spring to help tame the auto launch a bit. I believe this is the one that people are using.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

It doesn't really fix the problem. I've had that spring for awhile and still get rejects. Hopefully they'll add a strength setting in the big update.

1 month later
#7229 16 days ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Ghostbusters code update is very nice and has some much needed fixes, but the game is way too easy now IMHO. I got to Are You A God on my first game on the new code. Before I only got to We Are Ready to Believe You once or twice ever. The mode completion for just starting a mode makes it so easy. I got Gozer started (which was a very difficult mode before), drained instantly and the mode was complete...so right on to Staypuft next ball. Mode completion on start and multipliers lit for just hitting the ramp and then the gear targets too is just too much of a reward for little effort. I got through the game before even hitting 80 ghosts during normal play. I loved the game before partly because of how difficult it was and this code update has flipped the script and the game has arguably gone from too difficult to too easy.

In Feature Adjustments #30, change Ball End Mode Behavior from "last scene continues" to "scene continues." Voila.

#7235 16 days ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

what is factory setting here? mine was on "scene continues", i dont get scenes completed when losing a ball,
but in the code reveal video they said its completed when losing a ball.

Last scene continues is default. So other modes auto complete.

2 weeks later
#7484 8 hours ago

My 1.17 update wasn't working until I selected "full" with the + key first. If I just pressed Enter to do a quick update, it would just sit for a little while and then say it was finished, but never did an update.

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