(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!

By 30FathomDave

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Rager170
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Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (6 years ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (6 years ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (6 years ago)

Post #10285 Color DMD variants video Posted by wolffcub (2 years ago)


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#4235 6 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

I have done a full 180 on this game. At first was very frustrated with it, could never seem to have a good game. Then I tweaked a few things (got carrot flipper bats, reset slimmer, etc.) and I'm now having frequent really good games. Just finished by best to date and had a blast! Went through every mode except "Back Off Man I'm a Scientist" I didn't even realize you can get to "we came we saw we kicked..." twice (I am not sure, but guessing after I finished StayPuff and a 2nd time after I finished Ballroom) Ended up with 10,449,370,000! So glad I never dumped this pin!

Just make sure you make mention of changed flippers if you log that high score. That really changes the game.. I was always under the impression the reason for the wider gap down the middle was due to having 2 inlanes on both sides..

Im just one of those guys who doesnt understand the point of making the game easier...

1 year later
#6476 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Skill shot mirror is a big plus.

I never understood the need for this. I feel the stock one reflects it just fine and I didnt want to block the city backdrop.

#6479 4 years ago
Quoted from Barkz:

Hey everyone - hopefully picking up a GB pro soon, no mods added to it. wondering if there are mods I just need to have for this pin. I’m thinking the lane guards and the airball protector for sure - anyone else have mods for this pin in their “must have” list? (Example: shaker motor, etc)
Thanks!

Someone years back this guy was selling wedges for the targets by the ramp that cause the airballs. Installing those virtually eliminated airballs on my machine. That and shooter lane protectors are your best bet..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-target-wedges-air-ball-fix

#6482 4 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Agreed. I installed one and soon switched back to stock. Anyone want the mirror version?

I think I may have even bought one way back just in case but realized I never needed it.. ha

#6487 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Will the mirror work out on a premium/le? I think the sooner is more in my way up there than anything else, but I hadn't considered the mirror.

Try without it. As some mentioned, we didnt feel its needed and blocks the city backdrop.

2 weeks later
#6570 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I want to want the stay puft mod.... I just can't imagine it getting out to use when I've only gotten that mode like 3 times

Funny, I have had no interest in that mod since getting a shaker motor installed. The shaker makes the stock Stay Puft move as is..

#6575 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Pretty sure he comes stock on a spring.

Correct, he is on a spring. Thats how I see him bouncing around a bit when the shaker goes off.

#6606 4 years ago

Does anyone know if you can change the auto launch strength? I was looking last night and couldnt find the setting.

#6609 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

some really cool mods on there. where did you get the subway car and ghost in electric chair?

Ive seen that subway car being sold before. its really nice looking but couldnt get it because it completely blocks the PKE letters.

#6610 4 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Magna Slings are awesome and they suck. Great most of the time because they do crazy stuff. But when they throw the ball STDM or set the ball there and it drops, you feel cheated. Maybe center post resolves this.
Also the right ramp has to use a lower hex post. It's still a tough shot but feels great when you make it. I can sometimes backhand it from a cradle.
Metal left ramp is great. Moving Slimer is great.
Premium is harder overall but has more wow factor when playing.

Interesting. Ive never had my magna slings throw it down like that. Lower hex post on the right ramp? is this for the Pro? Ive never had to do that on my premium..

And agree with everything else. Also to note, my octo goggles almost always shows something.

#6612 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

can you or someone post a pic of the hex that needs to be removed?

Im curious why people feel this needs to be done. If its simply to make the shot easier, then thats not for me. I dont like changing how the game is supposed to play.

#6614 4 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

It doesn't make the shot easier. I believe the issue is that, like many owners, I raised the angle of the flippers to be even with the return lanes. The result is the right ramp is now so far at the end that the ball speed is slower, so it can't make it around the loop. One game I had 7 ramp rejects in a row. The ball would almost make it around, then fall back.
If you're not having that problem, then no need to make a change. But if you are, the hex post under the ramp on the right side can be replaced with a shorter one, 1 5/8".

Its a hard shot but it will make it with a good shot. I feel like people really like to mess around with this table, changing flippers and adding posts and stuff...

Thanks for the explanation.

#6634 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Does anyone know if you can change the auto launch strength? I was looking last night and couldnt find the setting.

Bump.

#6646 4 years ago
Quoted from tpir:

No, there is no setting for this.

Oh well thats not good.

Thanks!

#6661 4 years ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Ive never pealed off mylar. Do you have any suggested tools or tips for getting it off?

Heat gun works wonders.

#6662 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

As mentioned there is no setting. However, it has been suggested to get a stiffer/stronger spring to help tame the auto launch a bit. I believe this is the one that people are using.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

Quoted from spidey:

It doesn't really fix the problem. I've had that spring for awhile and still get rejects. Hopefully they'll add a strength setting in the big update.

Thanks for the info.

I recently purchased one of the orbit plastics for $20 to see if it fixes. Havent had a chance to install yet.. I would imagine a simple auto launch setting to lower that down would certainly be beneficial. I feel like any autolaunch never gets around the orbit.. ever.

#6673 4 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I hope everyone else’s day starts better LOL[quoted image]

How did that happen?? Thats the worst!

#6679 4 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?
There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.
I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.
I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.
I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?
Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.

In regards to the auto launcher strength, yes. Mine hardly ever makes it around the orbit from auto launch. I bought a $20 piece that goes over that area that is supposed to keep the ball in place. Let me see if I can find it for you...

In regards to the right ramp, from what I understood, people who wanted to change the way their flippers sat, would need to adjust that ramp to be able to make it as the angle of the flipper changed. Its a hard shot regardless, but luckily I feel that its not needed really all that often. Unless I am wrong and havent seen that yet haha. For me, the only time the ball comes back down is when it isnt a perfect shot. With a good shot, it goes up fine. All these machines are different from one to another, so some need tweaking.

#6680 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

In regards to the auto launcher strength, yes. Mine hardly ever makes it around the orbit from auto launch. I bought a $20 piece that goes over that area that is supposed to keep the ball in place. Let me see if I can find it for you...

Here you go. Not sure if he is still selling them but i would reach out. I have yet to install this. Maybe this weekend.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sale-ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protectors-2

#6682 4 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

I bought one of these but took it off because the ball kept getting stuck on top of it and you couldn't get it off without tilting or removing the glass.

Oh really! Well, lol, I hope that doesnt happen.

Would you be able to drill holes to re-adjust how it sits? Ill have to play with it I guess.

They really really need an auto launch strength option!

3 weeks later
#6850 4 years ago

I just have to say, ive never heard so much complaining about flipper gaps in all my life lol. Am I the only one who is fine with how they are stock??

I just cant really understand the obsession of changing these as it appears the gap would be the same regardless of flipper placement.

#6851 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I just have to say, ive never heard so much complaining about flipper gaps in all my life lol. Am I the only one who is fine with how they are stock??
I will cant really understand the obsession of changing these as the gap would seem to stay the same. .

#6852 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I just have to say, ive never heard so much complaining about flipper gaps in all my life lol. Am I the only one who is fine with how they are stock??
I will cant really understand the obsession of changing these as it appears the gap would stay the same regardless of flipper adjustment..

#6857 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I'm fine with the gap. I just didn't like the "droop," so I aligned the flippers with the ball guides.
It's your game, set up how you like.

No I know but it seems like a lot of the debate is whether or not Stern made a mistake, which I highly doubt.

You mentioned later factory flipper angle.. Did they change the angle and im not aware? If so, perhaps they actually did make a mistake? I havent heard of that before..

From what ive read, in general, about flipper lanes lining up with the dots or ball guides, it seems the majority says to keep it in line with the dots as there are reasons for it as intended from the factory. Also, it seems like a lot of people maybe do it to make that PKE lane shot easier but I feel, for one, its meant to be hard, and two, the game hardly uses that ramp and almost hardly makes it a mandatory shot, so again, seems like Stern set this up on purpose.

#6858 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Maybe some day I will remember to check the drain audits. Mine on location is on a cement floor and is not hard to slide a little bit to try to save a center drain. It's not a rampant issue, but I also don't think most people are draining down the center anyway. This one has hungry outlanes compared to the center.

Agreed. I feel most of my drains are from outlanes. I feel this game is setup so that there arent many direct travels down the middle. Of course, not to say that it doesnt happen, or perhaps ive just been on the luckier side of this not happening often to me..

Speaking of outlanes, one thing that does bother me a bit is that when my ball comes out of the ramp exits, the ball has spin on it and when it hits the playfield, it spins right into the outlane. Drives me a little crazy at times.

#6862 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Yeah! Code is now in testing which means we could see it within the next month or two. I bet it will be out by end of October at the latest.

Lets hope!

#6921 4 years ago

Yes its worth it. I will say, I like most of my games on the Scan mode to make it looks smooth but not for GB. I find far too much blur with that setting and have it to dots xl.

#6922 4 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Did anyone change the color of LEDs on the playfield? I changed the white slingshot LEDs to blue and it looks great.
I wonder what else i can do for nice light effects. Any pics?

I think its harder on this game as most of the lights are LED boards.

#6923 4 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

Just joined the club with this modded premium.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats a nice topper. Anyone know where it can be found?

Its looks kind of like the laseriffic one here, but the one in the picture that was posted above looks to be more 3d.. Expensive!

https://laseriffic.com/products/ghostbusters-pinball-topper

#6926 4 years ago

In regards to the Color DMD topic, what settings do you guys run for brightness and contrast?

Originally I had it at the stock settings. Then I played around with it a bit but cant seem to find a sweet spot. When the "mayors office" scene comes on, the door is now like grey but I feel it should be brown. But when i get the door brown, other colors seem off.

#6931 4 years ago
Quoted from cireone:

Made these cards for Ghostbusters. The art for the title card came from the new video game. Enjoy![quoted image]

Nice.

I wish someone would make nice cards for the coin versions. I like to play with money at home but everything seems to be geared towards free play with these cards...

#6943 4 years ago

I like buying NIB. You dont have to find the secret defects that sellers hide and you can keep it as pristine as possible.

For people like me with OCD, its very rare to find a used machine that is acceptable.

Last time i went to my distributor looking at their used inventory and asking questions about this and that, he looked at me and was like "well, if you have eyes like that, you are best off buying NIB" lol.

#6945 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Good point - you just have to worry about the manufacturer defects ; )
There are so many amazing HUO games out there now that NIB is really such a suckers game unless you need it right away. I'm guilty too as I plan on buying NIB JP when the pf issues are fixed but I wish I could wait and save 100s and get someone's really nice one.
I've sold many HUO games to pinsiders that are NIB quality.

haha, very correct on the manufacturer defects. Especially with playfields. Very unacceptable for such expensive machines..

Im sure there are plenty of HUO games that are in good shape.. not saying there arent. Just hard sometimes as you cannot see the machines ahead of time.

#6972 4 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

This is the only thing it does as of now[quoted image]

Did you make sure that you selected "Spike" for the DMD option? I messed around with a few when I got mine as the screen wasnt aligned right at first. I believe when I selected the incorrect option, it wouldnt show much on the DMD as it must have been incompatible.

#6985 4 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

There’s been a few brief discussions about working out how the topper works. Has anyone disassembled and worked out what sort of node board is in there? Would be great to get a model number, as well as specific dip switch settings.

The topper doesnt work with the game?

#6987 4 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

It does, and it seems it works as a node, receiving certain commands from the game during certain modes / events.
Since they don’t seem to be in production, and are very expensive, it would be cool to see if one could be replicated by understanding which node board is used, which node number, even reverse engineering specific commands?

I hear ya. I wish they didnt stop production on toppers so quickly. I am kind of interested in one as well. The $500 price point is hard to pull the trigger on..

-1
#6989 4 years ago
Quoted from T7:

You should watch the new code reveal tomorrow night (Wednesday)

haha, im curious how many people will be disappointed by the new code. Seems the hopes and dreams are alive for this one! Some people seem to act like they will be getting a whole new game. Hey, I hope I am wrong but keeping expectations on the lower side.

#6995 4 years ago
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:

I cannot wait for the code to come out. Not for the excitement of getting it, but so I don't have to hear about it again. It's like my friends that are insufferable Tool fans, they've been posting "New Tool album in the works" articles since the last album came out.

Yeah it's not that I don't care what he did, I care. But it seems rash to get rid of your machine to show genuine disgust in what the man did. GOTG seemed like it was the last machine where Stern actually care about fickle players like me that want toys and ramps. GB is VERY busy but I really enjoy it.

Ok what exactly did he do?

#6997 4 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

Added a third scoleri brother.

LOL!

I read online and found it, so I removed my original post...

#7007 4 years ago

I really hope they added an auto launch coil adjustment. My ball hardly ever makes it around the orbit from launch and its due to it being shot too hard.

#7010 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Notice it says “game code overhaul”[quoted image]

What does that supposed to mean?

#7015 4 years ago

Quick question since im not at home to look. Can anyone tell me what size washers are used for sling areas? I took my airball protector off last night and lost a couple washers. Wanted to get them on my lunch break and forget what size they are. I know they are the same size as the sling nuts..

#7018 4 years ago
Quoted from tpir:

Probably that the mode structure itself has changed somewhat. Dwight discussed things that stack and don't stack in the interview he did not long ago and cleaning up the flow and clunkiness of some things interrupting others. The only small item I am hoping for is the Scoleris not staying up the entire time during Storage Facility Mulitball.
Can't wait!!
Let's goooooooooo!!!!!!

Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

It alludes to a total rework of the code not just features or bug fixes. Either way I'm excited this pin is getting some love and attention again.

Gotcha. Lets hope all the hype is real! im holding back my excitement until I hear what the code is all about. I dont want to pull a Willy Wonka on this haha.

#7054 4 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Yay beta testers! Thanks for the callout Dwight!
You guys pretty much got all the high points. I didn't see mentioned the addition of flipper and auto launcher coil power controls. Turning these down have really improved overall gameplay for me anyway. Another subtle change is that to start the right ladder the ball has to go all the way around the full orbit. Starting this ladder is no more a gimmie with a backhand.

Yes, auto launch setting!!

#7110 4 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

It was mentioned when they were showing off the library changes. Jack was getting ready to plug his ears and Dwight mentioned to him that the screem was turned off but still in the game.

Wish they added a volume setting for this. I love the feature but its just wayyy too loud, so i have it turned off.

#7112 4 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I would have also taken a timer. I sometimes play after my wife and kids go to bed. The librarian scream is a no go once they are sleeping.

Exactly my problem! I got the scare scream from my wife the last time the game scream came on at 12am lol.

#7153 4 years ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

OK, kids. I have some questions. I was seriously considering the purchase of a Ghostbusters pin this week. However; I read through this thread and I’m a little concerned. My family loves the theme but I would consider a couple of them novice players. My teenagers are starting to become decent pinball players. My wife isn’t that good but really likes to play pinball. My concern is that she’ll experience quick plays and not enjoy the game. I’m not sure new code would solve that problem. Should I ditch the thought of buying a Ghostbusters? Is your experience that novice players hate the game? Is there enough toys and new code features to keep the novice player happy?

I, like many others, love this game. Like any game, I feel you can have short games and then have your long games. I dont feel that this is any shorter than any other normal game.

When my friends come to play, and none of them know anything about pinball at all and are as novice as it gets, they all LOVE it!

#7155 4 years ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

OK, kids. I have some questions. I was seriously considering the purchase of a Ghostbusters pin this week. However; I read through this thread and I’m a little concerned. My family loves the theme but I would consider a couple of them novice players. My teenagers are starting to become decent pinball players. My wife isn’t that good but really likes to play pinball. My concern is that she’ll experience quick plays and not enjoy the game. I’m not sure new code would solve that problem. Should I ditch the thought of buying a Ghostbusters? Is your experience that novice players hate the game? Is there enough toys and new code features to keep the novice player happy?

I believe there is a distributor in Pittsburgh. Perhaps you could give it a try if they have one?

#7158 4 years ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

There are a couple of dealers within 2.5 hours of my home. Getting there during the week is not an option. One dealer was willing to meet me on the weekend to play the games. I didn't want to make the drive and waste their time if pinsiders told me it's disastrous for new players. I'm really only concerned about my wife. She's brand new to pinball.
Thanks for the feedback!

I would say that if you like the Ghostbusters theme, you cant go wrong because they really did pack it full of great features from the movies. That is what my friends really get a kick out of, and then of course playing it.

#7161 4 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Stop posting in this forum, each time I see a lot of activity I think new code is here. I can not control myself anymore

Thats why there is a GB Code thread separate!

#7175 4 years ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

The game appears great at first, like Wonka, but when you get to the meat and bones, you realize it's three shots only. Left orbit, right orbit, left ramp. I've owned it twice since my wife insisted it was her favorite game. The second she realized the layout sucks. No amount of code can save it, just like Wonka.

I dont agree. Ive owned it for years now and never get sick of it. I like the change up from my other pins and the flow is good.

#7230 4 years ago

Question for you guys on the auto launch. Is the left gate supposed to be closed often to divert the ball to PKE? I feel like often from auto launch, and noticed last night after locking a ball, that when it auto launches, it wont do an orbit but hits the gate and goes to PKE.

Normal?

#7233 4 years ago
Quoted from T7:

It depends on what's happening in the game at the time of the auto-launch. Sometimes the gate will open and sometimes it stays closed. Have you tried testing the gate in the test menu? If it works in test, it's probably fine.
If it works in test, and you want to verify...
- One of the times it's always open is if you lose the ball right away after the plunge and the ball save activates
- Try losing the ball right away a bunch of times (each on a new ball)
- if the left gate doesn't open in these tests, you have an issue

Ok thanks. Thats exactly what I needed to know. I wasnt sure if the ball from auto launch might be missing the switch..

#7240 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

So I see code is separate for LE and Prem......did anyone compare and see what the difference was?

I was curious about this also. I did notice that the Premium code file is named LE once downloaded.

#7328 4 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Do you guys do the Quick update or full update option?

I didnt get that option this time around.

#7329 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

I bought the PKE Mirror Mod a month ago but I'm a total newb so I've been a little scared of the instructions saying to unscrew the back of the playing field from the top / botttom and disconnect everything etc... Anybody have any luck screwing that thing in an easier way or do I just have to face my fears? Thanks G

Its really not needed at all imo...

#7367 4 years ago

Question for you guys... recently ive noticed that it seems like my magna slings are lifting the ball ever so slightly when engaging heavily. I can hear the ball dropping ever so slightly. I do have the rubbers flipped for more action but I dont recall this happening before recently. Im not sure if its the new code or if there is a setting for the magna slings?

Any ideas?

#7401 4 years ago

I like the cat. Keep it there. People think far too much. Boycott everything! lol

And if it is removed, then they certainly should be adding some stuff. Otherwise, animations for the ecto goggles just got slimmer than they already are.

#7404 4 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I would say we also remove the flippergap, since that was his trademark! No one ever had such a personal flippergap in a game.

At this point, whatever makes people stop complaining about them lol.

I have far more drains via outlanes than I do the flipper gap. Far more..

#7417 4 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

what do you mean by "every shot", backhand the right pke ramp?

The PKE definitely isnt meant to be backhanded. Its supposed to be a hard shot.

#7418 4 years ago

Does anyone know where I can buy replacement Scoleri Brothers target decals?

#7419 4 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I don't like the droopy flippers on this game for two main reasons:
1 - It's more difficult to trap the ball (the game is already hard enough as it is).
2 - You can't easily backhand the left ramp.

Why is it assumed that a backhand shot should be easy??

#7420 4 years ago
Quoted from JoshODBrown:

You know what drain I get ALL the time, and it drives me bonkers on this game... sometimes the ball will come very quickly through the left return and i barely have time to flip at it and end up accidentally shatz'ing it up through the right return up and out, it then bounces off the rubber just to the bottom right of the Storage Facility eject and floats gracefully and perfectly over into the left outlane. It happens so fast, you feel like you got robbed.

You know what drives me crazy... when the ball comes from one of the ramps back to the lanes and it has spin on it, touches the playfield and spins to the outlanes! Happens all the time. Too much wax perhaps. I feel like i get robbed on those all the time.

#7422 4 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I didn't assume anything. I just said I didn't like it.

haha fair enough.

#7424 4 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

The bounce arounds suck! That angers me more than the flipper gap.

The flipper gap has never bothered me but this other thing drives me crazy!!!!!

#7425 4 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

Anyone have a source showing the actual (2019) intended flipper angle?
I want to go back to original. i allready removed the carrot flippers and made the originals droopy, but i dont know how much exactly.
i started playing pinball 3 months ago with the carrots and the funny thing is, removing the carrots didnt increase the center drain for me.
the droopiness even makes the left target much easier, because the ball somehow wont go crazy so much.
here is my actual flipper angle. you can see the little hole in front of the flipper as orientation.[quoted image]

This is exactly how mine looks. Its ever so slightly off the dot mark. I havent felt it being enough of an issue to mess with changing the flippers. My luck a 15 minute flipper fix will turn into a 2hr ordeal lol

#7475 4 years ago
Quoted from oradke:

Better: Downlaod to Harddrive first, then copy to stick.

This is certainly the way to do it..

1 week later
#7528 4 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

One allen wrench needed and loosen 2 screws. Line up and tighten. One of the easiest things to do on a pin.

Why was I under the impression it is a PITA? I thought people have mentioned how hard it is to loosen the one screw and then how tight it needs to be to make the the flipper stays?

#7532 4 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

Taking flippers out is easy! The hard part is putting them back in, aligning them correctly and making sure they are tightened enough. It is a bit of a process: line em up, tighten, realize they aren't quite right, loosen, adjust, tighten, repeat?... Plus some machines are more cluttered under the playfield around the flipper mechs which can make it harder to deal with.
With that being said, it really isn't complicated, it can just take some time.

Quoted from sethi_i:

I know what you're talking about. I actually cracked the inside of the handle on my allen driver trying to loosen one on my MMr. It was unbelievably tight. So, I got a t-gripped allen wrench, and it came loose with moderate effort.

Gotcha, thanks. Ive never needed to adjust/replace, but I know the day will come.

#7533 4 years ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I know what you're talking about. I actually cracked the inside of the handle on my allen driver trying to loosen one on my MMr. It was unbelievably tight. So, I got a t-gripped allen wrench, and it came loose with moderate effort.

Are all pins using the same sized allen wrench to remove this? If so, would you be able to tell me what size is needed? Would like to buy a T-gripper one to have on hand.

#7536 4 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Yea they are as far as all of the ones I have ever seen. I would recommend a set like I have. It's not exactly these but it's the same concept. It gives you a lot of leverage as well as a comfortable handle to torque with.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-13-key-Standard-SAE-Hex-Key-Set/50385798

Thats a pretty cool product, never seen that before.

Thanks!

#7537 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Getting an ”award tobins guide” from tobins guide gives you the same” awards” At least for the premium. This must be a bug?! Getting “light extra ball” twice is pretty sweet tho . Hah

Sounds like a bug to me.

#7574 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Does anyone know the difference between all the shaker modes? Got on default but the storage facility is a little long at end for me. But if I change it I don’t want to lose much

I turn mine down a level or two.

#7582 4 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Yea they are as far as all of the ones I have ever seen. I would recommend a set like I have. It's not exactly these but it's the same concept. It gives you a lot of leverage as well as a comfortable handle to torque with.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-13-key-Standard-SAE-Hex-Key-Set/50385798

FYI, I bought this and lets just say, it was a quick return. Bad product. The handle doesnt hold the smaller wrenches steady by any means.

#7584 4 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Sorry to hear that. Like I said, it wasn't exactly like mine but of a similar vein. I looked online and found mine (a WAGIC design) to illustrate how it works. I have had it for about 10+ years and it works amazing. Figures that they would take a product that actually works and redesign it to ineffectiveness. Best part is that it sits inside a channel and locks down with the cover to secure it with different sized holes to fit the different sized wrenches. I have torqued the heck out of it and the wrench and the handle haven't flinched. If you can find this set (in its Kobalt or Husky counterpart), I would highly recommend picking it up
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. This actually looks like a much better design..

#7604 4 years ago
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:

I have a question regarding the nudging on GB.
On other games it makes more sense to me, since the inlanes/ outlanes have rubbers on the top.
Normaly shaking will cause the ball to move outwards, but with the metal rail guide the ball seems
to stick to the metal once it touches it and it will find the way down the outlane.
What is your way to nudge the GB pin? I'm interested in every insight you can give me.

If its sticking, perhaps the balls got magnetized a little?

2 weeks later
#7686 4 years ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Finally made a bibliophilic commitment and modded out my GB-LE with some really cool, realistic miniature occult books I had. Looks better than the lighted books mods I've seen. What do you think?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It looks good but how it is going to handle airballs? I have one of the book stack mods and it gets hammered by them.

#7689 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Airball protector on that left ramp side and flippers set to soft and haven't had a single airball. I have the colored book stack mod from ModFather and it’s never been hit once.

Yea thats the one that I have. It gets hit so often that the bracket is bent and i had to raise it up. I have the airball protector also.

#7693 4 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Which airball protector is everyone using? I would think that there should be enough play time on all the different versions now that one has risen to the top as the design of choice.

I forget I bought mine so long ago. I did just buy the Shapeways brackets for the targets since I still get airballs, so hoping this will fix it for good.

#7701 4 years ago

Woohooo, just ordered my Laseriffic Topper for 20% off Black Friday deal.. Excited.

#7713 4 years ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

How did you get the discount? I checked on getting one and it still shows full price

Sorry, just saw this. I think it was discounted from the start. Were you able to get it?

#7720 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Has anyone installed the Cliffy scoop protectors for Librarian and SF scoops? I’m going to install them this wk on my GBprem and just wondering how much playfield has to be pulled off to get to these guys? Thanks for any advise!

Yours didnt come with protectors already??

#7721 4 years ago

Anyone have install instructions for the Laseriffic topper? It came with an instruction sheet but I cannot read the image on it. Just need to know where it plugs into in the backbox.

Thanks.

#7724 4 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Anyone with an led colordmd on GB, what do you have your settings at?

Contrast at 8 and brightness at 4 i think. Something like that.

#7725 4 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Anyone with an led colordmd on GB, what do you have your settings at?

Quoted from Rager170:

Anyone have install instructions for the Laseriffic topper? It came with an instruction sheet but I cannot read the image on it. Just need to know where it plugs into in the backbox.
Thanks.

Anyone?

#7726 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Anyone have install instructions for the Laseriffic topper? It came with an instruction sheet but I cannot read the image on it. Just need to know where it plugs into in the backbox.
Thanks.

Anyone?

#7728 4 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Did you check there site or YouTube?

Yes and yes.... I see one for Dead Pool and am assuming it might be the same since that is Spike system also.

#7730 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Yes it came with factory ‘copycat Cliffys’ but they are thin/cheap and both have buckled just enough to throw the trajectory of the ball off to send it down the drain randomly.
So does anyone have any experience with putting the Cliffys on GBprem scoops? Or is everyone busy over on the SW Topper posts lol.....THX for any help!

I dont think ive heard of anyone having a problem with the ones that came from Stern..

I have heard of people having issues with the scoop not relating to the cliffy pieces on the playfield. I dont really think it makes sense for the playfield protectors to be causing your ball to be off trajectory. The VUK's launch the ball upward hitting the scoop and out, not touching the playfield protector. At least thats how I have thought it works and why they have those "scoops" there..

#7731 4 years ago

Another question for those with the Laseriffic topper.

It says to plug into CN6.. but I have a color dmd that already is plugged into CN6.

Any ideas?

#7735 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Color DMD usually sends a splitter. That’s all you should need

Thanks. I think i still have the box so ill check that..

#7736 4 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Color DMD usually sends a splitter. That’s all you should need

Mine did not come with a splitter after checking. I have all the original hardware that came with it. All that I found is this, but im pretty sure this came off of my TWD machine..

20191207_082153 (resized).jpg20191207_082153 (resized).jpg
#7738 4 years ago

For the Laseriffic topper.. This doesnt come with a remote? Mine just changes colors very quickly. Is that what it is supposed to do?? Not really liking that. If anything, a slow fade would be good but this is almost like a strobe...

#7754 4 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

As bicyclenut mentioned, the ColorDMD should have come with an adapter and splitter (SEE ATTACHMENT). This will allow you to hook the ColorDMD into the CN6 connection and leave an additional +12v connection to hook another mod into. Unfortunately...that extra connection is the SAM type +12v connection and not the CN6 type.
I have seen this mentioned on multiple threads and it is becoming a bigger issue. That open (from the factory) CN6 connection is getting way too crowded. Many mod makers are flocking to it, seemingly without any concern about where people are going to plug other powered mods into. I think it would have been best for all mods to have stuck to the classic SAM type +12v power connection and include adapters to hook into the CN6 or some other +12v open connection on the game if they would like to. As it is, getting splitters and adapters that use the SAM type connection are easy to find, easy to make and cheap. As for the CN6 connection....I have found one source to add 1 additional CN6 type connection (making 2 total) and it was $40. If mods had the SAM type connection, a person could get a more affordable 8 way splitter to plug into the CN6 connection and have plenty of room for other +12v mods to plug in.......as long as those mods are using the classic SAM type power connection.
https://www.pinballlife.com/8-way-power-splitter-board-for-stern-pinball-machines-using-the-spike-spike-2-system.html
[quoted image]

Correct. The problem with the Spike connection is that it uses that CN6 as you mentioned. I found a cheaper mod to use as an adapter for it that should work, specifically for toppers but it also adds another one of those CN6 type connectors as well as the 12v connector. Link below if anyone else is having this issue.

https://lightedpinballmods.com/product/taps/power-tap-for-spike-pinball-machines-with-molex-and-led-connector/

#7766 4 years ago

Figured I would post this here as well as the GB issues thread for anyone who might be able to help:

Have another issue with my machine. All of a sudden my left Scoleri Brother target will not stay up. Comes up and shoots right back down. Its not machine gunning... I took a quick look and I didnt see the drop ledge broken or anything out of the norm. When I do it manually to raise the target with my finger, it stays up.

Seems strange. Any ideas?

#7768 4 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Likely a stiff spring. Common on GB.
Lift the hood, remove the spring and very gently pull down until you loosen some of the tension. You should be good after that.

Ill give it a try, thanks. Just strange that it happened now when ive had the springs in for years..

#7770 4 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Likely a stiff spring. Common on GB.
Lift the hood, remove the spring and very gently pull down until you loosen some of the tension. You should be good after that.

What actually fixed it was to extend the spring that pushes against the target, essentially to make it push stronger. That seemed to fix it.

#7779 4 years ago

Ill never understand changing the game to make it easier..

#7789 4 years ago
Quoted from turbo2nr:

yeah, that does look cornfusing. Latest update was yesterday, but that conflicts with just below that says 11/6/19
I am going to update mine now anyways and see if something changed

Let us know please. I find this strange also.

2 weeks later
#7828 4 years ago

Regardless of how people think he should be shooting from the shooter lane, the ball should still orbit when given a full shot, so something is wrong..

#7830 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Isn’t there a cover for the right orbit bend that helps with this?

I installed that and in my instance, it didnt help at all.

Funny enough, my problem was different than his. My problem was with the auto plunger never making it around but doing it manually was never a problem. Luckily for me, the new code gave an auto plunger adjustment and now my problem is gone.

That curve there on GB is a bad design with the way the ball comes out from plunge.. but im sure its fixable one way or another.

Perhaps that cover might work for them. He needs to really take a good look at what is making the ball stop its travel.

#7837 4 years ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

I'll try to record it in slow mo

That will definitely help to figure the problem...

#7839 4 years ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

Is there a way to put the game in test mode? Or more specifically, open the two orbit Gates with the game not on or just in service mode?

Not that I am aware of but maybe others could chime in..

#7842 4 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

I noticed modes can be timed out by cradling up a ball, then toggling through the menus after the timer stops. When your menu toggle gets back to the game mode running, the clock ticks down again another 6 seconds each time (Repeat to finish mode while cradled).
I was on a Premium. Might work for Pro, heck might work in all modern Stern games that try (and fail) to stop the timer. Anybody noticed?

Can you explain what you mean by toggling though the menus?

#7849 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Instant info. Not service menu.

I think that is what was confusing me.

1 week later
#7872 4 years ago
Quoted from Patrunkenphat7:

After playing this game a lot I think the flipper gap can be a fun challenge, and the outlane posts (particularly left outlane) feel way more unfair than the often maligned flipper gap. It’s pretty difficult to nudge the ball out of the outlanes with factory setting posts. Do the majority of owners have posts in the easier setting or add rubber to make it easier to leverage nudging?

Id always leave them at factory settings. I dont like to make my games easier..

1 week later
#7877 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

In need of help. Slider will not go into his home position on my premium . Been doing this a while. Finally realized it had a test in the settings (I’m fairly new) and ya it turns out,he can’t seem to get there. Anybody have any help would be amazing !! Here’s a video of the test times out at the end.
[quoted image]

Sorry, not seeing the issue. My Slimer sits with its tongue against that building that yours seems to be resting at...

#7878 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

In need of help. Slider will not go into his home position on my premium . Been doing this a while. Finally realized it had a test in the settings (I’m fairly new) and ya it turns out,he can’t seem to get there. Anybody have any help would be amazing !! Here’s a video of the test times out at the end.
[quoted image]

I believe, if you unscrew the screw that connects the rod to the arm, you can fix the position.

Personally, what you are experiencing wouldnt and doesnt bother me the least.

1 week later
#7888 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

It wouldn’t bother you if part of your game is malfunctioning? Hmm. I will try n fix the position like you say. Hopefully I can make his starting position lower.
Start a game, miss your skill to start a mode, hit ghost target and slimer just stays up. Therefore you cannot ever start a mode. I think this would bother you. I’m fairly new to this hobby as well. But this is an issue.

I wasnt aware that your game was malfunctioning. All I saw was a picture of what looked to be normal...

#7890 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

All good. I managed to fix it ! Tightened a little hex bolt on the outside of motor. This seemed to tighten everything up and now he works great again !

Awesome! Glad you got it fixed!

#7914 4 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

The fix in his video is for targets that doesn't go down. My problem is the left target won't stay up. But i think i will play around with the spring and see if i can change anything.
Another question:
When i shoot the ball up the storage facility ramp, it's not always registered. I think there is only one switch on that ramp, right after the right turn. And if i test that switch in test mode, it's impossible for me to get the ball past the switch without it registering, no matter what i do (sliding it along both edges, center, "top" and bottom). The ball simply doesn't seem to be able to pass the switch without being registered. But in a game it happens! Very frustrating, as its quite an important shot.
Can it be a bad switch, and the speed alone that does it? Or what on earth could it be?

I had this problem recently and it wasnt a problem with the lip that it sits on. My issue was that the spring that pushed the target sideways (not the longer skinner one that makes it go down), got compressed after time. All I needed to do was take it out, stretch it and put it back in. By stretching it, it essentially creates more pressure and it pushed on the lip harder.

It solved my issue of the target not staying up.

#7921 4 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

‘Cleland’ is Pinside slang for any custom soundtrack. He did such a great job with TWD and GOTG that his name is synonymous with custom work.
It’s like Coke.
“What kind of Coke do you want?”
“Diet root beer.”
While he did not do GB to my knowledge, Cleland has done a ton of great custom work.

And that is why these are opinions.. I didnt like the Cleland code for TWD at all... And I enjoy crude humor lol

Personally, I think the GB audio is great all around. I wouldnt change a thing..

Again, all opinions and worth checking out to see which you like best.

#7922 4 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

‘Cleland’ is Pinside slang for any custom soundtrack. He did such a great job with TWD and GOTG that his name is synonymous with custom work.
It’s like Coke.
“What kind of Coke do you want?”
“Diet root beer.”
While he did not do GB to my knowledge, Cleland has done a ton of great custom work.

Lol, and I have never heard anyone call any kind of soda Coke.. Thats new to me. But interesting all the same.

#7925 4 years ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

That's how it was growing up in So. Indiana. We even told the same joke! (but we never used diet root beer as the punchline )

Interesting... i thought it might be a southern thing at first but noticed the poster was in NJ...

The only thing I see like that is saying Coke for whatever cola might be offered.. Rootbeer is not cola! lol

#7927 4 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I’m a southern transplant in NJ, so everything is still Coke. Plus I say ‘ya’ll.’ I’m like an alien.

lol hahaha

#7931 4 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

SPIKE noob question... Sorry
So i wanted to install one of the sound mods today. Got myself a USB drive, and a new SD card. Formatted both as FAT32
Copied the spk file to the USB, and then inserted the SD card in the backbox, followed by the USB stick, and then turned on the machine. And nothing happens. It just shows the Stern logo.
If i insert the original SD card i see the update menu.
So is it correct that i either need to clone the original card to the new one, and then update? Alternatively download the SD Card iso from the Stern website, write that to the card, and then update?
I was hoping that i could just insert a clean SD card and then firmware on the system would still allow me to update?

Did you switch the dip switch in the backbox?

#7934 4 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

No? Would that allow me to install directly to an empty SD card?
Like i said, i'm a SPIKE newbie, so its all pretty new to me. I'm used to burning U6 roms for WPC

Unless im mistaken, to install a new code, you turn the machine off, plug in the usb stick, flip dip switch 7 or 8 (I forget which one exactly), and then when you turn the machine on it find the new update on the SD card.

For the game code, you should be able to just have the spk file on the card.. simple as that. Just make sure its not in a folder or anything and its blank otherwise..

#7935 4 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

No? Would that allow me to install directly to an empty SD card?
Like i said, i'm a SPIKE newbie, so its all pretty new to me. I'm used to burning U6 roms for WPC

Now im wondering if I am mixing this up with my Sam system and the dip switches.. Sorry, i feel like I am causing more confusion than help.

have you tried a different memory card? Also, make sure the file name is correct? I remember last time I did an update, I already had a code in my "downloads" folder and it named my new code xxx.spk(1). that number after it messed it up and wouldnt let it update..

#7948 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Awesome, thank you so much!

Thats a great looking mod and one that I wanted but thought it would block the PKE letters at the top of the game.

Does it block them?

#7952 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks. Yeah I would prefer connectors like those above versus alligator clips. If I did want to move forward with the alligator clips can I safely connect them like above or should they each be on one GI build versus 2 like I have in the pic?
[quoted image]

Perhaps you can strip some of the wire to be bare and then clip. This way you dont have to wire it like the picture. There are also those clips that grab onto a wire and "cut" into it.. a way of splicing.. I am not sure what they are called but they might help you as well.

#7956 4 years ago
Quoted from Meegis:

It sounds like you're describing a wire tap.

Yes, thats it..

#7957 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks. Yeah I would prefer connectors like those above versus alligator clips. If I did want to move forward with the alligator clips can I safely connect them like above or should they each be on one GI build versus 2 like I have in the pic?
[quoted image]

This is what I was talking about. Something similar. There are a lot of different types.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=asc_df_B01CDWC60Y/

#7959 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Those are certainly more solid than clips.
Does anyone know the name (assuming there is one) for pin-like taps? I've seen them mentioned on here before and I don't know what they are called. They look like male bread board jumper wires. The end looks like these and you can "push" them into an excising connector instead of "Tapping" the wire:
amazon.com link »

Ive honestly never had an issue with alligator clips. I feel like they bite hard and dont come off...

#7985 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Yeah given the shipping cost and everything, I'm going to try to make my own out of foam weatherstripping before I pay that much for the gasket... It's not that I think the gasket itself is overpriced but since I can't combine shipping now it's the shipping cost that hurts... If I can't figure it out after a trip to Lowes then okay fine, I'll spring for it...
Jeff

I have them on my machines. Its a perfect fit, so imo, its worth it.

2 weeks later
#8097 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You can turn it off in the settings. Most people do. It's annoying.

I love that feature, but man, they really need a volume control for it. I had to turn it off also because its just too loud.

#8099 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Finally got around to installing color dmd and wondering why slimmer is blue?

Thats strange. I dont have that issue.

#8102 4 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Could it be an adjustment ?

Not that I am aware of. What are the contrast and brightness settings? Also, did you pick the correct machine type when selecting for the colordmd setup initially?

#8104 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

There is a setting for which "mode"/"type" of panel. there are two settings: RGB or GRB (I think it's GRB). At any rate, it's a different sequence of RGB. Try changing that and see if that fixes it.

There is also a setting for machine type, Sam, Spike.... I originally entered the wrong system and it made my display do weird things. Once I switched to the correct one, it fixed everything.

#8106 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Interesting. Is that on the LCD version? All I have are the LED versions and that isn't a setting on any of them.

Yes, LCD.

#8107 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Interesting. Is that on the LCD version? All I have are the LED versions and that isn't a setting on any of them.

Perhaps it has to do with the different settings that you can use on the lcd version, like Hi resolution, scan lines...

#8109 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Just don't try to turn the machine off when the scream starts. It will leave your volume setting at maximum when you turn the machine back on. Learned that one the hard way.

Oh wow hahaha. That is interesting and something I would not want to find out the hard way! lol

#8130 4 years ago

Does anyone have a fix for my issue where when hitting the PKE ramp, the ball comes down the wireform, hits the playfield and spins out to the left drain? Happens so often its a problem.

#8132 4 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Seems like I bent the ramp ever so slightly so that when the ball drops it will spin back toward the in lane.
I think I tried different angles until I found something that worked.
Crazy how that fing ball will jump into the out lane from that ramp...

Thanks. Where did you bent it? At the point where it connects to the lanes?

#8134 4 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Yes, the nut on the left sling.
It seems like if the ball drops and has a chance to catch the rubber in that area it will kick off to the out lane. You could check for this as well.
I bent the ramp in the direction to keep the ball from hitting this and letting it drop cleanly on the PF without touching the sling rubber.
Your case could be different but I tested it a bunch with the glass off and finally found something that worked. Worst case it will spin into the second in lane instead of going all the way out.
Good luck!

Oh ok, I see what you are saying. Thanks for the suggestions. I need to do something, its killing any chance of a good score it seems.

I was thinking of rigging something to the wireform itself to essentially slow the ball, or stop its spin so it goes down straight.

#8137 3 years ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Finally joined the club last weekend with a premium. This pin is awesome. I saw some pics of flipper toppers with the Ghostbusters logo and Ghostbusters spelled out on them, but I can’t find them for sale anywhere. Anybody know where I can buy them? Thanks.

I have them on mine but bought them a long time ago from someone on here.

Unfortunately I dont believe they are around anywhere.

1 week later
#8154 3 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I love it. No need to turn it off unless your play time typically occurs until after everyone has gone to bed.

My play time is almost always when the family is asleep. Wife, almost a 4 year old and a 7 month old leaves me with only later hours to play.

1 week later
#8167 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I recommend this over any of the mirror mods, imo it's a light-years better solution:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/ghostbusters-pinball-mods/products/ghostbusters-pinball-pke-illumination

Never seen that one before, thats a good one!

Personally Ive never had an issue seeing them as stock, but that is the mod I would certainly get if I had an issue.

#8170 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Do most folks run the custom audio code package from mudflap?

No, i think the stock audio is great as it is.

#8181 3 years ago
Quoted from Phatchit:

1: Is just a basic 555 wedge socket with bracket . You can get them through a lot of parts distributors .
2: I shrink wrap just Incase and also I like the clean look .
3: the scoleri target decals are factory . They were in my goodie bag .
4: according to previous write ups and other people testing these drops , they seem to take a pretty good beating . I ordered 1 extra as a replacement just in case , but so far they seem to take the hit. I also think they flex a little better because I’m not seeing the brick shots like I was .

Did you wire the bulb to GI?

#8193 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippinJB:

Right. Installed a new Node Board. If you have to do this, watch out!
1. The standoffs on the new board were shorter than the original ones. As you can see in the photos, the new standoffs would have caused the screws to gouge through the other side of the playfield. I would have been a sad panda.
2. The new Node Boards are a slightly different size to the original ones (see photo), so you'll end up making new holes. Very, very carefully.
I'm just glad I checked. The new board did not come with smaller screws.
I hope this helps someone in the future avoid something awful. On the plus side, I switched it on, it updated the node board, and it seems to be running ok. I'm letting the whole game fully discharge all caps before carefully screwing the other screws in.
Phew![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Interesting.. I do not believe my boards have those longer standoffs. I replaced one of the node boards without issue.

1 week later
#8214 3 years ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Not played GB in a while. Switched on yesterday for a few games and it’s throwing weird faults. Checked the node boards via the menu and all showing good!
Faults are
Number of balls going into the trough, games ending early while balls still in play. Trough optics look ok. Any suggestions what I should try next?

Too many balls in there?

#8230 3 years ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

So... i’m having an issue with my left scolari bros target staying up. I switched the spring like recommended. Still won’t stay up. I removed the “ledge” that holds it and its like paper. I check my other side and that one is a plastic ledge. Anyone know where i can find the plastic one? I checked marco and the one listed looks like the paper thin one on the left.
Thanks

I had an issue with mine not staying up and I found it was due to the spring that pushes the target against the ledge.. it had compressed just enough to not hold it on the ledge. I took it off, stretched it and put it back in. Havent had an issue since.

#8244 3 years ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Anyone have a set of Scoleri Bros Cliffy’s I can buy? Not trying to buy the whole $130 protector set. Thanks in advance!

Email Cliff. I wouldnt be surprised if he sells just those pieces to you.

#8280 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

My game will not save the date/time settings when I turn it off. It always resets to Feb 15, 2015. This makes it impossible for midnight madness to happen at midnight. Does anyone else have this problem?

Whats midnight madness mode? Something that comes on at midnight?

#8282 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Yep, it's really cool too!

Very interesting. I dont think I even ever set my clock. Ive never heard the hourly chime that people mention here.

For that Midnight Madness mode, do you have to do anything to play it? Or just have the game on at midnight?

1 week later
#8297 3 years ago
Quoted from Patrunkenphat7:

Is there any mod or art package of this game that doesn’t have the seductive Sigourney Weaver art at the bottom left of the machine?

Is your boner getting in the way of your nudging?? lol

#8298 3 years ago
Quoted from Sinistarrett:

Right, I’ll never understand the lust for that topper. When it first came out I thought it was laughable, so cheap looking like something off a kids toy. But to each their own.

Since the updated code, people have said that the topper incorporation with the game is fantastic... I think thats what sprung the additional demand.

#8299 3 years ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

Just have the game on and be playing at midnight. Or do what I did and set the clock ahead so it comes on sooner when you're up if you're like me and will never make it to midnight.

So, over the weekend I set the clock and literally waited to play from 11:30 onward. At 11:00, just being on did the hourly chime, it got me excited hahah. Then, as I was playing the game at 12:00, midnight madness started. Really cool! I could see this being used as a quick little cheat for extra points haha.

But thanks, I wasnt sure to believe you or not but you were in fact correct!

#8303 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Offset your time.
Unless you like playing at mid night!

No way, thats cheating! haha. I was excited to do it the "real" way!

#8304 3 years ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

Just got one!
Two issues though, curious to the collective thoughts.
1. From the shooter lane, starting any ball, from what I recall the electric gate in the back is supposed to stop the ball so that the ball goes through the PKE lanes and not fully through the orbit. Is that right or wrong? My gate works backwards as far I can tell and opens every time when the ball rolls over the target behind stay puft, always sending it around the orbit.
2. Occasionally on cold start, I get a message about node board 8 over current. When I go into the test for it, it runs successfully and the alert goes away. Rarely, though usually when a MB is going good, I lose flipper control for ....2ish seconds and then returns no problem. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for any insight!

I know those node boards have some issues. Not sure if they are related.

Have you done the servicing to the boards from Stern? Check these service bulletins.. https://sternpinball.com/support/service-bulletins/

1 week later
#8340 3 years ago

I am having an issue with my left sling where the switch sensor keeps coming out from behind the sling rubber. Is there a way to have this extended?

I have done it where I move the rubber lower, but this causes the balls to lift off the playfield very often.

Any suggestions?

#8345 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Bend the top of the sling switch so that it bends over the top of the rubber.

It doesnt go high enough to be able to do that.

#8347 3 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Have you tried switching the rubbers around on the slings ? It’s a common “mod”. There are 2 sets of rubbers on the slings. Little circle ones and the regular ones. Put the little ones on the bottom and the big one on top, or vice versa. And you can tweak the switch ever so slightly to make them less sensitive. My left one, about once a year starts activating without touching it. Had to bend the switch just slightly, and it’s back to perfect. Even gb haters play my premium and are like wtf.. totally different game. Anyway. Try those two things. Hopefully works out for ya .

You definitely get more action out of them, but my issue with that was the ball lifting off the playfield after each slingshot. Was driving me crazy as I could hear it happening.

#8348 3 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Have you tried switching the rubbers around on the slings ? It’s a common “mod”. There are 2 sets of rubbers on the slings. Little circle ones and the regular ones. Put the little ones on the bottom and the big one on top, or vice versa. And you can tweak the switch ever so slightly to make them less sensitive. My left one, about once a year starts activating without touching it. Had to bend the switch just slightly, and it’s back to perfect. Even gb haters play my premium and are like wtf.. totally different game. Anyway. Try those two things. Hopefully works out for ya .

Actually, now that I read this, mine came stock with the big rubber on top. Was yours different?

3 weeks later
#8398 3 years ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

Hi guys,
I have encountered my first major glitch with my Ghostbusters Premium. The left library scoop does not register the shot all the time, but instead simply kicks the ball out and the flasher goes off. If Tobin is lit or Extra Ball is lit, I assume you should be collecting those rewards each and every time the shot is made into this scoop. Or is this normal. Love to hear your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Ripshill

Check the switch. Might have to bend it upward a little. Ive had this issue also.

#8400 3 years ago
Quoted from shaub:

I think the issue is that the switch closes very briefly before opening again so the game takes a guess that the ball went in but isn't certain so it fires the coil just in case.

Right. So bending the switch upward would give it better contact.

3 weeks later
#8448 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I joined the club this weekend too! Now I need to figure out what to buy right away. The Shapeways targets are added to the list. Maybe the drop target spring fix, cliffies, and to make sure the service bulletins are taken care of.
The out lane plastic guard and air ball guards are already on it.
[quoted image]

Thats a cool topper. Havent seen that one yet.

#8450 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I was told that only a few were made by a well known topper company, but they couldn't make/sell them because of licensing issues. Willing to trade for a Stern GB topper.

Damn, was hoping you would say trade from the Laseriffic one.

#8453 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

For those that recently got a GB, check to make sure that these service bulletins were taken care of for Node boards 8 & 9. Marco has these kits. I did mine tonight. There's a power extension with a capacitor that needs to be installed and a spacer put in place with a zip tie for the D9 diode stability. I know that early on there were node board issues, but I don't know if these really resolved the issues. I had a spare kit and installed them anyway.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Stern will give you those for free.. Not sure if Marco had you pay for them.

#8455 3 years ago
Quoted from evileye:

Yeah I got those for free too. I didn’t use the zip tie method though, at the recommendation of teddyb73 I hot glued that diode instead.

Id bet there are a bunch of ways to keep that diode in place. It just needs to be supported.

Funny enough, a year ago, my Node Board died. Could had sworn that I installed the service bulletin stuff as I remembered exactly what they looked like.

I ended up finding them in their original bag inside the cabinet never installed! lol Whoops!

#8484 3 years ago

I have the LCD which I like, as others have said, you get different options for how the display looks. But something to note for GB, I cannot run it on Hi Res as it has so much blur.. XL Dots or Dots seems to be the best fit for GB.

#8487 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

Shared this in the GB topper thread but thought it may interest some people here as well...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hey-stern-make-some-new-ghostbusters-ecto-1-topper/page/2#post-5768328

What am I looking at here?

#8498 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

The alignment holes for the flippers seem really droopy. Previous owner matched them, maybe a touch lower but it doesn't seem right. Are you matching the lane guide or the holes?
[quoted image]

Mine sit exactly like this and I have no issues at all.

#8501 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

It’s worth experimenting with the flipper position. I moved mine higher to match the inlane position and think it plays better. I remember way-back-when some folks said Stern admitted they messed up with the flipper guide hole placement on GB, but I’m not sure if that’s true.

Ive never head this and if anything, have heard people confirm these are the correct holes for placement.

#8503 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Check out post #3147 in the Ghostbuster Issue Thread and the discussion thereafter. There was some debate a few years ago about the proper flipper alignment.

I read it but thats far from any confirmation.. Just one guy saying he talked to Stern and they are changing them. Now, if people with later builds can confirm the flippers are matching the inlanes, that would be the confirmation.

If anything, Id trust this more..

"Trudeau said in an interview I believe it was with Spida1 aka Bucci, that that's the way he designed the flippers. I heard the shots are harder to make with adjusting to a normal alignment?"

#8505 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Right. I said it was only a claim that was made, I didn’t know if it was true, and there was a debate about it a few years ago. I’d also be interested in the answer. My point was mainly that it is worth some experimentation with the flipper alignment since it is pretty easy to do and could result in preferred game play. If you’re happy with it as is, forget it and just enjoy it.

I hear ya. I just feel like i hear more people saying shots are harder after adjusting from stock. I dont see the point in doing that simply due to it looking different from other pins, if it makes shots harder.

#8507 3 years ago
Quoted from JonCrox:

Lifting the tips of the flippers just a tad closes the mahoosive gap just a tad which isn't a bad thing. I did this when I became 2nd owner and knocked the GC off the board in 1 day. I wasn't used to a previous alignment so didn't have to relearn any shots. The seller was a good player and I'm sh1te and still haven't got too far into the game so I haven't made it easy at all, just a fraction less hard...

So you made it easier to score higher lol.

The large gap is the intended design.. But I know a lot of people change it thinking maybe its a flaw?

#8509 3 years ago
Quoted from JonCrox:

From what I recall Trudeau added his classic "gap" then when the pfs went to final design it was added again in error.

The interview that I watched said he did the gap on purpose.. to avoid so many outlane drains...

Yes, that sounds dumb to me. Trading one annoyance for another.

#8514 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Before the Trudeau problems I had a pm chat via Facebook with him which started with a Creature mod I did and then I asked a few things about the Ghostbusters.
He said he is non traditional designer and most designers have 7" centre spacing at the flipper posts, where he always went for 71/8" spacing at the flipper posts - so most his games has a wider gap. On a few threads and Kaneda's show it was stated the spacing was a mistake - this is not true. It is true that the outlane lane divider games were drill and pushed down too far but not the flipper spacing.
What made the flipper spacing appear larger is the flipper dipping set at factory on the first 6-9 months of games but the spacing of the flippers at the posts are always 7 1/8" not 7" like the other designers. The flipper dipping on the very original ones were very low to allow for better shooting but after about 9months the flippers were lifted at the factory to just below the inlane alignment - not true lane alignment and still considered a little dipping.
hope that helps

Interesting.

Anyone have a newer build that you can share pictures? Would like to see how they changed the flipper position.

#8516 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

The build date on mine is 7/8/16. Not sure how long they ran for. Pic one page back.

Yea im not sure. That looks how mine are.

I guess i wont worry about it since im not having any issues. Im more curious than anything.

#8534 3 years ago
Quoted from Karl_Hungus:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. This is how mine look. I believe I bought mine in 2016.. So maybe mine was the corrected version and that they were saggier prior? not sure.

#8535 3 years ago

I found that my machine is not holding the time. I couldnt find where a battery is to be replaced but scores are all saving.

Any thoughts?

#8537 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

You do have a button battery and all it dies is save the time. Audits and scores are not effected. I had the same problem and replaced the battery

Thanks.

Ill take a look in the manual for the battery location.

#8538 3 years ago

Ok, I dont see the battery location listed in the manual.

Can anyone tell me where it is?

#8540 3 years ago
Quoted from Phatchit:

Here you go
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks! I have no clue how I missed that haha.

1 week later
#8549 3 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

So I have a Ghostbusters Pro and I love the game, but as we all know the zombieyeti art is pretty terrible. I just can't stand looking at my game any longer, so I am taking matters into my own hands and setting out to have a total redraw of the game art done. As I consider myself a Ghostbusters super fan, I simply cannot accept anything less than the best when it comes to anything Ghostbusters. I have done an extensive search of some of the best artists in the world and I think I have finally found the artist who can do this game justice. I'm not ready to publicly release the artists name yet, because negotiations are still in progress and I don't want someone else trying to steal all my hardwork, but here is a sample of what you can expect. As you can see, I was really looking for someone who could produce almost photo realism re-creations of the characters and I think this hits the nail right on the head. It's almost as if the artist reached back 30 years into the past and brought those characters back to life! Just shoot me a PM if you want to get in on this and finally get your game up to visual standards. It will be pricey as this kind of talent doesn't come cheap, but it will be worth it to complete that world under glass experience.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Eventhough I hope it really isn't needed...just in case...

huh? Is this a joke? The Zombie Yeti art is awesome on this machine.

#8560 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Yes... yes it is. Read the full post for clarity.

Haha i deleted that post after i saw the bottom part. At first I was shocked haha

#8561 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

If you guys are not crossing the streams your doing it wrong. These are the cherry on top and a must have mod to finish it off, looks way better in person BTY. Streams are blue and pink! Best $300 I've spent
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look nice. Do you hav Blacklight bulbs or something making em pop?

Who is selling them? Are they interactive? plug n play?

1 month later
#8722 3 years ago
Quoted from rwalters21:

which ColorDMD is the better option for GB premium, LCD or Led? any opinions from other owners is much appreciated. thanks, Ryan

I have the lcd but I cannot use hi res setting on GB. It has far too much motion blur. Aside from that its great. its plenty bright and I like the options to change the display, such as dots, dots xl, hi res....

1 week later
#8756 3 years ago

Does anyone have a solution for my slingshot rubber going behind the leaf switch? I have moved the rubber to the lower but it makes the ball jump, so i dont like that position.

Some have said to bend it over the rubber but the metal leaf isnt long enough to do that.

#8762 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

How about a photo so we can see what you're talking about. I'm having a hard time visualizing. The slingshot posts are in the same place on every machine which should put the rubber exactly where it needs to be. Are they aftermarket rings? Have you changed anything else from stock?

Thanks guys, sorry for the delay. Attached are pictures of what I mean. This now happens pretty much immediately after I fix it. So maybe smaller rubber is the fix..

20201012_073622 (resized).jpg20201012_073622 (resized).jpg20201012_073627 (resized).jpg20201012_073627 (resized).jpg
#8767 3 years ago

I bought a set of 1 3/4" as well as new 2" rubber to see if it fixes it...

#8769 3 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

Most of us swap the rubber, put the sling rubber in on bottom, put the smaller "O-rings" on top, stops the problem you're having. Did this since I bought it never had a problem. Some notice an improved response, I did not, you may adjust the switch as you see fit.
[quoted image]

Ive done that but what happens is every time the ball hits the sling, it gets lifted off of the playfield and hits back down. I can literally hear the ball doing this over and over and just cant imagine its good for anything with it doing that. Sounds like someone dropping the ball on the playfield lightly over and over....

Is there a setting to lower the power of the magnets?

#8771 3 years ago
Quoted from slippifishi:

I also suffer this problem of the switch working its way onto the wrong side of the rubber, especially on my left sling. When I looked under my playfield, it looked to me like my switch plate was not actually perpendicular to the playfield - it had perhaps taken a knock at some point in the past and got ever-so-slightly bent - and was biased towards the wrong side of the rubber, maybe by just 1 degree or even less. I intent to replace it eventually, I hope, but I managed to bend the switch contacts back far enough to compensate so that it doesn't happen very often now, but it might be something worth checking for on your machine.

Thanks for the insight. I will take a look at that..

#8773 3 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

Does anyone have the half-moon PKE lane reflector plastic they would sell? It's listed as 510-7535-44 in the manual. It is the part that is removed when installing one of the numerous PKE lane mods. Mine is cracked, and I don't see it available from any of the online vendors. Thanks!

Did you want one like this mirror mod?

https://laseriffic.com/products/ghostbusters-mirror-replacement-mod

#8775 3 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

I'd rather have the original one for now.

Id imagine someone out there has one from replacing it.

Did you call Stern to ask about the part?

#8777 3 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

I did. They said I would have to order a whole plastic set (803-5000-H7) from a distributor. I would then have to rivet the brackets back on to the new plastic.
Needless to say, I'd rather get a used one from someone here that took it off to replace with a mod.

Yes, totally agree.. Annoying.

#8779 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

I have the mirror mod and I think it’s a great add on. And it beats the cost of a full plastic set.

Sell him your OEM piece?

#8781 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Sell him yours

haha, i didnt replace mine!

#8784 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

I didn’t replace mine either I added!(think out side the PKE)

Oh didnt see that hahah.

#8787 3 years ago

Was there ever a definitive fix for the airballs coming from the multiplier targets for this machine? I feel like ive tried everything but still get them...

#8789 3 years ago

I have them and im not noticing much a difference. I can still see the balls plowing into my airball protector extremely often. Would love to be able to take that protector off.

#8791 3 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I have the brackets too and didn’t make much difference.

Glad its not just me haha.

#8795 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Wow - I was able to take my protector off.

Lucky you haha.

#8796 3 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I did the same after reading about the improved response and couldn't be happier.[quoted image]

I found the reason for that is because the switches there dont seem to be set right. After messing around with mine and tweaking them, much better response. Moving the rubber to the lower allows the sling to hit the switch lower down where there is less travel to register. When it is in the upper position, the switch is bent over more and has a longer travel to have the switch register... That seems to me, to be the reason you get more response when lowering the sling position.

I didnt like the lower position though as my balls would lift off the playfield every time they hit the rubber. Sounded like the ball gently dropping on the playfield over and over. Didnt like that.

#8811 3 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I broke up the set if anyone needs any specific plastic please send me a PM. Here's the link to the ad
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/98008

mdeslaur was looking for a PKE plastic a few weeks back...

#8816 3 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

A couple of people have PMed me, so I think I found what I was looking for, thanks!

Thats good. Just looking out. I know its frustrating when something breaks and its hard to find.

1 week later
#8844 3 years ago
Quoted from rwmech5:

Anyone know where to get a library for a premium?

I dont know if you can but this is a mod:

https://mezelmods.com/products/ghostbusters-pinball-library-pro

1 month later
#8924 3 years ago
Quoted from HowieNerdcraft:

I have the same problem with the right hand scoleri on my Pre machine. He pops up then does not stay up, he just pops down again.
Anyone able to fix this?

Another thing to check, which fixed my issue that you are having... There are springs that push the target onto that ledge that camcamaro1991 gave links for. In my case, the springs were compressed too much and it wasnt pushing the target onto the shelf hard enough, so they wouldnt stay up. All I had to do was stretch them to make them stronger..

Worth a shot if new rest ledges dont work.

1 month later
#9049 3 years ago

Has anyone installed a headphone jack into the front of this game? I saw this but wasnt sure if it is compatible with GB?https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-2-headphone-jack-accessory-kit.html

Any insight for this product or alternatives would be very appreciated.

#9053 3 years ago
Quoted from R_Coles:

That should work on a Spike 1 machine. I just put one on my TMNT(spike 2) and I love it, a little pricey and there are other alternative, but it seems high quality to me. You can set it up to mute the game when you plug headphones in or not, also the knob will control the volume of the machine regardless of whether headphones are plugged in. Very easy install/setup.

oh very intersting. After looking at the Stern one, I thought it was just basic to control the headphones only. Good to know that the knob does the volume of machine also when headphones are not plugged in.

How would you go about setting it to mute the game when headphones are plugged in? Is there a menu option?

#9054 3 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

I used the Stern standard one. Works fine. Inputting your headphone jack in it does not mute out the speakers though...perhaps there is a setting for this. My pinsound + on my IJ automatically does this.
[quoted image]

Thats a nice clean look. Since you have this and Pinsound, do you have a preference? My only complaint with Pinsound from what ive seen, is I hate that it installs outside the machine.

1 month later
#9183 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

yeah there are 2 versions of the car, replica and a cartoon style - I went with a cartoon style but both have the same wheel placement and car length. I installed on on the shooter lane using a custom bracket that suits the playfield level and protector - it has holes in it for securing and running a led to make the cabin glow
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I like this mod. Question, do you feel that the mount that you used from Shapeways will stay put and not sag or break with time? Is it metal?

#9185 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

no it is solid nylon and has not sagged at all and it won't
in has slots to fit into the bubble and side guard
the purple looks good and goes with the playfield art or the grey suits the road art - I liked the purple and has been in my game for about 2 years and not a issue.

Good to know, thanks.

1 month later
#9231 2 years ago

Question for you guys.. Over the weekend I was doing a wax on my GB Premium and I noticed that the playfield was sitting really tight against the right side cabinet. I am not able to move it over at all once it is in place. I cant find anything restricting it or anything.

Any thoughts? Its not a huge deal, just strange. i dont remember it being like that previously.

#9236 2 years ago
Quoted from R_Coles:

Is there any play side to side when the playfield is lifted? I definitely have some side to side play when it’s lifted up. Maybe take a pic of the rail guides and rails when the playfield is lifted, I suppose they could be bent?

yes, there is room to move it when it is lifted. It is only when it is put in place for playing that it gets squeezed against the ride cabinet side.. I even tried pulling it from the side but it will not budge at all. And its mainly on the back end thats up against the cabinet, not the front.

There is nothing out of place with the rail guides that I can see. Not even sure how they would get bent..

Essentially there isnt a "problem" as I can put the side art protectors on and nothing gets scratched. Its just strange.

#9244 2 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Ohh that’s a nice cup he has as well! Something about the simplicity of the official one really makes me want that one. You’ll never get anything unless you ask, so figure I’d just throw it out there. Thanks all!

Ive bought a couple of his drink holders for my other games. Always top notch quality.

#9260 2 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

I bought a Premium NIB, and I never think the Premiums offer enough to justify the additional cost. The magnaslings alone made me pull the trigger on a Premium. They were made for this game (Ghosts doing funky stuff with the balls). The other stuff is negotiable for sure, but those magnaslings are a game changer for me. Nothing like cradling a ball or two during a multiball, only to have the magnaslings pull them off the flipper and send them somewhere else.

I agree and said the same exact thing. The magnaslings are awesome..

#9263 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

This. When I first saw the magna slings in action I was both infuriated and blown away in amazement at the same time. I actually enjoy when I'm having a good round and the slings take my ball and toss it STDM. The theme integration makes me feel like I deserved to have the ball drained and gives me a chuckle.

Luckily mine hardly ever tosses it SDTM...

#9270 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

It happens the farther into the game you get from what I have seen, and the more ghosts you capture maybe? I've seen it where the ball comes down from the ramp and hits the sling...the sling will freeze it and almost wind up like it's pitching it and toss it between the flippers. You can fit a mac truck between the flippers so perhaps it isn't aiming to drain me, but it sometimes does.

This isnt my first rodeo on the game lol. It just doesnt happen to my game...

#9272 2 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Yee Haaawww! Roundup them ghost partner!!

hahahah!

#9278 2 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Not something to be proud of in my opinion. I have an LE with his signature and wish i could remove it.

Really? I understand the background but I still think its cool to have.

I would imagein any kind of polish would remove it.. Novus 2...

#9280 2 years ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

To be honest, I havent tried. I will now.I just didnt want to mess up the clear coat in any way, so i just left it alone

I wouldnt be surprised if that signature is under the clear... Curious..

1 week later
#9305 2 years ago
Quoted from Ryancaseystudio:

So which one of you is going to sell me your Premium? I would really like to join the group!!! Please and thank you.

Sure, $11k. lol

3 weeks later
#9360 2 years ago
Quoted from djsoup:

Arrived and added! It’s a little bigger than I thought it would be but still managed to make him work off that weird phantom post area.
[quoted image]

Is that from the movies?

1 month later
#9375 2 years ago
Quoted from Norcalpin:

Hey guys,
Just joined the club yesterday with this Pro. Its dusty, but will clean up real nice. These games are a beauty. On the pro model does the puft man do anything? I see wires running up to him but didn't see him move or anything. Just lights? Are there any mods to make him animated? That's a cool toy that could have done "more".
Cheers
[quoted image]

If you put a Shaker Motor in, that stock Stay Puft will shake around on its own...

#9379 2 years ago

Has anyone installed the Stern headphone jack onto this machine? Was testing it out last night and it works fine, but I noticed that from 0 volume to full volume, the knob only turns like a 16th of the dial for that full range. Would like it to be more representative of the knob range.. If that makes sense.

Wasnt sure if there was something I can do to correct that.

Thanks.

3 weeks later
#9458 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I had the brackets from shapeways on mine. Stopped over 90% of air balls and kept the factory look of the game.

I have them also and they hardly do anything for me...

#9460 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

With the wedges I installed yesterday and changing the flipper power from hard to Norm air balls are way less now but not completely gone

I had the wedges prior to the brackets.. Maybe I should try using them both at the same time hahaha. Nothing seems to work besides the plastic guards, but I would love to remove that.. Just never going to happen.

3 weeks later
#9566 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I looked about a year ago and inquired with several distributors with no luck. I was PM'd by a few people that they aren't that great. Some thin cheap cardboard for the cutouts. Instead I got some custom powder coat design and I am much happier. Just a thought for you.[quoted image]

Send some pics with these installed. They look super cool!

#9567 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Joined the club yesterday with a premium! Can't play it yet though, it had carrot flippers in it and when I removed them, one of the set screws stripped. Going to have to wait until Pinballlife ships it to me. Until then I can play with sound mods if anyone can supply. Mudflaps' link is broken and I can't find one for Delt's.
Mine came with the subway mod, but it blocks view to the rollover targets almost completely. Trying to decide if I'm going to yank it out of there.
It also came with the ColorDMD LED screen. There's not anyone here who would like to trade for the LCD one is there?

Ill be honest, I have a couple of these installed, including on my GB. If you are wanting the LCD version to have the Hi Res setting and to not have the "dots", I dont think I would bother. On mine, there is so much motion blur when using the animated settings that I couldnt stand it anymore and put it back to dots. This is in reference to the GB game specifically having blur..

Just my 2 cents...

#9569 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I have the LCD one in my tron and was thinking about switching it over to the GB machine. The GB has way better animations that i think deserve the colour and tron can go back to orange.

Give it a try and let me know what you think. I cant stand all the motion blur on it. But otherwise, id choose the LCD every time for other machines. I have one on my TWD machine and it looks fantastic.

#9570 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

and just to clarify - I am not trying to sell / flog these off - merely directed you to the part as I describe what causes the airballs and then you can make an educated decision of what you want to do re airballs

I really wish these worked for me, but they didnt help one bit..

#9572 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

But the LCD in dot mode it still fine correct?

Yes, looks great. I think im running Dots XL if im not mistaken..

Now i want to mess around with the settings again haha.

#9576 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Very strange, mine worked GREAT for me. Remember that the targets are one of the many causes of airballs on this game. My swinks target brackets completely eliminated the big airballs off of the targets, but I still would get airballs off of the ramp or from certain angles (independent of the brackets). For a permanent solution, I use both the swinks brackets AND an airball protector to get the most coverage.

Yes, I do this also. I suppose the brackets helped a little but I can clearly see that if I didnt have the plastic protector still in place, there would be a lot of airballs still.

#9577 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I have the LCD one in my tron and was thinking about switching it over to the GB machine. The GB has way better animations that i think deserve the colour and tron can go back to orange.

I played with a couple of settings again and I definitely think Hi Res looks bad. Its very blurry on the images, often making you wonder what they are exactly. A good example is when the ball lock image comes. The double trap image looks horrible. Lots of others like this.

But what I was surprised to see, is that I liked using "Scan" setting. It almost feels like a mix of dots and Hi res. Seems to eliminate that blurriness.

I think I still like Dots XL best..

2 weeks later
#9634 2 years ago
Quoted from sepins:

Wow!!! Thought ad for $15K loaded for GBLE was nuts.
Sold in a couple of days!

Prices for Pinball have gotten out of hand lately!

#9635 2 years ago
Quoted from sepins:

Just broke down and bought a Color DMD LCD for My GBLE.
Vertical was way off so that's done.
It works great but sometimes a little blur to it.
Is there a little bit of blur to it sometimes or do I need to tweak it?
If anyone has adjusted their settings can they please post them.
Thanks!!!

There is blur. Ive been saying that for a while... Try "Scan". Seems like the best of both worlds between Hi Res and Dots..

1 week later
#9657 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I plan on trying to figure out how this was done in the next month or so. Requires me to learn how to use Nano Arduino and how to connect it to a pinball machine. In the mean time, if someone figures how to mod this before me (as I'll be starting from scratch) I'd be interested in a price.

There is a mod exactly like that for WOZ that mezel mods makes. Its simple really. You need clear drop targets and a led or bulb to shine on it. Simple as that..

But I will say, these would be a good mod to purchase for GB...

https://mezelmods.com/collections/wizard-of-oz-pinball-mods/products/wizard-of-oz-pinball-illuminated-winkie-target?variant=705017705

#9669 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

It doesn't change color and pulse when activated though.

Oh I see, yea that is pretty cool.

#9670 2 years ago
Quoted from evileye:

Welcome back! I’ve had those glo balls in the captive ball area since day 1 (2017), no issues here. I’ve seen others say not to use them on the PF for normal game use, they won’t hold up to the abuse and also mark up your game.

Werent people saying back in the day that they dont weigh the same as regular pinballs or the size is different?

I thought it was something like that.

#9671 2 years ago

Question for you guys with Color DMD.. I noticed last night that the "Mayors door" image when he goes on to say "this man has no dick!", the color of the door is grey and now brown... Seems strange.

1 week later
-2
#9725 2 years ago

Who is going to jump on this!??

ebay.com link: itm

#9738 2 years ago
Quoted from R_Coles:

Lol, insane…but I’ve never understood the whole topper thing, personally.

Funny, I hated them when I first got into pinball. Now I need them lol. Id love to have the GB topper but I would never pay the prices ive seen for them lately.. Even $500 from Stern was a ton...

#9739 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Who is going to jump on this!??
ebay.com link: itm

Why exactly what I downvoted for this?

1 week later
#9819 2 years ago
Quoted from oradke:

I disagree. Bought that one. Very poor quality, decals were falling off, plastics were skewed and loose. Way overpriced. Returned it.

Funny, I have this one as well and have never been blown away by it. The character cutouts are constantly falling over, the decals are peeling... Its ok but it is overpriced for what it is.

A buddy of mine comes over who has machines and is blown away by the topper saying how cool it is and this and that.. I looked at him and said "that one? Really??".

Different strokes for different folks I guess haha.

1 week later
#9852 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Put in a few Mods:
LED Leg Light Ups from Mustang Paul
Slime sign and Slime along subway
Ecto-1 Car.
Pinmonk's light progression panels-a little tricky to install, need a heat gun to place a dab of glue to help them stay in position when placing them back into game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Anti-Glare glass should be your next purchase!

4 weeks later
#9941 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Just installed Swinks GB Proton Gun mod.
It's awesome!

What exactly do they do?

#9944 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

They light up and kick the ball out of the outlanes.

Ahhhh I see. I thought they were raised higher than ball level.

And what activates them? Is it incorporated into the game code?

#9946 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

No, a foot pedal.

Really? Soooo, then its a cheat? lol.

#9948 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Only if you want it to be. It has an on/off button on the coin door.

Gotcha, thanks again for the info!

#9959 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Having played a few games with it installed, I find myself wanting the ball to go to the outlanes so I can use the proton guns.
But sometimes in the heat of the game, I forget I have it and the ball just drains like normal. So it does take some time to get use to having the function. But the great thing about it is...you don't have to use it. It's not an "always on cheat". You can decide if you want to use it or not during gameplay which to my understanding is one of a kind. As most "cheat" mods such as lane extenders, center posts, etc (once installed) are always there during gameplay.
And I think that originally there was suppose to be something of this nature in the game but got pulled before production. So in my mind, this completes the game.

Nope, its a cheat pure and simple! lol. I would imagine that if it were in the game from the manufacturer, it would have been incorporated into the game somehow. Such as to only be activated like a ball save for "x" amount of time, and then it would also have to be earned.

Im not sure how you can say its not a "cheat" when you just decide when the ball drains and when it wont... Seems like thats essentially the opposite of how pinball works.

#9965 2 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

I agree it's a cheat. 100%.
I am just saying it's in a different category of cheats...since once installed you have to depress a foot pedal to activate it during the game . If you don't depress the foot petal, then it's as if the guns don't exist and the ball drains normally down the side.
So I technically can play a game where the gun mod is not used at all even though it's installed. Thus having a non cheating game. Versus other cheat mods such as lane extenders, changing to larger flipper bats, adding center posts where I cannot control whether or not to cheat during the game. Perhaps a small difference, but to me a difference nonetheless.
I am also hoping someone will eventually integrate it into the code so it has to be earned. Just taking baby steps.
I understand it's not for everyone, but I like it on mine.

Oh I gotcha. Hey, im not saying its not cool haha. I just thought for whatever reason that since the original design of the game had these in mind, that they were linked to the current code already.

#9966 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I’ve always felt GB was somewhat underrated. I bought my premium in summer 2017 and quickly discovered it needed a few adjustments and airball protectors. CPR9999 has offered great options for the left ramp and the end of the shooter lane, and the protectors which go over the in/out lanes are a must to prevent rail-hops. The game code wasn’t finished either, which turned some people off. The right ramp is a hard shot too, but a slightly shorter hex post under the ramp does make that shot a bit more makable. When the code was finished a couple years ago, it really elevated this game. I was already a fan, but the finished code and option to immediately play the wizard mode really put this one in keeper territory. It looks awesome, has some of the best mods in recent years, and has several ways to play it and ladders to progress. This is one of Sterns best pins, but that’s just my opinion!

I agree. Funny, I bought mine in like 2016 or 2017 also, way before the "new code" was up and running. I always liked it even before the new code.

But even stranger, since the new code, which made it easier to score, I cannot come even close to my original high score on the old code!

Frustrating hahaha

#9970 2 years ago
Quoted from davegauth:

I'm surprised so much talk had been centered around If it is cheating or not to add some mods to a game.
Seems the line is drawn - If the game came that way, and was intended to be that way then it's OG, otherwise it's a cheat.
In order to stay OG you'd have to stick to the original doctrine - Which is they are designed to take your quarters for a given amount of play time. The BOM is closely monitored, and everything can be adjusted to make that magic average game time last 2 minutes for you $1.
Not sure this ethos works well in a home eviroment. Sure the credit is free for the family to play - but sorry little Bobby or uncle Chuck, your two minutes are up go sit down now.
I say play it anyway you want that makes it enjoyable and it's not cheating at all. Bolt on the training wheels and go to town, I do... Enjoy the game, get better at it, and slowly ease up on the aids to increase the challenge as desired.
And stop putting the accountants in charge of the fun. You listening pinball MFGs?

Well, it depends on how you look at it. If you are ever interesting in comparing scores in any way, then altering it is cheating.

A lot of people would compare this sort of modding to bumper bowling. yea, its fun but you cant take it seriously...

#9972 2 years ago
Quoted from davegauth:

You are absolutely right - trying to compare scores wouldn't make any sense like this. All conditions must be the same. And I would take it a step further and say that it really needs to be done on the same machine to truly compare scores.
Fun for a league or tourney situation for sure. Or even a house party between pinheads.
BUT - when not comparing manhood. Pure fun for everyone is the name of the game. Break out the bumper bowling. Maybe measuring the level of pure mindless fun is a much better measurement than a score.
Besides - most people don't spend this kind of money to bring something into their home just to be constantly reminded how much they suck and don't measure up whenever they want to play with it.
That's what marriage is for....

Haha, to me, the only reason for pinball is for the endgame of scoring. . Doesnt have to be competitive but to want to know how you compare to others generally. But at the end of it all, i am disappointed if I were to go through all the brackets or whatever and find my score is low still. But opposite if I flub around for a while and realize I ended up with a great score.. If you are really serious about it, then yes, same machine. Thats for the hardcore pinheads though...

But thats why pinball is great. Many different reasons to play and enjoy.

#9983 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Sure, but who cares? If it’s your game and it makes it more fun for you, mission accomplished.

Did I say that I cared what others do? Nope! Actually, I said the opposite.

But to me, its something I would never add on. I just dont see the point of it.

#9984 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yes the protons were originally intended to be in the game but they were never intended to be used in the game like this. It’s incredibly well engineered though! Impressive.
Btw - I really hate to say this Bc the dumb topper is so overpriced from Stern on this game but I really like it. Complete the look and half of the reason I have this game is for my love of ghostbusters. I really should just sell the damn thing and cash in but I can’t. It really brings the whole game together and truly looks like it belongs.
When I tell non pinball people how much the thing sells for, their head almost explodes. Then they try to take it off my machine and leave with it haha
This hobby is so crazy

The topper is great. I cant believe they are selling for thousands!

#10010 2 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Update: sold
Found a set of the drain Busters in my shop. They are brushed stainless and were manufactured by Cliff Rinear of Cliffy’s. $40 shipped CONUS
[quoted image][quoted image]

These are amazing. One of the best mods I bought for this machine. Everyone should own a pair...

3 weeks later
#10147 2 years ago
Quoted from Nds777:

Next time you need a magnetic screwdriver just grab a magnet from the fridge and stick it on the drivers shaft. Works fine for a little screw like that.

These are cool too. You can find them cheaper. But they allow a screwdriver to go back and forth between magnetic and non-magnetic.

https://www.amazon.com/Delcast-Magnetizer-Demagnetizer-Screwdriver-Small/dp/B00PBCDRN4/ref=sr_1_3_sspa

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