(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!

By 30FathomDave

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,662 posts
  • 636 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by Looprunner
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (2 years ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (2 years ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5070 1 year ago

I have my first NIB narrowed down to a GB Premium or BM66. Such a tough call. I don't think think I can go wrong with either one.

2 months later
#5265 1 year ago

Joining the club tomorrow.

1 week later
#5294 1 year ago

Looks good but just more stuff reflecting on the glass. I hate glass reflections. I have modified a few of my older games to shut off the backbox when the flippers are active. I am hoping in the new code update that they will put the adjustment for backbox brightness during gameplay in the adjustments menu like BM66.

3 weeks later
#5370 1 year ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

ColorDMD looking good! Nice to see slimer in green!
Advance it to 1 minute, youtube did something weird at the start.

Just curious if you have UV on just the back or the sides too? Looks great.

#5373 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Great, now I hafta order uv bulbs!

It’s actually a strip that has a relay that turns them on when the upper bulbs go out. I saw it on my buddies machine and I made it for my game. Put it in the trough too.

1 week later
#5451 1 year ago

I have a question for you guys that have installed the ColorDMD LED in GB. The ColorDMD website says you need standoffs for newer LED panels. I have seen the pictures of the gap when using the standoffs. The install instructions for Spike systems does not make any mention of the standoffs. I have a ColorDMD that I bought at TPF this year and I am moving it to GB Premium. I ordered the standoffs and the custom foam bezel in preparation for the install. I can install my CDMD without the standoffs and it fits perfectly. Did they change the LED frame so you need those and since mine is older, I don't need them? Or are they used because of heat and I need to install them? The website makes no mention of why you need them so I am a little confused. I don't think that the heat would be any different from the original DMD so I am planning on installing it without the posts unless someone can shed some light on this.


#5453 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

LED doesn't need standoffs or a gasket. LCD does.

Gotcha. I guess I was looking at too many things and I saw the standoff kit and thought I needed it.


1 month later
#5640 10 months ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Can someone tell me what all you have to remove in order to replace the 2" hex spacer with the 1 5/8 spacer? I don't want to take anything off the playfield I don't have to. Always makes me nervous doing this lol

Just the metal wire ramp. Take the post out and replace. I just did it a couple days ago. I just payed a towel down so I could lay the ramp on it so I did t have to take the switch off.

#5644 10 months ago

Something simple and something that probably doesn’t bother anyone else but I hate the little L brackets that keep the ball from getting stuck. Looks like someone just ran to Lowe’s.
I designed and printed a new bracket to replace it. Only color that I had that goes with the game was green. I will probably pick up some purple as I think it will fit better but I’m happy with the prototype.
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4 weeks later
#5720 9 months ago
Quoted from imharrow:

I installed the standup targets brackets today. They seem well printed and fit well. Unfortunately, for me I am not sure how much of a reduction it gave in airballs. I still felt like I was 50% or higher airballs of the targrts. Probably reduced it some, but I am still seeing a lot of airballs. Oh well, I still appreciate you designing these.

Replace the foam on the target with stiffer foam.

#5723 9 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Thanks for giving it a try and I am surprised as though never promised to totally remove the airballs I am surprised you are still getting 50% airballs.
Is it a brand new game or had a few months of play? if the game is new things will tame down a little and you should see a difference so leave them in.

Here is what I did and I have almost zero air balls. I replaced the foam on the back of the Target with a stiffer foam. I think I got them at Pinball life. The original foam isn’t even thick enough to touch the targets. They can bend back very easy and you have already erased the tilt. The new foam works perfect. Just have to adjust the switch to your liking since the target will not move as much as the original. I then added a small thin washer to the lower screw between the target and the new mount to give it just a hint more tilt. I have almost zero air balls now. The only time the ball might lift is if I hit the target 50% or more off center but it’s still not that bad. Your mileage may vary.

5 months later
#6413 4 months ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

I want to get a printer but unsure of model/type.
I have heard of MakerBot, Multimaker etc.
But I came across a brand called Lulzbot which looked cool - good reviews - and can do multiple materials.
Do you know anything about them?

If you want a great printer for a reasonable cost then a CR10S is a great option. I have an original CR10 and it has been a great printer. I still haven't felt the need to spend the money for a higher end printer.

2 months later
#6749 80 days ago
Quoted from delt31:

So update on my end as I ordered these updated targets and installed today.
I was apprehensive as I thought it's a little pricey for two (around 50 shipped) but then I realized I spent 7k+ on this game and said don't be a dumbass sweating 50 bucks. Glad I did b/c they work VERY well. Plus I don't have that ugly plastic covering my ramp. Very happy. Easy to install too - just unscrew and replace with the existing targets which are underneath the table btw - check the pics on the website for ref.

I installed them too and they work great. I also replaced the foam behind the target because the original was pretty small and allowed the target to bend back with no resistance. That turns the switch into a ramp which launches the ball. The foam cut out the few random air balls I would have even with the brackets. The brackets are definitely worth the money in my opinion.

#6821 74 days ago

I decided to add the proton streams to my game. I combined it with a UV mod I did that illuminates whenever the GI turns off. Looks cool at the end of ball sequence and also flashes in conjunction with the GI during some modes for a crazy effect. I 3D printed the plug in the outlines that were supposed to used originally.

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#6824 73 days ago
Quoted from tpir:

[quoted image]

The game doesn’t look like this all the time. When the GI is off, this turns on.

1 month later
#7385 41 days ago
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:

Here are just some from others. I like this company BTW, and each new mod they get looks better and better, but the resin ones are still higher quality. The slimer bash assembly is only $25 and has way more material in it than these.
The flasher domes are $13-$15 and have more detail and are much higher quality. And the second picture is the only other bash assembly slime you can get, which probably costs more than mine.[quoted image][quoted image]

I really like all the mods you are making. Have you thought about designing the slime without all the round “balls” all over? Just a thought. I think it would match my slime on the speaker panel and coin door.
Looking forward to what you come up with next.

1 week later
#7489 32 days ago
Quoted from toddsolus:

I switched back from the longer flippers...It made the game actually harder because the shot geometry was off that much.....play the game enough and you can sense when the middle drops are going to sink....slight nudge is al it takes.

MY e I am missing something but how is the geometry different by adding 1/8 of an inch. Wouldn’t the top surface of the flipper be In the exact same place? Or do you mean the response is different because the coils is moving something with a slightly different weight?

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