(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!

By 30FathomDave

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,966 posts
  • 659 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 minutes ago by ShooterMcD
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (2 years ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (2 years ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2951 2 years ago

Hey guys, just joined the club a few days ago with a premium.

#2972 2 years ago

Spent a good chunk of time last night reading through all of the fixes and tweaks that people have implemented to make the game more "playable". I just picked up a relatively bone stock premium, that was having a ton of airballs, and lots of STDM drains from all over. Here is what I have done, and since doing these things have had several really fun and rewarding games. (Mass-Hysteria multiball, 2x storage facility multiball, and 5 modes completed in the first game. Two 400-450 million point games, and I don't really know the ruleset all that well yet.)

-Already had the airball protector for the left ramp
-Updated software to 1.13
-Set incline to 7.0 degrees (Although the manual says 6.5, it's just not steep enough for this games geometry.) I used pinguy on my iphone as the bubble level on my pin is not a good indicator of slope in this case.
-Left to right completely level (0.0) both on the front and back of the playfield
-Slightly bent the left eject towards the right flipper
-Increased left eject to full coil strength (64)
-Decreased right eject coil strength to 30.
-Installed pinball life (green slime if it matters) lane heighteners only from the Ghostbusters Upgrade Kit

#2975 2 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

knockerlover - You might have already done this, but I recommend moving the outlane pins to the tightest setting too. I also set my 'extra ball' to unlimited. Has only made a difference in 1 or 2 games, but the game is so hard its worth getting any little benefit you can!

I haven't tightened the inlanes yet, I'm relatively happy with how the game is playing at the moment. I'd rather not turn on extra balls as I sometimes host, and play in a league that doesn't allow extra balls!

2 weeks later
#3116 2 years ago

This is what I get for not reading this whole thread before really playing my GB premium. An airball flew into my ecto goggles and cracked the LCD screen. Thankfully the mirror survived unscathed. I purchased a replacement LCD node board from Marco but it arrived defective and they are out of stock. Good ol' steve at Marco took both boards back to try and repair them, but I'm still without one for now.

Apparently, the GI is in series with the node board via the two network cables on the back. So the game is dark without it plugged in. In case anyone has this problem, you can run the GI cable directly to the LED board underneath the playfield taking the node board out of the loop. It will still throw a node board error on startup, but you can play with lights on.

I have every ecto goggles metal and plastic shield ready to go for when I get one of those node boards back. Lessons learned.

#3133 2 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Did yours already have the left side protector installed from factory? Mine didn't come with one but they shipped it later. Wondering if I still need the full plastic protector.

It didn't have one but I'm not taking any chances and am going with both.

#3180 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Also... question - what voltage are the little flasher boards (520-6785-00): are these 12 VDC? 12 VAC?
Also, what is the little GI boards (520-5307-00): are these 5 VDC or 5 VAC?

somebody is modding!

#3187 2 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Has anyone else ever had your flipper buttons just fly off the machine during a game? This has now happened 3 or 4 times (always the same side) and I have no idea why. And do the stand up targets require multiple shots before falling down or should they always drop at the first contact?

If the nut isn't tight enough this will happen, it could also be bent/mishapen causing it to come loose. You could try a little removable locktite (blue) or a small wood screw with a washer to keep it from turning.

The drop targets should fall with one hit, but there is a common issue where direct hits don't cause them to fall. This is fixed either by replacing the tension spring with a stronger one, or tightening the existing one by moving it down a few coils until it falls as desired.

2 months later
#3585 2 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

After a bunch of 40-150m games all hell breaks loose and you end up with an awesome game. Got to love pinball!
The only issue I would like to address is from time to time, the ball gets stuck bouncing around the top left pop bumper and the Gozer the gozerian insert... it just bounces in a triangle pattern sometimes it takes shaking the machine to break it loose...

Been having this same problem, although it's more than time to time.. it's every game. Ball gets stuck just like this. I've tried different pitches and levels, short of changing the rubber on the left of the pops to something more stiff or adjusting the sensitivity of the pop bumper. Has anyone done anything that has fixed this?

#3613 2 years ago

I'm nearly certain someone has posted about this before, but I couldn't find anything in this big ass thread. I've owned both a premium and an LE GB (currently have the LE), and both of them have had problems with the transition in from wireform to plastic in the subway. I always have balls get stuck down there and rock back and forth until it does a ball search. Sometimes a smack to the side of the cabinet will send it over to the kickout. But this really puts a damper on scores especially during loopin supers.

#3660 2 years ago
Quoted from BillySastard:

Can someone please explain to me how the left captive ball works? What's the point and awards for getting all the balls up in the top of it? I can't seem to figure this out.

The left captive balls will light the storage facility locks and any other lit features in the inserts under the captive balls.

Hitting all three standups under the proton pack will light a new feature. (Like playfield multipliers)

#3664 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyArcade:

Hi. Purchased my first pin, a GB Pro. Loving it. I have a couple questions about odd behaviour. Sfw is v1.13.
I often select the Skill Shot to be the Award Scene. When I hit it, it asks ESP or Don't Cross The Streams, I select cross the streams, it then kicks the ball out to start play again (sometimes also starting Scoleri Brothers), then 1-2s later the playfield goes dark, flippers lose power, ball drains and the cross the stream game starts on the DMD. This happens about 50% of the time, the other 50% the ball stays in the right scoop and doesn't eject till after the cross the streams mini-game is over.
Is this normal?

What skill shot exactly are you talking about? Start scene should be the right loop where the "who brought the dog" mode is. But it sounds like you're hitting the scoop.

#3670 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyArcade:

This is when I release/shoot a new ball. Prior to launching it I can use the flippers to select 2 skill shots on the DMD. The award video mode lights the right scoop. I usually select "light multipliers" and "award video mode". (sorry, said scene, meant mode in first post)
Just got it to do it again (twice). Selected the 2 skill shots. Hit the right scoop after launching the ball. Asks me to select ESP or Streams, selected streams, DMD then says "Symmetrical Book Stacking", (Scolari Brothers sometimes go up at same time), releases the ball from the scoop. Playfield goes dark, flippers lose power then Don't Cross the Streams starts on DMD.

The video mode skill shot if made should just start with the choice of either mode and go right into it. The ball should stay in the scoop until the video mode is over.

If you hit the captive ball for symmetrical book stacking before the skill shot you may start scoleri brothers. I don't believe that is considered a "major" shot so the skill shot will still be lit.

#3674 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyArcade:

OK, I think we are onto something. Turns out the Captive Ball Switch is always ON. In its normal spring-forward position it is ON, if I push on it lightly half way travel (like 1/16") it goes OFF then back ON again at full travel back. I'm guessing this isn't supposed to be happening.
Bumps of the field are enough to make the captive ball switch go into the off position (half way back). This would explain why I am getting Symmetrical book stacking and Gozer all the time without hitting the captive balls.
In the attached photo that is the status of the captive ball switch without playing or touching anything. Then if I press on the physical switch lightly it goes off and then on again when it touches the connection at the back of the switch.
Before I go tearing things apart ... can you advise how best to go about repairing it? (it is like the switch is making contact in the fully open position as well as closed position)

I would start with a visual inspection of the switch itself under the playfield. Evaluate the gap of the switch contacts and look at the solder points to see if they are touching something or close to each other.

2 months later
#4050 2 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Selling my GB LE one owner. Price below the market and in very nice condition. Need to make room, temporarily moving out of state. Price is firm.

Machine - For Sale
Ghostbusters LE-$6950-Low plays-One OwnerHUO - Documented (Home Used Only) “Purchased brand new, it's been in my climate controlled basement since being removed from the box. Mine is one of the few that has the original play field without any ghosting issu...”
10 days ago Rockford, MN 6,950 (Firm)

Wow, this is an amazing price.

#4073 2 years ago
Quoted from Foxis:

Just a quick question to those more familiar with the pin (and apologies for not reading all the threads):
What is the general consensus on the game in terms of difficulty? I just had my first play of the game (on location) and found it quite evil. I have played pinball for a (too) long time, and while not super-skilled I can definitely hold my own.
In general I found it side-drain happy and that many return shots aimed SDTM.
So, was it me, the game, or its setup...?

Return shots SDTM are an issue on the game in general, but can be minimized quite a bit by a good setup. It forces a more controlled style of play than many other stern games, lots of bounce passes, drop catches, etc. otherwise you will drain consistently. Add those two things together and it can be a nasty game. On the flip side, it's a lot of fun when you get one that is setup well and learn to control shots and slow play, and get a feel for the rules.

#4080 2 years ago
Quoted from AtTheArcade:

Funny enough, I struggle more with on location Pros than my in-home LE. I've tried four different locations and all four kick my butt. And I have my LE at the recommended pitch, default outlane post positions, etc. I haven't done anything to make my LE easier. I figured the magna slings made things easier?

I agree magna slings make the game less brutal.. but also add that expletive inducing once in a while random spin SDTM thing...

#4089 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Interesting. I don't have a lot of time on a pro. I just assumed the magna slings would make the game harder, since they don't act at all like normal slings. On a pro, you at least know what the ball is going to do when it's headed towards a sling.

The normal slings are much more aggressive than the magnets and lead to the ball getting out of control much more often. A very bad thing on this game..

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