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(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!


By 30FathomDave

4 years ago



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  • 8,882 posts
  • 716 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by shaunpurslow
  • Topic is favorited by 270 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (3 years ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (3 years ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jarbyjibbo.
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#2299 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I am still waiting on mine GB premium. I ordered it back in November. I keep hearing its coming soon but every week I ask, its delayed again. Now the latest is end of March. Anyone else hearing this?

Ordered mine mid December and had it on the 28th of December. Unless you're outside of the US, I'd maybe at least look at other distributors. I know JJ is all caught up with his GB backlog which means you should get one pretty quickly.

#2328 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Did you guys order premiums or pro's?

Mine was a premium. Had it within 12 days or so of my order back in December.

Call JJ at game exchange of Colorado

2 years later
#6697 1 year ago
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:

Here is the green and pink slime flasher cover. This is the non tapered design. Just apply with double sided tape.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are they too tall or did you not want them to be flush with the top of the flasher dome? Or maybe cover the top with slime and light up from the inside when the flasher goes off even...

2 weeks later
#6775 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

The gap was not a mistake, as is Trudeau’s traditional flipper spacing. The flipper spacing is measured from flipper shaft to flipper shaft and most designers are 7inches post to post. Trudeau’s was always 7 1/8”, but what makes it look bigger is when flippers on this game were set lower than the inlane geometry.

Agreed, it is certainly interesting though that there is enough missinformation out there that people think it was an oversight or accidental design flaw.

#6833 1 year ago
Quoted from Budman:

I haven’t been able to find a Premium but have a line on a low play Pro. Why do you prefer the Premium?

To me GB is one of the pins that absolutely screams prem/le to me. I've played a pro on route and at conventions. It might have been good enough if I didn't own or hadn't played the prem. I'd be patient and find a prem. No offense to the LE fans but I also prefer the artwork on the prem. It looks really sick with my illusion royal hardware powder coat job.

1 month later
#7482 1 year ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

I've owned my GB Pro for a few weeks now. We have over 100 plays on it. I have to say that my family loves the game. The flipper gap does not bother me and my boys at all. However; I have noticed my daughter struggles with it. As a result, I'm going to get the center post. Who has the best center post mod?

I find carrot flippers a much better solution. The flippers just close the gap to that of any other pinball machine she's used to playing. The center post completely changes the experience.

#7488 1 year ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

I was struggling to find white carrot flippers. I can only find yellow.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9592-5

#7490 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

MY e I am missing something but how is the geometry different by adding 1/8 of an inch. Wouldn’t the top surface of the flipper be In the exact same place? Or do you mean the response is different because the coils is moving something with a slightly different weight?

Well the tip of the flipper is not in the same place and the shots at the same point now go to a different angle, etc.. It takes adjustment as you dial in your new timimg if you were used to the old but no different then learning where shots are at for a new game. It's not really that big of a deal.

1 week later
#7517 1 year ago
Quoted from Budman:

Dumb question I’m Sure but, what is involved in changing out the existing flipper bats for carrot bats? Do you simply pull off and replace?

One allen wrench needed and loosen 2 screws. Line up and tighten. One of the easiest things to do on a pin.

#7534 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Are all pins using the same sized allen wrench to remove this? If so, would you be able to tell me what size is needed? Would like to buy a T-gripper one to have on hand.

Yea they are as far as all of the ones I have ever seen. I would recommend a set like I have. It's not exactly these but it's the same concept. It gives you a lot of leverage as well as a comfortable handle to torque with.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-13-key-Standard-SAE-Hex-Key-Set/50385798

#7567 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

This is not correct. Besides, how long do ya nurse a drink? Pingulps come in very handy around here.

Before pingulps drinks got put on the floor and the inevitably kicked over. Now each pin has one and some even have 2.

#7583 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

FYI, I bought this and lets just say, it was a quick return. Bad product. The handle doesnt hold the smaller wrenches steady by any means.

Sorry to hear that. Like I said, it wasn't exactly like mine but of a similar vein. I looked online and found mine (a WAGIC design) to illustrate how it works. I have had it for about 10+ years and it works amazing. Figures that they would take a product that actually works and redesign it to ineffectiveness. Best part is that it sits inside a channel and locks down with the cover to secure it with different sized holes to fit the different sized wrenches. I have torqued the heck out of it and the wrench and the handle haven't flinched. If you can find this set (in its Kobalt or Husky counterpart), I would highly recommend picking it up
OL_KOBALT_CHRIS (resized).jpgOL_KOBALT_PACKAGING1 (resized).jpg

#7629 1 year ago

I still only see the new color DMD code for the Chroma boards, when is the 1.3/1.2 code going to drop, as I have a older board in there.

#7632 1 year ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

wow looks nice!

Agreed! What are the details on that image? Artist, availability, etc?

#7636 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

It will be done when it gets announced. Keep calm.

That's super helpful, thanks

#7643 1 year ago
Quoted from Looprunner:

All right, I'm still fairly new to pinball but I've changed a few switches, soldered some wires, fixed a shooting arm, and replaced numerous items on the playfield. But for the life of me I cannot get this screw loose. I want to put in the carrot flippers and I can't get the old flippers off. Is this the right screw?[quoted image]

It does take a bit of force but I've never had one not break free. Add some leverage to your Allen wrench. Put something round long and hollow over it to increase the torque.... and make sure you're turning it the correct direction

#7664 1 year ago
Quoted from Meegis:

I just tried updating my color DMD, which I have never done before. I followed the instructions on their website and everything seemed to go smooth. However, I don't see any updated color on certain screens.
I have a sigma board, and noticed that it was only 3.0 while the chroma board is at 4.0
Could this be the reason why?

There is specific code for each of the boards. The code for the older boards is not released yet for some reason (I also have an older board in mine). Ohh and don't bother to ask when it'll be ready, you'll just be told "it'll be ready when it's ready, calm down" from very helpful forum members.....

#7671 1 year ago
Quoted from Navystan:

OK, I'm a new member. Just got a GB Premium. Has lots of mods including real knocker; shaker; side blades. I added voodoo glass which you can "see" in the pictures.
My first question. I finally started one of the multi-balls (Station facility) and noticed the strobe-like flashing of all the lights. It was almost overload for me. I don't know if this is normal, if I can adjust this, or maybe the previous owner changed the bulbs.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is that pinstadium or some sort of UV lighting?

#7678 1 year ago
Quoted from Navystan:

No pinstadium. Previous owner put in purple GI lights. But, when I saw the ad, I thought the same thing too.

Gotcha. That is a heck of a lot of purple for sure. Must have been their favorite color or something.

#7692 1 year ago

Which airball protector is everyone using? I would think that there should be enough play time on all the different versions now that one has risen to the top as the design of choice.

1 week later
#7705 1 year ago
Quoted from callaway15:

Sorry if this is a silly question, but I updated my code to 1.17, I have a premium. I think I clicked on the LE code when downloading, and the file has le in it. Looking at the readme file, it does seem that the LE/Premium go together, so did I still get and load the proper code? Just wanting to make sure. It says the LE code on the screen when I turn it on, and I don't remember if it said that or premium in the past. I did download the code from the premium code link, and it has the same file name with le on it that the one I downloaded and loaded had.

It's the same code. There is no functional difference between the premium and LE pins as there is for the pro.

#7709 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

Looks like you should be able to get a deep wall socket on the plastic post to hold it in place.

Needle nose pliers on base of the post on one end and a screw driver on the other. That'll get you there.

#7711 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

That worked! Thanks. G

Anytime. That's from years of getting those little buggers lose restoring pins. It can sometimes be just as tough to get them apart as it is cutting new threads in the plastic (which is what you were doing and why it's takes some torque).

#7717 1 year ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Who sells thicker target foam?

You can get door insulating foam by the foot from the hardware store for next to nothing. I've used that before when I didn't have a full order for PBL.

2 weeks later
#7761 11 months ago

It shouldn't be much different then the Hallmark Tron light cycles. Those were easy enough.

#7781 11 months ago

So drill the PF instead of using carrot flippers? Ok then, have fun finding a buyer when you're tired of it.

#7803 11 months ago
Quoted from PeterG:

another issues I now had a few times. During SF multiball, the machine resets? COmplete blackout and reset. Running code 1.17. Anything wrong here?

Are you sure you're using the correct file? There is one for the chroma boards and this most recent update finally issued code for the older 1.2 &1.3 boards which I had been waiting for.

3 weeks later
#7852 10 months ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

I am really liking this machine. Hard hell as it is. My playfield is in great shape, but does have dimples. I cant really tell if there is any negative effect on play.

Dimples = Pinball

That's just part of the fun...

1 month later
#8017 9 months ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Terry from Pinball Life told me the issues with their Spike system shaker motors have long been resolved.

Agreed, I don't have any issues with mine...

1 month later
#8165 8 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I'll be joining the club soon and excited to be snagging a nice GB Premium later this coming week via a trade. It's already coming with a colorDMD, PDI glass, the left ramp airball plastic, and the plastics for above the outlanes to help prevent ball jump drains over the lanes. I've been doing a bunch of research on other popular mods and had a few questions for the group and would appreciate some opinions:
1) Which is the best mirror mod so you can better see the PKE lanes? I've noticed they laserriific and mezelmods both make one.
2) Can anyone share a pic of the Walter Peck containment mod installed?
3) Has anyone bought one of those ecto 1 Playmobil toys or something like it to make a topper? Would love pics and recommendations on which one to buy
4) Any other must have mods?
5) Thoughts on the custom audio?
Thanks!

I recommend this over any of the mirror mods, imo it's a light-years better solution:

https://mezelmods.com/collections/ghostbusters-pinball-mods/products/ghostbusters-pinball-pke-illumination

#8173 8 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

freddy and others, really appreciate the recommendations and pics! For those of you that installed the Walter Peck containment mod, how did you mount and light it?
olaa - Which ecto 1 is that? I'm trying to find a reasonably priced one that is the right size for a topper.
Do most folks run the custom audio code package from mudflap?
Thanks!

Not a big fan of Bobby Brown and the stock sound is pretty killer so I just stuck with the original.

#8178 8 months ago
Quoted from Phatchit:

I posted this in another thread , but thought I could put it here as well . I added frosted clear drops to the Scoleri bro’s . I used a black paint pen to color in the small tab that triggers the opto ( don’t know if it’s necessary but did it as a precaution ) . Then I added leds to make them pop during gameplay . I tried purple , but I liked the white a little better . I Still want to play around with leds and colors, but really happy with the result . I added connectors to the wiring to make it easy to remove with the mech. I also made sure it can be removed to be back to stock with out any damage to the game . If anyone wants to do this let me know . I could even possibly put together some sort of kit , but would need to find a source of scoleri bro’s target decals . Anyway on with the pics .[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great idea, I have a few questions. Which lamp base is that? Did you just shrink tube the end? What for, does it come in contact with anything on the board? Are the Scolari target decals thick enough to freeze spray off successfully? How is the durability on those new drops? They are pretty close to the flippers and take a pretty good pounding.

1 week later
#8209 7 months ago
Quoted from per3per3:

There might be some additional callouts. Ultimately, I've decided after a week to revert back to the original Stern code as I miss some of the music and it's more well-balanced. Just my opinion, but love things like the librarian mode music and others that have been changed and miss the original. I'm sure a lot of work went into this custom audio code and the one Delts did, I just prefer the original in this case. I wish I could pick and choose from both versions what new things to add and what original things to retain. I don't have time to mess around with Pinbrowser and appreciate that others have the time and the skill to do so!

I have to agree 100%. I think with GB the sound package is already really well done so some subtle accent tweaks is really all that it would need for me. I just don't want it enough to do it myself lol.

1 month later
#8349 6 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

My new Ecto Goggles screen came in. I was a little nervous when I powered it up because it was updating the node board for a good 15 minutes. The game is now back to 100%. However, my HookedOnPinball protector won’t arrive for a few more days. I guess this custom high tech protector will have to do for now. Lol.
[quoted image]

I can't recommend the hooked ecto goggles protector. I have been trying for 30 minutes to modify it enough to get it installed. The design is flawed in that the bracket doesn't reach far enough to meet the stud to mount it to. I've given up at this point, any further enlargement of the hole and it will break through. Waste of $45, any others out there that actually work?

20200530_172342 (resized).jpg20200530_172350 (resized).jpg20200530_172410 (resized).jpg20200530_172458 (resized).jpg
#8358 6 months ago
Quoted from evileye:

That’s right. Stern added that protector on later runs. Mine didn’t have it so the Hooked protector installed in seconds. That should probably be called out in the installation instructions.

Agreed, that is definitely something that should come from the manufacturer as I am sure that there are those who purchase the mod that don't visit pinside or maybe not this thread. I'll give that a try, thanks guys.

1 month later
#8485 4 months ago

I use LCD on all my games, I'm just not a fan of the jumbotron look. Glad you found something that you like though!

2 weeks later
#8550 3 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

huh? Is this a joke? The Zombie Yeti art is awesome on this machine.

Yes... yes it is. Read the full post for clarity.

#8555 3 months ago

I have them as well. Pricey but very well engineered, manufactured, and supported by the designer. I was in the same bucket of not hearing back for a while initially but it was in the middle of the initial Covid stuff so I just bumped him on it once and he promptly replied.

Upon install, I had a resistor issue with one of the modules that he diagnosed and helped me work through. It's working 100% now and looks great.

Buy with confidence.

1 month later
#8654 72 days ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I modded my playfield when I first bought the machine to slightly narrow the gap in the outfield lanes. It was a thankless drain design feature, and the added rails made it a bit more tolerable. Still drains, but not like it was originally.
[quoted image]

Not quite sure what you mean by the term thankless. The outlanes are there by design to try and take your balls so not sure what you expected. Just so I'm clear, you put your outlanes at max open and then installed a second rail? Geometrically it sure looks like the outlane mouth distance at its narrowest setting would the virtually the same distance from the stock lane guide as it is at its highest to your new guide. If you were just looking to solve hops, there are options put there that don't require a permanent modification to the pf.

It's obviously yours to do with what you will but it might be a sticking point if you ever get tired of it and go to move it.

#8682 68 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I’ve been dreading bringing this up for a while, And I’m sure I know what everyone’s opinion is going to be. But I thought I would throw this idea into the open and see what the consensus would be.
Regarding the flipper gap. As has been stated in the past that the design was not meant to have the wide typical flipper gap for the designers usual flow, and has been Typical practice by everyone here to add carrot flavors or the center post if the flipper gap bothered the machine owner.
I have been contemplating for the last couple of years on routing the flipper post holes to allow a semi permanent and reversible 1/8 inch re-positioning of the flipper mech bracket; to each left and right flipper. Of course this modification is to bring the flippers closer together to original desired design but still maintain the Integrity of the machine to allow for full reversal of the modification and to be able to put the mechs right back in the original place should it be desired to move later on.
I’m curious what everyone’s thoughts are on this idea if it where to be thought of as common practice for Ghostbusters if I attempted this modification to the playfield and if others followed suit.

Sounds a lot easier (and reversible) to add $12 worth of carrot flippers to net exactly the same thing. Can't comprehend why anyone would rather go through all the trouble of stripping the lower PF and protecting the finish so they can run a porter cable over the top of it and hope they get it right.

But if you're that bored, go to town.

#8711 66 days ago

LCD for me

1 week later
#8758 55 days ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Does anyone have a solution for my slingshot rubber going behind the leaf switch? I have moved the rubber to the lower but it makes the ball jump, so i dont like that position.
Some have said to bend it over the rubber but the metal leaf isnt long enough to do that.

How about a photo so we can see what you're talking about. I'm having a hard time visualizing. The slingshot posts are in the same place on every machine which should put the rubber exactly where it needs to be. Are they aftermarket rings? Have you changed anything else from stock?

2 weeks later
#8826 37 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

Still looks grainy, can you attach it as a file maybe?

He did, it's a pdf. If you download it you get the ful rez version which you can see all the details all the way down to the janky low res dots Stern used on the plastic printing.

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