Working on a mod/topper. I didn't consider the Stern topper when it was $400 originally. Now I see they are hard to find and the prices are considerably higher.

I purchased two blue, rotating LED sirens from Amazon. They are smaller, maybe 4" tall and run on 3 AA batteries, so 4.5 volts. I was thinking of direct wiring these and then connecting them to a flasher, since Spike flashers are only 5v not the traditional 12v. Anyone strongly advise against this?

The closest flashers are in the ghost trap. I would love to connect them and have them mean something. I thought they signaled the number of balls in the trap, but mine isn't doing that.

When exactly do the backwall ghost trap flashers go off?

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Sick, just sick. I purchased the clear shooter lane protection and laid it in to test fit it, but didn't secure it. I was working on the game and had it up on the service rails and I heard a "pop". No more slings... Everything else worked perfect, all other coils, lighting, witches and both flippers. Then saw that the shooter lane protection raised up and seemingly jammed the auto fire. Suspecting this may have caused the problem.

Entered the Service Menu... No Technician service reminders. No node board errors. And the slings fire when cycling the coils. But slings still didn't fire when normal gameplay started. Decided to run a Factory "Reset". Still no slings, but now the right flipper locks "on" so I turn the game off immediately and the flipper falls.

I manually inspected the Node boards for any obvious burnt components... none. Any advice or ideas before I email Stern in the morning? Thanks.

The ball launch switch, correct.

Stock Stern lighting... I think they are natural white?

Your answer may be in here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

There are many great ideas shared in this thread. I typically search images related to my problem, then open those responses and start reading, as the thread is rather large.

Based on info in this thread you may try81IJJsNt50L._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg

You should be able to get it pretty close to flush, without any sanding at all. When close to the surface, you could dab some colored acrylic paint in the desired color over the Kwikwood. Then you could try a clearcoat repair kit to raise it even with the surface. Again, these ideas were gleemed from @vids thread.

And always practice first, on a scrap piece of wood!!!

Could you post a picture of the area you are wanting to repair?

Not a bad idea. Love hearing different ideas. May come in handy in the future.

I was bothered by the flat buildings plastics used in the game. I removed them and made several 3D printer prototypes to get the best appearance and fit.
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Here’s what I ended up with. The buildings behind the firehouse took roughly 4 hours to print and the Stay Puft buildings took a bit over 6 hours. Once 3D printed, the window lights were cut out with a vinyl cutter and adhered, then the buildings were clear-coated.
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There are two separate areas of buildings. I wish both were simple bolt-on, easy installs. They are bolt-on… easy, but they were a little more involved than I wanted them to be.

The buildings behind the firehouse needed the playfield to be raised and I worked from the side of the game. A few screws needed to be loosened and a few removed to obtain access to the existing buildings. Unscrew both bolts at the bottom of the plastic and affix the 3D buildings with the existing mounts and screws.
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The buildings in front of Stay Puft are more visible and impressive, but of course they were more involved to put on. After removing the two screws that hold the stock building plastic, simply affix the 3D buildings with the existing mounts and screws. Sure, but I needed to take the main ramp completely off the game (removing the flap screws, several ramp mounts, unplugging a few items under the playfield and feed through).
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I am pleased with the way these turned out. Here is the final design.
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Such a great game and great toys as is but just wanted something a bit more custom for the buildings.
I made a couple extra sets, if anyone is interested in one. I will list them in a marketplace ad.IMG_8310 (resized).JPG

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I don't know if I can un-see this! I may never look at Slimer the same way again!

I just relisted my ad but wanted to post that I have 10 sets ready to go if anyone is interested. Thanks to @cottonm4, the installation is much easier with the 12" #1 phillips screwdriver I picked up on Amazon for $11.

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Several Pinsiders have told me they installed the building with the Mezel Mods Walking Stay Puft successfully. I think one said he has to bend it just slightly for clearance, but it worked.

Easy fix , if you want...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reinforcing-stern-cabinet-legs-step-by-step

https://www.pinballlife.com/desegastern-leg-bracket.html

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I think so. I made sure I followed the PinMonk guide for tips and tricks. Make sure you get the right screws. I got them on Amazon.

I went a little crazy because I wanted to be more safe and secure so I went back and did all of my older games and I make sure I use them on any restorations that I do.

Agreed.