I hope you like them, though the designs are just called Acrylic Designs, as they are not associated with speakers, grills, pinball or even my Speaker Light Kits. If they were accessories for my Speaker Light Kits they would obviously be in the accessories section of my website, which they are not.

They are intended for general decor and various D.I.Y. projects. I use them as decorative drink coasters at my house, but a person is free to use them however they see fit. It looks like they worked out quite well in your project.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

IMG_2379_(1).JPG

You know I haven't tried that. I would say with the right design shape it could be. jk...Acrylic is a bit brittle for trying to open a cold one, but otherwise....the possibilities are almost endless.

I have no idea what any of those things are???

Possibly a "Cross the streams!" and "Don't cross the streams!" callout? It's so obvious......it'll never happen.

When you order your speakers from Flipper Fidelity....it has an option to select if you are planning on using speaker light kits or not. If you select you are using the speaker light kits...they sends the upgraded speakers without the spacer rings attached to the front of them. In that case...the light kit frames are being used for the spacer that the extended tweeter needs.

If you already have aftermarket speakers with the attached spacer rings on the front of them, the spacer rings can be removed. I have explained this on my website here:

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/SPIKE_Speakers.pdf

I hope this helps,

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

I think I see an issue here....and keep in mind I'm just spit ballin'.

I *think* the original plug connection that was plugged in the Cabinet Node 1 CN14 is supposed to go to the Aux Power Boards INPUT. The PASS THRU should then come out of the Aux Power Board and go into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node 1 board.

That is always the way I understood it to work...take an original plug that was going into the cabinet node, run it through the aux power boards and them pass it thru to the cabinet node board.

Looking at things...it appears the Aux Power board has +48v printed on one side and GND on the other of the INPUT connection. It is the same size 5 pin connection as the shaker motor connection and also pinned the same (except the shaker motor would already be +12v instead of the +48v the Aux Power board is expecting). My guess is the power board is just taking the +12v you are feeding it instead of the +48v it is expecting to "jump down" and using it.

You can also see the factory wire colors for the CN14 wires match what is going to the INPUT on the PBL picture(Black on one and Grey-Yellow on the other). On this picture you can also see the PASS THRU connection coming out of the Aux Power board is the same as what is going into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node 1 boards.

My guess is the instructions are wrong (or have changed) on the Aux Power board. If the connections are keyed (which many times they are not) or haven't changed (which many times they do, this mistake shouldn't be able to happen.....but my guess that is what is happened and you are feeding the Aux Power Board the +12v from the shaker motor connection instead of the +48v it is expecting from the CN14 connection.

UPDATE: After going back and looking at the picture that you posted...I think you have everything connected correctly EXCEPT the harness that is coming OUT of the PASS THRU connection on the Aux Power Board should be going into CN14 instead of CN16....but don't take my word for it. Ask PBL or give the instructions for the Aux Power Board another look.

Pictures are the board diagram from PBL, install pic from PBL and Cabinet Node 1 info from GB manual.

pbl-600-0002-00--2 (resized).png
pbl-600-0002-00--3 (resized).jpg
GB Manual (resized).jpg

I thought you both beat me to it (after I got done posting), but I'm gonna call you out and say I *think* you are wrong (but in a friendly way of course).

The power adapter that PBL sells that plugs into the ticket dispenser is a standalone single +12v plug. This board is not meant to plug in there. As pointed out above...the Aux Power Board is meant to accept +48v (or so PBLs diagram says) and jump it down to +12v and +5v while passing the +48v on to the Cabinet Node 1 board where it was originally plugged in.

I believe the Aux Power Board is meant to grab the power from the power supply in the head BEFORE it hits the Cabinet Node 1 board and NOT be grabbing power FROM it. One of the main reasons for having it is to be a buffer between the power and the Node Board if something goes wrong or pulls too much power.

The CN16 connection was originally called CN2 on earlier SPIKE games. Looking at your pictures...and seeing what I have from the manuals (and the PBL Aux Power Board info)....I don't see how your game would even operate with it connected as your picture shows.

You show the plug that was originally in the CN14 connection plugged into the Aux Power boards INPUT (which, I believe, is correct), but instead of plugging the PASS THRU going out of the Aux Power Board into the CN14 connection....you have it plugged into the shaker motor connection (CN16). How is your game even working with nothing plugged in the CN14? How is the Cabinet Node 1 Board not minding power from the pass through going into it through the shaker motor CN16 connection??? How is the Aux Power Board not minding +12v coming FROM the Cabinet Node board into it's "output" connection??

Hooked up like your picture...I'm surprised things have been working fine for you or the game is working at all without getting the +48v input to the Cabinet Node 1 board that it is expecting at the CN14 connection.

??? Still a bit confused, but I bet a call / e-mail to PBL will explain you should be running your PASS THRU to the CN14.

So what did you plug in the CN14? In your picture it looks like what was originally in CN14 (5 pin connection with BLACK on one end and GREY-YELLOW wire on the other end) is plugged in the INPUT of the Aux Power Board. Which is where I *think* it IS supposed to be plugged in.

I have a hunch. You had the Aux Power Board connected correctly. CN14 plug going into the INPUT of the Aux Power Board and the PASS THRU coming out of the Aux Power Board and going into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node Board. You went to install the shaker...where confused by there being no CN2 connection down there like the shaker instructions said...so you unplugged the pass thru wire going into the CN14 looking for it. After the confusion you accidentally plugged the the pass thru wire that WAS in the CN14 before into the CN16 (shaker connection) by accident......

Sound like that might have happened??? Even if those connections are keyed...they are keyed completely opposite of each other...so they could be plugged in backwards and the keys wouldn't have prevented it.

RIP Cabinet Node 1 Board. It wasn't the first to die and I'm sure it won't be the last. It seems they could have really used a bit more engineering as they have changed a few times in the handful of SPIKE games that have been released. Why have 2 5 pin connections the same size right next to each other, both only using 2 wires in the 5 connection housing and have them pinned completely opposite from each other so they can still be plugged in incorrectly??? It just seems like there should be enough configurations in there to make them different. Why not a key in the middle of one and one on the right side of the other???

Yeah....I was wondering from that picture how anything was working.....as it didn't seem good for the Cabinet Node Board or the Aux Power Board getting and sending power in different places than they should.

Sorry Paul. Hopefully this cautionary tale will help someone else out.

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/SPIKE_Power.pdf

That is where the SPIKE Speaker Light Kit is meant to be plugged in. Of course I can't be sure what power cable / adapter were included with the kit that you have.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

As bicyclenut mentioned, the ColorDMD should have come with an adapter and splitter (SEE ATTACHMENT). This will allow you to hook the ColorDMD into the CN6 connection and leave an additional +12v connection to hook another mod into. Unfortunately...that extra connection is the SAM type +12v connection and not the CN6 type.

I have seen this mentioned on multiple threads and it is becoming a bigger issue. That open (from the factory) CN6 connection is getting way too crowded. Many mod makers are flocking to it, seemingly without any concern about where people are going to plug other powered mods into. I think it would have been best for all mods to have stuck to the classic SAM type +12v power connection and include adapters to hook into the CN6 or some other +12v open connection on the game if they would like to. As it is, getting splitters and adapters that use the SAM type connection are easy to find, easy to make and cheap. As for the CN6 connection....I have found one source to add 1 additional CN6 type connection (making 2 total) and it was $40. If mods had the SAM type connection, a person could get a more affordable 8 way splitter to plug into the CN6 connection and have plenty of room for other +12v mods to plug in.......as long as those mods are using the classic SAM type power connection.

https://www.pinballlife.com/8-way-power-splitter-board-for-stern-pinball-machines-using-the-spike-spike-2-system.html
ColorDMD for GoT & GB (resized).jpg

The speaker lights / GB acrylic designs would look much better if you mount the speaker grills BEHIND the light frames.

H done white light (resized).JPG

They aren't just similar.....

With that design...I highly recommend you mount them in the order of...

From back of speaker panel:

acrylic design (mirror side out)
hex standoffs (included with Speaker Light Kit)
Speaker Light Kit light frame
speaker grill
speaker

If you have upgraded speaker that has extended tweeters that protrude past the speakers mounting points I recommend you remove the original speaker grills from the mount stack all together.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits)

PS: More back in stock soon.