(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!

By 30FathomDave

7 years ago


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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #4105 Link to replacement auto plunge spring that improves launch for some. Posted by Spelunk71 (6 years ago)

Post #4120 Shorter Hex Spacer to make left short easier. Posted by Blakester (6 years ago)

Post #4129 Custom target brackets that help eliminate airballs. Posted by swinks (6 years ago)

Post #10285 Color DMD variants video Posted by wolffcub (2 years ago)


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#10055 2 years ago

I'm looking for a Ghostbusters Premium. Is this going to be an exercise in futility?

#10060 2 years ago
Quoted from P1nhead:Seems like a good deal to me.

I sent him contact info yesterday. Have not heard back yet.

Thanks for offering it up.

#10061 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

No, just an exercise in emptying your wallet.

Crazy hobby, ain't it.

#10072 2 years ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

I still remember buying my premium back in 2017 for 11k (Aus) and that was a HUGE amount of cash for me to buy a pin then. But it was fully loaded with great mods, had the topper, colourdmd, shaker, a fantastic powdercoat - just everything. Such a beautiful machine, and I'm a Ghostbusters nut, meaning I couldn't walk away from it - so I remember trying to justify it for quite a while with the wife.
I think I could comfortably get 15k-16k for it now, but honestly it kind of irks me to see premiums being sold for 16k (especially those still in production, with sellers just jacking up prices for the impatient people among us) and basically I wouldn't dream of selling it anyway.

I have a shot at a Premium, modded, for a little less than $11K. It is an easy 6 hour round trip. No shipping charges. Just a couple of tanks of gas.

I'll assume it is mint condition.

Should I chase it? Or wait for the movie sugar-rush to come down?

Thanks in advance.

#10077 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:I have a shot at a Premium, modded, for a little less than $11K. It is an easy 6 hour round trip. No shipping charges. Just a couple of tanks of gas.
I'll assume it is mint condition.
Should I chase it? Or wait for the movie sugar-rush to come down?
Thanks in advance.

Quoted from Ceemunkey:

11k USD? Mine was in aussie dollars - if i saw one here in Australia for 11k today - I'd probably buy it and have 2!
Not sure what a good price is for GB in USD, but I'm biased and would say go for it. Such a good game, tough, but amazing.

Anybody else?

My neighbor just bought a real nice used car for $13K. Any way you cut it, $10K-$11K it is a lot of money. But I don't see many for sale. Is this truly one of those pins that when people say "it is nailed to the floor. It will never leave" they really mean it?

I am questioning my sanity. I am trying real hard to not fall off in the deep end.

#10080 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I get the hesitation.

Thank you.

Quoted from delt31:

GB spike has nothing to do with the movie.

As far as movies, I have never seen the original movie. Ever. The best I could do when I was working 7 days a week was to sing along with Ray Parker on the radio while on my way to work.

Quoted from delt31:

It’s a classic franchise

Agreed.

Quoted from delt31:

and the pinball hobby is exploding.

Agreed again.

Quoted from delt31:

word on the street is that stern no longer has the license so things will only get worse.

This confuses me. GB has already been built and sold. Not seeing how Stern having a license, or not, would effect anything. But maybe this answers another question I have .

What would prevent Stern from doing some sort of Vault Edition like was done with Ironman? I guess loss of license would prevent a remake happening.

#10092 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If you are asking if that is a fair market price for the premium, then depending on the mods, yea it's pretty close. You won't take a bath on the pin if you go to sell later unless the pin market just outright tanks.

Thank you. This is sort of what I am looking for.

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

You could wait to try and save a few hundred dollars but that wait might be years or never.

I am aware of the " I just missed it" scenario.

I have been moving other pins around in my house today trying to make a hole.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

I bought my GB premium in August, 2017 new in the box for $7,200. I would pay $11 for one today if I didn’t still have mine. It’s the pin I’ve owned longer than any other, and I’ve had many pins come and go. It’s really a complete package in my opinion. Tremendous art package with endless eye candy. Put some Voodoo or Invisiglass on a GB and just stare at it. You don’t have to turn this pin on to enjoy owning it. The music, callouts (custom by Ernie Hudson and original movie quotes) and decent DMD animations (the very last Stern title produced with a DMD, except vaults) are solid and iconic. The playfield design is awesome imho. There are like 11 shots to keep track of, if you include the captive balls and other targets, all of which are nicely incorporated. The ramps are unique and a challenge. Finally, the code is terrific now that it’s finished, with 3 different ladders of modes, and several multiball and wizard modes. It’s a blast to mod too.
You have to add a couple airball protectors to GB, but yours should have those already. If I could only keep one pin from my collection, GB would get serious consideration.
Good luck either way!

Thank you.

Are there any gotchas I need to be aware of? I read about some guy having to change his play field. I am unsure of how much credence to place on that.

#10093 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

If I could only keep one pin from my collection, GB would get serious consideration.

I have played every pin in your collection save Johnny Mnemonic and Elvira and the Party Monsters. I would like to have more time on The Shadow. And my playing skills have improved to the point I would like another stab at BSD.

A friend of mine has EHOH and I like it a lot.

But the others are not my cup of tea. I would come and play for Fish Tales and Scared Stiff but would not want to own either.

#10097 2 years ago

Here is a picture of the GB I am most likely going to buy. The only mod on here I can research is the lighted Twinkie for $79.00 ! I am mostly clueless.

Are these mods the desirable mods? What mods make everybody's antenna quiver?

Screen Shot 2021-12-08 at 10.18.45 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-08 at 10.18.45 PM (resized).png

I see the mods available for this pin and realize I can buy the pin for $11K and spend another $2K on just mods. This pin is a mod maker's wet dream.

Stern made 500 LE's.

Anybody have production numbers on the Premium and Pro?

#10101 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I bought my GB premium in August, 2017 new in the box for $7,200. I would pay $11 for one today if I didn’t still have mine. It’s the pin I’ve owned longer than any other, and I’ve had many pins come and go. It’s really a complete package in my opinion. Tremendous art package with endless eye candy. Put some Voodoo or Invisiglass on a GB and just stare at it. You don’t have to turn this pin on to enjoy owning it. The music, callouts (custom by Ernie Hudson and original movie quotes) and decent DMD animations (the very last Stern title produced with a DMD, except vaults) are solid and iconic. The playfield design is awesome imho. There are like 11 shots to keep track of, if you include the captive balls and other targets, all of which are nicely incorporated. The ramps are unique and a challenge. Finally, the code is terrific now that it’s finished, with 3 different ladders of modes, and several multiball and wizard modes. It’s a blast to mod too.
You have to add a couple airball protectors to GB, but yours should have those already. If I could only keep one pin from my collection, GB would get serious consideration.
Good luck either way!

Quoted from Flash71:

Well said! I feel the same way.

The seller and I made a phone call handshake. I bring it home on Sunday. Prices will collapse on Monday

Thanks to all who offered their thoughts.

#10119 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

when not used, the streams tuck to the side so the ball can still go down the outlanes and only the proton stream tip interacts with the ball when activated

How do they mount to the play field?

#10124 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Anyone have mods for sale?

I might, after I get the GB I bought home.

#10126 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

easier to check out the manual located here
https://swinks.com.au/manuals

OK. I see. Thanks.

It looks like I should consider buying this kit. If this is possible, where do I look? Thanks.

#10130 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

this thread here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swinks-gb-proton-guns-mod-development
people can jump on to the list with no money down and do about 12 kits a month - just about the start Batch 3

I can definitely see the utility and cool factor of these proton guns. But I need to digest my GB purchase and work these into my budget; Just buying this box has blown my budget for a bit

#10139 2 years ago

We are home and will get unloaded this afternoon. This pin turned out to be HUO; I bought from the original owner.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stern used these little bitty, chintzy, slider buttons that offer no protection at all when having to get the pin positioned for loading in a concrete driveway. Pissed me off.

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That shit is not going to happen anymore. I made some outriggers. The screws were matched up to the nail holes the buttons left behind. No new holes were drilled.

IMG_8648 (resized).jpgIMG_8648 (resized).jpg

The crappy little button Stern used is the one on top. I buy the larger slider buttons at retail for 25 cents each. Stern probably gets them for a nickel each and saved a couple of more pennies by getting the size challenged buttons. That is being real cheap. R-E-A-L cheap.

IMG_8647 (resized).jpgIMG_8647 (resized).jpg

I don't recall the Munsters I bought and sold as having these little bitty half-assed buttons nailed on.

Once I get settled in, I will paint the outriggers black and they will look like this. And I will have to touch up the cabinet.

IMG_8654 (resized).JPGIMG_8654 (resized).JPG

#10141 2 years ago

My seller had bought a mod that he had not installed yet. I am still learning my way around with GB. I do not know what everything is called.

This mod is replacing the 2D buildings in the back with some 3D buildings.

IMG_8659 (resized).jpgIMG_8659 (resized).jpg

I installed the building that sits on the right side behind the pops and in front of the marshmallow guy.

IMG_8670 (resized).jpgIMG_8670 (resized).jpg

They are made by someone named Sam. This is all I know. I would like to talk with Sam if anyone knows how to contact him.

His installation instructions need to be modified. The instructions say to remove the ramp to install this mod in front of Stay Puft. You do not need to remove the ramp. Do not remove the ramp.

GB (resized).jpegGB (resized).jpeg
===========================================================================

Here is how to install this unit.

The slimer is attached to its rotating shaft with an Allen screw. Loosen that screw and swing Slimer out of the way. You can remove Slimer from the rotating shaft and lay him on the play field but it is not necessary. The rotating shaft is keyed so there is no way to reinstall Slimer incorrectly.

With slimer out of the way, you can access the 3 screws that attach the buildings to the top of the pop bumpers. Remove the buildings from the pop bumpers.

IMG_8663 (resized).jpgIMG_8663 (resized).jpg

With the pop bumper buildings out of the way, you can easily access the two small screws that attach the 2D buildings to their mounting tabs. A long shank #1 Phillips screwdriver would be best, although I did this swap out with a short shank screwdriver.

IMG_8665 (resized).jpgIMG_8665 (resized).jpg

So, EZ PZY, right? Nope. There is one more challenge. The factory 2D building measures .050" thick. The Mod buildings mounting point is thicker and measures approximately .110" thick. The Stern factory uses short screws to attach 2D parts to brackets. These screws are almost too short to install the 3D building.

IMG_8679 (resized).JPGIMG_8679 (resized).JPG

Both 2D and 3D buildings are shown here. You can see the difference in thickness.

IMG_8678 (resized).JPGIMG_8678 (resized).JPG

What should have been a 1 minute job to install this 3D building morphed into a 40 minute odyssey as I tried to get these screws installed. I finally had to get creative and make one of the screws a captive screw ( https://fastenerengineering.com/what-are-captive-screws/ ) to do this install.

These screws are very small. Like the screws you see inside a computer. I do not know where to source them. But if the 2 screws were 1/4" inch longer the install would have been a breeze. The short factory screws will make you cuss. If I had a long shank magnetic #1 Phillips screwdriver the install would have been easier, but I don't have such a tool and don't want to buy one.

Recap:

Do not remove the ramp. Swing Slimer out of the way, remove the pop buildings and pray for longer screws.

I hope this helps anybody else who might be getting ready to install these buildings mods.

I have not gotten to the buildings that are sitting behind the fire house.

It is a nice looking mod.
======================

Now, I need to make some airball protectors.

#10144 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I have that same mod, can't remember this to be so difficult to setup. For sure I did not have to remove the popbumper buildings.

Quoted from Nds777:

I was also able to install the right side buildings without dismantling anything. The left looked to be more of a challenge and I haven’t seriously tried it yet.
This was on a Pro so maybe Premium is different.

I suppose if I had an 18" #1 Phillips long screwdriver I could have done something like that. Beyond that, you both leave me scratching my head.

#10148 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Well it's in there. So maybe it was just tooling you did not have.

I cannot find a good picture of a Pro to see how they are put together.

I have figured out that if I go in with a 12" #1 Phillips head driver that I can access both screws that way. But without that long screwdriver, the buildings have to come off the pops or I cannot access.

But whatever way works, removing the ramp is not necessary as stated in the instructions.

#10149 2 years ago

In 2 days of ownership I have experienced the air balls I have been reading about. I see the remedy is to install a 12" clear plastic strap across the left lamp entryway. Meh.

I worked up something different. I am going to have to change the profile as I have had a couple of airballs get by. I'll have to experiment some but they are working pretty good, so far.

They are kind of hard to see but that is what I want. Small footprint. And "disappeared" when I am playing.

IMG_8695 (resized).jpgIMG_8695 (resized).jpg

Here is a better view. They are just a pair of small "paddles" I placed over the top of the Left Ramp standup targets.

Like I say, I need to alter the profile to stop last couple of air balls. If they work out, I might see if I can make a few to sell.

IMG_8730 (resized).JPGIMG_8730 (resized).JPG

#10151 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

nice control idea though the target angle is what causes most of the airballs but that is a smaller and cleaner look than the big plastic variations
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace

Thanks. I understand the cause. I ran into this issue on my Robocop and made the cure. I am out my time and a couple of pieces of scrap plastic I had laying around. I am not even going to think about making anymore of them.

Your bracket is the superior solution and they are going into my budget.

These are the same targets that are in the Munsters I had. Munsters did not have this problem.

#10155 2 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

Awesome! I never knew about these. Ordered a set!

I saw in that other thread that you just got your GB for the big bucks. I am in the same nose-bleed price section as you. My problem is that I went to the Denver Showdown and of the 400 pins that were there, GB, along with AFM were the only 2 pin on the floor that did not bore me. And I am not a great player.

I crossed a lot of pins off of my bucket list on that trip. I used to think I would like to have a Fish Tales, Wheel of Fortune, or Space Shuttle. Now, I would not walk across the street to play any of the 3.

When we got home I told my friend I was going buy a Ghostbusters. He said, " You are going to pay !" He did not lie I employed the Wall Street phrase : Buy high. Sell higher. I dug deep. Hopefully, I am not the Greater Fool

#10159 2 years ago
Quoted from njvc:

The auto retract on my left drop target (Tony Scoleri) is not working. The target retracts if you hit it, but if you don't, it just stays up, even after the mode completes. It's often still up when you start a new game.
Has anyone had this issue before? Any known solutions?
Thanks.

I'm new here and still figuring my way around. This might be what you are looking for. But then it might not.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ghostbusters-scoleri-brothers-drop-target-spring-fix-kit.html

Here is how those springs look on mine. Someone at the factory made them work

IMG_8686 (resized).jpgIMG_8686 (resized).jpg

#10161 2 years ago

There is supposed to be some kind of protector for this hologram mirror?

What is it?

What is it called?

Where can I buy whatever it is?

Thanks

IMG_8746 (resized).JPGIMG_8746 (resized).JPG

#10166 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Should have been given to the original owner from their distributor. If you want to buy one, here you go!
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7024-00

Thank you. Very much.

So, I need to buy this part from Marco Then there is something else I need that is exclusive to Pinball Life.

The U.S. Postal Service loves me

#10167 2 years ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

Air balls are caused by not only by the original targets, but also by the ramp itself

Speak of the devil.

Ramp air ball shuts me down.

IMG_8748 (resized).jpgIMG_8748 (resized).jpg
IMG_8749 (resized).jpgIMG_8749 (resized).jpg

I had one of those cheap turkey roasting pans with the plastic lid laying around. That cheap plastic is easy to bend.

IMG_8752 (resized).jpgIMG_8752 (resized).jpg

IMG_8753 (resized).jpgIMG_8753 (resized).jpg

IMG_8754 (resized).jpgIMG_8754 (resized).jpg

It just sort of slips/clamps to the sides of the ramp. It is not elegant but it will stay put and shut that ramp air ball action down. It hides well.

IMG_8757 (resized).jpgIMG_8757 (resized).jpg

#10170 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

You know you would not have that lost ball issue behind the old firehouse if you had my firehouse installed LOL.

Show me a picture, please. And then stand in line; The money train is rolling I just spent primo bucks to drag this pin home and already have spent $116.00 with Pinball Life for a couple of mods

#10173 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My seller had bought a mod that he had not installed yet. I am still learning my way around with GB. I do not know what everything is called.
This mod is replacing the 2D buildings in the back with some 3D buildings.
[quoted image]
I installed the building that sits on the right side behind the pops and in front of the marshmallow guy.
[quoted image]
They are made by someone named Sam. This is all I know. I would like to talk with Sam if anyone knows how to contact him.
His installation instructions need to be modified. The instructions say to remove the ramp to install this mod in front of Stay Puft. You do not need to remove the ramp. Do not remove the ramp.
[quoted image]
===========================================================================
Here is how to install this unit.
The slimer is attached to its rotating shaft with an Allen screw. Loosen that screw and swing Slimer out of the way. You can remove Slimer from the rotating shaft and lay him on the play field but it is not necessary. The rotating shaft is keyed so there is no way to reinstall Slimer incorrectly.

With slimer out of the way, you can access the 3 screws that attach the buildings to the top of the pop bumpers. Remove the buildings from the pop bumpers.
[quoted image]
With the pop bumper buildings out of the way, you can easily access the two small screws that attach the 2D buildings to their mounting tabs. A long shank #1 Phillips screwdriver would be best, although I did this swap out with a short shank screwdriver.
[quoted image]
So, EZ PZY, right? Nope. There is one more challenge. The factory 2D building measures .050" thick. The Mod buildings mounting point is thicker and measures approximately .110" thick. The Stern factory uses short screws to attach 2D parts to brackets. These screws are almost too short to install the 3D building.
[quoted image]
Both 2D and 3D buildings are shown here. You can see the difference in thickness.
[quoted image]
What should have been a 1 minute job to install this 3D building morphed into a 40 minute odyssey as I tried to get these screws installed. I finally had to get creative and make one of the screws a captive screw ( https://fastenerengineering.com/what-are-captive-screws/ ) to do this install.
These screws are very small. Like the screws you see inside a computer. I do not know where to source them. But if the 2 screws were 1/4" inch longer the install would have been a breeze. The short factory screws will make you cuss. If I had a long shank magnetic #1 Phillips screwdriver the install would have been easier, but I don't have such a tool and don't want to buy one.
Recap:
Do not remove the ramp. Swing Slimer out of the way, remove the pop buildings and pray for longer screws.
I hope this helps anybody else who might be getting ready to install these buildings mods.
I have not gotten to the buildings that are sitting behind the fire house.
It is a nice looking mod.
======================
Now, I need to make some airball protectors.

I have just discovered that with a 12" number 1 Phillips head screwdriver that you can sneak in next to the left ramp and access the two screws that attach the building sitting behind the firehouse.

https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-Screwdriver-QM-STVR-Length-Magnetic/dp/B074V69DH6/

This 12" length of dowel rod shows how easy it is to get back there.

IMG_8776 (resized).jpgIMG_8776 (resized).jpg

IMG_8777 (resized).jpgIMG_8777 (resized).jpg

You may as well go buy that screwdriver and have it in your tool box. You will need it whenever you have to dig in and swap out the rubber rings that are living down there.

#10174 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

It’s awesome!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No shit ! How much is one of those going to cost me

#10181 2 years ago

Has anybody bought a pair of these sexy side rails and decided not to use them?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-side-armor-kit-do-you-have-it

Screen Shot 2021-12-17 at 1.41.45 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-17 at 1.41.45 PM (resized).png

#10183 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Looking at the metal on my right ramp. Seems like the shot would be easier if the metal piece was bent a bit to make the shot wider.
Are they all like this? Has anyone tried to bend it a little?[quoted image]

Mine looks like yours. It is on the inside curve. Play on.

#10184 2 years ago

Has anybody experienced any difficulties with procuring replacement/repair parts?

These pics are Marco Specialities.

Anything that can be bought carries a high price tag. But there is not much left to buy. There is some serious lack of parts availability. Mostly specialty parts. What happens if your Slimer breaks?

Did Stern underestimate demand and not produce enough repair parts? Or have people been loading and hoarding parts for a rainy day? Or have a lot of machines broken down and used up the spare parts?

Screen Shot 2021-12-18 at 9.22.19 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-18 at 9.22.19 PM (resized).png
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#10192 2 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

Where are you guys getting these 3d cities? I want!

I found Sam. I advised him that he does not need to pull the ramp. He got back with me and was very appreciative and said would make the changes to his instructions.

I suggested he should raise his price and include a 12" #1 Phillips screwdriver with his buildings and make it a kit since many will probably not have a 12" driver in their tool box.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/116510

#10193 2 years ago
Quoted from Master_of_Trolls:

I also removed the city (3 small screws) from the pop bumpers. I did not do anything with slimer. I removed the small cover over the newton ball (just in front of the the pop bumpers) and was able to use a magnetic tipped 9.5 inch screwdriver to easily remove the 2 screws that secure the plastic cityscape, in front of the Staypuft MM man. It was actually quite easy. Putting everything back together just took a few minutes.

My slimer was sitting right over the top of one the pop bumper building screws. My screwdriver is shorter than yours and that is probably why I had to loosen the slimer and move him.

I have ordered a 12" magnetic tip Phillips screwdriver. It should be here tomorrow. And I think with a 12" driver everything will be EZ access for both buildings.

But since not everyone has a 12" screwdriver, any method showing how to do this without having to remove the ramp is a big plus for everyone.

Using a 90 degree Phillips head to get behind the firehouse good to know.

#10194 2 years ago
Quoted from usul27:

Check with Stern directly. I'm not sure if Marcos is an official Stern reseller and has direct access to Stern spare parts. Lots of these parts are available easily here in Europe.

I'll have to call Stern to see how this works.

I did buy some parts from Stern a few years ago, but Stern required me to go through a distributor. My local distro has an $80.00 order minimum ( although judging from some of the prices I see, making an $80.00 minimum order will not be a problem ) I had to buy from a long distant distro and pay shipping to my home.
==================================================================

There are various rules and regulations regarding spare parts.

Screen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.00.37 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.00.37 AM (resized).png
========================================================

Screen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.02.13 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.02.13 AM (resized).png

I'm thinking a pinball machine could quality as an electronic devise in 2021.

Anyway, here is a story about a guy who bought a new TV and Sony tried to screw him over.

https://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-lazarus-20151211-column.html

" California’s Lemon Law is intended first and foremost to keep new-car buyers from being stuck with a hunk of junk.

" But here’s something you may not know: The law is also a powerful weapon for ensuring that your pricey electronic gadgets don’t end up in the dumpster any time they break.

" Under the Lemon Law — a.k.a. the Song-Beverly Consumer Warranty Act — manufacturers of most household electronic goods that sell for more than $100 have to provide spare parts for up to seven years, regardless of warranty status.
=======================================================

Quoted from usul27:

Lots of these parts are available easily here in Europe

" EU Passes Regulations Forcing Manufacturers To Have Spare Parts Available For 7–10 Years After Product Purchase

https://www.boredpanda.com/eu-recognize-right-to-repair/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic
--------------------------------------------------------------------

I am going to contact Stern. I want to keep my powder dry. But over $10K for a new pinball machine, I would expect affordable specialty replacement parts to be available for a real long time.

https://sternpinball.com/game/godzilla/
====================================
At least in the pinball world we do not need to worry about the" right to repair" laws that are (finally) sweeping the world.

https://www.bbc.com/news/business-57665593
---------------------------------------------------------

The U.S. has finally launched a law about manufacturers not wanting to provide parts and manuals to "unauthorized" repair people.

Here is some corporate bullshit from Apple Computer.

“Creating greater access to Apple genuine parts gives our customers even more choice if a repair is needed,” Apple COO Jeff Williams said in a blog post. “In the past three years, Apple has nearly doubled the number of service locations with access to Apple genuine parts, tools, and training, and now we’re providing an option for those who wish to complete their own repair.

https://www.computerworld.com/article/3641328/apple-gives-in-on-right-to-repair.html

And the corporate BS from John Deere.

" Deere supports a customer's right to safely maintain, diagnose and repair their equipment," said John Deere in a company statement. "When customers buy from John Deere, they own the equipment and can choose to personally maintain or repair the product."Jul 7, 2021

https://www.agweb.com/news/policy/politics/aem-john-deere-respond-bidens-planned-executive-order-over-right-repair

Screen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.08.29 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-12-20 at 9.08.29 AM (resized).png
#10199 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Still searching for Stern Proton Rails
Message Me if you have a set laying about

May I ask, what is a Proton rail?

#10201 2 years ago

OK. I did not know what they were called. I am looking for a pair of blacks. I have found 2 sources for some of the greens. If interested in greens, PM me.

#10203 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Still searching for Stern Proton Rails
Message Me if you have a set laying about

Quoted from cottonm4:

May I ask, what is a Proton rail?

Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. I did not know what they were called. I am looking for a pair of blacks. I have found 2 sources for some of the greens. If interested in greens, PM me.

Now there is only one source of green GB side rails.

I post the link.

https://coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-parts-pinball-machine-parts/stern-ghostbusters-pinball-machine-game-custom-officially

The website says there are blacks available. There are no blacks, only greens I( I called him). And you will not like his prices.

#10211 2 years ago

Dredging up the past: As I comb through 5 years worth of posts, I come onto these posts that talk of reversing the sling rubbers for the Premium and LE models. Supposedly you get better funky magnet action at the slings.

This is what the sling rubbers look like on mine.

IMG_8796 (resized).JPGIMG_8796 (resized).JPG

These posts say to reverse the sling rubbers to look like this. I have a Premium. Is this reversing the rubbers advise still valid? This is a worthwhile mod?

Thanks in advance.

f85c55ed2d9f39b186abbad6a4051d6c35393332 (resized).jpgf85c55ed2d9f39b186abbad6a4051d6c35393332 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Well Tron is an great game for sure so I can see why it gets so much love but I really like GB also personally. Seems like I will lay off of GB for awhile and then play it and really enjoy it and wonder why i wasn’t playing it. Do you have the Premium? If so reverse the sling rubbers if you haven’t already done so, makes the game way more fun. I also moved my outlane posts in and you get a few less ball drains from that, it kinda makes the game seem a little less brutal and that of course equals more fun.

Quoted from jyeakley:

Why reverse the sling rubbers?

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Because on the Premium it makes the magna slings more active and it really brings the game to life. It doesn’t make them too active, just more active than they are from the factory. Don’t ask me why it does either because I really don’t even know why, all I know is it is cool as hell lol. Golfing Dad is the one who told me about it and I’m glad that I took his advice and switched mine around. It’s the best mod you can do and it’s totally free!

Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

Yes, did the sling rubbers last month and just did a mates today, we both have the LE

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Do it, you wont regret it! I normally wouldn't do that but this game needs a little help to keep the frustration level down a bit. It won't make a huge difference but it's enough to where it helps you enjoy the game more. Also if you have a premium model reverse the rubbers on the slings. Doing those 2 things will make you enjoy the game much much more I promise you.

Quoted from golfingdad1:

Flip the sling rubbers around.
Put the long sling rubber where the post rubbers are and the post rubber where the long sling rubber goes.
There are two notches on metal post for proper positions. Made a Huge difference on my game .

Quoted from psexton:

Thanks but I believe I am looking for how to increase the left/right magnet power settings. I see them in the Test menu but not in the Adjustment menu. That may not be the right setting anyway. I just want the magna slings to turn on more often like the on location game I played.

Quoted from finnflash:

I think if you switch the rubber, they will "turn on" more often.

Quoted from golfingdad1:

If you switch them around they will activate much more .
The way they come from the factory require a much stronger hit to activate them. If you switch them around it activates with a much softer hit to the slings , which in turn makes the slings become stronger and "do" more .

Quoted from toddsolus:

I can't believe what a difference this makes...wow..a whole new game

Quoted from golfingdad1:

Told you
When I first got my GB I was REALLY disappointed with how the magna slings worked. Like to the point of damn this machine has to go, but after another pinsider told me about switching the rubbers it's been great .
Complete game changer !

Quoted from golfingdad1:

[quoted image]

The long Sling rubber should be on the bottom , the small round post rings should be on top.

Quoted from AtTheArcade:

Man...I almost breezed right by these posts about switching those rubbers around but thankfully your picture made me do a double take! I just swapped mine around and it does make quite the difference. One of my favorite features of this machine are the magna slings and especially when they are lit are do all those crazy tricks. Swapping the rubbers around had those puppies lit on my second ball of my first game. Before that I could go several games without seeing them lit. Thanks to all you guys who bumped this!

#10213 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

It's a 2 minute job, so try it yourself. Yes it does make a difference, if you like it it is up to you.

I made the swap. I like it.

#10223 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Takes less time to swap them then it does to quote 13 posts give it a try and if you don't like it switch it back. What's there to lose? I have it done and prefer it.

I did not want anybody to think I did not do a search

3 weeks later
#10419 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My seller had bought a mod that he had not installed yet. I am still learning my way around with GB. I do not know what everything is called.
This mod is replacing the 2D buildings in the back with some 3D buildings.
[quoted image]
I installed the building that sits on the right side behind the pops and in front of the marshmallow guy.
[quoted image]
They are made by someone named Sam. This is all I know. I would like to talk with Sam if anyone knows how to contact him.
His installation instructions need to be modified. The instructions say to remove the ramp to install this mod in front of Stay Puft. You do not need to remove the ramp. Do not remove the ramp.
[quoted image]
===========================================================================
Here is how to install this unit.
The slimer is attached to its rotating shaft with an Allen screw. Loosen that screw and swing Slimer out of the way. You can remove Slimer from the rotating shaft and lay him on the play field but it is not necessary. The rotating shaft is keyed so there is no way to reinstall Slimer incorrectly.

With slimer out of the way, you can access the 3 screws that attach the buildings to the top of the pop bumpers. Remove the buildings from the pop bumpers.
[quoted image]
With the pop bumper buildings out of the way, you can easily access the two small screws that attach the 2D buildings to their mounting tabs. A long shank #1 Phillips screwdriver would be best, although I did this swap out with a short shank screwdriver.
[quoted image]
So, EZ PZY, right? Nope. There is one more challenge. The factory 2D building measures .050" thick. The Mod buildings mounting point is thicker and measures approximately .110" thick. The Stern factory uses short screws to attach 2D parts to brackets. These screws are almost too short to install the 3D building.
[quoted image]
Both 2D and 3D buildings are shown here. You can see the difference in thickness.
[quoted image]
What should have been a 1 minute job to install this 3D building morphed into a 40 minute odyssey as I tried to get these screws installed. I finally had to get creative and make one of the screws a captive screw ( https://fastenerengineering.com/what-are-captive-screws/ ) to do this install.
These screws are very small. Like the screws you see inside a computer. I do not know where to source them. But if the 2 screws were 1/4" inch longer the install would have been a breeze. The short factory screws will make you cuss. If I had a long shank magnetic #1 Phillips screwdriver the install would have been easier, but I don't have such a tool and don't want to buy one.
Recap:
Do not remove the ramp. Swing Slimer out of the way, remove the pop buildings and pray for longer screws.
I hope this helps anybody else who might be getting ready to install these buildings mods.
I have not gotten to the buildings that are sitting behind the fire house.
It is a nice looking mod.
======================
Now, I need to make some airball protectors.

I finally got around to ordering that 12" long #1 Phillips screwdriver from Amazon. With this long screwdriver, I was able to access the 2 screws for the building that sits behind the firehouse and was able to install the 3D building.

c1becc2c2cbb61c89082f2629931cef64ade5126 (resized).jpgc1becc2c2cbb61c89082f2629931cef64ade5126 (resized).jpg

This longer screwdriver will let you slip between one of the slots in the left ramp and then you can access the screws and make the swap.

IMG_8926 (resized).JPGIMG_8926 (resized).JPG

IMG_8921 (resized).jpgIMG_8921 (resized).jpg

IMG_8923 (resized).jpgIMG_8923 (resized).jpg

And the longer screwdriver makes for easier access to the building sitting behind the pops.

IMG_8924 (resized).jpgIMG_8924 (resized).jpg

I did not take a picture of the 3D building. But it is now installed.

I suppose that eventually I might find another use for this long screwdriver. Right now, it has cost $10.00 just to access those 2 screws from behind the firehouse.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7CH6WN

1 week later
#10504 2 years ago
Quoted from billsgto:

Lately I notice that the flippers momentarily die, even during early gameplay, so I don't think the coils are overheated or anything like that.
Has anyone else had this issue found a remedy?
Thanks

I thought that was flipper behavior during one particular mode/scene. I have had it happen twice and if it is a feature it makes no sense.

#10505 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

we all don't really know, I did a have a brief conversation with Trudeau on year of release but was very secret about level of implementation but it was going to be expensive so canned on all 3 models - just surprising that all the playfield still kept the holes.

Quoted from swinks:

just surprising that all the playfield still kept the holes.

I'm guessing the designers pushed hard on getting production rolling as soon as they had the idea, and quickly designed and cut the play field, all the while hoping they could sell management on the idea. Mgmt. said "no" , but the play fields were already cut and inked. It's just a guess.

#10544 2 years ago

How do I turn down, or turn off, the sound....

for that screaming skeleton in the DMD? I need earplugs when that skeleton screams. And I don't have my sound turned up hardly at all. It is the only thing I do not like about GB.

Thanks

#10551 2 years ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Its just a scare feature, you turn that off on the menu

Thank you !

Quoted from Utesichiban:

I love it. Why turn it off?

It's too loud. Wakes up the whole house. Now that Wolfcub has helped me out, I can turn it on for a pinball party, but for me, by myself, I don't need it.

There is one other thing I would like to change but it is probably not possible. For the extra ball, all I need is the voice to say "extra ball" and let me get back to the game. After about 5 times I got tired of watching the Slimer and Ecto-1 do a head on collision.

#10556 2 years ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

You can blow off the animations by double flipping.

Dude ! That works wonders. I am going to have to give you and Wolfcub each a big wet, sloppy kiss for the solutions to my issues.

Next up is to get a pair of those Swinks extended ramp multiplier brackets.

#10564 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey folks - i've got a Cliffy repair issue on the right bucket/scoop. It's bent a little upwards in the lest bottom corner, and i think needs to be bent back into shape.
I asked the original owner who did the Cliffy install, but it was so long ago, he didn't quite remember what installing this entailed, but he did say he thought it installed from the top.
Anyone have any general guidance to get access to this? I'd also want something to help secure it better to the board, so this doesn't happen again anytime soon. Maybe that's not really necessary
Pic attached. thanks in advance
[quoted image]

Mine looks just like yours with that turned up corner. But I can see inside the protector while standing at the flipper buttons.

1) It is not broken. The corner has just turned up.

2) It is not all that noticeable.

3) It does not effect ball travel. At all.

4) I'm not going to worry about it until it breaks. Which might be never.

#10569 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

I'm not sure how to get to this scoop, without taking alot of parts off

I don't know if you have a Pro or a Premium, but looking at my Premium, there are 2 screws behind the scoop that attach the protector to the play field.

All I see are two screws sitting behind the scoop. I did not see anything under the play field that looks like it needs to be removed.

I think all you have to do is remove that right hand plastic. All I can see holding the plastic down are one screw and one six-sided spacer but I am not confident that this is all you will find to remove that plastic. I just cannot see the plastic as too difficult to remove because a rubber ring lives underneath it.

Mine is not bothering anything game play wise. I'll wait until I replace the rubber rings before I worry about mine.

#10572 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Interesting, I should say yeah, it doesn't seem to affect ball travel at all too...I should just leave it I guess...so you're is bent up too? You mind sharing a pic? Mine's a premium
I see the two black screws the connects the cliffy but to get to that, I think I need to remove this whole top layer, and light, and whatever else is in the way? So far its the arrows at the top I'm seeing that I would need to take off to get to it.
[quoted image]

I think the 2 arrows in vertical position pointing up might be all you need to remove. The 3rd arrow pointing horizontally can be left alone. That small plastic is mounted to a bracket that is riveted to the plastic; Let it be.

The protector, besides being locked down with two screws, is held in position on 3 sides by bent metal angle. You can see the forward bent angle and if you look carefully, it is not broken. Munsters has a similar protector and this bent angle completely broke off of my Munsters; That protector worked perfectly so I never worried about replacing it.

This protector is in good shape and solid. I'm thinking yours probably is, as well. You can run your finger on all three sides to feel for any cracks at the bend areas.

Not the best pic, but you can see the bent angle inside the hole is intact.

IMG_8999 (resized).jpgIMG_8999 (resized).jpg

The picture makes it look worse than it is. I do not notice it while playing and nobody else will probably notice if I don't point it out. The game plays fine. The scoop snatches the ball without fail. If the protector breaks, then I will worry about it.

IMG_9002 (resized).jpgIMG_9002 (resized).jpg

So, now the question is: Why is this corner curling up? My upper scoop protector is sitting flush. I have my theory---and that is all it is; But something is causing the problem.

On mine, the protector does not match the hole cutout. The internal measurement of the scoop hole looks to be smaller than the inside edge of the protector. It is hard to explain but try to imagine the metal protector being bent/formed into proper measurements. But then the scoop hole is cut too small. When the scoop is installed, the too small hole forces the bent angle out of proper position.

I can stand directly over the top of the scoop hole with a flashlight and look down inside and see the hole is too small and that one bent angle is not nested tightly against the side of the hole. It is being pushed out and the bottom of the bent angle, for lack of a better term, is sticking out in the air, so to speak. I can reach down and feel that the angle is not nested properly.

With what I am seeing, my thoughts are that with what I just described would have the action of puling l the protector tighter to the play field instead of having a corner to turn up. But it does turn up; I don't have an answer.

Which leads to the question: How do you fix it?

1) A Cliffy may fix me up, but if it is the same measurements as the factory unit I think I would have the same problem with a Cliffy. That's just a thought.

or

2) If I ever need to fix this, I would remove the protector, and anything thing else that might be in the way. Then I would straighten out the protector to blueprint specs. Then I would get my Dremel with a sanding drum and my files and enlarge the scoop hole so the protector can sit in properly. And then put it all back together.

Good luck whichever way you decide.

I'm gonna keep playing mine and not worry about it.

#10575 2 years ago

When I Brough GB home I noticed a defect in the cab. I figured my cab might be the one and only, but then I watched Todd Tuckey's GB video and his cab was just like mine. So, that makes two.

Whoever cut the front stencil for the cab did not get their measurements correct. They obviously did not do a "first parts check" and just blasted on. Who knows how many defective decals Stern used? This was not a cheap mistake to correct.

Do you see the bad cutout around the shooter mounting assembly? The decal maker was not even close to cutting this decal correctly. And Stern passed it on.

What does your GB look like? Pro or Premium? Or worse yet, did the same decal maker make the same mistake on the LE's ?

( apologies. I got my ghostly self in the pic by accident ).

IMG_9005 (resized).JPGIMG_9005 (resized).JPG

#10579 2 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

Don't really care. I don't stare at the front of my game. I PLAY IT

Exactly what Stern was counting on

#10582 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

That gap is likely on purpose. The shooter housing is adjusted so the shooter rod lands on the center of the ball when resting in the shooter lane. It can move up/down, left/right 1/4” to account for manufacturing differences. The gap is so the shooter housing doesn’t overlap the decal at the extremes of adjustment and wrinkle it.

My Munsters LE was not this way. I have a friend with EHOH, Beatles, Deadpool, Batman 66, Spiderman, Stranger Things and a couple of other later Sterns.

None of his are this way.

Stern could have done what you say for adjustments, but the cut in the decal could have at least been centered instead of being off on just one side. Can you imagine if the base cabinet color would have been red and not black? Everybody would have been in a uproar.

#10585 2 years ago
Quoted from blizz81:

My STh has some wiggle room in the cutout. When you take a pic unless you’re at a perfect angle it might not appear centered in the pic, so maybe not entirely helpful to swap pics.
[quoted image]

Yours is centered. Here is another pic of mine. It is not even close.

In the great scheme of things, it is no big deal. It is just a decal; And I am bored with nothing better to do But it does say something about quality and attention to detail.

If anybody bought a set of decals to restore an old pin and the machine cuts were this far off, they would be wanting their money back.

IMG_9007 (resized).JPGIMG_9007 (resized).JPG

#10590 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

cottonm4, you could make a 3D bezel or a sticker to cover that if you really wanted and they'd likely sell.

No need.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

You are missing the point. You can't center the cutout on an adjustable piece. Sometimes the adjustable piece needs to be adjusted to one extreme or another (like yours apparently). That is why they made the adjustment range the size they did.
For whatever reason, your shooter rod needed to be adjusted way to the left. Mine it right in the center. It is right in the center of your friends games.
Maybe the shooter lane cutout on your playfield is 1/4" to the left. Maybe your shooter rod isn't hitting the ball in the center and needs to be moved to the right.

Thanks.

I should have known better. I did not think about adjustability. 5 screws were loosened and I slid the shooter housing to the right about 1/4". And now I am centered. However, the shooter is sitting a little low on the ball and no provisions were made to be able to raise the shooter upwards. But the ball launches in fine form. I will leave it be.

#10592 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I think the 2 arrows in vertical position pointing up might be all you need to remove. The 3rd arrow pointing horizontally can be left alone. That small plastic is mounted to a bracket that is riveted to the plastic; Let it be.
The protector, besides being locked down with two screws, is held in position on 3 sides by bent metal angle. You can see the forward bent angle and if you look carefully, it is not broken. Munsters has a similar protector and this bent angle completely broke off of my Munsters; That protector worked perfectly so I never worried about replacing it.
This protector is in good shape and solid. I'm thinking yours probably is, as well. You can run your finger on all three sides to feel for any cracks at the bend areas.
Not the best pic, but you can see the bent angle inside the hole is intact.
[quoted image]
The picture makes it look worse than it is. I do not notice it while playing and nobody else will probably notice if I don't point it out. The game plays fine. The scoop snatches the ball without fail. If the protector breaks, then I will worry about it.
[quoted image]
So, now the question is: Why is this corner curling up? My upper scoop protector is sitting flush. I have my theory---and that is all it is; But something is causing the problem.
On mine, the protector does not match the hole cutout. The internal measurement of the scoop hole looks to be smaller than the inside edge of the protector. It is hard to explain but try to imagine the metal protector being bent/formed into proper measurements. But then the scoop hole is cut too small. When the scoop is installed, the too small hole forces the bent angle out of proper position.
I can stand directly over the top of the scoop hole with a flashlight and look down inside and see the hole is too small and that one bent angle is not nested tightly against the side of the hole. It is being pushed out and the bottom of the bent angle, for lack of a better term, is sticking out in the air, so to speak. I can reach down and feel that the angle is not nested properly.
With what I am seeing, my thoughts are that with what I just described would have the action of puling l the protector tighter to the play field instead of having a corner to turn up. But it does turn up; I don't have an answer.
Which leads to the question: How do you fix it?
1) A Cliffy may fix me up, but if it is the same measurements as the factory unit I think I would have the same problem with a Cliffy. That's just a thought.
or
2) If I ever need to fix this, I would remove the protector, and anything thing else that might be in the way. Then I would straighten out the protector to blueprint specs. Then I would get my Dremel with a sanding drum and my files and enlarge the scoop hole so the protector can sit in properly. And then put it all back together.
Good luck whichever way you decide.
I'm gonna keep playing mine and not worry about it.

My curiosity got the better of me. Getting to the lower scoop Cliffy is not hard.

Here we go.

The right ramp that travels across the play field is attached with one screw and one nut (Caution: The #4 Phillips screw in my ramp was over-torqued and my screwdriver chewed up the Phillips slots. I had to drill out the screw head. Then I had to drill into the broken screw and pull the threaded shank out with an EZ out. Hopefully, you won't have to deal with this).

On the other end of the ramp at the left sling you need to remove the locknut and then the ramp wire will be loose; Leave the wire that is attached to the ramp wire alone and be gentle as you lay the ramp down on the play field. You may want to lay down towel to use as a cushion.

IMG_9031 (resized).jpgIMG_9031 (resized).jpg

IMG_9025 (resized).jpgIMG_9025 (resized).jpg

With the ramp wire removed you can remove the nut that sits below the ramp.

IMG_9031 (resized).jpgIMG_9031 (resized).jpg

Next, remove the spot light. The spot light is attached to the stand-off with a small tie-wrap; you need to cut the tie wrap and then move the spotlight out of the way. Then remove the stand-off that the spotlight mounts to. Also remove the stand-off that you unscrewed the ramp wire from.

Next, remove the screw that attaches the exit point of the plastic ramp that drops the ball on to the right hand inlane.

IMG_9034 (resized).jpgIMG_9034 (resized).jpg

Then remove the screw that attaches the storage facility to the right rail.

IMG_9032 (resized).jpgIMG_9032 (resized).jpg

By now, you should have removed the ramp wire and the nut and two stand-offs that hold the plastic in place. You will also have removed the screw that attaches the storage facility to the rail. And you will have removed the screw that attaches the plastic exit ramp.

If you have done everything correctly, the plastic should be loose, although you may have to tug on it a little bit to lift it off of the threaded stud it still sits on. Pull the plastic up gently and pull it toward the center of the play field JUST A LITTLE BIT.

Next you need to pull up on the plastic inlane drop ramp. Just a little pull and now you can slide the plastic out from under the plastic ramp and lay it on the play field.

SIDEBAR: You do not need to unplug any wires or connectors. The ramp wire and play field plastic will lay neatly on the play field. And other than the small uplift you give to the the plastic inlane ramp, you do not have to force anything. Remove the screws and it pretty much falls apart in your hands.

Ghostbusters play field is hard to photograph with its many colors. Here is the plastic pulled free. And just under my left thumb you can see where I placed the spotlight to get it out of the way.

IMG_9013 (resized).jpgIMG_9013 (resized).jpg

And with the plastic out of the way, you can see the two screws that attach the protector to the play field. The black cable is for the spotlight and sitting underneath is one end of the rubber ring. The steps I described above are the same steps you use to replace this rubber.

IMG_9019 (resized).jpgIMG_9019 (resized).jpg

this is looking down inside the hole. It is hard to see but if you look carefully you can see the bent-over tab on the protector is sticking out a little bit. So, what I need to do (when I get the time) is remove the VUK and the scoop that comes out from the lower side of the play field. Wit the hole opened up for access I will get the Dremel Tool and drum sander and sand excess wood from the hole, straighten up my protector, or get a Cliffy, and put is all back together.

IMG_9011 (resized).jpgIMG_9011 (resized).jpg

I hope this helps out.

1 week later
#10628 2 years ago

Premium or LE owners: I have question regarding the magnetic sling shots own my Premium. When I was playing the GB at the Denver pin Showdown, that magnetic sling kicked on and weirded the ball out; I think at the point I was hooked and decided I was going to get a GB.

But, I don't know if mine are working correctly and I don't know how to troubleshoot them.

On my Premium, the small triangle lights light up in front of the right hand sling and then, more than likely, I am going to be witnessing some crazy action with the magnets playing with the ball movement.

IMG_9040 (resized).JPGIMG_9040 (resized).JPG

But I only notice this magnet action happening on the right hand sling. My left hand sling magnets will kick in a little bit during a multi-ball session.

Keeping in mind that even the right hand side does not go overboard with magnetic action, is this very minor amount of magnet action on the left sling normal? Or should it be more active to match the right side action?

I am sorry for the awkward question, but if you have a Premium or LE, I hope you can understand what I am trying to ask.

#10629 2 years ago

Help.

Both of my Scolari Brothers drop targets have quit working. It is not the springs. This feels like some sort of electronic issue. Either the drops will not raise up or if they do raise up then 2 seconds later they fall back down.

I am lost in the weeds on this.

Is there a dedicated troubleshooting website for Ghostbusters?

Would it do any good to contact Stern regarding issues on a 5 year old pin?

Thanks.

#10633 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Make sure they are turned on in settings !

Yes. They have been turned on since I brought it home. They have been working fine. Working fine all day long. And then the right target would not raise up.

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Make sure the tabs are not broken on the targets are severely worn, are the plugs completely on or loose causing intermittent connection? Start looking for broken wires.

I had the play field opened up. Mechanically, everything is looking good. Nothing appears to be broken. I do not see any broken wires.

With the play field up, I manually operated the Scolari drops. Mechanically, they work fine.

So, I lower the play field and credit up a game. Both targets raise up and stay put. I start playing. And then I knock down the right target. A bit later I knock down the left target. I continue to play but the targets do not raise back up.

And then, all of a sudden, both targets pop up, and then 2 seconds later, they drop down again. And they are still down.

As noted, mechanically, the targets work fine. And I see not any broken wires.

I'm dreading that something has gone bad inside the brain box.

#10635 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Seems like you have a mis adjusted switch, what I mean is that when you are in "Test" mode it works fine, then when you play a game, due to vibrations and oother factors, the switch has erratic behaviors causing it to triggers the targets to drop and simulate closure/open

No. I did not go into "test" mode. And the only 2 switches I see are those units I think are called "optos".

The problem is not with getting the drop targets to drop. They drop fine. But whatever is signaling them to raise back up is not doing the job. So, they are in the "stuck down" position and will not raise back up.

As strange as it sounds, I am trying to remember how they did work, or are supposed to work. My mind is telling me that as soon as I start a game, those 2 drops are supposed to raise up and be ready for play action. But this is what they are not doing. They just stay down. I don't know what signals them to raise up.

#10637 2 years ago
Quoted from Riefepeters:

The scolari bro targets only raise when it’s time to kick som bro butt - like hitting the captive ball for symmetrical book stacking twice, first to start a hurry up and second time before hurry up ends.

Thank you. That helped my understanding a little bit. I still have my problem.

I can manually activate the captive ball switch and the drops will raise. But if I knock the drops back down, the captive switch will not work a 2nd time until something else happens on the play field---and I don't know what that something is. Once I hit whatever it is on the play field, the captive ball switch will raise the drops. But I cannot knock the drops down and then expect to raise them back up with the captive ball switch. Something else has to happen for the captive ball switch to work the drops again.

Anyway, here is a 1 minute 27 second video I made showing my problem.

1) I have manually raised the drop targets to show that they do raise up and, more important, they stay up.

2) Now I turn the pin on and wait for startup. Both targets are still in raised position, suggesting that mechanically, all is as it should be.

3) As soon as the pin turns on, the drop targets drop.

4) I credit a game, but the drop targets do not raise back up ( I am used to crediting a game and immediately seeing the drops in raised position that I need to hit to get them out of my way so I can shoot the right orbit. That is not happening now. I am shooting to a wide open play field).

5) I swing the camera around and reach to activate the captive ball switch. Both drops raise up as they should. But......

6) The right hand drop target will not stay up. Here is one thing with the drops that I know is supposed to happen. When a drop is dropped, you have 10 seconds to knock the 2nd drop down or the 1st drop will pop back up.

It looks like both drop target assemblies are the same. I may try swapping them and see if the problem follows the drop target or stays with the right hand position.

This is what you are seeing trying to happen at the 10 second mark. The right hand drop target raises up, as it is supposed to, but it is immediately being sucked back down. 10 seconds later it pops back up and immediately drops. I think I could lever the pin in this condition, leave the house for 2 hours and this action would still be happening when I returned.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

#10639 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxIsDead:

The lip that those catch on to stay up is delicate and tricky. I bet it's just been worn enough to not be reliable. I'd try replacing it

OK. But why does the target stay up when I raise it manually and only drops down after I turn the pin on?

Are these lips something that replacements can be bought?

#10641 2 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The target is supposed to drop on pin start up or if a ball drains during gameplay, that is normal.

Thank you.

I'm going to swap the drops and see if the problem follows.

EDIT: I made the swap and the problem follows the drop target. I see the locking lips for the drop target but they look OK. I'm going to have to pull the drop assembly and get it on the bench.

I'll be back with either more problems or with the solution.

#10643 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Thank you.
I'm going to swap the drops and see if the problem follows.
EDIT: I made the swap and the problem follows the drop target. I see the locking lips for the drop target but they look OK. I'm going to have to pull the drop assembly and get it on the bench.
I'll be back with either more problems or with the solution.

I found the problem. The little lip that screws to the bracket is broken. Unfortunately, It does not seem to be playing nice with the super glue.

IMG_9050 (resized).JPGIMG_9050 (resized).JPG

IMG_9053 (resized).JPGIMG_9053 (resized).JPG

So, where can I buy one of these little fuckers at?

I suppose Stern would want me to buy the entire assembly. And that is assuming Stern is still even suppling the parts.

#10646 2 years ago

Unbelievable. Stern supplies them. Looks like I am going to, once again, do my part to keep the post office cash registers ringing.

Thank you, both.

Just so you don't think I am the voice of good cheer , I also have clear coat chipping. This I can fix, but another PIA.

IMG_9060 (resized).JPGIMG_9060 (resized).JPG

#10649 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

That does not look like clear chipping, that looks more like the edge being damaged because the drop down target might be sitting 1mm too low.
Have you tried adjusting the height of it? Is it flush with the pf?

Both drops sit flush with play field when down. They sat flush before I swapped them and the both sit flush now. But, yes, it looks like the drop is dragging and pulling clear away when it raises up.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Pin_Fandango is right, if your drop is flush with the pf when down, you should avoid that. You can also add a drop target Cliffy like this. [quoted image]

I might look into this. Thanks.

#10650 2 years ago

I was working on another project for GB when my drop target broke. This pin demands good lighting for when the play field goes dark during Loopins. Playing with a pedestal work lamp at the side of the cabinet doesn't cut it.

So, I spent a little bit of time on the "poor mans' Stadium lighting" system. My parts from Amazon arrived yesterday. Tomorrow, if all goes according to plan, I will be installing some stadium lighting for GB.

It took about and hour to build the LED rails. I am waiting for the Gorilla Glue to set up and tomorrow I should be playing with it all lit up. These LED rails were super easy to build.

IMG_9062 (resized).JPGIMG_9062 (resized).JPG

Here is the link

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting

Inside the link, was another link that took me to youtube for Hurry Up Pinball's instructions on how to build.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hurryuppinball+-+how+to+build+playfield+lights

I could not find his reference for what parts are needed, but I figured out what parts to buy---and not buy.

If anybody wants the Amazon shopping list, let me know and I will put up what parts are needed.

#10654 2 years ago
Quoted from camcamaro1991:

I told you in post #10632 and provided a link to them! You kept going on and on and asking & posting.
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink.
FML!!!

I'm very sorry. Somehow I missed your post. No offense was intended.

FML is an acronym I have not seen before. I don't understand.

#10661 2 years ago

The topper I would like to have. You will need to use your imagination. It will never happen.....but you never know until you start asking around.

This is a 20" shelf made of resin.

Screen Shot 2022-02-21 at 8.54.07 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-02-21 at 8.54.07 PM (resized).png

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1957-bel-air-chevy-3d-replica-car-471666542
===================================

This is a stylized metal sign measuring 24 inches across

Screen Shot 2022-02-21 at 8.55.34 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-02-21 at 8.55.34 PM (resized).png

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1957-bel-air-chevy-3d-replica-car-471666542
=========================================

And an non-stylized metal sign of unknown size.

f7d5d1c23d86493be3b61d234f85a227a5c928fd (resized).pngf7d5d1c23d86493be3b61d234f85a227a5c928fd (resized).png

https://www.calcarcover.com/product/classic-chevy-front-end-black-metal-sign-rg7564/4706
=================================

I would prefer the shelf made of resin, but would be happy for a stamped metal sign for a topper that looks like this.

(here is where you use your imagination )

Give me a bigger than life '59 Caddy front end to stare down at me as I play.

c0b7ee905a76a207c9213bf0fc78a573efb15ae2 (resized).jpgc0b7ee905a76a207c9213bf0fc78a573efb15ae2 (resized).jpg

#10662 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Played a round in honor of Ivan Reitman
RIP
[quoted image]

b4c3331e8d02a513c3bc1c7331b5f265ac1779b9 (resized).jpgb4c3331e8d02a513c3bc1c7331b5f265ac1779b9 (resized).jpg

Quoted from DanTheMan:

I probably missed it in the 213 pages of posts, but where’d you get those streams? Freaking awesome.

Would this LED Neon Strip lighting work to make those streams?

https://www.birddogdistributing.com/hot-pink-mini-led-neon-strip-light-12-volt-16-4-feet/

NSMD-12V-5HP-adobe-graphic__01473.1612382972 (resized).jpgNSMD-12V-5HP-adobe-graphic__01473.1612382972 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#10670 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I was working on another project for GB when my drop target broke. This pin demands good lighting for when the play field goes dark during Loopins. Playing with a pedestal work lamp at the side of the cabinet doesn't cut it.
So, I spent a little bit of time on the "poor mans' Stadium lighting" system. My parts from Amazon arrived yesterday. Tomorrow, if all goes according to plan, I will be installing some stadium lighting for GB.
It took about and hour to build the LED rails. I am waiting for the Gorilla Glue to set up and tomorrow I should be playing with it all lit up. These LED rails were super easy to build.
[quoted image]
Here is the link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting
Inside the link, was another link that took me to youtube for Hurry Up Pinball's instructions on how to build.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hurryuppinball+-+how+to+build+playfield+lights
I could not find his reference for what parts are needed, but I figured out what parts to buy---and not buy.
If anybody wants the Amazon shopping list, let me know and I will put up what parts are needed.

I finally got my stadium lights competed. GB definitely benefits from having the play field lit up. If I don't count my experience curve screwups that cost me around $25.00, making this mod cost around $70.00.

They were not hard to build and with the correct parts you don't even need to do any soldering.

These links led me to the youtube video showing how it is done. I did not try to get fancy with flashers and such. I worked on just keeping it simple.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting#post-4153578

This is HurryUpPinball's YT video. There was no information on what parts he used from Amazon. It took me about an hour to locate all of the needed parts on Amazon. If anybody is interested, let me know. I can save you some time in trying to figure out what to buy.

There are also other parts list in the above link. I just tried to keep it simple and follow HurryUp's movie.

Here are some comparison pics. You have all seen these kinds of lights so there is nothing new here to see.

This is factory stock. With no stadium lights.

IMG_9115 (resized).JPGIMG_9115 (resized).JPG

This is combo of yellow and white lighting.

I like this color combo the best. It gives nice even light;This makes it mush easier to play Storage Facility Multiball with all of its blinking lights going off.

IMG_9079 (resized).jpgIMG_9079 (resized).jpg

Red and white light is also easy to play with. But I prefer the yellow/white LED combination.

IMG_9082 (resized).jpgIMG_9082 (resized).jpg

Blue and white is not bad, but...

IMG_9083 (resized).jpgIMG_9083 (resized).jpg

Anyway, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, this is a worthwhile upgrade, IMO.

#10674 2 years ago
Quoted from HeadNZ:

UPDATE / FIX
So it turned out a connection from the Scoleri Bro loom to node board had worked loose. Quick push and all is good. Thanks for the tips re checking connections.

Thanks for posting the solution.

#10675 2 years ago

What just happened to my Ghostbusters?

I just finished playing and game and was invited to add a new high score of 105,000,??? when my high score was 2.5 billion.

And then when the credits started rolling, ALL of my high scores were gone only to be replaced by some high scores the previous owner and his friends put on.

What happened to all my high scores?

I'll get them back eventually, but where did they go and then leave me looking at high scores that could have been set on the first day the pin was out of the box?

#10678 2 years ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

HSTD (High Score To Date) tables can be automatically reset every 1000/2000 games by default. There is a setting to adjust this. Most likely, the the tables were reset and the high scores you see now are the defaults.

Thank you. Is there a way I can delete them all and just start from scratch?

#10680 2 years ago

I don't know what a default high score is.

This is the previous owner's initial and high score. It was not reset.

IMG_9122 (resized).jpgIMG_9122 (resized).jpg

These are my new high scores #1 thru #4. My 4 high scores used to be in the 2.5 million range.

IMG_9129 (resized).jpgIMG_9129 (resized).jpgIMG_9127 (resized).jpgIMG_9127 (resized).jpgIMG_9125 (resized).jpgIMG_9125 (resized).jpgIMG_9123 (resized).jpgIMG_9123 (resized).jpg

For Gozer Champion, I had the high score. The previous owners BAA initials were here until I bested his score. I never saw GOZ until now. GOZ had to be a friend of his.

IMG_9131 (resized).jpgIMG_9131 (resized).jpg
It took me awhile to become Terror Dog champion. I don't remember my T-DOG score but I don't think it was changed.

IMG_9132 (resized).jpgIMG_9132 (resized).jpg

Loopin Super champ used to be BAA with 8 loops. I have no idea who ROB and his 7 loops are.

IMG_9135 (resized).jpgIMG_9135 (resized).jpg

I was Storage Facility Champ with more points than this. This must be my new score from the 2 games I played after most of my scores were erased.

IMG_9137 (resized).jpgIMG_9137 (resized).jpg

Mass Hysteria Champ was previous owner BAA's initials. I had not beat his MHC score yet. And never saw the MXV initials until now.

IMG_9138 (resized).jpgIMG_9138 (resized).jpg

The Are you a God Champ numbers with KME is unchanged.

IMG_9139 (resized).jpgIMG_9139 (resized).jpg

So, some were reset and a few were not.

Quoted from mrm_4:

Battery probably died

Is that the quarter sized battery on the circuit board in the back box?

#10682 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yep!
But like what was mentioned before if the plays hit 1000 or 2000 it might have automatically reset. Check the clock and date. If those reset back to 2016 then it’s the battery.

Clock says 2015. I'm off to Walmart to buy a battery.

Can I just remove the battery that is still there and make ALL of the scores disappear?

#10685 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

You can easily reset them in utilities to clean them up.

I just figured out the menu. I can reset Grand Champion. So now, instead of me having to choke on the previous owner's 8 billion high score, I am now the Grand Champion with 200,000.000 points. Be nice if life could be done over with a reset button

There is also a function for resetting high scores but as much as I push the reset button, those high scores will not go away. I'm thinking they should disappear but they are stubborn.

#10686 2 years ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

(KME = Keith Elwin; MXV = Mike Vinikour; GOZ = Gozer (I think); ZYT = I'm not sure)

That explains it, I'm guessing.

So, Stern sends these out with employees high scores? Interesting.

Anyway, it does not matter all that much. It is a great game.

#10691 2 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Wouldn't just reupdating the code reset everything?

I cannot answer that.

#10709 2 years ago
Quoted from MacGruber:

battery has nothing to do with scores on here

What is the purpose of the battery? I played my GB without the battery for one game when I figured out my battery was bad; The game played fine. So, if the battery is not for maintaining high scores, what is its purpose?

#10710 2 years ago

Way in the back, on the back wall above the P-K-E rollovers is a piece of semi-circle piece of clear plastic. It looks like a magazine rack; Like something is supposed to be sitting there. What is it for?

It is hard to photograph. Here you can see its top edge if you look at it long enough.

I can't see Stern spending money on something that was not needed. But here it sits. It has 2 brackets riveted on and is attached to the back wall with 2 screws.

What is it?

IMG_9149 (resized).jpgIMG_9149 (resized).jpg

#10713 2 years ago
Quoted from Bam_Man:

There's been a few mods made that add a mirror there to amplify the effect more.

Who is selling this mirror, please?

#10716 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Got mine from LSOG a long time ago! This one is pink mirror.[quoted image]

This mirror just sits in a nest in between the Stern plastic and the back wall? That's all it is?

I don't know LSOG.

#10719 2 years ago

OK. Thanks.

The previous owner has already installed the Mezel Mod unit. It is nice, but I cannot see where the ball is. This mirror looks like it will solve that problem.

-1
#10723 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

it's random and sometimes may take 5-10 games to go off - super loud scream with the DMD image and same as BlakeWI it normally triggers off the left scoop
my first time it went off the kids were in bed and scared the crap out of them lol

I was getting my ear drums blown out. One other nice thing about turning the scare feature off is that constant grandfather clock gonging sound on the half-hour and one-hour went away as well.

#10727 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I thought this was from Midnight Madness being turned on.

You could be right. I think I turned off MM as well. MM is for company. Storage Facility Multi-ball does it for me.

#10730 2 years ago
Quoted from tasman:

My pro does not keep time , I set it and turn the machine off and when I turn it back on goes back to 2015 (new battery) . can some one take a picture of the battery orientation
Thanks

That battery has an inner half and an outer half. The inner half points to the right hand side of the pin; It is the side you can see when the battery is installed. If this is confusing I can take a picture and post it.

#10732 2 years ago
Quoted from tasman:

So the + SIDE GOES TO THE LEFT SIDE

Yes.

#10741 2 years ago
Quoted from Spiderwolf:

I have probably played twenty games on it since I got it and have not heard a thing. I also heard if you just leave the game on versus turning it off when you are done that it will also go off randomly. I left mine on for two days and nothing so I’m confused why mine isn’t working. The previous owner told me about this feature and it worked for him so what’s going on?

Push the black button to go in to the Service Menu

IMG_9169 (resized).JPGIMG_9169 (resized).JPG

Then push the right hand red button Volume + and scroll over to the ADJ Adjustments menu

IMG_9153 (resized).jpgIMG_9153 (resized).jpg

Push the black button to enter the ADJ menu.

Push the Volume + button to go to #32. Midnight Madness. Turn this on to say "Yes" for Midnight Madness to start sounding like a grandfather clock gonging on the hour and on the half hour. I got tired of the noise and turned MM off ( depends on how much you value MM play. For me, MM is newbie fodder.).

IMG_9154 (resized).jpgIMG_9154 (resized).jpg

Then scroll on to #35 for the Scare Feature. If you want your eardrums blown out then turn #35 on. If you like it quiet then turn #35 off.

IMG_9160 (resized).jpgIMG_9160 (resized).jpg

Once you have made your adjustments, then press the green credit button to back out of the Service Menu and start playing.

#10759 2 years ago
Quoted from AtTheArcade:

Hey All!
Times are tough for my family right now so I'm finally going to have to part with my beloved dream theme pin. I have the LE model with ColorDMD, side blades, shaker motor (that wasn't standard though wasn't it...I can't remember at this point), and a 2017 playfield replacement since I was one of the unlucky ones with ghosting inserts. I browsed the market but didn't see many sold LE's with an actual sold price listed. I was wondering what you guys think one could sell for.
Also, I have the topper as well and was thinking of selling that separate. I heard they go for crazy amounts these days but I don't see an recent sold prices for that either. Any ideas?
It sucks that I won't be in the club anymore but I hope to join again when things get back on track!

Here are the Ghostbusters that have been advertised on Pinside. Some were sold. Some were not. For some reason the GB Premiums and LEs are listed in the same search so you need to make sure which ones are which. Make sure yo loo0k at the dates of the ads.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&radius_latitude=37.675&radius_longitude=-97.32&keywords=ghostbusters+le&ad_condition=0&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=&year_to=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_end_date&sort_order=DESC#results

A search for sold toppers did not bring up anything, but the GB toppers are big bucks. Don't let anybody shark you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds?s=1&keywords=topper&ad_what%5B%5D=parts&ad_what%5B%5D=mod&ad_what%5B%5D=other&ad_wantedforsale%5B%5D=forsale&ad_wantedforsale%5B%5D=wanted&min_price=0&max_price=50000&pinsider=&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=1931&year_to=2022&ad_condition=0&ad_countrycodes=&ad_states=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_time_placed&sort_order=DESC#results

#10764 2 years ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

You are the man! Adjusted switch with needlenose and works great again! Thanks so much!

Thanks for posting the solution.

#10772 2 years ago
Quoted from tasman:

Why are my black rubber breaking so soon? replaced some rubbers about three month ago and four have already broken. machine get played about 25 games a month. Sometimes it wont be played for a couple of week and I will go to play and some rubbers will be laying there broken. Yes I have the correct rubbers in place .

I am not having any problems with rubbers breaking and I am playing every day. Possibly you got some defective rubbers on your last buy ?

Is it the same rubbers that are breaking or is it random? And the four that you replaced are now broken, too? Or is it a different four?

#10777 2 years ago

I found my topper. I still have to make the brackets to mount it with. And come up with some sort of lighting.

I figured it fits with the theme.

IMG_9316 (resized).jpgIMG_9316 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#10839 1 year ago

I'd go with the power supply if you are going to add a lot of electrical doodads. It provides separate power and keeps your pinball machine from possibly having problems with added electronics.

This:

"This Pinball Life Accessory Power Supply for Stern SPIKE system machines (see compatibility list below) is used to safely supply 12vdc and 5vdc power to all of your mods. This supply is strong and safe enough to support under-cabinet lighting alongside other mods on your SPIKE pinball machine. The power supply is fused on both the input and output side providing clean and safe accessory power. "

#10845 1 year ago

I got tired of looking at the open top locknuts on the play field.

IMG_9638 (resized).jpgIMG_9638 (resized).jpg

And replaced them with some stainless steel cap nuts. These look prettier, but they are not locknuts. I'm not interested in installing lock washers but I think these will stay tightened OK.

IMG_9641 (resized).jpgIMG_9641 (resized).jpg

IMG_9643 (resized).jpgIMG_9643 (resized).jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JHYZ3FW

#10846 1 year ago

Does anyone know where these blue "rebound blades?" can be bought? These look like they are going to be a high wear item.

Thanks.

IMG_9644 (resized).jpgIMG_9644 (resized).jpg

IMG_9645 (resized).jpgIMG_9645 (resized).jpg

#10849 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

You could try anodized lock nuts or acorn nuts too. They add some color. Mezel Mods
[quoted image]

They are nice but at 80 cents each I am out.

#10851 1 year ago

Thank you.

Quoted from PeterG:

These look fine, Just clean them.

I'm thinking long term of what to stock up on that might not be available someday.

#10855 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Nah those are generic parts, dont expect those to be unobtainable. Also I never changed that part in over 7 years in this hobby owning 8 machines.

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Agreed, these hardly ever wear out in a home environment. Just wipe them off.

Quoted from Ballderdash:

A little rubbing alcohol cleans them right up.

Thanks. I'll save my money.

2 weeks later
#10861 1 year ago
Quoted from BentleyBear:

Looks like i need a splitter for CN14 so i can connect both boards (real knocker board and the power supply mod board)
Any tips ?
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you bought a knocker kit you should have received everything you need to make the installation. Without having to buy anything extra. It was a simple install. The hardest part was figuring out with what kind of precision you want to use for installing the knocker plate. Answer: It does not have to be precise.

2 weeks later
#10867 1 year ago

My right hand Scoleri Brothers drop target only works occasionally. The left side works fine. The right side will standup just every once in a while. I swapped the left hand and right hand Optos with each other and see no change, so it is not the Optos.

Any ideas where to look for this intermittent problem? Could it be something with the solenoid coil?

Thanks.

#10870 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

in the menu do they operate?
do they try to operate but just are not staying up? - if so could the plastic ledges in the mech

The left unit operates as it should. The right unit works sporadically.

When the right drop works, the drop target gets activated to the up position and stays there until I hit it with the ball. IOW, when it works it works 100% but it only works about 5% of the time. But most of the time it just stays down in it hole and does not come up at all.

I'm leaning towards thinking it is electrical and not mechanical. Tomorrow I will swap the left and right drops and see if the problem follows the drop.

Quoted from Enaud:

These two posts solved the same problem I was having. Take a look at your Scoleri's and apply these fixes.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/213#post-6788784
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/213#post-6788794
If you find that the plastic drop target rest ledge is broken, you can get replacements at Marco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=545-6163-01

That was me having the problem with the broken ledge. I got that fixed.

#10872 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The left unit operates as it should. The right unit works sporadically.
When the right drop works, the drop target gets activated to the up position and stays there until I hit it with the ball. IOW, when it works it works 100% but it only works about 5% of the time. But most of the time it just stays down in it hole and does not come up at all.
I'm leaning towards thinking it is electrical and not mechanical. Tomorrow I will swap the left and right drops and see if the problem follows the drop.

OK. I swapped the Scolari Brothers targets. Right is now the left and visa versa. The problem follows the drop target itself. It looks good mechanically. but I don't know. I am going to have to take it apart for a closer look.

At least the problem is localized to the drop target and not something inside the control board.

To be continued...

#10874 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

That's good in a way as at least not a node board.
Is they any sensors on the mech - been a while since looked, maybe swap those and see if the problem jumps again.

I swapped the optos. The problem remains with the one drop target. As you said, it is not a node board. Just the optos that is attached to the drop assembly costs $70.00 !

#10875 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My right hand Scoleri Brothers drop target only works occasionally. The left side works fine. The right side will standup just every once in a while. I swapped the left hand and right hand Optos with each other and see no change, so it is not the Optos.
Any ideas where to look for this intermittent problem? Could it be something with the solenoid coil?
Thanks.

Quoted from swinks:

in the menu do they operate?
do they try to operate but just are not staying up? - if so could the plastic ledges in the mech

Quoted from Enaud:

These two posts solved the same problem I was having. Take a look at your Scoleri's and apply these fixes.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/213#post-6788784
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/213#post-6788794
If you find that the plastic drop target rest ledge is broken, you can get replacements at Marco.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=545-6163-01

Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. I swapped the Scolari Brothers targets. Right is now the left and visa versa. The problem follows the drop target itself. It looks good mechanically. but I don't know. I am going to have to take it apart for a closer look.
At least the problem is localized to the drop target and not something inside the control board.
To be continued...

Quoted from swinks:

That's good in a way as at least not a node board.
Is they any sensors on the mech - been a while since looked, maybe swap those and see if the problem jumps again.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I swapped the optos. The problem remains with the one drop target. As you said, it is not a node board. Just the optos that is attached to the drop assembly costs $70.00 !

I pulled the left drop target and removed each Molex pin from the connector wafer. All 4 of the connectors looked good. I also did the coil test and both drops were responsive during the testing.

It is back together now and both targets are working. So far.

It is a puzzle that I have not figured out. Hopefully both drops will keep on working.

#10878 1 year ago

OK. I have read some rules I found online. But since I brought GB home in December I have concentrated on working my ass off just to keep the ball on the play field ( I'm getting better ). I mainly shoot for whatever lights are blinking and changing colors.

I'll figure out all the rules, eventually. What I want to know is what drives the scores.

1) The right orbit skill shot sometimes is 1000 points, or maybe sometimes is 5000, or 6000, or 7000 points. There was one game that when I looked up the skill shot was worth 25,000,000. I don't know what I did for those kind of points.

2) The River Award for lots of times displays a score of 3,715,000, or 4,750,000. But one time I had a River Award of 48,000,000. I don't know how I did it.

I don't know what I did to get these scores.

Does anybody know? Or does anybody know what I need to be reading to figure this scoring out?

Thanks.

#10882 1 year ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

Each skill shot (top PKE lanes and blue arrows) award 5% of your score. Was it late in the game and you had a 500m score?

Did you have the 6x playfield multiplier running at the time?

I cannot answer those questions.

All I know is that one time, and one time only, I had a right hand orbit skill shot that rang up 25 milion and I am used to seeing 1,000 points or maybe 1500 points.

And for the River Award, one time I had 48 million points while most of the time the River Award points are rather predictable.

I wish I knew how I got these scores so I could perhaps do them again.

#10883 1 year ago

What are these two rubber bumpers that live in front of the fire station for? I cannot think of any useful purpose.

IMG_0093 (resized).JPGIMG_0093 (resized).JPG

#10890 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

I’m guessing to prevent stuck balls.

That sounds as good of a guess as any others.

1 month later
#10902 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Anyone know of a complete list of Feature adjustments for the pro? Standard are in the manual, Feature are not.
Location game near me has a Slimer that's disconnected or broken and I'm wondering if I can turn it off in software so the game will light the scenes some other way.

Quoted from SKWilson:

Slimer can be disabled in the settings. (I don't remember which as I no longer have the game.) The GHOST target takes over to light scenes.

Disable Slimer is #12 in the Features settings.

IMG_0578 (resized).JPGIMG_0578 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#10915 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Some more pics...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I see something I would like to have but shipping to the states is probably cost prohibitive.

#10917 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippinJB:

Hello all. Both flipper buttons on my GBLE have bit the dust. They both failed at once, during a game, and are not registering in switch test. So far I have…
- Tested continuity between the ground and signal wires to node 8. Seems ok.
- Swapped node 8 with Batman’s node 8. Batman’s happy with the GB node 8 – the flippers register. GB’s flippers don’t work with Batman’s node 8 either. So I don't think it's a node board issue (makes a change )
- Tried other switches which share the same ground wire – (from memory) EOS and 2 of the pop bumpers. These switches register.
- Tested the flippers in solenoid test, and they work.
I’m stumped. Has anyone got any suggestions where I should look next? Thanks in advance.

I have no clue what your problem is. That said, I believe the board in the back box is the same and should interchange. Me? I would swap the Batman board over and see if that fixes the problem; It might save you all kinds of trouble shooting hours. Or it might not.

Also, I don't know how it would affect your settings. I don't know much at all about these later Sterns.

IMG_0793 (resized).JPGIMG_0793 (resized).JPG

#10920 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

No, they were sold with about 6 other items.

We are able to ship with USPS and Canada Post, so anywhere in the USA or Canada is fine.
No duties

PM sent

#10927 1 year ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

Does the premium have any switches to the left wireform? Or does the ball just go up the ramp and drop at left return? Any help would be appreciated..

Yes. There is a small micro switch. The right ramp makes up one of the skill shots. So if you hit the ramp when it is lit you will have made the skill shot. Or if you accidentally go up that ramp it will negate any other skill shot. I do not know what other kind of action comes from that ramp shot switch.

The bonus with the ramp shot is that if you are good enough, when the ball comes across the wire form and drops in front of the left flipper you can go for the ramp shot a 2nd time. If you were really good you could go into an endless loop.

#10932 1 year ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Has anyone had the problem in the premium where a shot exiting the right ramp in the inlanes bounces right to the outlanes? I just had this happen three times in a game.
Seems like the ball is hitting the sling rubber when dropping from the wireform and bouncing off of that but I can't seem to make any adjustments that fixes it. Any advice?

Can you take a pic of the area where you are having the problem ?

#10935 1 year ago
Quoted from Shaneotilt:

Bend the wire that mounts to the sling assembly a bit to get it away from it, happens after a clean/wax on mine ever now and again. If it’s persistent I loosen it and move it

What he said.

here is mine. That U-turn wire that is bolted down might be bent. And perhaps every once in awhile the ball will drop and kiss the sling shot rubber. This is the best I can think of.

While not relevant to your issue, mine has a big washer under the plastic. On both sling shots. Your washer is missing. Probably not a big deal; Just an observation.

IMG_0836 (resized).JPGIMG_0836 (resized).JPG

#10938 1 year ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Thank you for the responses guys. I'll try to find a couple large washers and possibly bend the wire as suggested. Hoping that fixes it! I had an epic game going, over 2 billion but three balls were lost to this unfair drain...

I do not think the washers are critical to your game play. Do some glass off testing with a ball. Keep dropping it into that ramp wire and watch how it behaves.

1 week later
#10972 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I installed these extended rails years ago to minimize the left and right drain issue. Made the game worth playing...
[quoted image]

How did you install those? Did you have to drill holes in your play field?

#10983 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Sure did.
No guts, no glory.
[quoted image]

Your pin. Your play field. I get that.

But a different way would have been to buy a couple of factory lane guides and weld your additions to the factory guides. You would get the play action you were seeking without cobbling up your play field. And could revert to stock sometime in the future when it is time to sell.

#10991 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I don’t believe it has lowered the value myself,if I wanted this title and I would if I did not pay through the nose for my current premium I would still buy one with this modification

Quoted from ramegoom:

I'd be willing to bet that adding those holes to the playfield will not affect the resale of the machine whatsoever.
I figured it's a safe bet regardless...this machine has skyrocketed in value since its debut. *IF* I should ever decide to sell it, low plays and mint condition will be the driving factor, not a couple of very carefully added mods to enhance the playtime. I'll roll with that....

I won't bet against you

#11021 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I live close by, what is the asking price?

Quoted from MaxIsDead:

I’d pay $500 for a Stern GB shooter rod. Hit me up

I would say the seller is probably asking at least $500.00.

#11036 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

If anyone simply must have the original Stern marshmallow shooter, who am I to stop you from achieving your dreams?
PM me.

Ka-ching ka-ching

Screen Shot 2022-08-26 at 6.51.17 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-08-26 at 6.51.17 PM (resized).jpg

#11040 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Nah. I give away lots of my spare parts, plastics, extra decals if people need them. Besides, $1,500.00 usd (fifteen hundred and no/100) is fair for such an exquisite shooter. I’m probably understating it. It feels more like a conduit from your soul to the heart of the ball itself. Nothing expresses the intent of your hand to the pinball quite like this shooter. When you launch the ball, you can hear it sing. “Who you gonna call…”

You write like an advertising copywriter

#11059 1 year ago
Quoted from MaxIsDead:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your shooter housing is crooked.

It looks nice.

I am interested in how you got such a nice hammertone finish on your legs and lockdown bar, please. That is some of the best hammertone I have seen. Is this a powder coat? It really pops with the Premium graphics.

While I am asking, it looks like your apron is hammertoned, as well. Would you mind showing a pic of your apron.

Thanks.

2 weeks later
#11104 1 year ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

- I dialed in the far right ramp to perfection (premium only) so it can be hit consistently.

Could you talk a little more about this and what you did? I like that right ramp but it is tough. My failure rate is probably 60%.

2 weeks later
#11118 1 year ago
Quoted from GameVault:

It get stuck all the way in the left position and even tries to move further and the belt jumps. What is this issue? I have emailed Stern support, but no correct solution.

I have no idea. All i can say is keep leaning on Stern. The problem you are having could happen to anyone with a Premium or LE.

1 week later
#11131 1 year ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Doesn't hurt to leave it listed and see what the biggest crazy person is I guess. Worst case scenario he has to keep it.

A seller can ask for whatever he wants. Sometimes he will reel in a big fish (and you will flip him off). Other times he will be eating it ( and you will laugh at the fool).

In the meantime, in this day and age, it costs little, or nothing at all, to list something for sale. A seller can keep an ad up for a long time, especially if what is for sale doesn't eat.

And if you are really serious you can always contact him and ask if he is willing to make deal.

#11137 1 year ago

A trip down Memory Lane about prices

Quoted from whitey:

I saw a LE on ebay for 14,000K That's hilarious

** Whitey is no longer around. He got busted for selling something near 20 pins on Pinside and never made a contribution.Somebody fingered him and was Blocked.

Quoted from kpg:

That's a pretty decent deal as I'm only willing to entertain offers above $15K for mine

Quoted from Bing_Party:

What a joke. yeah they ask for 14k, if you see it sold please update the thread, curious to see if someone actually thinks it's worth that color green and a number.

And now for the topper:

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Marco has listed the GB topper on their website for $499.95. Good Lord!!
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7001-00

Quoted from jar155:

Ugh...pass. I'll make my own topper or go without. I'd rather put $500 into another game.

Quoted from indypinhead:

It looks better than the 1st one I saw. It still looks like the LAH topper to me.
It goes well w/ the pro/premium artwork...but not at all w/ the LE artwork.

Quoted from 30FathomDave:

I'm not feeling the topper. I was hoping for something a bit more ominous. I think I'm going to attempt to build one of my own.

Quoted from kpg:

Sorry, but that topper looks like shit. Turns an other wise awesome looking game into some Little Tykes kids toy to me. Should we put plastic proton packs and traps hanging off it as well? I'd rather have a Slimer or stay Puft guy up on top then a plastic siren that came off a Power Wheels police car

Quoted from jar155:

The proton siderails are a million times worse than the topper, but that topper is just bad too. Saves me $500, I guess.

Quoted from Chippewa-Pin:

I agree, but just not THAT topper. I'm sure the mod guys will come up with something really cool for the pro/prem and something different for the LE.

Quoted from iceman44:

Topper sucks. Waste of money.

Quoted from weapon76:

Ugly Topper with a ugly price tag... Pinblades are a must have though

#11153 1 year ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

I honestly wish I never played this game. Now everything else to me is .....meh. Don't understand a lot of hate this got/gets. So many smooth flowing shots, to me at least. Played the Premium. I got the Librarian lady who screamed at me and my wife, scared the CRAP out of us. Didn't know that was even a thing until I got it then the next hour playing we kept trying to figure it out again but couldn't do it. So naturally I came on here to see any for sale and they are way out of my range for now. Very upset I missed the boat on this one when stern was cranking them out.

Step up and buy one. And make a little gamble that you will be able to get most of your money back when you sell.

#11162 1 year ago
Quoted from oradke:

Sell? SELL?!? Nobody in their right mind sells their GB. I sold my GB pro once only to give in and buy a NiB GB prem a few months later.

My Premium is not going anywhere. I love those mag slings.

#11166 1 year ago
Quoted from freddy:

But I do love that Munsters topper you sold me !

For too cheap, i might add

#11174 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

The magna slings are such a cool addition I really don't get the hate - yes they occasionally screw you over and drop the ball down the middle, but the cool effects are worth it for me, and they are just another randomizer like any other mech (bash magnets, pops, normal slings etc) - all of which can fire the ball sdtm or straight down the outlanes.
Also I have never had magnetized ball issues on GB, which I do find odd, because the magnets activate far more often than other machines, which have had issues.

Quoted from bicyclenut:

I agree with you on all parts of your post. I like the unpredictable of the magna slings. Makes it like a ghost is in control of it.

with my Premium, it seems like it is only the right sling that does any magnet action. The left never does anythingexcept for normal sling shot action.

How does this compare to yours?

Thanks

#11178 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

Have you tested your left sling magnet?

No. Did not know there is a way to test it. How do you test a sling magnet?

#11182 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Doesnt seem normal. You should test that.

i'd love to be able to test that. Can you tell me how to do so?

Thanks

#11183 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Magnaslings are awesome. Luckily, its very very rare on my machine to ever see it send a ball sdtm.

With my right magna sling working it has tossed the ball all the way up to the ramp. It has grabbed a ball heading for the right inlane and slung it SDTM--with gusto.

And it has grabbed the ball and held it stationary on the play field and then started rocking the ball back and forth before sending SDTM.

And, masochist that I am, I'm loving every minute of it.

Beat me. Hurt me.

#11193 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I’ve had both, I started with the mirror and later got the PKE illumination mod from Mezel. The Mezel option is more helpful in my opinion.

The previous owner placed the P-K-E illumination on my Premium. I like this set up, but I'm thinking about adding the mirror mod, along with the P-K-E mod so I can actually see which inlane the ball is lining up for. Would it be me wasting my money?

#11195 1 year ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Does combining the mirror and the PKE work with the premium? Everyone loves the PKE mod, but I agree that the mirror would be useful for seeing the ball.

The P-K-E lights are held on with double back tape and can be moved around. It would not be in the way of the mirror. I think both would fit OK.

#11199 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:What is a hundred dollars?

It ain't what it used to be

#11213 1 year ago
Quoted from MaxIsDead:

$50 + $50 =$100
Or
$99 + $1 = $100
Or
$1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 + $1 = $100

That $100 plus 19,899 more wil buy you a .............bargain

in 1971, a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud retailed for $19,000.

Today?
















.

IMG_1644 (resized).JPGIMG_1644 (resized).JPG

#11221 1 year ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Can someone tell me how to disable the scream feature for when the kids are playing?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/215#post-6823139

See post #10741. Shut that annoying troll up.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

Quoted from freddy:

Don't baby them , let them enjoy the scream!

One haven’t lived till they have heard the scream !

Agreed. You should let them jump out of their skin just once.

#11225 1 year ago
Quoted from Riefepeters:

My 3 year old was the first one to achieve the scream here and he literally wouldn’t play the game anymore , even though I then turned off the scream thereafter for him ! I eventually traded my premium away. Then I was sad. Then I replaced with a pro that ended up playing so much better with less airballs and BS drains. Then I was happy. I left the scream on because it’s awesome. Then my 3 year old played it again and it screamed. And we laughed. And All is right in the world again.
Good story, eh?
[quoted image]

Nice lineup. But what is that oversize neon light unit you have hanging on the wall ?

#11227 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

You're going to think yourself silly for not catching it at first glance, it's a jukebox

Now I see. But it looks like a neon picture of a jukebox. It looks interesting.

#11233 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

Finally after many years in storage installed a set of Black Mirror Blades into the game - result is subtle night time lighting feel.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Would you mind putting up 2-3 pics of this from the player's point of view?

Thanks.

2 weeks later
#11255 1 year ago
Quoted from vintage4life:

Only thing that drives me insane is the ball will stay in the pops forever. Specifically the top left one. It will bounce in a triangle pattern for ever. Happens constantly. Is there a fix for that?

Mine does this, too. All the time. I am thinking that maybe I could plant a skinny post behind that rubber and push it out a bit, but I am not at the point I want to drill a hole on my play field---even though it would be hidden.

#11262 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Maybe adjust the leaf switches a bit so they aren’t quite as sensitive?

There are not any leaf switches. The ball gets locked into bouncing back and forth with the rubber just to the left on the little yellow car on the racetrack and the rubber ring on the right hand side of the racetrack.

IMG_1828 (resized).JPGIMG_1828 (resized).JPG

Quoted from oradke:

Try changing the angle a bit!

Should I make the angle steeper or less steep. I have the bubble sitting in the middle on the two lines on the spirit gauge.

Quoted from ramegoom:

I have the same problem with those pops, sounds like it's pretty common. I have a solution and started tinkering, but haven't proven it yet.
It consists of a delay circuit that is triggered by the first pop. When it times out, all of the pops are disabled (power cut off to them). It could time out for maybe 20 seconds, then disable and drop the ball, then reset after a few seconds to its standby mode.
It'd be a simple design and then just a matter of implementing it into the machine and testing the design.
If there's enough interest out there, I'd move forward with it.

I'm thinking I will try something in a couple of days. Something simple. I m going to try splitting a soda straw lengthwise and slipping it over that rubber ring. It if it works it will be a very cheap fix. If it does not work, not much time and no material expended.

#11265 1 year ago
Quoted from vintage4life:

Ok I think I fixed it for now. I just moved the rubber down lower on the post. Played a few games and it’s awesome so far.
[quoted image]

You da man, man ! I moved the rubber down as you suggested. The difference in game play up in the pops is much better.

So, when it comes time to replace the rubber. that post needs to be turned upside down.

Thank you

#11269 1 year ago
Quoted from CoasterG:

Are there schematics available? The auto plunger isn't working properly and I'm betting I'll need parts.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for but page 35 shows the ball launch assembly.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Ghostbusters_Pro_web.pdf

#11272 1 year ago
Quoted from CoasterG:

Love how it's labeled no schematics and it has most, if not all of them.

I'm not sure I understand. The only schematics would be for the circuit board in the backbox---and I don't know what Stern's policy is if you need that CB repaired.

As far as the auto launch assembly, to me it looks like all the parts are pictured and identified with part numbers.

What am I missing?

#11281 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Wolffcub’s firehouse is spectacular. I hope he offers more of them. Along with Vimtoman’s Halloween house, this is easily one of the best mods I’ve ever seen. His attention to detail is bonkers, from the mini Star Gazer pinball to the flashers in the roof, it’s really awesome. I do like the Mezel mod firehouse too, it’s another great option.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I requested a fire house from Wolfcub. I hope he is still making them.

#11293 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I’m fairly close to starting the backup list.

I also sent you a PM yesterday. I am still a buyer when you get more made.

#11300 1 year ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

Anyone have link for the subway car ? Appreciate it

Get this one from Amazon for $12.00, cut the ends of the car out and add your own LEDs. Don't like the graphics? Get a can of silver paint for $5.00.

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Subway-Latino-Graffiti-Diecast/dp/B077DDH392/ref=sr_1_11

Here is the Amazon unit for $12.00.

Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 3.48.39 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-12-04 at 3.48.39 PM (resized).jpg

And the other one.

Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 3.47.22 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-12-04 at 3.47.22 PM (resized).jpg

#11302 1 year ago
Quoted from oradke:

It‘s a cool mod, but obstructs the view on PKE. I took it off my machine because of that. YMMV.

And why I decided against installing, as well.

#11319 1 year ago
Quoted from Pastor69:

I 3D printed the assembly and bought these LED strips:
theyre about 20 bucks and give some cool effects

Those are pretty slick.

Amazon sells too many kinds to count. Are they all the same or is there a preference?

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/s

1 week later
#11371 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Yup. I still make the left ramp Airball protector AND the right orbit protector:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/95221
Just ping me.

Quoted from Ballderdash:

Morgoth00 get this man’s right orbit protector. I was in pain without it and he just made another batch recently. Thank us later.

What is the problem with the right orbit that I need a protector? If I have a problem in this area I am scratching my head to understand what it is.

#11373 1 year ago
Quoted from Zzap:

It's the fact the ball gets airborne off the shooter lane, as it goes around that right orbit it can rattle around a bit of it's not a smooth transition off the shooter lane

Thank you. I am not having that problem.

#11375 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballderdash:

And miss the rollover switch

OK. That has happened to me on occasion. Thank you.

#11386 1 year ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Encountered this noise last night. Sounded like an idling chainsaw or at least an apparition manifestation. Started being intermittent by the time I got the glass off and I think maybe it had to do with the slimer arm? It stopped shortly after I began investigating before I could pinpoint. Any thoughts?

To into the Adjustments menu and turn #12 Slimer off and see if that isolates the problem.

I loathe intermittent problems.

Good Luck. I would like to hear the solution when you have it.

IMG_1956 (resized).JPGIMG_1956 (resized).JPG

#11396 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

They are surprisingly light for leg bolts

Being light is titanium's stock in trade. The military aircraft of the world could not exist without it.

And the US imports most all of its titanium. Although, I doubt Russia is still a supplier.

Screen Shot 2022-12-22 at 8.20.40 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-12-22 at 8.20.40 AM (resized).jpg

#11400 1 year ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Contacted stern, they blew me off and said call a distro

A disturbing statement. Makes me fear 3-4 more years out and imagine if that circuit board on the back box went bad. Will Stern make that CB available for a machine that sold for $$$$ thousands of dollars new but is now yesterday's news?

1 month later
#11458 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Half of me wants to explain and the other half is wondering where you been since the games release!!!

Maybe he just bought the pin. Yes? It happened to me when I got my GB last December. What is that screaming bitch?! There were no instructions.

Quoted from PNBLWZD:

Was playing my GB last night and did something i’ve never seen. Locked a ball, machine went dark, let out a really loud scream (much louder than volume set) and a skull appeared on the display. Startled me, then everything back to normal. Anyone seen this? Easter egg?

if you don't like that Screamer you can turn it off.

Go to your Feature Adjustments. Click on G.B.

IMG_2131 (resized).jpgIMG_2131 (resized).jpg

Go to adjustment #35.

IMG_2139 (resized).jpgIMG_2139 (resized).jpg

To turn it off, cycle to NO. Enjoy the silence.

IMG_2133 (resized).jpgIMG_2133 (resized).jpg

#11461 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

It’s a great feature. Going dark with a little buzz/shock sound then the scream that doesn’t honor the volume setting… awesome! Sure scared the crap out of me the first time it happened to me!
A friend of mine was playing his late at night with a headphone kit installed. The game speakers were muted and it even overrode that setting!

First time was ear splitting; Not scary. The 2nd time it was an ear splitting annoyance and scared the crap out of the dog. After that it was just a PIA for me. Good thing Stern offers options for each player/owner. It took me 20 seconds to shut it after someone told me how.

1 week later
#11482 1 year ago
Quoted from rdleifriaf:

... Yeah, but it happens a lot...

Do you have a Pro or a Premium? Not that it matters, I suppose.

Can you take some hot glue and some small object and hot glue to the back of Slimer so there is no place for the ball to rest? Like maybe cut a shirt button in half , stand it one edge and hot glue it to Slimer?

Sort of like the nubs on pop bumper skirts prevent a ball from resting on the skirt.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

After thinking on this for awhile, just a dab of hot glue might be all you need to do.

#11491 1 year ago
Quoted from big-c66:

I’ve got a chance to buy a pro for 5,800$.
It has been on route but works perfectly n seems to be not beat up or anything is that a pretty good price for one what do y’all think.

Here is the archived list of sold Ghostbusters Pro. This might help give you an idea of sales prices on pinside.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&radius_latitude=37.675&radius_longitude=-97.32&keywords=&ad_machine_key=2378&ad_condition=0&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=&year_to=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_end_date&sort_order=DESC#results

#11504 1 year ago

Since everybody is talking about magna slings I want to know if mine are working correctly. The right hand magna sling works and works well and those two triangle lights light up. My left magna sling has never activated. I don't know if the left one is supposed to work or not.

If both magna slings are supposed to work, what could be the reason my left sling does not do the magna?

I am the 2nd owner of this pin so I don't know how it is supposed to work out of he box.

#11507 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Yes they are both supposed to work. Check the switches in switch test to make sure they are registering. They may be gapped too wide or too close or maybe a wiring problem.

Thanks. I'll look into this

Quoted from orlandu81:

It's definitely supposed to work. Some sequences are really well done when both are active...for example early on they stay more reserved but the further you progress the crazier they get. There is one sequence where the magnets act like normal slings, pushing and pulling the ball back and forth between the slings at a consistent speed. I love that. Other sequences take the ball and throw it up or down, love that too. Another sequence I notice during multiball the ball will be held by the magnet and kind of "freeze", then drop to the flipper...I love it all. The magna slings are probably my favorite feature on this machine.

I have had it where the right sling has tossed the ball SDTM and threw it all the way up to the firehouse. One time the ball locked on the play field and kept going back and forth with about a 3 inch travel.

I have not had any magna action during multiball. You make me feel like I'm missing something.

I hope both of you stick around. I may have more questions. But it will be a couple of days before I can look into it.

#11512 1 year ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

You can send me a PM and we can talk directly. I'm happy to send you some video of the action in the multiple scenarios.

PM sent. Thanks.

Quoted from Rager170:

My favorite is when the balls float in the middle circling each other. Just amazing to watch.

Never seen this on my GB.

Quoted from Rager170:

No magnasling during multiball? Something seems off.

No. I have never experienced any magna sling action during multiball.

Quoted from Morgoth00:

Magna slings only demo

What is happening in this video is so much more than I have experienced on my GB. The left side triangle white lights only light up during the test functions. Never during game play.

#11515 1 year ago
Quoted from orlandu81:

You can send me a PM and we can talk directly. I'm happy to send you some video of the action in the multiple scenarios.

Quoted from Rager170:

No magnasling during multiball? Something seems off.

It's official, boys and girls. I did a switch test and my left magna sling is deader than the proverbial door nail.

1) I have lifted the play field and the magna coil is plugged in.

2) I unplugged/disconnected and swapped the wire/connectors for both manga coils and the problem stays with the left magnet.

In short, both cables that power the slings are pushing power to the magnets. But the left magnet does not work.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't know how to trouble shoot this.

My first thoughts are that the left sling magnet is bad.

But I have no clue. If the magnet is not bad, then what else could it be?

And if the magnet is bad how would I test for that?
----------------------------------------------------------

Or maybe the switch wiring is bad? I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that, either; Not without ripping into the wire harness. I don't know where the switch gets its power from.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And the $500.00 question: If the magnet is bad, where do I get a replacement? I have found this UK link with the magnet for sale for $146.00 Euros. If this UK site even ships to the states, I can already feel the bend-over shipping charges.

https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-spareparts/spare-parts-by-game/ghostbusters-premium/magnetic-slingshot-assembly-511-7705-00_1971_1773

All thoughts and ideas are welcomed.

EDIT: Ok. looking at the service manual, on page 13, 3.2 Switch Reference shows the left sling leaf switch has a gray/blue input wire and a black /yellow ground wire. And then there is a column that gives address numbers and the left sling leaf switch has an Address of 9-SW-31. And I have no clue as to what this address is.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT #2:

OK. I found where the gray/blue wire for the left switch goes to.

It looks like Node board #9 if I am reading everything correctly. Connector CN10.

Nine Ball Plastic 2 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 2 (resized).jpeg

So, now I have found the power source for the left sling switch. How do I test this?

Is my Node board bad for the left switch? And if it is bad, can I even buy a replacement from Stern?

#11518 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

Just finished a design for the Library upgrade that will replace the Stern Library - similar in looks and size but has a base that is mounted first and then the top goes over with the building looking similar to the real building.
It has a series of windows that will light up with GI. It will have 2 different mounting systems into the base - one for Pro owners to uterlise the 2 angle brackets and then the 4 holes for the Premium / LE guys.
Also still got to finalise the decal as well.
I am waiting on quote for parts and then I will order a set to final test fit and paint up and install.
Also working on a few other buildings to add that world under glass feeling for this game - something a little more unique.
[quoted image]

Ah...pinball. A hobby where the money train never stops

#11524 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Set you meter to measure ohms. Unplug the coil in question and measure the resistance across the 2 pins of the coil.
If the coil measures bad, I’d be tempted to take it apart and see if there was a simple broken wire that I could repair before spending $200 on a new one.

Thanks. I'll check the coil. I'll do some more checking to try and isolate the problem

Nice link. Thanks. i'll study this one hard. I got the part number from one of your pics. Pinball Life does stock this node board. $150.00. But it is available. Sure is/are a lot of electronics parts on that little board. Do you think I could get off lucky and only have to replace a SCR/transistor?

Quoted from PeterG:

I would start to see if the switches are not closed all the time. So the leaves must not touch eachother otherwise the sling will just shut off. Your switch test showed that there was no response there. So start there.

Switch is open. Thanks.

#11525 1 year ago

Did you have some special tool to help with pulling the connectors on the node board? They look like locking connectors and the node board is buried under a huge cluster of wires. I do not see easy access to removing the node board.

Any tricks you or anybody else has for removing this node board will be appreciated.

Thanks

#11538 1 year ago
Quoted from freddy:

Maybe try ajusting levelers left to right just a little!

Now, here is a man with a solution

#11542 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Very good advice for SDTM rolls. A very slight left or right tilt can save a lot of headaches. You could also consider the center post mode. It adds a center post attached to a plastic so you don’t need to alter your playfield at all. It doesn’t come into play much, but might help with repeated SDTM rolls, if adjusting the left/right pitch isn’t what you want.

I have the center mounted. It only helps about 5% of the time. It might be the thing for SDTM drains.

#11548 1 year ago

Wrong thread

#11552 1 year ago
Quoted from rwmech5:

Marcos messaged the premium library is back in stock if pro owners would like to upgrade.

Marco is sure proud of that piece of plastic.

#11557 1 year ago
Quoted from big-c66:

I’m wondering if I should go ahead and buy some of the electronic boards to keep in case one goes. I found the main driver board I thought about getting it

I thought about that, too. But what if you buy this board and a different one goes bad. Stockpiling could be an expensive proposition. This weekend I will be ordering some items and I need to buy the node board for the magna slings for the bargain price of only $150.00. Plus shipping

I have alway been under the impression that the US postal service lived off of its junk mail business. But I'm starting to think that the post office makes it living with pinball parts. I need something from Marco. I need something from Pinball Life. And I need to call Steve at Pinball Resource.

#11567 1 year ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

Anyone use the the mezelmods firehouse? How does it look in person compared to the original?

It looks nice. It is a shell that sits over the top of the factory firehouse. It is not as cool as the firehouse the Wolfcub makes/had made. But it looks just as good as the picture shows it looking.

Anything looks better than the factory unit.

#11571 1 year ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

I have been holding out hope that Wolfclub would make more. Just wondering how plan B looked.

I am thinking of hitting the model railroad hobby shop and get some building material like sheets of brick wall and making one of my own. When you get down to it, all it is is a box.

#11584 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Im back baby! Took some leave time from Pinside. I have started to make more firehouses, ghost traps and PKE buildings.

This is welcome news. I am still in for a Firehouse for my Premium.

#11586 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It's official, boys and girls. I did a switch test and my left magna sling is deader than the proverbial door nail.
1) I have lifted the play field and the magna coil is plugged in.
2) I unplugged/disconnected and swapped the wire/connectors for both manga coils and the problem stays with the left magnet.
In short, both cables that power the slings are pushing power to the magnets. But the left magnet does not work.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't know how to trouble shoot this.
My first thoughts are that the left sling magnet is bad.
But I have no clue. If the magnet is not bad, then what else could it be?
And if the magnet is bad how would I test for that?
----------------------------------------------------------
Or maybe the switch wiring is bad? I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that, either; Not without ripping into the wire harness. I don't know where the switch gets its power from.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And the $500.00 question: If the magnet is bad, where do I get a replacement? I have found this UK link with the magnet for sale for $146.00 Euros. If this UK site even ships to the states, I can already feel the bend-over shipping charges.
https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-spareparts/spare-parts-by-game/ghostbusters-premium/magnetic-slingshot-assembly-511-7705-00_1971_1773
All thoughts and ideas are welcomed.
EDIT: Ok. looking at the service manual, on page 13, 3.2 Switch Reference shows the left sling leaf switch has a gray/blue input wire and a black /yellow ground wire. And then there is a column that gives address numbers and the left sling leaf switch has an Address of 9-SW-31. And I have no clue as to what this address is.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT #2:
OK. I found where the gray/blue wire for the left switch goes to.
It looks like Node board #9 if I am reading everything correctly. Connector CN10.
[quoted image]
So, now I have found the power source for the left sling switch. How do I test this?
Is my Node board bad for the left switch? And if it is bad, can I even buy a replacement from Stern?

Quoted from cottonm4:

It's official, boys and girls. I did a switch test and my left magna sling is deader than the proverbial door nail.
1) I have lifted the play field and the magna coil is plugged in.
2) I unplugged/disconnected and swapped the wire/connectors for both manga coils and the problem stays with the left magnet.
In short, both cables that power the slings are pushing power to the magnets. But the left magnet does not work.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't know how to trouble shoot this.
My first thoughts are that the left sling magnet is bad.
But I have no clue. If the magnet is not bad, then what else could it be?
And if the magnet is bad how would I test for that?
----------------------------------------------------------
Or maybe the switch wiring is bad? I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that, either; Not without ripping into the wire harness. I don't know where the switch gets its power from.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And the $500.00 question: If the magnet is bad, where do I get a replacement? I have found this UK link with the magnet for sale for $146.00 Euros. If this UK site even ships to the states, I can already feel the bend-over shipping charges.
https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-spareparts/spare-parts-by-game/ghostbusters-premium/magnetic-slingshot-assembly-511-7705-00_1971_1773
All thoughts and ideas are welcomed.
EDIT: Ok. looking at the service manual, on page 13, 3.2 Switch Reference shows the left sling leaf switch has a gray/blue input wire and a black /yellow ground wire. And then there is a column that gives address numbers and the left sling leaf switch has an Address of 9-SW-31. And I have no clue as to what this address is.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT #2:
OK. I found where the gray/blue wire for the left switch goes to.
It looks like Node board #9 if I am reading everything correctly. Connector CN10.
[quoted image]
So, now I have found the power source for the left sling switch. How do I test this?
Is my Node board bad for the left switch? And if it is bad, can I even buy a replacement from Stern?

Quoted from cottonm4:

It's official, boys and girls. I did a switch test and my left magna sling is deader than the proverbial door nail.
1) I have lifted the play field and the magna coil is plugged in.
2) I unplugged/disconnected and swapped the wire/connectors for both manga coils and the problem stays with the left magnet.
In short, both cables that power the slings are pushing power to the magnets. But the left magnet does not work.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't know how to trouble shoot this.
My first thoughts are that the left sling magnet is bad.
But I have no clue. If the magnet is not bad, then what else could it be?
And if the magnet is bad how would I test for that?
----------------------------------------------------------
Or maybe the switch wiring is bad? I'm not sure how to trouble shoot that, either; Not without ripping into the wire harness. I don't know where the switch gets its power from.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And the $500.00 question: If the magnet is bad, where do I get a replacement? I have found this UK link with the magnet for sale for $146.00 Euros. If this UK site even ships to the states, I can already feel the bend-over shipping charges.
https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-spareparts/spare-parts-by-game/ghostbusters-premium/magnetic-slingshot-assembly-511-7705-00_1971_1773
All thoughts and ideas are welcomed.
EDIT: Ok. looking at the service manual, on page 13, 3.2 Switch Reference shows the left sling leaf switch has a gray/blue input wire and a black /yellow ground wire. And then there is a column that gives address numbers and the left sling leaf switch has an Address of 9-SW-31. And I have no clue as to what this address is.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT #2:
OK. I found where the gray/blue wire for the left switch goes to.
It looks like Node board #9 if I am reading everything correctly. Connector CN10.
[quoted image]
So, now I have found the power source for the left sling switch. How do I test this?
Is my Node board bad for the left switch? And if it is bad, can I even buy a replacement from Stern?

I am now in process of trying to get my magna slings working. I have determined that I need a new node board that runs the magna slings.

This is what I have found out today.

1) Ghostbusters is a Spike 1 machine. I thought, incorrectly, that it is a Spike 2 game. It makes a difference.

Here is. a pic from Marco Specialities.

Screen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.33.46 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.33.46 PM (resized).jpg

Here is a pic from Pinball Life

Screen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.34.24 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.34.24 PM (resized).jpg

The 1st) item you need to look at are the part numbers from the Marco pic. You also need to see that Marco has no stock.

The 3rd number down, 520-6985-72B matches the number for Node 9 board. This is on page 25 of the Stern service and operations manual that Stern provided with the pin. The only difference is that the part number in the manual is 520-6985-72' The "B" is missing. I don't know what this means.

The 2nd ) item is the last part number in the Marco pic 199-7017-00A. This is the exact part number that is imprinted on the node board on my play field.

The 3rd) item is the Pinball Life pic. It has a part number of 520-1057-00. Notice that this node board is called out as Stern Spike 2 Node Board.

The pics of these two boards look exactly the same. And they look just like the node board in my Ghostbusters. But these boards are not the same.

I talked to a gentleman at Pinball Life. Since GB is a Spike 1 game, the board that Pinball Life has in stock will not work for GB. He said Stern does not recommend installing a Spike 2 board in a Spike 1 pin.

Pinball does not have the node board that controls the magna slings. He told me that PBL keeps ordering it but it has not come in yet. PBL is expecting an order from Stern to arrive tomorrow and he told me to call back tomorrow.

So, I need a 199-7017-00A node board for my GB premium. No one has it in stock.

If Pinball Life does not get any of these in tomorrow, then I am going to sit down and write a letter to Gary Stern asking him why I should even consider parting with my hard earned money for a new Stern pinball for thousands of dollars with----no reassurance that needed parts will be available 5 or 6 years out. It is like this: Gary, Stern needs the home market in its business mix. You have said so yourself. Are you going to commit to supporting the home market long term or do you just cut us adrift after 5 or 6 years.

There is nothing to lose. The worst he can do is toss my letter in the trash.

I'll be back when I have something else to add.

#11588 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I hope that I'm wrong as I love my GBLE

I hope you are wrong, too. But if Stern is following Apple Computer's business model of sunsetting its computers after 4-6 years and obsoleting them in 8 or 9 years, we might have to resort to a shaming campaign, ala Taylor Swift. When Apple was trying to get a free ride on musicians' music for Apple's own advertising, Taylor Swift hammered Apple hard when she said, "We don't ask for free iPhones." Apple felt her hammer and changed its ways and paid up.

I hope you are wrong.

#11594 1 year ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Are these boards not something that can be made in the aftermarket like Rottendog does with various boards?

Like anything else, they can probably be made by a 3rd party. But no one has stepped up to the plate, yet. I'm guessing no one will want to take this on unless they can sell a lot of them. I need one but does anyone else need one? That would be an issue.

#11595 1 year ago
Quoted from big-c66:

So I went back and looked again and when I go to Marco and bring the part up it shows the spike 2 with the spike 1 numbers underneath like it crosses over to it.

Yes, it lists several numbers and there is no stock to buy. I almost bought the unit from Pinball Life as the part looks exactly like mine. But Doug, at PBL warned me off of it because it is Spike 2. He alluded that it had something to do with the score display.

I am going to call him later today and see if any Spike 1 units arrived in its parts order. If not, I'm writing a letter to Gary and his current president of the company. Who knows if it will do any good? But I'm not shy when I get pissed off. And this pisses me off.

A $20.00 toaster goes bad, I'll go buy another one. An $8000.00 pinball machine needs parts, what are your options? Worse of it is is that it is now when the pins will start breaking and really need these parts.

I want to find out what Stern's policy is with regards to providing parts to keep a pin running.

Screen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.33.46 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-02 at 3.33.46 PM (resized).jpg

Here are the legal requirements regarding manufacturers providing spare parts.

Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 9.31.01 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-03 at 9.31.01 AM (resized).jpg

7 years is the magic number that lets a manufacturer off the hook. GB hit the market in june 2016. This is 2023. 2023-2016 = 7 years.

So legally, Stern can let Spike 1 ride off into the sunset and say, "So long, suckers".

EDIT: I think the 7 year clock starts when the last unit has left the line. I don't know when the last GB was produced. Maybe we have a little bit of time.

#11597 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballderdash:

I love the smell of class action in the morning

Do we need to start a new thread like the Jersey Jack thread about all of the hosed up play fields?

#11601 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Just curious, but is this the part you are looking for? Sorry if its not but the description says it can be used in Ghostbusters.
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/boards/stern-boards/stern-spike-48-volt-3-amp-8-driver-node-board-for-pinball-machine-520-7017-72-replaces-520-6985-72/

I don't know. I will give them a call.

#11603 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Just curious, but is this the part you are looking for? Sorry if its not but the description says it can be used in Ghostbusters.
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/boards/stern-boards/stern-spike-48-volt-3-amp-8-driver-node-board-for-pinball-machine-520-7017-72-replaces-520-6985-72/

OK. I managed to find Stern's support phone number and talked with a very helpful support representative who goes by name of Eddie. Very helpful.

There are been several superseding part numbers for this node board. You know, problems develop and changes need to be made to the board.

According to Eddie, Ghostbusters and WWE were the last 2 Spike 1 games produced. I'm not sure about the WWE but this is what Eddie said.

He said the last 2 Spike 1 games use the 8 driver node board just like the Spike 2 systems. Since Stern is still building Spike 2 games, the Spike 2 boards will be available for awhile. But Spike 1 games are going to be stuck with what parts that they can find under all of the rocks.

I'll try to not get everybody confused

The 199-7017-00A is the the Node Board 9 in my Ghostbusters. But that number was superseded by 520-6985-72. This is the part number that is in my manual, so sometime between building my GB and the manual being printed, the part number was already superseded.

The part number that Pinball Life sells is 520-1057-00. Eddie at Stern says this board will work. Pinball Life says it will not work. Pinball Life says that several customers blew up this board when they installed in in Ghostbusters.

However, Eddie tells me that before installing this 520-1057-00 board that I need to install an SD card with he latest code; After I install the new SD card then I install the 1057-00 board and start the machine up. Pinball Life says it is not familiar with this SD Card/node board combination and advises against it and also advises that node boards are not returnable. So, you take you chances. The story gets better.

The latest superseding part number is: 520-7017-72 is in stock at Pinball Life. And this part number, according to both Eddie @ Stern and the guy at Pinball Life says the 520-7017-72 will work in GB.

Pinball Life's order has come in and the 520-7017-72 node board is now in stock. I will be making my order shortly.

So, we Ghostbusters owners have dodged a bullet. But the earlier Spike 1 games have been cut adrift and are at mercy of the aftermarket suppliers is the way I am understanding it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Epilog: With Pinball Life you need to know absolutely what you are looking for. You cannot search for parts by game since this node board is used in several machines. You would have to know the part number you need, or you have to search "spike node board". With that search term the part shows up.

These are all 7 of the node boards Pinball Life has in stock.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=spike%20node%20board

Marco has a few more Spike node boards in stock. But Marco is out of stock on a lot of node boards.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=spike%20node%20board&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=0&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy

** I hope I wrote this clearly enough that you all can understand.

#11606 1 year ago

I also learned something else from my phone call with Eddie.

When I had my Munsters and was working with Chas as my Stern contact before he died, Chas stated that Stern was working on a troubleshooting guide for Munsters. I asked Eddie how the troubleshooting guides are coming along.

His answer: There is a troubleshooting guide for the Spike systems. You go to "support" and open up the link that says "Spike System Manual".

Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 2.33.17 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-03 at 2.33.17 PM (resized).jpg

And here is the link to the PDF troubleshooting guide you can download.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf

#11610 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I'm elated to read that GB just falls inside as the one Spike 1 pin that supports some of the Spike 2 boards following a software update. There are going to be some pissed off owners of WM, GOT, KISS pins though. I know that someone had posted about the US or California requirement for replacement parts but I seem to recall reading about a similar requirement in Europe or overseas. Curious to know if that too could help.

Yes. I breathed a big sigh of relief, too. But should we let the Spike 1 owners be left in the dust? Eventually, Spike 2 will get the axe, too. That super high dollar Supreme pin is also a Spike 1 machine.

I am no organizer, but it seems we need a thread for all the Spike 1 owners, all the Spike 2 owners, to flood Gary Stern's snail mail with requests for just what is Stern's policy for supporting these $10,000 pinball machines for spare electronics parts. Like how many years can an owner of a new Bond LE or that super duper 60th anniversary Bond be assured that spare parts will be available.

#11616 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

If anyone in this thread is going to TPF, that would be an excellent question to raise at one of the Stern seminars.

I am not going to TPF but if I were these are the questions I would ask :

I saw the Gary Stern video where he said Stern needs the operator market, the arcade market, and the home market. Let's talk about the home market.

1) If I spend $9,000.00 of my hard earned money on a Godzilla Premium for my home, what assurance do I have that I will be able to buy parts to keep the pin functioning and playing 10 years out?

2) Pins are different from cars where we roll up the miles and wear them out. Does Stern consider a 10 year old pin to be beyond its useful life? Does Stern want us to dump the old pin like Apple Computer wants us to dump a fully functioning PC after 10 years?

3) If Stern supports the aftermarket for supplying parts how much support does Stern give the aftermarket?

#11629 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Bump!
Price drop on all items above to $180!
That's like only paying for the flippers, and the slime, and getting everything else for free!!!
PM if interested.

What makes a pair of flippers worth $100.00?

#11635 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Very good to know and thank you for explaining that to everyone. It will certainly be helpful to others in the future. And as well as add some relief from worrying about future node board issues.

Quoted from Ballderdash:

Fantastic research. Hope all turns out well with your replacements.

Quoted from cottonm4:

I also learned something else from my phone call with Eddie.
When I had my Munsters and was working with Chas as my Stern contact before he died, Chas stated that Stern was working on a troubleshooting guide for Munsters. I asked Eddie how the troubleshooting guides are coming along.
His answer: There is a troubleshooting guide for the Spike systems. You go to "support" and open up the link that says "Spike System Manual".
[quoted image]
And here is the link to the PDF troubleshooting guide you can download.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf

My replacement Node 9 board for the magna slings arrived yesterday. I installed it this afternoon. Here are some walk-thru pics of the removal of old and install of the new Node 9 board.

It arrive in bubble wrap, packed in with some other parts I bought. There were no instructions. No advisories. Just the board.

Part number: 520-7017-72

IMG_2512 (resized).jpgIMG_2512 (resized).jpg

This is the board I removed. It shows the original part number. 199-7017-00A

IMG_2546 (resized).jpgIMG_2546 (resized).jpg

On the backside, it shows a superseding part number: 520-7017-72A

IMG_2548 (resized).jpgIMG_2548 (resized).jpg

This is the the number stickered onto new board: 520-7017-72E

IMG_2550 (resized).jpgIMG_2550 (resized).jpg

This Node 9 board is buried under a cluster of wires and sits just in front of the Scolari Brothers drop targets.

IMG_2533 (resized).jpgIMG_2533 (resized).jpg

There are 2 RJ-45 cables attached that look just alike. I labeled the left cable as LEFT.

IMG_2534 (resized).jpgIMG_2534 (resized).jpg

First step is to remove the Scolari Bros. drop target assemblies. I removed both but you might be able to get by with just removing the right target assy.

IMG_2536 (resized).jpgIMG_2536 (resized).jpg

Then unscrew the wire harness "ladder" that is used for cable management. You need to free up the wire is the reason for this.

IMG_2536 (resized).jpgIMG_2536 (resized).jpg

I removed both lights for the Scolari Bros inserts. Again, you may be OK with leaving the left lamp alone, but space is tight in here.

IMG_2537 (resized).jpgIMG_2537 (resized).jpg

There is another harness "ladder" a little farther down the play field. Unscrew this one as well.

IMG_2542 (resized).jpgIMG_2542 (resized).jpg

Now is time to start removing connectors. They are the locking style of connectors and do not like to disconnect easily

IMG_2520 (resized).jpgIMG_2520 (resized).jpg

You don't want to be pulling on any wires. What worked for me was to take a small screwdriver and sort of wedge it between the 2 connector pieces. And then you sort of walk it off the connector that is on the board

IMG_2561 (resized).JPGIMG_2561 (resized).JPG

As you start working connectors from the board you will gain some slack in the wiring which will help with removing the remaining connectors ( it should go with out saying, but take a good pics of every connector. Once disconnected they can hide quite well). You don't need to mark the connectors. They fairly well stay in their correct position so cross plugging is not a big risk, but invoking Murphy's Law, a determined individual could mess this up.

Once all connectors are released, there are 5 screws to remove. And the the board sort of twist and slides out in to the Scolari target position and you are free.

The screw standoffs are shorter on the replacement board so you will not be able to use the same screws (that are captured in the standoff). I went to the hardware store and got 5 each #6 sheet metal screws, 5/8" long.

IMG_2553 (resized).jpgIMG_2553 (resized).jpg

Reverse the procedure and install the replacement board.

This was not a hard job. Probably an hour and one half while loafing.

============================================

Nex up was to get the latest Premium Ghostbusters code installed to a new USB thumb drive.

I followed the instructions which are easy to follow.

Screen Shot 2023-03-09 at 8.42.29 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-09 at 8.42.29 PM (resized).jpg

And here is where I am at after the software update.

It will start and does not see the Node 9 board. And then it allows me to start a game, but it does not load a ball into the shooter lane.

I don't what I have down wrong, if anything. I will have to contact Stern support in the morning and see what's going on. I hope I get to talk with Eddie again. He is a good CSR.

I will be back when I figure out what the solution to this problem is.

#11637 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I wonder if you had to download the code to flash the SD card directly and then following that power up, it would update the node board(s)[?]
SD IMAGEG are here: https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/
GHOSTBUSTERS v1.17.0 (PRO, PRE or LE)
Details on how to proceed.
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/How-to-Create-a-SD-Card-for-a-SPIKE-System-Pinball-Machine.pdf

I don't know. I hope Stern tech support will get me going.

#11641 1 year ago
Quoted from Swoods5688:

Make sure the dip switch settings for the board you put in match the one you pulled out. That could cause the game to not find it

Plus 1 for you !

The good news:

1) Setting the dip switches was the cure for that problem.

The strange news:

1) With the new code, I do not recognize this game. There have been lots of rule changes. I am going to have to read the README in depth.

The bad news:

1) My left sling is still just as dead as it was before I swapped node 9 board. (grrrr.). (sigh).

and

2) My right Scolari brother is as dead as a doornail. It does nothing during coil test. (grrr) (sigh).

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#11645 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Plus 1 for you !
The good news:
1) Setting the dip switches was the cure for that problem.
The strange news:
1) With the new code, I do not recognize this game. There have been lots of rule changes. I am going to have to read the README in depth.
The bad news:
1) My left sling is still just as dead as it was before I swapped node 9 board. (grrrr.). (sigh).
and
2) My right Scolari brother is as dead as a doornail. It does nothing during coil test. (grrr) (sigh).
[quoted image]

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you tried to reflash the entire game image? Maybe when you talk to tech support, they will have you do that.

Well, boys and girls, I am now the proud owner of a spare Node 9 board. I got with Eddie at Stern support and he starts walking me through items to check. And I should have known better.

The left hand sling shot switch contacts were stuck together. Per Eddie, when this happens the operating system will ignore closed switches after a period of time.

When I pulled the sling plastic to have a look I could see the switches closed together. And from working on my old Stern pins, I could see where someone (probably) the previous owner had "rolled" the switch that is contacted by the ring rubber to bring the contacts closer together and he made it to where they were always closed.
=============================================

Note to dipshit self: When a switch is acting dead, have a physical look at the switch and make sure to switch contacts are not stuck together.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#11646 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballderdash:

Strongly suggest watching this new code stream. That will help.

Thanks. I'll study this. I am almost wishing I could revert back to my old cold. This code is a different animal.

#11649 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

So we are not sure that the new board would have fixed the issue if it was real?

The only issue is that the switches were stuck together. The problem I had with the old board showed up on the replacement board, as well, because it was not a board problem. I would need to reinstall the old board to make an accurate comparison.

#11652 1 year ago
Quoted from yfz450:

I just ordered one for a spare. I believe it will also work in node 8?

I think you are correct.

On pages 24 and 25 in the manual it shows the same 520-6985-72 part number.

I'm looking at page 24 in the manual and see the dip switch settings for node 8 are OFF-OFF-ON-OFF.

On page 25 for Node 9 in the manual and see the dip switch settings for node 8 are OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF.

The Node board that was shipped to me set with the dips set for a Node 8 board.

Added 12 months ago:

I think you are correct.
On pages 24 and 25 in the manual it shows the same 520-6985-72 part number.
I'm looking at page 24 in the manual and see the dip switch settings for node 8 are OFF-OFF-ON-OFF.
On page 25 for Node 9 in the manual and see the dip switch settings for node 8 are OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF.
The Node board that was shipped to me set with the dips set for a Node 8 board.

I wrote this backwards. The dip switches on the node 8 board are OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF.

On the node 9 board.... the dip switches on the node 8 board are OFF-OFF-ON-OFF.

#11654 1 year ago
Quoted from CoasterG:

So here's a weird one. I swapped the rubbers and now the left side sling switches on my Pro don't respond. The actual sling works in the test but the 2 switches don't respond at all.
Didn't do anything else, didn't even lift the playfield.
Any suggestions?

Make sure your switches are not stuck together is the only thing my recent experience can offer. I am going to guess that GB is just like my early SS pins in that the coil test tests the coil, no matter what is going on with the switches. And there are two sling switches wired in series so iff just one switch is closed it takes you out.

This is all just a guess.

#11670 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Help! I need you GB/Spike system sleuths. Here is what happened last night. My son played GB a game or two. We left it on for an hour or so, came back and the playfield was dark, and the DMD was frozen with one piece of GB trivia on the screen. No other lights on. Powered off, left it. Today, powered on, heard a faint click sound, but no lights, no mechs, no DMD. BUT! A few seconds later, and a strong melting plastic/electrical smell. Powered off. Visually, I can’t see anything on the boards in the backbox or under the pf. I can’t even say for sure where the odor of melting plastic came from. Do I have a power failure? A board failure? I’ll reach out to Stern if this doesn’t sound familiar to anyone. I do have a backup node board, if it’s that.
Any suggestions are appreciated!
Thank you!

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf

You might try the steps in Stern's Spike troubleshooting guide. After being on the phone with Stern support I can almost guarantee that support will have you do some of these steps. OTOH, your might be a problem Stern has already ran across.

Stern support phone number is: 1-800-542-5377

This is page 28 of 3 pages.

Screen Shot 2023-03-15 at 6.32.50 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-15 at 6.32.50 PM (resized).jpg

#11673 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Well, boys and girls, I am now the proud owner of a spare Node 9 board. I got with Eddie at Stern support and he starts walking me through items to check. And I should have known better.
The left hand sling shot switch contacts were stuck together. Per Eddie, when this happens the operating system will ignore closed switches after a period of time.
When I pulled the sling plastic to have a look I could see the switches closed together. And from working on my old Stern pins, I could see where someone (probably) the previous owner had "rolled" the switch that is contacted by the ring rubber to bring the contacts closer together and he made it to where they were always closed.
=============================================
Note to dipshit self: When a switch is acting dead, have a physical look at the switch and make sure to switch contacts are not stuck together.
[quoted image]

I have had a few days of playing Ghostbuster with both magna slings working. And they are working good. Real good. The fun factor has moved up.

I also finally got a chance to watch the original Ghostbusters movie. Now I know what some of the callouts in the game are referencing in the movie.

And instead of a Terror Dog statue to put in the play field I would like to have one of Sigourney Weaver somewhere on the play field.

#11676 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Found it. Cooked a chip at U30 on the CPU. Is this board replaceable or can it be repaired? Coin Op Cauldron time?
[quoted image]

Call support. Talk to Eddie.

Ghostbusters is a Spike 2 pin. Like all of the Spike 2 pins made today.

But if you can find out the part number of the chip it looks replaceable. It is a surface mount chip. But you can replace it. I have had to replace a couple on a Weebly SDU board. And the Uno display kits you can buy and build use all surface mount chips.

#11677 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Not sure if Clive does Stern boards, but I know @borygord(I think that's how it is spelled) repairs modern Sterns.

It is a two dollar chip. Boryguard will charge $150.00.

#11683 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I know that we have been discussing the swappable node PCBs as being SPIKE 2 compatible with switch selection to identify the Node# but were you in fact told that GB is entirely considered a Spike2 system? Can a Spike 2 MPU PCB be swapped in? IPDB has it wrong if so and I was under the impression that GB would have otherwise had a larger animated display if it was, instead of the DMD. Is this a timing of development and release thing that they just pushed it out with the DMD? Actually, as I type this I recall that Batman 66 was prioritized for production due to concern for Adam West's health (I think) so this might explain the rumour of the original plan to have a larger screen for GB, thus a need for an enhanced Spike system. I hope that is somewhat accurate but ultimately I only care that GB is really a Spike2 system. I have only two other Spike2 pins; BM66 and EHOH.

No. Thanks for catching this difference. I cannot speak to the CPU.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

GB has a Spike 1 CPU, not Spike 2. They aren’t the same. Spike 2 CPU boards are readily available for around $300. Spike 1 CPUs are sold out everywhere I looked, and were $600-700 when available. I agree this chip at U30 should be cheap. I’ll gladly pay $150 for excellent, reliable repair and save $450+ on a new board. If they were even available. If Coin Op can’t do it, I’ll check with Stern about it.

This is bad news and/or sad news. It would be interesting to hear what Stern tells you if you call Stern. I have sent a board out for my Robocop to Borygard. He did a good job for me if you decide to go his way.

#11684 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Spike 1 CPUs are sold out everywhere I looked, and were $600-700 when available.

Wow. I did some looking around and my luck was no better than yours. I did not see any available.

#11685 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Wow. I did some looking around and my luck was no better than yours. I did not see any available.

I just got off the phone with Stern support; This time I talked to Adam. The chip shortage is causing Stern problems, sort of like the auto makers. So, eventually, Spike 1 CPUs should be available again---someday.

This CSR said Stern could repair your board but you have to go through your distributor.

For the older SAM systems, he said some chips are no longer available. He also said Stern is working on some new boards/items and working to make them backward compatible.

This is not much to go on. But I guess it is a start.

Ghostbusters is a 7 year old game. I'm guessing a thread like this will eventually move from talking about the mods we bought for our pins to "my GB is broken. What do I do? ".

#11688 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

This. Eddie at Stern replied quickly and this was his answer. I have the CPU boxed up and I’ll go through a distributor. I’ll update what happens. Thanks to all!

Was there any talk of you returning yours with the burnt chip to have it repaired?

I looked at the U30 chip on my CPU. That chip is 1/3 the size of my pinkie fingernail. That will take a pro to replace.

#11690 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Eddie just said have it sent to Stern for repair through a distro. If they cannot repair the board, they try to replace it with a refurbished board. So we’ll see. If Stern doesn’t solve it, I’ll send it to Borygard for repair.

While googling around for issues with your CPU, I came across this youtube video put out by Stern.

It is very informative about the Spike system.

#11691 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Eddie just said have it sent to Stern for repair through a distro. If they cannot repair the board, they try to replace it with a refurbished board. So we’ll see. If Stern doesn’t solve it, I’ll send it to Borygard for repair.

Can we know how much it is costing to obtain a new CPU the way you are doing via a distro working with Stern?

#11695 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

No doubt. And mine isn’t the only one. I only found U30 because another Pinsider had his WWF CPU listed for sale needing repair, and his U30 was cooked too. Exactly like mine. So it’s a vulnerability it seems. My distro is going to put the repair order in. I’ll update what happens and any costs. I’m happy to pay. I bought mine in 2017. I just want it fully working.

And I just found this pinside Market ad where the guy plugged his GB topper in backwards and blew out U30.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-1-cpu-node-board-520-6936-01b-for-repair-1

#11697 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

SMT components are easily removed and replaced on a printed board as long as you have the proper equipment to do the work.

I managed to solder a number of SMT chips with some UNO displays for early solid state Bally's. I have also had to replace a couple that went bad on one of the boards I bought. All I used was a Hakko desolder gun and my wedge tip Hakko solder iron. It was not hard to do using conventional solder tools.

But this little animal on the GB CPU is beyond anything I would want to try.

This picture makes that U30 chip look huge but it is teeny tiny and it is buried deep down below the cap and whatever number 680 is. It is way beyond my skill level and my box of tools.

Screen Shot 2023-03-16 at 2.48.27 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-16 at 2.48.27 PM (resized).jpg
#11700 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Thats an easy swap out.

With conventional soldering equipment?

Quoted from ramegoom:

Well, if you get cold feet and have the part, send it my way and I'll do it.

My CPU is OK. Pinkitten has the blown CPU.

I appreciate your offer.

#11714 1 year ago
Quoted from big-c66:

So should I get the color DMD first or get my pin stadium lights? This is the serious questions we must ask ourselves from time to time. Talk to me my people I need your input. Lol

I like my self-made Stadium Lights. I don't look at the DMD while I am playing. If you do not have the greatest house lighting, the play field is fairly dark.

1 month later
#11748 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Just follow the Spike Service Manual for trouble shooting. What are the LED's showing for voltage?

Here is the link to that service manual. This, and the manual for each pin, is all the Stern Support people have to figure out what is not right with your pin.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SPIKE-System-Manual.pdf

#11750 11 months ago
Quoted from CoasterG:

What's the easiest and least destructive way to feed a 12v connector from the head so I can attach it to an alternative topper?

Well, no one has answered you yet so I will give you my way.

Get this 12v LED strip light kit from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZKF2ZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00

Screen Shot 2023-04-21 at 8.37.04 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-04-21 at 8.37.04 AM (resized).jpg

The kit comes with a power supply that you can plug into the service port in the back box.
This is the safest way since you are not drawing any power from anywhere on the play field. You have a complete separate circuit.

That's the advantage.

The disadvantages are several:

1) This is a line-of-sight unit which means you will have to place the "receiver" somewhere that it can be accessed by the remote control. You will have to manually turn on and off your topper.

This is how I have done this for my home made Stadium Lights.

I have my line of sight bug tie wrapped to Mr. Stay Puff.

IMG_2987 (resized).jpgIMG_2987 (resized).jpg

You will probably have to cut and splice ina connector to match your topper connector.

If this direction interests you and you have questions, then send me a PM.

#11751 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Thanks for jumping in with the links cottonm4, the spike service manual does a nice job of assisting with troubleshooting.

Yes. I was very surprised when I had to call Stern support and the support guy said this is all they have to troubleshoot with. As far as a Ghostbusters pin, they don't even have one on the floor to touch and play with.

This support guy hired on during the pandemic. Said in his previous life he was a washing machine and dryer service technician. And now he is trouble shooting Stern pinballs.

#11753 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have a Pro in my house, Hopefully we can help out.

Section 12 in the Stern manual is for node board tests. He is going to need to do these tests.

I am going to play around my my Premium and do these node boards tests to see what a working pin shows. But it is a couple of days before I can do this.

#11758 11 months ago

I received my Firehouse mod today. Are there any instructions on how to make this swap? I'll figure it out but if someone has instructions, that would be much appreciated.

It is nice. And of good quality. It has a solid feel to it.

IMG_3023 (resized).jpgIMG_3023 (resized).jpg

#11759 11 months ago
Quoted from fridgejam:

Given their cost and availability, How repairable are the Spike 1 cpu's?
For example could one expect a tech with experience repairing Bally / Williams cpu's, be able to easily follow schematics to troubleshoot and repair a fault on them?

Since you are on different times and long distance telephone is probably not a good option, I suggest you contact Stern Support. The two guys I talked to, Eddie and Adam were both excellent on the phone. Those two would be worth an email contact.

#11762 11 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Take a look at the business card that was attached to the packing slip. It has a link to the instructions online.
here is the link also.
https://www.whitewolfspeedshop.com/instructions

Thank you. I see it now.

I just had cataract surgery done to one eye. It is still getting adjusted in.

#11763 11 months ago

It's in. Looking good. High quality firehouse.

I am going to the model railroad store and get some small figures to place around the pinball machine. Sort of liven the place up.

Screen Shot 2023-04-25 at 6.57.36 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-04-25 at 6.57.36 PM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2023-04-25 at 6.58.27 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-04-25 at 6.58.27 PM (resized).png

#11768 11 months ago
Quoted from Loganpinball:

I made a custom bracket with a spinner to drive proton beam light. It will be powered by the 12v bill accepter circuit. The mod will be easy bolt on and plug in. I am working through the design and testing now, but looks very promising. And with this mod you can use any of the 4 action figures. I just wanted to post the concept here for interested people. I will post a play video when done, but you can see the concept with spinner test on bench.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks interesting. What are you using for that "filament" that is lighting up?

I also like your vise grip/ bench vise combo.

#11769 11 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Looks Fantastic! 2nd Best Mod for GB, Swinks's Proton Guns are my favorite, then Wolfy's Firehouse.

I thought those Proton Guns were neat. Or cool. Or sick. I was thinking about possibly getting a pair but realized my balls drain down the outlane so fast that I would not be able to activate them soon enough.

#11775 11 months ago
Quoted from big-c66:

Hey guys I don’t mean to get off topic but I tried searching this problem I’m having with pinside loading new posts
It doesn’t show I have new posts on here or a lot of the threads I follow but when I click on one it will say like 5-10 new post. Does anyone have this problem or were do I look on how to fix it. Thanks.

I was having that problem but it seems to have self-corrected.

2 weeks later
#11801 10 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I feel like mine doesnt sit as far up as that picture does. Mine typically has his tongue resting on that taller building.

I can't recall for certain, but I think loosening that allen head bolt in the rotating shaft will let you adjust where the slimer is sitting.

#11812 10 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Here is my mystery building for over the right hand side captive ball area which will suit the library scale and the future fire station and perfect for this triangle area. These are mods for me but if anyone wants one down the track I can make you one.
This building is iconic in New York but not in the movie old movies but apparently in the new movie but should look cool all lit up and may still change a little but gives you an idea of what I am talking about and since I have a Pro the building is not a issue but slimer may not move past him or would have to trim the back of him a little.
I am really after world / city under the glass.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
and it is modeled off this iconic building.
[quoted image]

Neat looking building. But I have a Premium and it would get in the way of slimer's travel arc, yes?

#11824 10 months ago
Quoted from big-c66:

They’re not just jacking them up there robbing people there making a freaking killing of them. Lord don’t let me get started

No one is being robbed. They willingly drag money from their pockets to pay for their hobby.

If people would not buy them, then the price would come down. Supply and demand. And there is never going to be a Walmart supply curve.

OTOH, if no one was buying them, they would soon be unobtainum. And then these current pins would be rendered useless and folded up for the next warehouse raids 30 years for now.

#11825 10 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

not sure , it will go up with about 3/4" spare of the angled metal still visible so might be close and if just a little can tweak the back of the building or shorten it up a little. Will have it professional printed as so many windows that a home printer would not do a nice job.

I made a couple of videos showing the Slimer travel over the triangle area on a Premium. If I am at the right area for the triangle of which you speak, there is not going to be much room for a Flat Iron building.

I hope I am not seeing things correctly because I think the Flat Iron building would be sure cool.

#11840 10 months ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Now, here's a crazy question....wonder after raising the flippers if it reduces the strength/power so that the balls don't fly off the left ramp?

I doubt that this would make a difference. You need a plastic channel to set over the top of the ramp to contain the ball.

I apologize for the crappy pics but if you look carefully you can see my plastic channel and my ugly tape holding it in place. I don't see the tape while playing and have not bothered to clean it up yet.

If you do not have a source for some thin plastic, you may try finding a kid's toy in a box with a plastic window that you could repurpose. Also, some of those aluminum basting pans that Walmart sells have plastic lids you can repurpose.

It works like a charm.

If I thought there was any interest I could make some up with a higher quality plastic. It would still have to be taped down, though.

IMG_3214 (resized).JPGIMG_3214 (resized).JPG

IMG_3213 (resized).JPGIMG_3213 (resized).JPG

#11855 10 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I've never seen this hinge before. Can anyone give me any information about it? Who made it, is it still available and such?

You could get a couple of 3" decals from Ebay to put on your hinges. Guarantee you no one will know the difference---if they even notice them.

ebay.com link: itm

#11859 10 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Flat Iron Building turned up today and I am happy with it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's PFC. But it does not look like it will work on my Premium.

#11863 9 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

at the moment Pro only and one pinsider has sent me a few photos and measurements so I can determine what changes are needed for the Premium / LE and if it will take away from the look, otherwise a Pro only mod.

Perhaps you can pull it forward and have it sitting out over the top the the captive ball. It would not be in the way of anything.

#11866 9 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Big Thanks to BoilerUp as sent me a bunch of photos and measurements - so will check in the next 1-2 days to see what is needed to change if it can be done without spoiling the look.

Can you show pics of the bottom side and how it mounts up?

#11868 9 months ago
Quoted from Caponicus:

Marco has premium/le plastics in stock. Wish they had this 6 months ago when I was going down rabbit holes looking for it.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/803-5000-H6

It is nice this kit is being made, but what would be nicer if whoever is making this kit would just make the parts that are needed instead of the entire kit.

I fail to see anyone needing that large piece that goes across the back. And who would need the plastic that fits the firehouse? Stuff like that.

#11870 9 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Ya I with you could just buy the needed plastics but they are hoping you buy the whole set for one or two pieces like I did!

Which ones of your plastics were broken?

#11872 9 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

The one under the library!

How did that one get broken?

$249.00 for a kit for any one plastic is out on the edge.

#11875 9 months ago

Looks to me like you can mod that mounting plate and push the building forward the 1/2" inch or so to make room for Slimer. All it will do is sort of cover over the captive ball. Even if you have to move it forward a full inch, I think you still have room.

#11877 9 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I have a set of 3D buildings to sell for a discount. Just so anyone knows, they aren't compatible with a walking Stay Puft and if you already have your Wolffcub Firehouse, you'd have to take it out to get the building in on that side.

Could you do some cutting and gluing by taking the factory flat plastic building and cut the top off and take the 3D building and cut the bottom off and superglue the two remaining pieces together to get the clearance you need ?

#11879 9 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I repositioned one of the towers forward because I thought the hand was the only thing pushing on the building, but it turns out the entire bottom of the 3D building pushes against his rotund belly. On the premium, there's not enough clearance to move them forward. I repositioned the tower back.

This why I am asking if the lower part of the flat factory building could be mated to the top half of the 3D building.

Actually, I think you could use the flat factory building in its entirety and then cut the top of the 3D building to just above the the subway mounting bracket and then glue the top of the 3D building to the front of the flat building. This cut would allow the 3D building to clear the bracket and move forward and the flat plastic gives you the clearance you need. You can't see any of the 3D building that sits below the subway bracket anyway.

I am not going to chop up my 3D building to "show how it's done" but I think you can keep your 3D building and the walking Sta' Puft---if you want to.

IMG_3386 (resized).JPGIMG_3386 (resized).JPG
#11880 9 months ago

Nothing here. I hit the wrong button.

#11885 9 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Whelp, he's not adding people to his list anymore. :/

Looks like you re stuck with me

4 weeks later
#11918 8 months ago

I bought a Wolfcub firehouse mod for my premium and no longer need this shell mod that sits on top of the firehouse. I have it for sale in the marketplace.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/160166

IMG_3590 (resized).jpgIMG_3590 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#11927 8 months ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Anyone have this problem? The ball gets stuck on this gate sometimes as it can only raise until it hits the plastic. Loosening the plastic retaining nut to the right of the gate will usually allow the gate to slightly push the plastic up when the ball passes and allow it through. I didn't want to shim the plastic up as it creates a light gap along the pf ball guide. Bending the gate up or down won't work as the wire is still stopped by the plastic either way. I am guessing the pink balls are a slightly larger diameter?
[quoted image]

Do you have room to straighten out the wire gate just a little bit? I look at mine and I think you can tweak the gate so it is a little bit higher for the ball to pass under. But you will have to remove the plastic, and maybe a couple of other parts to get the gate bracket.

That is a fairly hefty wire so you may have to remove it from the bracket to get the leverage you need to bend the wire.

It is just a one-way gate so tweaking it should not cause problems as those balls don't get that much action.

#11932 8 months ago
Quoted from big-c66:

Man just noticed the clear coat has come completely off were the ball drops down at the containment unit everything thing else looks good. I bought this from someone who had it on route for 5,800$ 6 months ago it’s one of my favorites and it’s not going anywhere.
So I’m seriously thinking about tearing it down and redo the clear coat sense I’ve done paint and body work for 30 years.
What is everyone thought do it or not.

Without seeing any pictures, I would be inclined to suggest you just touch up the affected area. Clean up any marks in the wood, use an artist's brush to touch up the clear and perhaps place a small piece of mylar for future protection.

#11935 8 months ago

What happened?

Do you still have the piece(s) that have been torn off?

You might be able to glue the pieces back onto the play field.

#11939 8 months ago
Quoted from Meadows22:

I'm not entirely sure. I just acquired the game on trade. I just came across it doing a shop. I can use wood filler to bring up the wood, my main concern is to try and match the paint as best as I can

I don't know if this a Pro play field, but I don't see anything I recognize on my Premium. It might be to you advantage to find a local artist schooled in matching the colors from the Pantone book and is skilled in detail brush work. Especially, if the area is in the wide open.

#11944 8 months ago
Quoted from Meadows22:

It's a premium playfield. It's the right outlane. I just removed the post to show damage.

My thoughts would be to make a scan from a good play field and make a waterslide decal and then hit the decal with some clear coat. It is sort of an out of the way place on the play field and a decal would hide easily. I have a scanner that would do that job and can make the decal but there are a lot of parts that have to be removed to get a good scan.

2 weeks later
#11961 7 months ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

Thanks for the recommendation - just to clarify, are you referring to one of the metal layers within the housing? Found a screenshot for reference.
[quoted image]

Just so you know, the screen shot you linked is for the Premium style of Slimer mechs. The Pro uses something a little different.

#11966 7 months ago
Quoted from rob3:

Hey all, just picked up a ghostbusters pro. Slimer is not working consistently, in test mode he will work a bit but then the motor will squeal a bit and and he stops. If I disconnect CN1 from the motor controller board (at least I assume that's what it is - the one with the green light which dims when you disconnect it) and then reconnect it it will work again shortly but then stop working and do the squeal again.
Also restarting the game he will work he will go down and then sometimes back up, but that's it. Seems like it's binding but not sure what to do to further troubleshoot. thx for any advice!

I suggest calling Stern tech support. They did a good job of answering my questions.

#11969 7 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I’m having an opposite issue on my pro. I have the V1 Slimer braided wire design and am getting false registers. I took it apart and the wire is fraying so I cut up a strip of metal and formed it around the wire. That worked great for a while, but getting false hits again when Slimer is just dangling there. I can’t find V2 Slimer parts/kits anywhere and think I should start with that change, if I could find what I need to do. Anyone have ideas? The whole assy is out of stock or just not available at the places I normally buy parts from.

Call Stern tech support. No guarantees they can help you but it is a better shot than what you have now. And it will let Stern know the problems you/we are dealing with.

i got nothing but positive vibes from the 2 customer reps I talked to. They understand that for people to continue to pay big bucks for a pinball machine that it better be able to work for way beyond 6 to 8 years.

#11978 7 months ago
Quoted from FamDocKevin:

My son checked into his University apartment for the fall semester yesterday. In their community room was this. Set to Free Play! [quoted image]

Looks like the the left side of the back box is scraping against the wall.

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