No. But you need to get some glue in there from the top>down (gravity will send the glue down from the top) , clamp it, let dry over night before removing the clamps. Then add the inside bracket which can help keep it in place, but it wont pull in back together.
Use the long clamps found at home depot, Menards, or your favorite hardware store.
I have several of these clamps. I use them all the time. They work great on all sorts of things.

Ok, so I feel like a cheater...
I now have moved the outlane posts from the center holes to the bottom holes. I needed to try something to help me to have more fun playing this pin. It's turned into a real love/hate relationship! No other pin has ever made me this angry. I frequently want to punch the glass! Yet I want to keep playing it. It's addicting!
The center drains are BRUTAL, the outlane drains are almost as bad, the scoleri brothers are pure evil, and the magna-slings are possesed. Anyone out there on the fence about buying this pin should get some blood pressure meds ready cause you're going to need them!

Oh and by the way, the right post wasn't difficult to move. You just need to remove the nuts and the screws holding down the Rick Moranis plastic. And then you can just rotate that plastic and get to the post.

Junky

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I think the L bracket is an excellent idea. I may pick up a couple from the hardware store when I get a chance.

That is good intel.

Thanks.

I forgot to mention that I also removed the metal track from the right ramp. That allowed me to lift the plastic above the hex post for easy rotation.

I have the same love/hate relationship!

I moved my posts down too, but honestly haven't noticed ANY difference.

I'm thinking about getting these.....

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1058-yoyokopter-mods/00752-save-post-for-ghostbusters-by-yoyokopter

same here, didnt noticed real difference while moving post (its now at medium settings, with small rubbers on the metal lane)
the Yoyo mods are nice (for having playtested the 1st version, it even close too much, think the new/actual version must just be perfect now)

...

and about cabs being "broken" as it at the angle, i just cant understand that on new pins !?
OK about reinforcement, but what seems better & logical in your case is just a swap with a new cab !

anyway good luck with these :/

Hate to ask you to post a picture Chuck but could you show us people who are not handymen what kind of clamp that you are talking about? These cabinets separating like this is concerning. That would really suck.

I like the idea, but the price seems quite high for two small plastics.

Always slip a piece of wood between the clamp the thing being clamped to prevent any marks or indentations.
I used clamps to squeeze back together several of my arcade machines which separated (before I bought them)
I have at least 4 big ones like this. They come even longer yet.
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Oh ok cool I've seen those. Thanks for posting that, I'm sure that will help somebody out that's having trouble.

I moved mine down too. I usually set my games up very hard but this pin just felt like it was cheating you the entire time. After making a few tweaks here and there and also leaning the geometry better it is growing on me. I was ready to set it on fire after a couple of days though.

For anyone that has a bought a Prem that was built in March or April, did Stern fix any of the issues I've read about (Slimmer rubbing on playfield, any ramp/outline issues, etc.?)

What are ramp/outline issues?

Ramp? I've not heard of any ramp issues.
Possibly the right ramp. Its not broken but its easier to make if you swap out the 2" hex-post for a 1-3/4" or a 1-5/8" post.

Outlane: In the past, the outlane guide were kind of low.
Newer machine owners have reported the lane wires seemed higher with less to no issues (easily fixed either way)

Slimer rubbing: Slimer has rubbed on various things over the history of production. In most cases this can be adjusted if you get a machine with some sort of Slimer rubbing.

Thank you for the quick responses. Looking to purchase a Prem and this makes me feel better about doing so!

I believe the PF issues are in the rear view mirror, but I would be concerned about the cabinet issues (namely the weak joints and the separations of the wood in many games). So if you do buy one, I would grab the re-enforced leg brackets and also re-enforce the corners of the cab on the inside (perhaps by adding an L bracket)

I was thinking about this last night. An L bracket placed high in the front L&R corners could interfere with the playfield I'm going to look at it ASAP and see if there is enough room for that to be feasible.

Side Note: I do not see enough organized documentation to prove this is widespread problem. Its definitely disturbing to see the photos, but when you read the details there's very little actual documentation.
One Batman 66 with split seem is on location (who knows what happened there)
The smart move would be to create list of machines with serial number , title, build date, HUO or Routed.
At present we have at the most 12-15 machines with seam issues. Titles: BM66, Areosmith, recent Ghostbusters (last 3 machines)

You can add mine to the list, HUO, never moved after install a week ago, no shaker, legs are not over-tightened. waiting to see what JJ@game exchange/stern does before I start my gripes. heh. True, we don't know if the problem is wide spread yet, but at the very least, it's concerning. If I were considering buying one now, I would at least like to know so I could ask more questions before purchasing.

I was planning to order a Ghostbusters premium this week but then heard about the cabinet issues. I called Stern to ask about the issue and if I should wait a month or two to order. I was quickly told there is no issue with cabinets and that every once in a while one doesn't get enough glue...There are now too many people reporting the problem for it to be just a one off issue.

I am hoping that is the case (one off glue issue) and that I can report back in a few days that the issue is being rectified to my satisfaction and that it is indeed an issue of limited exposure.

Thanks for the update. Can you reply with your cabinet date (back of the machine) ?
Did you inspect the sides when you unboxed it?
Were the corners fine upon opening or were they already splitting?

Yours is a good example of what we need to document.
* Picture of the issue: ????
* Cabinet Date: ????
* Condition at the time of unboxing: ????
* Machine shipped from Game Exchange to purchaser.
* Home Use Only
* Never moved after install
* In place 1 week
* No shaker
* Legs not over-tightened.

The price includes shipping costs world wide with tracking number, paypal fees and the cost of the Pinside shop

My Pro is up and playing with a new node board thanks to Melissa at Cointaker. She's the BEST! I installed a 8 way power distro board powered by a 6 amp wall wort for my 12v mods so no more power screw ups.

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Was not split after unboxing that I noticed at least, will grab the other details once I hear from JJ (I dont want to move it around ATM to look @ the back) but I hope for that to be within the next 24hrs.

Does anyone know if it's possible to reset just one high score?

I tried setting high score 4 back to the default but it didn't seem to work.

Hello everyone! i'm new here to pinside and to this club. i'm going to pickup my used HUO ghostbusters LE in about 2 weeks. i'm super excited as this is the first modern pinball ive ever owned plus im a huge ghostbusters fan! before this i only have a ugly but fully functional Mr and Mrs pacman and a old Chicago coin gold record. Anyway back on topic, are there any absolute must have mods or accessories for this machine? I've been looking at a lot of the stuff on the market as well as online and the all look amazing. should i get the playfield protector? i'd like to keep this machine and id like it to stay as nice as possible as long as possible. also what does everyone think of the topper? i kinda like it kinda don't. Thanks for your time everyone!

Welcome to Pinside and the club. I'd suggest getting these HD leg supports and putting them on your game as soon as you get it. I have them on the front legs of my Pro and that thing is rock solid now. Take the original ones off and put these on. Marco or Pinballlife has them.

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Welcome aboard Kid,
Just installed, consider these two...

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Welcome aboard!

Art's airball protector is a must have. He makes one in a clear and one with a decal on it (I prefer the clear myself). It seems he's archived the ad so not sure what's going on with that but I'd reach out to him to see if he still has some: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/38847

A lot of people recommend the outlane plastic too. I haven't picked one up yet so I'm not sure who the go to person on Pinside is for that. Maybe someone else can chime in there?

As for the topper...since you're a big GB fan (same here by the way) I'd recommend getting it. It's pricey and probably not really worth it unless you're either a big GB fan or someone who has to have a topper on all of their machines.

I'd also recommend looking into the Stern art blades. They add a lot to the look, in my opinion.

Congrats on your new game. You're going to love it! I purchased my GBLE the day the game was officially announced and received it the first week Stern was shipping games here in the US and I absolutely love it. It sits in my GB themed arcade room right next to my Real Ghostbusters arcade!

Ecto-1 rolled into my driveway @ 1:30am. Thanks to a great Pinsider, Ballypin. Love this game.

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Just had this powder job done what do you guys think ?? Went Stay Puff themed with it Doing the shooter as well but it needs to be redone. Very sparkly but hard to see in pics .

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so during game modes (or potentially any time during the game) if the ball save occurs does your game allow the reshot to be sent all the way around to left flipper b/c mine is always stopped by the gate and drops down to bumpers. Just realized this is always the case with ball save auto reshot.

also - what is the general strategy you guys are using? Right now I have been going ball one mode shot on plunge, then drive modes (usually right show - who brought the dog) then work into MB by hitting that stationary ball. What is your approach?

the target wedges are now available, also mentioned in the GB issue thread.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

they come in single or pairs and the pairs is more affordable
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cut the 2 branches off to look like this
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remove the targets and install the wedge
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and you will need 1 x longer bolt as the current one just a fraction too short. For more info check out the link. This basically turns the target into more of a bally / wms style and keeps the ball down and greatly reduces airballs - still get a minor hop but no massive airballs anymore.

Im currently out of stock on air ball protectors, but will have an ETA this week.
The clear protectors for the outlane, protect against sling plastic breakage, as well as lane hops.
Its the lowest price in the market, at $25.

Another choice, is Swinks angles, above, Im sure it greatly reduces airballs, but as even with mine, A few squeek out, which is better
than all the time.

One final touch art blades

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I had some non pin guests over....out of 25 games, I asked which looked most interesting, the game they wanted to play most.
The top 3 were WOZ, TWD, and TSPP,
But by a 3 time margin GB won out before,
and after play! The simple answer was it was
more Fun!

At its base, it does this well!

Your done modding the game now?

For now but I reserve the right to add more lol

I see. Don't forget about mine.

You have the leg lights right ?

Yup.

I love the blue. Is it possible to change out the t-molding in the upper cabinet to blue too?

https://www.t-molding.com/t-molding-by-color.html

Yes you are right guess I am not done lol