Heres a mod i just did on my library step 1 take a blow dryer heat up the library a little step 2 take a utility knife razor Cut how u like or like mine took mabey 15 min i took my time step 3 drilled a small hole to run the wires underneath the library step 4 choose any color led light i used purple for the haunted look i attached my wires to the spinner flasher pics do no justice hope you like enjoy

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Looks damn good!

Happy to say that I am officially a member of this club now )

Game is gorgeous. I added a different airball protector than Art's (odd, I actually looked in the marketplace and searched for all mods for GB and couldnt find it at the time last week) as well as the ecto goggles protector (the clear one that wraps around the whole thing) that I saw on Junky's GB premium.

Happy to say that I did not need to adjust the left side kick out (currently, it bounces off right flipper), also the scolari brothers drop down targets seem to work fine out of the box for me (any decent hit will drop them).

I did end up adjusting slimer today, 1: it seemed like only a perfect dead on on right in the middle smack would cause a registered hit, so I made it more sensitive (thanks for the advice Junky!) 2: while adjusting the switch, I wondered of raising the assembly up slightly would keep slimey from hitting the bracket on his way down, low and behold it did.

Very happy so far

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Congrats!

Stuff is in Pinside shops, or a persons shop is found next to their name, in this case, Arts Arcade.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1043-arts-arcade

These are just colored gels that are cut and taped to the underside of the playfield. I just wanted to get ride of most of the white inserts. The 4 flashers at the slings were just too bright for my taste- so i used a blue and red gel .They are very cheap and used for photography and stage lighting.

I used blue on the 4 scene ladder, green on the 3 scene ladder and Slimer flasher, and magenta on the 2 scene ladder.I will probably use red on the Terror Dog Hurry-up.

I agree it makes it challenging to move that post. I removed the Terror Dog plastic via the 2 screws and 3/16" locknuts and slide the plastic and riveted portion under the subway exit.

I slowly backed the right lane post up after taking the under playfield nut off by lightly tapping on it with a small rubber hammer. Ever so gently bent the plastics above and managed to get the post out and moved down to the lowest spot. The funny thing is.... doesn't seem to help with the drains directly but it does if you use a nudge. It was worth it.

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Ill make a video of game play tomorrow

I agree. I never close up outlines on a game, if anything I usually open them to make it harder. However in order to me from setting this pin on fire after every other game I closed these up.

All the insert lighting are the board type not the socket type. You can use a colored gel film to cover the insert on the underside to change the white led to any color.

** Carefully cut mylar pieces to fit in the bottom and around the top edge is the best you can do for this saucer.
I have to say, I don't know how often Stern put this design on previous machines , but its a poor design.
The Premium has a nice protected port (hole) with Stern-Cliffy, while the pro has no protection at all in this spot and I see no way that Cliffy could help with that saucer, other than to create a press-molded metal tray with adhesive backing.

Welcome to the club. Let the modding begin.

The Premium is worth the upgrade cost. I'm glad to hear current units are working well out of the box.

Slimer has plenty of room for tweaking (mechanically).
I've not heard of his butt scraping the city before. His hand yes, but not butt.
I wonder if the cable is bit longer on the current slimer?
Pictures would be good. People have added a washer at top of the rotating rod.
This will raise him away from the playfield but raise him over the city a bit.
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I just got my machine a couple of days ago and have been busy installing all the mods I purchased ahead of time. The game is cool as it is but once you start upgrading sound, leds, topper, etc.. it really transforms the game. Ive onkly played 5-6 games so far but I think the slimers behaves the same way.

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Damn does that game look good! Congrats. I'll be ordering a premium in another week or two. How do you like the topper so far?

Its a really nice topper but I just wish they integrated more of it into the code. Fingers crossed they will.

its easy to install all. I had to cut the rings on my flipper fidelity speaker to accommodate the RGB lighting so I had enough backbox clearance. Cutting the speaker ring was a PITA as I didn't want to damage the speaker cone.I also went with the 10" woofer and I am glad I did.

The hardest thing to install was the art blades. I spray the back of them with soap and water and slipped them in the narrow crevice between the PF and side wall. Thank God I wet them otherwise it would have been a nightmare to re position.

Hey there- our machines are brothers!! Mine was built on 12/8/16 too! How funny!

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If you are referring to this kit https://mezelmods.com/collections/ghostbusters-pinball-mods/products/ghostbusters-pinball-backbox-illumination

I used this 8-Way Power Splitter Board For Stern Pinball Machines Using The SPIKE System

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4248

I order the parts to install tournament button. I've been getting conflicting info on if you need a diode or not. Has anyone successfuly put one in on a ghostbusters?

Here are the Pinball Life part #'s
500-6587-06-TL Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly - Cabinet Mounting
1N4004 Diode 1N4004

I also will be adding a lock down bar as those latches are silly.

500-6881-00 Stern Front Molding Lockdown Bar Receiver Assembly
500-6882-02-00 Stern/Sega/Data East Black Front Molding Lockdown Bar - No Tournament Button Hole

I don't have that . I have a 5v connector.

That is the one to get if you plan on more then 1 mod that would normally plug into the node board in the cabinet under the left flipper button. I tried plugging in 3 mods into that one and fried the node board. After it fried my buddy told me that Stern had sent out a warning not to plug a bunch of mods into that outlet. I now have a 12v, 6 amp wall wort converter plugged into the 110 service outlet in the bb and that is plugged into the 8 way splitter. No power problems for mods now.

Art blades are easier if you remove the pf. Only 3 connectors and its out. Also if you do not press the decal down hard, you can peel it off several times to reposition until you are happy. I usual do wet application but these decals are nice thick vinyl and can take a bit of a beating

Ok I've got a question for all that have installed lighting mods.
I've heard some GB owners have damaged node boards with too many light mods.

I understand mods such as under cab lighting and even GI lighting can be powered off its own power source, but...
How about mods like Mezel-Mods green scoop flashers?
These type of mods rely on node bd logic to do their thing.
How many of such mods crosses the line and becomes risky?

**Disclaimer: This is not a criticism of mezel-mod or any seller.
Its about thinking big picture: How many of these Node bd dependent light-mods becomes a hazard to the spike system.

If you have more than 2 light mods running off the spike node bds, please post your results.
Examples..
Right Scoop light mod by Mezel Mod
Left scoop light mod by Mezel Mod
PKE skill shot display by Mezel Mod
Ghost Trap by Mezel Mod

Interested in knowing as well. I didn't realize that most light mods get powered from the LED node boards. I ordered the left and right LED scoop mods from mezel for my game. If I'm only going to be running these two light mods should I be ok?

Yup, This is what I'm looking at. I've reached out to Kristin for her advice on this subject.
I also just read the install directions for those scoop lights. They connect to the GI playfield spots.
That's ok but I would like to consider connecting them to the flashers associated with the out kick of each scoop.
I've seen at least one video where this was done. The wiring change would be easy enough. I just need to make sure flashers run on the same voltage (5V) as the GI.
If you want the lights to stay on all the time, then running them off of an external power source would also be an option..

Yeah the flashers are 5v.

I have my home made scoop lights connected to gi bulbs so they are on all the time with no problems.

I played a ghost busters in a mall the other day and have been thinking about getting one. Anyone care to share what price they ended up paying. I guess depending on cost I'd like a premium but might go with a pro.

Thanks, Rob

If you don't have a local distributor near you, then your best option might be CoinTaker. Its not just about money. Customer Care is important. I've heard only good things about CT. I have emailed Melissa with questions and she always responds promptly.
I'm looking at an Alien machine and CT is currently my 1st choice.

BTW: If you can swing it, the Premium is worth every bit of the extra cost in my opinion.

http://cointaker.com/products/ghostbusters-pinball-premium

One of these you mean?

Just got mine
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This is great! This is from Cliffy I assume.

Yup. Hot off the press. I was bugging Cliff for a while for one of these. It's a much needed addition I feel. I don't have a ton of play on my game and I can already see the edges of the trough starting to get chewed up a bit.

In terms of how modes are played is there an option to enable the next mode to automatically start when one is completed as well as an option to force the player to hit a mode start shot for the next mode? I think I may have seen both options in gameplay videos but I'm not sure which one is default.

Maybe.

If the last shot on a scene is the beginning shot for another scene, that next scene will start automatically. For example, if you hit the left ramp as the last shot of "who brought the dog", you will start the next middle ladder scene.

Rob

Ask and ye shall receive!!!! Cool!! Can anyone else comment on must have Cliffys for gb. This one seems to be the first one specifically for gb.

**Emailed cliff stay tuned****

I'd definitely do the whole shooter lane Cliffy setup including the protector around the ball trough eject opening. These are a must for any game I feel. I also added the one for the drain and inlane rollover where the ball drops from the ramp. I had the scoleri bros protectors in as well but took them out because they were launching balls all over the place. They interfered way too much with the game play. Some people don't seem to have an issue with them though.

You can ask Cliff for the GB full kit and you'll get everything included in there. I'm sure the Storage Facility protector will be included now for the Pro kit.

Nice! Is that a pain to get to and install? Does that much need to come off? Gonna order one

Not gonna lie....it wasn't fun.

You have to disconnect any wires going to the ramp at the underside of the playfield to give you some play to move the ramp out of the way. There's 7 or 8 screws/bolts holding the entire ramp down. Get those out and just move the ramp a little to one side so you can access the plastic underneath. Remove the plastic and the two posts on either side of the storage facility trough and you're ready to install the protector. It's not as bad as I feared it would be. Cliff was nice enough to write up some pretty detailed instructions on how to do all that. I can forward that to anyone that needs it.

GB Pro was my first NIB game and one of my first games period. I enjoy the game except for one thing: The Scoleri Brothers. If it were just annoying as they get in your way and keep coming back until you hit both of them within a time frame, that would be OK but they cause so many airballs as well and frequently didn't drop with hard, direct hits. The combination had me saying "oh no, the Scoleri Brothers!" every time they popped up so I turned them off and it is so much better. Did anyone else have this problem and have a solution that works better? Thank you for your responses.

Is it supposed to drop every time? I hit it hard 3 times last night and it didn't budge. Finally went down on its own I think. Just got the game so not familiar yet.

They are supposed to drop with one hit. The odd thing about mine was that they would almost always drop with soft/indirect hits but not always with direct, hard hits. It was difficult to hit them any other way, however, as the flippers are strong and they are so close. I feel like they should be further back, like at the mouth of the lane/ramp they are trying to block; I believe that would have fixed the problems with them. Hopefully somebody else has a better solution that doesn't involve impossible scenarios or just turning them off.

I had a hard time with them when I first got my game as well. I tried the pinball life replacement springs but those don't work well. There was so much tension that one of the targets wouldn't even stay up after a while. The thing that worked for me was to just stretch out the stock springs like 10-12 loops and now the targets drop perfectly. Just a little nudge with the ball will drop them. Works great!

I also had some pretty stiff Scoleri drops. For me, I just dealt with it for a couple weeks and they are now wore in a drop like they are supposed to. I know "breaking them in" doesn't sound like a fun solution, but I also know people have had trouble with spring kits and other mods as well. Maybe just give it some plays and see if they loosen up?