Quoted from freddy:yes cross your arms put right hand on left flipper and left hand on right flipper buttons. and go to town!
Hahaha. i had no idea. Once i drained in about 5 seconds, they were fine
Quoted from freddy:yes cross your arms put right hand on left flipper and left hand on right flipper buttons. and go to town!
Hahaha. i had no idea. Once i drained in about 5 seconds, they were fine
Quoted from cnuts13:Just got mass hysteria for the first time. Is it normal for the flippers to act strange during that mode?
Lol....this just gave me a good chuckle!
It sure doesn't seem normal does it?
Quoted from cnuts13:Hahaha. i had no idea. Once i drained in about 5 seconds, they were fine
did you get midnight madness yet? ( if not adjust your time so midnight is at a time that you usually play. i have mine set that 10:00pm is midnight so if i have guests over they get the experience!) enjoy!
I am building a hardware fix for those reversed flippers during mass hysteria. It will automatically set the flippers to operate correctly during the programmed mass hysteria reversal.
My biggest pet peeve on the game. It'll be gone soon. I'm on it.
Quoted from ramegoom:I am building a hardware fix for those reversed flippers during mass hysteria. It will automatically set the flippers to operate correctly during the programmed mass hysteria reversal.
My biggest pet peeve on the game. It'll be gone soon. I'm on it.
Then they would be operating "incorrectly", because that's how the mode is designed.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yup I fried U14 on the node board inside the cab by the coin door. Am I stupid or what.
Looks like a switch mode power supply IC. If you can read the part number on the top of it, you can order one from Digikey for a couple bucks. Who knows what else got damaged. Damage isn't always visible. Might be worth a shot, though.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yup I fried U14 on the node board inside the cab by the coin door. Am I stupid or what.
Ouch, Paul!
Quoted from Allibaster:Looks like a switch mode power supply IC. If you can read the part number on the top of it, you can order one from Digikey for a couple bucks. Who knows what else got damaged. Damage isn't always visible. Might be worth a shot, though.
replacing that part would be such a PITA though
Quoted from arcadenerd925:replacing that part would be such a PITA though
Surface mount is actually pretty easy. I prefer it much more than through hole. That part is an SOIC, so it's not too small. Surface mount pads usually don't have a lot of thermal mass, so the IC pins lift with very little heat.
When putting the part back on, add some flux, line up the part, then solder one of the corner pins. The others just need a little heat, and you're good to go.
Quoted from Sinestro:Then they would be operating "incorrectly", because that's how the mode is designed.
Yep, incorrect is good for this feature. Stern should have given us an option to turn it off. And if some future upgrade gives it to us, then it will no longer be incorrect.
But I'm impatient, and can't wait.
Quoted from Allibaster:Looks like a switch mode power supply IC. If you can read the part number on the top of it, you can order one from Digikey for a couple bucks. Who knows what else got damaged. Damage isn't always visible. Might be worth a shot, though.
That's waaaaay beyond what I can do and like you said who knows what else got damaged. Thanks though. Melissa at CT is looking into it.
Quoted from scarybeard:just replaced the 3 red LEDs on the back of the playfield with purple, and the stacked books red captive ball light with green. Game looks so much better. more 'night time-y'. Pics don't do it justice. Try it out.
try red or blue in place of the two white bulbs.
Does anyone have a picture of the stern rails from PBL installed on a pro? I couldn't find a good place to attach them to the PF. Also, the screws appeared to give about 1/8 of an inch of clearence before poping through the other side of the play field.
Quoted from pinden007:Does anyone have a picture of the stern rails from PBL installed on a pro? I couldn't find a good place to attach them to the PF. Also, the screws appeared to give about 1/8 of an inch of clearence before poping through the other side of the play field.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I think he means the playfield support rails. Btw, nice baby pac. Great game.
Yes. My bad.
Quoted from pinden007:Does anyone have a picture of the stern rails from PBL installed on a pro? I couldn't find a good place to attach them to the PF. Also, the screws appeared to give about 1/8 of an inch of clearence before poping through the other side of the play field.
There are 2 nutserts in front of holes for the stock pegs. I removed the pegs and used those for the front then just used available open space for the back screws. Actuall I can't remember if the nutserts were there or if I put them there.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I think he means the playfield support rails. Btw, nice baby pac. Great game.
Yes it is... but not its not mine. That was a pic from another pinside member I saved a while back.
So the under PF glide rails....
I've seen those installed. I think PBL has a shot.. Here ya go...
glides (resized).jpg
Quoted from chucksmith:Yes it is... but not its not mine. That was a pic from another pinside member I saved a while back.
So the under PF glide rails....
I've seen those installed. I think PBL has a shot.. Here ya go...
Thanks. I was hoping to have a picture from underneath from someone who installed it on a GB. I didn't really find a clear spot for either rail to screw in (when using the predrilled hole next to the pegs.
Getting a node board runtime update failure on a GB pro. Can someone look at the solenoid driver node board located under the playfield near the trough? I believe with the game on and running I should see a flickering yellow and green LED and a steady red LED. I only have a steady red LED.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Here's the left side front. The big hole in the middle of the first shot is the peg hole. The right side is the same.
Where did you find space for the other ends?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Or this one.
When the playfield is flipped up against the backbox, the one located at the extreme upper left. I believe it's the third one of your pictures as it only has one RJ45 cable plugged into it. With the game on and running (coin door closed) I believe there should be a red, green and yellow LEDs lit. Thanks.
Quoted from pinden007:Where did you find space for the other ends?
Just match up the front holes and you see where to put the back screws.
Quoted from schudel5:When the playfield is flipped up against the backbox, the one located at the extreme upper left. I believe it's the third one of your pictures as it only has one RJ45 cable plugged into it. With the game on and running (coin door closed) I believe there should be a red, green and yellow LEDs lit. Thanks.
My game is down so I can't check those lights. I need a new board that's in the first 2 pictures. Do the 2 leds on that board light for you?
Quoted from MustangPaul:My game is down so I can't check those lights. I need a new board that's in the first 2 pictures. Do the 2 leds on that board light for you?
Only the red one labeled 48V. There should be a green 6V and a yellow comm light, both of those don't light.
Quoted from 30FathomDave:I have the Slimer shooter from Pinball Customs. It's awesome, but a word or warning: Brock does great work, but he is slooooooow when it comes to fulfilling orders. Mine took about 5 months to receive from the time I ordered it.
What's your dog doing in the background.
Quoted from schudel5:Only the red one labeled 48V. There should be a green 6V and a yellow comm light, both of those don't light.
What about the other board?
Quoted from MustangPaul:What about the other board?
All fine. I'm heading out to run diagnostics on it and try different ethernet cables.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Just match up the front holes and you see where to put the back screws.
There is no room. Always on top of something or major tension butted up against something. If they were 2 inches shorter it would fit.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Left side.
Right side.
Just bend the left side back a little bit. Mine works perfect.
That's a lot of torque on 2 tiny screws. I'll take another look. Thanks
Quoted from pinden007:That's a lot of torque on 2 tiny screws. I'll take another look. Thanks
just screw it up!
Quoted from pinden007:That's a lot of torque on 2 tiny screws. I'll take another look. Thanks
No it's not, the pf doesn't weigh 200lbs ya know. They handle it just fine. I've had mine on for almost a tear and used a lot and they are still as solid as the day I put them on.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Alright you crazy LED freaks, check out this new custom lighting option for all pinball machines.
http://pinstadium.com
Looks interesting.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Looks interesting.
The always on portion is half warm or cool white, half full spectrum led that can be changed at any point via your cell phone.
Flasher strip added at an option can be jumpered to multiple flashers of the game if you want. The flasher strip is limited to one color of your choice.
Quoted from MustangPaul:No it's not, the pf doesn't weigh 200lbs ya know. They handle it just fine. I've had mine on for almost a tear and used a lot and they are still as solid as the day I put them on.
I meant torque on the screws due to bending the support rail. Is it possible that our pf's top and bottom are not identical.
That would explain why the air ball protector didnt fit either without some adjustments.
Quoted from pinden007:I meant torque on the screws due to bending the support rail. Is it possible that our pf's top and bottom are not identical.
I know what you meant and it's not a problem, your over thinking this. I don't see why they aren't the same.
Quoted from imagamejunky:These are my opinions.
I believe the second issue you're describing may be due to the ball floating over the rollover switch in the orbit without actually activating it. I think the electric gate may only open after the rollover switch is activated. This may explain why some plunges and orbit shots go around above the lanes, and some hit the closed gate and go into the lanes.
My other theory is that the electric gate randomly opens with some plunges/orbit shots. I asked Chas at Stern about this and he didn't know.
Junky
I was wrong. After further investigation I can see that the electric gate opens after a plunge BEFORE the ball reaches the rollover switch in the orbit. The variance must be with coding then. However, I can't tell when the gate opens (or doesn't?) in a hard orbit shot from the flipper. Is it supposed to open every time for the orbit shot? Is it supposed to open when the ball rolls over the switch?
Quoted from imagamejunky:I was wrong. After further investigation I can see that the electric gate opens after a plunge BEFORE the ball reaches the rollover switch in the orbit. The variance must be with coding then. However, I can't tell when the gate opens (or doesn't?) in a hard orbit shot from the flipper. Is it supposed to open every time for the orbit shot? Is it supposed to open when the ball rolls over the switch?
Based on my slow motion filming, the gate opens when the switch following the ecto-goggles just hits.
(pros its right there after the shooter lane exit) -
The ball rolls over the wire pressing the switch, hopefully right away before the ball completely presses the wire actuator down.
Does it do it every single time? Depends on code and where you are in the game, and which direction the ball is flowing.
* If you do a manual full plunge , the gate should open every time.
* If you do a left flip up to the right-to-left orbit and it goes through and lands on the left flipper, It should repeat again and again.
* Auto Plunge (ball save) I don't think this will ever let the ball past the gate. The ball should be blocked and fall to the pops.
I'm seeing a lot of node board failure. This is disappointing for a game hardly 1 year old. Is there a pattern developing with specific boards going, or does it seem random? And what is the cause of these board failures?
I've had my GBLE going strong so far, but it's discouraging to keep reading about node board failures.
*knocks on wood*
Quoted from Gunnder:I'm seeing a lot of node board failure. This is disappointing for a game hardly 1 year old. Is there a pattern developing with specific boards going, or does it seem random? And what is the cause of these board failures?
I've had my GBLE going strong so far, but it's discouraging to keep reading about node board failures.
*knocks on wood*
I caused mine.
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