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(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!


By 30FathomDave

4 years ago



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#2451 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I have one of these SPIKE power splitters in the backbox of my GB, and I love it!
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4248
It has a magnetic base, so you just stick it wherever you want. It's great for powering mods like speaker lights, toppers, ColorDMDs, etc ...

I have soooo many 12v mods that I have one of those back there too but mine is powered by a 12v 3 amp wall wort plugged into the 110v service outlet so it doesn't tax the game power board.

#2452 3 years ago

I'd like to modify some of the flashers in this game.

First, I'd like to change the under-Slimer color from white to green. I'd also like to change the flasher in front of the fire house to maybe green and tone it down quite a bit. They're all PCB LEDs. Is anyone away of a diffuser tape to change the color and/or dim the brightness?

Second, I'd also like to change the two flashers in the backboard inside the trap. Both of these look like standard bulbs. Are they #89s?

#2453 3 years ago

Yes but they are 5v. As far as I know none of the LED suppliers carry them yet.

#2454 3 years ago

Cointaker is the only one and they only have white.

Quoted from Allibaster:

First, I'd like to change the under-Slimer color from white to green. I'd also like to change the flasher in front of the fire house to maybe green and tone it down quite a bit. They're all PCB LEDs. Is anyone away of a diffuser tape to change the color and/or dim the brightness?

The only thing you can do is change the mini dome to a different color, I changed mine to orange and while I had that plastic off I put electrical tape on the backside of that scoop so the bulb socket won't short against it. If it shorts your gonna be in a world of hurt.

#2455 3 years ago

You can use an Adapter from Comet from Bayonet #89 to #555, and use your favorite 6.3V bulb, 0r use a Tap socket and you can split to circles, pads, and strips.

#2456 3 years ago

For the PCB LEDs, I'm going to try these colored filters. $3.17 shipped.

amazon.com link »

#2457 3 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Lift the pf and put a washer under the right side. Works great.

I did this tonight and it does make it better. The target still sits a little sideways from the metal bracket after a few ball whacks but it doesn't overhang like it did before. Thanks.

#2458 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Thanks for Sharing my Video. I was about to do that .
I made this video for people who felt just like pinden007. I felt the same way and there were no clear videos about modern machines .
I hope this helps.

Thanks everyone for this. What a difference doing it the right way. lol

I was able to adjust my 2x target and see that I had hole markings for the PBL rails. I also installed the out drain cliffy.

I saved the shooter lane cliffys for another time since I would have to completely take off the the piece that holds the balls.

The only other issue I have is with the first gate for the ball plunge and/or right orbit. The ball seems to catch that thing every now and then. I read others were having issue with that and possibly working on a fix.

#2459 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Installing the PBL shaker in my Pro...simple right. Well I can't find CN2 on the board and the instructions show it plugged into CN16. So is that where I plug it into? If it is there's a problem, that's where my aux. power board is plugged into. So now what? Is there a splitter for that plug available somewhere.....assuming that CN16 is the place to plug into for the shaker. Any help would be appreciated. A simple plug in mod.....right.
My game

Instruction sheet

Step1: Throw out the directions. Stern's directions were wrong too.
Step 2. Look at your node board. It should be printed on the bd ... "SHAKER".
shaker (resized).jpg

#2460 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Thanks everyone for this. What a difference doing it the right way. lol
I was able to adjust my 2x target and see that I had hole markings for the PBL rails. I also installed the out drain cliffy.
I saved the shooter lane cliffys for another time since I would have to completely take off the the piece that holds the balls.
The only other issue I have is with the first gate for the ball plunge and/or right orbit. The ball seems to catch that thing every now and then. I read others were having issue with that and possibly working on a fix.

Check out my video and the video by PinballSuperNova for: how to install the shooter cliffy.


** To remove the headless bolts: "tap out using a plastic mallet"

#2461 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Check out my video and the video by PinballSuperNova for: how to install the shooter cliffy.
» YouTube video
» YouTube video
** To remove the headless bolts: "tap out using a plastic mallet"

Thanks. So the ball should rest on the cliffys?

#2462 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I have soooo many 12v mods that I have one of those back there too but mine is powered by a 12v 3 amp wall wort plugged into the 110v service outlet so it doesn't tax the game power board.

Where do you buy one that you can plug into the wall and roughly how many is so many that you should get a splitter?

#2463 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

You can use an Adapter from Comet from Bayonet #89 to #555, and use your favorite 6.3V bulb,

but how tall will that make the bulb be? It might not fit under the mini dome.

#2464 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Step1: Throw out the directions. Stern's directions were wrong too.
Step 2. Look at your node board. It should be printed on the bd ... "SHAKER".

I see the printing on the bottom now, I had to stand on my head inside the cab to see mine.......good thing I can read upside down. LOL That solved one problem but it still leaves me with the other which is "my shaker plug is taken up by the power distribution board so who makes a splitter with the connections to plug the shaker motor into that plug"?????

#2465 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveMan:

Where do you buy one that you can plug into the wall and roughly how many is so many that you should get a splitter?

The 8 way splitter has no power so the wall wort supplies it. I had to cut off the round connector on the wall wort and splice in a Molex 3 pin female connector so it would plug into the male input on the splitter. So far I have 2 things plugged into it with more planned.

#2466 3 years ago

Wow I can't believe what a difference it makes to move the flippers up so that they are parallel with the inlines. No more droopy flippers here! I can now backhand the left subway ramp with ease, which is just awesome, before I could only do it about 1 out of 10 shots say.

I highly recommend that this be done on GB. After doing this I scored 1.0 billion and 1.4 billion within my first 5 games and reached WCWS twice. Before with 1000+ games on the machine I had only scored over 1 billion twice and never was able to get to WCWS. The shots are just so much easier to hit and the game feels so much tighter. Love it!

#2467 3 years ago

I have a problem with the storage. It seems that many times the pin loses the ball and goes into ball search, when the ball falls into the storage. I read from this thread that there is some electrical tape fix that people have applied to slow the ball down. Could someone provide a pic, so one would know better where to apply the tape? Could dropdead foam be used?

#2468 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

For the PCB LEDs, I'm going to try these colored filters. $3.17 shipped.
amazon.com link »

I just put some green transparant foil under that plastic. Looks great. Other option is to paint the bulb with some green glass paint.

#2469 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see the printing on the bottom now, I had to stand on my head inside the cab to see mine.......good thing I can read upside down. LOL That solved one problem but it still leaves me with the other which is "my shaker plug is taken up by the power distribution board so who makes a splitter with the connections to plug the shaker motor into that plug"?????

You are tapping into the power for your aux board in the wrong spot. You want to use the ticket header connection, which is located at the top left of the board. You will need a SPIKE 12v power adapter like this one ...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3721

The shaker port should be used strictly for the shaker. You don't want to connect anything else to it.

#2470 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You are tapping into the power for your aux board in the wrong spot. You want to use the ticket header connection, which is located at the top left of the board. You will need a SPIKE 12v power adapter like this one ...
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3721
The shaker port should be used strictly for the shaker. You don't want to connect anything else to it.

You beat me to it!

Also, be sure you connect to the top left ticket header CN11 which is 12v. The ticket header next to it is CN2. CN2 is "ticket low" which is 5v only.

Junky

#2471 3 years ago

Sorry. Website won't be quite finished until this weekend. Stay tuned!!

#2472 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Get a full set of standard nut drivers if you don't have them already.

What range of sizes is best?

#2473 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Thanks. So the ball should rest on the cliffys?

The ball should rest on the wood but the cliffy should be as close as possible without touch the ball.
This allows the ball to sit in its natural location/height from the switch.
If for some reason you need the ball on the cliffy, you might need to readjust your switch so it knows the ball is in the shooter.

ball-001 (resized).jpg

#2474 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

What range of sizes is best?

A standard (non metric) set is what you want. You'll use the 1/4" and 3/8" a lot. Sometimes, other sizes.

#2475 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

The ball should rest on the wood but the cliffy should be as close as possible without touch the ball.
This allows the ball to sit in its natural location/height from the switch.
If for some reason you need the ball on the cliffy, you might need to readjust your switch so it knows the ball is in the shooter.

If the ball doesnt rest on the cliffy, can you elaborate on what the cliffy is doing protection wise?

(not trying to be snide, 100% trying to understand its purpose so I can decide if I should add one)

#2476 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see the printing on the bottom now, I had to stand on my head inside the cab to see mine.......good thing I can read upside down. LOL That solved one problem but it still leaves me with the other which is "my shaker plug is taken up by the power distribution board so who makes a splitter with the connections to plug the shaker motor into that plug"?????

I think I see an issue here....and keep in mind I'm just spit ballin'.

I *think* the original plug connection that was plugged in the Cabinet Node 1 CN14 is supposed to go to the Aux Power Boards INPUT. The PASS THRU should then come out of the Aux Power Board and go into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node 1 board.

That is always the way I understood it to work...take an original plug that was going into the cabinet node, run it through the aux power boards and them pass it thru to the cabinet node board.

Looking at things...it appears the Aux Power board has +48v printed on one side and GND on the other of the INPUT connection. It is the same size 5 pin connection as the shaker motor connection and also pinned the same (except the shaker motor would already be +12v instead of the +48v the Aux Power board is expecting). My guess is the power board is just taking the +12v you are feeding it instead of the +48v it is expecting to "jump down" and using it.

You can also see the factory wire colors for the CN14 wires match what is going to the INPUT on the PBL picture(Black on one and Grey-Yellow on the other). On this picture you can also see the PASS THRU connection coming out of the Aux Power board is the same as what is going into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node 1 boards.

My guess is the instructions are wrong (or have changed) on the Aux Power board. If the connections are keyed (which many times they are not) or haven't changed (which many times they do, this mistake shouldn't be able to happen.....but my guess that is what is happened and you are feeding the Aux Power Board the +12v from the shaker motor connection instead of the +48v it is expecting from the CN14 connection.

UPDATE: After going back and looking at the picture that you posted...I think you have everything connected correctly EXCEPT the harness that is coming OUT of the PASS THRU connection on the Aux Power Board should be going into CN14 instead of CN16....but don't take my word for it. Ask PBL or give the instructions for the Aux Power Board another look.

Pictures are the board diagram from PBL, install pic from PBL and Cabinet Node 1 info from GB manual.

pbl-600-0002-00--2 (resized).png
pbl-600-0002-00--3 (resized).jpg
GB Manual (resized).jpg

#2477 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You are tapping into the power for your aux board in the wrong spot. You want to use the ticket header connection, which is located at the top left of the board. You will need a SPIKE 12v power adapter like this one ...
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3721
The shaker port should be used strictly for the shaker. You don't want to connect anything else to it.

Quoted from imagamejunky:

You beat me to it!
Also, be sure you connect to the top left ticket header CN11 which is 12v. The ticket header next to it is CN2. CN2 is "ticket low" which is 5v only.
Junky

I thought you both beat me to it (after I got done posting), but I'm gonna call you out and say I *think* you are wrong (but in a friendly way of course).

The power adapter that PBL sells that plugs into the ticket dispenser is a standalone single +12v plug. This board is not meant to plug in there. As pointed out above...the Aux Power Board is meant to accept +48v (or so PBLs diagram says) and jump it down to +12v and +5v while passing the +48v on to the Cabinet Node 1 board where it was originally plugged in.

I believe the Aux Power Board is meant to grab the power from the power supply in the head BEFORE it hits the Cabinet Node 1 board and NOT be grabbing power FROM it. One of the main reasons for having it is to be a buffer between the power and the Node Board if something goes wrong or pulls too much power.

#2478 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Installing the PBL shaker in my Pro...simple right. Well I can't find CN2 on the board and the instructions show it plugged into CN16. So is that where I plug it into? If it is there's a problem, that's where my aux. power board is plugged into. So now what? Is there a splitter for that plug available somewhere.....assuming that CN16 is the place to plug into for the shaker. Any help would be appreciated. A simple plug in mod.....right.
My game

Instruction sheet

The CN16 connection was originally called CN2 on earlier SPIKE games. Looking at your pictures...and seeing what I have from the manuals (and the PBL Aux Power Board info)....I don't see how your game would even operate with it connected as your picture shows.

You show the plug that was originally in the CN14 connection plugged into the Aux Power boards INPUT (which, I believe, is correct), but instead of plugging the PASS THRU going out of the Aux Power Board into the CN14 connection....you have it plugged into the shaker motor connection (CN16). How is your game even working with nothing plugged in the CN14? How is the Cabinet Node 1 Board not minding power from the pass through going into it through the shaker motor CN16 connection??? How is the Aux Power Board not minding +12v coming FROM the Cabinet Node board into it's "output" connection??

Hooked up like your picture...I'm surprised things have been working fine for you or the game is working at all without getting the +48v input to the Cabinet Node 1 board that it is expecting at the CN14 connection.

??? Still a bit confused, but I bet a call / e-mail to PBL will explain you should be running your PASS THRU to the CN14.

#2479 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I thought you both beat me to it (after I got done posting), but I'm gonna call you out and say I *think* you are wrong (but in a friendly way of course).
The power adapter that PBL sells that plugs into the ticket dispenser is a standalone single +12v plug. This board is not meant to plug in there. As pointed out above...the Aux Power Board is meant to accept +48v (or so PBLs diagram says) and jump it down to +12v and +5v while passing the +48v on to the Cabinet Node 1 board where it was originally plugged in.
I believe the Aux Power Board is meant to grab the power from the power supply in the head BEFORE it hits the Cabinet Node 1 board and NOT be grabbing power FROM it. One of the main reasons for having it is to be a buffer between the power and the Node Board if something goes wrong or pulls too much power.

Well I don't know what happened now. I disconnected the splitter board and plugged the shaker in and it played great. I turned the game off and came back a few hours later, turned the game on and got this message on the dmd "Up dating node board runtime. Under those words were a 1, 8 and 9 in seperate box's. Then a seperate screen came up that said "Update Failed......Please power cycle" which I did 3 times.
The game will power up but the start button is not lit and I cant start a game. I looked at the node board when the game was turned on and the red led on the right side of the board is lit but the orange led in the center is off.

I think my board died. I killed it.

#2480 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

How is your game even working with nothing plugged in the CN14?

I forgot to plug it back in before I took the picture.

#2481 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I forgot to plug it back in before I took the picture.

So what did you plug in the CN14? In your picture it looks like what was originally in CN14 (5 pin connection with BLACK on one end and GREY-YELLOW wire on the other end) is plugged in the INPUT of the Aux Power Board. Which is where I *think* it IS supposed to be plugged in.

#2482 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well I don't know what happened now. I disconnected the splitter board and plugged the shaker in and it played great. I turned the game off and came back a few hours later, turned the game on and got this message on the dmd "Up dating node board runtime. Under those words were a 1, 8 and 9 in seperate box's. Then a seperate screen came up that said "Update Failed......Please power cycle" which I did 3 times.
The game will power up but the start button is not lit and I cant start a game. I looked at the node board when the game was turned on and the red led on the right side of the board is lit but the orange led in the center is off.
I think my board died. I killed it.

I have a hunch. You had the Aux Power Board connected correctly. CN14 plug going into the INPUT of the Aux Power Board and the PASS THRU coming out of the Aux Power Board and going into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node Board. You went to install the shaker...where confused by there being no CN2 connection down there like the shaker instructions said...so you unplugged the pass thru wire going into the CN14 looking for it. After the confusion you accidentally plugged the the pass thru wire that WAS in the CN14 before into the CN16 (shaker connection) by accident......

Sound like that might have happened??? Even if those connections are keyed...they are keyed completely opposite of each other...so they could be plugged in backwards and the keys wouldn't have prevented it.

#2483 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

So what did you plug in the CN14? In your picture it looks like what was originally in CN14 (5 pin connection with BLACK on one end and GREY-YELLOW wire on the other end) is plugged in the INPUT of the Aux Power Board. Which is where I *think* it IS supposed to be plugged in.

Looking back, in the first picture I had it part right. I see where I went wrong but it's to late now.

#2484 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I have a hunch. You had the Aux Power Board connected correctly. CN14 plug going into the INPUT of the Aux Power Board and the PASS THRU coming out of the Aux Power Board and going into the CN14 connection on the Cabinet Node Board. You went to install the shaker...where confused by there being no CN2 connection down there like the shaker instructions said...so you unplugged the pass thru wire going into the CN14 looking for it. After the confusion you accidentally plugged the the pass thru wire that WAS in the CN14 before into the CN16 (shaker connection) by accident......
Sound like that might have happened??? Even if those connections are keyed...they are keyed completely opposite of each other...so they could be plugged in backwards and the keys wouldn't have prevented it.

Yeah that's probably it. I still have much to learn about these Spike games.

#2485 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looking back, in the first picture I had it part right. I see where I went wrong but it's to late now.

RIP Cabinet Node 1 Board. It wasn't the first to die and I'm sure it won't be the last. It seems they could have really used a bit more engineering as they have changed a few times in the handful of SPIKE games that have been released. Why have 2 5 pin connections the same size right next to each other, both only using 2 wires in the 5 connection housing and have them pinned completely opposite from each other so they can still be plugged in incorrectly??? It just seems like there should be enough configurations in there to make them different. Why not a key in the middle of one and one on the right side of the other???

Yeah....I was wondering from that picture how anything was working.....as it didn't seem good for the Cabinet Node Board or the Aux Power Board getting and sending power in different places than they should.

Sorry Paul. Hopefully this cautionary tale will help someone else out.

#2486 3 years ago

My post was in reference to (and agreeing with) gweempose's post. A 12v spike power adapter needs to be connected to the 12v ticket header and not the shaker header. Only a shaker should be connected to the shaker header. It isn't constant power.

Paul, I hope you're able to get your cab up and running asap. That sucks!

Junky

#2487 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I thought you both beat me to it (after I got done posting), but I'm gonna call you out and say I *think* you are wrong (but in a friendly way of course).
The power adapter that PBL sells that plugs into the ticket dispenser is a standalone single +12v plug. This board is not meant to plug in there. As pointed out above...the Aux Power Board is meant to accept +48v (or so PBLs diagram says) and jump it down to +12v and +5v while passing the +48v on to the Cabinet Node 1 board where it was originally plugged in.
I believe the Aux Power Board is meant to grab the power from the power supply in the head BEFORE it hits the Cabinet Node 1 board and NOT be grabbing power FROM it. One of the main reasons for having it is to be a buffer between the power and the Node Board if something goes wrong or pulls too much power.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

I think my board died. I killed it

My apologies for any confusion, and I truly hope that my comments didn't contribute to the board's untimely demise. I should have paid more attention to the photo. I assumed the aux board in question was a variation on a standard 12v splitter like the one I have in my backbox. I'm not familiar with this other product.

#2488 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

If the ball doesnt rest on the cliffy, can you elaborate on what the cliffy is doing protection wise?
(not trying to be snide, 100% trying to understand its purpose so I can decide if I should add one)

The cliffy protects against the ball slamming into the shooter lane > ricocheting off the side and landing as the ball is thrown into the lane. Now if you want the ball to rest on the cliffy, that's fine, just be aware, you may need to readjust your switch (maybe quite a bit)
I put my cliffy as close as I could without it touching the ball. This is some small stuff so the close-up might look like an exaggerated gap between the cliffy and ball but its not really. The curve of the ball comes very close the cliffy. Ideally, you want to get the cliffy as close as you can to the ball without the ball actually resting on top of the cliffy.

As a side note: My cliffy is slightly dented where the ball lands after slamming into the side wall, then dropping down. I also have no damage to my shooter lane so I'm very happy with the way my cliffy is installed and working.

#2489 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looking back, in the first picture I had it part right. I see where I went wrong but it's to late now.

Sorry to hear about your node bd Paul.
So now you should call the tech support # under your lockdown bar and explain what happened to Chas.
Not sure if they will charge you are not, but you need a new board so its time to get one and put it behind you.

#2490 3 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

RIP Cabinet Node 1 Board. It wasn't the first to die and I'm sure it won't be the last. It seems they could have really used a bit more engineering as they have changed a few times in the handful of SPIKE games that have been released. Why have 2 5 pin connections the same size right next to each other, both only using 2 wires in the 5 connection housing and have them pinned completely opposite from each other so they can still be plugged in incorrectly??? It just seems like there should be enough configurations in there to make them different. Why not a key in the middle of one and one on the right side of the other???
Yeah....I was wondering from that picture how anything was working.....as it didn't seem good for the Cabinet Node Board or the Aux Power Board getting and sending power in different places than they should.
Sorry Paul. Hopefully this cautionary tale will help someone else out.

Yeah that's one of the reasons I posted, even though it made me look like a dumb ass I hope it may help someone. That's life, sometimes ya win and sometimes ya lose.

#2491 3 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

My post was in reference to (and agreeing with) gweempose's post. A 12v spike power adapter needs to be connected to the 12v ticket header and not the shaker header. Only a shaker should be connected to the shaker header. It isn't constant power.
Paul, I hope you're able to get your cab up and running asap. That sucks!
Junky

If they would have had the one available that went in the bb I would have gotten that one. Yeah it's down for a while.

#2492 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

My apologies for any confusion, and I truly hope that my comments didn't contribute to the board's untimely demise. I should have paid more attention to the photo. I assumed the aux board in question was a variation on a standard 12v splitter like the one I have in my backbox. I'm not familiar with this other product.

Thanks, no they didn't, just my rookie mistakes with a new system.

#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Sorry to hear about your node bd Paul.
So now you should call the tech support # under your lockdown bar and explain what happened to Chas.
Not sure if they will charge you are not, but you need a new board so its time to get one and put it behind you.

Thanks Chuck, I sent them an email. If I don't hear back in a few days I'll give them a call.

#2494 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks Chuck, I sent them an email. If I don't hear back in a few days I'll give them a call.

To save you some time, Calling is always the right thing to do . I would not email them without the phone call.
I would also take a picture of the problem and be prepared to email them a short video or photo.
Chas will give you his email address over the phone.

#2495 3 years ago

So I've been trying to figure out why my right orbit and ball plunge is not smooth. Upon closer inspection I noticed the metal flap is sticking out under the orbit wall.

Is that how everyone's pin is? Doesn't seem right.

IMG_2603 (resized).JPG

#2496 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks, no they didn't, just my rookie mistakes with a new system.

Rookie your UP!

#2497 3 years ago

NIB Ghostbusters Pro

What to do for initial setup? Wax? Playfield protector? All thoughts appreciated!

#2498 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Rookie your UP!

at least I didn't start the game on fire.

#2499 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

NIB Ghostbusters Pro
What to do for initial setup? Wax? Playfield protector? All thoughts appreciated!

No you don't want to wax it, have you watched any of those factory tour videos? They polish the hell out of them at the factory.

#2500 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

NIB Ghostbusters Pro
What to do for initial setup? Wax? Playfield protector? All thoughts appreciated!

I received my GB Pro almost two weeks ago. Very few tweaks needed. This is what I did:

-Adjusted flippers up, tips up 3/16" (this is my preference, not due to issues)
-Art's airfield protector
-Bent the Scolari targets forward very gently to eliminate a few air balls
-Re-adjusted Slimer

Other than that, I added a few mods. It's been pretty solid out of the box.

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