(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!


By 30FathomDave

3 years ago



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There are 7875 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 158.
#2401 2 years ago

I'm game. Anybody have a quick and easy instruction to how to adjust the flippers up?

Flippers are one thing I've never messed with on a pin....other than to change their rubber.

#2402 2 years ago

I moved my flippers up also when i got mine, but moved them back cause i couldn't hit the ramps as good.

#2403 2 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I moved my flippers up also when i got mine, but moved them back cause i couldn't hit the ramps as good.

Hmmm....I wouldn't think the ramps would be the issue, but more the extreme left and right shots.

But....I haven't tried it yet!

#2404 2 years ago

To move flippers up, simply loosen the hex that holds the flipper in position. Only slightly loosen. Move flippers to appear straight with plastics versus drooped down, then tighten hex again.

I personally have no issues hitting shots with them this way.

#2405 2 years ago

when adjusting the flippers make sure the bat is not sitting on the deck of your playfield otherwise you will start to loose art very quickly - just be mindful and copy the gap from one for the adjusted one.

#2406 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

when adjusting the flippers make sure the bat is not sitting on the deck of your playfield otherwise you will start to loose art very quickly - just be mindful and copy the gap from one for the adjusted one.

Yep. You need to maintain a small gap about the thickness of a credit card between the flipper and the bushing.

#2407 2 years ago

Want do I do if my right flipper won't retract all the way?

Update: it was a broken end of the flipper spring. I twisted the end to create a new hook and reattached it. I guess I can get extra springs from cointaker?

#2408 2 years ago

Thinking of lighting speakers and going with ghost acrylic. Anyone do this one? Please post pic and where you ordered?

Thx!!!!

#2409 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Thinking of lighting speakers and going with ghost acrylic. Anyone do this one? Please post pic and where you ordered?
Thx!!!!

Speakerlightkits.com.

#2410 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Thinking of lighting speakers and going with ghost acrylic. Anyone do this one? Please post pic and where you ordered?
Thx!!!!

I have them in this video. I'm very happy with them.

Bought them from here
http://www.pinballbulbs.com/speaker-light-kits

Junky

#2411 2 years ago

Thanks fellas!!

#2412 2 years ago

Noob putting an order in from pinball life.

I have no pinball parts. Help me put a list together of things I should have on hand for my GB and pinball in general, e.g., extra lights, springs, cleaning products, etc.

Thanks.

#2413 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What voltage is the light in the car?

I believe it's 12V? Can't seem to find a spot to hook it up and have her lit up. Suggestions?

#2414 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Noob putting an order in from pinball life.
I have no pinball parts. Help me put a list together of things I should have on hand for my GB and pinball in general, e.g., extra lights, springs, cleaning products, etc.
Thanks.

The lights now are LED and rarely fail. Not much point stocking up on those. If one does fail, it's easy enough to order a replacement after the fact - it's not like the game will be out of commission.

You will want new pinballs, though. the ones Stern ships with the game are not very good.

You also definitely need several good soft micofiber cloths, a light cleaner such as Novus 1, and a pure canuba non-cleaner wax -- I recommend P21S. You can get it off Amazon. You will want to do light cleaning and wax every few months depending on usage. The wax helps reduce playfield wear and makes the game play nice and fast. Very important!

Also a good set of tools, including a soldering iron.

You shouldnt need a bunch of spare parts on hand right off the bat. The number of things that could potentially fail in a pinball machine are too varied -- you can't really anticipate which part you will need (if you only have one game). Instead of buying parts that may not or may not fail, invest in Cliffy protectors or other mods.

A year or two from now, you may want new rubbers, but no need to worry about that now.

#2415 2 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I believe it's 12V? Can't seem to find a spot to hook it up and have her lit up. Suggestions?

Since I have my Leg Light-Ups, Beatmasters shooter housing light up and 2 rgb strips in the bb T molding I bought an 8 way power splitter and am powering it with a 12v 3 amp wall wort plugged into short extension cord that has an on/off switch which is plugged into the 110v service outlet in the bb. I have to manually switch the switch to turn all those mods on but the good thing is is that all those, and more if I choose aren't drawing power from the games power board. I also do that set-up on my other games with 20-30 year old power boards which REALLY makes sense.

#2416 2 years ago

two more essential tools for the noob:

cotton swabs of assorted sizes. put a little water or windex on the end, and these things are awesome for cleaning hard to reach places.

swabeez (resized).jpg
get them here:
amazon.com link »

also, a telescoping magnet tool. this one is good, because the magnet is nice and small; good for getting down into a pinball machine.
telescoping magnet tool (resized).jpg
amazon.com link »

#2417 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Noob putting an order in from pinball life.
I have no pinball parts. Help me put a list together of things I should have on hand for my GB and pinball in general, e.g., extra lights, springs, cleaning products, etc.
Thanks.

definitely swap out the pin balls

cliffy's for the shooter lane and drain hole are worthwhile - contact cliffy on pinside

#2418 2 years ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

The lights now are LED and rarely fail. Not much point stocking up on those. If one does fail, it's easy enough to order a replacement after the fact - it's not like the game will be out of commission.
You will want new pinballs, though. the ones Stern ships with the game are not very good.
You also definitely need several good soft micofiber cloths, a light cleaner such as Novus 1, and a pure canuba non-cleaner wax -- I recommend P21S. You can get it off Amazon. You will want to do light cleaning and wax every few months depending on usage. The wax helps reduce playfield wear and makes the game play nice and fast. Very important!
Also a good set of tools, including a soldering iron.
You shouldnt need a bunch of spare parts on hand right off the bat. The number of things that could potentially fail in a pinball machine are too varied -- you can't really anticipate which part you will need (if you only have one game). Instead of buying parts that may not or may not fail, invest in Cliffy protectors or other mods.
A year or two from now, you may want new rubbers, but no need to worry about that now.

Thanks!

Is this the wax on amazon? P21S 12700W Carnauba Wax

I do have pinballs on order.

#2419 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Noob putting an order in from pinball life.
I have no pinball parts. Help me put a list together of things I should have on hand for my GB and pinball in general, e.g., extra lights, springs, cleaning products, etc.
Thanks.

Get a full set of standard nut drivers if you don't have them already.

#2420 2 years ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

You will want new pinballs, though. the ones Stern ships with the game are not very good.

That used to be true, but the ones they are shipping now are just fine.

#2421 2 years ago

What's the best way to straighten with 2x target? It's slightly overhanging the lane.

Thanks.

IMG_2595 (resized).JPG

#2422 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

What's the best way to straighten with 2x target? It's slightly overhanging the lane.
Thanks.

Lift the pf and put a washer under the right side. Works great.

#2423 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

What's the best way to straighten with 2x target? It's slightly overhanging the lane.
Thanks.

I've always just manually pushed them straight, then re-tightened the fasteners on the switch from under the playfield.

#2424 2 years ago

Man I installed the air ball kit with center post this weekend boy it helps this game out a lot . I also freshened up those droopy flippers just raised them a little bit and now I can back hand the ramp on the left flipper awesome no problem hitting every shoot much better .
After lots of tweaks I think I got it to a good place . I will have to keep it around for a while . This is a gem of a game just needs polished .

#2425 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I've always just manually pushed them straight, then re-tightened the fasteners on the switch from under the playfield.

Someone make "splints" for those.....now who is it?

#2426 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Someone make "splints" for those.....now who is it?

The targets basically have a splint design built into the bracket now. Sometimes the 2 screws holding it together just need to be tightened.

Rob

#2427 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Thanks!
Is this the wax on amazon? P21S 12700W Carnauba Wax

that's the stuff!

#2428 2 years ago

Not splits but I have designed some target wedges and currently testing to tilt the targets forward = huge reduction in airballs so removes the need for the air ball protectors - just need slightly longer screws for the target assemble.

edit splits is supposed to be splints, sorry

#2429 2 years ago
Quoted from trimoto:

Man I installed the air ball kit with center post this weekend boy it helps this game out a lot . I also freshened up those droopy flippers just raised them a little bit and now I can back hand the ramp on the left flipper awesome no problem hitting every shoot much better .
After lots of tweaks I think I got it to a good place . I will have to keep it around for a while . This is a gem of a game just needs polished .

Well said. I'm keeping track of all the tweaks and modifications I'm making to lock this game in to my liking.

#2430 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Not splits but I have designed some target wedges and currently testing to tilt the targets forward = huge reduction in airballs so removes the need for the air ball protectors - just need slightly longer screws for the target assemble.

Will be interested in seeing this when you're done.

#2431 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I've always just manually pushed them straight, then re-tightened the fasteners on the switch from under the playfield.

I'll take a look at this tonight.

Anyone using the PINBALL PLAYABILITY LED KIT?

#2432 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Anyone using the PINBALL PLAYABILITY LED KIT?

I've never heard of this. What is it?

#2434 2 years ago

There is going to be some very exciting lighting opportunities for games to come out very soon. A friend of mine is working on something pretty amazing.

#2435 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I've always just manually pushed them straight, then re-tightened the fasteners on the switch from under the playfield.

Well I had it straight and a few games later if was leaning again. I guess I didn't tighten the screws tight enough?

I not comfortable yet putting the play field vertical. I always feels like it's laying on wires and I am not quite sure how to put it past 90 deg by myself. I should have asked my installer.

#2436 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I'm not comfortable yet putting the play field vertical. I always feels like it's laying on wires and I am not quite sure how to put it past 90 deg by myself. I should have asked my installer.

After you lift the playfield up high enough to clear all the mechs underneath, you need to pull it forward. You will feel some resistance, but keep on pulling and it will ride over the hump. You can then continue to pull it forward very slowly until it stops. At this point, you can lift up the playfield and lean it all the way against the backbox. Make sure as you do all of this that you pull it evenly and keep the playfield straight. If you don't, you could scratch up the inside of your cabinet, or even worse, drop the playfield into it. It's really a crappy design.

This video is very helpful for new owners ...

#2437 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

After you lift the playfield up high enough to clear all the mechs underneath, you need to pull it forward. You will feel some resistance, but keep on pulling and it will ride over the hump. You can then continue to pull it forward very slowly until it stops. At this point, you can lift up the playfield and lean it all the way against the backbox. Make sure as you do all of this that you pull it evenly and keep the playfield straight. If you don't, you could scratch up the inside of your cabinet, or even worse, drop the playfield into it. It's really a crappy design.
This video is very helpful for new owners ...
» YouTube video

Yup and I always put a thick towel on top of the backbox and let it hang over the tl so the apron doesn't mess up the top front of the backbox ESPECIALLY on an all wood bb.

#2438 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

After you lift the playfield up high enough to clear all the mechs underneath, you need to pull it forward. You will feel some resistance, but keep on pulling and it will ride over the hump. You can then continue to pull it forward very slowly until it stops. At this point, you can lift up the playfield and lean it all the way against the backbox. Make sure as you do all of this that you pull it evenly and keep the playfield straight. If you don't, you could scratch up the inside of your cabinet, or even worse, drop the playfield into it. It's really a crappy design.
This video is very helpful for new owners ...
» YouTube video

Yes that was very helpful, thanks. I was never getting it over the hump. I also don't have the rails yet.

#2439 2 years ago

hey mike what day is it? humpday

#2440 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

hey mike what day is it? humpday

One of my favorite commercials

#2441 2 years ago

Does anyone have a photo of mirror blades on their GB? Wondering which looks better- those or the art blades?

Thanks

#2442 2 years ago

I installed the airball prevention plastic from PU in the beginning of the left ramp, but now, if the
speed of the ball is slow and it comes back down the ramp with slow speed, it sometimes gets
stuck to the protector like in the picture. I tried putting washers under the protector and nuts to lift the
protector, but it did not help. I also loosened the nuts and it helped, but then the whole nut with
washer came off during gameplay. Any tips on how to rectify this? Thanks!

GB_stuck_ball (resized).JPG

#2443 2 years ago

Thanks for Sharing my Video. I was about to do that .
I made this video for people who felt just like pinden007. I felt the same way and there were no clear videos about modern machines .
I hope this helps.

Quoted from pinden007:

Well I had it straight and a few games later if was leaning again. I guess I didn't tighten the screws tight enough?
I not comfortable yet putting the play field vertical. I always feels like it's laying on wires and I am not quite sure how to put it past 90 deg by myself. I should have asked my installer.

Quoted from gweempose:

After you lift the playfield up high enough to clear all the mechs underneath, you need to pull it forward. You will feel some resistance, but keep on pulling and it will ride over the hump. You can then continue to pull it forward very slowly until it stops. At this point, you can lift up the playfield and lean it all the way against the backbox. Make sure as you do all of this that you pull it evenly and keep the playfield straight. If you don't, you could scratch up the inside of your cabinet, or even worse, drop the playfield into it. It's really a crappy design.
This video is very helpful for new owners ...
» YouTube video

#2444 2 years ago

You can try these... They will extend the height and fit the nut
ebay.com link
ebay.com link
spacer22 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Nepi23:

I installed the airball prevention plastic from PU in the beginning of the left ramp, but now, if the
speed of the ball is slow and it comes back down the ramp with slow speed, it sometimes gets
stuck to the protector like in the picture. I tried putting washers under the protector and nuts to lift the
protector, but it did not help. I also loosened the nuts and it helped, but then the whole nut with
washer came off during gameplay. Any tips on how to rectify this? Thanks!

#2445 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I installed the airball prevention plastic... Any tips on how to rectify this? Thanks!

well, as seen on pic, that also means that each shots (!) climbing or not the ramp, its touching the plastic... !? not good than !

i see 3 easy fix :

- as said above, upper the plastic on screw, no matter how
- re drill the holes (in line) to than have some adjusting possibilities (in this case plastic should be set a bit more near to the apron)
- lime (just a few) the plastic, just the place behind/above the the ramp

#2446 2 years ago

Installing the PBL shaker in my Pro...simple right. Well I can't find CN2 on the board and the instructions show it plugged into CN16. So is that where I plug it into? If it is there's a problem, that's where my aux. power board is plugged into. So now what? Is there a splitter for that plug available somewhere.....assuming that CN16 is the place to plug into for the shaker. Any help would be appreciated. A simple plug in mod.....right.

My game
IMGA0032 (resized).JPG

Instruction sheet
IMGA0035 (resized).JPG

#2447 2 years ago

I'm new to the GB thing, having just placed an order for a Pro, and plan on installing this shaker motor too. Is that aux board stock or did you add it to power other mods (like leg light-ups...?!).

#2448 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I'm new to the GB thing, having just placed an order for a Pro, and plan on installing this shaker motor too. Is that aux board stock or did you add it to power other mods (like leg light-ups...?!).

With spike an additional board for the shaker isn't necessary. Just bolt it down and plug it in. Not sure what aux board you are talking about, but PBL does sell one to power mods.

#2449 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I'm new to the GB thing, having just placed an order for a Pro, and plan on installing this shaker motor too. Is that aux board stock or did you add it to power other mods (like leg light-ups...?!).

Yes PBL sells that power distribution board for Spike, 1 in 3 out. If you get it you'll have the same problem I have.

Quoted from kermit24:

With spike an additional board for the shaker isn't necessary. Just bolt it down and plug it in. Not sure what aux board you are talking about, but PBL does sell one to power mods.

Yes that's right "if" your not going to use the power distribution board like I am.

#2450 2 years ago

I have one of these SPIKE power splitters in the backbox of my GB, and I love it!

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4248

It has a magnetic base, so you just stick it wherever you want. It's great for powering mods like speaker lights, toppers, ColorDMDs, etc ...

Power Splitter (resized).JPG

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