If I've been watching the market for a pro for a while, is it a good idea to stay away from the early runs which I understand had the misspelled REINFORCMENT insert? What was the deal - some of them had cabinet splitting, and insert ghosting? Anything with the service rails or node boards particular to early runs vs. not?

My view on this has changed over time...when I first got my Premium it felt so brutal and unfair. The flipper gap felt like it was a foot wide, and the jumps over the outlanes were extremely bothersome. Let's not forget about the airballs. I've never seen so many on a table. Cling clang bash crunch. That's how this game generally shoots. The subway shot on my premium is by fair the best shot on the table, and it may be the only shot to focus on if you are trying to get a high score.

I made some adjustments that I felt now make the game as fair as possible:

- Metal outlane jump blockers (protects against outlane jumps)
- Swinks target bracket replacements which prevents airballs off of the targets.
- Airball plastic protector which prevents airballs off of the subway ramp
- I moved the outlane posts down to make the game a bit easier
- I dialed in the far right ramp to perfection (premium only) so it can be hit consistently.
- I lowered the flipper power to "NORMAL" in the settings, this slowed the game down and enabled me to focus more on hitting my shots cleaner, and therefore play less defense. Why default is set to "HARD" I have no idea.
- I installed the proper springs to ensure the scoleri targets drop cleanly and don't cause air balls

After I made these adjustments, the game is much more fun and I really do find it "fair". The flipper gap problem is minimized now, because all of the shots on the table have become more makeable as a result of the aforementioned fixes. I say fair with air quotes because of the magna slings. They are a game changer (literally) as they act on their own. If you go in expecting to beat the slings, you will lose. Frankly, I enjoy it when they cause me to lose my ball. The feature really matches the theme for me...my GB prem will never leave my collection.

Strategy is actually quite simple. I set the skill shot to the right orbit so I can start the scene immediately. That shot is pretty easy to hit, and if you can avoid slimer, progressing through the game is actually possible with the default game settings. I really like the right cluster of scenes, so my focus is there. When in doubt, hit that subway ramp, hit it all day. Grab the multipliers when possible, that will make a huge scoring difference.

When I want to have fun and be entertained, I'll play Ghostbusters. When I want to play pinball more seriously, I'll play any of my other machines.

Absolutely not if it's a good price get it! My premium was over 1 year after release but I still swapped out the leg brackets for the larger Bally Williams style and added L corner brackets on top for security. As for ghosted inserts almost all modern Sterns have them now they just changed where they put the key line black border to the inside of the insert so nobody even notices it now but it's way worse now. Also I think the misspelling and things like that are cool plus might be more rare ppl like that..lol! Happy hunting

Could you talk a little more about this and what you did? I like that right ramp but it is tough. My failure rate is probably 60%.

It's been a couple of years, but I pulled this from an earlier post. I'm pretty sure I did exactly that. I also had an issue of the ball not triggering the microswitch every time (it was maybe 80%). I made a couple of small bends and now it always triggers the switch.

Hex spacer 1 5/8" (or 1 3/4") - change this on the right plastic 1/2 circle ramp (this shorter hex makes it easier for ball to go up).

Exactly right. Use a slightly shorter hex support post under the right ramp to reduce the pitch slightly. Still a tough shot, but I probably went from around 20% success to at least 75% success when I fire a clean shot at the ramp. Before that, it would travel part way up the ramp and trickle back down. I bought my premium nib in 2017 and public opinion was very harsh about GB then. I liked mine from the start, even with a bad coil and node board from day 1 that caused a 6 week delay. The airballs and rail jumps were mostly all correctable with plastic protectors. The gap isn’t really that noticeable to me, but I did add the “suspended” center post plastic to make it a bit more forgiving. I’ve had my GB 5 years and it’s the pin I’ve owned the longest!

Shaker ?…..how does a shaker add to GB? Considering for GB, AIQ and SW. Trying to prioritize which of these three games benefits the most from one.

The shaker on GB is essential - I can't imagine starting Storage Facility Multiball without it!

I guess since I posted this ? In a GB thread, GB would be the obvious choice right?!!!

Totally agree - love hitting Storage Facility Multiball! Such a moment in the game!

Shaker is great for both GB and AIQ.... SW eh but adds some to the game. Isn't it the same shaker so you could move it and see which gives you the best shake for your buck. I'd honestly start with AIQ.

But really, its done very well with the code. Definitely one of the better games to have it on.

I have shakers on all my Sterns - Home use games should have the full effect of lights, sound and movement IMO.

Yep totally agree I have shakers on all my machines. GB really does make great use of it though, if i had to name one machine to have a shaker it would be this one.

Good stuff. Thanks for all the replies.

Back by popular requests…..

Mod - For Sale

GHOSTBUSTERS AIRBALL & RIGHT ORBIT PROTECTORS Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “One for $20 (both for $30). Made from nearly unbreakable PET-G plastic. 1. Airball protector, Left ramp - see below. 2. Right Orbit protector - see below. (see instructions bel...”

2022-08-18

Saukville, WI

cpr9999

20

Archived after: 67 days

Viewed: 2451 times

Status: Not sold

My Ghostbusters is a premium, slimer goes all the way to the left and stops.
I have reseated my connectors, tried another Node 8 board, tried another motor board, but no change. My opto board seems to work in test by putting a business card in it, but the OP in an old thread mentions a poker chip vs coin. Any difference if I use a business card? The opto board is not made, so I can't replace it, but I can try to shot gun all the 3 opto's and 3 transistors. I get a reading on the DMD of 0,then -1 flickering, but no gradual increase or decrease numbers of the slimer moving left or right. It get stuck all the way in the left position and even tries to move further and the belt jumps. What is this issue? I have emailed Stern support, but no correct solution.

I have no idea. All i can say is keep leaning on Stern. The problem you are having could happen to anyone with a Premium or LE.

Did Stern come back to you at all?

These are the worst kind of problems - so frustrating.

If the numbers aren’t increasing, it can’t be reading the opto correctly. I’m not familiar with the detector board but I would try reflowing the solder on the header pins and optos.

Also check the board for power and ground. Black and brown should be ground and the red wire 5V. The pink with various stripes are the outputs from the opto circuit.

Does anyone have a Premium/LE Library or very similar sized Library mod they would be willing to sell? (PM me please)

I'm having an issue with my autoplunger not making it all the way up the lane sometimes. It makes multiball pretty troublesome when it kicks out more than a ball into the lane after failing to get the first one into play. I've cleaned the plunger, replaced the sleeve, stretched the spring a little and nothing looks overly worn. I don't think the coil is getting overly tired, but once it fails and things get into a cycle of failure it really goes downhill. manually plunging balls out is possible but obviously not ideal.

Anyone got the music and sounds from the GB game - want to create a little video without youtube blocking the music - any tips

Anyone looking for a topper? Lol

ebay.com link: itm

Thanks way beyond ridiculous.

I paid $2500 for mine

What a joke.

lol. I saw that randomly and was like WTF!!

Doesn't hurt to leave it listed and see what the biggest crazy person is I guess. Worst case scenario he has to keep it.

A seller can ask for whatever he wants. Sometimes he will reel in a big fish (and you will flip him off). Other times he will be eating it ( and you will laugh at the fool).

In the meantime, in this day and age, it costs little, or nothing at all, to list something for sale. A seller can keep an ad up for a long time, especially if what is for sale doesn't eat.

And if you are really serious you can always contact him and ask if he is willing to make deal.

Don’t own the game but a place near me just got it . Played it for the first time last week, came back this morning and racked up my first billion point game on anything I’ve ever played! I neeeeed this game in my collection.

0E188F6A-B153-496A-B4F2-F8E5C03C9263 (resized).jpeg

Congrats! Anyone know what the alt translite is on this machine?

Can we all put our heads together and make these at a fraction of the cost?

I was going to but still haven't sold all the proton mods - was going to do a Batman 66 approach but with a Ecto 1

I’d love to see you do the topper. And then I’ll buy one. Let’s get rocking!

A trip down Memory Lane about prices

** Whitey is no longer around. He got busted for selling something near 20 pins on Pinside and never made a contribution.Somebody fingered him and was Blocked.

And now for the topper:

Yes please! I'm in!

Starting point here! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hey-stern-make-some-new-ghostbusters-ecto-1-topper

I still think the Stern topper looks like crap, but what do I know? I also said the Internet would never catch on back in 1994.

I don't love it but if they were $500 I'd buy.

Sadly topper for GZ and Rush when released are likely to top $1000. I think last run of LZ toppers were $800-900.

I've searched this thread up and down and am completely stuck as frustrating as it is... How in the hell do you get slimer not to rub against the building but still register shots. I've figured out how the mech works but if I adjust the top plate to move slimer away from the building to not rub, it almost never registers a shot... If I put it back to the factory position where it rubs against the building the shots work... I don't want slimer rubbing against the building as to me that's going to quickly cause unnecessary friction wear against both the building and slimer. But... I also want the shots to register... There has to be a way to do both... Right? What am I missing? I've been trying to figure this out for years and now I'm just done screwing with it... Thanks!

what sensor version is slimer - early games had a different wiring at the top which reduced switch activations. Replacement changed a few months into production and replaced with this - see the attachment.

Slimer Assembly.png

Great question, sorry I didn't clarify that. I'm apparently on the earlier version 500-9983-00.

you may want to swap out the slimer wire, though might need a new slimer component ...

I can see it now. Seller sells topper for this price. Buyer pays with Paypal...Seller ships it out. Then charges are reversed as Paypal claims fraud.. Now seller is out the topper and the money.

$500 og shooter or…

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-glow-shooter-rod

$80

Decisions decisions!

Ordered today. Really happy with this, been looking since I bought the pin!

s385790218873361898_p231_i2_w629 (resized).jpeg

Hey, here's how to install the "Pindefender" in a GB Pro for shooter lane protection if anyone is interested. Lots of color options, but I like how the red looks in it:

Also, I don't sell these or get paid to promote. I'm just sharing.

New pro owner here! Really enjoying the game. Do you guys change any of the settings on latest code besides flipper strength?