The seller and I made a phone call handshake. I bring it home on Sunday. Prices will collapse on Monday

Thanks to all who offered their thoughts.

Discontinuing these protectors after 14 runs of making them. See ad below. Price reduced - free shipping in the USA.

Mod - For Sale

GHOSTBUSTERS AIRBALL & RIGHT ORBIT PROTECTORS Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “One for $20 (both for $30). Made from nearly unbreakable PET-G plastic. 1. Airball protector, Left ramp - see below. 2. Right Orbit protector - see below. (see instructions bel...”

2022-08-18

Saukville, WI

cpr9999

20

Archived after: 67 days

Viewed: 2451 times

Status: Not sold

Saw the GB: Afterlife sequel tonight. Wife and I both enjoyed it. It’s much more of a direct sequel to the 1984 GB than the 2016 reboot. It has a nice balance of mostly new, fresh material with just the right amount of references and cameos. Classy, thoughtful ending. Good, not great overall. I’d be interested to hear what others think.

Thought it was amazing! Seen it opening weekend in a packed theater what a rush hearing applause during a movie again! But yeah it had it all for me. Call backs like Endgame, plot like force awakens or jurassic world and I felt like I was watching Goonies or Monster squad as an 8 year old again! Blu-ray day 1 can't wait!

Wife and I very much enjoyed it!

WAIT, WHAT?!?! There is a new movie? Huh?

I had only a single complaint but it was a big one. There were hardly any ghosts in it! We saw I think 2 new ones when everything started going to hell. The old movies showed enough ghosts to make it actually seem like they were taking over the city.

Has anyone installed "Swinks" Proton gun mod yet???

I believe a few have, just have to read back through here or his thread. Mine is shipping soon.

I have.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/199#post-6610665

Do you have any specific questions? I love it.

Did you mean to quote my problem? I don't see a comment for it.

it has been quiet I am sure because of my small oversight on the proton gun length with the steel aprons. I modified the gun design and sent out replacements to batch 1 guys who should get them next week. Some of Batch 2 just left this week and rest on Monday so there will be more soon.

The way the slimmer switch works is slimers wire passes through a hole in a plate and pcb and maybe over time the assembly has moved a fraction - enough that the wire that slimer hangs from does not touch the plate when it swings to the back.

Slimer Assembly (resized).png

Curious once you press the pedal does it activate for so many seconds? Or can you hold the pedal down for the entire game play?

Currently it stays activated for as long as the pedal is pressed but there is a option to bridge 2 tabs on the servo boards to activate momentary at this stage.

Cool - momentary seems the way to go.

I do ask the guys to play how it is setup / sent and may have a new feature in 2022.

Not sure how or why that happened? I was going to comment on the slimer mechanism. Must have not completely cleared my draft post. Dangit pinside.

How do they mount to the play field?

easier to check out the manual located here

https://swinks.com.au/manuals

Anyone have mods for sale?

I’m looking for an authentic Stern topper and shooter rod. Hit me up if you have one you want to sell.

have some stuff here
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest

proton gun mod here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swinks-gb-proton-guns-mod-development

I might, after I get the GB I bought home.

Feel free to pm me

OK. I see. Thanks.

It looks like I should consider buying this kit. If this is possible, where do I look? Thanks.

this thread here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swinks-gb-proton-guns-mod-development

people can jump on to the list with no money down and do about 12 kits a month - just about the start Batch 3

Built my own topper using the Mattel 1:18 Ecto-1 model.

IMG_6227 (resized).jpg

Thanks to everyone who responded! I'll post more as my mod goes in!! Everyone have a safe and Happy holiday!!!

I can definitely see the utility and cool factor of these proton guns. But I need to digest my GB purchase and work these into my budget; Just buying this box has blown my budget for a bit

all good, enjoy your game

Who makes this translight ?
I like the incorporation w/ Lewis and Dana

708AA908-BF97-4E16-9684-21E87E7993F2 (resized).jpeg

That is a backglass for an LE same artist that did the pro and premium just made Slimer more prominent to fit the Slimer theme of the LE more. Zombie Yeti btw if that was your question but I assumed you thought it was an aftermarket alternative translite

I was hoping it was offered as a traditional translight

Beautiful Art

Appreciate the help identifying it to the LE only

For you guys thinking 11k is too high for a premium.... here is a pro for 10.8k

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/126099

Damn Right !!

My house was attacked also - poor stay puft

FA48BA92-89F1-451E-BA41-D7F5F2F09310 (resized).jpeg

Yes I have my Leg Lights.

a9bcdece678db9602a40d218681813cd5bc1f1a5 (resized).jpg

We are home and will get unloaded this afternoon. This pin turned out to be HUO; I bought from the original owner.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stern used these little bitty, chintzy, slider buttons that offer no protection at all when having to get the pin positioned for loading in a concrete driveway. Pissed me off.

IMG_8645 (resized).jpg

IMG_8652 (resized).jpg

IMG_8651 (resized).jpg

That shit is not going to happen anymore. I made some outriggers. The screws were matched up to the nail holes the buttons left behind. No new holes were drilled.

IMG_8648 (resized).jpg

The crappy little button Stern used is the one on top. I buy the larger slider buttons at retail for 25 cents each. Stern probably gets them for a nickel each and saved a couple of more pennies by getting the size challenged buttons. That is being real cheap. R-E-A-L cheap.

IMG_8647 (resized).jpg

I don't recall the Munsters I bought and sold as having these little bitty half-assed buttons nailed on.

Once I get settled in, I will paint the outriggers black and they will look like this. And I will have to touch up the cabinet.

IMG_8654 (resized).JPG

Nice work. I have to do the same to my game.

My seller had bought a mod that he had not installed yet. I am still learning my way around with GB. I do not know what everything is called.

This mod is replacing the 2D buildings in the back with some 3D buildings.

IMG_8659 (resized).jpg

I installed the building that sits on the right side behind the pops and in front of the marshmallow guy.

IMG_8670 (resized).jpg

They are made by someone named Sam. This is all I know. I would like to talk with Sam if anyone knows how to contact him.

His installation instructions need to be modified. The instructions say to remove the ramp to install this mod in front of Stay Puft. You do not need to remove the ramp. Do not remove the ramp.

GB (resized).jpeg
===========================================================================

Here is how to install this unit.

The slimer is attached to its rotating shaft with an Allen screw. Loosen that screw and swing Slimer out of the way. You can remove Slimer from the rotating shaft and lay him on the play field but it is not necessary. The rotating shaft is keyed so there is no way to reinstall Slimer incorrectly.

With slimer out of the way, you can access the 3 screws that attach the buildings to the top of the pop bumpers. Remove the buildings from the pop bumpers.

IMG_8663 (resized).jpg

With the pop bumper buildings out of the way, you can easily access the two small screws that attach the 2D buildings to their mounting tabs. A long shank #1 Phillips screwdriver would be best, although I did this swap out with a short shank screwdriver.

IMG_8665 (resized).jpg

So, EZ PZY, right? Nope. There is one more challenge. The factory 2D building measures .050" thick. The Mod buildings mounting point is thicker and measures approximately .110" thick. The Stern factory uses short screws to attach 2D parts to brackets. These screws are almost too short to install the 3D building.

IMG_8679 (resized).JPG

Both 2D and 3D buildings are shown here. You can see the difference in thickness.

IMG_8678 (resized).JPG

What should have been a 1 minute job to install this 3D building morphed into a 40 minute odyssey as I tried to get these screws installed. I finally had to get creative and make one of the screws a captive screw ( https://fastenerengineering.com/what-are-captive-screws/ ) to do this install.

These screws are very small. Like the screws you see inside a computer. I do not know where to source them. But if the 2 screws were 1/4" inch longer the install would have been a breeze. The short factory screws will make you cuss. If I had a long shank magnetic #1 Phillips screwdriver the install would have been easier, but I don't have such a tool and don't want to buy one.

Recap:

Do not remove the ramp. Swing Slimer out of the way, remove the pop buildings and pray for longer screws.

I hope this helps anybody else who might be getting ready to install these buildings mods.

I have not gotten to the buildings that are sitting behind the fire house.

It is a nice looking mod.
======================

Now, I need to make some airball protectors.

I have that same mod, can't remember this to be so difficult to setup. For sure I did not have to remove the popbumper buildings.

I was also able to install the right side buildings without dismantling anything. The left looked to be more of a challenge and I haven’t seriously tried it yet.
This was on a Pro so maybe Premium is different.

I suppose if I had an 18" #1 Phillips long screwdriver I could have done something like that. Beyond that, you both leave me scratching my head.

Well it's in there. So maybe it was just tooling you did not have.

Next time you need a magnetic screwdriver just grab a magnet from the fridge and stick it on the drivers shaft. Works fine for a little screw like that.

These are cool too. You can find them cheaper. But they allow a screwdriver to go back and forth between magnetic and non-magnetic.

https://www.amazon.com/Delcast-Magnetizer-Demagnetizer-Screwdriver-Small/dp/B00PBCDRN4/ref=sr_1_3_sspa

I cannot find a good picture of a Pro to see how they are put together.

I have figured out that if I go in with a 12" #1 Phillips head driver that I can access both screws that way. But without that long screwdriver, the buildings have to come off the pops or I cannot access.

But whatever way works, removing the ramp is not necessary as stated in the instructions.

In 2 days of ownership I have experienced the air balls I have been reading about. I see the remedy is to install a 12" clear plastic strap across the left lamp entryway. Meh.

I worked up something different. I am going to have to change the profile as I have had a couple of airballs get by. I'll have to experiment some but they are working pretty good, so far.

They are kind of hard to see but that is what I want. Small footprint. And "disappeared" when I am playing.

IMG_8695 (resized).jpg

Here is a better view. They are just a pair of small "paddles" I placed over the top of the Left Ramp standup targets.

Like I say, I need to alter the profile to stop last couple of air balls. If they work out, I might see if I can make a few to sell.

IMG_8730 (resized).JPG

nice control idea though the target angle is what causes most of the airballs but that is a smaller and cleaner look than the big plastic variations

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace