That’s awesome, a lot of games need these!

Video after they were installed.

I will have them posted up later today on the marketplace with my other machine kits. The city mod is about 1/4 of the way finished with the prototype printing.

Never ever thought about needing this. Never noticed this is a problem.

I only have them on my SWLE but it does make a noticeable difference.

Dumb question. What are the baffle kits for and how do they enhance the PF?

They prevent the light from bleeding outwards under the PF. This makes the inserts both brighter as well as serves to illuminate the entire insert more fully. This also has the benefit in some scenarios of preventing the insert next to it from partially lighting up unintendedly (especially in a play in the dark scenario).

I have them also and they hardly do anything for me...

With the wedges I installed yesterday and changing the flipper power from hard to Norm air balls are way less now but not completely gone

I had the wedges prior to the brackets.. Maybe I should try using them both at the same time hahaha. Nothing seems to work besides the plastic guards, but I would love to remove that.. Just never going to happen.

the problem with the airballs is understanding why it happens - this is from 2 things:

1. Stern went for cheaper design targets which are lower and vertical unlike the 90's Bally / WMS targets which were a bit higher and bent forward. When lower the ball hits the Stern vertical target right on the target rivet or a fraction above and with the target then going back past 90 degrees it then encourages the ball to rebound skyward giving you an airball.
2. The pan angle that the targets face in the playfield - which is the side to side pivot angle of the target. A glancing shot to the side edge still allows an airball.

So when you know what the problem there are 3 possible solutions:

1. Use a guard above which tames the airballs - the balls still go airborn briefly and then hit the guard and then back down to the playfield. Definitely reduces the massive airballs. These can be a little unsightly in my opinion but that comes down to personal opinion.
2. Use the upgraded steel brackets - which raises the target up 2mm which then means the ball hits the target under the rivet. Then the bracket also leans forward 5 degrees which keeps the ball down as when hit the ball is still kept down to the playfield removing most of the airballs. These brackets effectively modifying the target back to a Bally / WMS style target bracket.
3. Use the wedges which I had done a few years ago but after much testing and slo-mo recording improved the airballs some what as the wedges bring the target forward but the ball still can hit on the rivet or above and encourage a airball hence the removal and up grade to the brackets.

The problem with the pan angle is that it can not be removed as that is designed into the playfield. The overhanging guide would aid in taming the airballs from glancing side hits to the target and the bracket upgrade still does not remove this problem as it is playfield design issue hence why I never claim to remove all airballs. I still get an airball on average every 10 games from a glancing side shot but never on a straight on shot.

I need some help diagnosing a problem that has gotten worse. On my Prem, when I turn the game on, the subway lock fires like it's trying to get a ball out. However, there is no ball there. It fires off several times. I haven't counted but it does it for a while. It doesn't give an error and will eventually just stop and allow a game to be started.

The game then sometimes plays normally. However, sometimes when a ball drains and there's one or more in the subway lock, the game will put a new ball in the shooter lane correctly, and then also eject a ball from the subway lock. If you then let one ball drain and try to keep the other in play, the game will go into the end-of-ball sequence.

I don't know if this is a subway lock issue, subway eject issue, or the trough not detecting all of the balls. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my favorite games, and it's frustrating not being able to play it reliably. Thanks in advance!

Anyone know where I can get these speaker acrylics? Mezelmods is out of stock and I don't want to pay almost $50 (double the normal price) to get them from Germany. Thanks

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Check the switch in switch test on the subway and see if it's showing the proper status. It sounds to me like the switch is showing closed all the time and needs to be adjusted.

Doug at speaker light kits has something similar.

Finally have most of the parts needed to start on my topper today. Still need the ghost trap plastic and lens’ if anyone has a spare.

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Is there a bug when using both flippers simultaneously to make selections in ESP video mode?

Not sure if I was just being given answers for every 10 ghost I collected or what, but the game even seemed to award me points and another round of ESP when I pushed both flippers on the "collect" option of the mode.

They aren't just similar.....

LoL, I was trying to be subtle

I bought these and they look great, scroll down to the GB ones.

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/Acrylic-Designs.html

Awesome, I just bought them. Thanks guys!

you could use this - not cheap
https://cointaker.com/products/ghostbusters-3d-ghost-trap

The domes are just regular domes you can buy with any pinball parts shop
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8662-13

Guys I'll check this whole thread over the next few days, but I had to replace the scoop protector on the library with a new cliffy and during the install I thought I heard something roll on the playfield but couldn't be sure. Well after the install I noticed the captive balls and gate would jam on the plastic.

So I'm guessing that there may have been a small plastic spacer under the plastic where one or both lock nuts are attached. If so I need to know what thickness it was as the suspected missing one is lost in the pf as I couldn't find it in the cabinet.

I'll have to make one from an old post spacer.

Thanks in advance.

Hmmm I think you may have just overtightened the plastic.

How are these mounted
Thanks

With that design...I highly recommend you mount them in the order of...

From back of speaker panel:

acrylic design (mirror side out)
hex standoffs (included with Speaker Light Kit)
Speaker Light Kit light frame
speaker grill
speaker

If you have upgraded speaker that has extended tweeters that protrude past the speakers mounting points I recommend you remove the original speaker grills from the mount stack all together.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits)

PS: More back in stock soon.

Speaking of the library plastic, just a quick heads-up to new GB owners to check this service bulletin at the link below. It helps to prevent flasher #129 shorting to the metal beneath it. I'm sure most of us here have done this, but hope this helps save you some trouble!

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB188.pdf

Thank you I'll loosen the nuts and see how I go

Quick update I found a small black spacer on the floor. Unsure where it went but think it may have been under the longer Phillips screw rails side of the library plastic. Could someone confirm please

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Oh before I throw it out. Here is the stern protector that broke in the library scoop. I only noticed because I found the broken oiece in the cabinet. Might pay to just check yours if this would concern you.

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Yes there’s a spacer under the library to tilt the plastic towards the playfield in case a ball hops up there.

Topper installed…need to the wire ghost trap and flashers still but I’m happy with it. I changed the white LEDs across the top to color changers for now.

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Does anyone have the Pin stadium Neo installed on this machine? I got a set but it has only one set of clips for the gi and another with a 2 pin connector and for the love of god i cant find a spot for it to connect.

The instructions on their site does not even seem to show this style of connection and the controller with a usb connection.

Has anyone used this as a topper?

Ghostbusters Plasma Series Spengler’s Neutrona Wand Premium Collectible

Toys R Us has them and they are very reasonably priced. There looks to be a lot of interaction with this so I am curious to know who here would have the know how of how to tap/wire into it. Maybe with an arduino to trigger things based on specific lights in the pin?

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That would be awesome! The original topper is highly expensive unobtainium. Saw it listed on ebay for 4000 USD! Insane.

And I don't actually like the Stern topper so even at $1K it would a non-starter for me.

Well, I had to go buy one of these and see how it looks up there. I like it! Now to find the arduino magicians out there...

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Wow !! That looks awesome.

what does it normally do out of the box? What effects etc? How much is it too? Looks amazing

here you go embryon , is a prop from the new movie

https://www.mightyape.com.au/product/ghostbusters-neutrona-wand-prop-replica/33576862?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqKS0r4mo8gIV2AkrCh2-AgntEAQYAyABEgLAOfD_BwE

check out from the 8min mark

I believe that they are $99USD. It was $146.99 ($166 total) CDN here. Totally worth it IMO. The batteries (3x AA) go into the end of the handle and this has two screw in caps, one is flat like in my picture and the other allows you to connect a hose/tube. This might be to connect to a separately released proton pack later, who knows

swinks This thing is cool, many small metal pieces like the switches, the meter display (LEDs) is cool and the intensity adjustment knob for sound and vibration works quite well. you actually have to switch on the toggles in the right order to power it up.

Wow, this guy is a bit of a hack. I was surprised at how much of a collection he has and yet carelessly rips through the box. He seemed quite bothered about the base being plastic and brown. To be fair, you would want to glue and secure it to use as a topper though but above all didn't appear to have read the included manual. The 'green lever' is used to release (pop out) the end. You manually push in the end and then use the lever to release it. It also makes different sounds while retracted and released. It also took him until the end of the video to determine that the intensifier knob on to works. Odd way to cover a new product but regardless I think that it is something that would likely sell for much more.

Here is a more enthused reviewer,one who not only read the manual but also interviewed one of the prop guys from the movie:

Hopefully a few others here get one and we can try to find someone to help tie this into the pin. I'm not sure how exactly but I like the potential. Of course if nothing else it does look quite cool on top or you can create a mount and mount/hang it on either side of the backbox. I will look to see if I can convert this the from 3x AA batteries to a DC adapter at the very least.

thanks

I had to get one yesterday because it so cool. I also wold like to find a way to tie it in to work with the machine. I think having it actually do stuff during game play might be hard to notice over the game volume. I was thinking of possibly trying to start out easy and set it up so when you power up the machine some sort of controller can replicate the turn on switch sequence so you can hear it power up as the machine boots.

wolffcub Happy to hear that you grabbed one. Share pics when you have it setup.

I too won't be too particular about integrating it right now. What you've described would be a fun start.

I ain't afraid of no ghost (busters).

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Pm me if you are liking this.

Got my light baffle kit listed now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119354

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After 15 months of ownership, finally broke 2 billion! No idea how I did it, lol. Had WCWS going for a bit, got down to single ball and then hit Storage Facility. This game, like TMNT (another Dwight game), is so multiball-heavy as far as scoring goes. Regardless, stoked to have finally gotten over the hump!