Quoted from tasman:GOT THEM FROM MARCO
Call them, and ask for another set or refund.
(Topic ID: 158155)
Linked Games
Ghostbusters (LE)
Stern, 2016-
Ghostbusters (Premium)
Stern, 2016
-
Ghostbusters (Pro)
Stern, 2016
Topic Gallery
Quoted from tasman:GOT THEM FROM pinball life
I would definitely send that picture to pinballlife. That is ridiculous if you just bought those. Now if you bought them and threw them on the dash of your car for a year.....than yeah that’s normal LOL
Quoted from tasman:GOT THEM FROM pinball life
Contact them about it and get replacements and hopefully they'll throw their stock out so no one else gets them.
Williamston, MI
Quoted from tasman:GOT THEM FROM pinball life
That’s crazy. I’ve never seen rubber deteriorate so badly, so fast on a fairly recent release. Those rubbers look 30 years old.
I create alot of static mods with via general lighting and predominately in Bally / Williams games.
I have a potential mod for a Ghostbusters but potentially other stern games that runs on 5-12vdc and will power it via Pinball Life's power supply board for mods. But I did not want all of the mod lit up for the whole time rather triggered when a light feature is lit up.
Can anyone help me with some advice on how to trigger a mod when a game feature (small led pcb) is triggered?
Quoted from swinks:I create alot of static mods with via general lighting and predominately in Bally / Williams games.
I have a potential mod for a Ghostbusters but potentially other stern games that runs on 5-12vdc and will power it via Pinball Life's power supply board for mods. But I did not want all of the mod lit up for the whole time rather triggered when a light feature is lit up.
Can anyone help me with some advice on how to trigger a mod when a game feature (small led pcb) is triggered?
Mezel mods did this with the ghostbuster walking stay puff, I believe the trigger board was made by Tim.....? or on here Outcida he also made the Data East Jurassic Park raptor cage etc... fantastic work.
^^ don't quote me on the collaboration work, but maybe Tim can help you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/raptor-crate-mod-for-jurassic-park
Quoted from camcamaro1991:Mezel mods did this with the ghostbuster walking stay puff, I believe the trigger board was made by Tim.....? or on here Outcida he also made the Data East Jurassic Park raptor cage etc... fantastic work.
^^ don't quote me on the collaboration work, but maybe Tim can help you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/raptor-crate-mod-for-jurassic-park
thanks for that, I will sketch it out to make it clearer and go from there
i was the first response a few day ago so ralphwiggum at YOUBENTMYWOOKIE sent me a free set of his ghostbusters linticular cards. they look awesome but are hard to photograph. you look at the rule card from one direction you see ecto 1, the other direction you see slimer. highly recommend these for you own ghostbusters machine.
IMG_0344 (resized).jpgIMG_0345 (resized).jpgIMG_0346 (resized).jpgIMG_0349 (resized).jpgIMG_0347 (resized).jpgIMG_0348 (resized).jpgYes I like his work too!
10C160B7-0616-48B4-996F-0A9B22B40B91 (resized).jpeg169A97A2-9302-4E16-AFA0-57021B617207 (resized).jpeg7B6C91F1-3021-46D2-ACC0-677CFD7BA2AF (resized).jpeg8FCBFA57-A379-4B35-B82B-C84C67094BDA (resized).jpegDB63C398-130C-41E3-83AD-FF3FA6F5C06E (resized).jpegE656B0A8-7CFB-4FFA-B265-E2ED2CA375AA (resized).jpegE7E65385-F83F-497F-ACD8-92DC06933393 (resized).jpegF56E4743-9CD3-4AC7-9FB4-24B244981647 (resized).jpegQuoted from zerbam:like i said hard to get good photos
It really is... I wish I had a solution... but the lenticular material shoots light everywhere. There is a pinsider here that did a pretty good job experimenting, and got pretty close.
Either way, I appreciate you guys taking pictures, and I am glad you like the cards!
Quoted from Green-Machine:I would definitely send that picture to pinballlife. That is ridiculous if you just bought those. Now if you bought them and threw them on the dash of your car for a year.....than yeah that’s normal LOL
Sent them a picture and we will se what they have to say. Just want to make sure this doesn't happen to anyone else
Quoted from ralphwiggum:It really is... I wish I had a solution... but the lenticular material shoots light everywhere. There is a pinsider here that did a pretty good job experimenting, and got pretty close.
Either way, I appreciate you guys taking pictures, and I am glad you like the cards!
Take a short video of the transition and turn it into a gif. I've seen that work well on lenticular poster adds. You can also create a gif of the two raw images transitioning from one to the other to net the same affect.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Take a short video of the transition and turn it into a gif. I've seen that work well on lenticular poster adds. You can also create a gif of the two raw images transitioning from one to the other to net the same affect.
The Lenticular transition is the easy part, I have done that. The 3D in the real photos is the challenge. I have found some software that sims the 3D, which is the closest I can get. Take a look at my playground here to see all the different effects- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lenticular-apron-cards
Hi all - I recently bought a GB premium that has a permanent center post screwed into the playfield. I am wondering if anyone has any experience removing a center post like this and trying to understand what my options are. I don't have anything against folks using a center post on the game, I think its just my personal preference to have the post removed if possible to restore the original play style. If I unscrew the center post, what are my options for filling in the post hole? Any wood glue or clear coat recommendations, or perhaps just wood glue and mylar? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Quoted from R_Coles:Hi all - I recently bought a GB premium that has a permanent center post screwed into the playfield. I am wondering if anyone has any experience removing a center post like this and trying to understand what my options are. I don't have anything against folks using a center post on the game, I think its just my personal preference to have the post removed if possible to restore the original play style. If I unscrew the center post, what are my options for filling in the post hole? Any wood glue or clear coat recommendations, or perhaps just wood glue and mylar? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance for any guidance!
yeah that is a tough one as someone has done something permanent and what ever you do is not a perfect solution.
I suppose if I were in your position I would be inclined to drill 2 holes - 1st the diameter of the post say 2 mm deep and then continue a second hole 2mm larger diameter than the post mounting bolt - the first still posing a small risk of damage. Then have 2 Shapeways purple bungs - one for no post and the other for remounting a post and both purple in colour to blend into the artwork. If using a forstner bits you should get a nice clean cut and no clear coating to do. In you need the bungs I can design based on your holes and you just pay the shapeways cost (print and postage).
Quoted from swinks:yeah that is a tough one as someone has done something permanent and what ever you do is not a perfect solution.
I suppose if I were in your position I would be inclined to drill 2 holes - 1st the diameter of the post say 2 mm deep and then continue a second hole 2mm larger diameter than the post mounting bolt - the first still posing a small risk of damage. Then have 2 Shapeways purple bungs - one for no post and the other for remounting a post and both purple in colour to blend into the artwork. If using a forstner bits you should get a nice clean cut and no clear coating to do. In you need the bungs I can design based on your holes and you just pay the shapeways cost (print and postage).
Hey, thanks for your response. Just to clarify, you mean do the drilling after the post is unscrewed and drill in from the top of the playfield, correct? Its a little more involved than I wanted to get into as I'm not 100% confident in my skills in that area but it is something to consider....Im not so much concerned if there is a small hole area in the drain that I would need to fill from a cosmetic perspective...although it wouldnt be a sophisticated solution like you are describing.
Quoted from R_Coles:Hey, thanks for your response. Just to clarify, you mean do the drilling after the post is unscrewed and drill in from the top of the playfield, correct? Its a little more involved than I wanted to get into as I'm not 100% confident in my skills in that area but it is something to consider....Im not so much concerned if there is a small hole area in the drain that I would need to fill from a cosmetic perspective...although it wouldnt be a sophisticated solution like you are describing.
yeah I know not the easiest but it does become usable
the other alternative is carefully drill through the size of the current bolt and do a slight countersink and drop in a countersunk allen headed bolt and nut on the underside - neat, no clearcoating as opposed to filling a hole, painting, clearcoat, mylar etc. Interested in what you do and what it looks like as I am sure there are a few others out their like this.
Quoted from R_Coles:Hi all - I recently bought a GB premium that has a permanent center post screwed into the playfield. I am wondering if anyone has any experience removing a center post like this and trying to understand what my options are. I don't have anything against folks using a center post on the game, I think its just my personal preference to have the post removed if possible to restore the original play style. If I unscrew the center post, what are my options for filling in the post hole? Any wood glue or clear coat recommendations, or perhaps just wood glue and mylar? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Stern sells a playfield clear coat repair kit, my distributor sent me one a while back. its kind of like a glue/cement put it on and let dry, just fill in the hole and it might take 2 or more coats.
Your answer may be in here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
There are many great ideas shared in this thread. I typically search images related to my problem, then open those responses and start reading, as the thread is rather large.
Based on info in this thread you may try81IJJsNt50L._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg
You should be able to get it pretty close to flush, without any sanding at all. When close to the surface, you could dab some colored acrylic paint in the desired color over the Kwikwood. Then you could try a clearcoat repair kit to raise it even with the surface. Again, these ideas were gleemed from @vids thread.
And always practice first, on a scrap piece of wood!!!
Could you post a picture of the area you are wanting to repair?
Quoted from swinks:yeah that is a tough one as someone has done something permanent and what ever you do is not a perfect solution.
I suppose if I were in your position I would be inclined to drill 2 holes - 1st the diameter of the post say 2 mm deep and then continue a second hole 2mm larger diameter than the post mounting bolt - the first still posing a small risk of damage. Then have 2 Shapeways purple bungs - one for no post and the other for remounting a post and both purple in colour to blend into the artwork. If using a forstner bits you should get a nice clean cut and no clear coating to do. In you need the bungs I can design based on your holes and you just pay the shapeways cost (print and postage).
If it were me, I'd just use a flush pop mech anchor screw and be done with it. It would be flush or virtually flush and just leave a little shiny metal circle the ball would roll over fine.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:If it were me, I'd just use a flush pop mech anchor screw and be done with it. It would be flush or virtually flush and just leave a little shiny metal circle the ball would roll over fine.
Not a bad idea. Love hearing different ideas. May come in handy in the future.
Québec City, QC
Quoted from R_Coles:Hi all - I recently bought a GB premium that has a permanent center post screwed into the playfield. I am wondering if anyone has any experience removing a center post like this and trying to understand what my options are. I don't have anything against folks using a center post on the game, I think its just my personal preference to have the post removed if possible to restore the original play style. If I unscrew the center post, what are my options for filling in the post hole? Any wood glue or clear coat recommendations, or perhaps just wood glue and mylar? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance for any guidance!
I'm curious...did you know a center post was drilled into the playfield before you bought it?
Quoted from R_Coles:Hi all - I recently bought a GB premium that has a permanent center post screwed into the playfield. I am wondering if anyone has any experience removing a center post like this and trying to understand what my options are. I don't have anything against folks using a center post on the game, I think its just my personal preference to have the post removed if possible to restore the original play style. If I unscrew the center post, what are my options for filling in the post hole? Any wood glue or clear coat recommendations, or perhaps just wood glue and mylar? Any other recommendations? Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Can you post a pic to take the wonder of what you are trying to repair, it would make it easier for repair suggestions if you are going that route.
Thanks for all the suggestions and good ideas. I don't have the time at the moment to start the process of removing the post, but when I do I'll make sure to post some pics on it etc and yes, I did know there was a post installed when I bought the game, its not a deal breaker for me but eventually I will remove it. Thanks!
Quoted from hd60609:Your answer may be in here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
There are many great ideas shared in this thread. I typically search images related to my problem, then open those responses and start reading, as the thread is rather large.
Based on info in this thread you may try[quoted image]
You should be able to get it pretty close to flush, without any sanding at all. When close to the surface, you could dab some colored acrylic paint in the desired color over the Kwikwood. Then you could try a clearcoat repair kit to raise it even with the surface. Again, these ideas were gleemed from @vids thread.
And always practice first, on a scrap piece of wood!!!
Could you post a picture of the area you are wanting to repair?
This is a good thread, thanks!
Quoted from phlegmer:Hey GB fans!
I was at Walmart yesterday and noted that Hot Wheels now has Ecto-1's for sale! Maybe it's been mentioned before but was new to me. Potential mod for our machines?[quoted image]
yeah there are 2 versions of the car, replica and a cartoon style - I went with a cartoon style but both have the same wheel placement and car length. I installed on on the shooter lane using a custom bracket that suits the playfield level and protector - it has holes in it for securing and running a led to make the cabin glow
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:If it were me, I'd just use a flush pop mech anchor screw and be done with it. It would be flush or virtually flush and just leave a little shiny metal circle the ball would roll over fine.
yeah my second suggestion was very similar to this and agree what I would do as well.
Quoted from R_Coles:Yep, I think this is what I’m leaning towards. Any recommendations for an anchor that would be flush?
Based on the size of the existing hole, the pop anchor could be flush or very close to it as it sits. At worst you could widen the top layer of the hole ever so slightly if you wanted it completely flush to the level of the clear. I would just get it in hand and go from there.
Quoted from swinks:yeah there are 2 versions of the car, replica and a cartoon style - I went with a cartoon style but both have the same wheel placement and car length. I installed on on the shooter lane using a custom bracket that suits the playfield level and protector - it has holes in it for securing and running a led to make the cabin glow
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I like this mod. Question, do you feel that the mount that you used from Shapeways will stay put and not sag or break with time? Is it metal?
Quoted from Rager170:I like this mod. Question, do you feel that the mount that you used from Shapeways will stay put and not sag or break with time? Is it metal?
no it is solid nylon and has not sagged at all and it won't
in has slots to fit into the bubble and side guard
the purple looks good and goes with the playfield art or the grey suits the road art - I liked the purple and has been in my game for about 2 years and not a issue.
Quoted from swinks:no it is solid nylon and has not sagged at all and it won't
in has slots to fit into the bubble and side guard
the purple looks good and goes with the playfield art or the grey suits the road art - I liked the purple and has been in my game for about 2 years and not a issue.
Good to know, thanks.
Just wanted to ask one more time before I buy generic ones.
Thanks guys!
Quoted from Jherre6:Are the side rails available anywhere anymore? I found one set of the green, but I’d like the black.
Quoted from Motorcitypinball:[quoted image]
I could just about use this as a topper.
$50 at Target
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from mbwalker:I could just about use this as a topper.
$50 at Target[quoted image][quoted image]
That is cool. Hooking some LEDs to all the lights and it would really cool
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Same offer, different cards.... this time in 3D. If you live in the Continental US, and haven't done this offer with me before, here you go. If you like these cards and can take some pictures of them installed, I will send you a set for free in exchange for your pictures.
First person to POST IN THIS THREAD with your interest, gets the free set.
Simulated 3d Effect-
[quoted image]Link to Pinside shop if you are interested in purchasing a set-
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie/04893-ghostbusters-lenticular-apron-cards
Thanks!
Hello from your neighbor in MN. I just bought them. They look really nice.
Hi all -Having some trouble with the Scoleri Bros. opto switches. I previously tightened the spring on both of the targets because they were not consistently dropping, but now I'm running into an issue when they are down, the opto doesnt seem to be triggered, so it keeps trying to drop the targets. Are the optos just dirty or is this related to tightening the spring? If they are dirty, wouldn’t they always show as closed instead of open? Any guidance is appreciated, thanks!
Werribee
Quoted from swinks:when you want the Ghostbusters Service fast, this is what they pull out of the shed[quoted image]
What the!
Quoted from TaylorVA:I designed these to help prevent the guide hops that plague GBs. They were manufactured by Cliff Rinear out of brushed stainless and look factory IMO. [quoted image]
Order these last week and got them today. Super easy to install and already stopped a wild ball from rail hopping. Thanks !
Quoted from djsoup:Looking for some help.. Took the glass off my premium.. and noticed this post just behind the slimer mech.. I feel like something should be here but I'm not sure.. Anyone know?
[quoted image]
Nothing goes there. That is correct
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Nothing goes there. That is correct
Thanks. It just looks like something should be there.. like a post or a spotlight or something.
Quoted from djsoup:Thanks. It just looks like something should be there.. like a post or a spotlight or something.
Yea, they bug me too lol. I usually plug it with a screw.
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