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(Topic ID: 158155)

Ghostbusters Club - We Got One!!!


By 30FathomDave

4 years ago



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  • 8,806 posts
  • 711 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 263 Pinsiders

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There are 8806 posts in this topic. You are on page 134 of 177.
#6651 1 year ago

"Ghostbusters – We’ve recently allocated additional resources to the Ghostbusters update."

#6652 1 year ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

"Ghostbusters – We’ve recently allocated additional resources to the Ghostbusters update."

Is this the latest update?

#6653 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Yes, but it was a copy and paste from last month.

Damn. Thanks

#6654 1 year ago

I just finished readying my LE, so like everyone else I now wait.

#6655 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Is this the latest update?

Yes, from today's SotU

#6656 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Does anyone know if you can change the auto launch strength? I was looking last night and couldnt find the setting.

As mentioned there is no setting. However, it has been suggested to get a stiffer/stronger spring to help tame the auto launch a bit. I believe this is the one that people are using.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

#6657 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

As mentioned there is no setting. However, it has been suggested to get a stiffer/stronger spring to help tame the auto launch a bit. I believe this is the one that people are using.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

It doesn't really fix the problem. I've had that spring for awhile and still get rejects. Hopefully they'll add a strength setting in the big update.

#6658 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

+1 that is the fix. Wasn't a problem on my first playfield but definitely was on the replacement

Ive never pealed off mylar. Do you have any suggested tools or tips for getting it off?

#6659 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Ive never pealed off mylar. Do you have any suggested tools or tips for getting it off?

It should be easy as the Mylar probably hasn't he down very long. I removed mine by simply lifting it. Just lift slowly and keep the tension close to the playfield. Don't rush. I may have use a little bit of white spirits or the like to help soften the glue and finally remove the glue completely. It's only a small piece of mylar so don't panic too much. Just take it slow and watch for any paint damage but damage is highly unlikely

#6660 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Ive never pealed off mylar. Do you have any suggested tools or tips for getting it off?

Dust spray like they use on keyboards.

#6661 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Ive never pealed off mylar. Do you have any suggested tools or tips for getting it off?

Heat gun works wonders.

#6662 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

As mentioned there is no setting. However, it has been suggested to get a stiffer/stronger spring to help tame the auto launch a bit. I believe this is the one that people are using.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

Quoted from spidey:

It doesn't really fix the problem. I've had that spring for awhile and still get rejects. Hopefully they'll add a strength setting in the big update.

Thanks for the info.

I recently purchased one of the orbit plastics for $20 to see if it fixes. Havent had a chance to install yet.. I would imagine a simple auto launch setting to lower that down would certainly be beneficial. I feel like any autolaunch never gets around the orbit.. ever.

#6663 1 year ago

Has anyone purchased a replacement plastics set that might have some spares to part out?

#6664 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Can someone share a picture of the center captive ball and gate(s) area where there is a black nylon spacer? Just putting everything back together and this fell out when disassembling this area.
Thanks!

Do you still need this? I couldn't see a black spacer when I looked...

#6665 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

It should be easy as the Mylar probably hasn't he down very long. I removed mine by simply lifting it. Just lift slowly and keep the tension close to the playfield. Don't rush. I may have use a little bit of white spirits or the like to help soften the glue and finally remove the glue completely. It's only a small piece of mylar so don't panic too much. Just take it slow and watch for any paint damage but damage is highly unlikely

Thanks - Ill give it a shot!

#6666 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Do you still need this? I couldn't see a black spacer when I looked...

No longer needed but thanks for asking.

My replacement PF came with the Stern stainless steel plate so I gathered that I needed to raise the black metal top piece to accommodate. Just inserted a couple of washers and Simmer still clears the plate nicely. Not sure where the single small spacer actually sat.

#6667 1 year ago

I'll have all the prototypes by Saturday but I redesigned the slimer slime assembly, so you'll have 2 options. I also tapered the flasher dome covers so they fit perfectly snug.

If you don't mind spending the extra money you can order all of these in clear and paint them with Tamiya clear in order to get a translucent look. Once I know they fit perfectly I'll post the links.

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#6668 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Thanks - Ill give it a shot!

Success - I was able to peel it off with my hands. Once I started peeling from the top it was much easier. The removal of the mylar fixed the issue of the ball jumping - game plays so much smoother now

#6669 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Success - I was able to peel it off with my hands. Once I started peeling from the top it was much easier. The removal of the mylar fixed the issue of the ball jumping - game plays so much smoother now

Sweeeeet!!!!

#6670 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Success - I was able to peel it off with my hands. Once I started peeling from the top it was much easier. The removal of the mylar fixed the issue of the ball jumping - game plays so much smoother now

Great to hear. For future reference, you could peel it easily because it was freshly done. Don't go and buy a 30 year game and try the same. You might have an unwanted outcome.

I removed mine the same way and either used white spirits or most likely eucalyptus oil to remove any glue residue

#6671 1 year ago

I hope everyone else’s day starts better LOL

54DFBB34-0030-4ABD-BFF5-1DBBD70CF318 (resized).jpeg
#6672 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I hope everyone else’s day starts better LOL[quoted image]

Is that a broken, used rubber!!!

#6673 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I hope everyone else’s day starts better LOL[quoted image]

How did that happen?? Thats the worst!

#6674 1 year ago

I snuck a quick game this morning and the damn thing snapped lol

All good

Just wished I had a replacement

This would never of happened with the newest code LOL

#6675 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Is that a broken, used rubber!!!

No it’s a Titan Clear

#6676 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

I hope everyone else’s day starts better LOL[quoted image]

You should never throw you used rubbers on your playfield like that, thats just nasty.

#6677 1 year ago

Just replaced the tmolding on my LE to match. Super easy to do highly recommend it. Will do the same on my new jp when it comes.... Just need to figure out what color

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#6678 1 year ago

I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?

There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.

I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.

I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.

I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?

Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.

#6679 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?
There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.
I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.
I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.
I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?
Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.

In regards to the auto launcher strength, yes. Mine hardly ever makes it around the orbit from auto launch. I bought a $20 piece that goes over that area that is supposed to keep the ball in place. Let me see if I can find it for you...

In regards to the right ramp, from what I understood, people who wanted to change the way their flippers sat, would need to adjust that ramp to be able to make it as the angle of the flipper changed. Its a hard shot regardless, but luckily I feel that its not needed really all that often. Unless I am wrong and havent seen that yet haha. For me, the only time the ball comes back down is when it isnt a perfect shot. With a good shot, it goes up fine. All these machines are different from one to another, so some need tweaking.

#6680 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

In regards to the auto launcher strength, yes. Mine hardly ever makes it around the orbit from auto launch. I bought a $20 piece that goes over that area that is supposed to keep the ball in place. Let me see if I can find it for you...

Here you go. Not sure if he is still selling them but i would reach out. I have yet to install this. Maybe this weekend.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sale-ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protectors-2

#6681 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Here you go. Not sure if he is still selling them but i would reach out. I have yet to install this. Maybe this weekend.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sale-ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protectors-2

I bought one of these but took it off because the ball kept getting stuck on top of it and you couldn't get it off without tilting or removing the glass.

#6682 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I bought one of these but took it off because the ball kept getting stuck on top of it and you couldn't get it off without tilting or removing the glass.

Oh really! Well, lol, I hope that doesnt happen.

Would you be able to drill holes to re-adjust how it sits? Ill have to play with it I guess.

They really really need an auto launch strength option!

#6683 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?
There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.
I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.
I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.
I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?
Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.

I will be no help regarding pictures for I am at work at the moment but the idea of the shorter hex screw is that it lowers that right ramp a little which allows the ball to not get rejected so much. The problem with that shot is that it is super tight and has a very sharp turn to it. Because the original hex screw is longer, it is a steep shot so with the sharp turn and steepness, it causes that ball to not make it up that ramp. The shorter hex screw lowers the ramp so even with a not so clean shot at it, it will make it around. I changed mine out about a year ago and it made a huge difference. Highly recommended.

#6684 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

I bought one of these but took it off because the ball kept getting stuck on top of it and you couldn't get it off without tilting or removing the glass.

Thanks. I misspoke. This is the one I had/have. The first one broke. The second one worked a little better but as you note the ball would somehow get on top of it and would need to open the game. It happened too many times so removed it.

#6685 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

I will be no help regarding pictures for I am at work at the moment but the idea of the shorter hex screw is that it lowers that right ramp a little which allows the ball to not get rejected so much. The problem with that shot is that it is super tight and has a very sharp turn to it. Because the original hex screw is longer, it is a steep shot so with the sharp turn and steepness, it causes that ball to not make it up that ramp. The shorter hex screw lowers the ramp so even with a not so clean shot at it, it will make it around. I changed mine out about a year ago and it made a huge difference. Highly recommended.

Is it this post that goes through the plastic above the helmet that I should get a slightly smaller post?

If this post is lowered, would the ball still be going downhill as it goes to the left flipper?

Thanks!
IMG_2005 (resized).jpeg

#6686 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I have a Premium and read about the middle lower right ramp being hard to get and the ball comes back down. There were some comments about changing the size of the hex post I think to 1 3/4"? I cannot figure out where and what would change to make this a more "do-able" shot. Does someone have a photo and can point me to the post that should be changed?
There were also comments about removing a piece of mylar near a switch on the loop. I am not sure where that is. I'll look but any photos are appreciated.
I did buy the shape ways brackets but added the plastic protector on top. If I open the game to work on the other stuff, I might as well change these too.
I love Cliffy protectors. But removed them on the Scolari brothers pop up targets since it appeared to create air balls.
I did buy the protector that goes in front of the Stay Puft guy. It broke soon after and I was sent another and it broke. So I just removed it. Are the comments about reducing the coil strength on the plunger in regards to stopping the ball from banging into something up there and just coming down the right loop?
Sorry for all the questions, but it is time I do some fixing up in preparation for the new code.

The ramp is too steep, too tight and my ball came back about 40% of the time. There's a Phillips screw on the ramp and you have to remove it. Then raise the ramp a bit and you'll see the hex spacer. Remove the spacer - you can trim the spacer (Dremel) a bit and reinstall but if you go too far there are no threads left. You can remove the spacer altogether, squash the ramp down and see how you like it- but you'll need to replace the hex spacer for stability eventually. I went with a 5/8 inch or so spacer from Marco and now I make the shot (when it's aimed correctly) about 90% of the time. You might buy a few spacers in 1/4 inch increments to find the one that suits you. This is one adjustment that makes the game much more enjoyable.

#6687 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Is it this post that goes through the plastic above the helmet that I should get a slightly smaller post?
If this post is lowered, would the ball still be going downhill as it goes to the left flipper?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Yes - that's the post to change to a shorter one - about 1/4" shorter. It makes a big difference as the slope up the ramp is lowered.

#6688 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Is it this post that goes through the plastic above the helmet that I should get a slightly smaller post?
If this post is lowered, would the ball still be going downhill as it goes to the left flipper?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

What the two posters said above. It's the hex spacer that needs to be shorter. Yes the ball will still go downhill and it will go a lot faster as well.

#6689 1 year ago

Thanks. The post is 2". I did have a 1 3/4" post. I think the pictures are in order.

I played a game and got it up the ramp 5 times with left flipper and 2 times with right. A few times, it went half way up and down. But it was nice to see it actually work more than 1 time every few games.

IMG_2006 (resized).jpegIMG_2007 (resized).jpegIMG_2008 (resized).jpegIMG_2009 (resized).jpegIMG_2010 (resized).jpegIMG_2011 (resized).jpegIMG_2012 (resized).jpegIMG_2013 (resized).jpegIMG_2014 (resized).jpegIMG_2015 (resized).jpeg

#6690 1 year ago

The leaf spring (I believe it is called) at the top of the subway ramp does not register when the ball passes by. I believe it got bend backwards when a ball rolled back on it when I was lifting the playfield. I have tried to bend the metal leaf with little luck it the correct result. It either does not register or if i bend it too much it does not allow the ball to pass.

Any ideas how to fix this?

20190809_194246 (resized).jpg
#6691 1 year ago

try pushing the yellow button on the switch to see if it is working.

#6692 1 year ago
Quoted from freddy:

try pushing the yellow button on the switch to see if it is working.

Yes the yellow button is working, it's just that the silver leaf does not push back far enough to push the yellow button down all the way. If I bend the silver leaf then it stops the ball from passing, so no win. So I can have the ball pass and no engagement if the yellow button or have the leaf push the yellow button but prevent the ball from passing.

#6693 1 year ago
Quoted from psexton:

Yes the yellow button is working, it's just that the silver leaf does not push back far enough to push the yellow button down all the way. If I bend the silver leaf then it stops the ball from passing, so no win. So I can have the ball pass and no engagement if the yellow button or have the leaf push the yellow button but prevent the ball from passing.

Kinda hard to explain, but ya don't want to bend the part above the playfield "up". You want to adjust it close to the switch and bend that portion down towards the button.

#6694 1 year ago
Quoted from psexton:

The leaf spring (I believe it is called) at the top of the subway ramp does not register when the ball passes by. I believe it got bend backwards when a ball rolled back on it when I was lifting the playfield. I have tried to bend the metal leaf with little luck it the correct result. It either does not register or if i bend it too much it does not allow the ball to pass.
Any ideas how to fix this?[quoted image]

Keep on messing with it until it breaks...seriously though it's a pain in the ass. Mine was doing the same thing for awhile. I had to always keep adjusting it. It got to a point where it become so loose that the metal switch just broke off. I have replaced it with a standard switch from Marco and that solved the problem for a long time.

#6695 1 year ago

Here is the green and pink slime flasher cover. This is the non tapered design. Just apply with double sided tape.

67655951_2401279303490715_1667084344692310016_n (resized).jpg67735728_1340588589424320_9142174473238085632_n (resized).jpg67753128_500905950668566_4070346858675830784_n (resized).jpg67775070_503472217111841_7594431666085429248_n (resized).jpg67906125_405810226948932_1199524962080129024_n (resized).jpg
#6696 1 year ago
Quoted from psexton:

The leaf spring (I believe it is called) at the top of the subway ramp does not register when the ball passes by. I believe it got bend backwards when a ball rolled back on it when I was lifting the playfield. I have tried to bend the metal leaf with little luck it the correct result. It either does not register or if i bend it too much it does not allow the ball to pass.
Any ideas how to fix this?[quoted image]

It looks like the two prongs of the metal flat part just above the yellow button are not seated. Push the prongs into the black plastic base reseat them.
Then it's a matter of adjustment. The switch should press in with light touch and you should hear the "click" if you listen closely. You can go past this point and but you get resistance which will trap the ball. Then it's a matter of taking two needle nose pliers and adjusting just the "U" shaped part to touch the ball enough to activate.

#6697 1 year ago
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:

Here is the green and pink slime flasher cover. This is the non tapered design. Just apply with double sided tape.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are they too tall or did you not want them to be flush with the top of the flasher dome? Or maybe cover the top with slime and light up from the inside when the flasher goes off even...

#6698 1 year ago
Quoted from UrethraFranklin:

Here is the green and pink slime flasher cover. This is the non tapered design. Just apply with double sided tape.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

they would look good if translucent green or pink. just my 2 cents.

#6699 1 year ago
Quoted from freddy:

they would look good if translucent green or pink. just my 2 cents.

I can't un-see a wedding cake.

#6700 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I can't un-see a wedding cake.

Melting wedding cake.
Now that’s stuck in my head too!

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