I have a question for you guys that have installed the ColorDMD LED in GB. The ColorDMD website says you need standoffs for newer LED panels. I have seen the pictures of the gap when using the standoffs. The install instructions for Spike systems does not make any mention of the standoffs. I have a ColorDMD that I bought at TPF this year and I am moving it to GB Premium. I ordered the standoffs and the custom foam bezel in preparation for the install. I can install my CDMD without the standoffs and it fits perfectly. Did they change the LED frame so you need those and since mine is older, I don't need them? Or are they used because of heat and I need to install them? The website makes no mention of why you need them so I am a little confused. I don't think that the heat would be any different from the original DMD so I am planning on installing it without the posts unless someone can shed some light on this.

Thanks

LED doesn't need standoffs or a gasket because it's not oversize. LCD does because it's an oversize display and the speaker panel lip is raised at the top..

Gotcha. I guess I was looking at too many things and I saw the standoff kit and thought I needed it.

Thanks

I just noticed today that the color dmd is now available for GB. I think this would be a nice upgrade and am contemplating getting one. Does anyone know if it has both an led and lcd option or is it just one? If both, which would be best for GB?

I have a premium. If I buy the color dmd, do I need any additional brackets or anything? Thank you.

Both versions are available. If you get the LCD (recommended, it's the most flexible), you need to get the clear screen (to replace the red one) and the standoffs. ColorDMD sells them as a kit. A gasket that seals off the screen area from the 1" gap that the standoffs make is optional. I'm out of them, but I *think* Randy at ColorDMD may have a few left if you ask via email. They're not on his website yet.

The LED is too intense IMO, and less flexible if you want to move it to another machine or try other modes, but if you go LED, you don't need a standoff kit or gasket.

The gasket is well made, glad I got one.

Anyone near Western NC know how to fix a slimmer that MAYBE registers 1 out of 10 hits? This is driving me NUTS! I'd gladly pay you to fix it or put you up in one of our nice cabins on our campground.

IMO LCD DMD set to high-res mode for the older Bally/Williams titles and LED DMD's suit the newer Stern's as they sit flush against the speaker panel.
So for GB I'd go LED.

I’m also very happy with my choice for LED. Fits nicer straight begin the clear glass and also no shadow on the backglass from the higher LCD panel.

I did however ordered an anti-glare filter to put in front of it and played a bit with brightness and contrast. Now it looks REALLY good and now “overpowered” at all!

I do like dotsXL on LCD but my OCD hates the LCD backlight and the viewing angles so I went with LED.

But there’s a whole topic about this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led/page/12#post-4643899

My suggestion, start a thread in the tech sub-forum. I don't recall the exact steps when I did mine but it was pretty easy (something along the lines of removing the top piece above the slimer mech, loosening a few nuts and sliding a bracket so there is less distance to close for the switch to activate). But those that have done it before can chime in with more detail (I can also look at mine in more detail if needed) and you should be set + others can reference the thread if the question comes up again.

Thanks for the feedback. I am leaning toward the lcd as I like the flexibility of different looks. So the gasket you referenced doesn't come with the lcd kit colordmd sells? Once I have all of that stuff, is it a fairly straightforward install process?

Lastly, can the GB LCD dmd be potentially used with other Stern pins or just the few where the original Spike system was used like GB? Thanks again.

Does anyone know if the guy that did tge terror dog mod a few years back is still making them? I messaged him here a few weeks back with no reply so assuming no.

Very easy. I posted all the steps in pictures in the announcement thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-game-80-is-ghostbusters/page/2#post-4645130

Also, I'm making some more gaskets available if you want one, PM me.

so straight up question here.... led or lcd for this game? I'm leaning led myself which ive never done before

Anybody have a stern GB topper for sale???

I only have lcd, but on this one i didnt use the hires setting. I would put an led in just for the better fit.

anyone sell white carrot flippers?

If all your other games are LCD, you may want to stick with it so that the displays will look uniform. If you have one LED display in a row of LCDs, it will stick out like a sore thumb.

spend the money and get the gasket form PinMonk it make a big difference in the way it looks. Happy with mine.

I got white from Marco.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sale-ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protectors#post-4663826

Looking for a few more people before I make another run of these...

Thanks Vireland. I am going to try to decide if I am for sure going with the lcd or if led looks good on this pin as well.

Has anyone posted any live video of both the lcd and led displays? That may help me compare and make a decision.

Another vote for LCD, with Vireland's gasket. all the color dots you see on ColorDMD's website are screen shots from the LCD build.

There is a ColorDMD LCD vs LED thread look there for more info... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led

Quoted from Dmod:
All game ROMs will be available soon for both LED and LCD on the SUPPORT page, but the store won't list configurations with problematic installations. This doesn't mean you can't Macguyver something if you really want to, but it won't be supported.
Examples of problematic installations: LCD will not work for CV (space is too small) or T3 (game mechanisms are in the way). LCD is also not recommended for DE games with plastic speaker panels as the LCD sits too far back in the cabinet unless you permanently modify the speaker panel.
Pros/Cons:
LED: 128x32 discrete RGB LEDs. Small form factor. Brighter and more vivid colors. Fixed smaller size dots - can't take advantage of smoothing or other rendering modes. Susceptible to ghosting artifacts due to undesirable capacitive effects.
LCD: 1920x1080 backlit LCD screen (only a portion of the screen is used). Original proven design sold since early 2012. Pixels are used to draw dots. Six rendering modes (DOTS, DOTXL, TILE, 8BIT, SCAN, and HIRES). Large dots and smoothing modes minimize black space making text easier to read. Smoothing modes are popular for cartoon-like animation.

I need to rebuild one of my pop bumpers, its sticking. Does anyone know the part number for the skirts and spoons? I cant find it anywhere. Thanks!

Pop Bumper Skirt - 545-5607-00

Ring and Rod - 515-5085-00

Thank you! What about the spoon for the bottom of the skirt?

I don't see any part number in the manual for the spoon. Maybe someone else can elaborate.

If it is mechanically sticking, you likely need a plunger and sleeve and coil stop, rather than skirt/spoon.

It looks like the entire assembly with the spoon, switch and bracket is part #500-9934-01

Stern Pop Bumper (resized).JPG

Thank you. Its the skirt and spoon causing it to stick. The skirt bottom is k8nd of mushroomed and it sticks on the spoon causing it to stay energized until it slips back into the spoon

I have never looked at the stern spoon or skirt closely but would imagine they are the same or quite similar to a bally/Williams style. If so just type spoon as a search on a parts suppliers site and you'd should find one. Same with skirt or wafer

A pop can stick if the spoon in particular develops a divot or even a hole through it.

Thanks. The spoon doesnt look too bad, but if im pulling the pop apart i plan on making it all new just in case

Copying my post from the GB colordmd thread here (I'm liking the LED in GB and figure this may help some decide):

Was taking some video while a friend played last night. This is with the LED screen. Storage Facility starts at 0:38--the flashing windows look awesome in person with the LED screen as they're genuinely much brighter than the rest of the screen (running contrast 4 and brightness 9 on mine). Lots of glass reflection with the LED screen, so I put a temporary piece of cardboard to shield most of it.

Here is my review of the LED version including extended gameplay from two angles. Really like the look, fit, and finish of the LED display.

Thanks for sharing the two videos above. I'm going to see if Santa will show some love this Xmas.

Wow that looks nice, LED appears to be the way to go.

Joining the club shortly (just waiting on it to ship). Is there an index or key post of must-have mods that I should seek out first? I know ColorDMD is on the list now....

ColorDMD, shapeways printed target brackets for the 2x and 3x targets to prevent massive airballs on this machine, plastics over the inlanes to prevent ball hops, and cliffy protector for the shooter lane are the must-haves. That said, the 3D printed headquarters is very nice.

Could you note the camera used for filming this? It looks good. I can't get anything with lights to show up even remotely properly on the phone, and I always wish I had better video for when I show my mods (for example, there's a sneak peek of a future mod release in my video, and it's just washed out completely [turning the brightness down to see any distinction darkens everything beyond reality and still leaves brighter parts blown out]).

In addition, I'm going to try the Mezelmod target splints. Usually I just use a washer under the pf to compensate for learning, but it didn't work with the shapeways bracket. It caused the switch to stay compressed. That left orbit is so tight I don't need target lean to make it worse.

sounds like you used the wedge and not the steel bracket and maybe some addition foam???? The wedges were my first attempt, but the targets need to come up so the brackets improve on this. One of the targets is under a circuit board so a washer is getting close.

I am pretty sure the splints stop the previous stern targets from leaning to a side unless your game has the older targets

Hoping someone can help me out. I really want to fix my PKE/right ramp shot, and saw on a thread that you can remove the 2" hex spacer and replace with a 1 5/8" and it will stop rolling back out. I found the part at marco----> https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5008-13 but man I hate to pay the shipping on 1 little item (The shipping is almost 4 times the cost of the part) Anyone by chance have this hex spacer I could buy from you?

I did note it in the video at the beginning of the gameplay. GoPro Hero 4 and iPhone X

I don't remember if it is threaded all the way through. If it is just take a hack saw and cut some off.

Thank you! I skipped to the action, so I missed that text. Both look better than what I'm able to get on an S7. GoPro seems to look more accurate in those clips.

Both ends of the hex spacer are internally threaded.
Cutting one short will leave it unusable.

Link to the latest bracket you designed? I want to give it a try. thnx!

If you have it out, maybe take it to ACE and see if they have a threaded coupler of the correct length and thread.

Or add some other things to the order , maybe a pin friend needs some parts . The spacer makes a big difference. I have hit my PKE shot 5 times consecutively. It's funny and we dont care, if my buddy and I are having the best game in our lives, if we hit the pke ramp we start counting "One , Two .." and continue until we miss .
We usually get 2 or 3 .