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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

4 years ago

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  • 4,469 posts
  • 528 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3228 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

One thing that annoys me; callouts are way louder than the music/sound effects. I get why this is needed in a noisy environment, but not in a HUO one.
I see in the GB adjustments, there is Music Attenuation and Voice Attenuation. My assumption is that I can play around with this to help level things out a bit? Just not sure if I need to bump or reduce to help. Figured I would ask before trial and error time.

It's the opposite. For the attenuations, larger number makes it quieter and vice-versa. I have no idea why they just don't call it "level" or "volume" and have it work in a NORMAL way that everyone knows - bigger number is louder, smaller is softer, but they didn't do that.

1 week later
#3246 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

why do you think it's designed to do that? I don't know of many games where the scoop is suppose to launch the ball to the opposite side flipper.

Because if the left goes to the left, that means both scoops eject to the left which seems wrong (and probably is). Right scoop ejects to left flipper and left scoop ejects to right flipper in Ghostbusters. It's also the way the one I maintain came set up from the factory.

#3252 3 years ago
Quoted from cantbfrank:

Ok here are my current issues. Tried to go through this forum to see if they were addressed, but the forum is so large, I can't seem to find anything, even with the index.
1. Airballs on the left ramp - I installed the airball protector, worked for a while, but the protector now seems to sag in the middle preventing a lot of shots from going up the ramp. Suggestions?
2. When plunging, the ball rolls over the right orbit switch. If you have selected who "bought the dog" mode, the mode activates. If you selected another mode, modes shots are deactivated when the ball rolls over the right orbit switch. It seems the software does not realize this was a plunge shot.
3. Plunge shot going around Stay Puff, does not make it through the Left orbit gate. I see a lot of owners have this issue, but I have not seem any real correction.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.

1. I made my own, but I had to decrease the plastic area over the ramp entrance by cutting more out of the midsection "U". The airballs happen on the sides with the target, so the plastic in the middle is just a connector. I haven't got it quite right, but it works with 95% or more of the shots. Only the occasional really fast one will go slightly airborne and hit the plastic on the way up, slowing it or rejecting it. I've attached a pic of one of the early ones I made.
2. That's not your problem. I had this issue, too, at the very beginning. I don't remember 100%, but I *think* it was the shooter lane switch not registering right so it didn't know you had plunged the ball. Check in switch test mode to see if it's registering the resting ball as it's kicked out of the trough.

version1 (resized).jpg

#3255 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Exactly what king of plastic is that? thanks.

PET-G. Much better than acrylic, which can break very easily.

2 weeks later
#3374 3 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

So sad. My subway coil stopped working. What do I do now ? It looks like it burnt. And my left flipper started sticking a little bit as well. Nooooooooo. Any body help ? Only 4 months old. 3800plays

The one we got (GB Prem) also had this same coil die within the first week. Fortunately I had a replacement on hand, and Stern sent one out to replace the dead one.

#3376 3 years ago
Quoted from cbdarden:

I'm having issues with the left scoop registering every time. It's like the switch isn't quite long enough to always register it if the ball settles in a corner or similar.
Any suggestions?

You just have to tweak the switch until it registers all the time. There's no shortcut. (That is, unless part of your switch arm broke off making it physically too short, but I doubt this)

3 weeks later
#3399 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

More GB bugs. This time found in the final wizard mode. We used to have a list compiled to share with Dwight but I think we all gave up hope a long time ago, far far away...
» YouTube video

The bug list for 1.13 is still here:

#3403 3 years ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

"The bug list for 1.13 is still here:"
OK as long as the We Believe You final wizard mode is on the list, because gamers are very frustrated to finally get there and game freezes up. Not cool

Pretty sure you experienced this one from the bug list:
- Mass Hysteria stacked with WRTBY. Phase 2 of WRTBY is to lock a ball in the right scoop and left hole to start Loopin' Supers. He locked the ball in the right scoop and drained everything else when Mass Hysteria flippers flipped. At this point , the game was unable locate the locked ball. It never ball searches, even if it goes to "Missing Pinballs". Even if you tilt, it won't let the locked ball go and thus will never serve another ball. Basically you are permanently stuck in wizard mode due to the software's inability to release the lock and presumably recognize that multi-ball had ended. A hard reset was required to kick the ball out. [PRO]

Maybe without the stack, though?

#3409 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

about 6-8 weeks ago on facebook someone asked would there be any more code updates for GB, they did not say no and implied that in the future we would get a update - sorry can't remember the wording

I would hope so. There's still a lot of bugs in it.

3 weeks later
#3423 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Well isn't that special

Twinkie mod made a ball trap?

#3432 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

No bugs...Incomplete code, uneven scoring, and the novelty of the scoleri targets is generally not enjoyed in tournament play.
Owners hope Dwight will finish off the code and scoring imbalances, but no mechanical bugs that havent been addressed.

I dunno. The Scoleri targets not going down from direct hits is what I would call a mechanical bug. Like many Stern target mechs, soft hits work fine, hard hits and they might as well be walls.

Also had a machine reset yesterday, again connected to the librarian scoop on the left. I don't think that bug has been fully addressed yet.

#3434 3 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

I've had my premium almost a year now and haven't had the reset issues. I'm not sure it's actually a software bug as much as it may be line voltage being a little lower some places and too much stuff going on.

Unlikely. All the ones I've seen are tied to that librarian scoop. I even made instructions for making it fail on the version before, and rather than fix the root bug, Stern took out one of the steps so it couldn't be reliably reproduced in 1.13. Now it's random (well, at least I can't find another set of reliably reproducible steps) again, but the core bug is clearly still there.

#3437 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i've seen sopranos drop and transformers drop do the exact same thing. It's not just GB that brick on the drops. hell, my pinball magic used to brick on direct hits too. It's a drop target thing, not a GB thing. If it pisses you off when it happens. Either don't buy games with drops, or learn how to graze them from the edges or backhand.

I know how to get around the design problem, but older machines drops work right, so if Stern has this problem, they should look hard at re-engineering their mechanism so they work as a drop target should. This slow-motion normalization of abnormal function and behavior (drop targets that don't drop from direct hits, insert ghosting is "normal", GoT left orbit is "as designed") is not good for pinball. It should not be accepted with a shrug.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go yell at some kids to get off my lawn...

#3439 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I think you just have to give it some time. I've had plenty of old games that brick all the time as well. Let them break in a bit and I think it will get better over time. As the plastic wears, the metal lip wears, it won't regrab so easy anymore and should drop more and more consistent.

Dunno. These are routed machines with thousands of plays. Drop targets should have broken in by now if they're going to.

#3442 3 years ago

Okay. That doesn't change the fact that the consistency of this is new and older machines had it happen much less often. It's an engineering problem that can be solved if Stern is so inclined.

#3446 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

For the drop targets, wasn't it recommended you make the springs even tighter? aka pull down and connect it lower on the spring to make the drop more sensitive?

It's on my to-do list for the GB on location, but if that's the solution and it's so simple, why hasn't Stern adopted it for all their drop target mechs? It boggles the mind.

#3453 3 years ago

Haven't seen this issue mentioned, so putting it out there for posterity. If the Ecto Goggles "hit" becomes intermittent or doesn't work, it's likely the wires going to the left opto in the lane that runs under the goggles.

Stern re-designed this so each wire has a "channel" on the bottom side of the board to hold it in place, but unfortunately, this requires 4 bends in a kind of question mark shape, which seems to lend itself to wire breaks. Stern confirmed they have seen issues with this.

I removed the Opto assembly from the underside (dead simple - only two screws), then removed the left opto board and unsoldered all three wires. Cut them back about 1/2" to get rid of whatever wire was intermittent and keep them all even, then re-soldered them directly to the back of the opto board, eliminating all the bends. Works great again.

1 week later
#3462 3 years ago
Quoted from orb:

on issue threads is there a way to look up issues talked about without reading whole thread?

Go to page 1 and look at the index of "key posts" which will take you right to subjects of interest.

2 weeks later
#3487 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I ran into a small issue / fix this week that might help GB owners who are 1st time owners.
My GB-Premium is a whole year old this month.
Recently I've noticed the left scoop was waiting a while (and taking longer) to kick out the ball.
This morning the ball just sat in there as if nothing happened and then the machine went into ball-search.
I shut off the machine and found the switch in the left scoop was squashed down so it barely was being pressed by the ball.
If this happens to you....
With the glass off and the power off, put your finger in the scoop and feel for the switch.
Gently bend the tip of the switch actuator back upward toward the playfield surface.
I tested with power off listening for the click to ensure the click happened before the switch bottomed out.
Next - Test it in switch test mode with a ball.
Caution: The solenoid will fire if you use your finger to press the switch wacking your finger so turning off the machine is advised.
Now The response time is back to what it should be.
The moment the ball lands in the scoop the flasher goes off and kicks the ball back up.

It's also pretty common for one of the two screws holding the switch on the left or right scoop to unwind and fall out, which leaves the switch in place, but the actuator arm drops too low to register when the ball comes in. You just have to find the tiny black screw in the black cabinet...which can take a fix it.

1 month later
#3532 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I have no idea how to fix that.

Sell it to me. That will be the end of that.

1 week later
#3557 3 years ago
Quoted from mbt:

Does anyone know why the clear inserts in front of the slings sometimes stay on? This is on a premium, and I seem to notice it after playing a few modes /multi ball but I haven't figured out the pattern.

When they're charged up (to be more active and do the funny-weird things with the ball), they stay on.

1 week later
#3564 3 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I'm still trying to diagnose my issues on my Ghostbusters Premium with slimer swinging fully clockwise on startup and then stopping there. Can someone confirm their wiring configuration connecting to the optical board connected to the slimer motor assembly? I've attached mine for reference and it is: Red; Pink/Yellow; Pink/Orange; Pink/Green; Black/Brown. I confirmed that the wires run to Node board 8 and are going to the correct pin, but I was unsure of the configuration in the connector to the optical board. I couldn't seem to find that in the manual.

Running the latest software? At least one of the earlier revisions did this.

3 weeks later
#3626 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

So I adjusted the ramp to have all the rail bars on the inside of the plastic. Works much better, but I still get shots that don't make it all the way back up.
On my old playfield, the ball would make it back up 100% of the time. On the new playfield, it's 80% of the time. I tried adjusting the plastic underneath, but there's no play in it.
The only other thing I could think it is, is maybe the wire form isn't tight enough and the ball is rattling side to side, causing the ball to lose velocity.

iphone recording the ball dropping in in slo-mo mode may help you see what's going on.

#3628 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

How do I do that?

Just go to the camera and swipe over to "slo-mo" then hit record. You'll need to put the phone in an orientation where it has a clear shot of the chute and then you can just manually send balls over the ramp and let them drop in. You might want to put a flashlight UNDER the playfield so you can see all the way down when the balls go in.

See if that helps you diagnose it.

4 weeks later
#3639 2 years ago
Quoted from flipordie:

Are we suppose to get 2 capacitors? I only received one? the document says node 8 and 9 though?

Yes you need two. Their service bulletin kits were revised to have two per kit, but the early ones only had one.

1 week later
#3642 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

My left scoop has been kicking the ball out without registering about 10-15 percent of the time,really sucks when extra ball,or back off man or anything is lit. it just started happening a week ago. My friend says its a code issue. Anybody else have this problem? any fixes?

It's not a code issue, it's the switch. Adjust it. It's a known issue. KISS has it on the left scoop too, after a while.

#3647 2 years ago
Quoted from Deafcon:

Did you find a fix? My GB just started doing this, i checked the alignment of everything and made some adjustments but the problem persists.

I don't remember where I saw it, but it seems like people were adjusting something under the playfield that was causing the ball to slow. Some minor tweak to stop the ball from losing momentum.

#3651 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?

If it doesn't come UP, the coil may be broken. Have you tried it in coil test mode?

#3658 2 years ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

On coil test, it pops up nice and strong but immediately goes back down. I am going to remove the PBL springs on that Scoleri Brother and replace them with the originals (which, fortunately, I saved) and report back later tonight.

There should be a small plastic ledge that the flipper hangs on to stay up. That may have broken on that target. Stern changed them around Game of Thrones to be paper thin, so they break much easier than older ones that would work for decades on location with thousands of plays. Not sure if they made them thicker again for GB.

#3661 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

One of my ledges broke early on. Stern sent me a new one, but it looks like they’ve continued to cheap out on that part.

I know that comparing the broken GoT one to the ones that came before, it was almost paper thin at the bottom, and not much thicker at the top - bendable. SUBSTANTIALLY less durable than what had been the standard for at least a decade or two.

1 week later
#3665 2 years ago
Quoted from Stones:

Ok......the switch on the left ramp is still an issue registering shots. I have bent the switch so it does register shots.....but not consistently.
It either:
A) works 75% of the time....then, over time registers less and less
B) bend too much and stops the ball from going down the subway.
Anyone just replace the switch?
This is for the premiun

Never had a problem with that switch on the Premium I maintain on location. Maybe the one you have is just a weirdly manufactured switch. If you've put all that time into it, I'd just replace the switch.

#3672 2 years ago
Quoted from Stones:

It seems like quite a few people have had to replace the switch. I'm a rookie at some of doesn't like I need to solder? looks like the switch is just held by 2 screws?
Also, double this the switch I need from Marco? (I know I need to order the new part number)

Definitely need to solder. If you don't have a soldering station, let me recommend: link »

Page 45 of the manual says that switch is 180-5209-00.

1 week later
#3692 2 years ago
Quoted from beepbeep:

I checked the mechanical part of it and that all looks good. If I continue to push the button too try and get it to break free it will stay in same upright position, it releases itself after a period of 15-20 seconds and on top of it all the flipper will spasm out of know where as if it remembers how many time you push the button previously. It sounds crazy...just trying to find a easy fix without spending $300 on a computer board.

Get it to stick with the PF up and see if it's hanging up on the EOS switch. Physically catching on a bent EOS is pretty common and easy to fix.

#3697 2 years ago
Quoted from philsublime:

Also, sometimes when I short plunge, it directly starts who brought the dog. In this situations it also sounds like it hit something...

This is a common GB problem that means the switch in your shooter lane is not registering or only registering intermittently. DO NOT TEST WITH YOUR FINGER. Go into switch test mode and manually eject a ball into the shooter lane and see if it triggers the switch.

#3699 2 years ago
Quoted from philsublime:

This is the switch right at the plunger, I guess. I'll try it. So this one must be triggered in order for the machine to know where the ball comes from when it triggers the right outlane switch? Is that it? Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob...
I guess when it comes to the ball firing into the SPM and backboard, I need to set up a camera and film it in slow motion.

Yes. It's the one just above the tip of the shooter rod. If that isn't triggered when the ball is kicked out, then the machine doesn't know the ball came from the shooter lane and assumes you made the shot that starts "who brought the dog?" instead.

#3721 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

anyone have any suggestions about premium airball deflectors. I've had 5 of them crack so far from front end impacts.
It's a location game, so it probably get a bit more regular play then home use. seems like every time I try again they break almost instantly, or within a week.
If the deflector isn't installed, then the ball flys around the playfield and breaks other stuff. I tried the modfather ones & the ones from little shop (which were made by one of the pinsiders here I think). The modfather ones hold up better, since they are thicker.
Tried installing it normally a couple times
Tried low profile 5/16 nuts on with a little bit of thread locker.
Tried flipping the nylon on the other side to keep the deflector somewhat loose.
Tried added F/F 6/32 threaded 1/4" long post things to raise it a bit, but the slimmer got in the way.
Currently I put small fender washers on the deflector to help distribute how the nut holds the plastic down. to help distribute the force from front end impacts.
next I was thinking about stacking 2 deflectors somehow.
if all this still doesn't work, I was thinking making a metal deflector.
crazy how bad the airballs are on this game.

I just made one out of PET-G. Took a few tries to get the thickness right so the ball wasn't inhibited going up the ramp, but this has been in use on location for thousands of plays and not cracked or broken yet. I ended up trimming the left inside manually with scissors but the one below is pretty close to the final shape.

version1 (resized).jpg
Small-Protector-Version 3 (resized).png

#3739 2 years ago
Quoted from Az-ill:

Backbox lights (LEDs on the board) won't light up. I've checked every plug in the back box and still no luck. Any ideas would be great. GB Pro

What is the backbox lighting level (Adjustment 65 and 66) set to in the standard adjustments menu?

#3741 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

To anyone that has repaired the shooter lane... There are areas of my shooter lane that the clear has chipped away and some areas where the clear isn't chipped, but you can tell it has delaminated ( appears milky) from the wood. Whats the procedure to fix those areas? Should I cut out the delaminated area or just leave it as is and repair the bare spots? I have Cliffy's on order but they are about 3 months out, so my intention is to repair what I can and put some mylar down in the meantime.

I'd just put Mylar down and call it good until the Cliffies show up.

#3744 2 years ago
Quoted from Az-ill:

Checked them and played around with it. It was on 100% and still is

The other person I remembered that had this problem with no backbox lights had to contact Stern to get the whole board replaced. The post is here:

#3746 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

That was my intent, but I want to repaired the existing damage first. I have some chipped areas that the cliffy will not cover. I'd like to get it out of the way so when the cliffys arrive I can just put them on. Not wait like 7 days for the clear to cure.

How bad is your damage? Pic?

#3762 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Thanks!!! Pinball Life appears to have them instock. Do you have to take anything else apart or is it a simple fix? Thanks so much!!!!

If you make your own, they'll last a lot longer. Just a little piece of plastic and you drill two holes in it to mount it.

#3770 2 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Just picked up a pro and the auto launch can’t shoot the ball all the way to the top. Any ideas?

Shoot a launch with your iphone in slo-mo mode to see if it's a power issue (ball shoots straight) or an alignment issue (ball zigs between the sides of the ball launch chute). You can really only see it with slow motion. If it's a power issue, see if the coil power is set to Normal or Low in the settings. If it's an alignment issue, adjust the auto-launch forks.

#3781 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all,
Possibly a common prob...but an issue I am seeing with my recently acquired GB Prem...has to do with the initial plunge of the ball, and the Orbit lock that allows it to go down the lane and get the target shot (i.e. to start 'ok who brought the dog'?)
I'm noticing a about 30% of the time the ball appears to hit the orbit switch despite a full plunge...and ends up going down the P/K/E area...keeping me from starting a scene quickly (game counts as a miss the ball going down the P/K/E - bumper area)
Here's a video of what's happening.
Check out the :19-21 second mark
Was watching this is slow motion, and it does look like the ball bouncing off the corner below the beginning of the latch/Orbit latch...with the clearance on this latch, I wonder if this is normal?
Any information appreciated. Thanks for taking a look!!

Looks like maybe the gate isn't raising *quite* high enough and is stopping the ball dead. Slo-mo filming mode and better lighting would be more helpful for diagnosis.

#3783 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey - Thanks for taking a look. Hmm, same video but made some video tweaks and shortened/slowed down

I can try another video with better lighting tomorrow.
If the gate isn't raising quite high enough, any suggestions?

Better lighting and a little more slow-mo should help see if the ball is catching the WHOLE gate bottom, or just one edge. Just one edge is easier than the whole thing, but the solution will be a combination of bending and/or shimming the gate bracket to bring it up just 2mm or so.

#3790 2 years ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

My GB Prem isn't registering left ramp hits on a clean-fast shot from the right flipper. If I backhand it from the left, or if a right shot rattles a little but still makes it up the ramp it registers. If the ball rolls quickly and cleanly up the ramp from the right flipper, nothing...if I get into a looping rhythm from the right...none of them register.
Has anyone had this? I've been advised to bend the switch shown. Should I bend the "horseshoe" end more open, bend the entire arm out, or bend the arm closer...making the arm travel less to activate the switch. Or is it simply trial and error until it registers?!?

SUPER COMMON problem on that ramp. Bend the leaf out more. You should be able to feel the click when the switch registers. You want that to happen at about the 3/4 point of the stroke.

#3791 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey Vireland, per's a better perspective...the last shot I zoom in and show extra slo motion
» YouTube video
Appreciate the additional opinion. Also I reached out to Stern for their input but haven't heard back yet...left a vm too

Looks a lot like the GoT Premium rattle on the left orbits. Stern engineering is really not that great these days.

You're probably going to have to remove stay-puft and light up the area very well and slo-mo record various speed ball plunges to see how the ball is landing from the shooter lane onto the left corner (point 1) and if it's rattling before it leaves the corner at point 2. Something on the right needs to be adjusted so it smoothly hugs the stainless guide instead of rattling as it's clearly doing by the time it hits the left side in your video.

ghostbusters-pf-rattle (resized).jpg

#3795 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

so pretty much problem solved..The thing I am noticing is the auto plunger, still seems to struggle and the ball can get stuck in the orbit occasionally. Again I can get around this by plunging before the auto plunger shoots, but if I was able to adjust the auto plunger velocity, that would probably fix my problem there...don't suppose this is something Stern would enable/enhance in the software

Not going to happen in software, but you can put a slightly more powerful coil in there to make it kick stronger.

#3797 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Ok wishful thinking...and actually, I was hoping to bring it down a notch...since over plunging seems to be when I have the prob. hmm

Weaker coil, then. That's IF you already changed the coil strength for all coils from Normal to Soft in the system menu. If you haven't, that'd be a good place to shave 5-10% off the power.

#3799 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Oh no kiddin? Hmm, I did see that in the menu, I wasn't really aware of coil settings, how they factor in. But I'm definitely a noob pinball owner..will give it a shot

I always set it to soft. Doesn't make that much of a difference to a player and keeps the machine from getting beat up.

#3801 2 years ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

Registering on all shots! Thanks....

Much more fun when that happens!

1 week later
#3815 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

yes that would be me with the wedges and then the re-designed target brackets, feedback to me has been positive but none posted on pinside yet and very very rarely get ball hop but that is me and hopefully has helped others. I ask other people that purchased to share their feedback as well - positive, negative, constructive...

It would help if you had installation "before" and "after" pictures on the product page to demonstrate what it looks like installed.

#3819 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

thanks for the push vireland , the shapeways listing has been updated and I thought I showed it on one of the threads but didn't, my apologies

I think those pictures will help your sales a LOT.

So in your experience, does this reduce airballs off the targets or does it eliminate them? If it eliminates them and I can remove the shield/protector over the top, I'd be all over this.

#3821 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

That is the real question- minimize or eliminate?

Well we're going to find out, because I just bought two to try ($17.50 each, shipped) on the GB Premium we have on the route. I'll add these, remove the shield and report back.

#3824 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

I need help. super frustrating problem with my premium. The left scoop only rewards 75 percent of my shots or less, the other 25 percent just kick out with no reward (including increase super jackpot. ...I will upload a video,it happens at the worst times, add-a-ball.extra ball etc etc..If I cant fix it,I might have to sell it its gotta be the switch,ive bent it a tiny bit, seemed to work for a few games,but then back to not registering... anybody else experience this? my last resort is to get a new switch and install it I at a loss....please help. thank you

It's DEFINITELY the switch. It's making a momentary connection, but not staying closed while the ball's there. Happens on KISS and GB like this. Adjust it much more, and if you can't get it to register reliably, just replace it.

#3827 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

you can't go any further as you are limited but the stern target design with the slot as the slot is already at it's maximum near the bracket bend,
and it almost eliminates the airballs but it is a big statement to say this or any other guard stops airballs totally, but for me a few others that have reported back say it is a big difference.

Still waiting for ours, but looking forward to trying it!

#3835 2 years ago
Quoted from hedghog:

They activate when they not supposed to, like even on ball 1 on the plunge before I have gotten the ball to the flippers they go up.... It seems like it is somehow registering when some other coil is activated, like the pop bumpers or even the flippercoils... I have reseated all connectors on the nodeboards under the PF.... And also the game is brand new...

Put the game in switch test mode and hit the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand and see if switches are registering from vibration that shouldn't be.

#3837 2 years ago
Quoted from hedghog:

Nope, sw46 is not registering when pf is hit / shaken....

Then maybe a flaky component is intermittently making the scoleri targets activate. Do they still come up if they're disabled in the software?

#3840 2 years ago
Quoted from hedghog:

Have not tried to disable, will try this and see.. But it is not only scolari droptargets, its the other modes coming on like terror dog hurry up and book stacking... All of what i understand is from hitting right captive ball / sw46...

Is that switch stuck "on" all the time? That would make it so it doesn't register from vibration (it's already on), but would probably cause game issues. If you pull the target AWAY from the back leaf in switch test mode, does it register (from coming un-stuck)?

#3846 2 years ago
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:

Warning for others: my Scarlotti Bros targets would not respond to direct hits (common issue), so I bought the "fix kit" on, with two tighter springs.
They were so tight that the first time I triggered it, it broke the piece of flimsy plastic that lets the target stay up - across the top of the mounting (the "lip" of the drop target sits on it when it's all the way up).
I should have just kept fussing with shortening the existing spring...
As an aside - anyone know how to replace that bit of black plastic, other than contacting Stern?

You can just make one from a piece of plastic you may have around that's angled. I just cut one I had around drilled a couple holes in it and it worked fine. The one I made is slightly thicker plastic, too, so it's held up better.

#3849 2 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Anyone know where to get the part that lowers the height of the PKE shot so it can actually make it up that ramp? And I had a little spring pop out of my flipper button and I can't find that either. Anyone know that part number?

It's just a hex spacer nut. Someone posted the exact height one with the part number, but it's basically about 1/8" shorter than the one in there now. I just grabbed one out of my pinball orphaned parts drawer that worked fine. Once that change is made, that shot is WAY better, though. Substantially less rejects.

#3854 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

The new issue is it seems the Stern 'cliffy' on the left scoop is starting to lift off the play field ever so slightly that when the ball comes down the left lane it will sometimes catch the corner of the cliffy and change the trajectory of the ball. Anyway to fix that?

Are you sure that's happening at the scoop edge? Film it with an iphone with slo-mo turned on. I bet it's happening at the spinner on the left orbit. Happens on the GB Prem here sometimes, too, but it's always around the spinner area that the redirect happens.

#3856 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Actually I think I have the issue at both places. I thought it was catching the back of the drop target as well, but since I leveled the machine, it's not hitting the target.
I will try to capture it in slo-mo. I can almost stick a playing card under the corner of the cliffy in question. I can take the ball and put it past the spinner and let it roll and it catches the corner of the scoop.
Did you do anything to fix the ball getting caught on the spinner?

No, it's just annoying when it happens. Not sure what the fix is, but it has to be age-related because it didn't do it the whole first year we had it.

#3860 2 years ago
Quoted from DaWezl:

Ok, so having an issue with the right scoop.
First symptom was that I had some people over, and about 2-3 times in short succession the software would crash when a ball would go into the scoop. I’ve had maybe 2 other crashes total in the past 18 months, and neither could be replicated the way this one was.
I reset the software, and didn’t see issues the next 1-2 times I played it.
Now the switch has stopped registering. I checked it in switch test and it’s not reading there either. (The coil still works fine, and the ball will kick out once it goes into test mode.)
I haven’t had a chance to dig any further into it, but are there any likely causes that I should check out first? I’m wondering myself if the problem may be the node board rather than the switch itself, but I don’t know if the code glitches were just a random coincidence or not.

Bend the arm on the switch out more and if it still isn't registering, replace the switch. This is pretty common on GB scoop (and the KISS scoop). Ball just pounded switch so it doesn't register anymore.

#3864 2 years ago
Quoted from rooky79:

So I haven’t been keeping up with GB or been playing it much but my wife and I pulled the covers off and had a few games.
It reminded me to check out if there’s any news on the wizard mode actually getting finished or is this game finished as is now and left for dead because of the Trudeau issue?

An update is coming, but it will be later this year or after. They didn't specify the order of the updates.

Check out the "Blog" section here for the "Stern of the Union" (that title makes no sense, I know) updates:

#3867 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Having issues with my left scoleri bro,he pops up and immediately goes down. I’ve tried tightening and loosening the spring to no avail. Has this happened before,thanks in advance as it’s most likely been talked about somewhere in this thread. Getting frustrated w my gb I’m genetal. Left scoop only registers 75 percent if lucky. I’ve adjusted the switch which works for a game or 2, and now sometimes the left scoop just fires it sdtm (if it registers), even too it’s set on high (64). Sometime w a hard hit it pushes the switch out of the way making game do a ball search b4 kicking it out. Arggghhhh

Sounds like you broke the little black plastic "ledge" the target grabs onto when reset into the up position. Look at it from underneath. You may have to remove the assembly to see it. I made my own out of a thicker strip of plastic and it didn't break again.

#3869 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

unfortunatly that is not the problem,thank you though, I checked right away,but can see the ledge is fine. I can manually push it up with game off and stays up fine. With game on it just will NOT stay up?

Do you have the stock springs on it?

#3872 2 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

So anyone know if the Slimer LED/Contact Switch PCB (see link below) that pinball life sells would fix issues with Slimer not registering hits??

Did you already go through this thread:

#3874 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballnut3:

I have a premium ghostbusters. The slimmer mech is lost in its travel path. Its stuck over by the fire house. Does anyone know what causes this or where to look?

Have you upgraded the software? This is a known problem with older versions of the software.

#3878 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone have issues with crazy air balls off the scoleri targets? While down
Ball launches up over the airball protector for the left ramp.
I’m not sure if the cliffy is causing it or if the target is sticking up ever so slightly during gameplay.
Doesn’t happen all the time but it is pissing me off!

We have cliffies on the ones here and no airballs off the scoleri targets (at least none high enough to go over a flipper). Do you have the coils set to normal or soft? Ours are set to soft.

#3880 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Not an airball off the target itself but balls rolling over them when they are down are causing the ball to go flying up over the airball protector on left ramp area. I had one launch half way up ramp and into the buildings/pops area.

Doesn't happen here. Are your coils set to normal or soft?

Also, are the drop targets flush to the PF when down, or are they sunken a little or raised a little?

#3883 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I may take them off and see what happens. I want to say the targets are flush but I need to double check.
Do the coil settings have any impact on how they go down in pf? I currently have them set normal, by changing to soft what impact should I expect to them game in general? Maybe I'll start with this.

No, it makes all the coils about 5-10% less powerful. Takes the edge off flippers being too powerful and you really shouldn't notice a loss of power, just smoother gameplay.

#3885 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Targets seem flush... I will try the soft coil settings. Hard to believe the cliffys being so thin could launch a ball like that.

Must be situational. We have them installed since day one and never had what you're describing.

#3887 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

It seems my cpu battery needs replacing as the time setting will not hold after power off. I tried removing the old one but without success. Is there a trick to removing these like a clip or something. I don't want to use pliers especially if the game is on. Any help from someone who has replaced theirs would be greatly appreciated

If the battery top is 12 o'clock (looking at it from the back side of the battery), you press against the 9 o-clock position and angle the battery out of the socket, then slide your finger toward 12 o'clock to pop the battery out of the socket at which point you can easily grab it and pull it toward you out of the casing.

bat_step1 (resized).jpg
bat_step2 (resized).jpg

#3891 2 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

I have Cliffy's installed and no air balls as well. I have a Pro though and it seems like the vast majority of the airball issues are coming from Premiums/LEs.

We have them installed on a Prem and no problems.

#3893 2 years ago
Quoted from LowScores:

We'll I think I found my issue with slimer now counting up to his programmed positions. S58 doesn't open or close on a switch test.
Any idea what to test or just order a whole new board?

Get a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and try cleaning them. They might just be dirty.

1 week later
#3901 2 years ago
Quoted from LowScores:

Ack! It made it two games. Now he isn't registering movement of location again.
Another thing I noticed, is sometimes when I'm in the testing mode...I move into the slimer tests and cant get them to start. It doesn't reagister to do the test with the +, -, enter or even the start button.
I reboot the game and then the test works, but his location fails

I'd try reflowing the solder to the optos, then.

#3903 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I'm sure this has been addressed somewhere in this thread but what do I check if my auto plunge is weak?
It's weak about 80% of the time at various levels of weakness. Started happening about a week ago.

Manually check the auto launcher by moving it with your hands and make sure it isn't binding or feels like it's dragging in the coil sleeve.

Check the ohms (resistance) of the auto launch coil to see if the coil is weakening. There's a chart online with "normal" resistance ranges for most kinds of coils.

Slo-mo film an auto launch with your iphone and see if the auto-launcher is hanging up on something OR if the ball is launching unevenly and bouncing off each side of the shooter lane, slowing it down.

#3906 2 years ago
Quoted from andre060:

Hey vireland, did you ever install those angled target brackets? How'd that turn out? Seems like a really nice upgrade over the ugly clear plastic airball protector - curious how these worked out for you...

Oh, yeah. Sorry, I completely forgot to follow up. Yes, it stopped all the huge ball jumpbacks (like ones that would go over the flippers, etc) and the ball is nowhere near as wild hitting the targets. I removed the protector and it's working fine.

The only real negative (which is not related to the targets) is that protector kept the ball down longer as it started up the ramp, so without it, you sometimes get rocket-launched balls that go off the ramp and into the area behind Gozer. That ramp really needs a clear half-funnel on it to keep the ball on the ramp.

They're expensive, but they do work for the most part. A substantial improvement, and as such, I expect Stern will rip it off soon enough.

#3908 2 years ago
Quoted from andre060:

Great feedback, thanks!

I would expect Stern to improve their brackets yes. Would you prefer their didn't and left the air-ball prone ones on?

If they take a good idea to improve their game that a pinhead/fan designs, I would prefer some kind of financial consideration at the very least to the lay person that bested their paid engineers and took the time and effort to improve their games instead of just ripping it off.

#3916 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Everything looks and feels good when I manually check the launcher.
I can physically see the launcher snap slow and weak when it happens
The resistance reading for that coil (23-800) was 3.9.
Does this link suggest I should be getting 4.2?
Is a 3.9 reading mean it's causing my issue and needs to be replace?
I know nothing about this stuff - today I opened my multimeter package I bought over a year ago. lol
Edit: found this link too (3.6):
Maybe someone could check their reading for me?

The coil chart here suggests 4.2ohm is the usual resistance for that coil:

But 3.9 isn't that far off (less than 10%), and also wouldn't explain why it's intermittent. If the coil were bad/weak, you'd expect it to be consistently so. Does this happen more once it's warmed up (later in a session)?

#3918 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all - did a recent 'first pinball machine' repair for a drop target failure that wouldn't 'rise'(Nunzio Scolari)...glad I ordered the part (plastic that supports the lift)pretty proud of myself.
anyway, next on my Todo's is checking the right bucket (I think that's called a bucket?) About 30% of the time the bucket doesn't detect the ball and the system starts a ball check. Eventually it pop's out the ball...Can anyone point me in the right direction for seeing what may be the issue?
Any info appreciated - thx

Your switch probably has come loose or fallen down. It's common.

#3920 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Thanks - so any guidance or existing direction on fixing I can reference? I saw some folks mentioning a spring tension issue but not sure if related to this.

Has the Tech menu item on your diag menu flagged the ball lock as a problem yet?

#3922 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

I went through the menus and couldn't find anything indicating a problem...The Technician Alert says 'No Technician Alerts' - is there something else I need to check?

No Technician alerts is what I was looking for.

So that means the problem isn't "that bad" yet. So just lift the playfield and look into the bottom of the "scoop" area on the right. There's a switch there. Check to make sure the switch body is firmly attached, if not, screw it in hand tight.

If that's fine you just need to bend the arm of the switch out a little more so it makes contact sooner and longer when a ball comes in. Put one finger near where the switch joins the body (or bending it up might pop the switch blade off the plastic nubs on the side) and press that tight while gently bending the other end away from the switch body a little more. You won't need much, so only do a little at a time.

Then test it by going into switch test mode and dropping a ball in to see if the switch registers on the screen. If not, repeat the bending a little more.

3 weeks later
#3955 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Picked up an LE over the weekend. Had a couple of minor, but common issues.
Left scoop shoots down the middle. Added some weather stripping along left side of scoop, shoots to right flipper now!
Right flipper eos giving tech alert. Regapped switch at flipper mech, fixed!
Lots and lots of air balls. Ordered some inlane/outlane and left ramp airball protectors.
One thing I’m not sure about. When the ball goes into the right subway, I can see it rocking back and forth in the subway, then it drops into the hole and ejects. Is this what it’s supposed to do? Seems to slow the game down by rocking like that.

If you use the modified target brackets, you don't need the left ramp airball protector. The inlane/outlane ball jump protectors, however, are absolutely necessary. I played one without them recently and it SUCKED.

#3956 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Here is my question about the skillshot. I use a green spring and when i plunge the ball it goes around the orbit, to the moving post and the mode of the right ladder cause the ball Hits the switch.
Is it normal? I thought it should ignore the switch after plunge, so that you hit a orbit or ramp to start a mode.

Are you saying the post on the left orbit is triggered and comes up to stop the ball when you launch it?

#3958 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Hi vireland,
yes if i plunge the ball, the right orbit switch will be hit and the legt orbit post is triggered...i don't know how i can adjust it correct.
In my vision the right orbit switch must be ignored and the ball have to go round the orbit to the Flipper and then i can shoot the "skillshot"

This condition means your shooter lane switch is either broken or not registering. Very common. Go into the diagnostics->switch test and test the shooter lane switch with a ball and/or adjust/replace your shooter lane switch depending on the outcome.

#3962 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Question - looking back over the threads - I thought you could "tap up" the wire ball guides from underneath to prevent this so no plastics are needed? This was on earlier threads.

That makes it better, but the balls still jump the rail, just not as much. The protector that keeps the ball in the lane is a must for Ghostbusters IMO.

#3965 2 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Yesterday I noticed my right inlane guide is lowering. Is this a common problem?

It happens, especially if the wood gets fatigued and the guide barb doesn't grab as well.

#3970 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can you adjust power on an individual coil?

Some of the newer Sterns are more adjustable, but I don't think GB has an adjustment this specific. All you can do is set the coil power to "soft" overall. Nothing like JJP or AP offers in per-coil power adjustment.

#3974 2 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Each individual coil has level settings that are completely customizable on Ghostbusters. The one I suggest everyone do is adjust the shooter lane kickout coil to the lowest setting. This reduces shooter lane wear greatly.

Yeah, if it's offered, I ALWAYS turn that one down. It's always way too aggressive.

#3976 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

I have adjusted the springs on the drop targets understanding that a stronger spring gets the drop target out of the way quicker and causes less airballs.
Well I have tried both (a) stronger springs (from PinballLife) and (b) reinstalling original springs and shortening them up to 20-25 revolutions.
Neither have worked. When the left target is up and I hit it dead on with the right flipper- always get an airball directly back at me ...then the airball hits the wire guide ramp (the one that crosses the playfield) and drops back onto the playfield.
Any other ideas? Anyone put washers underneath the 2 of the 4 screws holding the Drop target to give it a pitch? Does this work?

Set coil strength to soft?

#3978 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Ok I will try. Is this an individual setting for the drop targets or total game setting?

Softens all the coils by something like 5%. First thing I do before a pin goes on route. Saves wear and tear and the games play fine, better even, sometimes.

1 month later
#3994 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all -
Possibly a dumb question, and not a problem with the GBPremium itself, but my GBs' got a air ball protector installed at the left ramp. Seems like it's 'dipping' down..possibly just due to heat etc. (it's in the garage, I'm in Sacramento area). if I pull it up it bends up , but quickly bends down if I don't hold it.
Any suggestions on how best to fix this piece? Causing the ball to get stuck requiring a glass removal. Not ideal. And, I'd rather keep it (or modified piece) if it does its job combating air balls.
Any info appreciated. Thx

Get the angled target brackets and remove the protector. Problem solved, and it will look better, too.

#3997 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Agree on look, but they don’t stop all airballs.

90%, at least, of the airballs off those two targets on the machine I installed it on. Easy recommendation to make. Better than all other solutions out there currently. There's no need for the plastic "covers" over the targets now. The angled brackets are a much better solution.

#4000 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

See vireland review:
Also helps keep ball down when going up ramp.
Both options have plus & minus.

Heh, I forgot I even wrote that. It's correct though. The only negative is you can launch balls up and off the top of the ramp with a fast hit, but it's not that common. Someday I'll get around to making a half tube to fix that.

#4001 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Don’t forget the plastic protector helps keep ball down on the ramp

It does do that, but the ball leaving the ramp is not super common once the angled brackets are installed and the plastic removed. It only happens with the super-fast ball shots. The benefits of no ugly plastic protector vs the occasional ball launch, I'll take the occasional ball launch. The game looks so much better without the extra plastic over the targets.

#4003 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Funny thing, I ordered the angled target brackets as listed earlier in this thread. I went to install them and my game has angled brackets from the factory. The new DE brackets were the exact same angle as the stock brackets. Additionally, my stock targets have a reinforcing bar along the back of the target that would prevent installation of the DE brackets anyway.

You ordered these brackets:

And they were the same as what's on there from the factory? When was your GB made? Do you have pics of the bar you're talking about?

#4005 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

No, I ordered the Data East brackets that someone suggested. Don't do that as they will not physically fit. They don't allow for the part of the target that fits in the slot (in the picture you linked).
However, the brackets on mine were already at an angle like in that picture. They were NOT 90 degrees. Mine is an LE from Sept 2016.

Your brackets were/are bent or something. It's not the same as these since Stern was DEFINITELY not using these brackets in 2016 (I thought maybe they ripped off the design for a later run if yours was made later). Get the brackets from shapeways and the airball problem is over for the most part, no more ugly protector required. Can't recommend it highly enough.

2 weeks later
#4018 2 years ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

I am currently experiencing an issue with my Ghostbusters when my ball is coming down from the left orbit. It seems that the left scoop is raising a little bit (not flush with the playfield) so when the ball is coming down it hits the left scoop which changes the trajectory of the ball so that it does not end up safely on my left flipper but rather down the drain. I am having to really nudge the machine when its coming down from this orbit in order to save the ball. Annoying. I tried pushing down the left scoop to make it flush with the playfield but I am not successful. Anyone else experience this with their GB? Do I need to get under the playfield and take out this mech and re adjust it? My GB is playing like a dream other than this issue. Thanks for the help!

Are you sure it's not hitting the spinner? That happens on about 1/10 times on the Prem we have on route. Film it with an iphone in slo-mo mode and you can see for sure what the culprit is, but I bet it's the side of the spinner.

#4022 2 years ago
Quoted from MorbidFetus:

Thinking of geting a new GB premium. Have stern fix alot of the problems or is it the same as the old versions?

You need the 5 degree angled shapeways brackets someone on here sells on the left and right of the left ramp to stop airballs, and the ball protectors over the outlane/inlanes on the left and right to stop ball hopping, but that's about it.

Before you take delivery make sure that the "reinforcement" bubble on the playfield art between the slings is spelled correctly. Most Prems should be okay, but worth checking.

#4031 2 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

So I just picked up a GB Pro, and it had 1.12 on it, so I updated it to 1.13. When I went to start a game on it, it goes into "Locating Pinballs" mode continously. I tested both the trough and the captive ball tests, and both are fine. However, when I put 6 balls in the trough, now it's fine. Did they somehow bump the requirement from 4 to 6 with this update? There's no mention of it in the notes. I made sure I downloaded the Pro code and not the LE/Prem code as I know that one uses 6 balls.

Feature matrix says all versions of Ghostbusters are 6 balls.

#4033 2 years ago
Quoted from flashburn:

Sticker says 4 balls, all trough's always have all 6 sensors, so they always show up that way. It was playing perfectly fine with 4 balls and the 1.12 code.

Crazy. Feature matrix is wrong, then.

#4048 2 years ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

Hello, my friend is experiencing a big trouble with his Ghostbusters Premium. A lane switch was activating alone so I just did a visual checkup of the switch but after we replaced the playfield everytime we press the left or right flip, we have 5 coils that are machine gunning!! (Left flip coil, right flip coil, ball release coil, ball launcher coil and left scoop coil). They are all connected to the #8 board.
In the switch test menu, when I press the LEFT flip, after the machine gunning, i release the button and it says RIGHT flip EOS.
I check all connectors on this board and everything is correctly insert.
I am not an expert so I am asking in this great community to get some solutions for him
Thanks a lot,

Did you check the switch with the power on or off? Did you do anything to the switch you originally lifted the playfield to check?

Slide the playfield forward while having someone watch the back of the playfield as it moves forward. Sometimes the wire bundle can get caught on the left or right cabinet playfield slide rail, and putting the playfield down pinches it, shorting one or more wires in that bundle to ground.

#4050 2 years ago
Quoted from ChrisLIX:

I just went into diag/switch/test and activated some switches a couple of time manually to see if it was accurate because during the game, we were capturing ghosts without moving the ball.... Then when we replaced the playfield and the new problem started... Whatever in which position the playfield is, the problem always happen... Tried to unplug the power and start the machine but same trouble.
btw,I have joined a pic of what is displayed on the dmd after I release the left flip button.... Always returning to right flip EOS.
[quoted image]

I don't think the right flipper EOS is the issue. Check the gap on the right EOS switch compared to the left. Adjust the right EOS.

Did you make sure that the wire going to the backbox wasn't pinched in the guide rail on the inside back of the cabinet?

#4065 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

While I am waiting for stern to contact me I wanted to fish for suggestions on an update problem I'm having.
I am trying to upate my GBLE from 1.05 to 1.13. I have the correct file (ghostbusters_le-1_13) and followed the update directions perfectly. However upon updating it immediately stops and says update failed.
I have downloaded the file three times. Tried 4 different flash drives, formatted them, even tried a brand new one.
Any suggestions?

Have you re-downloaded? Sounds like it may be a corrupted file.

#4067 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Would like to add that I downloaded it a 4th time on a seperate computer and no go. I even downloaded a 1.12 version of the file and it failed to update the same. Just drove out to the store and picked up 2 more flash drives- update failed again. It doesnt even get to unpack the files, it stops at like file 6. Something is telling me this is a hardware issue. Tried a long format on one of my flash drives and no go as well.

Might be a corrupted SD card. Get someone to send you an Ghostbusters LE image and re-image a new SD, then try to update that.

Also, when you powered down before inserting the USB, how long was it off?

#4072 2 years ago

Let us know how it works out and if it solves your upgrading problem.

#4074 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Wish I had better news but it failed again with the recovery image.
Hope Stern has some clue as to what is going on.
I will post updates..

So does it get as far as letting you select the file from the screen to update the image, then fails when the progress bar is on the screen?

#4077 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

So Im really confused now.
Got the CPU board installed and tried to update but failed the same.
Chas at Stern emailed me asking if I had unzipped the files first. I replied back that I wasn't aware the file was compressed for it downloaded originally as an .spk file... I haven't heard back, and dont expect to until Monday.
Yeah Im really confused at this point.

Check the output from the power supply. Should be 48v.

#4079 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Replaced the PSU, replaced the power distribution board. Still no update.
So now is it narrowed down to the flash drive and or the SD? Can a faulty node board under the playfield cause an update to fail?

Given that Stern has been stingy with actual technical documentation on Spike for over 2 years now, despite Gomez's failed promises to release more, who knows? We're all in trial and error land.

When you imaged the new SD card, was it a NEW card, or was it something just laying around? Same size and rating as the SD card in the machine? What happened? Did it work like the other stock card, but just wouldn't update, either?

Also, when you do the update, you might want to record it with an iphone in slo-mo mode. Maybe it's flashing a message so quickly you can't see it. Playback in slomo might help yield a clue.

#4081 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Just noticed that I have an error now. Game fires up, shows scores then says "No Signal From Power Distribution Board" Re-seated the cables and same thing. Not sure if this is from the new power supply or what.
The blank SD card I used was new, 64G. Still need to try a real GBLE SD to be sure, but the update failed the same while copying files to the blank Spike image SD
It stops at 6 files being unpacked, you can see breifly before it fails.

I think the power distribution board is that one with the big capacitors to the left of the Meanwell power supply.

Did you slo-mo record to see if there were any messages flashed when it fails?

#4083 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

I just noticed the file I keep downloading is 984MB from stern, The original is supposed to be 985mb I thought.
No need for slow-motion video. It unpacks the files then fails at file #6 of the update.

Shows up as 984mb on my computer. Exact file size is 1,032,641,242 bytes.

#4085 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Thats what I have as well. So I guess we know my file is ok.

When you re-downloaded it, did you delete the old one then download again? Try downloading it again and saving it to a different hard drive, or renaming the one you have now so it will write to a different part of the hard drive. Maybe you have a failing section of your hard drive and it keeps writing to the same place making bad ones over and over.

#4087 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

Yeah I did. Just a minute ago I downloaded it onto a separate computer onto a new 16g flash drive and still no go. Pretty sure at this point its not the file or flash drives.
I lifted the playfield and saw this small board had a questionable fuse. It has continuity but the filament is buldging. I dont have this fuse on hand but will pick one up later tonight.
You by chance know what this board controls? Its at the very back of the playfield.
Thanks for your help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What's wrong with that fuse?

#4089 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

It has a buldge in the middle, is that normal? Doesn't seem like it.
I found out the board in question is the Motor Driver Board.

That's the way that fuse is supposed to look when it's good.

Have you tried taking your machine to an interim version like 1.11?

1 month later
#4106 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all - someone mentioned drop target ledge solution they may have done. I believe it came up earlier on this thread. i fixed my earlier drop target (fatboy/nunzio) and it only lasted for about 3 I don''t' mind replacing them but if there's a better solution out there...I'd be up for it.
Someone was considering making the ledge part out of metal - wonder if anyone has tried this?

Thicker plastic works fine. Just cut a piece of PET-G or the like into a thin rectangular shape and drill two small holes in it. Much stronger than the new (since about GoT time) crappy super-thin plastic Stern part.

#4108 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Is there a link as I don't understand where this petg plastic is installed. Does it brace the140's back of a target?

I don't have a picture. Maybe I'll make a guide when I do the next one. Basically there's a thin "ledge" screwed to the metal bracket OPPOSITE the drop target, and that's what holds the target up, until it's hit, knocking the target's ledge off the bracket's ledge, letting the drop target drop. The ledge on the bracket is what Stern has cheaped out on since about 2013-4, making them thinner than ever and much more fragile for such a high-wear area. Making your own replacement when yours breaks is definitely the better idea.

#4110 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Thanks Vireland - I can almost see myself buying a sheet of PETG and cutting..
But I noticed the official part ( , has a a dip/reduction in the plastic towards one side (between the two holes) - I'm not sure of the design but wouldn't you need to replicate this on a cut piece of PETG too, in order to ensure the catch/release mechanism of the target etc?
Also would this size thickness of PETG work? link »

The drop target has a "ramp" molded into it, so it's not absolutely necessary on the "ledge" part, but yeah, you can trim it with an x-acto knife or a dremel. It's a short distance to angle. May take some trial and error. If you do it, it will make the action a little smoother, but it won't stop it from working if you don't.

You don't have some old yellowed cracked or broken pinball plastic laying around you can cut a piece out of? It doesn't have to be pretty - no one will be seeing it but you, and probably only once. I usually just repurpose one of those (sometimes I'll use leftover shadow clear plastic set plastics I have laying around). No need to buy a whole sheet to make a .75" x .15" (not actual dimensions!) little piece.

1 week later
#4112 2 years ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Had to followup on this...Vireland - what a GREAT idea / solution. Here's what I ended up making using a dremel. Note the extra layer of padding, from a cut of a poster board. Seems I needed a little more thickness to ensure a consistent 'latch'. Works great. I hope it lasts longer than 3 months. If so I will be replacing the other with a similar solution.[quoted image]

Yeah, it's ugly, but it does work! Those Stern factory ones are just unacceptably thin and fragile these days. Another hidden cost reduction we're all paying for in the end. I've literally never had one break on ANY pin in almost 40 years until GoT, which broke in 6 months.

#4114 2 years ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

I got the same issue so I make this spare part
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Let me know how it holds up. I've wondered if an additive 3D printed part would have enough strength to withstand the abuse this part takes. If so, it's close to a perfect solution.

#4117 2 years ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

Hi , this parts is in my GB since more than 500 plays , and it's good

Can you send me the file and I'll try printing one here?

#4141 2 years ago
Quoted from KenToad:

My right flipper button on my Ghostbusters Pro started behaving erratically and now has stopped functioning altogether. The flipper coil works fine in the test menu. Leaf switches and all connections look fine. No other issues besides a single dead pixel. Any ideas for further diagnostics before I call my distributor here in the Milwaukee area?

Test the actual switch instead of just looking at it. Switch test mode.

#4143 2 years ago
Quoted from KenToad:

Nothing happens when I press the switch in switch test mode.

So that's your problem. Broken wire, or broken switch. Can you take a picture of the switch? My *guess* is the leaf connections have bent too far apart over time and they're just not making connection anymore, which a simple bend will fix. Could also be a broken wire or the switch physically broken off on one side. A picture will help.

#4145 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

follow the wires all the way from the flipper switch to the backbox

It's more likely the switch itself is the problem, either from a broken wire at the switch or (more likely) the connections not touching anymore. But a picture of the switch would help.

#4147 2 years ago
Quoted from KenToad:

The leaf switch appears to be fine, leafs are making solid contact and the wires are firmly soldered to the switch and ground tabs. I've tried following the wires, but they get sort of lost in the large bundle about three quarters back in the cabinet. I'm pretty sure I identified the wire colors, though and I've looked at all the connections on the spike board and nodes 8 and 9. So far, I can't see any wires that look loose or disconnected, although I agree that the behavior seems to point to faulty wiring.

Test the connection at the board, then.

Go into switch test mode. Remove the connector CN9 from Node 8 Board. Use a jumper to connect pins 7 and 3. The right flipper should activate in the switch test. If it does not, you have a board problem. If it DOES work, you have a wiring problem and just need to put a multimeter in continuity mode and one probe on pin 3, and then the other probe on the corresponding wire at the switch and see if there's continuity. Then repeat using pin 7 and the ground wire at the switch to make sure there's continuity. that will at least tell you whether it's a board or a wire problem, and if a wire problem WHICH wire.

#4155 2 years ago
Quoted from KenToad:

I watched a Youtube video to figure out how to safely pull the wires out from the connector. Then I tested the ground and switch, holding them right up against the pins and voila, it worked! It looks like the switch wire lost some metal at some point. It's just not enough metal to properly connect to the switch pin, if that makes sense. I'm on my desktop right now or I would post pictures. Sorry about that. But I want to say a big thank you to you guys for helping me out with this problem.
One more question, regarding the dead pixel, is that indicative that the life of the DMD may be coming to an end? I bought the pin direct from a local distributor about a year and a half ago. Is there a standard warranty on these types of parts? Just asking to see what you guys know before I call.

They had a problem with some of those displays and were extending the warranty, but I think 18 months is too far gone to get it covered. Never hurts to ask, though.

Good news is, you can get a never-used replacement for about $80 shipped that's essentially a brand-new pull from someone that put a ColorDMD in their machine. Check the marketplace. Less than half the price of new.

2 months later
#4194 1 year ago
Quoted from Rydhia:

Has anyone had the issue where Slimer doesn't lift at all while in play on a pro machine? Its causing the ball to get stuck behind him all of the time. Here's a link to a video of it:

Sorry if this has been asked, I've tried to sift through this site and others and can't find this specific problem.

Looks like it's bound and can't lift up - you can see it hopping, but not going up. Does it work in test mode? I'd check the motor assembly and see if it has a stripped gear OR the switches are saying it's home when it's not. The Pro version assembly is pictured in the manual on page 46.

2 weeks later
#4203 1 year ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Just received my NIB Ghostbusters and enjoying it thoroughly.
Im having a problem where the balls keep getting stuck in any of the pke 3 rollover lanes. The ball gets stuck right after the sensor at the bottom part. It happens fairly often (30% of games) and I have to shake it to set it free. Does anyone have suggestions on how to resolve?

Sounds like maybe the wrong rubber is on the bottom post of the rollovers, making it too tight for the ball to get through. Is the ball making contact with the sides at the bottom of the rollover lanes?

Also, do you have the game at 6.5-ish degree angle? If it's too flat it won't work right, either.

#4212 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

My wife has put about 50 games on GB Premium since I installed these and she said she doesn't recall any airballs taking place since I installed the Swinks target brackets. So I would say this is a great fix. This is the picture of them installed.
[quoted image]

The only problem I noticed is you can have balls rocket off the ramp with the Swink's brackets, but it doesn't happen often. It's a great solution.

#4217 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Does anybody’s Librarian screams extra louder than normal when she screams is that normal way with the new update? Also any help/directions how to replace flippers or how to fix them my flippers feel sloppy/slack? I would like them to feel crisp

A> I have no idea. That random librarian scream has been turned off since week one.
B> Were your flippers always sloppy-feeling, or did they get that way over time?

#4220 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

1:20 to 1:30 in new the Head to Head podcast sheds some light on the GB code. Long story short, "Are you a god" wasn't supposed to be there. Dwight now will have time to work on old code issues on his games once he is done with Munsters, because Stern now has 9 internal coders and 3 outside coders. Dwight is the last lead programmer to come off a project after all these new hires have come on, so he will have a lot of time to revisit code like Lyman has been able to do. Fingers crossed?

"If it wasn't buggy and it wasn't messy, it'd be complete." That's the problem. It IS a buggy mess. You can't wish it away.

#4222 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Obviously we'll never know the truth, but the way he talked bout "Are you a god" makes me think he is just tying to say he isn't going to do anything. He says it wasn't supposed to be in version 1.0, which implies it was slated for a later release. He also talk about how it was just a thought and that it made it onto the instruction card when it wasn't intended to be a mode.. etc.. To me, that's more of Stern trying to weasel out of finishing the game, but I could be wrong.

The ol' "as designed" party line.

#4226 1 year ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

Are you getting lane hops (from the inlane to the outlane over the bar)? Have you closed up the posts all the way already? Picture of your lower PF would be helpful to see where you're at already.

#4229 1 year ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I have the plastics to prevent the lane jumping already. I was looking for something to put on the the end of the outer lane guides to lessen the drains. Close the opening some.
There's a guy in France selling something that looks like he 3D printed to snap on but for $30 I'll pass.

But did you close up the outlane posts?

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I am asking what to use or do to lessen the gap while still allowing drains. Just not as easy or frequent of drains.
Is there something to put on the end of the lane guide circled in blue to lessen the gap in red?[quoted image][quoted image]

You're looking at the wrong place to fix your issue. Drop that post on the outside of each side down with the rubber on it one more notch to the bottommost hole. It will lessen the number of drains you're seeing.

You could also look at your audits to see which drain has more balls go out it and just drop the post on that side to balance it out rather than dropping both.

#4241 1 year ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I saw your save posts but for $31 I just can't do it.

Then lowering your outer posts is free and likely will address much of your problem.

1 week later
#4243 1 year ago
Quoted from callaway15:

Is there a special tool for adjusting the outlane drain pins? I want to move them to the bottom position on my premium. I have the left one off, and it seems like the pin doesn’t want to go down into the bottom most hole. I’m won’t if there is a long socket driver you can get to screw it down into the hole?
Or, do you just have to gently hammer it down in, then secure with the washer and bolt on the bottom?
My other issue is on the right drain pin, there is the plastic protector above it, and it gets in the way of being able to pull the pin up and out. Suggestions? Try to just lift and bend the plastic enough to get it out?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, just gently hammer it in.

On the right I'd take the plastic off or rotate the bottom out of the way. If you flex too much, you will crack/break the plastic.

#4247 1 year ago
Quoted from rooky79:

Hey guys, I’ve had a couple of issues with my GB Prem running code 1.13 and I’ve got someone onto it to fix, but figured I’d chuck it up here in case someone had a similar issue.
First, the librarian scoop wasn’t registering and looked like a switch issue. The switch was replaced and still a problem with intermittent registering. Turns out it was the connector. So that got changed and now works right as rain.
Then the optos in the subway and right orbit went dead. They don’t register at all. There were some VUK kicking off too by themselves but I wasn’t there when they had a fix for that.
Just wondering if it’s anything to do with the node boards I keep hearing about shitting themselves. I have next to no experience in troubleshooting this stuff
Cheers in advance

For the optos, I belive they just plug into a distribution board, Follow one of them back from the opto to the connection and I'd check all those connections and see if they just came loose.

Have all the service bulletins been done on your machine? The later run machines had them done from the factory, but early to mid run you may not have them done, and that can definitely mess up your machine:

Flasher insulation:

Node Board component reinforcement kit (so the diode doesn't break off the board):

Capacitor kit to stop false switch activations:

Being international, I'm not sure how you get these service kits. In the US, you just call Stern and they send them to you for free. Maybe contact your distributor?

3 weeks later
#4252 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

New to hobby
I purchase a HUO GB premium I notice my flipper feel sloppy or better said they dont feel like responsive/crips when I push the flipper buttons is there a way to adjust or do I have to do a flipper rebuild? Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Hard to say remotely, but here's two things to try:

You can look at the gap of the switches at the flipper buttons on the inside of the cabinet. It may just be that you have to press too much before the switches make contact and the flipper responds, making it feel sloppy. That's an easy fix - just adjust the switch closer to the flipper button end by bending it slightly.

Another thing to check is the coil stops. Take off the coil stops and see if they're mushed that's one of the first things that goes with heavy play and will let you know if you should do a full rebuild of the flippers.

#4256 1 year ago
Quoted from rooky79:

Anyone had any of their GB node boards blow?

As long as you do the two service bulletin updates they're pretty stable.

#4257 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Ok thank you..I'll check it out, is there any instructions how to do a flipper rebuild on GB I case I need to? I own a monster bash remake and the flippers feel really crisp and responsive.

You can just get a kit from Marco that has all the parts you need for both sides:

It's pretty self-explanatory. Take one side apart and use the flipper on the other side that's still assembled for reference.

Try adjusting the flipper switches first, though. Much cheaper solution.

1 week later
#4260 1 year ago
Quoted from rooky79:

Hmm I’m not so sure about that. At least 5 machines (GOTG, GB x 2, BM66 x 2) I know off all have the service updates and a mix of 8, 9 and 10 boards, so not so sure on the service update making them stable....

Must be pretty rare or there'd be a lot more outcry here. There are quite a few spike out on the route I help with and none have blown node boards.

1 month later
#4269 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76: Airball protector broke! Thing was working great..but it's just a piece of plastic...was having a great game too...
as far as I can tell the original seller is out of stock. **UPDATE vendor indicated they will have in stock next week**
Can anyone recommend a replacement or current best method to address the left lane airballs?
[quoted image]

Forget the plastic covers and just get two of the swinks target brackets he sells on shapeways. Work great to cut airballs by like 90% and no big plastic hanging over your playfield.

7 months later
#4341 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey guys, just had my first real issue with GB.. of course within the first 10 minutes of having company over.
Says Node Board 9 Failure.
Could this be software related or am I in for buying a new node board?

First, were the Service bulletin upgrades already done on this machine? If not, vibration can cause this failure:

Second, check the connections to the board first, both two and from.

#4344 11 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Do you know where someone who is not in the business can obtain these tech bulletins for ghostbusters? I like to have all the tech docs available prior to having the issue.
Stern only shows 4 tech bulletins for GB on its site. Surely there must have been more.

Pretty sure Stern posts the ones that matter to their website. The "advisory" level ones about transitory issues are communicated to their distributors.

#4349 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Actually, im an idiot lol. I had the parts for service and I never installed them!!! ugghh

It's possible, then, that the diode has come loose from the node board from vibration, cutting off power. Stern can help you diagnose.

#4352 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Yes, it is definitely loose. I checked it. It feels like its about to break off. It was leaning really far over when I spotted it last night and when I bent it back with intentions of putting the spacer in, it felt like it was going to break off...

Sounds like the diode from the service bulletin is your issue, then. If you have soldering skills you can likely fix it yourself.

#4354 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

haha, that is the challenge in itself for me. Im not very good but I guess at this point it couldnt hurt!
Thanks again for the help.. very appreciated.

Borygard here on pinside repairs node boards. Might want to see if he can do it for you, or if he has a swap service.

#4356 11 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Its all good. I ordered another one.
I assume I will need to reinstall the code to program that new node?

It should automatically program the new node board when you power on. Just make sure the dip switch settings are right first.

#4359 11 months ago
Quoted from tppin:

This may have already been answered so my apologies for reposting. I’ve recently noticed that in the Triple Newton Ball feature, the ball is getting caught up at the gate (see photo with orange circle where ball is getting caught). Is there an easy fix for this? Thanks![quoted image]

Does the gate move freely with your hand? It looks like the lower wire for the gate might be close enough to the plastic that it binds. If that's it, bend it just a little to create some clearance.

Are you perfectly level side to side? What's your playfield pitch?

3 weeks later
#4378 10 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Did stern change the design of node boards 8 and 9? I realize they are the same part number. Reason for asking. Error message: “node board 9 not found” on start up. Using diagnostics node 9 not initialized (Only led on is red=constant). So I look at the pdf file on sterns website to add a foam or whatever piece to lessen vibration on a diode so it wont break. Well neither of my node boards have the d9 shown on the photos on their pdf.
Marco doesn’t have these in stock. I imagine no one does and they all just order as needed from stern?
Only had this 3rd hand machine a few months, looked at the manual, looked in the back box, cabinet also.... so where do they hide the damn fuses? Are they inside the power supply... main board has all power leds as well as Rx Tx, etc all looking like they should.
Any thoughts or pointers regarding this appreciated.

Was the service kit done on your node boards before you got it? If not, the diode leg likely just broke off the board.

You can swap node 8 and 9 and just change the dip switches so 8 becomes a 9.

Also, if you don't have experience to try to fix the board, borygard here on pinside repairs these.

Can you take a clear picture of your node 9 board so I can see what you're talking about with D9 being missing?

#4385 10 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Found in another post, Some boards had the D9 diode installed as surface mount... Either way still waiting for a new board to arrive. I bought 3 so I have spares from 3 different vendors. From what i have been reading it will be piece of mind. Lots of info in the thread "holy node board batman"

Definitely contact Borygard to see if he can fix your broken node board. He likely can...

#4387 10 months ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Anyone know what Borygard charges to diagnose/repair a node board??

Probably depends on which node board. Send him a PM.

1 month later
#4420 8 months ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

Hey guys,
Have a couple issues with my new GB Premium and I can't find a solid answer to either of them in the forums.
1. My right Scoleri target will not rise. I took the stock spring and extended it 10 coils to make it easier to drop but now it wont rise. Tried in test mode and it worked. Tried it in game; not consist in rising up.
2. The switch at the top of the left ramp does not consistently register the ball.
Any help with these issues would be greatly appreciated.
Looking forward to your thoughts on these.

1. Sounds like you made the spring too hard for the momentary pulse in the game to raise the target. Switch the spring from the other target to it and see if your problem is resolved. If it is, replace the spring you gimped.

2. Bend out the switch arm more. If it still won't register consistently, replace the switch. This particular switch is known to go bad pretty often.

2 weeks later
#4431 8 months ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

With the latest version of code, is anyone else getting credit for ramps or orbits during modes even though you don't hit them? Seems to happen when I hit the ghost target but not every shot that hits the ghost target advances the mode.

Sounds like you have a switch registering from vibration. Put it in switch test mode and smack the playfield firmly in various places with an open palm and see if any switches register. If they do, widen the switch gap on those switches.

4 months later
#4442 3 months ago
Quoted from Yfichelle:

Hi all,
I have a problem with the left scoop... the ball is anymore detected... i thought it was the switch.. when i press with my finger, it doesn't work.... i have changed the switch with a new one... and same, dont work... Connector on the Node 8 is well plugged, wire (blue-white) is well in the pin...
If you have some clues to give me, you will be my hero

Did you test the switch in switch test mode before you installed it on the mount for the scoop?

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