There was a post in the review thread about fixing Slimer: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-my-half-ass-review/page/4#post-3112941

Might make sense to you I can't visualize what is being tie wrapped based on the breakdown but please post pictures if you make the same fix!

You had to cut the shrink tubing for the pictures you showed or that was just a suggestion? I don't see any wire ties in your before and afters but I might be missing them

Thanks for the info!

I know it has been said already in the "main" thread and in the review thread, but holy crap this^^^

I understand if they were trying to save on plastic I guess(?) but having them be so short is absurd. Got in around 20 games tonight and this was far and away the most frustrating part. The game is already brutally difficult as it is without getting scummed on a moderately fast ball hopping right over the guide. Really fun game aside from a few one-hoppers

What is the easiest way to mod this that doesn't look like total crap?

You appear to be confused, sir. Has to be one or the other. But I played on that table and it was guide jumps all day so I will go with the latter.

Center post is awful but it did help with the balls out of the left side of the pops when you could not nudge it into the guide. I can't imagine requesting someone drill a hole in a brand new playfield like that

That wire solution picture makes me want to cry.

So you somehow left out at first that the other people you played with had issues? Seems like an important piece of context since your review implied there were no issues on the table you played and the topic of the thread is issues.

Were you the "hey this game has a reverse skill shot!" guy? (Whatever that means.)

Ugh, that is a gross change. Investing in going after the captive balls is dangerous enough that I kind of liked it staying lit (and was fine with one lock out of Tobin/pops as mentioned) but I guess it was a bug

Hopefully they buffed the chances of the pops lighting the lock to compensate. I recall seeing that happen a lot in Jack's video but confirmation bias, sample size, etc.

Is this official from Stern or just a rumor?

That is kind of awesome actually and now I *don't* want to get mine this week if they are fixing stuff.

Did they mention this on their Facebook page or anything or do you just know a guy who knows a guy, etc.?

The warranty only covers CPU board defects and display failures.

I am sure they will hook people up with cheap parts if they swap something out but Stern is under no obligation to do so.

Man now i am super torn and kind of want my Pro to be delayed

The Pro I play on location has a totally jacked up Slimer already and I don't want to have to deal with that, but I guess I could just buy the new mech directly from Stern...

Please do! I am reaching out to my distributor as well. I don't mind paying up but I am not going to deal with that old Slimer mech if I don't have to.

Can you try explaining it a different way? Your picture just looks like the Slimer mech, I can't see what is different.

Yeah I didn't understand it either. Definitely appreciate the info about getting the mech from Stern and thanks for keeping us posted!

I told my distributor to just order me one but have not heard back yet.

Man i don't care about wires and connectors at all, those can be covered up. I just want the stupid thing to work. Pretty sure it is supposed to register all kinds that wobble him. Slimer isn't supposed to be insanely difficult to chase away.

On the old mech table I play on even a full solid shot directly down the lightning bolt only registers about 50% of the time. And you can tell something is wrong because in multiplayer games the shaker motor goes off when resetting the captive balls and it will register a hit for the next player if he is working on Slimer

Still not sure what to do about the outlane guides. Can they be pulled without wrecking the playfield?

They won't ship to America?

That is the ball-hopping solution I knew would come along eventually Looks amazing sirlonzealot!

Did you make the same Slimer adjustment in this thread with moving the cable?

I can pay you via paypal for the cost of shipping and the kit if you want to help out some pinball brothers across the pond

That would be amazing. I desperately need this mod haha.

Only issue so far out of the box is a full plunge is hitting something around the right orbit gate behind Stay Puft. I can't tell if I need to bend the guide or if the ball is getting too much air and hitting the gate high (playfield is at 6.5° nothing fancy)

I can work around it but auto plunges are hard enough they end up stopping short and coming back down the right orbit instead of all the way around. Not the worst but it feels clunky.

Sick!!!

I need someone to play the game while I look with the glass off because I can't even tell exactly what is happening. I do see Stay Puft wiggle now though when it happens so I assume it is getting too much air off the plunge and hitting him in the side?

I do have a pretty big dent(?) in my playfield from an airball in front of the Terror Dog drop target. Kind of makes the ball wobble a little if it is going slowly. I guess that is just a normal part of the playfield getting broken in but it kind of sucks a little.

yeah i have those too, this one is like really huge though. maybe it shipped that way and i didn't notice but it is a pretty noticeable dimple that is bigger than the normal ones.

My plunger already has a red spring though if that is what is being discussed. And even if I replaced it the auto plunge doesn't use the spring so it would still happen on ball saves and at the beginning of multiball. I need a real fix with whatever is being collided with.

Also after about 50 games my Book Stacking ball guide is bent badly and the ball is stuck. Has the extra ball fix been working for people?

Appreciate the info. I also don't care if mine curves at all I just want it to work.

Thank you, that makes sense. I wish there was a way to turn down the auto-plunge power in the options menu...

I can't complain though the game plays amazing not counting these minor issues. And the first one (book stacking captive ball) took less than 5 minutes to fix.

Have you done anything to fix slimer? I notice your Slimer mech looks like mine does where it is straight-ish but definitely not perpendicular through the assembly. Mine registers even tiny table shakes and will sometimes double hit on a solid hit. I don't mind it being easier versus annoyingly impossible since the modes are the meat of the game but I would like to fix it if possible.

For sure. The cable is too close to the front of the actuator plate, so he doesn't register side glances improperly, but anything dead-on double registers. The ball rolling into him slowly from behind out of the pops is enough for a hit to register and sometimes the wobble from the pops going off will too. A weak nudge forward on the table registers about 90% of the time.

It might be easiest to zip the top part of the cable snugly into place. Going to take the glass off tomorrow and mess with it some.

I don't understand installing the PBU kit

The diagram makes it look like you install it under the original plastic but that isn't possible since it is bolted in everywhere and would be uneven.

Never mind I see the post in the other thread from phbooms...

I can not fix "new" Slimer mech for the life of me. Mine looks exactly like the picture in this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/10#post-3161251

The bottom of the cable hits the front of the assembly too easily since it is sort of tilted forward. I tried to straighten it up but it doesn't stay and i am not even sure a zip tie would help.

Does anyone have an overly sensitive newer Slimer mech that they were able to adjust?

(I feel like Stern could easily adjust this in software as well since the switch hits so rapidly on hard hits when you test it.)

Managed to finally fix my "new" Slimer mech. It took a zip tie to do and looks ugly as hell but he will not register at all to the pops or vigorous shaking and registers great with clean hits.

My only remaining issue is the diverter switch for the left ramp to the Storage Facility. It activates any time a clean orbit shot or plunge happens as well as when it should (Storage Facility locks, starting modes.) It didn't seem to be a problem at first but the overworking seems to make it not work after a lot of games if I don't unplug and replug the machine or go into diagnostics menu and force it to work in the coil test. Maybe something in that switch assembly is becoming magnetized? Not sure how to investigate it further or if part if it is a software bug. Any ideas or anyone seen this?