did a road trip and finally picked up a new GB Pro. beautiful looking game...

I haven't played yet and noticed already probably 100 dimples (to be expected from a play test but still surprising having not played it yet). My question to those having bought new sterns, on inspecting the playfield I noticed 6-7 raised bumps in the clear where it must of had crap / dust on the playfield when curing and never buffed off. What is going to happen to these spots as that are in the main front to middle of the playfield. Will they level off or will the clear possibly crack / chip? I can't put a mylar piece on it as it will just bubble.

is this just a normal thing and will the raised bumps level out?

no it looks like after it has been cleared some larger dust particles landing in the clear in a number of spots, almost like a mini pimple, just thought it would of been caught or buffed out. Also the bumps are not over any inserts

here are some pictures, shipment only arrived in Aus mid Jan, so probably left beginning to mid Dec. Distributor play tested as they said they put in the latest code and it has some random code of 54(random numbered) score. They also broke the rule and repacked and left balls in the game and didn't realise until I heard so rolling and then crashing when I lifted from flat to vertical out of the van. Here are some of the photos of the raised bits, I didn't take photos of the dimples at this stage as knew they were inevitable.

playfield number
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I tried to line up the raised point in the fluro reflection
just above the flipper
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just behind the drop
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just above one of the inserts
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there are others but this gives you the idea.
will these wear down?

or chip?

and does anyone know if this is one of the problem playfields or one of the better ones and which company would of made this? just curious

just my experience, I had a vinyl type insert protectors from a CFTBL set I bought a while back and cut up 2 to fit to the drop targets and one peeled over at a corner after a few days - probably an application issue from myself. So peeled off and cleaned up with Novus 1 to then plan to redo but noticed that where the front edge of the vinyl protector was left a residue that can't be removed with Novus 1 or has etched the clearcoat.

I don't know what has happened but removed the other one as well and has the same issue.

so it safe to use on new playfields - can you post a picture of the product as I am in Aus so might not be available.

Mine was a late November playfield and early December build and arrived in Aus early Feb. So far put up about 400 games.

Positives
- haven't had to play with the slimer mech / switch at all.
- had zero ball hops on the outlanes.

Minor Issues
- right to left orbit doesn't always register as a pass around and seems to be on the hard and fast shots.
- put in a 2-3mm think padded tape behind the x2 and x3 targets which has brought down the air balls but still get a few good ones when clipping the blue block rubbers
- pop up stand-ups doesn't always drop and starting to see a couple of mild impressions on the holes from the standups pushing back on to the rear edge.
- lots and lots of dimples (standard)
- had about 6 inclusions - dust in the clear raising the clear to little mini raised points but hoping they wear down over time - can't see them when playing.

Overall pretty good and so much fun - got some mod ideas.

gotta a few ideas and improvements and a sticker ready to go with them for a bit of fun

screen-capture-35 (resized).png

it could be possible that you switch is at the point of engaging or not.

when it doesn't award and is kicked out is it during a ball search where you hear all the mechs pop?

haven't a problem with my pro, was very dialed in from unboxing and now in the 400 game range and no out lane hop

that is bad, still shows their work and QA isn't great - come on Stern

know the feeling.

nice work on the score and your new adjusted angle is almost the same as factory how my game came from a November build

yeah mine is almost the same as that, must be when the improved playfields started late half of 2016

as per Allibaster stated, with just one extra thing ensure you maintain the same height of the bat off the playfield otherwise you will lose art quickly.

my game has been working really well and then after about 450 games the left scoop just sudden snapped the spot welds - I removed and on inspection noticed the spot welds aren't penetrating and bonding well through both pieces = weld intensity not correct or spot welded time frame too short. So I dare say this will occur to others in time.

bracket drops down
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then lifted up
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to remove - remove the plastic which will then expose 2 x 5/64 allen headed bolts and remove those first
P1150235 (resized).JPG

lift the playfield up and remove the hex head wood screw so the assembly can drop out
P1150236 (resized).JPG

the broken spot welds
P1150237 (resized).JPG

will look to see if I can drill and tap and report back unless someone else can recommend another solution. I could get a work mate to SS weld but then would have to wait until Tuesday next week......

great info chucksmith and totally agree ad people should not be nervous or frustrated as now there are some specific solutions and help for the issues and saves 50 other threads being created for one off issues. I think it is valuable.

I got the pro and apart from the scoop it has been awesome out of the box and not a issue at all but even the scoop issue was fixable and now bullet proof.

I do recommend cliffy's shooter lane and drain hole protectors as security to protect those areas.
I did not have to calibrate a thing - slimer has been great.

The airballs is a target issue and even though the air protector is controlling the issue, the issue is really the target design has changed as the Bally / WMS have an angle of less than 90 degrees (roughly 85-86 degrees) so when a ball impacts the target it stays low and to the playfield more. The Stern ones are 90 degrees and when the ball it impacts it, the flexible target can bend beyond 90 degrees which then in turn means the ball is then more likely to be made airborne. This will be an issue on any straight on impacts at high speed. I am in the midst of testing the target with a small insert able wedge and it is working well as it is leaning the target approximately 4 degrees forward and practically removed all airballs. I will open this up very soon - just wanted to test with a shapeways version wedge and then people can use these or the airball protectors.

could you post a few pictures with the playfield lifted up looking square on showing both support rails and then close up of the installation points as this will help others.

thanks the pics, will help me and others.

as mentioned in post #2727 (page 55) my scoop bracket on the lhs broke after about 2 months (450 plays) and clear that the spot welds did not penetrate well.

I removed and thought to post here as a guide for others if there game falls out of warranty.

tools needed
- I used a 4.2mm drill (for 4mm bolts)
- a cordless drill
- 2 x M4 x 10 bolts
- 2 x M4 nyloc nuts

remove the mech from the game - post #2727 explains to take the top plastic off first and then remove 2 of the allen headed bolts top side, then lift the playfield up and remove one screw and disconnect the solenoid and switch at a plug (no soldering to worried about).
P1150245 (resized).JPG
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for safety remove the switches and solenoid and good to go for drilling.

the top scoop bracket has 2 holes already in it - simply drill these out to 4.2mm or the equivalent imperial and the with the solenoid bracket will be 2 small pressed indents as on the other side these indents locate into the top scoop part. Drill out the indents from the recessed side right through with the same drill size as above. Since the design already has indents and holes, everything lines up well though when drilling the indents out pre-drill with a 2mm (half the final size) and clamp or vice your job and take it easy as stainless can grab your drill. Some people can may want to get it welded but the drill and bolt is super strong and won't warp the bracket.

P1150250 (resized).JPG

then I used stainless 4mm button allen headed screws on the ball side and then nyloc nuts on the backside - this way no ball interference's.

P1150251 (resized).JPG
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then re-assemble the switch and solenoid and it is now rock solid and will never break and the modification took all of 10 minutes once the mech was removed from the game - hope this helps a few people that get the same issue in the future.

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George Gomez said on a recent Kaneda interview that the clearcoat could be either thick, hard, glossy but at risk of cracking or thinner with a more flexible nature to stretch with movement (dimples)..... apparently went with the second

Ghostbusters Target Wedges

Finally got the parts back and did some final testing for a solution to the air balls off the X2 & X3 targets on the Ghostbusters pinball.

Basically the Stern targets are dead vertical and when hit bend back beyond the vertical which then allows the ball to go into the air. Bally / WMS targets leaned forward, so I devised a simple wedge that can be inserted into the existing Stern target assembly. This wedge now leans the target 4 degress forward from vertical and has been effective in stopping the massive airballs. I still get the random minor ball hop but has improved the design of the target and decreased the problem alot.

You will need 1 wedge per target. You will also have to source 1 x 1/8" longer bolt for the target assembly as there just isn't enough thread once the wedge is installed.

single and twin pack which will save you $2.15 in total
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinkstarget&type=

you will need 1 wedge and one 1/8" longer bolt / screw per target

IMG_1215 (resized).JPG

wedge installed
IMG_1216 (resized).JPG

wedge installed bolt view
IMG_1214 (resized).JPG

top side view with targets learning forward
IMG_1218 (resized).JPG

best I can offer is wait for a free shipping sale as happen a few times a year - become a member and then you will be notified. Not much I can do and since I am in Australia this has served well for the US guys to get parts at a reasonable postage rate for us it is $15USD regardless of size. can always bulk up the order
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=swinks&sort=newest
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=pinball&sort=newest

there is the single and then a twin pack option already...
the problem is finding the fine line of processing fee and then volume as they combine both, I can try to see if making a larger branch will be cost effective. How many do you need 4 or 6?

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

enjoy

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trim the 2 branches off to look like this
710x528_18132518_10646956_1492504627 (resized).png

with all respect to Art and his air ball protector or other peoples possible protectors, I merely looked at the issue from a different perspective - trying to solve the the cause and not controlling the wild air balls. So in doing so I turned the target into a bally style and put some angle back into it to keep the ball lower. As stated before I still get a minor hop every now and then but no massive air balls anymore. It is a cheap part so affordable to try and you can also add a small bit of foam double sided tape to the back of the target to keep a forward position if desired.

hopefully some reviews come soon as a few have already sent out

mine seems to remember what the initial ball launch skill shot was during the ball save time period
- if I plunged around to the left flipper and then I lost the ball it would remember this shot and shoot the ball right around to the left flipper
- if I plunged to the top lanes and drained it would plunge to the top in lanes - so I assuming that it is controlling a gate or the power of the launch
- if I plunged short so the ball doesn't go to the top in lanes but just exited out of the shooter lane and then dropped down to the right flipper it would just sit the ball in the shooter lane and then waits for me to manual launch

during a multiball all balls go to the top in lanes only.

I only just started get this last night as well on the left flipper only - interested to hear what the solution is?

double check the spot welds on the scoop to ensure nothing has loosened and dropped - happened to me on the lhs scoop.

this is a drawing that I just quickly found of a Sega flipper mech with the relevant naming on it so the design will be slightly different but the general parts are correct.

Basically loosened the Socket head (Sckt. Hd.) which in turn will loosen the grip on the Flipper Shaft - though take note it will have a tight grip probably already locked into a position. Once this is loose the flipper bat can and will possibly drop down closer to the playfield and it's angle change so before loosening any bolts take note of the angle of the flipper - cut a small cardboard template or use the hole reference in your playfield. Then use possibly 2 credit cards under the flipper to set the height of the flipper. Do a pre swing test to make sure the flipper bat can not swing around and touch the playfield as it needs some clearance (2 credit cards or your preference) - if the bat can touch it is set too low and will wreck your playfield in no time.

hope that helps

deflip1 (resized).png

thanks for sharing, must be marginal - original bolt is ok on some and on other s slightly longer needed

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.

basically 2 install locations

Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.

Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

wedge notes (resized).jpg

gweempose is correct, I am holding the target upside down as the angle between the mounting bracket and front face of the target is now 86 degrees (as opposed to 90 degrees before being hit) - check out adjusted photo.

I started at this point first but struck 3 problems:
1 - shapeways requires a minimum of 1mm thick so the thinnest part of the wedge is 1mm and this is a contributing factor to point 2
2 - one of the targets mounting brackets sits underneath a led circuit board (on the Pro at least) and it was getting too close for my liking so opted not to.
3 - main reason is it lowers the target and then the ball hits slightly higher on the target and re-introduces the air-ball issue so cancels out any gain as the target has more leverage to tilt the target back and go beyond the 90 degrees = more airballs again - hence the approach I decided to go with.

Also I checked out bally targets say from pinball life and they have about a 5 degree pitch forward compared to Stern's now vertical targets, and the reason I went for 4 degrees is that I am at the limit with 4 degrees before the bolting assembly and angled bolts does a few inconsistent things at 5 degrees with a 5 degree wedge.

wedge notes (resized).jpg

agree there is 2 different ways to assembly the wedge and Position 1 probably needs the extra padding to avoid the switch being too sensitive, but whether the wedge goes in front (Position 2) or at the back (Position 1) it tilts the target forward as per the photo.

Your suggestion of turning the wedge 180 degrees so the wider part of the wedge is towards the target that gets hit is wrong ,and will make the angle greater than 90 degrees and increase the chance of air balls.

Lastly Bally / Williams targets are designed with a 5 degree bend tilting the target / switch forward so it does work.

it does on my pro - kicks to the opposite flipper from the left scoop to the right flipper and with enough power to dead flip to the left flipper and catch and hold if I want.

how old is your game and game count?

it does look like ghosting or delaminating of the clear coat off the insert

that's no good, I would definitely hit them (Stern) up as apparently it would of been QA'd when assembled and it shouldn't delaminate in 100 plays.

about 6-8 weeks ago on facebook someone asked would there be any more code updates for GB, they did not say no and implied that in the future we would get a update - sorry can't remember the wording

I agree and hope so as well

what cpr9999 says does cover it but also play the game and see what the issues are from his list of things as I would not hit the ball guides if it does not need it or alternatively go for cliffy made / TaylorVA designed ball guides. I also would not install the cliffy's on the drops as they cause airballs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one

no, he drops down to the playfield level and then like yours bobs up and down and still being able to be hit in both limits of the bobbing.

I designed these brackets and for me a couple others that gave me feedback have said that they have made a large improvement.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-v2-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace

I believe it is to do with the angle of the bracket and the deflectors are just taming the air balls as the ball has already gone airborne and they are not made of polycarb so will break, where I had a theory and for me it has proven correct to cut airballs down by 90-95% with the small remaining amount still occuring but tiny in comparison hops. Now with a power shot to those targets it fires it right back at lightning speed and not in the air and I am no longer nervous of hitting those targets.

I believe the problem is that Stern have taken the lean forward out of the design and make it now vertical and the rivot is too low so with that combination encourages the ball to follow a upwards trajectory = airballs.

My apologies on the price but it is made at Shapeways so you guys in the US avoid the heavy postage fees (from Aus) and it is made of stainless steel.

screen-capture-4 (resized).png

I had designed and made available plastic wedge prior to this design which was an improvement compared to the standard but needed additional target foam to be a little more effective, but the above is a much better option.

I can design a metal version if people want it?

yes happened to me and even though out of warranty our local distributor replaced but I am still using my beefed up version - check out my post on this link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/57#post-3694640

awesome, glad it worked for you, back to playing the game quickly

yes that would be me with the wedges and then the re-designed target brackets, feedback to me has been positive but none posted on pinside yet and very very rarely get ball hop but that is me and hopefully has helped others. I ask other people that purchased to share their feedback as well - positive, negative, constructive...

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-v2-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace

yes I have been a bit slack there.

thanks for the support PinMonk and others

for me and others it heavily reduces from a big airball (half the playfield and high) every 1-2 games to
now
1 little ball hope off the side of the left hand target if you hit the side sometimes once in every 15-20 games

so not a total "elimination" and much more than a mere "minimise" but the little hops are very small maybe an inch and rare and the 1 in 15-20 games is probably worse case, very rarely get them. BUT a square on power shot will return the ball back to you fast which tells me that the angle of the bracket is making a big difference.

you can't go any further as you are limited but the stern target design with the slot as the slot is already at it's maximum near the bracket bend,

and it almost eliminates the airballs but it is a big statement to say this or any other guard stops airballs totally, but for me a few others that have reported back say it is a big difference.

I came up with swappable flippable bats 2 years ago, avoiding carrot flipper bats but within 5 minutes I can swap out a set of bats turning it from 3" to 3 1/8" to even 2 7/8" for a comp or kids etc. the shaft is installed and then the bats screw down from the top side on to the square drive and nothing needs to be adjusted and you are good to play. Sadly people don't like DIY kits or the screw in the top.

I personally wouldn't be changing the playfield or brackets.

thanks heaps for chiming in and giving your honest feedback PinMonk and am glad that they made an improvement which I was getting worried that no one was reporting back, thanks heaps for the feedback but also what you do on pinside as often see you offer alot of help for people especially the noobs.

as for my theory and results show it is the target design that is the issue, so the ball protectors never sat well with me as they are taming the problem instead of solving the target / air ball problem

as for the price, yeah I am sorry as shapeways makes up a huge part of the cost and it is a little dearer because these are 3d printed in metal

thanks for the support

I think the only advantage of the newer targets is they keep the target straight and the disadvantage of the older ones are they tend to then learn over after multiple hits, but the angle is the key, hence the re-work on the base bracket that I pursued.

hey conserx check out the link below
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest
everything is made at Shapeways and charge $15USD to Aus

Awesome, I appreciate the feedback and glad others are getting the same results

would be the bracket as it tilts the target 5 degrees and lifts the target up 2mm which then keeps the ball under the target rivet

great to hear, thanks for the feedback.

yes, just undo a few screws and swap the new bracket for the old and re tighten and you are back to business.

pg 77 post # 3817 has a few photos of the steps.

it is doable but just need to know what ones as currently only have 2 running game GB and CFTBL so don't have much to go to. send me a pm.

Schwaggs - did you buy the game new, or did you buy it possibly upgraded as a couple of people said they were going to put older stern targets in from say Iron Man era but did not have the slot so they would tend to then lean.

thanks for the feedback and great to hear

where does this go????

I had the hood (playfield) up today and then did a test game and the ball got stuck just after the launch lane up near marsh mellow man and the ball was stuck on a post laying in the orbit.

I have had a look around and can't work out where it is from - as not sure if it fell from a different location and rested in the orbit after the playfield was vertical

anyone know where this might be from - it is a grey hard plastic post with a screw going through the centre at with the grey post 32mm / 1 1/4" long

any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

IMG_4335 (resized).JPG

can you post a picture of the scoop area?

sometimes you get a multiball and then can add a ball into the mix so definitely put in 6 balls

yeah the scoop protector is lifting, flip up the playfield and see how the retainers that keep it snug are fitting, maybe they can bent and holding tight.

Hi Tony (@3pinballs)

That marco part is pretty much the same as what is in the game, the issue lays with the bracket connecting the target to the playfield

Check out the link - 3rd one along

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest

the wedges are cheaper but not as effective as the height of the target is a contributing factor that the wedges do not solve.

Basically my theory is that Stern changed the target design so it wouldn't roll side to side with a built in splint keeping the target vertical but cheapened out on the angle of the bracket going vertical and lowering it as well. This will not 100% remove air balls as the other factor is the pan angle of the hole machined in the playfield as a glancing blow to the side of the target will still create the odd hop but for me and many others greatly reduced air balls overall.

cheers

Jady

Great to hear and thanks for the feedback

I never had the air all protectors on a game so for you it is a personal choice, try the brackets and go from there

thanks for sharing 3pinballs

I am not sure how old your game is but it looks like Stern tried to fix the issue with bending the brackets to roughly 5 degrees - see below my v1 of the bracket on the lhs with the only difference with what is now available is the web as it was more to copy but since it is not pressed manufactured it isn't required.

As you can see with yours the angle is very similar to the swinks one which makes a small difference but the other major difference is the target slot height which I lowered by 2mm which effectively raises the target up 2mm. So when the ball hits the target the ball is now hitting below the target rivet and the stronger part of the target keeping the ball down. You will never remove totally the airballs as the target pan angle comes into play and that is cut into the game but it greatly removes them.

Thanks for support and giving them a try and glad it improved the game play.

target bracket (resized).jpg

yes these will always be available Shapeways operates, check out the link brandonx76

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-v2-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace

people have also been using on a few targets on Munsters with success as well.

sorry no video, did you check out the 7-8 photos on that strip as the others show underneath the playfield.

basically the bracket replaces the existing but raises the target 2mm and tilts it forward 5 degrees, it will make sense when you lift the playfield and dis-assemble and then re-assemble the target with the new bracket.

as for different colours, just different metal finish options, some people want them to look like there other brackets but the cheapest is fine and no it isn't visible from the top

glad they worked and understand the nerves in lifting the light board but all good, thanks for the support in trying

Yes that is normally as the big air balls are due to stern target design change where my approach returned the targets to a 90’s Bally Williams type lifting up and adding angle. Unfortunately the pan angle of the target still contributes to a few smaller air ball’s if you glance the side with some power / speed.

so you just wanted to share publicly that yours are better than mine, I am happy for you but a bit of poor form, and wonder if Brandon approved the comments to go up on pinside.

Just so others know the airballs come from the design of the targets and the cpr9999 option is an airball "retainer" as it is just keeping the airballs down and these should be made out of PETG instead of acrylic so they don't crack, as airballs will just now impact the retainer and the retainer will crack in time. Not very clear if these are acrylic or PETG and no mention of “these will not crack”

sorry brandonx76 that the brackets did not work to your expectation, I highly doubt the stainless wall / guide will break and crack over time, though putting a retainer on will still let the ball hit the side just a little higher.

I had a similar one do the same thing and it came from a mounting point under the ramp to stop the ball getting caught on the plastic. Still haven't fixed it as the whole ramp needs to come out.

thats the one, sorry for the poor explanation

yep totally agree, great to help others

just the other day I needed help with something a few people and donated 10minutes of there time to give some advice - it is what makes the pinsider community great

as for the plastic, what it does is if a ball can get up there it steers it to another location to then fall into the shooter lane

that post to the underside of the ramp on the rhs next to the rhs up ramp piece - stops balls getting ontop of the plastic under the ramp

mine has been off for 2 years and waiting for a break to remove the ramp

see the upside mounted post behind the hex post

screen-capture-1 (resized).png

This is a simple mod - calling it the - Library Steps Mod that sits on the plastic a little higher than the library on the left side using an available screw.

The ball is known to get a little bit of air and can go up onto this plastic and can occasionally get stuck in a small valley behind the library in which you then have to remove the glass to free up.

The library came stock on the Premium and LE's and those that were lucky to get a library as a part and installed onto their Pro will have it as well.
The Library Steps - v1 is for the Pro where the library is installed a little lower as it is adjustable to a degree and should suit your positioned install
The Library Steps - v2 is for the Permium and LE and possibly the Pro (but depends where you installed the library).

For me I installed the library so the 3 arches are centred over the 3 targets = which is a little lower than the Premium and LE so the Library Steps v1 which is adjustable suits my game and should fit onto to others as well.

Search - swinksgb - on Shapeways for all GB mods and the other Library Step Option.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksgb&sort=newest

I have also made this mod design FREE to download and print for yourself if you have a 3d printer - but it strictly not to be on-sold. You need to login into Shapeways to see the download button.

Hope it helps.

Library Steps - V1
IMG_4731 (resized).JPG
IMG_4732 (resized).JPG

Library Steps - V2 - which looks odd due to my lower library install
IMG_4729 (resized).jpg

ideally the library should of come with it shaped better to not have the problem but it is also a area that you can not see from the players perspective and a splash of colour could blend it in a bit better. There are only 2 lions in the front but steps alot in the front and a little at the sides.

- and it is FREE if you want to print your own -
main-qimg-70f0cc5a9d7263efec90c4b221738a5b (resized).jpg

still looks like it serves the same purpose. The original released game - the contacts shorted out on the mech