Just replace the coil stop. The "little nub" on the end of the coil stop should be solid, not moving. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=274

While you are at it, order a new $9 coil http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1993 just remember to cut the diode off the replacement coil as GB doesn't have diodes on coils.

I had a similar problem with my scoop. In my case, the screws holding the switch to the scoop loosened up to the point one of the screws fell out. Check and adjust the switch, should be an easy fix.

How about drilling the rivet out of the old screw and bolting it back on the apron with a small screw and nylon lock nut?

I suspect that bolt may not be sold separately, only with a new apron.

You can drill out the remaining part of the broken rivet from the bolt. Once you drill it out, use the drill bit or a vice grips to hold the old bolt steady while you remove the nylon lock nut. Reattach the bolt to your apron with a new screw and nut, replacing the rivet that broke off. Place the apron back on the PF and use the nylon lock nuts to bolt the apron back on as usual.

A #6 screw and nut should be small enough.

Node 8 board connections? You could try reseating the connectors on Node 8

I never had a problem with mine. Did you do anything to the game before this started or did it just start on its own?

Look in the scoop popper assembly for a foreign object (screw, light bulb, etc) that might be blocking the popper action.

Sounds like the only thing left is the wiring harness associated with slimer. Have you replaced those?

I have no idea why I suffered so long with the Scoleri Brothers targets. I tried the PBL springs but the targets never stayed up so I put it back to stock and suffered with them bricking shots and trying to hit them with a glance.

A friend of mine came over the other night and convinced me to try pulling the stock springs up and hooking them back on 4-5 loops up. They work like a charm now!

PSA - Don't suffer with bad drop targets. Make the change now!

Does it not come up at all or does it not stay up? When I tried the PBL springs, one of mine would pop up and drop immediately.

+1 - I have a cliffy on that side with metal side rails.

I believe he has a side rail protector for the metal rails if you would like to install one.

Try reflowing the solder joints on those optos. Sometimes the solder joints are not strong enough to hold the mass of the opto with all the vibrations in a typical pinball machine.

Funny thing, I ordered the angled target brackets as listed earlier in this thread. I went to install them and my game has angled brackets from the factory. The new DE brackets were the exact same angle as the stock brackets. Additionally, my stock targets have a reinforcing bar along the back of the target that would prevent installation of the DE brackets anyway.

No, I ordered the Data East brackets that someone suggested. Don't do that as they will not physically fit. They don't allow for the part of the target that fits in the slot (in the picture you linked).

However, the brackets on mine were already at an angle like in that picture. They were NOT 90 degrees. Mine is an LE from Sept 2016.

I bought it new. I'll have another look at them sometime and take some pictures.

The clock on my GB stopped keeping time. Turned out to be the 2032 battery. Apparently, all it does on Spike systems is keep the clock running and has nothing to do with the settings and scores.

Premuim/LE? The ball will flow straight through the subway if you don't have lock qualified.

Ah, sorry. Can't help you there

Move the outlane posts to the bottom-most hole. If thats not enough, you can try a larger rubber on that post.

This is most likely the problem. The switch triggers once as the ball hits the bottom of the scoop but does not close the switch enough once the ball settles in the scoop. The game will fire the solenoid, just in case, to clear the scoop even though the switch is no longer closed. When it does the “just in case fire to clear”, it will not score anything. It was a very common problem with that scoop.

I just slightly loosen the switch mounting screws and rotate the switch so the blade is further up into the scoop.

Agree, they are very frustrating. I messed with mine forever and never quite figured out a setting that allowed hitting them straight on.

Maybe try a drop of high quality synthetic lubricant on the exposed motor bearing and gearbox output shaft. However, that may not work if the problem is inside the gearbox.

Or this one: They are different on the left and right flipper mech. Check to see which flipper mech is missing before ordering.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-left-flipper-pawl-eos-switch-actuator.html

They are only needed to detect when the flipper bat is pushed back down by a ball. When the switch opens, the software will resume full power to keep the bat up.