(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

7 years ago


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  • 4,531 posts
  • 540 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by eyeamred2u
  • Topic is favorited by 151 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (7 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (7 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (7 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (7 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (7 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (7 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (7 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1646 7 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I purchased the two shooter lane protector pieces (sold separately) from Pinball Life and afterwards I learned that Cliffy has a 3 piece set. Would you spend more money and buy the Cliffy set instead?

Yes, definitely.

#1661 7 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

Thanks for the reply. I will work on that soon.

Coat the solder on each piece with flux, and it will flow better and yield a stronger joint.

#1664 7 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Art, could you please post a link (amazon) this product you like to use ?
There are tons of options, but not sure what best suits pinball needs.

You can buy mini-Mylar® sheets from Marco Specialties, which can be cut to fit most pinball applications...

-- Option 1 (5" wide): http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MMFT
-- Option 2 (22" wide): http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

My personal preference is to use a Sharpie fine-tipped "permanent" marker pen to mark the outline of the Mylar strip, cut the Mylar strip with scissors while the backing sheet is still in place, remove the Sharpie ink with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel (again, with the backing sheet still in place), and then apply the Mylar strip like a decal to prevent trapped air bubbles.

#1698 7 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Anyone have any tips for getting a back box bolt to thread? My Ghostbusters has only one bolt in currently as I can't for the life of me get it to thread cleanly on the right side. If I drop the back box it threads fine but when in the up right position it always binds up. It's home use so I've just been using one bolt but would be nice to get it secured properly so any tips are appreciated.
Only thing I've thought of is sanding out the hole in the cabinet to get a better angle but that seems a bit excessive.

There is always a small manufacturing tolerance for movement with the head in the upright position. If one of the bolts is binding, the bolt alignment is usually a little off center, so you'll need to shift the head to one side or the other, or even up and down, using the manufacturing tolerance to your advantage, to improve the alignment.

With this context in mind, remove the one bolt that is already secured, and lower the head. Run the bolts through each side to clean up the threads, and then raise the head again. Try to partially thread the first bolt at least a full turn. Move to the other side and try to partially thread the second bolt at least a full turn. If either bolt binds at all, IMMEDIATELY back the bolt out, and shift the head to one side or the other, or up and down, to improve the alignment. Then try again. Once both bolts are threaded at least a full turn without binding, shift the head again to improve the alignment one last time, and then slowly tighten both bolts.

Remember, if either bolt starts to bind, IMMEDIATELY back it out to prevent stripping the threads, and then start over again.

Let me know if this helps.

#1748 7 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

My first very functional and useful mod - just installed it tonight. I have been frustrated (as most of you) with the left and right drains, so I put together a modded outer drain rail piggyback piece. Fit nicely and it works absolutely great so far, so I think I got it just right. To do it, I needed to drill two holes on the playfield per side. Then I formed a stainless steel rail to match the factory rail size. Doing one at a time to test it.
My goal: Minimize the dreaded side drain. Not to eliminate it, but make it more difficult for the ball to drain as it does.

[snip]

Clean up the playfield with a vacuum cleaner, and give it a shot. It works beautifully. I can still get a ball into the drain, but most of the time, if it's not a direct hit, it will bounce back. Out of ten potential hits, it drained twice. Before, it would have drained ten out of ten times....And, with the extra height, it has stopped a few air balls that would normally go right into the drain.
I will now make the right side identically to the left side. The machine is much more fun to play when the game ball lasts a bit longer.
100% happy with this mod.

You could have just stretched a couple of rubber bands between the rails and outposts, and probably 2 out of 10 balls would have skipped over them to drain, producing the same result. Great for increasing ball times, and cheap and reversible, too.

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