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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

4 years ago

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  • 4,470 posts
  • 528 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1596 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

(update: 1.05) (adjusting the ball sensor switch) (refer to photo)
Step1: Test your ball switch be sure you have this problem. (mine started after installing lane protector)
(not the fault of the cliffy, but the cliffy raised the ball just enough so my switch did not make contact most of the time.
Step2: Try raising the switch - loosen the screws and raise up. (for me it was not enough)
Step 3: (only if needed)
(Turn machine off or you will get smacked by the auto launch)
Press wire (ball sensor) down from the top with one hand
Carefully adjust (bend) wire portion of switch upward by a millimeter using a needle nose.
Now the leaf will be pressed down more on the switches actuator button when a ball is present.

This sounds like you do not have the Cliffy's installed 100% correct. I have these in my TWD machine. It took me a while to get the fitment right and the ball should not be raised up. The best way I found to get them seated right, is put both side piece on, but not screwed tight and simply run the ball up and down the shooter lane until it pushed the cliffys away. This allows for the ball to be seated in the shooter lane property, meanwhile having the cliffys positioned as close to the ball as possible (without getting in the way of the ball = no raised ball).

#1602 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

just received my empty box for playfield replacement from Stern

Sooo, you have to remove everything from the playfield and ship it out to them and then rebuild it when you get the replacement??

I was about to pull the trigger on ordering a GB, but with all these issues, I dont see how I can. There is no way in hell I I would have the time or patience to tear down my brand new playfield...

Unreal these problems... Its not like these things are cheap!

#1605 4 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

No, you remove the playfield whole and intact. Send it off and they send you a complete, new playfield back.

Ohhh ok. Still annoying but not nearly as bad as what I had thought. Thanks for the explanation.

#1608 4 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

I pulled the trigger a couple of weeks ago on a Pro(1st machine ever). So far the only issues I have experienced are bad data cable in the topper(fixed), air balls (fixed with shielding), and just noticed chipped area where the shooter lane accepts the balls. This was after about 1200 games.
However my question to the rest is with the shooter lane damage and damage to where the balls leaves the playfield.. It's not huge at this point but I have turned down the trough power around 179. The ball just now floats to the shooter rod very nicely. However should I report this damage to Stern/distributor or go the route of fixing it on my own(normal wear-n-tear) ? And if I should just fix it, I know people have said a 'Cliffy' but I do not know where to purchase said version of this protector? Does anyone one have this one? I'm not sure where to go with this.
Are the slot switch protectors worth it as well? I'm sure I'll have more questions since like I said this is my first machine. Loving it so far.

Thanks for the info. I thought the air ball problem was on the Premium/LE's only? Where are the airballs on the GB? Also, can you show me where you have wear where the ball leaves the playfield? Do you mean on its way down to the ball trough? I noticed this on my TWD just recently.

In regards to the cliffys, I believe they are the "stern multifit shooter lane protectors."

I would just double check to be sure these are the correct fit but I would assume they are... When you go to order, you will need to send him an email saying what you want... I actually sent him an email today as well in anticipation of getting this game.

In regards to the switch protectors, I figured I would get those when and if I find wear happening. You may also want to pickup some of the Scoreli Brothers drop target protectors. You can search for them on Pinside as I saw some stuff on them the other day..

#1625 4 years ago

Can someone point me in the right direction for the airball protector for a Pro machine?


#1632 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I love the airball protector from oldpinguy ! Its well cut, polished shiny edge, a bit flexible so it wont break on you.
I love that its clear, I don't even notice it.

Thanks for the pics, ill order from him...

Thanks to the others for the help as well.

#1680 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

There are many outlane covers out there, and I have used PBL one.
It stops the rail bounce to the outlane.
However, I have one being made by the big guys, clear or with a nice decal, that not only achieves this, but also acts as a Sling plastic protector.
There are others out there, but I think Ill have one thats better.
Its stalled at cutting with a Backlog at Laseriffic, but should appear soon.
I hope to have the price much more reasonable, of course, than what is in the market.
I also had tested gluing a split clear mini post, and anchoring under this guide for more of a "Bounce" and it worked fine.
The Artwork covers the metal rail, and ads "mystery" to the ball movement..
Heres a pic.....

This looks nice.

Also, where is the PBL one? Cant find it on their website...

#1687 4 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Got my cliffy kit now where do these go?

The two on the top are the switch protectors.

I am assuming the others are the rail guard and shooter lane eject areas... Although they do look different. Perhaps the drain hole protector?

Can you take them out of the packaging?

#1689 4 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Where are the switches located?

These protect the switches that are under the ramps where the ball fall out from. Look under the ramps.

The other pieces I believe are the Scoleri Brothers drop target protectors and I think the longer one to the right is the drain hole protector..

Did you get the 3 piece rail guard/shooter lane protectors also?

#1690 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

These protect the switches that are under the ramps where the ball fall out from. Look under the ramps.
The other pieces I believe are the Scoleri Brothers drop target protectors and I think the longer one to the right is the drain hole protector..
Did you get the 3 piece rail guard/shooter lane protectors also?

Switch Protectors from Cliffy's website - to give you an example of how they sit..

cliffy (resized).jpg

#1786 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Amazon. link »

Looks like good stuff.

Can I assume this is very easy to remove as well?

Ive heard a good deal of issues when trying to remove standard Mylar... Ive never given it a try myself but I would like to use this stuff on my pin...

I have a bunch of cling vinyl at home, but the problem with using it on the playfield is that it comes off with the ball rolling over it in higher speed areas...

#1787 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Oh, as a Public Service announcement, for myself and others, since the emails keep coming in:
1) There may be a protective film on your plastic to peel off. Simply use your finger nail near the edge, or at a hole.
(Im so sorry we dont stick labels on that say, "Peel here")
2) Shipping Issues. Its Holiday shipping time for everyone. Patience is a good thing.
Our shipping is first class free, Im sorry I cant offer priority mail free, or ask the post office to move your package faster.
Ill be happy to send priority, for $4.00 more, but please help me, all Black Friday vendors, with the knowledge we dont
control the post office, and it costs a lot more to get a package sorry overseas shipping cant be Free for overseas,
but I can raise the price, and include it then, if the illusion feels better.

Hahaha, who the hell cant tell that there is protective film on the plastic??? lol

1 week later
#1950 3 years ago
Quoted from PinScott:

I did last night & it worked great. I previously purchased the PBL replacement springs which are much shorter than the OEMs. Because I read of issues with using these, I decided to adjust the OEM springs. About 10 rings - try less if you are concerned. Very noticeable difference.

Can you tell me what issues you have read using the PBL replacements?

#1955 3 years ago

Interesting about the PBL springs. Thanks for the info guys...

#1962 3 years ago

In regards to the slimer issues, is this a problem with older playfields or are newer productions still having these issues?

I am about to pull the trigger on ordering a premium but some of these things make me nervous...

#1976 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Same here. I want a GB Premium bad but Stern acting like they could care less about these issues makes me too nervous to buy right now. It also doesn't help that I emailed them and ask them if they were going to address these issues and they never even had the courtesy to email me back. I even told them that I have bought two new pins recently from them. Oh well......

Well I know that Stern has been fixing a lot of other issues. I emailed my distributor to give a go ahead on a December or later build...

I do find it a bit hard to believe that Stern said its normal for Slimer to hit things on the way to the playfield.. I just wouldnt want that to wear on the Slimer plastic over time.

Does anyone know if and how to adjust Slimer if needed to avoid hitting things?

#1977 3 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Grr... I've been thinking about grabbing a premium as a xmas gift to the family, but holding out as all the issues have me nervous. I played a pro, thought it was tough but after a few games got the hang of it - I remember the ball hops and airballs were a little jarring. I just played a premium..... airball city - so much that my 14yr old daughter mentioned it as I was holding back my thoughts. Think I'm gonna have to wait & see if Stern fixes things or not. I'm not afraid to work on pins - heck I love shopping games & owned a early wozle..... I just don't want to have to try to fix poor design. Hope all you owners enjoy your games, but I really hope stern wakes up and starts addressing more than just ghosted inserts.

Were the airballs mainly from the main ramp side targets? Seems like people do have some fixes for that area...

#1980 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

The issues with the game, arent ones that can be addressed exactly in production.
Slimer hitting bracket.....Because of the distance of just a few mm when assembled, some
can have an issue. Solution for 98%, use a hex key and loosen grub screw, raise and tighten.
Scoleri Brothers Targets. Some get bricks. You can let it wear in, adjust the springs you have, mess
with replacement springs. Also a small amount if time, but engineering wise its working fine on so many, the
forum and this thread magnifies the issues. I spent all of 10 minutes to fix one target.
Air Balls. Myself and others have plastics from $20-$50 that fix most all concerns, from Ramp targets, inlane hopes, and any center Drain gap concerns. If this bothers you, there is a fix.
I think thats it, and from the perspective of messing with the game for months, now that the playfield issue seems to be resolved, There seems to be minimal worries, and many solutions....
Perfect? No. Can they make it Perfect? they try, but not likely.
Still Normal in the world of making almost anything.
Still worried? Buy used, or wait to visit a distributor that you can see, touch, and play the game you get
kicking all the tires till you are happy.
But if you want one...IMO, these last few bumps are minor.

This is great to see. Thanks! This puts some concerns to rest.

I think the problem that people have, at least for me, is that its not a rpoblem of not wanting to fix problems that occur, but that they are occurring on brand new, expensive machines. That is my main issue... If something breaks down the road, different story...

#2033 3 years ago

Can someone please tell me what size washers are used to lift Slimer up?

#2035 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I couldnt find them as washers in a hardware store, but they would be shooter lane washers.
If you loosen the grub screw, and raise to the level you wish, you can tighten without washers,
and mine is holding fine for 4 washers.

Oh great to know...

#2038 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

edit: I think you are referring to oldpinbuy's post about sliding the slimer arm up a bit and tightening the "set screw" aka grub screw.
No washers needed and in my opinion preferred to leave washers out. The set screw locks it down tight and wont move.
Where are you putting the washers ?
is it a premium or pro?.
I've got washers and could check on a premium.

Would you by any chance be able to show me a picture of this "Grub Screw"?

The washers I was referring to were in the link in my original post about the washers. There were pictures showing how the washers were installed to raise slimer up. That seemed pretty easy. My machine is scheduled to arrive Friday/Monday, so I am just getting everything in order in case I have any issues.. Premium.

#2039 3 years ago

This is what I was looking at:

5cb4f75c7cbbb2b68090cff22e8e4ef407096099 (resized).jpg

#2041 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Theres the pics you need.....Certainly add the washers if you feel the need....every game has such slight differences.
You can also lower the Captive ball Plate, by removing the 3 washers as well.
I have received my outlane and sling shot protectorproto production samples. I will be installing and testing tomorrow, and if all OK, will share photos, and start taking orders. With and without decals, Im expecting $29 including shipping, and the 3 piece set to be about $45
shipped, helping with lower costs.
I believe it to be the best choice out there for Premium and LE.....more to come.....


#2042 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Theres the pics you need.....Certainly add the washers if you feel the need....every game has such slight differences.
You can also lower the Captive ball Plate, by removing the 3 washers as well.
I have received my outlane and sling shot protectorproto production samples. I will be installing and testing tomorrow, and if all OK, will share photos, and start taking orders. With and without decals, Im expecting $29 including shipping, and the 3 piece set to be about $45
shipped, helping with lower costs.
I believe it to be the best choice out there for Premium and LE.....more to come.....

Also, maybe a dumb question, but what are the sling protectors for exactly? Are people getting airballs from those too?

Last one, is there a reason for wanting to lower the Captive Ball Plate? Sorry for all the questions...

#2045 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So is the grub screw the one on the side of the round barrel thing?
If so, then how do you raise slimer ?

I believe it is. Sounds like you just unscrew and raise up slightly and screw back in.

#2046 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

The Sling Protectors accomplish 2 primary goals. First, but the outlanes, this Plastic is high enough to catch the lane skips, as others, but "larger" to help with the 45 degree outlane drains. In addition, these wrap around the full Sling shot Plastic.
This protects the whole plastic from Chipping, especially when this might happen in Multi Ball.
Other Products are not wrapping far enough the Bottom corner, where slings always chip.
Lowering the Captive ball Plate and/or Raising Slimer, can keep his Butt from Dragging across the metal, sometimes producing Phantom hits.

I see. Thanks for the info. You have been very helpful!

#2048 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Ok cool I'll give it a go.
Does code effect how slimer moves or anything? Currently on 1.05 if I upgrade will it change anything with slimer.

I am not sure. Hopefully others can chime in...

#2064 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

That would truly suck.
Makes me realize how bad I dodged a bullet on this game.

I believe they sent him an older playfield. Pretty sure it was him that said on another thread that it was a build date of October.

I have one coming to me on Monday and reading all this stuff makes me nervous...

#2098 3 years ago

I received my premium last night and it came loaded with 1.12 from the factory. Everything was going fine until all of a sudden it is firing the subway lock mech over and over as well as giving me an error code. Also seems confused with the flipper as when starting a new ball it automatically chooses the PKE choices for me and fires the ball.

Anyone seen this or have any suggestions? Thinking of reloading the code to see if it will fix it.. Powering off did not help.

#2101 3 years ago
Quoted from lapean111:

You have a switch that is gapped incorrectly or stuck somewhere. Go into the switch test and bang the playfield and see what happens. Sounds like it might be one of the subway switches.

Switch test didnt do much but it gave me an alert that there is a subway lock malfunction.

Not really sure what to do.

#2102 3 years ago

Talked to Stern and they are sending me Opto replacements. Think its the 3rd opto not registering and it throwing off a lot of modes... annoying...

#2112 3 years ago

I noticed these weird marks on my insert and cant quite make out what it is exactly. Almost looks like scratches either under the mylar or on the insert itself. Not sure its a big enough deal to complain about. Was somewhat hard to take pics but here you go. Some angles you see it and some you dont.

IMG_0077 (resized).JPG

IMG_0076 (resized).JPG

IMG_0078 (resized).JPG

IMG_0079 (resized).JPG

#2115 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

You are seeing an issue in the plastic, and while it should not be there, IMO, It is "Normal" for this game.

Quoted from hoby1:

Normal crazing. Happens during the sanding process when it opens fissures in the insert At the very minimum you can rest a sure the clear has a good bite on the insert and should not ghost

Thanks guys. Its slightly annoying as you can see it with the lights on, but sounds like its something that wont get worse, so im fine with it... everything else seems good on the field...

2 weeks later
#2233 3 years ago

Anyone have a fix for airballs off the ramp (not the targets)? Besides raising the height? Not a huuuge issue since they always land perfectly in the back left corner and roll out but...

#2244 3 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

again, easy trick, just DIY with a piece of plastic you'll cut just as you want/need
and so strangely, mine didnt have ball jumping there UNTIL a upper the slope (...) and now got balls jumping !

Dont think that would work. It seems to happen from hitting the ramp lip somewhere. Not sure how I could cut plastic to stop it from hopping out of the ramp into the corner.

#2278 3 years ago

I changed my spring on the autolauncher and I noticed that whenever the autolauncher is used, the ball will not orbit but instead gets sent down to the PKE letters. Can anyone confirm that this is normal? Seems that the gate is intentionally staying closed to not let the ball through. For example, a "saved ball" will get autolaunched......

#2296 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I'd like to know the answer to this as well. When exactly is the gate supposed to be open, and when is it supposed to be closed?

Can anyone chime in on when the gate is supposed to be opened and closed?

As I was saying, it opens for the plunge, but seems to close on my machine for all autolaunches. I have never seen the autolaunch perform an orbit. Is this normal?

#2298 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

The ball should go all the way around the orbit from an auto-plunge if the skill shot is still available. If you hit something and disable the skill shot then you drain and get an auto-plunge the gate will not open and it should drop into the pops.

Hmmmnn, ill have to test while the skill shot is still available.

Is there any other time that the gate will be opened for the autolaunch? Thanks for your input...

#2301 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Not sure on that one. Maybe if a mode was running during that time and the orbit is lit up. I would assume that the gate would be open. There is a switch in the orbit behind Stay Puft that is responsible for opening the gate. Sometimes you'll get zingers that will miss the switch and the gate won't open. Or you'll hit the switch the gate opens then the ball hits something funky and rattles around back down into the pops. It's super important that you have your game leveled and pitched properly. I had some problems with this and I eventually got rid of it by perfectly leveling side to side and running around 6.8-7 degree pitch.

What im talking about has nothing to do with not making it through the orbit. The ball clearly hits the gets and bounces back then down to the pops.

The real question is when that gate is supposed to be open and closed...

#2302 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It's easy to test it. Just do a full plunge and don't flip. Most likely, the ball will drain before the hitting one of the skill shots and before the ball saver runs out.

Huh? My issue is with the autolauncher, not the plunge...

2 months later
#2627 3 years ago

Hey guys,

I decided to take off the Ecto Goggle reflector piece since it was easier to clean this way.

My problem is that I cannot get the screws back in due to the plastic above them. At this point I believe I have stripped them....

Anyone have any ideas for this? I am thinking perhaps just zip tying where the screws were to hold it on...

#2629 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Put a nut and a bolt there?

Might be hard to do but not a bad idea. The area is tight to get at..

2 months later
#3202 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

Have a minor issue where my left slingshot sensor (not sure what you call it) keep coming out from behind the rubber and sitting in front of it. Anyone have a solution to this? I am not able to lower my sling rubber as there is no room between the other rubber that is there...


#3230 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Switch the rubbers around .
Put the small rings on top and the long sling rubber on the bottom

AAhhhhh, clever. I will give this a shot...

#3231 3 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

50% of the time my ball kicks out of the left scoop when shot into.
does anyone think that putting drop dead foam on top inside of scoop would help?

This happens to me as well. I compared it to the right scoop and you can clearly see the height difference between the two (left scoop is much shorter in depth). Its almost as if the ball is going into the scoop so fast that it hits the metal bottom and bounces back out. I have been meaning to put some sort of padding or something to soften the impact.

Anyone else have this happen?

1 week later
#3287 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

I did, but after adjusting the switch to bend a bit lower, it seems fine. Amazing what a couple of millimeters can do on these things!

Hmmnn, so you are saying its the switch? Im not sure. If im not mistaken, anytime the ball goes into that left scoop there is a few second delay before its kicked out. My ball hops in and out right away often like its bouncing out, not being ejected out. If that makes sense...

#3317 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Yep, the exact same thing happened to me. It seems that if the switch is not pressed down enough, the scoop will immediately spit the ball out without awarding anything. Adjusting the switch fixed the issue for me.

Interesting. I will take a look. Thanks for the info..

2 years later
#4304 1 year ago

Hey guys,

I know this has been talked about a lot in the past but I have forgotten...

What are the fixes to make the ball go around the orbit from launch or autolaunch? I find it often hits something around the Stay Puft guy and not get around the loop.

4 months later
#4340 12 months ago

Hey guys, just had my first real issue with GB.. of course within the first 10 minutes of having company over.

Says Node Board 9 Failure.

Could this be software related or am I in for buying a new node board?

#4342 12 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

First, was the Service bulletin upgrades already done on this machine? If not, vibration can cause this failure:
Second, check the connections to the board first, both two and from.

Thank you!. I just checked again and its saying that Node Board 9 is not found... So perhaps something came loose.

I appreciate the help on this.

#4346 12 months ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

You will get this message if someone does the wrong upgrade, like using the premium upgrade on the pro. If this happens just run the proper upgrade.

I dont think thats it as it wasnt a problem after i originally updated the system.

#4347 12 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

First, were the Service bulletin upgrades already done on this machine? If not, vibration can cause this failure:
Second, check the connections to the board first, both two and from.

And yes, I did have these already done to my machine. I guess its time to contact Stern...

#4348 12 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

And yes, I did have these already done to my machine. I guess its time to contact Stern...

Actually, im an idiot lol. I had the parts for service and I never installed them!!! ugghh

#4350 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It possible, then, that the diode has come loose from the node board from vibration, cutting off power. Stern can help you diagnose.

Yes, it is definitely loose. I checked it. It feels like its about to break off. It was leaning really far over when I spotted it last night and when I bent it back with intentions of putting the spacer in, it felt like it was going to break off...

#4351 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It possible, then, that the diode has come loose from the node board from vibration, cutting off power. Stern can help you diagnose.

One thing to mention, the Node Board is showing a red light but not the green light like the rest.

#4353 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Sounds like the diode from the service bulletin is your issue, then. If you have soldering skills you can likely fix it yourself.

haha, that is the challenge in itself for me. Im not very good but I guess at this point it couldnt hurt!

Thanks again for the help.. very appreciated.

#4355 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Borygard here on pinside repairs node boards. Might want to see if he can do it for you, or if he has a swap service.

Its all good. I ordered another one.

I assume I will need to reinstall the code to program that new node?

#4357 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It should automatically program the new node board when you power on. Just make sure the dip switch settings are right first.

Sounds good, thanks again!

#4360 11 months ago

Have another issue with my machine. All of a sudden my left Scoleri Brother target will not stay up. Comes up and shoots right back down. Its not machine gunning... I took a quick look and I didnt see the drop ledge broken or anything out of the norm. When I do it manually to raise the target with my finger, it stays up.

Seems strange. Any ideas?

3 weeks later
#4368 10 months ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

Has anyone had issues with their plunger not performing very well out of the box (if you recall). The auto plunger seems to send the ball around most times relatively easily. A full manual plunge often gets caught somewhere preventing the ball going around smoothly.
Initially upon inspection the plunger appeared to hit the ball right of center. I tried adjusting the plunger (moved basically all the way left, and a little up) to get it what I thought was center but the ball seems to still struggle. I also don't like the fact that the plunger assembly is now covering a small portion of the artwork rather then staying inside the black box of the vinyl print.
Any suggestions?
What tests can I do to rule out certain things?
Is it better to hit the ball slightly higher?

I was under the impression that was just a bad design from the factory. It could be hitting the gate around that bend or other parts around there by Stay Puft.

#4380 10 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Did stern change the design of node boards 8 and 9? I realize they are the same part number. Reason for asking. Error message: “node board 9 not found” on start up. Using diagnostics node 9 not initialized (Only led on is red=constant). So I look at the pdf file on sterns website to add a foam or whatever piece to lessen vibration on a diode so it wont break. Well neither of my node boards have the d9 shown on the photos on their pdf.
Marco doesn’t have these in stock. I imagine no one does and they all just order as needed from stern?
Only had this 3rd hand machine a few months, looked at the manual, looked in the back box, cabinet also.... so where do they hide the damn fuses? Are they inside the power supply... main board has all power leds as well as Rx Tx, etc all looking like they should.
Any thoughts or pointers regarding this appreciated.

I just had this problem and I needed a replacement board. I bought it from Pinball Life.

#4381 10 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Pic of node 9 and node 8. As you can see D9 does not look anything like what is pictured in sterns pdf file for securing the diode.[quoted image][quoted image]

I dont think thats the right node board. It looks different as you have said..

EDIT - Actually, I think it is but looks like the diode broke off? It seems to be missing compared to this image.

Node 8 (resized).png
#4383 10 months ago
Quoted from EdHess:

Perhaps you didn't realize that I posted pics of both node 8 board and node 9 board. Node 8 board has all leds functioning. I asked the question because node 8 board while looking identical is not having any issues or errors. If I am reading the printing on the boards correctly in the 2 two photos I posted, there is actually a component in the place marked as d9 on both boards as you can see. My photo is more closeup than others posted. Mine do not show anything to lead me to believe anything has broken off, which is why I asked.

Sorry, I did not realize they were pics of two different boards. That is strange that they look different.

1 week later
#4388 10 months ago

Ok something is driving me a little crazy on this machine. Almost every time when the ball comes out from the PKE ramp wireform, it has spin on it, hits the playfield and spins right into the outlane.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

1 week later
#4392 10 months ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

I've read in this forum people getting air balls cause of cliffys on scoleri drop target. But what if you don't have any cliffys? I really don't like having field goals and stay puft catching it in the belly.

Ive never had that problem on my machine with the cliffys there but I do hear people say that..

#4394 10 months ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

Can you show a small video of it happening?

Funny enough, last night I gave it a wax and decided to check the level.. was far off. I guess when I moved and put them in after storage, I forgot to level. I am guessing maybe that was my issue.

If it keeps happening, I will put up a video..

#4396 10 months ago
Quoted from gk_usa:

I was researching my right orbit problem and came across this post (post number 2546) that may help you if you still have this problem.

Thanks. I just took a look. I will look into tweaking that if needed still..

4 weeks later
#4415 9 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

This is most likely the problem. The switch triggers once as the ball hits the bottom of the scoop but does not close the switch enough once the ball settles in the scoop. The game will fire the solenoid, just in case, to clear the scoop even though the switch is no longer closed. When it does the “just in case fire to clear”, it will not score anything. It was a very common problem with that scoop.

Hmmnn I think I need to do this as well. So essentially, the switch needs to be bent upward to register better?

#4417 9 months ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Push down at the base of the switch arm and lightly bend the tip of the arm upwards with another finger. I’ve had to do this with a number of switches to get them registering properly. It can take some time to get the alignment exactly right. If this adjusting doesn't seem to work, and if the switch is installed/wired properly (check underneath the playfield and correct as necessary), you may need to replace the switch.

Gotcha, thanks. I have a leaf switch tool that should come in handy for this.

2 months later
#4438 6 months ago

I have an issue on my premium where the left slingshot sensor constantly comes out from behind the rubber and sits on the outside. Is there a way to extend that piece to this doesnt happen?

I have tried to remedy this by switching the placement of the slingshot rubber to lower, but this causes the ball to constantly be lifted off the playfield when bouncing back and forth.


#4440 6 months ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Mine almost popped out as well when on the upper position. Moving the rubber to the lower position solved it for me. Never had any problems with it, although it made the slings a lot more sensitive / active.

Yea when I moved it to the bottom teh balls lift off the playfield each time they get thrown by the Sling.

Is there a setting for the magnaslings? Perhaps if I turned it down it wouldnt lift them up anymore. It was driving me crazy hearing them lift and drop each time.

3 months later
#4450 3 months ago
Quoted from evileye:

I never installed those on mine because I read some people were catching major air balls with them.

Ive read that also but i hardly ever get airballs from them.

#4451 3 months ago
Quoted from izboy:

I’ve got a long post, and I hope there’s somebody out there who can help me. I just bought a Ghostbusters machine that has a lot of mods. It was working fine but I think something got jostled during transport. When I turn it on I get a tech alert saying overcurrent protection and then you go into the menu and it says it’s occurring through note board eight and then talks about the right sling.I have attached photos showing the tech alert and included a list of mods that the game came with. It does have every stern manufacture upgrade that has come out. I’m not super tech savvy I just am looking for some guidance. I have talked with Stern, I have replaced all the lights associated with the slingshots and I have borrowed a different note board eight and replaced it to make sure that the node board eight is not bad.
‪Mods include:‬
‪Color DMD‬
‪Full cliffy protector set‬
‪NO GHOST ACRYLICS Speaker Grill Insert‬
‪Custom Book stacking mod‬
‪Stern Lasercut plasma gun side rails‬
‪Custom Ghostbuster logo Backbox Hinge set‬
‪Speaker Light Kit 10‬
‪River of slime plastic pop bumper mod‬
‪ECTO 1 Lighted Car MOD‬
‪Stern TOPPER‬
‪Arcade Keepup Dimming Backbox Kit‬
‪TILT Graphics Sideblades‬
‪Ghostbusters Scolari Brothers Drop Target Spring Fix Kit‬
‪Shaker Motor Kit‬
‪Custom Coin door magnets‬
‪GB Keychain‬
‪PerfectPlay Silicone Rubbers‬
‪Flipper Fidelity Complete Stern Speaker System With 10" Woofer‬
‪PinGuard Cabinet, Felt and nylon Leg and bolt Protectors‬
‪Leg Leveler Rubber Castors - Set Of 4‬
‪PinGuard SPIKE Shooter Lane Protector‬
‪8-Way Power Splitter Board‬
‪Metal Hex Spacer (Ramp Fix)‬
‪BriteButtons Illuminated Flipper Button (Purple)‬
‪Gozer Action Figure‬
‪Pinmonk Full color LED Gels + I added my own for the center lights‬
‪Die Cut Ball-Drop Protective Playfield Mylar‬
‪Ghost Trap Flipper Bat covers‬
‪Ghostbusters Pinball Backboard Illumination‬
‪Ghostbusters Pinball Slimer Pinballs - Green with Pink‬
‪Ghostbusters Pinball Scoop LED‬
‪Swapped out to lower pressure plunger and auto launcher spring‬
‪Extended Sling Protector with Center Post‬
‪cp3r's Airball Protector‬
‪Ghostbusters Mirror Replacement Mod‬
‪Replaced with Williams/Bally heavy-duty inner Leg Bracket‬
‪Stern Yellow flippers‬
‪TerrorDog figures‬
‪Ball Baron Ninja balls‬
‪Added Stern service bulletin for the node boards‬
‪Fixed the left flasher issue that can short out‬
‪Custom Instruction cards‬
‪Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly‬
‪Ghostbusters Upgrade Kit - center post‬
‪Replaced with Stern Lockdown Bar and Receiver Assembly‬
‪Pinstadium lights kit‬
‪Ghostbuster logo Plunger Plate‬
‪Swinks Target Wedge - 4 Degree mod‬
‪Stern Firehouse and sign‬
‪Handpainted custom slimer covers‬
‪Custom Subway car mod‬
‪Yoyokopter pink outlane guards‬
‪Yoyokopter ghost trap mod‬
Any help and insight would be greatly appreciated
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

As mentioned, that node board is prone to failure. Was the service bulletin stuff done to the node boards? If not, you most likely need a new board.

#4453 3 months ago
Quoted from nlrobert:

I need help trying to identify this part. It's the metal plate that covers the captive ball area in the center of the playfield. I've included a picture. I cannot find this part or part number listed anywhere in the manual. It appears to be a standard part across the Pro, Premium, and LE models. Does anyone know the part number and where I can find one?
[quoted image]

Id give Stern a call.

#4456 85 days ago
Quoted from izboy:

I have a quick question that I wanted to see if somebody could help me out with. My Nunzios glory brother pops up and then seems to pop right back down. Is there a quick way to adjust this?

I also had this issue and my problem was the spring that pushed the target onto the ledge. It just needed some stretching then it was working again.

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