On One of the review threads, is a 10 minute adjustment for slimer.
Factory installed gap needs adjusting.
I would imagine, as they learn this at the factory, they will adjust.

No help on the flipper, although others have mentioned power issues, and leaned toward EOS Switch.

Im sure plenty of answers will come.

No they shouldnt be there, Yes, perfection is what is always wanted.
Stuff happens.

Great and Easy Fix!

Send to Stern, or Jared!

I dont find an issue with sharing as a community, issues a new game may have.
It helps Stern, it helps all of us.

What I find hard is the process of sharing these issues with the expectation, low ticket or high ticket items
must be nothing less than perfect.

In a consumption based society, where in general people buy, as opposed to themselves working in a factory and making,
we have a very high standard of expectation. Not unreasonable to have, just maybe better to know it doesnt always work this way.
Iphones, auto recalls, planes for the military...all much higher volume, higher ticket items, with massive funding, and yet, flaws in production.

It comes down to people, and people inspect, do they blink, sneeze, get distracted, and miss something?
Sure? Id love to hear a solution for this, other then Robotic camera inspection.

Every product Ive made, imported, or direct manufactured has a human element.
Every consumer wants Perfect, and complains if it isnt.
Every complaint is magnified against all those that were reasonably perfect.
Very Very hard to find perfect people to do perfect jobs, regardless of pay.

So perhaps constructive complaints that help everyone is better, than just complaints that perfection isnt achieved for
the money spent.

It will always happen, and input helping solve should be a Positive testament to the Pinside community.

I played my first games tonight at the Pinball Lounge!
What a Blast!

Brutal, fast, tons to do, and a great music score!
What a loaded pin for a Pro!

No issues with slimer, no issues with balls jumping over lanes.

Kurt and Ed installed a Post save in the middle....helps a lot!

For the low level wire out lanes...the post/rubber adjustment helps, but I am likely going to try the smallest of a clear tube to try and add to the lane guide, just to get some more bounce, and fix any possibility of the ball jumping.

For a new game, likely some of the best first release code Ive seen...
We had something happen that awarded many events and multiball, and the light show, music was over the top!

A great challenge, at the same time being Fun!

Feels like a Classic winner to me!

The rail jumps we had seemed to come at an angle and be at the impact with the immediate front of the wire guide.
Is this how others are seeing?

How about a clear rubber dot?
or a quick dot off a glue gun?

Should be enough to stop the ball from becoming air borne.

No confusion. "I" had no issues.....I didnt consider one time on a bunch of games, an "issue".
"We" had jumps, refers collectively to the guys I was playing with, and then in conversation later
that evening with others who went to the open house. I was referring with "we" to mean collectively my friends. Collectively "we" had issues.

Taken out of context, with assumptions, perhaps confused you.

No, I am not, but my sincere thanks for checking my posts for perspective, accuracy, content and semantics.

A heavier wire from can be made and milled thinner where it goes into wood.

I look at the wire issue differently.
As far as I have heard, it is not on all games, but some....No one is answering this, or expected to quantify.

However, it may not be a "Stern design" issue, but more an annealing process of the wire itself from the factory that
supplies them.

Say you are Stern and this wire form you have used for many games, and have bought tens of thousands the last few years.

The factory may be buying spools of wire to form and harden.
In the course of manufacturing the original spool, its possible to have inconsistencies.
Why? Competitive world....Cheap wins the game. No one is stress testing, or analyzing a large wire spool at each point,

Well lets say the spool is fine, but the fabrication, and the "hardening" of the metal has issues.
I dont know how they choose to fabricate this piece, but I do know how to harden and soften metals.
But under a basic few, some failed the hardness test, as we see now in bending.

I wouldnt believe with all the testing they "missed this" or chose to ignore, just something that may not have happened in say a dozen games through the year of testing and development.

We here, are aware through posts and pictures, that some have this issue....not all, but some.
As we all slow to watch an accident on the side of the road, we by our nature, inflate this issue as either purposeful, negligent, or other on Sterns part.

I guess I dont see it this way....it falls under "shit happens".

But we are spending hard money, and todays view is it must be "perfect".
Gosh knows, people try.

An analogy. I have been Jewelry manufacturing for almost 40 years. When I started, Engagement rings meant 6-12 total choices in the market. They were perfected over the years, and profit margins allowed this.
Today, a bride wants a one-of-a kind, personal CAD created Engagement Ring. Today, Perfect is the only acceptable
result. I pretty much have given up, because Perfect is too hard to do, and anything less, is an emotional drama, not unlike
a pin purchase.

What my point is, it happens, worry less about who to blame, and know, IMO, that Stern will Fix.
Maybe, like others...not perfect, but I believe, sincerely, that that is the goal they always are striving for.

For me, I am glad this isnt a Forum where the last game made was 20 years ago....Ill take a GB, even with a few bugs,
and be very grateful that a Team of people have jobs that allow this to be made, and us to enjoy!

I agree with you, my friend...this is definitely a "cost move".
What I wonder, and by no means am I advocating this at all, if a customer tests the movement in all directions
and it accidently "snaps". This would sound like a test failure, and a reason for a replacement.

I also think over time, they might likely reconsider this position.

Sorry to hear....it doesnt help to say, "it happens", or "mine has no switch issues".

Your issues are real and should be shared, but equally to share is a lot of games received, their are none.

The LE I received today, has raised wire out lanes, and apparently a thicker guide on captive ball.

Im sure issues will pop up...they always do, but a bunch of stuff right out of the box, shouldnt happen, nor does it appear
to be the norm.

Who knows....I may have to eat my own words.

Mine did, upon request......Asked to check everything!

The rails are raised now in production, as the LE received is just fine.

I think some of the LEs shipped to Overseas still had low sitting guides. Earlier Production. The game I have has the total height of about 5mm off the playfield.

I bought the Laser Cut Cover set, just in case, but still plan on installing for appearance as well.

My wife was playing today, and thought the same thing....

old code?

I posted on a separate thread, but just to share, I had crazy slimer action, that was a result of the board connection coming a little loose. It wasnt visibly apparent, I thought I had a boom/set screw issue, but much like TWD, a shaker may be the culprit.
Re seat.....and back to normal.

I havent done this yet...should you or anyone else see a way to raise slimer a mm or 2, please do share.
Also, has anyone seen the LED inside? Im guessing its on a board.

I ask as Slimer is extremely UV reactive! nothing else in the game is, and Im wondering if I can get that "glow".

Thank you. I couldnt get the screw loose, but will try again.

You have a wonderful solution, that needs to be marketed.

I hope youll share a file, offer to a manufacturer, or sell them yourself.

I am definitely interested in supporting this and owning one.

How can this happen?

Yes, I just adjusted and tweaked slings further.....found my sweet spot!
Coils at soft did cut down airballs, and I think the last piece, the target and ramp cover plastic, will fix all,
or close enough.

I believe the excess air balls have been tamed with solutions!

Set mine at 40-45 as well for Sling Power, Ive had no issues with the Pops.

Im so sorry issues are occurring for others......

Just finished a bunch of games with the wife!

First pin I have ever had that has given her the "Just one more Game" Feeling! Yes! Took a lifetime!

No More Airballs, stuck balls, and cheap drains!

Playing like it should....smooth and fast!

Happy household here playing away!

Dont know.....its eyeballed.....old school......

I wish .....She doesnt like learning any rules....just what she calls, "fun".

44 years, more pins then I have in my profile, this is the first game she asks to play with me, play on her own,
or simply tell guests we had over from England...picking up my last bulb effort..That its fun!

Rare compliment from someone who has had no interest before.

Cant say everyone will feel this way, but so far, havent had any guests disagree....(or they are being polite)

Airballs, which is being addressed.

Issues are clear coat adherence issues.

Amazing game after that!!!

Sadly, youll need to repeat that every freakin 5 posts, as it wont get read......watch!

Those are some mighty fine washers, Paul! Seriously!

Working on em......

No idea yet.

I have our friend in Europes Template, a thinner, longer one that anchors on the left, and a hybrid longer one.
Depending on this, might factor into graphics.

Ill know something hopefully in a week. I prefer not to abandon it, but politely request no PMs at this time.

Heres a fun one.

No issues on toobin insert. Left my glass off for 3 days working on it and the white lines on both edges are now there.

45 days in.

Humidity, with the glass off?

To cover the inserts that ghost, and the long one for the shooter lane to cover chips!

Center the sticker in the middle of the playfield...covers all ghosted inserts!

Thanks for sharing the new "program"!

Mine did so, and the cable plug came loose from the board on the slimer mech.... re-seated it.

Very Nice Work!!!

I think it's more like a slot machine....it teases you by showing the biggest winners, but are coded to payoff on the lower values.??

Just wanting to share my issue that has kept me busy all weekend and is almost done.

My game, with the playfield in the full vertical position, all alone, decided to drop off the internal rails.
Not only did I have a cow! But a goat and a chicken too!!!
I couldnt move it after lifting and angling....having been here before with B/W before.

Friends came by, and what we discovered was the playfield guides were loose enough to literally unscrew by hand, and remove first. Equally the matching rail posts on the playfield, on both sides, were never tightened...about 4 turns to tighten.
Adding to this, the playfield actually has enough room on the side, to never hit mirror blades with plenty to spare.
It happened a second time, while we were working on the damage to many parts below the playfield.

In this regard, Ill have a quick thread up to ask for some help identifying part(s) that fell into the playfield we dont know where they go.

So, just me sharing, but just in case, the next time you have the playfield up, check your rails on the cabinet and its pin sliders on the playfield for wiggle room, and take note at the distance you have....This is rare, I dont expect anyone else to have this issue, but prefer to share so others might take a minute to be sure.

Adding special "ghosting" glue?

Shirt stripes are suppose to be yellow and blue and not blue and yellow on Tuesday, assembly day?

Seriously, no idea...maybe the guys coming home from work can guess.

Well Im the Dumb ass! Im looking at the pics and not the video!

Ill have a limited test batch available on Thursday or Friday.
Production on first version will start immediately after that.

Working on a second version, with Ecto1 and decal, as well.

Not seeing what you see, but maybe some help.

If the flasher setting isnt working, then fix it manually.
I put a ghost, and then ended with a Floating Tobins Spirit Guide...took the edge off of that one.
For the storage unit, I put a Nuclear Sticker found in the Free Pack of Stickers, with Proton Pack, you
could also put a Ghostbusters symbol. It cuts alot off the the top of the flash, and looks cool, I think.
Also did the ones in the back.
The Mag Flashers are suppose to stay lit, I believe, they do so on mine, at a certain trigger....maybe someone knows this, and get more active or tricks, it seems, when both are lit.
The Auto Launch can be a start up glitch, I have seen and shared with that on opening boot sequence, it can auto launch. Sometimes it seems if this was a result of a game turned off, mid ball, or pressing start before booting fully. Not sure if this is what you see.
Dont know about the GI.

1.05 does have some rule bugs, many will be shared by the Premium owners, as thousands ship.
but so far, left captive ball award issues, some scoring, I think a few modes are off...

Others that play better than me will notice more and will share.

Yes, this is the first thing to do!

Just send me $20 for an air ball protector on the ramps.

I havent seen a ball go near the goggles....not saying it cant happen, just see only a few airballs here or there....normal amount.

No harm to protect the goggles, but only one issue reported, and only with no protection in place over the targets.

I just threw this together in case someone else was concerned and wanted some other ideas.

If you are concerned about the Ecto goggles, especially if you have nothing over the ramp targets,
I found this Key Fob in my Goody bag. A Bolt and nut, and a spring stretched out, here is a side, but slightly distorted view.
A ball cant go underneath, and the likelihood from above has to be insanely rare to arc up and down.
On a Spring, a lot of energy will be lost, on a stiff wire, it should stop alot. No real cost, just another way, but if theres a large demand fr a clear, Ill make it, I just dont really see it needed...yet.....

For taking care of outlane hops, this is almost ready for proto-production.
The edges need to be cleaned to perfect angles, of course. It covers the guide rails enough to keep balls from jumping to
outlane. It also, if you can see has a clear edge extending beyond the original plastic, so its also a sling shot protector!

A second picture shows it with additional art, if possible.

GB Lane Gaurds (resized).jpg

GB Lane Gaurdsw (resized).jpg

Ecto stop (resized).jpg

Nothing...normal bugs, Ignore and they will be going away with updates.

Try reseating the cable going to the board on the slimer mech.

I guess the sky isnt falling!

They are available from Joe, at Pin Graffix, Curly at Little shop of games, and myself direct.
Mine, in clear is $19.95 including shipping.

Art

Yes, I did ball drain and shooter lane, as well as a spot on the top ball arc, and two spots in front of 2x and 3x, even if there was factory, to help cushion the reflection from air balls going back down.
I've used removable mylar, and pulled up shooter lane once to see wear after 200 plays.
All good, job done, although if one is concerned
about chipping, cliff is better.

I'm happy in home use knowing the usage
expected.

Removable vinyl or removable mylar is a low tack adhesive...like twice as strong as a post it note.
It stays in place, put peels off reasonably clean. I find it stickier than cling, which has moved on me.

I love cliffy products to cover or fix wear, but for me, when Ive removed a few years later on a NIB scoop, it leaves the indent, or
"lip end" marks.
So pretty much once on, it stays on.

Ive since changed in some cases to this method.

I dont believe my method is best, on games that get a heavy, amount of play.

Cliffys still rule!

After I posted, I figured Id get in trouble....I didnt buy any, it was a gift from a Pinhead local, who
works at Disney Imagineering, and they were tossing it.

If it helps, Its tackiness is not Cling, so avoid cling.
The verbage to search would be "removable".
It may or may not include "Mylar" or simply "clear plastic".

I always tested a small square away from the play area first, in the past, but I feel pretty good that removable, now is
relatively uniform in the market.

Lastly, it is on my list of things to create, as I have a handful of flat decal products on the boards for my son to
run in a new business.....I wouldnt wait for me, and I cant promise it will happen.

But I have a neat universal sheet in the works that would cover Shooter lane, drain, pops, shapes, etc, that
will be of help to all of us!

Hopefully ready in spring.

There are many outlane covers out there, and I have used PBL one.
It stops the rail bounce to the outlane.

However, I have one being made by the big guys, clear or with a nice decal, that not only achieves this, but also acts as a Sling plastic protector.

There are others out there, but I think Ill have one thats better.

Its stalled at cutting with a Backlog at Laseriffic, but should appear soon.

I hope to have the price much more reasonable, of course, than what is in the market.

I also had tested gluing a split clear mini post, and anchoring under this guide for more of a "Bounce" and it worked fine.
The Artwork covers the metal rail, and ads "mystery" to the ball movement..

Heres a pic.....

GB Lane Gaurds (resized).jpg

GB Lane Gaurdsw (resized).jpg

Its the product with the Center Post.

If it doesnt show up, Terry has his settings to "Not Display" when out of stock.

We have debated between us, those making them, whether to go rigid, semi-rigid, or flexible.

I chose flexible, LSOG has semi Rigid.
The only way I could do rigid would sit on top of the metal frame support under the city, on top of the pops.
But ramps are assembled differently but too great a degree to do in mass.

The question was if a high speed steel ball is going to hit it, one should want the most amount of energy absorbed.
A Flexible piece will do this, and I went in that direction.

Semi Rigid is good too, and mounting cars or other objects on it will move/jiggle less, which is good.

But I went this way believing a straight down bounce back, repeatedly, after a few years, would divot in front of the target.

I could be wrong, this is a physics argument, so someone smarter, please chime in.

Now that my game is 4 months old, the divot concept has some merit. I added to removable mylar clear dots in front of the targets, where the ball hits, to protect factory mylar and playfield.

LSOG has recently changed their model, to help with the 2%-3% that have it not covering enough of the 2X.
Another method is to make an oval out of the mounting holes, to slide down a few mm.

GolfingDad added some foam, his assembly was off 3-4mm.....

Thanks for sharing, Chuck!

Another great tool I use with this, and in shop jobs are Plastic Razor blades.
They help lift the Mylar for replacing.

I want to pop in here to repeat some info.

Whether it is mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, the original ones are from the same template, insanely tested on games
that were in place. If the protector is too wide, Slimer hits it, which is a bigger problem.

So Since Premiums are shipping, Airballs, are still in issue, the playfield solution, has produced an amount of games with issues.
A small amount, but nonetheless present.

Some people might still see some airballs. We dont know the percentage...Im guessing 5%, but hearing a bit more.
LSOG has redesigned. Im unsure where to go next, because Id need another game in house, to clear up a few percentage of variations.

Sometimes, is a combo of adjusting slimer, raising threads, extending holes, or adding foam.

All of us that have plastics, would not know this for your specific game. Yes, you want 100%, and we do too, but we dont control the dimpling or assembly at Stern, and these few mm are an issue.

So rather then insist your game needs vendors to change a plastic, how do we know what to offer to fix Sterns issue?
Certainly if we test on several games, and solve, send out hundreds with an overwhelming success rate, and then have a few issues.

Not sure yet.

Heres a pic to lengthen the holes.....the goal being a few mm of coverage over the targets, while not obstructing ramp, and
not hitting slimer, etc etc.....

Heres also the post I made on LSOG.....we want the answer, but not sure if there is a perfect 100% solution with the variations coming from Stern.

Requoted:

Chiming in here for you Joe, if you dont mind.
Whether you ordered from LSOG, myself, or Joe, we have all learned there are variations by a few mm in the assembly of the game.
The Slimer Mech, especially, is off more often. You can see the oval hole in the playfield on premium that shares, Stern knows that variations in Assembly will occur.
For this reason, any Airball protector I have made, or shared, has about a 95% success rate.
There simply are games, that with a quick install will not be 100%.
I Have offered additional help with how to adjust....washers, standoffs, hole lengthening,, and Joe has redone his model.
We are all listening and hear the issues that come up, but impossible to get 100%.....after all it is a Stern Issue first, not a flat piece of plastic.
If you have any problems....reach out...we may make an error, a plastic could break, shit happens.
People here too, all of us, and we arent running away.
In this regard, we all wish for 100%....I have racked my brain, and spent weeks hand cutting variations, slots to let it ride higher on the ramps, curves, thicker, pop bracket mounted. This is where we are.
Got a better one...share, but remember its got to solve EVERYONE.....thats the tough part.
We all do try. Sometimes, we will fail....it happens, but please remember, these do work for the great Majority, and even LSOG, has retooled again, to increase a few points, the success rate!

Hole lengthening (resized).jpg

Oh, as a Public Service announcement, for myself and others, since the emails keep coming in:

1) There may be a protective film on your plastic to peel off. Simply use your finger nail near the edge, or at a hole.
(Im so sorry we dont stick labels on that say, "Peel here")

2) Shipping Issues. Its Holiday shipping time for everyone. Patience is a good thing.
Our shipping is first class free, Im sorry I cant offer priority mail free, or ask the post office to move your package faster.
Ill be happy to send priority, for $4.00 more, but please help me, all Black Friday vendors, with the knowledge we dont
control the post office, and it costs a lot more to get a package overseas.....so sorry overseas shipping cant be Free for overseas,
but I can raise the price, and include it then, if the illusion feels better.

Air Ball Protector update.

As Stern is now using a new playfield, and Premiums are flying out,
I am hearing, as are others of a few games, that airballs may still occur on the 2X.

A couple people have sent in pictures, and in some cases the photo and coverage matches my game,
but this table, is still producing some airballs.
On the opposite side, are a pile of emails saying it works fine.
From all my communication, its somewhere between 3%-8% of games, are assembled differently enough
where the plastic is not stopping the 2x.

Obviously, it would be nice if there was 100% consistency in a Stern assembly, but this is not needed from their perspective.
On the side of offering a flat piece of plastic, I can offer help with suggestions how to gain a few mm, or lose a few, raise slimers boom, or repeat back what others have discovered...either bending the target forward, or shimming, as well as Additional sticky foam behind, to help, deflect and absorb.

What I know cant happen, is I have no way of knowing what game you have, nor how this will perform.
Some people may get a game where this will only help 65%-75%.
I cant make another, without finding one of these deviate games, getting it my house for a week, test protos, and start the process all over. Even if the game aspect happened, Ill be honest, I tried to get this to everyone
at the lowest price, and I simply dont have 30 plus hours to make one, that fixes the exception, and possibly raise closer to 100%.

With this in mind, mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, perhaps others, Ill speak for them by saying we cant guarantee
our flat plastic, will fix Sterns mistake 100%....and any vendor depending on their numbers might see a
slightly different variance.

For me, I can only try to offer the best, fastest, and cheapest, but cant guarantee 100%.
If you feel you need a 100% guarantee, please chat with everyone you need to.
I will gladly refund your money with a return, if you are not happy, but I must stop an email
that comes in saying I must pay for return shipping...(its shipped free to you), or refund 100%
without a return. I have only this one item, and am not in business with many other products
or higher prices, to build in free shipping out, and free return shipping.
Im so sorry to those who expect this. I too would truly love if Walmart paid for my return shipping or gas.

Should someone find 100% perfection, please share...but so far, 90% + at this time is the best I can get.

Art

Thanks Chuck,

Interesting in the debate, ours is extremely flexible...absorbing energy.
Others are rigid.
So far no reports of breakage, and lots on the rigid type.

Always appreciate the support...its more my ego, than $$....cant completely feel worthless in retirement!

I messed with my target Spring, as I had issues when received in July.

So, I changed the right target Spring, and left the original on the left.
New Spring took care of target on right immediately. Still had bricks on left.
After 3 months or so, the left "wore in", and it matches and functions fine.

Perhaps, by "specs" the springs installed are correct, but need to be worked in over a couple hundred games?

The issues with the game, arent ones that can be addressed exactly in production.

Slimer hitting bracket.....Because of the distance of just a few mm when assembled, some
can have an issue. Solution for 98%, use a hex key and loosen grub screw, raise and tighten.

Scoleri Brothers Targets. Some get bricks. You can let it wear in, adjust the springs you have, mess
with replacement springs. Also a small amount if time, but engineering wise its working fine on so many, the
forum and this thread magnifies the issues. I spent all of 10 minutes to fix one target.

Air Balls. Myself and others have plastics from $20-$50 that fix most all concerns, from Ramp targets, inlane hopes, and any center Drain gap concerns. If this bothers you, there is a fix.

I think thats it, and from the perspective of messing with the game for months, now that the playfield issue seems to be resolved, There seems to be minimal worries, and many solutions....

Perfect? No. Can they make it Perfect? they try, but not likely.
Still Normal in the world of making almost anything.

Still worried? Buy used, or wait to visit a distributor that you can see, touch, and play the game you get
kicking all the tires till you are happy.

But if you want one...IMO, these last few bumps are minor.

Oh, I agree with you!

The outlane posts being higher, or a rubber post would be a solution to a construction issue, or a wider plastic.
I think that one is true.

On things like left ramp plastic cover, I am guessing that because it is happening on a smaller percentage,
its not deemed, "defect". We need to think only of the playfield issue.....less than 5%, but because it gets posted, (rightfully), complained, chewed on, hashed about, it is the only thing people hear, and in conversation
months back, it appears people believed it was 95% happening.

Or like WOZ, I had two people in 2 weeks visit go.."Beautiful, but I wouldnt own it, the light boards fail".
True, some did, and fixed fast but magnified by our social interaction.

The air balls off the targets.....Oh yes, absolutely, they should have made a fix, but just maybe when I mentioned to George, Gary, and Dwight at the same time at the factory, that I was paying some medical bills with mine, to let me continue on.....I was only part joking. .

We spend our money, on a toy, and we want perfection. This is who we are today. If they made a game like Iron Man...not too much to go wrong. But every time we want something new. we are also the guinea pigs to test. Could you imagine the uproar if the magna slings didnt work?

I know some guys hate any analogies, but take Apple, or Samsung....Billions, and they make errors,
and people will complain rightfully....shit happens...factories making other components screw up.

Im not defending Stern...I too want as all others do, but I retired not only for health, but the difficulty
of perfection, and the magnification of any failure.

It is the reason that most vendors dont post much....one failure, and a shit storm can follow.
Repeat the failure, and its a GB Playfield Shitnado!

But Stern Does Listen, Playfield solutions in place and happening. Wire Guide bending on Captive ball...new piece engineered and sent out upon request. Half a dozen Goggles Broken, theres a new part to add.
Plastics...dont know.

What I know is I love playing the game....hundreds and hundreds so far, and it has brought great Joy.
Those just getting their game now, are finding these issues for themselves, and its what we talk about.
Not much Strategy, Pics of Kids in Joy playing, Even the Ecto Goggles, peppers ghost, now "known", not even discussed on Dialed in..the new animations just added.

Its simply how we approach this forum, and how the flow goes here.....some positive, some negative, but like an accident on the side of the road, we tend to stop and gravitate towards the negative....

I couldnt find them as washers in a hardware store, but they would be shooter lane washers.

If you loosen the grub screw, and raise to the level you wish, you can tighten without washers,
and mine is holding fine for 4 months...no washers.

Theres the pics you need.....Certainly add the washers if you feel the need....every game has such slight differences.

You can also lower the Captive ball Plate, by removing the 3 washers as well.

I have received my outlane and sling shot protectorproto production samples. I will be installing and testing tomorrow, and if all OK, will share photos, and start taking orders. With and without decals, Im expecting $29 including shipping, and the 3 piece set to be about $45
shipped, helping with lower costs.

I believe it to be the best choice out there for Premium and LE.....more to come.....

The Sling Protectors accomplish 2 primary goals. First, but the outlanes, this Plastic is high enough to catch the lane skips, as others, but "larger" to help with the 45 degree outlane drains. In addition, these wrap around the full Sling shot Plastic.
This protects the whole plastic from Chipping, especially when this might happen in Multi Ball.
Other Products are not wrapping far enough the Bottom corner, where slings always chip.

Lowering the Captive ball Plate and/or Raising Slimer, can keep his Butt from Dragging across the metal, sometimes producing Phantom hits.

There are 1/2 circle mirror Mods, with somewhat difficult instructions, to remove the screws and mount.

I chose 2 small pieces of double sided foam tape, raised a bit, like above, and accomplished quite well
and fast!

Finally received My Protos back, and am very pleased!

This GB Lane and Sling Guard not only stops outlane Hops better than most, it also is a full sling shot protector! Full Coverage!

I wanted one that did both, but I also did not want to cover up the Great Artwork, with a Colored Plastic.

A decal is coming shortly, just to cover the left wire lanes and complete the look, if desired.

Getting a Store up shortly, Ill be taking orders, as with the Holidays, these will take about 4 weeks to arrive.

Expected to be $29 including shipping, and Ill be bundling with the air guard.

Many Many hours to tweak this, so far for Premium and LE.

Art

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Thank you very much! One kind word, makes all the work worthwhile!

Of course! I have always enjoyed shipping almost anywhere in the world.

I need to test pack and weigh, but I am hoping/believing, shipping overseas to be between $5-$8
more...

Ill have the store up by the end of the day with everything one needs!

Thanks!

Thats a Great way to go Rob, and I have done it to mine!

I did have some issues with them staying on, so out came the glue!

Where I am now is gluing this to the underside of the protector and slit, so the plastic is helping with the hold.
I am not sure yet whether it will be needed to glue to lane guide as well.

Has yours been hit, and flown off?

I found it helps best with a nudge and energy transfer. Instead of bricking metal against metal, it allows a nudge for lane control we all enjoy.

It helped with lane hops too, cutting them down 25%-30%.

Ultimately, nothing to lose to try...

Im happy keeping them both!

You have have to consider a file or dremel, and cut out an indentation for slimers butt!

Your likely right, Rob.

It could be the height...I dont have much height on my rails to do so, so I started with post rings.
Ill check again...I have Cliffy, Titan, regular, and Thin Stern.
Which did you use?

I only tried a Cliffy Post sleeve.....

You are seeing an issue in the plastic, and while it should not be there, IMO, It is "Normal" for this game.

Really weird....you may be the 7th or 8th person to mention this need.
Personally, I have never had this happen.

I fail to understand why.

Unless there is a need for hundreds, you might have to craft one yourself.
Or find something existing for another game, and see if you can adapt it.

He needs a piece of plastic that covers the whole ramp.

Tough to anchor.

No worries here...thought maybe you had something you made that would help him.

I can only think of something anchored at the top plastic, but short of drilling the ramp,
has anyone made a 1-off full ramp plastic?

(thanks for the agreeable "Stars" post! )

Raise the back of the game, Lower the Coil setting Power on the flippers, Shim the rear of the ramp with washers, build and solve a ramp cover that no one has made yet.

Mine had issues as well, and Im not fond of the anchor points through the playfield.

With so much movement of the VUK kicking out, Im surprised there are not more Anchor points.
id love to see Point 1 really Solid, and the back two adjustable in a small arc, with an effective track and thumb screws.

It would take anyone 5 minutes to adjust the scoop to their choice, and with markings share this setting with others.

All problems, and future problems of service would be solved.

I wish they would start thinking this way with many aspects.

Making the game more user friendly for adjustments and service.

Yes, that should be trimmed down.

Before you do, make sure you have enough material left soldered.

At the beginning of this thread, somewhere, and repeated a bunch, are pics, how to do, how to raise, using grub screw...

Someone might have the specific post #....

New Unit of measurement, Chuck? 1/2 Ball height? Great!

I have my Levelers in the back, 7/8 Ball Height!

None here either.....bunches of strips and such added.....

Yes, i changed to glo balls, and it has helped.

I have not seen a way to anchor a plastic at the top of the ramp, short of extending down from current.

Based on dialogue, there are some 15-30 people so far having this issue. So far not enough to spend the time
to make for distribution.

Many have solved by lowering coil strength a bit.

The little I had a reduced by dropping the coil, but I also put some slime decals from Laseriffiv up the ramp.
This little extra friction, the ball going over it as it goes up seems to help too.

maybe someone can test putting a clear stripe of removable mylar up the ramp, to see if it keeps the ball
any better from becoming airbourne.

Kinda like my dog butt-scooting?

It decreases dramatically, Adam, after a while.....I went from this happening once every 10 games, to hardly any at all.

The adjustment solutions....all do work if needed...just enjoy the crazy way the game plays!

My pleasure! 3 or 4 sets left for a bit.
Too cold to cut, Im told.

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An affordable, well working set from me......

Thanks for sharing.

It appears some Pros coming out are getting assembled a little different.

Heres a Pic to ovalize the Protector Holes, it can go in the other direction, if needed, that will allow
some adjustment with regard to targets or slimer.

I heard from another customer, who too a dremel and sanding disk, and by viewing top down, fingernail cut out a small dent area for Slimers Butt.

Equally, is something I havent done, as I dont have a Pro is the Switch adjustment...Thank you for Sharing!!!

I have heard and done a shim on the Boom Mechanism below the playfield with washers under the back side, or front as needed to simply change the whole angle.

Interesting, as the variation seems to be up to 5mm in Assembly in distance variation

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Only about 4, hashed over a dozen times each......

Ive tied in with some self tapping T's, for Single Board tapping.

Kinda like this, there are different kinds out there.

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I have 3 7smd Strips running off of the Center City Bulb under the playfield, Another 7 SMD strip off of the firehouse, and assorted pads, as well.....so far no issues.....

It may be an energized magnet from the contacts touching on the slings, you can visually check them, or with the glass off, and you hearing the noise, see if the ball gets grabbed near a sling, if its more of a solenoid, see if the switch needs adjusting under the storage facility in the subway.

Just gap, the contacts....2 sec...easy...small 1-1,5mm gap.

I needed to change the screw on mine as if the center post or the whole support is loose in any way, it wont bounce back.

See if its solid, and has no wiggle or give.

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

Nope, it raises his butt up and keeps it from hitting the buildings.

If yours is hitting the Black metal black cover, that can also be lowered a bit by removing the washers.

If you are getting airballs from the ramp, youll need to check flipper strength, or the flap itself creating lift....even a cliffy on the scoleri target.

If its from the far right fixed target, the plastic can be adjusted for coverage and height.
In a few rare cases, it can fail due to an assembly that is very far off.

I have a customer who put foam, swinks angles, my plastic, modified my plastic, and says he still gets air balls.....no idea, but if you need help lowering the plastic or raising the height,shoot me a PM.

If there is not enough thread on the standoffs to add two washers and secure the nut, or it still doesnt clear, then you;ll need either 2 or 3 short stand-offs, 1/4" or less.

You would raise the 2 left anchor points, or all 3.

As one can note, the oval hole, where the boom comes up from below the playfield, has a large oval opening.
Depending on the playfield, how its dimpled and assembled, (Ramp, and Boom) can vary by as much as about 5mm is my guess in assembly. There is minimal difference in game play, but it causes the ramp itself to be in a different position relative to the captive ball anchor, and the left plastic anchor.

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.....ahhhh the ghosts are playing with your balls, Pez!

Thank you for sharing this.....important, and great to have found a solution!