Ghostbuster Issue Thread

(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (2 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (2 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (2 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (2 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (2 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (2 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (2 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (2 years ago)

Post #709 Videos of the Pinballlife outlane plastics in use for GB Posted by Pinzzz (2 years ago)

Post #876 tatman9999 photos of his Titan Rubbers in green on GB Posted by tatman9999 (2 years ago)

Post #1034 Photos of mismatched flipper side rails installed on factory game Posted by Trekkie1978 (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5 2 years ago

On One of the review threads, is a 10 minute adjustment for slimer.
Factory installed gap needs adjusting.
I would imagine, as they learn this at the factory, they will adjust.

No help on the flipper, although others have mentioned power issues, and leaned toward EOS Switch.

Im sure plenty of answers will come.

No they shouldnt be there, Yes, perfection is what is always wanted.
Stuff happens.

#14 2 years ago

Great and Easy Fix!

Send to Stern, or Jared!

19
#94 2 years ago

I dont find an issue with sharing as a community, issues a new game may have.
It helps Stern, it helps all of us.

What I find hard is the process of sharing these issues with the expectation, low ticket or high ticket items
must be nothing less than perfect.

In a consumption based society, where in general people buy, as opposed to themselves working in a factory and making,
we have a very high standard of expectation. Not unreasonable to have, just maybe better to know it doesnt always work this way.
Iphones, auto recalls, planes for the military...all much higher volume, higher ticket items, with massive funding, and yet, flaws in production.

It comes down to people, and people inspect, do they blink, sneeze, get distracted, and miss something?
Sure? Id love to hear a solution for this, other then Robotic camera inspection.

Every product Ive made, imported, or direct manufactured has a human element.
Every consumer wants Perfect, and complains if it isnt.
Every complaint is magnified against all those that were reasonably perfect.
Very Very hard to find perfect people to do perfect jobs, regardless of pay.

So perhaps constructive complaints that help everyone is better, than just complaints that perfection isnt achieved for
the money spent.

It will always happen, and input helping solve should be a Positive testament to the Pinside community.

11
#112 2 years ago

I played my first games tonight at the Pinball Lounge!
What a Blast!

Brutal, fast, tons to do, and a great music score!
What a loaded pin for a Pro!

No issues with slimer, no issues with balls jumping over lanes.

Kurt and Ed installed a Post save in the middle....helps a lot!

For the low level wire out lanes...the post/rubber adjustment helps, but I am likely going to try the smallest of a clear tube to try and add to the lane guide, just to get some more bounce, and fix any possibility of the ball jumping.

For a new game, likely some of the best first release code Ive seen...
We had something happen that awarded many events and multiball, and the light show, music was over the top!

A great challenge, at the same time being Fun!

Feels like a Classic winner to me!

#139 2 years ago

The rail jumps we had seemed to come at an angle and be at the impact with the immediate front of the wire guide.
Is this how others are seeing?

How about a clear rubber dot?
or a quick dot off a glue gun?

Should be enough to stop the ball from becoming air borne.

#144 2 years ago

No confusion. "I" had no issues.....I didnt consider one time on a bunch of games, an "issue".
"We" had jumps, refers collectively to the guys I was playing with, and then in conversation later
that evening with others who went to the open house. I was referring with "we" to mean collectively my friends. Collectively "we" had issues.

Taken out of context, with assumptions, perhaps confused you.

#155 2 years ago
Quoted from tpir:

So you somehow left out at first that the other people you played with had issues? Seems like an important piece of context since your review implied there were no issues on the table you played and the topic of the thread is issues.
Were you the "hey this game has a reverse skill shot!" guy? (Whatever that means.)

No, I am not, but my sincere thanks for checking my posts for perspective, accuracy, content and semantics.

#234 2 years ago

A heavier wire from can be made and milled thinner where it goes into wood.

1 week later
#451 2 years ago

I look at the wire issue differently.
As far as I have heard, it is not on all games, but some....No one is answering this, or expected to quantify.

However, it may not be a "Stern design" issue, but more an annealing process of the wire itself from the factory that
supplies them.

Say you are Stern and this wire form you have used for many games, and have bought tens of thousands the last few years.

The factory may be buying spools of wire to form and harden.
In the course of manufacturing the original spool, its possible to have inconsistencies.
Why? Competitive world....Cheap wins the game. No one is stress testing, or analyzing a large wire spool at each point,

Well lets say the spool is fine, but the fabrication, and the "hardening" of the metal has issues.
I dont know how they choose to fabricate this piece, but I do know how to harden and soften metals.
But under a basic few, some failed the hardness test, as we see now in bending.

I wouldnt believe with all the testing they "missed this" or chose to ignore, just something that may not have happened in say a dozen games through the year of testing and development.

We here, are aware through posts and pictures, that some have this issue....not all, but some.
As we all slow to watch an accident on the side of the road, we by our nature, inflate this issue as either purposeful, negligent, or other on Sterns part.

I guess I dont see it this way....it falls under "shit happens".

But we are spending hard money, and todays view is it must be "perfect".
Gosh knows, people try.

An analogy. I have been Jewelry manufacturing for almost 40 years. When I started, Engagement rings meant 6-12 total choices in the market. They were perfected over the years, and profit margins allowed this.
Today, a bride wants a one-of-a kind, personal CAD created Engagement Ring. Today, Perfect is the only acceptable
result. I pretty much have given up, because Perfect is too hard to do, and anything less, is an emotional drama, not unlike
a pin purchase.

What my point is, it happens, worry less about who to blame, and know, IMO, that Stern will Fix.
Maybe, like others...not perfect, but I believe, sincerely, that that is the goal they always are striving for.

For me, I am glad this isnt a Forum where the last game made was 20 years ago....Ill take a GB, even with a few bugs,
and be very grateful that a Team of people have jobs that allow this to be made, and us to enjoy!

#453 2 years ago

I agree with you, my friend...this is definitely a "cost move".
What I wonder, and by no means am I advocating this at all, if a customer tests the movement in all directions
and it accidently "snaps". This would sound like a test failure, and a reason for a replacement.

I also think over time, they might likely reconsider this position.

1 month later
#756 2 years ago

Sorry to hear....it doesnt help to say, "it happens", or "mine has no switch issues".

Your issues are real and should be shared, but equally to share is a lot of games received, their are none.

The LE I received today, has raised wire out lanes, and apparently a thicker guide on captive ball.

Im sure issues will pop up...they always do, but a bunch of stuff right out of the box, shouldnt happen, nor does it appear
to be the norm.

Who knows....I may have to eat my own words.

#760 2 years ago

Mine did, upon request......Asked to check everything!

#763 2 years ago

The rails are raised now in production, as the LE received is just fine.

#766 2 years ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

Have you got a picture of your rails , because on my LE the rails are low , can you measure the height of the rail?
On my LE have got some issues ....... the switch on the 2 ramps don't works any time you pass in the ramp, a lot of big air ball !!!!! and insert ghosting ........

I think some of the LEs shipped to Overseas still had low sitting guides. Earlier Production. The game I have has the total height of about 5mm off the playfield.

I bought the Laser Cut Cover set, just in case, but still plan on installing for appearance as well.

1 week later
#809 2 years ago

My wife was playing today, and thought the same thing....

#832 2 years ago

I posted on a separate thread, but just to share, I had crazy slimer action, that was a result of the board connection coming a little loose. It wasnt visibly apparent, I thought I had a boom/set screw issue, but much like TWD, a shaker may be the culprit.
Re seat.....and back to normal.

#834 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I'm getting lots of phantom hits on Slimer. Time to poke around.

I havent done this yet...should you or anyone else see a way to raise slimer a mm or 2, please do share.
Also, has anyone seen the LED inside? Im guessing its on a board.

I ask as Slimer is extremely UV reactive! nothing else in the game is, and Im wondering if I can get that "glow".

#849 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

You'll find a grub screw at the top of the slimer shaft. Loosen, adjust height and tighten. Very simple

Thank you. I couldnt get the screw loose, but will try again.

1 week later
#896 2 years ago

You have a wonderful solution, that needs to be marketed.

I hope youll share a file, offer to a manufacturer, or sell them yourself.

I am definitely interested in supporting this and owning one.

How can this happen?

#901 2 years ago

Yes, I just adjusted and tweaked slings further.....found my sweet spot!
Coils at soft did cut down airballs, and I think the last piece, the target and ramp cover plastic, will fix all,
or close enough.

I believe the excess air balls have been tamed with solutions!

#905 2 years ago

Set mine at 40-45 as well for Sling Power, Ive had no issues with the Pops.

Im so sorry issues are occurring for others......

#952 2 years ago

Just finished a bunch of games with the wife!

First pin I have ever had that has given her the "Just one more Game" Feeling! Yes! Took a lifetime!

No More Airballs, stuck balls, and cheap drains!

Playing like it should....smooth and fast!

Happy household here playing away!

#954 2 years ago

Dont know.....its eyeballed.....old school......

#981 2 years ago

I wish .....She doesnt like learning any rules....just what she calls, "fun".

44 years, more pins then I have in my profile, this is the first game she asks to play with me, play on her own,
or simply tell guests we had over from England...picking up my last bulb effort..That its fun!

Rare compliment from someone who has had no interest before.

Cant say everyone will feel this way, but so far, havent had any guests disagree....(or they are being polite)

1 week later
#1049 2 years ago

Airballs, which is being addressed.

Issues are clear coat adherence issues.

Amazing game after that!!!

#1083 1 year ago

Sadly, youll need to repeat that every freakin 5 posts, as it wont get read......watch!

#1092 1 year ago

Those are some mighty fine washers, Paul! Seriously!

#1145 1 year ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Has any made plastics to stop airballs yet?

Working on em......

#1148 1 year ago

No idea yet.

I have our friend in Europes Template, a thinner, longer one that anchors on the left, and a hybrid longer one.
Depending on this, might factor into graphics.

Ill know something hopefully in a week. I prefer not to abandon it, but politely request no PMs at this time.

#1168 1 year ago

Heres a fun one.

No issues on toobin insert. Left my glass off for 3 days working on it and the white lines on both edges are now there.

45 days in.

Humidity, with the glass off?

#1187 1 year ago
Quoted from Fast-Ed:

No issues with mine! What are these for?

To cover the inserts that ghost, and the long one for the shooter lane to cover chips!

Center the sticker in the middle of the playfield...covers all ghosted inserts!

Thanks for sharing the new "program"!

#1206 1 year ago

Mine did so, and the cable plug came loose from the board on the slimer mech.... re-seated it.

#1213 1 year ago

I think it's more like a slot machine....it teases you by showing the biggest winners, but are coded to payoff on the lower values.??

#1233 1 year ago

Just wanting to share my issue that has kept me busy all weekend and is almost done.

My game, with the playfield in the full vertical position, all alone, decided to drop off the internal rails.
Not only did I have a cow! But a goat and a chicken too!!!
I couldnt move it after lifting and angling....having been here before with B/W before.

Friends came by, and what we discovered was the playfield guides were loose enough to literally unscrew by hand, and remove first. Equally the matching rail posts on the playfield, on both sides, were never tightened...about 4 turns to tighten.
Adding to this, the playfield actually has enough room on the side, to never hit mirror blades with plenty to spare.
It happened a second time, while we were working on the damage to many parts below the playfield.

In this regard, Ill have a quick thread up to ask for some help identifying part(s) that fell into the playfield we dont know where they go.

So, just me sharing, but just in case, the next time you have the playfield up, check your rails on the cabinet and its pin sliders on the playfield for wiggle room, and take note at the distance you have....This is rare, I dont expect anyone else to have this issue, but prefer to share so others might take a minute to be sure.

#1249 1 year ago

Adding special "ghosting" glue?

#1251 1 year ago

Shirt stripes are suppose to be yellow and blue and not blue and yellow on Tuesday, assembly day?

Seriously, no idea...maybe the guys coming home from work can guess.

#1254 1 year ago

Well Im the Dumb ass! Im looking at the pics and not the video!

#1259 1 year ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

3. Airball plastic, anyone selling these yet

Ill have a limited test batch available on Thursday or Friday.
Production on first version will start immediately after that.

Working on a second version, with Ecto1 and decal, as well.

3 weeks later
#1318 1 year ago

Not seeing what you see, but maybe some help.

If the flasher setting isnt working, then fix it manually.
I put a ghost, and then ended with a Floating Tobins Spirit Guide...took the edge off of that one.
For the storage unit, I put a Nuclear Sticker found in the Free Pack of Stickers, with Proton Pack, you
could also put a Ghostbusters symbol. It cuts alot off the the top of the flash, and looks cool, I think.
Also did the ones in the back.
The Mag Flashers are suppose to stay lit, I believe, they do so on mine, at a certain trigger....maybe someone knows this, and get more active or tricks, it seems, when both are lit.
The Auto Launch can be a start up glitch, I have seen and shared with that on opening boot sequence, it can auto launch. Sometimes it seems if this was a result of a game turned off, mid ball, or pressing start before booting fully. Not sure if this is what you see.
Dont know about the GI.

1.05 does have some rule bugs, many will be shared by the Premium owners, as thousands ship.
but so far, left captive ball award issues, some scoring, I think a few modes are off...

Others that play better than me will notice more and will share.

#1332 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I had this exact same problem and it made my game unplayable. Fix was easy once i figured it out. Lift the playfield. where the metal ramp meets the plastic subway it can actually be moved to the left or right a tiny bit, you can loosen the mounting screws but i just used a little force and the metal ramp moved a little to the right and now it works 100%. not sure why they made the mounting point slotted for adjustment but easy to fix.

Yes, this is the first thing to do!

#1338 1 year ago

Just send me $20 for an air ball protector on the ramps.

I havent seen a ball go near the goggles....not saying it cant happen, just see only a few airballs here or there....normal amount.

No harm to protect the goggles, but only one issue reported, and only with no protection in place over the targets.

#1344 1 year ago

I just threw this together in case someone else was concerned and wanted some other ideas.

If you are concerned about the Ecto goggles, especially if you have nothing over the ramp targets,
I found this Key Fob in my Goody bag. A Bolt and nut, and a spring stretched out, here is a side, but slightly distorted view.
A ball cant go underneath, and the likelihood from above has to be insanely rare to arc up and down.
On a Spring, a lot of energy will be lost, on a stiff wire, it should stop alot. No real cost, just another way, but if theres a large demand fr a clear, Ill make it, I just dont really see it needed...yet.....

For taking care of outlane hops, this is almost ready for proto-production.
The edges need to be cleaned to perfect angles, of course. It covers the guide rails enough to keep balls from jumping to
outlane. It also, if you can see has a clear edge extending beyond the original plastic, so its also a sling shot protector!

A second picture shows it with additional art, if possible.

GB Lane Gaurds (resized).jpg

GB Lane Gaurdsw (resized).jpg

Ecto stop (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1387 1 year ago

Nothing...normal bugs, Ignore and they will be going away with updates.

1 week later
#1417 1 year ago

Try reseating the cable going to the board on the slimer mech.

3 weeks later
#1628 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Can someone point me in the right direction for the airball protector for a Pro machine?
Thanks.

They are available from Joe, at Pin Graffix, Curly at Little shop of games, and myself direct.
Mine, in clear is $19.95 including shipping.

Art

#1633 1 year ago

Info here, as Ive received a few PM

Great News for Fellow Pinheads in Canada and Europe!
I figured out a lower weight and cost to ship Protectors to Europe in Canada!
For Canada, a Plain Protector is now $5.00 LESS! $24.95 SHIPPED! With Decal Loose or applied, $29.95.
For Europe So far, its $6.00 Less $26.95 Plain and $31.95 With Decal Loose or applied.
Im reaching out to those who have placed orders for either a refund or upgrade. Should I miss you, please shoot me a PM.
Here are the details again:
USA
It is available for $19.95 Including Shipping
and $24.95 With the Ghost Trap Decal Including Shipping

So, I dont have a business site up, and a direct Paypal to sales@rubinarthur.com will work.

Thanks,

Art

Ill be adding a Pinside Store

Quoted from RipleYYY:

i'm still waiting my free set, as i gave you more than some links/ideas at the conception...
(joking of course)

I hope for something new......send me your address, and Ill reach back to see if you can use!

#1648 1 year ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Does anyone put mylar down at the ball drain or am I the only one?

Yes, I did ball drain and shooter lane, as well as a spot on the top ball arc, and two spots in front of 2x and 3x, even if there was factory, to help cushion the reflection from air balls going back down.
I've used removable mylar, and pulled up shooter lane once to see wear after 200 plays.
All good, job done, although if one is concerned
about chipping, cliff is better.

I'm happy in home use knowing the usage
expected.

#1659 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

When you pulled it up to check did you use freeze spray or was everything so new and waxed that it came right up?
I've been using cling vinyl as recommended by another pinside member but I used Mylar in another spot first and wanted to pull it up.

Removable vinyl or removable mylar is a low tack adhesive...like twice as strong as a post it note.
It stays in place, put peels off reasonably clean. I find it stickier than cling, which has moved on me.

I love cliffy products to cover or fix wear, but for me, when Ive removed a few years later on a NIB scoop, it leaves the indent, or
"lip end" marks.
So pretty much once on, it stays on.

Ive since changed in some cases to this method.

I dont believe my method is best, on games that get a heavy, amount of play.

Cliffys still rule!

#1668 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Art, could you please post a link (amazon) this product you like to use ?
There are tons of options, but not sure what best suits pinball needs.

After I posted, I figured Id get in trouble....I didnt buy any, it was a gift from a Pinhead local, who
works at Disney Imagineering, and they were tossing it.

If it helps, Its tackiness is not Cling, so avoid cling.
The verbage to search would be "removable".
It may or may not include "Mylar" or simply "clear plastic".

I always tested a small square away from the play area first, in the past, but I feel pretty good that removable, now is
relatively uniform in the market.

Lastly, it is on my list of things to create, as I have a handful of flat decal products on the boards for my son to
run in a new business.....I wouldnt wait for me, and I cant promise it will happen.

But I have a neat universal sheet in the works that would cover Shooter lane, drain, pops, shapes, etc, that
will be of help to all of us!

Hopefully ready in spring.

#1673 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

OK that's it. That's IT! Frustration boiled over with those left and right drains. They are pure evil and need some major attention.
So.
I am going to add an extension to the outer rails and make them just a bit longer - and taller. In other words, where they enter the playfield at the top, I'm going to build a piggyback rail to "extend" the end of that rail and make it a bit closer to the back box. It appears that lengthening the starting point of those rails will narrow the gap and prevent the drain from gulping the ball when it's nearby. A little less space will be a big game-play advantage as far as I can see. Actually it's marginal anyway, since the STDM seems to have its way with me anyway.
Make any sense? I will have to drill two 3/16" holes into the playfield on each side to add this extension. But I'm committed. I've had it with those drains and will fix the issue. I realize I'm treading on thin ice and breaking the law by drilling into the playfield, but I can't go another round with those nasty designed-to-limit-ball-time drains.
Anyone else with me on this?

There are many outlane covers out there, and I have used PBL one.
It stops the rail bounce to the outlane.

However, I have one being made by the big guys, clear or with a nice decal, that not only achieves this, but also acts as a Sling plastic protector.

There are others out there, but I think Ill have one thats better.

Its stalled at cutting with a Backlog at Laseriffic, but should appear soon.

I hope to have the price much more reasonable, of course, than what is in the market.

I also had tested gluing a split clear mini post, and anchoring under this guide for more of a "Bounce" and it worked fine.
The Artwork covers the metal rail, and ads "mystery" to the ball movement..

Heres a pic.....

GB Lane Gaurds (resized).jpg

GB Lane Gaurdsw (resized).jpg

#1684 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This looks nice.
Also, where is the PBL one? Cant find it on their website...

Its the product with the Center Post.

If it doesnt show up, Terry has his settings to "Not Display" when out of stock.

#1726 1 year ago

We have debated between us, those making them, whether to go rigid, semi-rigid, or flexible.

I chose flexible, LSOG has semi Rigid.
The only way I could do rigid would sit on top of the metal frame support under the city, on top of the pops.
But ramps are assembled differently but too great a degree to do in mass.

The question was if a high speed steel ball is going to hit it, one should want the most amount of energy absorbed.
A Flexible piece will do this, and I went in that direction.

Semi Rigid is good too, and mounting cars or other objects on it will move/jiggle less, which is good.

But I went this way believing a straight down bounce back, repeatedly, after a few years, would divot in front of the target.

I could be wrong, this is a physics argument, so someone smarter, please chime in.

Now that my game is 4 months old, the divot concept has some merit. I added to removable mylar clear dots in front of the targets, where the ball hits, to protect factory mylar and playfield.

LSOG has recently changed their model, to help with the 2%-3% that have it not covering enough of the 2X.
Another method is to make an oval out of the mounting holes, to slide down a few mm.

GolfingDad added some foam, his assembly was off 3-4mm.....

#1740 1 year ago

Thanks for sharing, Chuck!

Another great tool I use with this, and in shop jobs are Plastic Razor blades.
They help lift the Mylar for replacing.

#1773 1 year ago

I want to pop in here to repeat some info.

Whether it is mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, the original ones are from the same template, insanely tested on games
that were in place. If the protector is too wide, Slimer hits it, which is a bigger problem.

So Since Premiums are shipping, Airballs, are still in issue, the playfield solution, has produced an amount of games with issues.
A small amount, but nonetheless present.

Some people might still see some airballs. We dont know the percentage...Im guessing 5%, but hearing a bit more.
LSOG has redesigned. Im unsure where to go next, because Id need another game in house, to clear up a few percentage of variations.

Sometimes, is a combo of adjusting slimer, raising threads, extending holes, or adding foam.

All of us that have plastics, would not know this for your specific game. Yes, you want 100%, and we do too, but we dont control the dimpling or assembly at Stern, and these few mm are an issue.

So rather then insist your game needs vendors to change a plastic, how do we know what to offer to fix Sterns issue?
Certainly if we test on several games, and solve, send out hundreds with an overwhelming success rate, and then have a few issues.

Not sure yet.

Heres a pic to lengthen the holes.....the goal being a few mm of coverage over the targets, while not obstructing ramp, and
not hitting slimer, etc etc.....

Heres also the post I made on LSOG.....we want the answer, but not sure if there is a perfect 100% solution with the variations coming from Stern.

Requoted:

Chiming in here for you Joe, if you dont mind.
Whether you ordered from LSOG, myself, or Joe, we have all learned there are variations by a few mm in the assembly of the game.
The Slimer Mech, especially, is off more often. You can see the oval hole in the playfield on premium that shares, Stern knows that variations in Assembly will occur.
For this reason, any Airball protector I have made, or shared, has about a 95% success rate.
There simply are games, that with a quick install will not be 100%.
I Have offered additional help with how to adjust....washers, standoffs, hole lengthening,, and Joe has redone his model.
We are all listening and hear the issues that come up, but impossible to get 100%.....after all it is a Stern Issue first, not a flat piece of plastic.
If you have any problems....reach out...we may make an error, a plastic could break, shit happens.
People here too, all of us, and we arent running away.
In this regard, we all wish for 100%....I have racked my brain, and spent weeks hand cutting variations, slots to let it ride higher on the ramps, curves, thicker, pop bracket mounted. This is where we are.
Got a better one...share, but remember its got to solve EVERYONE.....thats the tough part.
We all do try. Sometimes, we will fail....it happens, but please remember, these do work for the great Majority, and even LSOG, has retooled again, to increase a few points, the success rate!

Hole lengthening (resized).jpg

#1785 1 year ago

Oh, as a Public Service announcement, for myself and others, since the emails keep coming in:

1) There may be a protective film on your plastic to peel off. Simply use your finger nail near the edge, or at a hole.
(Im so sorry we dont stick labels on that say, "Peel here")

2) Shipping Issues. Its Holiday shipping time for everyone. Patience is a good thing.
Our shipping is first class free, Im sorry I cant offer priority mail free, or ask the post office to move your package faster.
Ill be happy to send priority, for $4.00 more, but please help me, all Black Friday vendors, with the knowledge we dont
control the post office, and it costs a lot more to get a package overseas.....so sorry overseas shipping cant be Free for overseas,
but I can raise the price, and include it then, if the illusion feels better.

#1823 1 year ago

Air Ball Protector update.

As Stern is now using a new playfield, and Premiums are flying out,
I am hearing, as are others of a few games, that airballs may still occur on the 2X.

A couple people have sent in pictures, and in some cases the photo and coverage matches my game,
but this table, is still producing some airballs.
On the opposite side, are a pile of emails saying it works fine.
From all my communication, its somewhere between 3%-8% of games, are assembled differently enough
where the plastic is not stopping the 2x.

Obviously, it would be nice if there was 100% consistency in a Stern assembly, but this is not needed from their perspective.
On the side of offering a flat piece of plastic, I can offer help with suggestions how to gain a few mm, or lose a few, raise slimers boom, or repeat back what others have discovered...either bending the target forward, or shimming, as well as Additional sticky foam behind, to help, deflect and absorb.

What I know cant happen, is I have no way of knowing what game you have, nor how this will perform.
Some people may get a game where this will only help 65%-75%.
I cant make another, without finding one of these deviate games, getting it my house for a week, test protos, and start the process all over. Even if the game aspect happened, Ill be honest, I tried to get this to everyone
at the lowest price, and I simply dont have 30 plus hours to make one, that fixes the exception, and possibly raise closer to 100%.

With this in mind, mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, perhaps others, Ill speak for them by saying we cant guarantee
our flat plastic, will fix Sterns mistake 100%....and any vendor depending on their numbers might see a
slightly different variance.

For me, I can only try to offer the best, fastest, and cheapest, but cant guarantee 100%.
If you feel you need a 100% guarantee, please chat with everyone you need to.
I will gladly refund your money with a return, if you are not happy, but I must stop an email
that comes in saying I must pay for return shipping...(its shipped free to you), or refund 100%
without a return. I have only this one item, and am not in business with many other products
or higher prices, to build in free shipping out, and free return shipping.
Im so sorry to those who expect this. I too would truly love if Walmart paid for my return shipping or gas.

Should someone find 100% perfection, please share...but so far, 90% + at this time is the best I can get.

Art

#1832 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Art, I appreciate you creating this product & I love mine. Mine works perfectly.
Not only will I keep mine I have no hesitation of buying another if it ever breaks.
The quality in appearance and performance is better than anything I could ever create.

Thanks Chuck,

Interesting in the debate, ours is extremely flexible...absorbing energy.
Others are rigid.
So far no reports of breakage, and lots on the rigid type.

Always appreciate the support...its more my ego, than $$....cant completely feel worthless in retirement!

#1916 1 year ago

I messed with my target Spring, as I had issues when received in July.

So, I changed the right target Spring, and left the original on the left.
New Spring took care of target on right immediately. Still had bricks on left.
After 3 months or so, the left "wore in", and it matches and functions fine.

Perhaps, by "specs" the springs installed are correct, but need to be worked in over a couple hundred games?

1 week later
#1978 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Same here. I want a GB Premium bad but Stern acting like they could care less about these issues makes me too nervous to buy right now. It also doesn't help that I emailed them and ask them if they were going to address these issues and they never even had the courtesy to email me back. I even told them that I have bought two new pins recently from them. Oh well......

The issues with the game, arent ones that can be addressed exactly in production.

Slimer hitting bracket.....Because of the distance of just a few mm when assembled, some
can have an issue. Solution for 98%, use a hex key and loosen grub screw, raise and tighten.

Scoleri Brothers Targets. Some get bricks. You can let it wear in, adjust the springs you have, mess
with replacement springs. Also a small amount if time, but engineering wise its working fine on so many, the
forum and this thread magnifies the issues. I spent all of 10 minutes to fix one target.

Air Balls. Myself and others have plastics from $20-$50 that fix most all concerns, from Ramp targets, inlane hopes, and any center Drain gap concerns. If this bothers you, there is a fix.

I think thats it, and from the perspective of messing with the game for months, now that the playfield issue seems to be resolved, There seems to be minimal worries, and many solutions....

Perfect? No. Can they make it Perfect? they try, but not likely.
Still Normal in the world of making almost anything.

Still worried? Buy used, or wait to visit a distributor that you can see, touch, and play the game you get
kicking all the tires till you are happy.

But if you want one...IMO, these last few bumps are minor.

#1987 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Thanks for the post old pin guy. I believe everything you say is correct and don't doubt it any at all. I just don't understand why Stern from the factory cannot put a little piece of plastic on the left ramp to cut down on air balls, or why they won't put taller lane guides on the machine so the ball doesn't jump the inlane and drain. I realize these problems can be fixed but why should the customer be the one that has to fix a poorly designed machine? I do realize that this is pinball and sometimes machines arrive with a couple of issues, but these are design flaws we are talking about here that are easy fixes that should be fixed by Stern.
I'm going to play a premium next week, not sure if it has the air ball protectors or not? I hope it doesn't have the protectors so I can see if it's a real problem or not. I gotta wonder, are the air balls really that bad on this machine? My WD will get an air ball from time to time off of the flipper but it doesn't happen too much so I don't care. When you hit the left ramp on GB though, are people getting that many air balls for real? I also have heard that the air balls get better after the machine has some plays on it. Not sure how that would help but I've heard that.

Oh, I agree with you!

The outlane posts being higher, or a rubber post would be a solution to a construction issue, or a wider plastic.
I think that one is true.

On things like left ramp plastic cover, I am guessing that because it is happening on a smaller percentage,
its not deemed, "defect". We need to think only of the playfield issue.....less than 5%, but because it gets posted, (rightfully), complained, chewed on, hashed about, it is the only thing people hear, and in conversation
months back, it appears people believed it was 95% happening.

Or like WOZ, I had two people in 2 weeks visit go.."Beautiful, but I wouldnt own it, the light boards fail".
True, some did, and fixed fast but magnified by our social interaction.

The air balls off the targets.....Oh yes, absolutely, they should have made a fix, but just maybe when I mentioned to George, Gary, and Dwight at the same time at the factory, that I was paying some medical bills with mine, to let me continue on.....I was only part joking. .

We spend our money, on a toy, and we want perfection. This is who we are today. If they made a game like Iron Man...not too much to go wrong. But every time we want something new. we are also the guinea pigs to test. Could you imagine the uproar if the magna slings didnt work?

I know some guys hate any analogies, but take Apple, or Samsung....Billions, and they make errors,
and people will complain rightfully....shit happens...factories making other components screw up.

Im not defending Stern...I too want as all others do, but I retired not only for health, but the difficulty
of perfection, and the magnification of any failure.

It is the reason that most vendors dont post much....one failure, and a shit storm can follow.
Repeat the failure, and its a GB Playfield Shitnado!

But Stern Does Listen, Playfield solutions in place and happening. Wire Guide bending on Captive ball...new piece engineered and sent out upon request. Half a dozen Goggles Broken, theres a new part to add.
Plastics...dont know.

What I know is I love playing the game....hundreds and hundreds so far, and it has brought great Joy.
Those just getting their game now, are finding these issues for themselves, and its what we talk about.
Not much Strategy, Pics of Kids in Joy playing, Even the Ecto Goggles, peppers ghost, now "known", not even discussed on Dialed in..the new animations just added.

Its simply how we approach this forum, and how the flow goes here.....some positive, some negative, but like an accident on the side of the road, we tend to stop and gravitate towards the negative....

#2034 1 year ago

I couldnt find them as washers in a hardware store, but they would be shooter lane washers.

If you loosen the grub screw, and raise to the level you wish, you can tighten without washers,
and mine is holding fine for 4 months...no washers.

#2040 1 year ago

Theres the pics you need.....Certainly add the washers if you feel the need....every game has such slight differences.

You can also lower the Captive ball Plate, by removing the 3 washers as well.

I have received my outlane and sling shot protectorproto production samples. I will be installing and testing tomorrow, and if all OK, will share photos, and start taking orders. With and without decals, Im expecting $29 including shipping, and the 3 piece set to be about $45
shipped, helping with lower costs.

I believe it to be the best choice out there for Premium and LE.....more to come.....

#2043 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Also, maybe a dumb question, but what are the sling protectors for exactly? Are people getting airballs from those too?
Last one, is there a reason for wanting to lower the Captive Ball Plate? Sorry for all the questions...

The Sling Protectors accomplish 2 primary goals. First, but the outlanes, this Plastic is high enough to catch the lane skips, as others, but "larger" to help with the 45 degree outlane drains. In addition, these wrap around the full Sling shot Plastic.
This protects the whole plastic from Chipping, especially when this might happen in Multi Ball.
Other Products are not wrapping far enough the Bottom corner, where slings always chip.

Lowering the Captive ball Plate and/or Raising Slimer, can keep his Butt from Dragging across the metal, sometimes producing Phantom hits.

#2050 1 year ago

There are 1/2 circle mirror Mods, with somewhat difficult instructions, to remove the screws and mount.

I chose 2 small pieces of double sided foam tape, raised a bit, like above, and accomplished quite well
and fast!

#2078 1 year ago

Finally received My Protos back, and am very pleased!

This GB Lane and Sling Guard not only stops outlane Hops better than most, it also is a full sling shot protector! Full Coverage!

I wanted one that did both, but I also did not want to cover up the Great Artwork, with a Colored Plastic.

A decal is coming shortly, just to cover the left wire lanes and complete the look, if desired.

Getting a Store up shortly, Ill be taking orders, as with the Holidays, these will take about 4 weeks to arrive.

Expected to be $29 including shipping, and Ill be bundling with the air guard.

Many Many hours to tweak this, so far for Premium and LE.

Art

GB Lane and Sling Guard (resized).jpg

GB Lane and Sling Guard2 (resized).jpg

GB Lane and Sling Guard3 (resized).jpg

#2082 1 year ago
Quoted from jar155:

Those look perfect.

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Those look nice old Pin guy. If I get a GB I will have to have a set of those for sure.

Thank you very much! One kind word, makes all the work worthwhile!

Quoted from embryon:

Would you consider posting to australia?

Of course! I have always enjoyed shipping almost anywhere in the world.

I need to test pack and weigh, but I am hoping/believing, shipping overseas to be between $5-$8
more...

#2084 1 year ago

Ill have the store up by the end of the day with everything one needs!

Thanks!

#2089 1 year ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I really find this mod to be one of the best things I have done on my game, and also one of the easiest. I cut down some black post rubbers, put a slit in them and then placed them on the top of the outlane guides. It really helps with ball control, reduces ball hopping and makes the outlanes a little more forgiving. I know others have done something similar, but I thought I'd share my 2 cents.
Rob

Thats a Great way to go Rob, and I have done it to mine!

I did have some issues with them staying on, so out came the glue!

Where I am now is gluing this to the underside of the protector and slit, so the plastic is helping with the hold.
I am not sure yet whether it will be needed to glue to lane guide as well.

Has yours been hit, and flown off?

I found it helps best with a nudge and energy transfer. Instead of bricking metal against metal, it allows a nudge for lane control we all enjoy.

It helped with lane hops too, cutting them down 25%-30%.

Ultimately, nothing to lose to try...

Im happy keeping them both!

#2090 1 year ago
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:

Anyone have a issue with Air Ball Protector on a pro were it make slimer not reg hits because it hits the plastic when hit? If i take it off works fine and mines a nov build with newer slimer mech

You have have to consider a file or dremel, and cut out an indentation for slimers butt!

#2096 1 year ago

Your likely right, Rob.

It could be the height...I dont have much height on my rails to do so, so I started with post rings.
Ill check again...I have Cliffy, Titan, regular, and Thin Stern.
Which did you use?

I only tried a Cliffy Post sleeve.....

#2113 1 year ago

You are seeing an issue in the plastic, and while it should not be there, IMO, It is "Normal" for this game.

#2137 1 year ago
Quoted from JimB:

I keep getting airballs hitting the glass on the way up the storage ramp. We need a plastic to cover the entire ramp. I tried the coil strength already. Can someone confirm the coil strength setting name?

Really weird....you may be the 7th or 8th person to mention this need.
Personally, I have never had this happen.

I fail to understand why.

Unless there is a need for hundreds, you might have to craft one yourself.
Or find something existing for another game, and see if you can adapt it.

#2141 1 year ago

He needs a piece of plastic that covers the whole ramp.

Tough to anchor.

#2143 1 year ago

No worries here...thought maybe you had something you made that would help him.

I can only think of something anchored at the top plastic, but short of drilling the ramp,
has anyone made a 1-off full ramp plastic?

(thanks for the agreeable "Stars" post! )

#2179 1 year ago

Raise the back of the game, Lower the Coil setting Power on the flippers, Shim the rear of the ramp with washers, build and solve a ramp cover that no one has made yet.

#2185 1 year ago

Mine had issues as well, and Im not fond of the anchor points through the playfield.

With so much movement of the VUK kicking out, Im surprised there are not more Anchor points.
id love to see Point 1 really Solid, and the back two adjustable in a small arc, with an effective track and thumb screws.

It would take anyone 5 minutes to adjust the scoop to their choice, and with markings share this setting with others.

All problems, and future problems of service would be solved.

I wish they would start thinking this way with many aspects.

Making the game more user friendly for adjustments and service.

#2198 1 year ago
Quoted from dawasa:

My Slimer has metal protruding out from underneath. Is this a problem that needs to be addressed? Does slimer bottom ever touch playfield?

Yes, that should be trimmed down.

Before you do, make sure you have enough material left soldered.

At the beginning of this thread, somewhere, and repeated a bunch, are pics, how to do, how to raise, using grub screw...

Someone might have the specific post #....

#2201 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I would make slimer's bottom 1/2 ball height off the playfield.

New Unit of measurement, Chuck? 1/2 Ball height? Great!

I have my Levelers in the back, 7/8 Ball Height!

#2220 1 year ago

None here either.....bunches of strips and such added.....

#2237 1 year ago

Yes, i changed to glo balls, and it has helped.

I have not seen a way to anchor a plastic at the top of the ramp, short of extending down from current.

Based on dialogue, there are some 15-30 people so far having this issue. So far not enough to spend the time
to make for distribution.

Many have solved by lowering coil strength a bit.

The little I had a reduced by dropping the coil, but I also put some slime decals from Laseriffiv up the ramp.
This little extra friction, the ball going over it as it goes up seems to help too.

maybe someone can test putting a clear stripe of removable mylar up the ramp, to see if it keeps the ball
any better from becoming airbourne.

#2264 1 year ago

Kinda like my dog butt-scooting?

1 week later
#2323 1 year ago

It decreases dramatically, Adam, after a while.....I went from this happening once every 10 games, to hardly any at all.

The adjustment solutions....all do work if needed...just enjoy the crazy way the game plays!

#2325 1 year ago

My pleasure! 3 or 4 sets left for a bit.
Too cold to cut, Im told.

2 weeks later
1 week later
#2505 1 year ago

An affordable, well working set from me......

3 weeks later
#2605 1 year ago

Thanks for sharing.

It appears some Pros coming out are getting assembled a little different.

Heres a Pic to ovalize the Protector Holes, it can go in the other direction, if needed, that will allow
some adjustment with regard to targets or slimer.

I heard from another customer, who too a dremel and sanding disk, and by viewing top down, fingernail cut out a small dent area for Slimers Butt.

Equally, is something I havent done, as I dont have a Pro is the Switch adjustment...Thank you for Sharing!!!

I have heard and done a shim on the Boom Mechanism below the playfield with washers under the back side, or front as needed to simply change the whole angle.

Interesting, as the variation seems to be up to 5mm in Assembly in distance variation

Hole lengthening2 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#2714 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I'm so tempted to pick up a GB, but 55 pages of issues/tweaks/fixes?! Is this game really that much of a POS? Not sure I want to go down that road.

Only about 4, hashed over a dozen times each......

#2818 1 year ago

Ive tied in with some self tapping T's, for Single Board tapping.

Kinda like this, there are different kinds out there.

pasted_image (resized).png

#2831 1 year ago

I have 3 7smd Strips running off of the Center City Bulb under the playfield, Another 7 SMD strip off of the firehouse, and assorted pads, as well.....so far no issues.....

#2882 1 year ago

It may be an energized magnet from the contacts touching on the slings, you can visually check them, or with the glass off, and you hearing the noise, see if the ball gets grabbed near a sling, if its more of a solenoid, see if the switch needs adjusting under the storage facility in the subway.

#2885 1 year ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

I think this might be it. The magnaslings don't seem to be "magnaslinging." The right slingshot is too tight and pressing the contact against the other. Should I bend the back contact or try to loosen the sling somehow?

Just gap, the contacts....2 sec...easy...small 1-1,5mm gap.

#2890 1 year ago
Quoted from bent98:

I installed that centerpost mod from pinball life and I am disappointing. The ball never seems to hit it and bounce back up. It just ricochets off to the side and drains. Anyone else have better luck with it?

I needed to change the screw on mine as if the center post or the whole support is loose in any way, it wont bounce back.

See if its solid, and has no wiggle or give.

#2900 1 year ago

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

2 weeks later
#3063 1 year ago

Nope, it raises his butt up and keeps it from hitting the buildings.

If yours is hitting the Black metal black cover, that can also be lowered a bit by removing the washers.

3 weeks later
#3164 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Also, my right flipper creates airballs up that ramp even with Art's protector. Wondering if raising the flipper to normal would make that flipper shot weaker so that there aren't as many airballs

If you are getting airballs from the ramp, youll need to check flipper strength, or the flap itself creating lift....even a cliffy on the scoleri target.

If its from the far right fixed target, the plastic can be adjusted for coverage and height.
In a few rare cases, it can fail due to an assembly that is very far off.

I have a customer who put foam, swinks angles, my plastic, modified my plastic, and says he still gets air balls.....no idea, but if you need help lowering the plastic or raising the height,shoot me a PM.

#3166 1 year ago

If there is not enough thread on the standoffs to add two washers and secure the nut, or it still doesnt clear, then you;ll need either 2 or 3 short stand-offs, 1/4" or less.

You would raise the 2 left anchor points, or all 3.

As one can note, the oval hole, where the boom comes up from below the playfield, has a large oval opening.
Depending on the playfield, how its dimpled and assembled, (Ramp, and Boom) can vary by as much as about 5mm is my guess in assembly. There is minimal difference in game play, but it causes the ramp itself to be in a different position relative to the captive ball anchor, and the left plastic anchor.

pasted_image (resized).png

#3189 1 year ago

.....ahhhh the ghosts are playing with your balls, Pez!

#3217 1 year ago

Thank you for sharing this.....important, and great to have found a solution!

1 week later
#3253 1 year ago

Remove the protector, and if sagging, search for flattening plastic, or raise the protector with washers, or standoffs.

My Right VUK goes everywhere...right, left, fast, slow, dribble to outlanes....is this with anyone else?

#3299 1 year ago

Reseat all connectors into boards should solve it.

#3301 1 year ago

Anytime!

If it happens again, see if you can isolate the connector, and it can be anchored tighter from there, if needed.

#3303 1 year ago

Nah, its about the only thing I know!

Turn on and off.
Bang on it
Duct tape it.
Reconnect it!

Works sometimes!

#3326 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

yes, it's not going all the way back and part of it is sticking out. So when the ball is coming through, it hits that tip and stops it enough so it can't make it up and out. So it just halfpipes back and forth in there until settling into the kickout hole.

I found no magic answers...more trial and error.

Ive bent things, Ive added washers, and Ive shimmed and zip tied the VUK assembly.

Even just a felt circle tab in the right place, to slow it down.

Sorry its not specific, but with a little luck, youll find some answer.....I chatted with someone who had a loose screw sitting in theirs for a while.....

#3346 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

oldpinguy - What were the posts you recommended to raise your ramp protector up? I need to do that as the ball catches on the protector so it is off now, but balls are flying around.

If 1-2 washers dont do it, youll need short 6-32 standoffs...1/4" or shorter.....

#3355 1 year ago

Just get 3.....I use them lots of places for Mods, and lighting. Male to Female, to thread the nut.

pasted_image (resized).png

#3360 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Just got done listening to the Pinball Podcast with Jeff, and was wondering if there have been issues with the main node boards (not the lamps), failing on Ghostbusters. Jeff mentioned this on his podcast and the cost of $300.00 to replace. Wanting to buy this game, but seems like there are a lot of issues still.

"
There are Random issues, that get magnified by a forum, as people come on to share any "issues" as opposed to hundred of people saying, "works great!"

There are a few tweaks, nothing any more than normal, and an occasional issue.

Great Game, selling extremely well, and Im enjoying it almost 1 year now.....

#3363 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I mean all you had to do was what? Invent a ramp air ball protector, lane hoping protector...standard stuff?

Ive hand made stuff for lots of games since the early 70's .....doesnt bother me, something I enjoy.

I dont share often, because people "want" or its not perfect at the 100% satisfaction/perfection rate required.

In this case GB was an A-, to a B+, and I'm damn happy about it!

If its something that bothers you, sorry to hear that.

#3383 1 year ago

Yes, essentially.

I cant guarantee to that this wont be to tall for your needs.

heres the 1/2" from PBL

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3586

Here is 1/4" on Ebay

http://tinyurl.com/ybqm5peo

Some Ace Hardware, and computer stores might carry as well.

Now the use of this is strictly to raise an aiur ball protector higher than 1-2 washers so a ball may pass
back underneath when it rolls backward, from an incomplete trip up the ramp.

I am aware of less than 5 people, globally, that have reached me with this issue, and it was more that
2 washers work...but there wasnt enough thread height to grab the nut.

1 month later
#3431 11 months ago
Quoted from Bond_Gadget_007:

"I would hope so. There's still a lot of bugs in it."
Was shocked to see a prem version of GB used in a recent Buffalo pinball tournament.. they turned off Scholari Brothers though. I'm sorry but this game has no business in tournys until bugs get fixed!

No bugs...Incomplete code, uneven scoring, and the novelty of the scoleri targets is generally not enjoyed in tournament play.

Owners hope Dwight will finish off the code and scoring imbalances, but no mechanical bugs that havent been addressed.

#3448 11 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

For the drop targets, wasn't it recommended you make the springs even tighter? aka pull down and connect it lower on the spring to make the drop more sensitive?

Spring adjust, or change, and/or adding washers are common tweaks to some new games.
Some, not all.

Yes, Stern could improve...at worst making any adjustments easier by a mile, and even lower
the percentage this has in production.

Its just the normal method of the forum, I have a target issue, complaint or help.
After one person starts, any mountain of replies follow and then it appears to people
as a major defect. Its not, nor will "perfection" be achieved.

Ive been adjusting Drop Targets since 1968 up to GB.
I have no issues with my drops on my GB out of box.

If it bothers someone, adjust, or turn them off.

3 weeks later
#3484 11 months ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

I'm sure its probably somewhere in this thread, but in my defense its 70 pages long, can someone tell me how to tweak Slimer (or do I need to call Stern for a part?) because it basically won't register when I hit it...and its completely useless right now.

Manually check to see if it registers.
If it does by hand, take the top plate off, and see if you need to raise or lower slimer.
If nothing registers, I'd start with distributor support, or share more details...pro, premium, etc, and more help will come.

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