(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

5 years ago

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  • 4,493 posts
  • 532 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by acep51
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (5 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (5 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (5 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (5 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (5 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (5 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (5 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (5 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#222 5 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Because it traps the captive ball, the stand up target never registers, and the drop targets then never come up.

What if for a location "hack" you put a second captive ball in there. One will get stuck at the top one at the bottom but there should be enough space for them to still hit and hit the target. Just until stern hopefully fixes this issue. Games definitely shouldn't have been shipped like this.


2 months later
#747 4 years ago

It's supposed to kick it to the right flipper.

I've only had one issue with my LE. If I shoot the main ramp and it doesn't make it out the exit you can see it rolling back and forth in the subway. Eventually it will fall sideways into the lock shot but if it takes to long to do that the game freezes up then the screen says resetting and the whole game resets.

#749 4 years ago

It's only happened twice and they were rough rattling shots. Didn't mind as the lock trough will kick it out eventually. Just weird it causes the game to crash and reset.

#752 4 years ago

Mine looks exactly the same on my le.

#757 4 years ago

My le has low outlanes and the ball hops over all the time

#767 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

The rails are raised now in production, as the LE received is just fine.

My LE guides are to low. Lots of ball hops over.

#779 4 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

game pitched at 7.5

Definitely on the high side spec is 6.5 to 7 with 6.5 being the norm.

#794 4 years ago

Your replacing the wrong spring there are 2 on the drop target assemble.

#859 4 years ago
Quoted from Ed209:

Have some strange technician alerts on my LE. Tested switches and everything is fine but they don't seem to clear. The weird thing is the alerts don't match the numbers or names in the manual.
These are the alerts..
Switch #52 left ramp enter (manual says 52 is pop bumper exit)
Switch #65 r. ramp exit (manual says 65 is left bank drop opto)
Switch #92 left ramp 2 (manual has no switch #92 for the LE)
Switch #93 left ramp 3 (manual has no switch #93 for the LE)
Anyone else seeing this on their LE? I also have no credit dot but I seem to remember hearing the complaint that they removed the credit dot with Spike.

Mine is the exact same way. I figured early code

#874 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Had a strange issue yesterday, I think it's likely just a one off but I'm pretty new to the hobby so I figured I'd check with pinside to see if there is something more I should check.
I was playing last night and had a ripping air ball that crashed over towards the newton balls on the left side and near the fire house. Not sure exactly where it went cause as soon as it crashed over there the entire playfield and backlight went dark. The only thing still on was the DMD which was frozen mid-animation for symmetrical book stacking. I turned the machine off and on and it was fine since then. Played another hour or so with no re-occurence.
any ideas? just a one off bug I figure? All in all I love the game and think its fantastic (GB PRO)...

Mine did that twice the first day i got it 2 weeks ago.the ball got lost in the subway. Has never done it since.

1 week later
#916 4 years ago

How do you adjust the slimer on the le so it hangs higher. mine is wearing the paint off the black metal piece above the captive ball.

#919 4 years ago

What's a grub screw?
It hits right beside the factory mylar.

#921 4 years ago

So I took my slimer mech apart as it was damaging the black metal above the captive ball. Can't figure out a way to adjust him higher but on the bottom of slimer the cable end was sticking out and dragging. the new mech set up is very different. it holds the cable grounded on the circuit board so it is normally closed. when the ball hits slimer it moves the wire off the circuit board ground and opens the connection.






#922 4 years ago



#923 4 years ago

Here's the mech from the bottom assembled. still sat a little low so I shimmed it up with 2 shooter rod washers.




1 week later
#1028 4 years ago

It's being launched to hard is there a setting to turn the auto launch coil power down?

#1029 4 years ago

I'm having a new issue with the subway. it used to happen once in awhile now it happened every time.
If you shoot the ramp the ball never makes it out of the subway anymore. Just teeters in there.
If I place it at the top of the drop it makes it but if I release it up at the switch it doesn't make it out

#1035 4 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I was also having this issue. I couldn't figure what was causing it and checked the ball path for obstructions and resistance but all checked ok. I then changed the incline from 6.5 to 6.7 degrees . This seemed to work almost one hundred percent when manually testing. Still seem to get 1 or 2 teeters a game still. The PKE shot also seems harder now at 6.7.
I called Chas at Stern about this. He was not sure what was causing it and went to the floor to inspect a game. He called me back and suggested it could be the diverter arm but it wasn't.
I also loosened both portions of the ramp (plastic and metal) a bit and shifted them around and retightened. Did not seem to help.

Ya I've tried different angles have it up around 7 still didn't fix it.

#1056 4 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Look into some threads as others have raised him and shaved his ass.
Strange they couldn't manage this monumental issue at the factory though...


I posted the damage and repair here

#1059 4 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

I raised my slimer mech by loosening the grub screw but it was still dragging after a few games. I found that the newer style slimer design with the spade connector has some vertical play. Gently pull it up as far as you can and zip tie it around the nearby locknut. Since I did this I have played dozens of full games and slimer never drags.

Or just add 2 shooter rod washers like I did here....

#1066 4 years ago
Quoted from pinchamp:

What did you do to fix? Washers installed and wire pulled out of his ass?

On mine i pulled the Wires in his ass down and
ground the end smooth on a bench grinder the glued the cable end back in place inside slimer.

#1125 4 years ago

why mess with raising slimer up more then the 2 washers just remove him and trim the bottom wire on a bench grinder.



#1135 4 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Did you mean to remove that wire compression fitting on the bottom altogether, then cut the wire shorter and install the compression nut higher?

No never remove the compression end. Sorry thought your wire was dragging. Mine doesnt drag anymore but still hit the building above the pops

#1190 4 years ago
Quoted from Flato:

So this is the program they came up with great probably charging for it to

Those are freebies in the goody bag have nothing to do with the playfield he was making a joke... also known as sarcasm.

#1208 4 years ago

Anybody notice the 2 coils they have mounted in the head? Looks like they are used to filter the sound.

#1220 4 years ago

I bend the arm on the switch not the bracket. Hold the bottom half of the switch arm in with your thumb and bend the arm in the middle not at the beginning where it comes out of the switch.

#1223 4 years ago

hold down at black arrow make very slight bend at Red arrow.

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#1229 4 years ago
Quoted from Tyamry:

Thanks. Did what you said, still would not register and the metal piece fell out!

Not a big deal the metal piece just clips back in. If you had you thumb pressed on it where it clips in when you bent it, it shouldn't have come out.
Turn the game on and start a game. Press the yellow button on the switch. Is it registering if you manually press it.

#1231 4 years ago

Hold down like this to bend.
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You only want a slight bend.
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If it comes off it just hooks back in with the two hooks on the end.
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1 month later
#1328 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just got our premium in today.
Everything works great but the subway.
The subway shot is horrible. The ball never comes back up for us and really ruins the flow of the game because it takes so long for the ball to settle into the under subway exit. it just rocks back and forth forever.
Really cuts into your score on "Loopin Supers" mode.
We probably played at least 10 four player games, so about 40 games or more and the ball made it out of the subway maybe 5 times.
Made sure the table was level. Tried raising and lowering the front and back legs, but nothing helped.
We had a blast playing but I sure hope we can get this fixed.
We did notice that when the ball comes flying around the upper part of the ramp is slams into the middle metal ring just before it dips down.

I had this exact same problem and it made my game unplayable. Fix was easy once i figured it out. Lift the playfield. where the metal ramp meets the plastic subway it can actually be moved to the left or right a tiny bit, you can loosen the mounting screws but i just used a little force and the metal ramp moved a little to the right and now it works 100%. not sure why they made the mounting point slotted for adjustment but easy to fix.

#1340 4 years ago

Why not get a airball deflector for 20 instead of that huge ugly wall?

#1341 4 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I can hit all shots off the tip and backhand the left saucer and ramp. I can backhand the, ok, who brought the dog shot from the right side as well.

I can do all this with the flippers at factory position.

1 week later
#1373 4 years ago
Quoted from djayc:

Great, thanks! I read through most of this thread, and even searched -- maybe my terms were off. It's a long thread
Thank you for the info, I'll give that a shot!

Here you go. I have the slimer adjust, the extra captive ball fix and switch bend fix all documented with pictures.


#1386 4 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

What do I do to fix a switch test error? I have 5 total out of the box

Nothing all the games have that its in the code. It should be fixed when there is a code update.

1 week later
#1422 4 years ago
Quoted from Bing_Party:

A little electrical tape in the first ring on the right slowed it down to where it hasn't happened yet. FIXED.

Are steel ball rolling over electrical tape will pick up the sticky glue off the side and more glue when it wears through leaving dirt and sticky stuff on your playfeild and subway.

#1425 4 years ago

Mine barely ever exited the subway just stopped back and forth till it eventually dropped. I thought it was speed to but that wasn't the issue.

I had this exact same problem and it made my game unplayable. Fix was easy once i figured it out. Lift the playfield. where the metal ramp meets the plastic subway it can actually be moved to the left or right a tiny bit, you can loosen the mounting screws but i just used a little force and the metal ramp moved a little to the right and now it works 100%. not sure why they made the mounting point slotted for adjustment but easy to fix.

1 week later
#1523 4 years ago
Quoted from madscientist101:

I cant figure out how to remove the slimer mech to add a washer to raise my slimer. I understand its a grub screw yet how do you get this off? Has anyone posted a video of doing it? what tools do you use?

It's a Allen head set screw. just give it one or two turns.

#1524 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

It's a Allen head set screw. just give it one or two turns.

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#1531 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I've wondered about all the ghosting & de-laminated inserts , if the shaker is partly responsible. A lot of LE owners talk about the inserts and every LE has a shaker motor. It makes sense that the shaker could rattle the inserts to the point that they crack free. If that happens, then its only a matter of time before it gets worse. I know people have had ghosting and no shaker, but the I'm suggesting the shaker could encourage the problem

So a shaker causes glue and clear to come loose ? Air balls cause way more stress on inserts then any shaker ever could and every model gets air balls

#1557 4 years ago
Quoted from Cdonnerusmc:

Not sure if it bas has been covered or not but I'm getting a Lot of 2 ball feeds? It's not every game or everyball but it happens quite a bit. Anyone know a fix for this? I have a premium.

Try unplugging and plugging back in the connector on the ball trough opto. Common issue on sterns.

2 weeks later
#1720 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So the guy at Ace Hardware just stared at me when I ask for 1 5/8" hex spacer.
Any one know where I could get one ?

What spacer are you changing? Pic?

#1730 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I had your slimer problem.
I re-adjusted the plates in slimer hanger and now he works great every time.
Loosen nuts, slide forward or back to get the steel-cable away from the edge-ring.
The idea is it cannot make contact while coming down.
I have a Premium 1.05
(1.10 was supposed to suppress slimer hits while coming down)
(1.11 added a software adjustment for slimer)

That's strange mine is adjusted tight against the front of the ring and come off the ring when you hit slimer and it works perfectly.

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