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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,465 posts
  • 526 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 days ago by cpr9999
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jaystile.
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#1405 4 years ago

Has anyone run into the issue with a drop target 'pulsing'? It sounds like it wants to drop but it just doesn't. It is not 'machine gunning' rapidly. Just a thump every half second. The target stills drops when I hit it, but sometimes it pops back up. The spring tension is the stock 'blue' spring.

#1406 4 years ago

I'm in the Diag > G.B. > LEFT DROP TARGET TEST, when I activate it the 'up' switch it seems to fire twice and then the 'down' switch doesn't work. If I rapidly test up then down it works fine. I have no answer to this.

#1415 4 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I'm in the Diag > G.B. > LEFT DROP TARGET TEST, when I activate it the 'up' switch it seems to fire twice and then the 'down' switch doesn't work. If I rapidly test up then down it works fine. I have no answer to this.

I figured it out. I have a bad opto board Stern part #520-5252-01 Rev A. I figured this out by swapping the boards between Nunzio and Tony Scoleri. The bad non registering behavior switched to Nunzio and the good registering behavior switched to Tony. I'm going to contact Trent to see if he can send me a new board as they are $60 on marcospecalties.com.

#1421 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Holy Smokes. I was just about to ask this question.
I saw it on my machine on day one and thought this has to be a bug, but then with the new code updates coming I started to think "I better make sure this is not a real problem".
So just to restate it: This a code bug.
"Tech Alert"
52 Check - has the wrong name on it
65 Check - has the wrong name on it
92 Check - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem
93 Check - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem
94 Check - Is called NOT USED - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem
See my video of the false switch reports: » YouTube video

I have the same #52, #92, #93 on my premium too. Propbably just a bug in the code. I do not have the other two errors though.

#1424 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Are steel ball rolling over electrical tape will pick up the sticky glue off the side and more glue when it wears through leaving dirt and sticky stuff on your playfeild and subway.

Your solution doesn't have to be electrical tape. The issue is that the ball is moving too fast down the ramp and dropping instead of sliding. Are there other ideas to slow the ball before the drop?

#1448 4 years ago

I was having trouble with my auto launcher kicking like a mule, shooting like a cannon, or firing like a rocket, please take your pick from the analogies. Today, I replaced the auto launcher spring with a heavier spring (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437) in the hope that the greater resistance will work against the coil magnet. It turns out it does! I test fired 20 balls and all of them fired normally like I had manually plunged them. I bet I didn't have to 'spring' for the heavier spring and could've just used another one of the finer gauge wire springs with 10 coils (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-128). It took me about 3 minutes to install it. Here is a picture of the comparison.

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#1488 4 years ago

I got a confirmation from Chas at Stern that putting in a stronger spring above the autolaunch coil can help reduce the kick and should not have any long term negative affects. I have noticed much smoother launches since the switch.

#1500 4 years ago

There seemed to be some confusion. According to the manual the 'Eject VUK' (Vertical Up Kick) coil is what causes the chipping in the shooting lane. The coil power can be adjusted in the service menu ADJ > G.B. > Feature Adjustment #11 - Trough Eject Power. Mine is set the lowest power 176. This helped a bit, but I have also installed a cliffy protector.

The other issue is the 'Auto Launch Assembly' firing way too hard. I was worried that is was going to crack the plastic on the back as most of the time the ball ricocheted off the wall into Stay Puft or came bouncing back down the shooting lane. This is what the replacement spring fix is for. Easy to replace.

1. Unscrew
2. Compress spring to raise up the coil off the coil stop.
3. Rotate everything out of the way, replace the spring, and reassemble.

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#1502 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Can't find trough power. Checked the path listed not there but on 1.05

I am running version 1.10. I think I remember that setting came in the later versions.

#1526 3 years ago
Quoted from madscientist101:

Thank you... Any one try the spring set to fix the scoleri brothers targets from pinball life? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4251
I had to adjust one of them to drop flush from factory... I do notice they don't drop very good yet I haven't put many plays on my game as I just set it up yesterday.

I've tried the springs from pinballlife. I find them to be too strong and pulled the drop target down without the ball touching it. I ended up removing about five or six coils from the factory installed springs and that worked just fine for me.

1 week later
#1589 3 years ago

Arrghh!!! I snapped the boom arm of slimer on my premium. I was trying to stop him from both hitting the city plastic and dragging his butt by bending the rod. I am so angry with myself. It seems that boom arm is like 1/4" too long.

#1593 3 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

Arrghh!!! I snapped the boom arm of slimer on my premium. I was trying to stop him from both hitting the city plastic and dragging his butt by bending the rod. I am so angry with myself. It seems that boom arm is like 1/4" too long.

I'm still kicking myself, but I patched the rod with a one inch spacer with a quarter inch bore and attached the two pieces and spacer with JB Weld. I filed off the paint and roughed up the interior of the spacer to form a good bond. Works great until I get a replacement piece. I swear the dimensions on that piece are just wrong. I did post my best score (1.6B) after the repair. I can post pictures later because the mobile upload is not working for me.

The short story is adjust slimer with the washers and do not bend the rod. The rod is not solid and has holes punched through it which are weak spots.

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1 week later
#1709 3 years ago

I'm running version 1.11 of the LE/Premium code, is anyone else seeing the Light Negative Reinforcement when collecting 40 ghosts not activating? Also, does Stern have a bug tracker?

5 months later
#3120 3 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.
Anyone else experience this?

I tried the shimming technique which raises Slimer up a bit and I still ended up with some drag. The core issue is that the wire it too long going through Slimer. I ended up just zip-tying up the slack and I haven't had a problem since.

If you look at the picture, I could've reset the crimp on the wire, but the zip tie works even if it is a bit of a hack.

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4 months later
#3492 3 years ago

I'm in the process of being made whole. I got a box to ship back my play field for a warranty replacement. Stern was breaking my heart there for a bit when my new in box game was shedding it's clearcoat but I am glad they are taking care of me (even if it was slow in coming). My buddy came over and helped me remove the play field. Removing the play field only required disconnecting 3 connectors and lifting it out, so that was easy. I'll be sad until the new one gets here. I'll update then.

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2 weeks later
#3504 3 years ago

I've got my replacement playfield for my Ghostbusters Premium. I hooked it back up and was running the diagnostics. I fixed most of the issues, but the Slimer motor test cannot seem to find 'home' and just rotates all the way to the end stop and you can hear the motor keep running. I swear I remember seeing a post about it, but I can't find it. Can you help me out?

4 weeks later
#3563 2 years ago

I'm still trying to diagnose my issues on my Ghostbusters Premium with slimer swinging fully clockwise on startup and then stopping there. Can someone confirm their wiring configuration connecting to the optical board connected to the slimer motor assembly? I've attached mine for reference and it is: Red; Pink/Yellow; Pink/Orange; Pink/Green; Black/Brown. I confirmed that the wires run to Node board 8 and are going to the correct pin, but I was unsure of the configuration in the connector to the optical board. I couldn't seem to find that in the manual.

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#3566 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Running the latest software? At least one of the earlier revisions did this.

Yes, I am running version 1.13 from http://www.sternpinball.com/games/ghostbusters/premium

I was going to do some continuity testing of the wires and I just wanted to make sure everything was going into the opto board as expected.

#3572 2 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I'm still trying to diagnose my issues on my Ghostbusters Premium with slimer swinging fully clockwise on startup and then stopping there. Can someone confirm their wiring configuration connecting to the optical board connected to the slimer motor assembly? I've attached mine for reference and it is: Red; Pink/Yellow; Pink/Orange; Pink/Green; Black/Brown. I confirmed that the wires run to Node board 8 and are going to the correct pin, but I was unsure of the configuration in the connector to the optical board. I couldn't seem to find that in the manual.

Chas from Stern support verified the wiring configuration is correct. While my slimer is still not working, I feel that Stern is taking care of me and we will get the issue resolved. Chas has shipped out replace opto boards, slimer motor assembly, and is now sending out the motor control board. I'm hoping that will be the final solution.

2 weeks later
#3589 2 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

Chas from Stern support verified the wiring configuration is correct. While my slimer is still not working, I feel that Stern is taking care of me and we will get the issue resolved. Chas has shipped out replace opto boards, slimer motor assembly, and is now sending out the motor control board. I'm hoping that will be the final solution.

I did install the new motor control board, but it no affect on slimer rotating fully clockwise and then stopping. Chas asked if I could ground the red/white and red/grey connection on the node8 board. This did cause slimer to rotate forward and backward confirming the motor is working. Next, he had me swap node8 and node9 boards as they are the same as long as you update the dip switches. This was to see if the node board is bad. The result was the same and slimer doesn't return home. Awaiting more debug instructions.

#3596 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I'm suspecting an opto or switch that tells slimer where he is.
If the board is good and the motor is good, then the board sounds confused as to where slimer is.
There are 2 optos on the slimer motor board.
Assuming there is not crud in the slots of the encoder wheel, then there is part 29 (520-6999-03) ENCODER OPTO AMPLIFIER ASSEMBLY

Yeah, we've already tried three opto boards, two motor control boards, two slimer motors, and swapping the node boards. It is probably something more subtle. Thanks for your thoughts, let me know if you have others!

(No, there is no crud in the encoder wheels.)

-1
#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Sounds like the only thing left is the wiring harness associated with slimer. Have you replaced those?

Thank you for your input. I performed a continuity checks from the opto board and motor control board to the node8 board and it checked out fine. I then verified with my multimeter that the opto board is getting its 5DC amps. I also pulled the opto board out and put the machine in active switch test mode and put a plastic poker chip in the sensor gap but no 'switch' was detected. I then tried the two other boards and they have the same behavior. Je suis un peu frustré.

#3616 2 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

Thank you for your input. I performed a continuity checks from the opto board and motor control board to the node8 board and it checked out fine. I then verified with my multimeter that the opto board is getting its 5DC amps. I also pulled the opto board out and put the machine in active switch test mode and put a plastic poker chip in the sensor gap but no 'switch' was detected. I then tried the two other boards and they have the same behavior. Je suis un peu frustré.

Success! I finally have slimer rotating back and forth. I had the opto board off and was testing it with my multimeter to check that the optos were triggering and they were. I reinstalled it and went into switch test mode. Chas says he usually tests the opto with a coin, so I thought I would try that instead of my poker chip. Anyway, I was getting no response to the coin, so I tried a couple of other switches to make sure I could test an opto switch. I dropped a Scoleri brothers target and it triggered. Then when I was moving the opto board around it triggered! I was shocked. It then started responding to the coin test. Long story short, make sure all your wires are firmly seated in the molex connector! (I can't believe it took me this long to figure it out) Thank you, everyone for your advise and assistance. Hopefully, this will prove useful to someone else.

While the end solution did not ultimately come from Chas at Stern or Trent from Tilt Amusements, they both were very supportive and gave me a lot of things to try. Now, I have to send back all those extra parts Chas sent me. The next step was that they were going to send a tech out to look at it.

3 months later
#3870 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

unfortunatly that is not the problem,thank you though, I checked right away,but can see the ledge is fine. I can manually push it up with game off and stays up fine. With game on it just will NOT stay up?

I had experienced something like this. The brother would pop up and straight back down again. My opto was bad. Try swapping the opto with the other brother and see if it starts working. (But then your other brother will be bad!)

#3876 2 years ago
Quoted from LowScores:

Anyone have advice on the slimer calibration?
I had an issue where he would move all the way over by the firehouse and sit there during games. In test mode, he would move with each advance press to the next position and then back home again...no issues.
I tried running the calibration..and it errored out. It looked like it couldn't get to the 92 (of 100+) for its end of position.
Now he's in worse shape lol.
Here is a video. This slimer appears to not be registering the position changes. I checked the cables and they all appeared connected. Machine is on 1.13.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/apGjCkjQ8cy9sca17
I dont know if the opto is freaking out? Is there a way to test?
(pinballnut3 was helping me tshoot)

Testing the opto is pretty straightforward. You need to detach it from the mech and then pass a coin through it while in switch test mode. Good luck.

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