Has anyone run into the issue with a drop target 'pulsing'? It sounds like it wants to drop but it just doesn't. It is not 'machine gunning' rapidly. Just a thump every half second. The target stills drops when I hit it, but sometimes it pops back up. The spring tension is the stock 'blue' spring.

I'm in the Diag > G.B. > LEFT DROP TARGET TEST, when I activate it the 'up' switch it seems to fire twice and then the 'down' switch doesn't work. If I rapidly test up then down it works fine. I have no answer to this.

I figured it out. I have a bad opto board Stern part #520-5252-01 Rev A. I figured this out by swapping the boards between Nunzio and Tony Scoleri. The bad non registering behavior switched to Nunzio and the good registering behavior switched to Tony. I'm going to contact Trent to see if he can send me a new board as they are $60 on marcospecalties.com.

I have the same #52, #92, #93 on my premium too. Propbably just a bug in the code. I do not have the other two errors though.

Your solution doesn't have to be electrical tape. The issue is that the ball is moving too fast down the ramp and dropping instead of sliding. Are there other ideas to slow the ball before the drop?

I am running version 1.10. I think I remember that setting came in the later versions.

I've tried the springs from pinballlife. I find them to be too strong and pulled the drop target down without the ball touching it. I ended up removing about five or six coils from the factory installed springs and that worked just fine for me.

Arrghh!!! I snapped the boom arm of slimer on my premium. I was trying to stop him from both hitting the city plastic and dragging his butt by bending the rod. I am so angry with myself. It seems that boom arm is like 1/4" too long.

I'm still kicking myself, but I patched the rod with a one inch spacer with a quarter inch bore and attached the two pieces and spacer with JB Weld. I filed off the paint and roughed up the interior of the spacer to form a good bond. Works great until I get a replacement piece. I swear the dimensions on that piece are just wrong. I did post my best score (1.6B) after the repair. I can post pictures later because the mobile upload is not working for me.

The short story is adjust slimer with the washers and do not bend the rod. The rod is not solid and has holes punched through it which are weak spots.

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I'm running version 1.11 of the LE/Premium code, is anyone else seeing the Light Negative Reinforcement when collecting 40 ghosts not activating? Also, does Stern have a bug tracker?

I tried the shimming technique which raises Slimer up a bit and I still ended up with some drag. The core issue is that the wire it too long going through Slimer. I ended up just zip-tying up the slack and I haven't had a problem since.

If you look at the picture, I could've reset the crimp on the wire, but the zip tie works even if it is a bit of a hack.

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I'm in the process of being made whole. I got a box to ship back my play field for a warranty replacement. Stern was breaking my heart there for a bit when my new in box game was shedding it's clearcoat but I am glad they are taking care of me (even if it was slow in coming). My buddy came over and helped me remove the play field. Removing the play field only required disconnecting 3 connectors and lifting it out, so that was easy. I'll be sad until the new one gets here. I'll update then.

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I've got my replacement playfield for my Ghostbusters Premium. I hooked it back up and was running the diagnostics. I fixed most of the issues, but the Slimer motor test cannot seem to find 'home' and just rotates all the way to the end stop and you can hear the motor keep running. I swear I remember seeing a post about it, but I can't find it. Can you help me out?

I'm still trying to diagnose my issues on my Ghostbusters Premium with slimer swinging fully clockwise on startup and then stopping there. Can someone confirm their wiring configuration connecting to the optical board connected to the slimer motor assembly? I've attached mine for reference and it is: Red; Pink/Yellow; Pink/Orange; Pink/Green; Black/Brown. I confirmed that the wires run to Node board 8 and are going to the correct pin, but I was unsure of the configuration in the connector to the optical board. I couldn't seem to find that in the manual.

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Yes, I am running version 1.13 from http://www.sternpinball.com/games/ghostbusters/premium

I was going to do some continuity testing of the wires and I just wanted to make sure everything was going into the opto board as expected.

Chas from Stern support verified the wiring configuration is correct. While my slimer is still not working, I feel that Stern is taking care of me and we will get the issue resolved. Chas has shipped out replace opto boards, slimer motor assembly, and is now sending out the motor control board. I'm hoping that will be the final solution.

I did install the new motor control board, but it no affect on slimer rotating fully clockwise and then stopping. Chas asked if I could ground the red/white and red/grey connection on the node8 board. This did cause slimer to rotate forward and backward confirming the motor is working. Next, he had me swap node8 and node9 boards as they are the same as long as you update the dip switches. This was to see if the node board is bad. The result was the same and slimer doesn't return home. Awaiting more debug instructions.

Yeah, we've already tried three opto boards, two motor control boards, two slimer motors, and swapping the node boards. It is probably something more subtle. Thanks for your thoughts, let me know if you have others!

(No, there is no crud in the encoder wheels.)

Thank you for your input. I performed a continuity checks from the opto board and motor control board to the node8 board and it checked out fine. I then verified with my multimeter that the opto board is getting its 5DC amps. I also pulled the opto board out and put the machine in active switch test mode and put a plastic poker chip in the sensor gap but no 'switch' was detected. I then tried the two other boards and they have the same behavior. Je suis un peu frustré.

Success! I finally have slimer rotating back and forth. I had the opto board off and was testing it with my multimeter to check that the optos were triggering and they were. I reinstalled it and went into switch test mode. Chas says he usually tests the opto with a coin, so I thought I would try that instead of my poker chip. Anyway, I was getting no response to the coin, so I tried a couple of other switches to make sure I could test an opto switch. I dropped a Scoleri brothers target and it triggered. Then when I was moving the opto board around it triggered! I was shocked. It then started responding to the coin test. Long story short, make sure all your wires are firmly seated in the molex connector! (I can't believe it took me this long to figure it out) Thank you, everyone for your advise and assistance. Hopefully, this will prove useful to someone else.

While the end solution did not ultimately come from Chas at Stern or Trent from Tilt Amusements, they both were very supportive and gave me a lot of things to try. Now, I have to send back all those extra parts Chas sent me. The next step was that they were going to send a tech out to look at it.

I had experienced something like this. The brother would pop up and straight back down again. My opto was bad. Try swapping the opto with the other brother and see if it starts working. (But then your other brother will be bad!)

Testing the opto is pretty straightforward. You need to detach it from the mech and then pass a coin through it while in switch test mode. Good luck.