Yeah...... But that kinda blows. Now you have to wait posssibly weeks for a mistake on their end ? If this was a car you would get a loaner.

Also I have had new complete PFs that have had light damage during shipping. It was nice to be able to swap the parts as needed to have a damage free game.

What plastics did you break so others can make a protector

So far so good. Beautiful playfield with nice thick clear. Definitely different than ones I've seen. Thick like me TWD. Has stamp and hand written date. Build 11/10, playfield 11/3.

They raised the outline guides , slimer don't hit and quality control looks waaaaay up on this one.

Hope it stays this way on this GORGEOUS game

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So the big question ..... again. Should I update code Ti 1.11 or stick with 1.05. Seems odd that the factory just shipped the game and that's what's they shipped with. Build date 11/10

Found a few small issues.
One , they have the wrong type of switch on my left ramp. And it's bad. Supposed to be a micro rollover and they have a light touch standard on. They are sending that and one other out

I wanted my slings to be more sensitive...... from the factory the sling rubber is on the high tier making it have more throw to activate switch

Also when the ball would hit the rubber it would push it upward instead of straight back

Putting it on the lower worked fantastic and it at the regular height like most games

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Does anyone else have a standard micro switch on their left ramp. According to the part # it's supposed to be a roller micro 180-5119-02. Like a trough switch. Looks like many got a standard switch.

I think this is all code .. found this on post 857

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/18#post-3268868

OMG...... Never seen anyone do that before.

Spoke with Chaz and he 100% agrees it should be a roller switch just like the trough switches used to be. Either way mine is flaky so its getting changed out when it arrives. I will let ya know

One of the few 50 cent mods out there that instantly drops the value of the game by 1k. Ooooooof Too many other ways to accomplish the same task with drill into the PF, As long as your happy is all that counts.

Mid 2003

Has anyone mylar'd the scoleri brother holes.... not really into cliffys on those.

Chuck get some games on yours and report back in a few days. Considering doing the same.

Code issues not switch problems

Had to change mine out also. They would not register all the time. Call stern

Turn down you trough power to the bare minimum...... I think 26 it will be nice and soft with only one ball ejected

Chuck, for me it was not the switch. The game was kicking the ball out too hard and making it bounce up the trough thinking no ball was there. Adjusted trough eject power and problem solved....... Plus as a bonus its soooo smooth I dont even think it will be hard on the shooter lane

Had my first real issue

Scoop weldment broke no more fun this weekend

Gotta call Chaz Monday. Oh well

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No just some crap from heat shrink. I just scratched off and the casing is fine

Yep....... they tig weld a nice gusset on the scoop and it breaks where the scoop attaches to the coil housing. Just fking spot welds on it

If my opinion is worth anything, went back and forth on this for two months. Had extensive play on both and was weighing value vs options and price.

The premium just has too much going for it in cool features. The pro is great and an excellent value but the extras sold me even on the much higher prive point

So far what I have done is raised the switch a little by adding a spacer bar ( like the one on the top )to the bottom of the switch as I feel its moving so fast that when it exits the plastic ramp its slightly riding over the switch.... not sure.. Seems better but not perfect .I also think im going to lower my plastic top cover to get the ball down quicker.

R loop

Ok ....... as I suggested. The ball was traveling so fast that when exiting the ramp onto the wireform it was slightly air bound when hitting the switch

I took the front spacer and put in the back and added a 1/8 inch spacer in the front with a shorter bolt

I am getting 100% switch register 25 for 25. I am confident that this was the issue

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Redid my PKE brackets. I am short, 5,5" so I could never see the P or K. Added about an inch in the new brackets and riveted back on

I painted them flat black so they would not stand out

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Yeh..... those screws suck. I used a 1/4 ratchet with 12 " extention and a swivel

Only real issues im having anymore is the rattle every 4-5 shot on the right orbit.

Playfield still looks excellent ( no chipping, ghosting or sunk inserts ) except for the usually dimpling all over.

Normal crazing. Happens during the sanding process when it opens fissures in the insert At the very minimum you can rest a sure the clear has a good bite on the insert and should not ghost

This is definatly the case..... I replaced both ramp switch"s and lowered my R Ramp cover plastic and no get zero misreads. Just snug the screws till they just touch plus a little extra. ( I would replace also ).

Ok .... Im on 1.12 now.... Got to we came, we saw we kicked some ass but the insert never lit and the ghosts never went about 80. Anyone else have this issue.

Also Slimer sometimes does not light solid on the first play after turning on sometimes.

So theres no one on here that can verify this ? Any info would be helpful.

My scoop already broke. Screws are from the top under the plastic. They use two tiny Allen head bolts

Yep. Replaced the left one as it was assembled to tight and damaged the switch. manual called for a roller switch that Stern sent me but they dont have enough throw... I had these at home. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5087-00

I replaced with this after I rebent and trimmed down . It stays actuated longed when the balls traveling super fast 100% registers. As for the right switch, lower your ramp cover plastic and adjust switch also.

Make sure your gate is not touching the plastic and lower the gate by tweaking up or down till the ball just barley goes threw with the gate while fully up so it has the slightest of drag without trapping the ball.

I have used no cliffys on my 11/16 PF so far. Eject on lowest power, mylar on shooter, coil settings on low, outholes covered with cliffy factory style protector, mylar on S/B bro targets and adjusted correctly so the height of the target is a ( c@#t hair above the PF ). No issue thus far after two months.

Ball will not even touch the S/B target edge if adjusted correctly . Take your time and do it right. Adjust a second time after 100 plays or so after it settles.

No...Made a rectangle with rounded the edges. Cleaned PF with rubbing alcohol. Installed the mylar then used an exacto knife and carefully cut out the inside around the edge and removed excess.

Two screws on each assembly. Only adjust 1/16 to 1/8 turn each time you measure. Use a credit card and slide along PF so the card barely hits the target. That way the ball will never touch the edge

I disagree, as the angle of the target would let it glide downward. Not saying this dose not happen but the main issue is from the ball striking the PF edge.

Main wear is from the ball hitting the edge period. Look at MB,AFM,MM, TAF.... ect, ect .Same effect on games with drop targets. Theres an edge to wear. Why do you think games have wear at the inserts. Its because they are not perfectly even when they raise or sink.

Trust me if you ask Cliffy Im sure he will tell you the same thing. From the ball hitting the edge of a not perfectly smooth surface and not because the drop is rubbing as it goes down.

Mine is also not wrapped. 11/16 build. My hands stay on the lockdown when playing so im not too concerned

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Here too.... I wouldnt mind making one or two for when it does .

THX!!!

Seems with that kind of breakage its routed. Almost hard to believe that could break.