(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (3 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #709 Videos of the Pinballlife outlane plastics in use for GB Posted by Pinzzz (3 years ago)

Post #876 tatman9999 photos of his Titan Rubbers in green on GB Posted by tatman9999 (3 years ago)

Post #1034 Photos of mismatched flipper side rails installed on factory game Posted by Trekkie1978 (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2252 2 years ago

Just picked up my premium yesterday, and I'm trying to figure out if my switches and gates are working properly. When is a shot to the ecto goggles supposed to go all the way around, and when is the gate supposed to stop it and direct it to the pops? The ball is sometimes getting hung up. I think this is caused by the left controlled gate, but it may also be an issue with the right gate. For example, a hard plunge seems to slow down at the left gate, but I think that could be because the right gate is slightly altering the trajectory. A slightly softer plunge seems to make it all the way around just fine. Does anyone have any insight into what might be going on here?

#2282 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

... mylar on S/B bro targets

You put mylar on the target itself?

#2284 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I changed my spring on the autolauncher and I noticed that whenever the autolauncher is used, the ball will not orbit but instead gets sent down to the PKE letters. Can anyone confirm that this is normal? Seems that the gate is intentionally staying closed to not let the ball through. For example, a "saved ball" will get autolaunched......

I'd like to know the answer to this as well. When exactly is the gate supposed to be open, and when is it supposed to be closed?

#2287 2 years ago

Is the purpose of the cliffy to protect against the ball striking the edge of the playfield, or to protect against the targets bashing into the playfield after being struck by the ball?

#2299 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hmmmnn, ill have to test while the skill shot is still available.

It's easy to test it. Just do a full plunge and don't flip. Most likely, the ball will drain before the hitting one of the skill shots and before the ball saver runs out.

#2303 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Huh? My issue is with the autolauncher, not the plunge...

I thought you were trying to test if the left gate opens on an autolaunch if the skill shot is still active. I was simply suggesting an easy method to test this without taking off the glass.

#2305 2 years ago
Quoted from Swainer80:

Is anyone else having problems with the right orbit? If you rip a shot into it . . . the ball jumps or hits Stay Puft or goes in the shooter lane or any place other than going smoothly trough the orbit. I can understand the airballs but that orbit shot is a pisser.

This problem is being discussed over in the other thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/39#post-3536295

I think there are a couple of factors at play. A fast moving ball tends to get some air as it passes over the drop target. Combine this with the hairpin turn at the back of the orbit, and it's a recipe for disaster. Some have indicated that the problem can be tamed somewhat by increasing the playfield pitch to 6.5 or even 7 degrees, and making sure that your game is precisely level. You should also verify that your drop target is sitting as flush as possible with the playfield. If you're having problems with that switch registering, try adjusting it so it is more sensitive.

#2329 2 years ago

There are two flashers on the backboard. I noticed during test mode that the one on the right is not nearly as bright as the one on the left. Is this normal, or do I need to take a closer look at what might be going on?

#2337 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

1 5/8" hex post. Female threaded on both ends. 6/32 screw size.

How much shorter is that than the stock one?

#2339 2 years ago

How deep do the threads go? Can one simply take a stock post and grind it down a bit? I probably wouldn't need the full 3/8 inches removed. A hard shot on my game will always make it all the way around. It's just the lighter shots that occasionally get rejected. I'm thinking a very small change will make the shot perfect.

#2347 2 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Where is the post don't even see it on my premium?

It's the hex post holding up the right ramp? There is a screw that secures the habitrail to it.

#2359 2 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

So I don't see the hex post on mine is it different ?

See the screw circled in red? It is screwed into the hex post ...

Hex post (resized).jpg

#2362 2 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Edit: ducking Gweem and your ten seconds TWICE now...

You gotta wake up pretty early in the morning to beat the gweemster ....

#2367 2 years ago

I'm about to place an order from Pinball Life. Has anyone installed this captive ball wireform support?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4378

Is it necessary?

#2371 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Newer playfields do not need this part. Stern added it's own part. If your playfield is missing the stern support plate call chas at tech support to get a free one.

Thanks for the info! I just checked my game and, sure enough, there is solid piece of metal flanking that entire wire form. That sucker isn't budging.

#2395 2 years ago

I finally got around to installing all the cliffys last night. The one closest to the trough is kind of a pain in the ass. You have to hammer those little screw things out from the underside, and then you have to be super careful when you tighten them so you don't bend the cliffy.

While I was at it, I installed the shorter hex post for the right ramp. It definitely makes it easier to consistently hit the shot. I also replaced the original orange shooter spring with a green one. It makes a full plunge more likely to make it all the way around, but it's still not perfect. I really wish there was an easy way to tweak those gates. I'd love to slightly adjust the height of them, but this is difficult because of the way they're mounted.

#2411 2 years ago
Quoted from jrio101:

Mine does the same thing. It seems to be the ball is jumping over the switch when it goes around the bend past the ecto goggles. Anyone have a solution to this (maybe a taller roll over?)

Quoted from DerGoetz:

But how would one explain the random opto behavior. The switch arm I will bend, the opto I do not understand as again, the ectogoggles will 'shoot the ghost' when the ball passes but the mode insert(s) will NOT trigger....

It's because the two things are registered by different switches. I was confused about this as well when I first got the game. The ghost in the ecto goggles is destroyed when the opto is tripped. The insert won't register a hit until the ball has traveled further and tripped the switch at the far back right of the game behind staypuft. It sounds like your opto is working fine and registering 100% of the time. It's the other switch that is the problem. Unfortunately, it's a bad design. The ball comes ripping around that corner at a high velocity and often with some air. This is why the switch isn't registering consistently. Some people have had luck slightly tweaking the actuator so that the switch can be triggered more easily.

#2420 2 years ago

Is there something different about the flipper design on this game? I'm having trouble dialing them in so I can do the little finesse moves like tip passes. The EOS on both flippers seems fine, and I've adjusted both flipper button switch gaps, but I still can't get it to be as responsive as I'd like.

#2429 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

My game had the same issue and then just magically started working right last week. lol
I assume you are referring to letting the ball roll up a trapped flipper, and then lightly tapping the flipper button to get the flipper to just barely move and tap the ball to the other flipper.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm referring to. It's the partial flip you use when the ball is slowly rolling up one flipper and you want to give it some very slight upward momentum so that it will sail over the flipper gap. I can do this on all my Sterns, even on my GoT which is also a Spike game, but it seems much harder to do it on GB. Is there an adjustment I can make to fix this?

Edit: I adjusted the flipper button gap again and made it just a little bit wider. This helped. It's still not quite as responsive as some of my other games, but it's now a bit easier do the partial flip.

#2438 2 years ago

I just noticed while playing tonight that the cabinet decal is starting to fray a bit at the left side edge near the front of the game. I assume this is happening because the exposed edge of the decal is constantly being rubbed by my hand while flipping. This is the only Stern I own where the decals don't wrap around the edge. You can see from the photos that there is a gap between the side decals and the front decal on both sides of the game. Are all Ghostbuster premiums like this, or did they mess mine up at the factory?

P1070940 (resized).JPG
P1070936 (resized).JPG

#2445 2 years ago

So it looks like I'm not alone, at least not when it comes to the more recent builds (mine is October). Why did Stern stop wrapping the decals? Was it to save money on the extra couple inches? What a terrible decision.

#2448 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I have a November playfield on my GB premium and it's like that as well, just looked .
I seem to be mentioning this stuff alot lately, but maybe throw some of that clear removable mylar around the corner and down both sides to " wrap " it . Maybe cover about a 1/2 in of each decal , front and side, then apply the mylar vertically down the cabinet corner.

amazon.com link »

Yep. That's about the only way I can think of to address this problem.

#2451 2 years ago

Does anyone make a full set of plastic protectors for this game? I already have some for the slings, but I'd like to protect the other plastics as well. The action on this game is more wild than any other game I can think of.

#2457 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

No matter what I do,the start button won't come on to start the Game???

Did the wire to the start button get knocked loose?

#2459 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

NO,there was a pin in the connector to the topper,that was bent!!! Took 2 hours to find,thank you for your response!!!

I'm confused. It won't let you start a game if the topper isn't connected properly?

#2472 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Doesn't the protector that they put on at the factory work good? How come people are putting this protector on?

The protector from the factory only protects against a ball coming in from the side and striking the LCD. It offers no protection whatsoever for the mirror.

#2476 2 years ago

I received some of the removable mylar from Amazon, and I plan on using it to protect the exposed edges of the decals. Before I can put it on, I need to trim a tiny bit of the decal along the edge where it is starting to fray. What is the best way to trim the decal? Would an Exacto knife work?

GB decal (resized).jpg

#2478 2 years ago

All fixed!!!

I trimmed the edge of the decal with an Exacto knife, touched up the paint, and sealed off the entire corner with a strip of mylar. It came out great and should protect the decal nicely.

P1070943 (resized).JPG

#2485 2 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Thanks. Got a link to what you bought?

I used the exact stuff that chucksmith recommended to fix the issue with my decals. I also installed some on the playfield to protect the area around both drop targets. This is the first time I've used this product, and it's awesome. I have no idea how well it will hold up over time, but it's very thin and very easy to work with. It's also almost completely invisible once installed.

Here's a link to it:

amazon.com link »

And he wasn't kidding when he said it comes in a large roll. Holy smokes!!! When the box arrived, I had no idea what was in it. I didn't remember ordering anything that would come in such a large oblong package. I guess I now have a lifetime supply!

#2487 2 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

haha ok, I found this seem half the length might be a better option?

amazon.com link »

That does seem like a better option. It's not only cheaper, but it's also probably easier to work with being half the width.

#2490 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

just my experience, I had a vinyl type insert protectors from a CFTBL set I bought a while back and cut up 2 to fit to the drop targets and one peeled over at a corner after a few days - probably an application issue from myself. So peeled off and cleaned up with Novus 1 to then plan to redo but noticed that where the front edge of the vinyl protector was left a residue that can't be removed with Novus 1 or has etched the clearcoat.
I don't know what has happened but removed the other one as well and has the same issue.

Try a little Goo Gone. It's my go to product for getting rid of sticky residue.

#2492 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

So it safe to use on new playfields - can you post a picture of the product as I am in Aus so might not be available.

It's absolutely safe to use on a new playfield. It's a very gentle product.

Goo Gone (resized).jpg

#2513 2 years ago
Quoted from Jonjon74:

Which ones did you add? Pro Model?

The Pinball Life version fits the pro perfectly ...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4255

GB lane heighteners (resized).JPG

#2516 2 years ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

The pinball life version looks good and has the center post but the ball will still hop over the rail. The key is to slow and take the spin out of the ball right before it drops.

What rail are you talking about? Are you referring to the rail between the double inlanes? If so, why would you care if the ball hops over it? I assume most people are concerned about the ball hopping the outer rail and draining.

1 week later
#2522 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

The switch on my right orbit/Ecto lane doesn't register about 40% of the time, especially if I'm hitting it hard and fast. I've tried bending it, but I bent it so far it would close just but getting it screwed back in. I bent it back a little, but it's back to the 40% failure rate.
Any ideas?

I've been having issues with this same switch. I've tried tweaking the actuator. It helped a bit, but it's still not 100%. Unfortunately, that switch is just in a really bad location.

#2530 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What about when you're in who brought the dog and I hit a lit right orbit, it comes all the way around back to my left flipper and doesn't gimmie credit for it? Or when the mode is lit and ready to start at the right ladder and same thing, loops all the way around to the left flipper and doesn't start a mode.
Not sure why this happens on the prem only, but the 3 different ones I've played have all done this on hard direct shots around the right orbit.

That's strange, because if the right orbit switch doesn't register, then the controlled gate should remain closed.

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

#2 The gate situation is a mess in the Ecto lane. It's supposed to stop the ball from draining SDTM, but many times the ball manages to roll out around it and drain.

I never get a SDTM drain from the ecto lane. The ball is always delivered to the right flipper. In fact, I can usually do a drop catch and gain control of it.

#2567 2 years ago

Is the left scoop bug only on the pro? I haven't noticed a problem on my premium.

1 week later
#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Guys my drop target plastic on the right snapped again so the right target didn't stay up.

I'm surprised this doesn't happen on more people's games. Those targets really take a beating. Because of this, I recently decided to disable both of them in the menu, and I now only turn them on when guests are over. I found that they weren't adding to my enjoyment of the game that much, and this will put less wear and tear on the playfield over time.

#2593 2 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

I've thought about it, but you get 3x scoring when you knock them down.
Triple...Super...Jackpot!!!

True, but I bet I get higher scores overall by disabling them. The game is a lot easier when those drop targets aren't constantly blocking your shots.

1 week later
#2653 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

The switch behind Stay-Putt isn't a code issue. It's a design flaw because fast balls sent up the Ecto Lane lift off the ground when they go around the corner and the switch isn't depressed enough. Likewise, a softer plunge up the Ecto Lane seems to almost alway work.
I tried bending my switch to make it more sensitive, but the switch would close when I screwed it back in. I bent it back to get it working again, but same % of failure.
Stern should have put another Opto in there, or a physically different switch that could be closed when a fast ball is shot through the Ecto Lane.

I tried tweaking the switch actuator, but it only helped a little. We need to come up with a way to keep the ball from gaining air on that shot. I was thinking about installing some kind of cardboard flap that is hinged to the back of the ecto goggles. The cardboard would lay directly over the lane, but it would have some give due to the hinge. This might keep the ball low enough to register the switch more often. I plan on experimenting with this when I get a chance.

#2657 2 years ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

I adjusted the switch blade and that did help, but also added this plastic. I may do another revision and extend the plastic a bit further down, but will keep testing first.

I thought about doing something like that, but doesn't it affect the plunge?

#2660 2 years ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

No issue at all, full or soft plunge work fine. That is one of the concerns if I extend the plastic as it may interfere with the ball drop, but current design it is fine.

Interesting. So perhaps a combination of your idea and my flap idea over the ecto lane might be exactly the one-two punch we need.

2 weeks later
#2801 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

RE: A hard plunge rattling behind Stay Puft and falling in PKE or ECTO Goggle orbit instead of a smooth orbit.
I grinded down the gate corner as much as possible - didn't fix it. Raised the gate as much as possible - didn't fix it. Made sure Mr. Puft's ass was out of the way and still would rattle shots in the the PKE lanes instead of around the orbit. (yes, I have the softer spring on the plunger).
UNTIL, I added a well fitted piece of plastic on the left side of the shooter lane wall. Basically about 8 inches long and just a few inches high to cover the metal on the left before the drop off. This helps force the ball to the right and on to the curve behind Stay Puft. Played 10 games and made every plunged orbit smooth as Gozers butt. If it stays consistent I'll post the dimensions and pictures.

Interesting fix. Please keep us posted.

#2855 2 years ago

I think people get too hung up on the playfield having to be at exactly 6.5 degrees. Having it level from side to side is much more important.

#2859 2 years ago

I was waiting for a couple more people to chime in, but it sounds like removing the mylar is indeed the solution. Can't wait to give it a try.

#2861 2 years ago

So once the mylar is removed, the ball never rattles around back there on an orbit shot? It always whips right around?

#2863 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

No you will still get that but the shots that weren't registering were the really hard fast smooth shots through the ecto goggles. Now that shot will register no matter how fast and smooth of a shot that you send up through there.

Got it. So we're just talking about the switch registering consistently. That still sounds like a nice improvement to me. I hate it when I nail that shot and I don't get credit for it.

#2908 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

That's possible, but it still shouldn't be happening. I've slid mine around a lot, but it's on carpet sliders, so not much force is needed. Knock on wood (no pun intended), my game is fine so far.

#2910 2 years ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Just got a premium that is amazingly loud.
Even with the volume on 4-5 it's as loud as my other Sterns on 15 including other Spike games.
Is this normal for GB?

GB does seem to be louder than my other Spike game. I have GoT set at 15 and GB set at 10. At those settings, GB still sounds louder.

#2912 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I play GB at 25-30.

Is it incredibly loud?

#2921 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

What do you mean the games comes with the standoff Kind? Should I not use them? I have the felt underneath.

He is referring to the cabinet protectors that come pre-installed from the factory. They create a space between the leg and the cabinet so the leg doesn't actually touch the cabinet. These make the kind of protectors you are using unnecessary. Stern started using these a while back. I think AC/DC may have been the first game to have them, and they've been on every game since.

#2922 2 years ago

I removed the mylar behind Stay Puft yesterday. It does indeed make a substantial difference. The switch is registering much more consistently now, and it greatly improves game play. Like others have said, it was easy to take off the mylar. I just started it with my fingernail at the edge near the switch, and then pulled it right off with a pair of needle nose pliers. In my opinion, there is no need for the freeze spray method. There was some residue left from the glue, but it came right off with a little Goo Gone and some scrubbing with a microfiber towel.

#2925 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Did it completely fix the problem on your machine? Does the right orbit shot register every time now like it is supposed to? I've been waiting to hear from more guys about this before I remove my mylar.
Thanks
Junky

I've only played a couple games since I removed the mylar. I could immediately see that the situation was greatly improved, but I'll need some more games under my belt to accurately answer your questions.

#2930 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

What does it look like? I didn't notice any protectors on the cab or legs. I assume the protector is built into the cab?

They are either metal or plastic and look like this ...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Cabinet Protectors (resized).JPG

#2934 2 years ago

Okay, I just played five long games for the express purpose of testing out just how effective removing the mylar was. I even temporarily disabled the Scoleri Brothers so I could more easily focus on the shot. Holy crap!!! I don't think there was single time in all five games that the right orbit didn't register. Even super hard combos on the fly coming from the left orbit triggered the switch 100% of the time. To be honest, I'm a little shocked by how much of a difference removing a simple piece of mylar made. I can now say unequivocally that this mod makes the game play way better and should be performed by every person who owns the game.

#2937 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I don't see how the Mylar could have possibly affected the switch from registering but it damn sure does.

I wouldn't have thought so either, but the ball obviously gets quite a bit of loft when it hits the edge of the mylar. This wouldn't normally be an issue, but the proximity of the mylar to the switch combined with the quick turn created the perfect storm.

Quoted from pinden007:

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

I believe it probably would if you extended it down far enough.

#2939 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

It's possible, but I don't see any reason that it needs to be on there anyway.

Agreed. In a home use environment, I don't think the mylar in that area is necessary at all. At any rate, I played some more games, and I've now come to the realization that removing the mylar not only fixed the situation with the switch not being activated, but it also resolved the issue where a hard shot ball to the right orbit would sometimes rattle around up there and fall back down the way it came. The ball has not done that once since removing the mylar, and it used to do it every now and then on my game. I always assumed it was gaining air when it went over the drop target, but it turns out it was the mylar all along.

I am so fricken happy that we finally figured this one out. I honestly thought it was a design flaw with that upper right corner of the playfield, and we were just going to have to learn to live with it. I forgot who it was that originally suggested removing the mylar, but hats off to them! My game is now playing almost 100%. The only thing remaining that still needs to be tweaked is the upper right gate on the plunge. I've swapped out the shooter spring with the next one down and it helped, but the ball with still occasionally graze the gate. It's a minor issue on my game, though, and I know it's worse on some people's games.

#2941 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I wonder if just adjusting the switch does the same.

I tried tweaking the switch. It helped a bit, but no matter how much I fiddled with it, I still couldn't get it to register 100% of the time. Removing the mylar, on the other hand, worked like a charm.

#2942 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Removing the mylar would be the same as raising the wire on the switch. (bending wire upward to switch is pressed sooner)

It's not exactly the same. I think what happens is that a fast moving ball is launched into the air when it hits the front edge of the mylar. It then comes flying around the corner and makes contact with the switch at a less than optimal trajectory. Removing the mylar keeps the ball solidly rolling on the playfield so it makes proper contact with the switch wire.

#2947 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

To remove this Mylar do I need to remove any pf parts ?

No. You don't have to remove anything. Just lift the playfield and put it into the service position. This will give you better access to the back of the playfield. There is room to get your fingers in there and start peeling up the mylar near the switch. If you need to, you can slightly bend Stay Puft out of the way. Once you have it started, grab the mylar firmly with some needle nose plyers and slowly pull it off. It should come right up. Just make sure to clean up any adhesive that is left on the playfield before you start playing.

#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I bought metal hex spacers from pinball life to fix right ramp and I got both 1-5/8 and 1-3/4. Both look bigger than I thought. Did I get the wrong size?

Those should both be shorter than the one that came on the game. Are they not?

#2974 2 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

Check your switch on top of that ramp under the "14 Street" sign. Small metal tab that can be bent outwards. This is a common issue on new games. There is a stickied post with pictures too if you want to look at that. I had same issue and a slight bend solved it.

Yep. Easy fix. Just make sure you put some pressure on the arm with your thumb when you bend it so you aren't stressing it at the point where it attaches to the switch.

#2976 2 years ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Do you have a life size train set in your back yard?

Good eye! Those do seem like some pretty big tracks!

#2984 2 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

So is the mylar removal under the Stay Puft toy the fix for both Pro and Prem versions for the right orbit registration mis-fires?

As far as I know, that part of the playfield is exactly the same on both machines, so the fix should work equally well on a pro as it did on my premium.

#2987 2 years ago
Quoted from BD_Designs:

Have you had any issues with that back right orbit gate being too sensitive and registering skill shot hits prematurely?

That's a passive one-way gate. There is no switch connected to it, so it definitely isn't the gate itself that is causing the skill shot to register. Can you see on the DMD which skill shot you are getting credit for? I'm guessing one of your switches somewhere is either stuck or is too sensitive. Put your game in switch test and see what switches are closed. If nothing seems out of the ordinary, try slapping the playfield to see if the vibration triggers any switches.

#2989 2 years ago
Quoted from BD_Designs:

Thanks for the tips. In regards to the skill shot that is being triggered, it is usually the right orbit/"Who Brought the Dog" skill shot that is registering as it's one I typically select upon game start. I've also noticed it registering for Spook Central as well if I am on that mode so I will check the switch back there and see if anything seems out of the ordinary. I actually thought that the switch was tied into the gate. Just to confirm, I will select a different skill shot lane and see if it still triggers back there along the right orbit.

Perhaps the ball is ricocheting off the gate and grazing the right orbit switch?

#3001 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I'm pretty annoyed. After having my playfield replaced, my game simply plays worse. The right orbit used to be 100% reliable on my game before swapping the playfield out, now it commonly fails to make it around. It really disrupts things, and I'm quite bugged about it.
Since I never had the problem before, I've not looked into the fixes out there. What are people doing to improve the reliability of the right orbit shot? This is on a GBLE, by the way.

You'll be happy to know that it's an easy fix. Just remove the piece of mylar that is located right before the orbit switch behind Stay Puft. It's hard to believe that such a small thing causes such a large problem, but it does. I think the earlier runs didn't have the mylar installed, which is most likely why you never had a problem on that shot with your original playfield.

#3013 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

You guys need to bend the corner of the mechanical gate up.

Did you have to remove the gate to do this? I tried removing the gate once, but Stay Puft was blocking me from getting it out. I didn't feel like dealing with it at the time, so I just left it alone. The problem isn't too bad on my machine. With the lower tension spring, a full plunge makes it all the way around almost all the time. A majority of the time I'm going for the "K" skill shot anyway.

#3015 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

The ball should not always go all the way around. With testing you will see there is a pattern to when the gate opens and when it does not.

Quoted from delt31:

Good to know. I thought it was always intended to go around.

I'm not sure about all the modes (I rarely get to the deeper modes on the right ladder), but in normal play the ball appears to almost always go all the way around on a right orbit shot. I wasn't sure about this before, but now that my orbit switch is working 100%, I'm much more confident that this is the case. It's possible that the gate remains closed during some multiballs, as I'm rarely paying attention and am just happy to keep the balls in play.

#3016 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I didn't. I removed stay puft (easy, 2 nuts and 1 electrical connector). Then I bent the corner of the gate frame with pliers very carefully in place. It's a pain to remove the gate.
On the "we got one" thread PinScott said he removed the playfield backboard in order to remove the gate, and then bent and filed the gate frame.
Junky

Thanks for the info! It may have been the ball guide that was the problem and not Stay Puft. Seems like a pain in the butt if you actually have to remove the backboard. I'll try your method leaving the gate in place and removing Stay Puft.

#3020 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Strange that the rod was not straight, on a NIB.

Yeah, that's very odd.

#3032 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can confirm initial run LE's had no mylar on right hand loop. Have just removed the mylar on my replacement pf and once glue removed will test.

You are going to be shocked by how much of a difference removing that mylar makes.

#3045 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Greetings! Struggling with an odd flipper issue on our Ghostbusters LE. Basically, the left and right flipper both act a bit 'sticky' and it is worse with the left flipper than the right. If you press the flipper buttons and let go, they stay raised up for a half second or so before falling back down. If you rapidly press the flipper buttons, the left flipper will actually just stay raised instead of the rapid flipping you should get with nice crisp flippers.

I have this exact same issue with with the flippers on my GB premium. It makes it very hard to do the little finesse moves like tap passes, post passes, etc ... On most games, a quick release and re-press will cause the flipper to flutter ever so slightly. When I do this on GB, the flipper often doesn't move at all. Like you said, you can even hit the button rapidly many times in a row without the flipper dropping even the slightest. I tried making the gap on the flipper button switches a little wider. This helped a bit, but the flippers still don't react like they are supposed to. My only other Spike game is GoT, and those flippers work perfectly. I sure would like to get to the bottom of this.

#3048 2 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

That sounds like some kind of mechanical issue. Did it always do this or just start?

The game has always been like this. I've examined both flipper mechs, and I can't see anything that appears out of the ordinary.

#3051 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I have noticed that trying to flutter your flipper, especially in the up position, is really hard and unreliable in Ghostbusters. I've drained quite a few times expecting to tap pass the ball across only to have it roll off and drain.

Yep. That happened to me a lot when I first got the game. I've learned to play around it, but I shouldn't have to.

Quoted from Who-Dey:

I think it may have something to do with the new spike system maybe? Seems like I read that somewhere anyways.

But my GoT is Spike, and it's fine. That's what's so confusing. Is it possible that Stern made some sort of change after GoT? I've never played a BM66 or AS. How are the flippers on those games?

#3053 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Every GOT I've played had this issue too. Cannot remember on B66. Haven't tried to do the tap too much. Don't remember KISS having this though. Shrugs.

My GoT is an LE. Did they run those first? Maybe the change was made midway through the run? I'm obviously speculating here. There has to be some logical reason why the flipper feel completely different on some games.

#3069 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamie126:

've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

Did you check the connections to it? It's also possible that the leaf switch needs to be adjusted. It might be stuck closed.

1 week later
#3095 2 years ago
Quoted from funchaser:

Hello. I just received a GB Premium NIB last week and I've spent this week fixing issues/dialing it in. My current issue is that the ball gets stuck (during play) between the "cliffy" protector and the top of the scoop of the right eject VUK. I'm not sure of the best way to remedy this. Anybody had to deal with this before? Any ideas? Thanks.

I would try to bend the top of the scoop up a bit so there is more clearance.

#3106 2 years ago
Quoted from Mobsync:

How do I disable the Scoleri brothers as some have done here?

Easy. Just go into the menu and disable both drop targets.

#3123 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

I have read many responses about replacing the spring but the auto plunger does not utilize the shooter spring. Any ideas on where to look and any possible adjustments you can recommend?

I think what some people have done is replace the auto shooter spring with a higher tension one. This makes the auto shooter fire the ball more slowly. This is different from replacing the manual plunger spring, which is generally swapped out with a lower tension one.

#3134 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

You have your wedge installed upside down. You want to the target aimed more towards the playfield, not leaning back.

I think you are looking at the photo wrong. The way he has the wedge installed would definitely make the target lean forward (towards the flippers).

#3146 2 years ago

I was over at my buddy's house yesterday, and I played his LE for the first time since I bought my premium. A couple observations:

1) The LE playfields must be made out of a different kind of wood, because his game doesn't have nearly as many dimples as mine.

2) His flippers are exactly the same as mine, where it is difficult to flutter them and do finesse moves. What is it about GB flippers that makes them fundamentally different than other games? It is definitely not a SPIKE thing, as other SPIKE games are fine. I went right from GB to Arrowsmith last night, and the flippers on Arrowsmith were great. Same with Got, KISS, etc ... Did they change something up with the flipper circuitry on GB, realize they made a mistake, and then change back on later games? I truly am stumped on this one.

#3155 2 years ago

I'm less concerned about the flipper alignment than I am with the fact that they simply don't act like they are supposed to. Has anyone been able to figure out why the flippers on GB feel different than any other Stern game? I've looked carefully at the entire flipper assembly, and I can't spot anything different. I've also tried adjusting the switch gaps to no avail. I'm curious to know if this is a problem that affects all GBs, or just some. Does anyone have a GB with flippers that they consider to be perfectly normal? I'm talking about the ability to easily flutter them with a half press of the button so you can do tap passes, post passes, etc .... No matter what adjustments I make, I still find these finesses moves to be extremely difficult on my game.

#3176 2 years ago
Quoted from imharrow:

Can you really, easily, do a tap pass on any modern stern?

It's not as easy as it is on older solid state games, but I generally have pretty good success with the move if the flippers are adjusted correctly. On GB, however, it's extremely difficult.

Quoted from imharrow:

I have not spent much time on other spike games, but I remember disliking the flipper feel of GOT when I first played it. GB certainly has different timing related to when the flipper disengages than SAM games.

I own both GB and GoT. There is no comparison. The flippers on GB play like s**t. It's something I've gotten used to, but I sure would like to know why the flippers are so different on this game. If we can identify the cause, then perhaps we can come up with a fix.

#3215 2 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

50% of the time my ball kicks out of the left scoop when shot into.
does anyone think that putting drop dead foam on top inside of scoop would help?

That is not normal. Is your playfield protector not sitting flat?

1 week later
#3240 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Is the Left Scoop supposed to strongly kick out to the middle of the right flipper, or is it supposed to "bloop" and sputter out down to the left flipper?

I'm pretty sure it's supposed to kick out to the right flipper. Have you closely examined the mech to make sure it's working smoothly?

#3289 2 years ago
Quoted from tasman:

I was playing my Ghostbuster today and almost all the light on the play field went out. Some of the arrows were light and that all that were on . game still played and when game was over I shut it off and turned it back on and all was good again . any idea what would cause this?

Sounds like some weird glitch. As long as it doesn't happen again, I wouldn't worry about it.

#3305 2 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

It's been some time that I've visited here to this thread since I got my Pro back in October 2016. I've been trying to catch up on everyone's experiences and found this one to be rather interesting. Thanks for this update and I'll be looking at my flipper angles tonight. Are you just eyeing it up or are you putting them at a specific degree angle from a square portion of the table?

I think he just aligned them so they are parallel to the ball guide.

#3319 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Sure. I had to adjust from underneath the playfield to get decent leverage on the switch. It was perfect for a while, but now I'm getting occasional spit-outs again, so I guess I'll try to readjust. Let us know what ends up working for you. Maybe there is a better solution.

I think the best solution would be a slight tweak to the software. As it stands, if the game senses the switch being closed and then immediately opened, it doesn't award the shot. This can be rectified by adjusting the switch, but this shouldn't even be necessary. All they need to do is insert a very short delay into the code to give the ball a chance to fully settle onto the switch.

#3344 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

So I thought I was out of the woods, but after about 5 months and 1,500 plays, my Tobins and Add-A-Ball inserts are showing a small sliver of ghosting. Hopefully, it won't get worse, but was thinking of covering the inserts with mylar. Any other ideas?

Sorry to hear about the ghosting. I'm surprised to see it happen after so many plays. I guess no playfield is immune, even if you think you are out of the woods. Unfortunately, I don't think mylar would help at all. The problem is the insert pulling away from clear. I don't think there is anything you can really do to prevent this. Hopefully, it won't get much worse.

#3352 2 years ago
Quoted from atariaction:

What is the replacement auto launch spring people are using to replace the original?

With the heavier compression spring installed, does the ball still easily make it all the way around the orbit when the gate is open?

2 months later
#3463 2 years ago
Quoted from orb:

1 does anyone notice the right orbit the switch dosnt connect with ball? there is a mylar strip on pf right before it.
i took off the mylar and it worked. but i am afraid of wear there and there is a reason for the mylar so i stuck it back on and now the ball goes over switch too fast or rises or something and it dosnt go off all the time. anyone notice this problem?

Leave the mylar off. I removed the mylar on mine and never looked back. I don't think wear will be a problem on a home use game.

2 weeks later
#3488 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's also pretty common for one of the two screws holding the switch on the left or right scoop to unwind and fall out, which leaves the switch in place, but the actuator arm drops too low to register when the ball comes in. You just have to find the tiny black screw in the black cabinet...which can take a while...to fix it.

This happened to me as well shortly after I bought the game. I wonder why it's a more common occurrence on this particular game. I don't recall ever having one of the little black screws come loose on any of my other Sterns.

4 weeks later
#3520 2 years ago
Quoted from Sirphobos:

Has anyone with a Premium/LE had their slimer motor stop working? I can't even get it to register hits in game, but the switch test recognizes when I manually hit him. Calibrating the motor doesn't seem to do anything, and the motor test doesn't move it using the service buttons. I'm not sure what to try next... it was working great until this evening.

Blown fuse?

1 month later
#3577 2 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

The left target goes up fine, but does not go down (all I hear is clicking).

This would indicate that the spring is probably too tight.

#3585 2 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

The Scolari targets just suck - period. Huge flaw in this game IMO.

I agree. That's why I normally leave mine turned off.

1 week later
#3614 2 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Bend it, I had the same problem. Registers every time now.

Yep. Carefully bend the actuator arm out just a little bit. I had the same problem as well.

#3621 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

I can’t believe they couldn’t install it correctly at the factory.

Yep. The worker who did that must have been drunk or something.

1 month later
#3641 1 year ago
Quoted from billrz:

My left scoop has been kicking the ball out without registering about 10-15 percent of the time,really sucks when extra ball,or back off man or anything is lit. it just started happening a week ago. My friend says its a code issue. Anybody else have this problem? any fixes?

Check the switch. Several people have reported that one of the tiny little screws popped out and it was loose.

#3649 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I have no idea why I suffered so long with the Scoleri Brothers targets. I tried the PBL springs but the targets never stayed up so I put it back to stock and suffered with them bricking shots and trying to hit them with a glance.
A friend of mine came over the other night and convinced me to try pulling the stock springs up and hooking them back on 4-5 loops up. They work like a charm now!
PSA - Don't suffer with bad drop targets. Make the change now!

In my experience, the PBL springs are too strong. I did the same as you. I took about 5-6 loops off the factory springs and they have worked perfectly ever since.

3 weeks later
#3678 1 year ago
Quoted from philsublime:

1. The autoplunger fires about 50% of the balls into the stay puft. Ball afterwards drops down the right ramp and sometimes sdtm. Not sure if it fires too strong or what's the problem here. There's also some perfectly smooth balls in between.

This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.

#3688 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.

Quoted from imagamejunky:

All due respect intended here. I thought the replacement spring was a decreased tension. Maybe I’m wrong.

The idea is to decrease the velocity of the auto-plunger so the ball doesn't get hung up on the gate. In order to do this, you must use a higher tension spring. You may be thinking of the manual plunger, where a lower tension spring would indeed slow down the ball.

#3689 1 year ago
Quoted from beepbeep:

I'm having a issue with my right flipper sticking, is any one else having or seen the same issue?

Is it mechanical or electrical? Does the flipper continue to stick even when the game is off?

#3715 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Has anyone had any negative side effects from installing the new service bulletins? I'm getting ready to install mine and I want to make sure it's a good idea.

The only thing I've noticed, and it could be 100% my imagination, is that the ball doesn't fire quite as hard out of the library scoop as it used to. With the eject power set to max, it used to consistently hit the middle of the right flipper. Now it hits closer to the tip of the flipper.

#3725 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

anyone have any suggestions about premium airball deflectors. I've had 5 of them crack so far from front end impacts.

Do you have a cliffy on the Scoleri target? If so, this is most likely causing the ball to get more air and greatly increases the chance of the deflector taking a direct hit?

#3733 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

Loving this game so far but those gozer SDTM drains are for the birds...

Better start practicing your slide saves!

1 week later
#3785 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all,

Possibly a common prob...but an issue I am seeing with my recently acquired GB Prem...has to do with the initial plunge of the ball, and the Orbit lock that allows it to go down the lane and get the target shot (i.e. to start 'ok who brought the dog'?)

I'm noticing a about 30% of the time the ball appears to hit the orbit switch despite a full plunge...and ends up going down the P/K/E area...keeping me from starting a scene quickly (game counts as a miss the ball going down the P/K/E - bumper area)

Does the problem occur on a manual plunge, auto plunge, or both? I had something similar happening with my game on a full manual plunge. The issue was greatly mitigated by switching to a lower tension spring.

2 weeks later
#3829 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

1. Sometimes when I hit it up the loop with the holographic ghost, the ball sounds like it is banging into wood. Is this normal or do I need to change something?

Remove the piece of mylar in the right orbit. This should make the shot smooth as butter.

#3830 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

2. Sometimes when the game shots a ball from the trough, it also hits wood. Is this normal? Is this the trough eject power in the GB Adjustments menu that is set to 255? I changed it to 245. Is this a good setting is this is the right one?

The trough eject power setting is to adjust how hard the game fires the ball out of the trough into the shooter lane. There is no way to adjust the strength of the auto-plunger in the settings. On some games, it fires the ball too hard and it gets hung up on the gate behind Stay Puft. There are a couple ways to address this. You can change out the auto-plunger spring to a higher tension one. This will reduce the velocity of the ball. Another option is to install a piece of plastic that helps to guide the ball downward after it leaves the shooter lane. There is a Pinsider that custom makes these, but I can't remember who it is.

#3845 1 year ago
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:

As an aside - anyone know how to replace that bit of black plastic, other than contacting Stern?

Is your game still under warranty? If so, just call Stern and they'll send you out a new piece. If it's not under warranty, I'd still call Stern. They may very well send you one for free anyway. They generally have very good customer service.

1 month later
#3947 1 year ago

swinks

Would you consider making these brackets for Bally/WMS games? There are some targets on my Demo Man that I still get crazy airballs from even after I installed brand new reinforced target brackets.

2 months later
#4055 1 year ago
Quoted from ctozzi:

I need a hand adjusting the scoop on the right side of the playfield when the ball pops out and immediately drains any help is welcomed thank you.

Have you tried adjusting the strength of the coil in the menu?

5 months later
#4200 11 months ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Im having a problem where the balls keep getting stuck in any of the pke 3 rollover lanes. The ball gets stuck right after the sensor at the bottom part. It happens fairly often (30% of games) and I have to shake it to set it free. Does anyone have suggestions on how to resolve?

I'm not sure what's going on. Can you post a photo of the area where the ball is getting stuck? I'm guessing the ball may be getting stuck between the two post rubbers.

2 weeks later
#4244 10 months ago
Quoted from callaway15:

Or, do you just have to gently hammer it down in ...

Yes. That's exactly what I've had to do on a couple games.

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