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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

4 years ago



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  • 4,465 posts
  • 526 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by cpr9999
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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)


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#409 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

EDIT: Also, as a first time NIB buyer, what can be done about coins not registering. about 5% of coins dropped in the right side will go through, but not register. Anything specific to look at?

Ya , so I guess you owe me a buck or two

#446 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Well, that explains that then. You had both Dwight and JT standing there, playing the machine, and they didn't even realize the captive ball wasn't working- or chose to ignore it. No wonder the problem exists, they are apparently clueless or could care less.

Like we used to say , ship it now fix it later.
As long as the bean counters are happy . Honestly it's how some companies operate.

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I know every machine will be different, but for me, 25 was too much (was delivering it to the flipper tip), 20 was to the top sling post rubber area. Mine is set to 22 or 23, which feeds along the front of the sling for a nice catch just like the Whirlwind we have does.

Thank you, that left kickout drain was really starting to p÷€× me off.

#614 4 years ago

Can some of you that have the pin at home comment on the fan noise. I mean how loud is it really. My games are in a small room and if that thing is humming all the time it could be a problem.

#617 4 years ago

Ya , I have read the posts regarding installing quieter fans. Just wanted to see what others thought about the noise level. My space is essentially the extra bed room so it has space for 3 pins and the couch and the noise could be annoying in that space.

2 weeks later
#726 4 years ago
Quoted from PW79:

Its pretty clear Stern F'd up & designed or received shorter wire guides.
There's no way one new guy in the assembly line is to blame for every playfield.
"Hey new guy. Dont hammer those in so far"

Bigger Hammer

1 month later
#791 4 years ago

Guys let your machine break-in before you all go changing everything.
The one I play on very frequently took about 2 months to settle down.

#797 4 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

My GB doesn't always give a clean feed off the plunge through to the spinner. Anyone else having an issue like that and/or a possible solution?

Alot of times if you full plunge the ball will actually hit the bottom of the stay puft man causing it to fall short of a full orbit .

#812 4 years ago

New code ?

4 weeks later
#1112 4 years ago

Man I hate to keep being negative , trust me I'm hoping for the best, but apparently things have not got any better . How can they keep shipping this stuff.
Sorry to see those pics on a brand new machine.

#1120 4 years ago
Quoted from Flato:

This is just a total lack of QC this is getting nuts how many problems GB is having

Let us know how yours turns out when you unbox it , Tomorrow ?

1 month later
#1384 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Did you have the tighter springs on the drop target?

Are those pics of a premium ???

PF date ?

1 week later
#1409 4 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Some Premiums have shown issues. Anything on or before September 8th (playfield date, not game assembly date) is a bit of a risk.
No issues have been reported since then. Some would say its wise to wait longer, in case problems eventually show up.
I picked up my Premium earlier today. Seems to be 100% in that I haven't found anything that even needs tweaking.
Recently built Premiums should have late Sept playfield dates, provided you don't get a pin thats been sitting somewhere for a few weeks.
Doubt thats likely, given the demand for these recently but until you open the box, you never can tell, right?

So what's your playfield date and is it stamped or hand written?

#1411 4 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

I saw in the other thread his is September 26th (stamped).

Thanks STP,
Anyone else see a trend of hand written vs stamped playfields?

#1437 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

The stern guys said the playfield issue hadn't been fixed yet when we were at the factory last week, so dates are largely irrelevant until we hear them say it's fixed. Latest guess has it the new play fields will arrive in November as a few folks have been told new play fields to replace duff ones will be delivered in November.

I haven't seen or heard of any ghosting on any GB premium made after Late September.
I'm surprised that someone would actually say that on a tour .

#1440 4 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Mine is September 24th or 26th (don't recall).... My Tobin's started ghosting after about 50 plays. it hasnt gotten any worse now after about 75 plays though. No other inserts seem to have this issue yet (knock on wood)...

No shit ....

#1479 3 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Hi Guys, I may be on to something here: Look at the attached pictures. They were taken under the same light conditions with the same camera at the same time (10 seconds apart).
The colors are very different. In one the overalls are brownish, in the other more green. This is in real life also the case. The more brownish one does have ghosting (look at Tobins) and the greener has not.
Overall the one with the greener overalls does have much better colors such as the blues and the purples. The other playfield looks more washed out when looking at it directly.
Maybe we can confirm this is the same for all playfields that are having ghosting ?

This would lead me to think stern has several Different manufacturers again.

I Said this before regarding hand written pf dates vs stamped.

#1484 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballHog:

I haven't read all the posts but has anybody had there clear chipping in the shooter lane? After about 50 games I looked down and saw mine had chipped all the way to bare wood. I have a premium Sept. 26 playfield. I've got games 10-15 years old with no chipping in the shooter lane. What is going on? I don't have any ghosting yet and hope I don't!

What is written in pen to the left of the date stamp, looks like a hand written date ?

#1490 3 years ago

Ok thanks,
My guess and only a guess is this playfield was made by one of the manufacturers, the one using a sharpie to date their playfield, then it was reinspected by Stern 3 days later for final approval.

#1492 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballHog:

Was this playfield date supposed to be one that the ghosting was fixed. I still haven't seen any ghosting and I put several more games since the clear chipping showed up.

Who really knows .
These dates are showing some chipping in shooter lane and the ball trough, but the ghosting seems to have almost gone away, maybe a few reports of minor ghosting but not spreading like the LEs .

#1493 3 years ago

Screenshot_2016-10-26-08-10-20 (resized).png

But then this was just posted, but also the pf Dat of 9-8 is hand written with no secondary date stamp.

#1495 3 years ago
Quoted from Jive:

Called Stern and talked to Chas. He wanted me to send him pics of the cabinet, and said he would discuss it with the boss and get back to me. Really unsure as to what they can do, other than replace the game which I highly doubt. Even, then, I'd be rolling the dice as my current playfield does not have the ghosting issue.

Sh!t , keep that playfiled and have them send you a cab.

#1539 3 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

This is somewhere around 75 games

Is that a premium or LE ?

2 weeks later
#1629 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Can someone point me in the right direction for the airball protector for a Pro machine?
Thanks.

oldpinballguy makes and sells them

#1701 3 years ago

Has anybody had a problem with the ball hitting the wire gate bracket at the top of the right orbit just before it enters the top lanes.
On certain hard shots the ball will come back down the orbit , or bounce up into the shooter lane and roll down to the plunger on a shot that should very smooth and fast.
I can definitely hear it hitting that bracket .

#1703 3 years ago

Air balls....
With the airball protector on from the first game I have had several " balls" hit the 2x left stand up target fly OVER the crossover ramp and right slingshot and land right in the shooter lane all without hitting the glass.

Art @oldpinballguy are you reading this.
The airball protector needs to be extended out in front of that 2x target a bit. I think a little radial curve from front center to left at the tobin scoop would be all it needs , otherwise it does control alot of the balls off the 3x target.

#1713 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Update on my right ramp. I removed the hex spacer that was installed in the game. I installed a 1 5/8" hex spacer and my right ramp works perfectly now. No more shots that roll back down.
On a side note regarding the mylar to the flash lamp. My ghostbusters was LE was built in August and the mylar is already installed on the flash lamp.

Thank you Trekkie ,
I needed to know the length of that hex spacer for replacement.
So nobody else has had issues with the ball hitting the right orbit wire gate bracket ? Fixes or suggestions?

#1715 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

So the big question ..... again. Should I update code Ti 1.11 or stick with 1.05. Seems odd that the factory just shipped the game and that's what's they shipped with. Build date 11/10

Im staying put at 1.05 for now .

#1718 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I'm standing here with 1.11 on a flash drive undecided if I should leap from 1.05 to 1.11. I would like to update but it sounds like most are not happy with the updates.

You can always switch back, just not the High Scores

#1719 3 years ago

So the guy at Ace Hardware just stared at me when I ask for 1 5/8" hex spacer.

Any one know where I could get one ?

#1727 3 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

What spacer are you changing? Pic?

The one that supports the crossover ramp wire form .

#1736 3 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I wanted my slings to be more sensitive...... from the factory the sling rubber is on the high tier making it have more throw to activate switch
Also when the ball would hit the rubber it would push it upward instead of straight back
Putting it on the lower worked fantastic and it at the regular height like most games

Great tip thank you Sir
Edit : So I just switch the rubbers around as described above and man what a difference . Thanks again .

#1739 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Please see the video below -- "removable clear mylar/vinyl".
This product is designed to stick but can be easily removed
without damaging the surface and without leaving any residue or adhesive behind.
» YouTube video

So Chuck,
Where did you get that stuff ?

#1783 3 years ago

I know it's a bit of a shock to see someone drill their playfield, but come on guys let the guy do what he wants to his game. I personally do not have the skills or balls to do that .

1 week later
#1876 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

I couldn't find a spacer , so I switched things around on the slingshot end and lowered the wire form exit by about 1/4 " and it works great now.

1 week later
#1964 3 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

OK, officially from Stern, Slimer is supposed to rub on the bracket some as he is coming out so he is down closer to the playfield. Some people insist on moving him up so he doesn't touch anything when he comes down. I don't think anyone was having slimer rub on the actual playfield.
Mine, out of the box rubs just slightly on the one bracket as he's coming down (he's on a spring so bends) and it doesn't bother me so I haven't bothered trying to adjust him. He registers hits well and looks good flying around on the playfield.

Yes this ^^^^
Exactly how mine works.

#2012 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeCP:

Yes, me. The bracket is the problem. No solution yet.
Here's what I wrote in another thread, and some videos.
I'm having an issue that I wasn't able to find anyone talking about in that thread.
My right orbit rejects about 70% of the time. I've attached some videos to demonstrate, but either one of two things happens: It either completely rejects and comes back down the right orbit, or it rattles and instead falls into pops. Annoying when you have a mode lit or skill shot lit on the right orbit.
I'm still unsure if something is making the ball get some air and rattle off the gate, or if the gate itself is broken.
This is NOT the same as the over-eager plunger spring that others have talked about.
Anyone else?
» YouTube video
» YouTube video
» YouTube video

Ok so just yesterday I removed that entire gate assembly. Easy, 2 screws no wires, and I literally used my dremel and cut that front bottom corner off at a 45 ' angle. It seems to be better but still the ball some how is hitting that gate.
Edit : also needed to remove small plastic just below stay puft to remove gate assy.

#2015 3 years ago

I know , maybe there is a smaller not so bulky one way gate ?
I'll keep fiddling with it ,
It's really frustrating to see the ball come back down the orbit shot

#2016 3 years ago

I did see one photo where someone just bent the metal so it was wider , I figured cutting that corner off would have the same result.

#2044 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This is what I was looking at:

So is the grub screw the one on the side of the round barrel thing?
If so, then how do you raise slimer ?

#2047 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I believe it is. Sounds like you just unscrew and raise up slightly and screw back in.

Ok cool I'll give it a go.
Does code effect how slimer moves or anything? Currently on 1.05 if I upgrade will it change anything with slimer.

1 week later
#2118 3 years ago

So, of course last night before I have 20 guests over tonight my gb :premiums lower GI and flippers both go dead and then come back on.
It happened 2 or 3 times but seems fine now.
Could this be a loose connection or something more eminent to come ?
I would nor think flippers and gi would be wired together , I did install a shaker last week.

#2121 3 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Are you still on 1.05?
If so, update to the latest (or at least the 1.10) code before your node 8 board takes the final dump.
(Node management is important...)
Also,
Check left scoop flasher for possible grounding, yada yada.

Yes still on 1.05, didn't realize code woikd effect the node board .
Have placed protection on left scoop.

#2149 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

Hmmm guess I'm not the only one. My GB did the exact same thing. The lower portion of the play-field was losing all power intermittently then would immediately come back on... this went on for a few days. I looked all over the damn underside for a loose connector but never could find it. Re-seated most of the connectors on the boards etc... nothing. The other morning I go in to turn on my game and poof right scoop coil locks on burns up....game is dead. I guess they are going to send me out a new coil and board... if that is the only problem. I certainly hope this doesn't happen to you but it's funny because my game did the exact same thing before it died. What a pain in the ass...ugh. I've been on 1.11-1.12 since the day it came out.

So did this happen when you were running newer 1.12 code or prior to upgrading ?
Also , what was the reason the coil locked on ?
Loose wire , grounding out ???

#2168 3 years ago
Quoted from Bwilson:

This happened while I was running new code 1.11-1.12.
According to the manual, driver reference for the subway eject is controlled by node 8. Node 8 also powers the flippers, lower GI, etc. all of the lower playfield that was cutting in and out before all this happened. Which can only lead me to believe that a transistor or the board itself failed when the subway eject locked on and burned up no loose wiring. When I disconnected the coil on the subway the game came back on for a few then finally killed out when I turned it on the next day. Just kind of sad seeing core node board failures this soon. Best of luck to everyone hope you can avoid this.
Don't shut it off....the Storage Facility is smoking !!!

So it sounds lIke there really is nothing I can do to prevent it but just hope it doesn't , or wait until it does and replace the board.

#2171 3 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Unfortunately, yes...
Either it's a bad batch of boards, or the previous 1.05 code and under was stressing that node 8 beyond it's capacity.
I always go through every NIB I open with a fine tooth comb before the game even sees electricity and nothing was out of sorts when my node 8 went up.

Thanks Nimble

#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So it sounds lIke there really is nothing I can do to prevent it but just hope it doesn't , or wait until it does and replace the board.

Well surprise , surprise. ..
There seems to be a definite reason for my GI and flippers going dead , so far and I don't believe it's the node board as previously discussed.
Last week I installed several mods , first ones since I had received the machine brand new .
One mod was a back panel light strip that has a rgb strip with a remote to change colors and connects to a board in the backbox. Very straight forward easy mod and Purchased from a very reputable mod company , not home made .
Well it appears after disconnecting the light strip that my Dead GI and flippers problem has gone away. I can only assume that the light strip was pulling enough power to shut the PF GI and flippers off.
Thanks to Professor Pinball once again .

#2212 3 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Well, to be fair, all the stuff you were describing earlier is related to that specific board.
I also didn't know you had added extra aftermarket stuff for the BB and PF so probably include bit of info for next time.
Mine had no mods; was factory fresh, so I was just assuming more owners were having a similar issue due to 1.05 or at the very least were starting to.
Well,
Hopefully you're now good to go and the game runs like a champ from here on out.
Funny to think that the new Spike system could possibly be interrupted/brought down by running a few extra LED strips.
Did I mention how much I already miss SAM?

Your right about more detail, but I just could not imagine that an led strip would pull enough power to kill the machine, besides I didn't hack into the pcb to connect it. There is specific plug to add it.

Quoted from RipleYYY:

well, than we should admit that "pumping" to much power/electricity from the node board will cause to crash/bug/burn it !?
i will tell this short story (according to yours) :
few ago i had change some LEDS with incandescent ones, and strangely the node board did goes wrong... my son tell me about that electricity possibility, while in my head was more thinking about a "just no luck" prob... my son said to replace the LED, i listen to him, and than all was OK again (no bug before, no bug after)
i did not try back to see if it goes wrong again, dont want to burn the board...
wtf !? with just few incandescents lamps ???

Apparently so , so heads modders.
Just a little extra bling can crash the machine.

#2217 3 years ago

Now that I have determined that one added led light strip is enough to crash my GB how am I supposed to add speaker lights or anything else for that matter ? I suspect the same thing will happen.
This can't be normal , is it?
How are you Premium owners adding mods and not having issues ?

#2222 3 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Im pretty sure hes got some other issues going on not sure what ? My guess is a bad node board or pcb board

Ya probably so,
But when the strip is disconnected the problem completely goes away.
Maybe I can get Chas to send me one .

#2227 3 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

Simply install a separate 12v power supply for your mods.

Quoted from RipleYYY:

there's a 12V plug available on the power board...

Good ideas

1 week later
#2308 3 years ago
Quoted from Swainer80:

Is anyone else having problems with the right orbit? If you rip a shot into it . . . the ball jumps or hits Stay Puft or goes in the shooter lane or any place other than going smoothly trough the orbit. I can understand the airballs but that orbit shot is a pisser. Amazing game (albeit difficult) other wise.

Yes this has been my last issue to take care of .
No matter what I did the ball would hit that right one gate and rattle around on hard hit shots .
I even used my dremel and cut that front bottom corner off the gate , but it didn't help
So I just removed the gate all together, and it plays great . Alot more flow and speed now .
I figure the ball spends enough time n the pops as it is .

#2310 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

My GB premium is on order so I don't have it yet. Does removing the gate change game play? What is the gate's purpose?

Removing this gate really does not change anything, it's not wired up and doesn't register anything.
It's purpose is to drop the ball into the lanes and pops from the left orbit, It doesn't allow the ball to make a full orbit from left to right . It's a one way gate That's it.

Edit: removing the small plastic under stay put man is required to remove gate assy. , 2 nuts.

#2313 3 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

I adjusted how my right gate lined up. I took my right gate off, and added washers (2 thicker ones I think) under the bracket for one screw so the gate would line up better with the orbit. This seemed to help a LOT.

Interesting, I can try that .

#2344 3 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

Yeah, it's called a 1-5/8" hex post!

Seriously, can some one mail me one ?
Not available at local ace for me and I don't want to just order one .

Also any way to retro fit a one way gate , like the one on the entrance to the right orbit , for the back right orbit issues ?
Does that make sense , Ha !

2 weeks later
#2440 3 years ago

I have a November playfield on my GB premium and it's like that as well, just looked .
I seem to be mentioning this stuff alot lately, but maybe throw some of that clear removable mylar around the corner and down both sides to " wrap " it . Maybe cover about a 1/2 in of each decal , front and side, then apply the mylar vertically down the cabinet corner.
amazon.com link »

Added link

#2444 3 years ago

Weird how the decals are completely different colors. Its not even close to one another .

a73c009c431ab002590b85877458ad57ec10d7e2 (resized).jpg

4a87acc78d16452685507828c3589c788d249912 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#2539 3 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

I've turned down power but more times than I'd like the ball gets hung at that orbit gate and rocks Stay Puft during auto save.
What have you guys done to minimize or eliminate it? Bend it? remove it?

I totally removed it , ball spends plenty of time in the pops as it is and it allows full left orbit shots while at the same time creating more flow to the game .
I tried everything imaginable to adjust that top right gate ,including cutting off the excess metal corners to a nice rounded edge with my dremel. Finally said screw works great with out it .

#2548 3 years ago
Quoted from Swainer80:

I yanked out that damn gate as well. The switch might not register, but at least the ball doesn't go batsh*t crazy all over the place when it ricochets off of it.

That particular gate has no switch attached to it, it's completely mechanical.

2 weeks later
#2650 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I have not had that issue but I know there are 2 switches. The 1st is an optical sensor. This busts the ghost
After is a physical switch. If mine did not register consistently in would test in the menus then I would adjust it so the switch makes contact before the ball is fully pressing the switch-lever to its maximum down (ball directly over switch). Just be careful not to make the switch too high which could block or slow the ball.

Hey Chuck
Is the 2nd switch you are speaking of the same one that starts the wbtd mode.
If so I have the same issue with it not registering on hard fast shots but on the other hand wbtd mode will start often / all the time / when plugging and I don't want it to when plugging to the top lanes ??? Suggestions? Code issue ?

#2658 3 years ago

I swear just last night I was thinking , hmm you know a piece of plastic to keep the ball down would probably fix this and then maybe I could reinstall the back right gate .

1 week later
#2693 3 years ago

Do the pin blades from pin graffix usually have the hole cut out for the back box hinge ???
My don't seem to have it cut.

#2696 3 years ago
Quoted from cireone:

There is no hole cut on mine.

Hmm, that's kind of dumb.

#2702 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

No, not on the three I have installed. I assume because the material they use can be easily peeled off and reapplied it's not necessary to have the hole.

OK thanks

#2708 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

I pulled the gate behind Stay Puft and gently grinded the corner off (rounded). I also made a bent plastic simular to what was suggested. I also enlarged the holes on the gate to slightly move it upward. I do have the green spring and the stiffer auto-plunge spring. None of this solved the problem.
The ball seems to "rattle" and consistently not smoothly rounding the corner. I've filmed in slow-mo to watch and it appears to be a rattle and slowdown. Sometimes not even making it to PKE and falling down to the ECTO goggles.
I'm thinking it's a ramp issue where the ball skips from right to left then hits the inner wall.
To sum it up. Some of the above fixes resolve issues but some of us have other things going on.
thanks for all your help guys.

Exactly,
That right back corner is problematic, I ended up removing the one way gate all together.

#2720 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I just pushed the entire bracket up a little and played 2 flawless games. Shots were 100% orbit and plunge.
I imagine over a short period of time it will settle back down since I really did nothing to permanently keep it up. Give it a try a see if it fixes your issues.

Man I wish it was that easy.
I have even used my dremel to remove and round out that bracket, I've tried washers to angle it , etc. The game plays best with it gone in my case.

#2723 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I have a theory after closer inspection. My switch rests against the outside of the opening instead of in the middle. Could it be that when the ball first makes contact with the switch, the switch isn't being depressed because of how it's resting against the wood, and is actually pushing the ball into the air hitting the corner of the gate?
The angle of the ball on an orbit shot would make it even harder for the switch to depress.

My switch works fine , except on really fast and most likely an airborne ball.
My issue is that darn gate makes the ball RATTLE around . Killing smooth orbit shots and deflecting the ball to god who knows where .
Honestly, it's the only issue I have had with the game . Great fun, fast and friends really enjoy playing it .

#2725 3 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

What happens when it's gone and you hit up the firehouse lane? Does it roll back into the shooter lane?

No not at all , it's fast smooth orbit shot that exits from the Ecto goggle lane / right orbit .
It does hit the one way gate exiting the right orbit and delivered to the right flipper.

#2767 3 years ago

OK Chuck ,
I need some more help. Still talking about the upper right orbit and plunge.
Basically getting credit for the top lanes on the plunge is impossible . Either one of two things happen on a standard plunge . Either wbtd starts instantly on a full plunge or battle slimmer on a plunge that falls into the top lanes . This was not an issue with the older code . Is this a code thing and adjustment thing or just a thing ??? HELP !

#2768 3 years ago

I guess the real issue is , why is battle slimmer being activated on the plunge before dropping into the top lanes ???

#2770 3 years ago

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ghost switch an opto switch under the ecto goggles? That works fine .
Are you referring to switch #55 , see pic, behind stay puft , is the ball supposed clear switch #55 on the plunge and not activate it ?

Screenshot_2017-04-02-09-29-27 (resized).png

#2773 3 years ago

That's weird how and why would the ghost target be activated on plunge .
It doesn't accidentally trigger any other times at all though while playing .
I can see what you are saying , but don't think that's it .

#2774 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Chuckwurt is talking about the yellow target that triggers slimer.
BTW. I had the issue wbtd started every plunge. This started right after installing shooter lane cliffy. I found the switch was not making reliably. . I tested and adjusted the shooter lane switch and I have not seen the problem since.

The switch in the shooter lane not registering?
I do have a cliffy.
How did you adjust it , just pull it up a little ?

#2775 3 years ago

OK so after throwing the ball for awhile, it appears that anytime I plunge at the beginning of any given ball 1, 2 or 3 and the ball activates switch 55 behind stay puft man my skill shots instantly go away, top lanes and selected Blue Arrow and only leaves the ghost target lit and only option.
Edit : Unless I leave it on wbtd it will then instantly start that mode when plunge activates switch #55.
WTH !!!!

#2777 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Go into switch test and put the ball in the shooter lane. Does it register?

Apparently not ,
Went into switch test , it says press any switch to Begin .Placed ball in shooter lane and nothing .

#2782 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Check your switch to be sure the wire is not broken or the switch is not dead.
Press the switch all the way in from under the playfield in test switch mode. Hopefully the switch is not dead.

Thanks Chuck & Chuck,
Switch works fine when I use my finger .
I'll give it go .

#2783 3 years ago

All fixed
Lifted switch mech and tightened screws.

Thanks Guys.

#2785 3 years ago

Man Big Thanks again to both Chucks !

Just finished playing for a couple hours with a buddy and what a pleasure to have it working properly.
Thanks Guys

#2794 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Will this work for the right ramp fix (HEX spacer)?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5008-02
Also - any pic of the after product would be helpful. Still not seeing where this actually goes.

Not quite,
You need a 1&5/8" hex not a 5/8
About an inch after the wire form ramp begins there is a Phillips head screw directly in the middle of the wire form , the hex spacer is screwed into aND immediately below that Phillips head screw.

#2807 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

RE: A hard plunge rattling behind Stay Puft and falling in PKE or ECTO Goggle orbit instead of a smooth orbit.
I grinded down the gate corner as much as possible - didn't fix it. Raised the gate as much as possible - didn't fix it. Made sure Mr. Puft's ass was out of the way and still would rattle shots in the the PKE lanes instead of around the orbit. (yes, I have the softer spring on the plunger).
UNTIL, I added a well fitted piece of plastic on the left side of the shooter lane wall. Basically about 8 inches long and just a few inches high to cover the metal on the left before the drop off. This helps force the ball to the right and on to the curve behind Stay Puft. Played 10 games and made every plunged orbit smooth as Gozers butt. If it stays consistent I'll post the dimensions and pictures.
It felt good to have the 100% consistent plunge to left flipper. Not sure if it because of this but I made a new personal high score: 5.6B.

This sounds good, for the plunge .
But what about right orbit shots going through that gate ? It must rattle , no ?

#2834 3 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

**CONFIRMED** It's the damn Mylar. I removed it today and the shot worked perfectly 100% of the time, no matter how hard the flip.
If you have problems with the Ecto lane shot not registering 100% of the time, especially with harder shots, and you have Mylar in the lane, remove it.

Maybe that's what is causing the ball to rattle through that back gate behind staypuft as well. Interesting.

1 week later
#2985 3 years ago
Quoted from BD_Designs:

Back Right Orbit Gate - lately, when the ball is launched, as soon as it hits that back right gate, it automatically registers the skill shot hit rather than a completed shot doing so. This seems like a sensitivity issue, but I wanted to see if anyone else has noticed this and if there is a successful adjustment for it?

This was happening to me ,
Check your shooter lane switch, especially if you have installed cliffys in there .
The switch may not high enough and registering. I loosened the switch mech , 1/8, nut driver, pushed it up with my finger, held in place and retightened .

#2991 3 years ago
Quoted from BD_Designs:

Thanks! I will give that a look tonight. I haven't installed a Cliffy in the shooter lane so nothing is on top of the switch, but it's possible it needs some adjustment. Have you had any issues with that back right orbit gate being too sensitive and registering skill shot hits prematurely?

The back right gate is completely mechanical and is does not register anything.
My back right was rattling the ball around pretty bad all the time even after modifying it , so I just flat out removed it all together.
Now I have not removed the mylar in the lane to see if that is the issue . But I may try it .

#3017 3 years ago

OK guys to remove the back right gate , all you need to do is remove the plastic under stay puft, the inside corner plastic, 2 nuts . That gives plenty of space to remove the gate with the 2 screws on the back of the back board , easy access with playfield on the rails and pulled out a bit .
I have done this at least 3 times in an attempt the fix the notorious "Rattle", I cut that entire corner off the bracket with my dremel , but to no avail. I just removed it completely.

2 weeks later
#3079 3 years ago

Can some one take a pic of the captive ball / wire gate assy from the right side next to the ecto goggles for me . I can't figure out how to reassemble . It has a plastic post with a black spacer trying to see where the black spacer goes.
Thanks

20170504_144547 (resized).jpg

#3081 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

You should have gotten a part manual with your machine. It has an exploded view of this assembly that's shows how it gets assembled. I had to reference it after I install the pink captive balls.

Thanks Bent,
Got it.

#3083 3 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys just noticed this for the first time. I updated my Premium to game code 1.13 a couple weeks after it was released and all is well but when I start the game it shows it as a LE. I double checked my game code on my usb, should I re download it and install it again or does it matter?? Or is it just getting reported Wrong.

Heck No,
You just increased the value

1 week later
#3097 3 years ago

image (resized).jpg

Can someone please let me know the size of those little hex head / Phillips screws that holds the coin slot bezel in place .
Literally my dog ate them

1 week later
#3137 3 years ago

I will say that most of my airballs come from the left 2x target because the left front lip of the ramp flap is just a hair raised, causing the ball to get air before it hits the target . I do have mylar over the ramp flap but need to figure out how to get it smooth.

#3168 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Another question if possible. Could someone take a photo of the switch gap of magna sling leaf switch? My original playfield function really well, this one the slings are dead more times than not. I cannot recall how sensitive the switches were if at all different. But I'm guessing the rubber has to deflect way took much to activate the magnets.

Before you start adjusting the switches ,
Flip the Rubbers around on the Slings .
Put the long Sling rubber where the small post ring is and vice versa.
It helps TREMENDOUSLY.

#3203 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey Guys,
Have a minor issue where my left slingshot sensor (not sure what you call it) keep coming out from behind the rubber and sitting in front of it. Anyone have a solution to this? I am not able to lower my sling rubber as there is no room between the other rubber that is there...
Thanks.

Switch the rubbers around .
Put the small rings on top and the long sling rubber on the bottom

2 weeks later
#3260 3 years ago
Quoted from cantbfrank:

2. When plunging, the ball rolls over the right orbit switch. If you have selected who "bought the dog" mode, the mode activates. If you selected another mode, modes shots are deactivated when the ball rolls over the right orbit switch. It seems the software does not realize this was a plunge shot.

This is very frustrating.
This is a problem with the shooter lane switch not registering.
Check switch under pf make sure the 1/8th in. Screws are not loose and it is tight and as high as it can be. Also if you have cliffys in the shooter lane it could cause th ball to sit higher up and not register that switch. Maybe a little bend of the switch arm if needed after checking under the pf.

2 weeks later
#3367 3 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

So sad. My subway coil stopped working. What do I do now ? It looks like it burnt. And my left flipper started sticking a little bit as well. Nooooooooo. Any body help ? Only 4 months old. 3800plays


3800 plays in 4 months, 31 games a day .

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