So far I have seen two issues.

Left Flipper high power will cut out and only the hold power will be present. Checked all connections an everything is okay. Could be a coding issue.

Slimmer does not always register. There is a specific test for slimmer but its only a motor test. Nothing registers in the standard switch test but during a game test hitting slimmer with a baseball bat will activate it.

Here is a breakdown of slimer. It looks like 5 is the actuator plate and 10 is the switch board. I'll disassemble tomorrow to see what the actual adjustment is.

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So here is how the mech works. It works like a tilt bob! The braided wire registers as a switch hit when it leaves or touches the actuator plate.

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I did test the nudging to make sure that slimmer wasn't registering hits. He is not.

I have no idea what the spec is supposed to be from stern. Running the cable over that connector worked in this case. The only thing I see that could be bad is vibration from the cable stressing out the connector for the flasher board. The black plastic on top keeps everything snug.

There doesn't seem to be any type of adjustment other that cutting the wire ties and the shrink tubing to adjust the length of the braided cable.

No for what I did not have to cut into the shrink tubing or snip wire ties. That was only some outside thinking if the issue was with the length of the exposed cable. I'm curious to hear if Stern tech support has any suggestions or recommendations.

As far as the wonky left flipper. I swapped node boards 8 and 9 since they are the same models on this game and the issue hasn't come back. Going to get a replacement node board from my distributor.

The flipper issue is going to be addressed with a code update coming out in the next week or so.

Had another issue creep up not a big deal. When shooting the train ramp the ball would not feed correctly to the end of the ramp. Instead it would smack into the corner of the lower ramp and exit via the containment hole. The bracket for the mini-divertor moved causing the stainless steel flap to protrude slightly. Bent the stainless flap back to flush and it resolved the issue.

As far as the drop targets they have to be backhanded.

I have noticed that after the code update one of the drop targets will stay up if there is a multiplayer game.

It is not a defect. It is part of the leveling process where the playfield is sanded flat after the inserts have been installed. The fissures in the insert are more apparent on larger inserts especially if they are clear.

I summarized the issues fixed and issues outstanding on the first post. It's always disappointing to see how these self-help threads get. Also can Captain remove the 20 tagged machines that has nothing to do with this thread? It would be appreciated.

Besides the fixes someone please made a plastic protector set especially for the slings. There is already a massive crack in the left slingshot plastic. This is a location machine so wear and tear is expected. Clear, blue, or purple would look sweet.

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Sweet thanks perryd I had no idea!! Ordered!

Sorry CaptainNeo it seems someone signed up as CaptainNeo2 and started adding them. My mistake.

I'm sure the easiest fix is going to be programming the 3X standup as a compensation hit during the slimmer mode.

The most reliable adjustment to this has been tuning the VUK value down to 20 and letting it bounce off the top of the left sling.

I can't wait to see what has changed. From the drawing that was included in the first make-shift manuals it isn't really an exact representation of the ball and cabling.

The switch has been adjusted and the issue still exists so I'm assuming that this will need to be corrected in the next revision of code.

Looks like from the picture you also got a thicker gauge wireform.

Usually with wire forms you have two types. Barbed and non-barbed. With both types you have to take extra caution when removing them as you can damage the playfield. In the case of Ghostbusters if they did increase the gauge then you would have to pry the old one out, pre-drill a slightly larger hole, then pound in the new rail.

Working on pins isn't for the faint of heart.

You don't have to install the center post if you don't want to. The center post thing is really dumb. The people actually installing a center post in their game is ever dumber. Sometimes pinball is hard.

Hilarious!

This happened at first but had resolved itself after about the first hundred games. I learned how to short plunge and start a mode fast because of it! Haha

Added this fix to the list.

Stern posted the 1.05 software for the LE's the other day. The LE's are coming!!!!!

People are replacing the red/orange spring with a green one. The ball seems to be hitting the bottom of stay puft then doesn't make it around the orbit.

Every pinball manufacturer has their issues some maybe more than others. BLY/WMS games had issues too just most people on Pinside weren't in the hobby or didn't own machines then. Just from 91 to 99 there were 31 officially documented service bulletins from BLY/WMS. I remember games would be un-boxed and they wouldn't even turn on!

I think your comparison is off because I'm not sure what 10K Stern pins you are referring too.

JJP does the same thing. I'm not surprised.

Although I agree with this I will say that Stern identified this with TWD. The spring used on the woodburry drop target which is a blue spring is stronger than the red springs they use on all the other drop targets. The GB manual doesn't have the drop target assembly included so I can't cross reference the part to see if they are the same.

Try moving the diverter flap with your hand so that the bracket is closer to the coil. Then move the ball up the ramp and see if the diverter moves.

I installed the PBL upgraded springs on the Scoleri brothers targets and they drop 100% of the time now. We shall be how long the drop or the drop lip holds up with the increased spring strength.

Whatever you do don't install the upgraded springs from PBL on the Scoleri targets. Drops are machine gunning because the spring tension is to much.

So the original springs that are installed on the targets are the stronger blue springs. This is the same spring installed on the woodburry drop target in TWD. I have tried moving up a couple windings but there wasn't a change. I did stretch the PBL springs a little because I felt the tension would break the hook on the drop target. They are pretty powerful. Well about 60 games later there is an issue with the targets machine gunning. At this point people can live with just backhanding the targets.

Number 1 - issue has been noted before. This is evident in gameplay when hitting the left scoop and it doesn't always award you the shot but it will kick the ball out. This has to be a coding thinh.
Number 2 - adjust the kickout power down to 20 to kick to top left sling

Don't do it you will end up with target latching issues. Just backhand the shots.

GB has been on route since day 1 and the Scoleri targets still don't drop unless you backhand them. Good advise otherwise.

Are you using standard flipper rubber? Because GB is definitely to fast for silicone or urethane. The game should slow down a little as it gets played but its still quick as hell. If you didn't already buy them get the sling protectors on ASAP.