I count two posts on this page alone that are actually on topic. Can we keep this to actual issues with people's games so that current owners and potential future owners have somewhere to reference fixes for any issues they might have?
At this point I think someone should start a new thread that lists the actual issues mentioned in here and start fresh. Shouldn't be too many. Like less than 10.
It's gonna suck looking for answers amungst all the madness.
Unfortunately that's the rub with being an early adopter. Doesn't hurt to ask stern for help though if they start shipping newer games with a slight change to them to fix some of these issues. I'm sure if it's easy enough for them to ship you the part, they will.
Quoted from Spelunk71:
Do folks think the shooter lane protector is necessary for home use (though playing the hell out of it)? My dealer advised against it, but I definitely want this one to last.
Mylar on it is all you need IMO. If you put nothing, you'll definitely get wear that starts around 500 plays
Quoted from JMK:
Just played a few games on my GBLE and noticed that my Ecto Goggles didn't seem to be functioning properly. I finished my game, turned it off and re-started it.
When the game turned on, the screen read: 'Updating Node Board Runtime' (underneath it shows the numbers 1 8 9). Next screen says: 'Update Failed'. Please power cycle game. (Not sure what that means). At the same time, my Ecto Goggles flickered during this error message. During gameplay, the ghosts come on intermittently and no longer dissolve.
After all of this happened, I thought I would try a factory reset. Well, that seemed to be a mistake as after the reset, the game became glitchy: the subway ramp no longer locked balls, Slimer became finnicky and the trough didn't seem to be reading balls properly.
Aside from a possible Ecgo Goggles issue, is it possible the software has now been compromised.
This is all so disheartening after a few amazing weeks of owning this game. (I posted this in the other GB thread as well).
Thanks for any thoughts on this.
Call stern support or your distro.
The scoop power was simply lowered on the one on route near me and it consistently feeds the left flipper for a dead bounce to the right flipper.
Quoted from RipleYYY:
about slimer, i think its hard to talk/share experience, as we all have "different" feeling about it
i want mine making contact ONLY if its a direct powerfull center hit
as example, dont want to get contact for an unwated soft touch from a side or a ball simply falling from the bumpers...
and at the moment lets admit its working as that
Not always. I'm playing an early run slimer on location today that direct HARD hits aren't registering. It's hard enough to light the modes, if he's not registering when you clip him and or hit him dead on at full speed, that's just too mean.
Quoted from Rockytop:
One thing that I'm sure will be fixed with code is that when you're in a mode and go into multiball you lose the mode.
It should run concurrently with the multiball or start back up when the mutliball is over in my opinion.
Are you sure? Just watched a guy take who brought the dog into MB and was getting mode shot awards.
I also could've sworn I started spooked librarian last night before MB and when Mb was done that mode was completed.
Quoted from Pinballlew:
On the ghosting inserts posted here. Someone had asked if it is best to let the game cure before plunging a first ball. Nobody answered...anyone know? Does this matter at all or is it if it is going to ghost it will ghost? Anyone know?
From what I understand, if it is going to ghost, it is going to ghost. Just a questions of how much and if or when it stops.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:
Does anyone believe in mylar on the area the ball drains? Is it necessary?
Depends. It seems with these newer run playfields from stern the clear around the drain hole will chip. If not covered with Mylar or something comparable I've seen them worn down to the wood in that spot. Outta sight, but some people care about it.
Can you guys post a picture of the post you replaced? I read the prior posts about this but I am having trouble seeing what people are referring to.
Quoted from gweempose:
Is there something different about the flipper design on this game? I'm having trouble dialing them in so I can do the little finesse moves like tip passes. The EOS on both flippers seems fine, and I've adjusted both flipper button switch gaps, but I still can't get it to be as responsive as I'd like.
To do a tip pass you're just holding up one flipper and using the tip to bounce the ball over to the other flipper right?
I do these with ease on the GBs I've played. Is yours giving each time you try or something?
Quoted from Arcade:
My game had the same issue and then just magically started working right last week. lol
I assume you are referring to letting the ball slowly roll on a down flipper, and then lightly tapping the flipper button to get the flipper to just barely move and tap the ball to the other flipper.
If so, for the longest my game refused to do this like all my other sterns do just fine.
Now suddenly and for no reason it is working great.
Wait you can tap pass on modern sterns??? Whoa baby please post a video. I don't understand how this can be done.
Quoted from Arcade:
Need to edit that.
I meant when the first flipper was up. Not down. Sorry
First post edited to read correctly.
Oh okay. Yeah that's one of my go to moves on new sterns too. Especially TWD. I find it harder to do on spike games. Feel like I have to let out the flipper button more or something.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:
Keep in mind that some right orbit shots will not activate unless you make it all the way around to the left side. So you try backhanding it up and only makes it to the pops, does not count, is not a switch problem. It's the way certain shots are programmed.
What about when you're in who brought the dog and I hit a lit right orbit, it comes all the way around back to my left flipper and doesn't gimmie credit for it? Or when the mode is lit and ready to start at the right ladder and same thing, loops all the way around to the left flipper and doesn't start a mode.
Not sure why this happens on the prem only, but the 3 different ones I've played have all done this on hard direct shots around the right orbit.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:
also what code are you running? The orbit acts differently during different revisions.
Latest code. Also I was mistaken about it going all the way around. It was dropping into the pops because the controlled gate remained closed.
It only happens on strong shots. 100% working on shots that barely make it back to the switch.
Quoted from Rager170:
I decided to take off the Ecto Goggle reflector piece since it was easier to clean this way.
My problem is that I cannot get the screws back in due to the plastic above them. At this point I believe I have stripped them....
Anyone have any ideas for this? I am thinking perhaps just zip tying where the screws were to hold it on...
Put a nut and a bolt there?
Quoted from golfingdad1:
Is the 2nd switch you are speaking of the same one that starts the wbtd mode.
If so I have the same issue with it not registering on hard fast shots but on the other hand wbtd mode will start often / all the time / when plugging and I don't want it to when plugging to the top lanes ??? Suggestions? Code issue ?
Were you playing WBTD mode and drained then it started back up on the next plunge? If so, that's normal. You can change it in the setting though. If you've never started that mode and it starts on the plunge that is not correct. No idea what's happening there.
Quoted from gliebig:
I'm so tempted to pick up a GB, but 55 pages of issues/tweaks/fixes?! Is this game really that much of a POS? Not sure I want to go down that road.
If this is your first NIB then I'd say you'd have more tweaks to deal with than you'd like. But not all games are created equal and imo most of the quirks with this game are worked out simply through playing the snot out of it.
Quoted from wtatumjr:
I'm new to Stern code updates. I guess you go to the website and download to zip drive then transfer to game. Where do you plug the zip in the board - there are 2 USB ports on the board in back box and one port on top. Then do you just power the game on or do you have to use the utilities menu?
BTW - my GB has been error free since new - only added plastics and lowered hex spacer. AS has been great too, right out of the box.
Load code file onto a thumb drive (.spk) file.
Turn the game off and wait a couple minutes. Plug the drive into either USB port on the bottom of the board in the head. Turn the game on. Follow the prompts on the screen. Update starts automatically
Quoted from swinks:
my game has been working really well and then after about 450 games the left scoop just sudden snapped the spot welds - I removed and on inspection noticed the spot welds aren't penetrating and bonding well through both pieces = weld intensity not correct or spot welded time frame too short. So I dare say this will occur to others in time.
bracket drops down
then lifted up
to remove - remove the plastic which will then expose 2 x 5/64 allen headed bolts and remove those first
lift the playfield up and remove the hex head wood screw so the assembly can drop out
the broken spot welds
will look to see if I can drill and tap and report back unless someone else can recommend another solution. I could get a work mate to SS weld but then would have to wait until Tuesday next week......
Send all these to stern and get it replaced. I'm sure they will hook you up.
Quoted from golfingdad1:
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ghost switch an opto switch under the ecto goggles? That works fine .
Are you referring to switch #55 , see pic, behind stay puft , is the ball supposed clear switch #55 on the plunge and not activate it ?
I'm referring to the ghost target. The thing that causes slimer to come out during normal play. I'm thinking if he's coming out right on the plunge, that switch my be gapped too close and is registering when it shouldn't.
Quoted from golfingdad1:
OK so after throwing the ball for awhile, it appears that anytime I plunge at the beginning of any given ball 1, 2 or 3 and the ball activates switch 55 behind stay puft man my skill shots instantly go away, top lanes and selected Blue Arrow and only leaves the ghost target lit and only option.
Go into switch test and put the ball in the shooter lane. Does it register?
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
That's good, and also a bit concerning, to know. Thanks. I'm surprised Stern hasn't fixed the issue this long into production...
Is there a fix for the right orbit switch not registering?
I think some people have had success adjusting the switch so it sits above the PF higher. Not sure though. Nothing definitive yet I don't think.
Quoted from CosmoJoe:
Any advice would be appreciated! Anyone else have this symptom with flippers on GB?
No but my GOT is spike I have noticed this happening with my right flipper. I am thinking the cabinet switch needs adjusted so that the contacts of the switch separate sooner than they are thus the flipper drops sooner. However, my issue is that for the right flipper, the flipper button is almost all the way back out when the flipper drops and the left flipper drops when the button is about halfway out or when you would typically expect it too.
This issue makes post passing from right to left almost impossible too. I'll report back once I mess with it more tonight.
My game has a butt ton of plays on it (4-5k), so I guess I could be nearing a rebuild but they seem plenty strong still. Just the timing is what's off.
Quoted from gweempose:
But my GoT is Spike, and it's fine. That's what's so confusing. Is it possible that Stern made some sort of change after GoT?
Every GOT I've played had this issue too. Cannot remember on B66. Haven't tried to do the tap too much. Don't remember KISS having this though. Shrugs.
Quoted from gweempose:
My GoT is an LE. Did they run those first? Maybe the change was made midway through the run? I'm obviously speculating here. There has to be some logical reason why the flipper feel completely different on some games.
Well I definitely have a pro and have played mostly premiums and only a couple LEs. I want to say they all felt the same, but maybe not.
Quoted from DruTheFu:
I'm beginning to notice that my right pop bumper is starting to have a mind of its own. During gameplay, the right pop bumper is starting to fire randomly by itself, even when the ball is not in the bumper area, and even registers bumper rewards. I've tested the coil in the service menu, and it tests fine. I've lifted the PF and checked the connections, and I don't see a break in the solder. I've checked the molex and crimped connectors, and they seem all secure.
Any recommendations on anything else to check or test?
Switch is too sensitive. Adjust it so the gap between the switch blades is wider.
Pretty sure Pez has a pro. No mag slings. Up the coil pulse to hard and see if that helps. Also increase the slope.
They are tweaks. The game isn't unplayable if you do nothing. Just need to make adjustments to get it dialed in just like getting a used unshopped game. Except way less work. Just takes people some time to figure out resolutions with new game issues.
name a Stern game with lots of airballs besides GB. haha. Is it JT? I don't know. Just break the game in and they stop. The GB pro I used for tournaments never gets them.
Quoted from billrz:
So sad. My subway coil stopped working. What do I do now ? It looks like it burnt. And my left flipper started sticking a little bit as well. Nooooooooo. Any body help ? Only 4 months old. 3800plays
Sorry. Gonna have to maintain the game especially if you're putting that kind of play on it. Rebuild the flipper, test the coil, if shorted, replace it.
Quoted from billrz:
Coil is burnt,the test doesn't recognize it. I'm hoping warranty will cover it. My left flipper is sticking as well. Just enough to be annoying. My distributor should. D able to help me. It's my first and only pin,im not super versed in the tech side but am trying. The community on here is helpful. When you say rebuild the flipper? Im pretty sure the problem is inside the flipper coil. I've checked all the screws and whatnot. All snug. The little nub on the end of the coil pops out too much when the flipper is engaged. If I push in on it the flipper goes down,if I hold it and flip it works perfectly?
Great resource for all flipper rebuild questions. FYI my coil stop was destroyed on my GOT pro after 5k plays.
Quoted from cscmtp:
I'm sure its probably somewhere in this thread, but in my defense its 70 pages long, can someone tell me how to tweak Slimer (or do I need to call Stern for a part?) because it basically won't register when I hit it...and its completely useless right now.
The mech kind of works like a tilt bob. Pretty sure you can adjust it.
Quoted from jyeakley:
I have an interesting thing happening with the Scoleri targets. I noticed weirdness during gameplay, so I went into diagnostics menu. The left target goes up fine, but does not go down (all I hear is clicking). The right target goes down fine, but only stays up maybe once out of every 4 times.
I do have the pinball life spring fix installed.
Switch back to the stock springs.
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