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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

4 years ago



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  • 4,469 posts
  • 528 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1419 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Nothing all the games have that its in the code. It should be fixed when there is a code update.

Holy Smokes. I was just about to ask this question.
I saw it on my machine on day one and thought this has to be a bug, but then with the new code updates coming I started to think "I better make sure this is not a real problem".
So just to restate it: This a code bug.

"Tech Alert"
52 Check - has the wrong name on it
65 Check - has the wrong name on it
92 Check - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem
93 Check - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem
94 Check - Is called NOT USED - Not a listed switch in Ghostbusters Prem

See my video of the false switch reports:

20161007_113555 (resized).jpg

20161007_113516 (resized).jpg

20161007_113523 (resized).jpg

20161007_113529 (resized).jpg

20161007_113509 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1520 4 years ago

My overalls look brown, but colors seem quite rich and no ghosting. Over 1000 plays so far. GB Premium. Late Sept build date.

Quoted from ronaldvg:

Hi Guys, I may be on to something here: Look at the attached pictures. They were taken under the same light conditions with the same camera at the same time (10 seconds apart).
The colors are very different. In one the overalls are brownish, in the other more green. This is in real life also the case. The more brownish one does have ghosting (look at Tobins) and the greener has not.
Overall the one with the greener overalls does have much better colors such as the blues and the purples. The other playfield looks more washed out when looking at it directly.
Maybe we can confirm this is the same for all playfields that are having ghosting ?

20161030_125644-1 (resized).jpg

20161030_125614 (resized).jpg

#1530 4 years ago

I've wondered about all the ghosting & de-laminated inserts , if the shaker is partly responsible. A lot of LE owners talk about the inserts and every LE has a shaker motor. It makes sense that the shaker could rattle the inserts to the point that they crack free. If that happens, then its only a matter of time before it gets worse. I know people have had ghosting and no shaker, but the I'm suggesting the shaker could encourage the problem

#1534 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Agree. I have a pro and premium with a shaker on both. No issues.

Thanks for feedback everyone on the shaker. I'll continue to use it.

#1535 4 years ago

Possible Slimer Issue --

On my Premium, Slimer rotates down and then only stays for a few seconds and then goes back up as if I had hit him. Some times I don't hit him at all but he goes back up anyway. I tested the switch and it seems really sensitive jiggling 2-3 switch closes wile rotating.
I'm still on 1.05 and I know 1.10 suppresses slimer hits while coming into the playfield. Has anyone else seen this behavior?

#1536 4 years ago

My Slimer is too sensitive, but no fix found yet. I need to figure this. Slimer is registering hits on himself and then going back up.

Quoted from tpir:

..Does anyone have an overly sensitive newer Slimer mech that they were able to adjust?

#1543 4 years ago
Quoted from madscientist101:

Thank you... Any one try the spring set to fix the scoleri brothers targets from pinball life? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4251
I had to adjust one of them to drop flush from factory... I do notice they don't drop very good yet I haven't put many plays on my game as I just set it up yesterday.

After the stories I've heard, I just shoot the boys gently and they go down. a direct power hit bounces off. The new spring causes machine gunning or premature dropping for no reason.
I've gotten pretty good at knocking them down followed by the phrase "Two in the box, ready to go, we be fast, they be slow" .

#1546 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

My Slimer is too sensitive, but no fix found yet. I need to figure this. Slimer is registering hits on himself and then going back up.

Ran some tests & tried re-adjusting the parts, but adjusting did not help.

Using a black twist tie looped around the steel cable and then zip-tied under the swinging shaft to lock it down , tamed the "Slimer false hits". Fixed it.
The twist tie is a loop and only corrals the swinging nature of Slimer. Now it requires a hit to make contact.
Now Slimer consistently comes down & stays down until he's wacked 2 or 3 times then goes back up.
There's a sound effect when a hit is registered (squish!) .
(GB Premium - late Sept build)

slimer fix2 (resized).jpg

slimer fix3 (resized).jpg

#1547 4 years ago
Quoted from paul_8788:

What have you tried? Mine was pretty sensitive but adjusted just fine. In slimer test mode hitting it would register multiple hits as it rocked back and forth.
iirc all you have to do is take the top plate off the slimer mech, loosen the two nuts under that, and slightly move the plastic block on the front in or our a mm or so. Tighten, test, re-adjust until you get it right.

Thanks Paul, I was trying this and it only seemed to make it worse but I think I'll try again.
I need to get the steel cable away from the front edge of the contact ring . It seemed to get closer however I move it.

#1550 4 years ago
Quoted from paul_8788:

Alright. If it helps, I just took a look at mine and the large plastic block is further back than yours, about 1/2 mm in behind the metal bracket. That should move everything on slimer back a bit.

Thanks Paul. I've got it adjusted now.

#1558 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I modified MT45s version as it seemed like the ball was hitting as it hit the flap.

I had the same issue so instantly did this to my home made airball protector.
I'm hoping all the sellers are updating theirs as well.
There's no need for the ball to have to hit the protector.

#1564 4 years ago

This is more a STERN issue or a "Don't let this happen to you" video .
The link is time linked right before the "oops" .
I feel real his heart break.

#1566 4 years ago

I've seen some folks have asked about how the stern side rails attach and look. Today I found a photo of the rails installed.
I can see there are extra screw holes beyond the factory screw holes but they appear optional. If anyone has installed these rails, I would love to see some hi res photos and your opinion of the rails.

closeup- stern GB rails (resized).jpg

#1568 4 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I thought of those but the price was too high in my humble opinion. I'm not a fan of mods on games because most look horrible and tacky but those Stern side rails looked really cool. I just thought they were too much money for what they were.
I opted instead for regular lollipop rails which I think cost me $60 and protect the cabinet which was my primary concern.

They look great! May I ask where you bought them?

#1580 4 years ago

Hey everyone, I have an issue I hope you all can help with.
I just installed the cliffy shooter lane protector and the stronger spring on the auto launch.
-- Now every time I shoot the ball, I instantly get "who brought the dog". Every ball launch, you hear "who brought the dog".
As soon as it reached the top. I've also seen a few times where it kicks 2 balls into the shooter one at a time quickly which never happened before. - What starts "who brought the dog ?" Where should I start looking?
Thanks for your help
Chuck.

#1581 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Hey everyone, I have an issue I hope you all can help with.
I just installed the cliffy shooter lane protector and the stronger spring on the auto launch.
-- Now every time I shoot the ball, I instantly get "who brought the dog". Every ball launch, you hear "who brought the dog".
As soon as it reached the top. I've also seen a few times where it kicks 2 balls into the shooter one at a time quickly which never happened before. - What starts "who brought the dog ?" Where should I start looking?
Thanks for your help
Chuck.

RESOLVED:
The issues are resolved & behavior is back to normal. I was doing switch tests and saw the shooter lane ball switch was not registering consistently so I had to adjust the ball sense switch to ensure the ball actually made it trigger every time.

After putting in the cliffy, the ball sat a little too high & the lane switch was not engaging every time.
It was very close before. The cliffy was just enough to put it out adjustment.

The double balls & the weird "who brought the dog" behavior have all stopped.
It seems like the system was very confused about where the balls were in the system. Like the balls suddenly appeared on the playfield & in play. So after installing a lane protector, its a good idea to test your shooter-lane ball switch very carefully with an actual ball.

#1582 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

just to say nice & tanx that i got my wire protector... but the other way, pity they didnt also add a new (perfect) wire in the set...

Its great Stern is sending these out. I was about to call them, but was working my machine today so I decided to take a look at my wire to see if it was bent. Imagine my surprise when I saw strengthener accessory was already there!

20161111_110453[1] (resized).jpg

#1590 4 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

I'm wondering if this is my problem as well. Cause this started happening after installing my cliffy's as well.
How did you "adjust the ball sense switch"?

(update: 1.05) (adjusting the ball sensor switch) (refer to photo)

Step1: Test your ball switch be sure you have this problem. (mine started after installing lane protector)
(not the fault of the cliffy, but the cliffy raised the ball just enough so my switch did not make contact most of the time.

Step2: Try raising the switch - loosen the screws and raise up. (for me it was not enough)

Step 3: (only if needed)
(Turn machine off or you will get smacked by the auto launch)
Press wire (ball sensor) down from the top with one hand
Carefully adjust (bend) wire portion of switch upward by a millimeter using a needle nose.
Now the leaf will be pressed down more on the switches actuator button when a ball is present.

BALL SWITCH (resized).jpg

#1591 4 years ago

New heavy auto launch spring compared to original spring.

20161111_103325[1] (resized).jpg

#1597 4 years ago

When it comes to a new machine like Ghostbusters..
* Where can we buy a replacements for cracked plastics ?
* Is it ok to call Stern-support line to order parts or so we need to buy them from a site like Marco and hope they are in stock?

* I see in the manual, there are plastics maintenance kits.
Q: What are the pieces in this kit?

Ghostbusters LE Playfield Plastics Kit 803-5000-H6
Ghostbusters Premium Playfield Plastics Kit 803-5000-H7

gb parts maint (resized).jpg

#1599 4 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

What plastics did you break so others can make a protector

I think an airball wacked my plastic just under the library.
Before I added an airball protector I had airballs hit the top of the library as well.
Screenshot_2016-11-14-12-52-49 (2) (resized).jpg

#1609 4 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

I know people have said a 'Cliffy' but I do not know where to purchase said version of this protector? Does anyone one have this one? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2120) I'm not sure where to go with this.
Are the slot switch protectors worth it as well? I'm sure I'll have more questions since like I said this is my first machine. Loving it so far.

Fitzhume, Just IM Cliffy - https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/cliffy
I ordered mine from him which has 3 parts.

Cliff is a really nice guy , great to work with, and produces an excellent product.

GB-shooter-set-cliffy (resized).jpg

#1610 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

just received my empty box for playfield replacement from Stern

Any photos you take to document this be great to see and would help others who have to walk through this process.

#1612 4 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

Ring Stern and explain what happened. DON'T e-mail, ring them. The guys on tech support are very helpful.

Thanks StopTap. I Called Stern Support today and talked to Chaz.
Super nice guy. He asked me to shoot him a photo and my address and said he would send me the part.

I looked back though my photos and I see its broken for a while and I somehow missed it.
My GB-Premium is 90 days old.

#1620 4 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Can someone post a closeup of the 3 pieces installed?

* Here's a video from Pinball Super nova installing the 3 parts on a Kiss pinball.


* Here's a photo of the basic 3 parts installed.
cliffy2 (resized).jpg

#1621 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Shooter lane and drain hole also are damaged.

I've not seen drain hole damage. Cliffy has a protector for this, but the ball seems to be moving pretty slow so I'm trying wrap my brain around what the wear is at the drain. Any photos of drain wear would be great to see.

#1624 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

When the ball races and slams into the drain... it will bounce off the plastic apron and can slam into the front edge of the outhole cutout in the playfield. That takes the abuse on the edge, and the clear can chip and separate there from the ball hits.

Yup, I get it now. I need the cliffy for this ASAP.
drain1-gb (resized).jpg

drain (resized).jpg

#1631 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

They are available from Joe, at Pin Graffix, Curly at Little shop of games, and myself direct.
Mine, in clear is $19.95 including shipping.
Art

I love the airball protector from oldpinguy ! Its well cut, polished shiny edge, a bit flexible so it wont break on you.
I love that its clear, I don't even notice it.
20161111_105826 (resized).jpg

#1636 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This sounds like you do not have the Cliffy's installed 100% correct. I have these in my TWD machine. It took me a while to get the fitment right and the ball should not be raised up. The best way I found to get them seated right, is put both side piece on, but not screwed tight and simply run the ball up and down the shooter lane until it pushed the cliffys away. This allows for the ball to be seated in the shooter lane property, meanwhile having the cliffys positioned as close to the ball as possible (without getting in the way of the ball = no raised ball).

Thanks for the advice Rager170. I'll try your procedure.

#1641 4 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Chuck, worked like a charm. Raised the switch....everything is good to go. Thanks so very much for your help bud!

No problem. Glad I could help.

#1642 4 years ago

In case anyone has not seen this. Todd @ TNT has a Ghostbusters critical fix tip video.
He says they have had one Ghostbusters blow out most of its boards due to this issue.

#1651 4 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

QUESTION?
I purchased the two shooter lane protector pieces (sold separately) from Pinball Life and afterwards I learned that Cliffy has a 3 piece set. Would you spend more money and buy the Cliffy set instead?
I should be getting my Premium mid December per my distributor.

If PBL sold you cliffy parts, then ask Cliff to sell you the missing part.

#1662 4 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

Ran through a test of my switches today and found my outlane switch wasn't registering. Checked the switch and found the solder joint on the roll-over switch has separated. What is the best method to re-solder this properly? I haven't soldered in year and am quite nervous about this fix.
Also I checkout all the solder points on the switches and the seem like the wires are not fished through the holes of the switch posts. Is this normal practice with these machines?
Here is a picture if what I mean. It looks like the wire was just placed on the side of the post and then soldered on. Even the ones in the background do not look like they were fished through either.

I've noticed Stern assemblers do this on pretty much all the solder joints on my GB machine. I'm sure its faster for them.

You really do want to solder it. If you have soldered before you will be fine.
(Options)
* Close with a dab of flux paste - heat it back up with your iron
* Add some fresh flux core solder - heat it back up with your iron

#1663 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Removable vinyl or removable mylar is a low tack adhesive...like twice as strong as a post it note.
It stays in place, put peels off reasonably clean. I find it stickier than cling, which has moved on me.
I love cliffy products to cover or fix wear, but for me, when Ive removed a few years later on a NIB scoop, it leaves the indent, or
"lip end" marks.
So pretty much once on, it stays on.
Ive since changed in some cases to this method.
I dont believe my method is best, on games that get a heavy, amount of play.
Cliffys still rule!

Art, could you please post a link (amazon) this product you like to use ?
There are tons of options, but not sure what best suits pinball needs.

#1676 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

After I posted, I figured Id get in trouble....I didnt buy any, it was a gift from a Pinhead local, who
works at Disney Imagineering, and they were tossing it. If it helps, Its tackiness is not Cling, so avoid cling. The verbage to search would be "removable".

Thanks Art,
Keys words Clear Repositionable removable Adhesive.
I found some I think will work. I will test & take pictures nest week.

#1694 4 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Where are the switches located?

Bottom right is the out-hole. There are 2 for drop targets and I think you have one "squeezey" for the outlane switch.

#1699 4 years ago

Maybe Little Shop of games can chime in here. In the photo, you will notice this wont work from the Premium LE since the ball drop looks like it will hit the protector. (unless this is an optical illusion), but since the bigger one offers both options, it only makes sense that there's a need for both.
littleshopofgames (resized).jpg
compare prot (resized).jpg
The LittleShop site only offers one version.
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/ghostbuters-extended-sling-protectors/

But on the big one with drain-post, they offer both PRO & Premium-LE
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/ghostbusters-extended-sling-protector-with-center-post/

#1716 4 years ago

Hey everyone,
I put together this simple slideshow-video to help new owners install the Ghostbusters cliffy shooter lane protector (bottom-right).
The video tries to hit the important points such as clamping and alignment. I hope this it helpful to new users.

#1717 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Im staying put at 1.05 for now .

I'm standing here with 1.11 on a flash drive undecided if I should leap from 1.05 to 1.11. I would like to update but it sounds like most are not happy with the updates.

#1729 4 years ago
Quoted from mcfly:

got a couple of problems that I can't seem to fix. First the left scoop sometimes won't award the shot with extra ball or whatever, but it seems to know its in there and still kick it out? secondly I can't seem to find out how to fix my slimmer on my premium as it just registers without being hit, it never used to but now it's overly sensitive. I have made no changes to anything and have been running 1.10 for ages and these errors have only just surfaced. Any help appreciated I have checked the switch in the scoop and it appears to be ok, should I raise it up a bit higher maybe.

I had your slimer problem.
I re-adjusted the plates in slimer hanger and now he works great every time.
Loosen nuts, slide forward or back to get the steel-cable away from the edge-ring.
The idea is it cannot make contact while coming down.
Notes:
I have a Premium 1.05
(1.10 was supposed to suppress slimer hits while coming down)
(1.11 added a software adjustment for slimer)

#1732 4 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's strange mine is adjusted tight against the front of the ring and come off the ring when you hit slimer and it works perfectly.

Yes, This is how mine was too. You need to loosen the nuts and adjust.
I adjusted and tested mine loosening the set-screw and rotating slimer while the switch test is running.
Slimer should not register until he's been hit with a clean shot and should not register the switch when moving to the playfield.

#1738 4 years ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

There used to be a guy on here that something similar I would use for the shooter lane but he fell ill. Anyway please report back on your findings. I am interested.

Please see the video below -- "removable clear mylar/vinyl".
This product is designed to stick but can be easily removed
without damaging the surface and without leaving any residue or adhesive behind.

#1761 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Thanks for sharing, Chuck!
Another great tool I use with this, and in shop jobs are Plastic Razor blades.
They help lift the Mylar for replacing.

Thanks Art, They are already on order. Gotta love Amazon Prime

#1763 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So Chuck,
Where did you get that stuff ?

Amazon.
amazon.com link »

#1798 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

brand new replacement playfield

** Notice the left scoop as an updated plastic extending over it. The tab is all green and not white.

#1802 4 years ago

Does anyone know how the Diagnostic for Node boards is supposed to be used? I don't have an issue but I've checked this diagnostic a few times scratching my head as to what good it is. You can go in and click through the node boards but there is no test I can see.
There is a little box on most of the boards within the DIAG screen, but its not clear what it means. If anyone has used this screen when they had a bad node board , how did this screen differ from normal?

#1806 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

There is a little box on most of the boards within the DIAG screen, but its not clear what it means.

The little box on each node diagnostic screen is the dip switches on the node board.
It appears the diagnostic screen for nodes is not interactive.

node 0 & 1 have no dips
CPU node (Node 0) (dips NA)
Cabinet node (Node 1) (dips NA)

Nodes 8-15
------1 2 3 4-------
08 OFF OFF OFF OFF
09 OFF OFF ON OFF
10 OFF ON OFF OFF
11 OFF ON ON OFF
12 ON OFF OFF OFF
13 ON OFF ON OFF
14 ON ON OFF OFF
15 ON ON ON OFF

#1822 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Hey everyone,
I put together this simple slideshow-video to help new owners install the Ghostbusters cliffy shooter lane protector (bottom-right).
The video tries to hit the important points such as clamping and alignment. I hope this it helpful to new users.
» YouTube video

shooter-cliffys (resized).jpg

About the LEFT side Shooter Lane cliffy...

* Remove the auto launcher
* Remove the bolts. (tap up & out with a mallet).
* Install the Cliffy - align to the holes and bolts
* Reinstall the auto-launch
* Be careful not to over tighten as it will bend the cliffy.
* Tighten until it starts to bend and then back off.

#1829 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Air Ball Protector update.
As Stern is now using a new playfield, and Premiums are flying out,
I am hearing, as are others of a few games, that airballs may still occur on the 2X.
A couple people have sent in pictures, and in some cases the photo and coverage matches my game,
but this table, is still producing some airballs.
On the opposite side, are a pile of emails saying it works fine.
From all my communication, its somewhere between 3%-8% of games, are assembled differently enough
where the plastic is not stopping the 2x.
Obviously, it would be nice if there was 100% consistency in a Stern assembly, but this is not needed from their perspective.
On the side of offering a flat piece of plastic, I can offer help with suggestions how to gain a few mm, or lose a few, raise slimers boom, or repeat back what others have discovered...either bending the target forward, or shimming, as well as Additional sticky foam behind, to help, deflect and absorb.
What I know cant happen, is I have no way of knowing what game you have, nor how this will perform.
Some people may get a game where this will only help 65%-75%.
I cant make another, without finding one of these deviate games, getting it my house for a week, test protos, and start the process all over. Even if the game aspect happened, Ill be honest, I tried to get this to everyone
at the lowest price, and I simply dont have 30 plus hours to make one, that fixes the exception, and possibly raise closer to 100%.
With this in mind, mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, perhaps others, Ill speak for them by saying we cant guarantee
our flat plastic, will fix Sterns mistake 100%....and any vendor depending on their numbers might see a
slightly different variance.
For me, I can only try to offer the best, fastest, and cheapest, but cant guarantee 100%.
If you feel you need a 100% guarantee, please chat with everyone you need to.
I will gladly refund your money with a return, if you are not happy, but I must stop an email
that comes in saying I must pay for return shipping...(its shipped free to you), or refund 100%
without a return. I have only this one item, and am not in business with many other products
or higher prices, to build in free shipping out, and free return shipping.
Im so sorry to those who expect this. I too would truly love if Walmart paid for my return shipping or gas.
Should someone find 100% perfection, please share...but so far, 90% + at this time is the best I can get.
Art

Art, I appreciate you creating this product & I love mine. Mine works perfectly.
Not only will I keep mine I have no hesitation of buying another if it ever breaks.
The quality in appearance and performance is better than anything I could ever create.

#1830 4 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Looks great! Also a good idea for new owners to turn the ball through power down to minimum. It comes from the factory on full throttle(255) and 180 seems more appropriate

Agreed. I finally updated to 1.11 with no issues and the 1st thing I did was turn the trough to shooter-lane power down to minimum.

#1833 4 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Chuck get some games on yours and report back in a few days. Considering doing the same.

I updated to 1.11 Friday morning. About a dozen games so far no issues and I'm very glad I updated.
** I also adjusted my Scolari-Brothers springs on Friday and now those bad-boys drop with every hit . I should have done that sooner.
To adjust the drop targets:
* Raise the playfield "all the way up"
* Unhook the spring and attach 10-12 coils up.
* Super easy once you get the playfield up.


scolari-spring (resized).jpg

#1835 4 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

My scolaries worked perfect from the factory maybe new springs ??
I did have an issue where one would not mechanically unlatch had to loosen the bracket that does that .

That's interesting. My Scolaries have always had drop issues. I was surprised if they went down. Build date Sept. 22.

2 days now and its been working great.

#1852 4 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I'm getting these 3 switch messages on a new GB Prem. Running 1.11. The switch at the top of the left ramp tests out fine. Anyone know what this is or have suggestions on other things I can test?

If you look at the manual there is not even a switch in the 90's.
It's a bug but does not effect game play. But I wish it was fixed. No value in tech alert if it does not work.

#1855 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Have many people have tried the spring coil adjustment to improve the scoleri bros dropping? It seems that it's a nice easy fix I'm just wondering if long term it could cause the target or shelf to snap/break? If you did it, how many loops did you move up? I'm thinking 10 rings is a good start - did it make a big difference if you tried it? I'd say hard shots are about a 65% rejection currently.

I was getting maybe 80% rejects on hard hits. but side or glancing or light taps worked fine.
I adjusted by about 10 coils each and now after several days = 0 rejects and I've hit them hard dead center with no fails yet.
Its really nice to have them working. I used to dread the Scolari brothers popping up, but no longer.

#1886 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

Could you please post of picture of this . I'm not able to visualize what you did?

#1926 3 years ago
Quoted from lschmidlin:

Hi guys - I just set up my GB premium last night and it keeps firing two balls into the shooter lane. I let one drain and the remaining ball will play just fine. Happens maybe once every 12-15 launches. Any thoughts?

If you keep getting 2 balls in the shooter lane, adjust your switch in the shooter lane. It's easy. Loosen the switch screws, move up, lock down. Test in switch test with a ball to verify it closes before the ball settles.

#1944 3 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Mine will do it not in ball search mode too.

One time I was working the machine, forgot to the balls in and slimer swung left and kept turning left.
Powered off, put the balls back and never saw it again after that.

Not sure what is happening under the playfield when Slimer keeps trying to go one direction past maximum. You would think there would be limit switches or the assembly is some how able to allow for this behavior without damage. I know in Slimer alignment, he can keep turning at max-left or max-right as well.

#1946 3 years ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

Do you know the number for the adjustment in settings I couldn't seem to find it. Thanks, Mike

Which adjustment are you looking for ? and is it Pro or Prem/LE ?

#1948 3 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

I think he is looking for shooter eject power ... and I don't know the number but it's in GB specific adjustments as I recall?

This is where you control the power entering the shooter lane. There is no setting for the shooter power that I'm aware of.
1480912032169646213766 (resized).jpg

#1952 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Can you tell me what issues you have read using the PBL replacements?

Popular reported issue with the PBL springs is machine-gunning. The targets can't get up so they try over and over sounding like a machine gun. I bought the PBL springs, but after reading about the behavior, I decided to adjust the stock spring 1st and that worked fine for me.

#1956 3 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

I have pbl springs on a pro and a le no machine gun works perfectly

I'm glad to hear it ! I have the springs I might try them. There were lots of people with issues so I played it safe for fear of breaking the lip off of a drop target.

#1985 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

When you hit the left ramp on GB though, are people getting that many air balls for real?

You want to install an airball protector day-one. Its not "super frequent", but its quite upsetting to see the ball fly up and hit the glass.

** Even with the airball protector you will still have airballs on rare occasion.
** Without the airball protector you will see at least one the 1st day of playing.
** The real problems are the 2X, 3X and the Ghost-Target. If you hit those hard, you can see an airball.
** Hitting the ramp is not the problem, missing the ramp is the problem.

** One time, I hit the Ghost-Target, the ball flew up and landed in the right ramp habitrail.
Other times, I've had it fly all the way back to the shooter lane.

#2018 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I know , maybe there is a smaller not so bulky one way gate ?
I'll keep fiddling with it ,
It's really frustrating to see the ball come back down the orbit shot

I wonder if this an alignment issue or a revision issue. I'm not sure if mine has ever done that.
I recorded about 20 balls and did not see it.
I also included the right orbit since I've heard comments about that as well. 1080P/60fps slowed to 1/8 speed.

#2020 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Damn, chuck. Those shots look so smooth. Is the right "orbit" ever supposed to feed into pops or should it always make full loop? Great video. Thanks for posting.

Depends on if its a full plunger pull or partial. I will often do a partial plunge pull to drop the ball into the PKE.
Sometimes a do a soft plunge to drop the ball down through ecto-goggles & catch the ball with the right flipper which should not register anything. If done right, and you drop the ball while trying to catch it on your right flipper, you get the ball back in the shooter lane with no loss of ball count.

But a full plunge on your 1st ball should do a full orbit.

Now later in the game the left side gate (right after PKE) can be closed and then the ball is forced to drop into the City-Pops.

#2021 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Damn, chuck. Those shots look so smooth. Is the right "orbit" ever supposed to feed into pops or should it always make full loop? Great video. Thanks for posting.

If you are not getting the full orbit on your 1st ball , I suggest checking the rollover switch right behind StayPuft.
Also when you send the shot up the ecto goggles I assume you should get a full orbit.

Watch this even slower video . I think that roll-over switch tells the gate to open after PKE. (it could also be the wireframe) (Opto?) right after the switch. -- The more I watch the video , the more I think its the opto in the metal frame (opto) triggering the gate after PKE.

#2024 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

If you are not getting the full orbit on your 1st ball , I suggest checking the rollover switch right behind StayPuft.
Also when you send the shot up the ecto goggles I assume you should get a full orbit.
Watch this even slower video . I think that roll-over switch tells the gate to open after PKE. (it could also be the wireframe) (Opto?) right after the switch. -- The more I watch the video , the more I think its the opto in the metal frame (opto) triggering the gate after PKE.
» YouTube video

Ok since I kind of started this I felt I had to research it deeper.
The rollover switch behind Staypuft is called Right Orbit and I verified that switch opens the gate (assuming Sterns chooses that to happen in the code). The metal bracket after the roll-over switch does not appear to be any type of switch. My guess is the purpose of the metal frame after the right orbit rollover switch is to keep the ball grounded.
** Video shows the right orbit roll over switch manually activated& opening the upper-left-gate so you can complete a right orbit .

#2027 3 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

How hard would it be to make new higher wire forms for the outlanes to prevent the ball from bouncing out? I dont know how they are installed into the playfields, but maybe tap the old ones out and new ones in? Unless it would damage the playfield.

The outlane rails are pressed in. If you have the means & desire, they could be tapped out, re-created and replaced with higher profile version.

I'm about to try Modfather's outlane guard. There are several of these out there, but I felt like Modfathers has a nice look to it.
They are quite thick so if they fit well, they should do the job and look nice at the same time. I also like that its completely reversible in about one minute. Other option would be Little Shop of Games.
2016-12-13 20.10.03 (resized).jpg

#2036 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Can someone please tell me what size washers are used to lift Slimer up?

edit: I think you are referring to oldpinbuy's post about sliding the slimer arm up a bit and tightening the "set screw" aka grub screw.
No washers needed and in my opinion preferred to leave washers out. The set screw locks it down tight and wont move.
========================
Where are you putting the washers ?
and
is it a premium or pro?.

I've got washers and could check on a premium.

#2057 3 years ago

This video is the same shot repeated for your review.

I've been monitoring the shooter lane to orbit with a camera.
I think this may be happening to some people.
It only happened to me once or twice. The ball reaches the left gate but glances off the left edge > ricochet into the right edge > follows through roughly.

Suggestions:
** Reduce the incline of your playfield if its extra steep.
** Next time waxing your playfield... Wax this area and the metal walls with extra attention.
** I'm still using the original shooter spring. I did not switch the orange out for a green and I get like 99% clean orbits.

orbitfail (resized).jpg

#2060 3 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Is the gate supposed to be open when a new ball starts? On mine if I shoot too hard it goes right through the gate.

The left gate should open as you hit the right orbit switch. So a full plunge will send the ball all the way around.

#2071 3 years ago
Quoted from Boondocker:

Got our Pro yesterday, can't believe how loud the fan is!

This is a pretty common complaint. In a quiet home, you can hear the fan, especially in attract mode when there is zero sound.
Check out this video about a fan-mod.

#2074 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

anyone had slimer not move down on premium? had it a couple of times now - activate slimer, drain, slimer swings back, new ball, slimer music and DMD mode but slimer not moving from his home position? original code.

This happened to me in 1.05 and before adjusting slimer. Slimer takes all of his hits on the way down so he's done.

code 1.10 added a suppression of slimer hits while moving down or up. You can also adjust the slimer switch, but if you plan to update the code do that 1st. I say this because I had to re-adjust slimer again after updating code.

#2117 3 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

HELP!
Got my Premium yesterday and besides the crazy random and consistent air balls I am having issues with the ball not making it out of the subway tunnel. I remember others mentioning this but can't seem to find the fix for it. Any help would be appreciated.
FYI, I have the bubble sitting in the middle of the level but it is right on the bottom line. The game is so fast I was hoping that would slow it down a bit.
Thank you!

Most times the trouble exiting the subway is an alignment problem of the subway under the playfield.
Lift the playfield , loosen the screws where the pieces comes together and align them better (center).
I know its been covered on pinside somewhere....

#2135 3 years ago
Quoted from glasairpilot:

Broke my ecto googles LCD screen today with an air ball. Game Room Guys was nice enough to send me a side protector for it, but it did not help. Had an air ball off the left flipper and it was a direct hit on the screen. Anyone make a protector for airballs that do not originate from the left side of the play field?

Order this item.
http://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p102/Ghostbusters_Ecto_Goggle_protector.html

Call Stern tech support to see if they will send you a new one. Take photo before you call. They will ask to see it.

#2138 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Really weird....you may be the 7th or 8th person to mention this need.
Personally, I have never had this happen.
I fail to understand why.
Unless there is a need for hundreds, you might have to craft one yourself.
Or find something existing for another game, and see if you can adapt it.

I've had maybe 3 balls hit the glass over 3 months (which is pretty upsetting when it happens) where the ball hits X2 target which has only a small amount of airball plastic over-hang.
X3 never does it. I've noticed the airballs are less violent when you increase the pitch to 7+ degrees, but then I also find the ramps more difficult to make. Currently the bubble is centered and I make ramps easily with only a few airballs. But I hitting the glass is terrible feeling.

#2163 3 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

Anyone run into the Librarian scoop coil becoming underpowered? I have a GB Pro on 1.10 and when my coil pops to put the ball back in play, it barely makes it to the flipper. Center drains half the time now.
I tried adjusting the strength in the menu but it doesn't matter if it's on max 64 or 30... same result.

I set it to 20. The ball drops to the left flipper which is nice for right hand shots.

#2172 3 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

Rob_G chucksmith Arcade trekkie1978 Check your plastics by the strobe... here is a video I made of what happened with mine: » YouTube video
Basically the plastic next to the strobe somehow cracked already (HUO, 4 weeks of use)... if I put slight pressure where the crack is with my finger and test a ball, it makes it to the right flipper. If I don't put my finger there, straight down the drain.
I have talked to Chris at Cointaker and he is going to talk to Stern about it. It's kinda bonkers so many of us have the same issue so I'd check that spot and verify if yours are cracked as well.
Thanks for the idea of setting the power to ~20 to drop it to the left flipper so I can still play while waiting for this to be remedied.

Mine is cracked. It cracked early on. I found it and called Stern and they sent me a new plastic. I have not installed it yet, but I don't see how a plastic can impact the ball feed unless you are changing the angle of the metal scoop. ** Mine also does not have the extended plastic over the scoop. That was added later. Earlier plastics were stubby so it does not flex on the curved part of the scoop.
This spot in the plastic is so thin, I can see how it would crack easily.
2016-11-14 15.43.38 (resized).jpg

#2174 3 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

chucksmith Does your scoop have as much play as mine does in the video? Or is yours tighter?

No.... As I recall it was rock solid. Almost looks like your screws are loose under the playfield. If mine was loose I would have checked the mounting screws/nuts. Makes me wonder if we could loosen , rotate it slightly (counter clockwise) toward the right flipper and lock it down.

#2177 3 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

I've looked under the PF around the scoop and the screws seem fine. I don't even see how I can tighten them if I wanted to since it seems the top of the screw must be on top of the PF under the plastics.

mmm... That metal kickout has to be tied down somehow. If you remove the plastic with the crack in it, can see any mounting then?
I would really expect to see bolts & nuts from the underside.
I had mine off a few weeks ago, but was not looking for this so sorry cant help with that. Also note: I do have a Premium,but this scoop "looks"to be the same on all models. ..,I think I need to lift the PF to see how its mounted.

#2181 3 years ago

I've never had an airball fly off the ramp. It really sounds like the game was not leveled.
Using the Stern bubble level as a common frame of reference we all have.
High bubble for me made the ramp a hard shot. Low Center bubble made more target air balls, but ramp was easier.
Middle bubble actually works the best for me.
But I played for a long time with the bubble high-center.
Remember to level PF left to right . Use a common level that fits on the playfield not the glass. use the artwork as a line reference.
Of course turn down coil-power.

#2187 3 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

Can someone direct me to where I can get rubber post sleeves. I refuse to pay the $8.30 shipping on Pinball Life for an $0.80 sleeve. I want to cut it down and install them on the out lanes like others have. Thank you!

https://www.titanpinball.com
This is probably the best you can hope for on shipping . I received a complete set of rings for ghostbusters + more parts, $4 shipping

#2188 3 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

My plastic was like this brand new out of the box with my mid November Prem build. I have at least 1/4" of space between and plastic. Does your scoop have a rib welded on the back underneath the plastic to keep it from bending up?

As I recall yes. I should have taken photos of it when it was off.

#2191 3 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

Thank you Chuck! Do you know if that would be the standard size post sleeve? My guess would be yes.

Not sure. I see Titan has "stern post sleeve so I would ordered that. I would probably order 2 of each sleeve since the parts would only be a couple of bucks.

#2192 3 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

Newb question, how do you adjust flipper power in GB? I don't see anything obvious in the settings

STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS
43 COIL PULSE POWER = (normal or soft)

TIP:
If you are looking for a setting
Open the link below, run a search on a key word. PDF's are searchable.
All adjustments are listed in the manual.
Granted new adjustments may not be there and old ones removed wont be there.

http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/ghostbusters/le/Ghostbusters_LE_web.pdf

#2195 3 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Check your spot lights. Guaranteed that's where it's coming from. The plastic chrome on my right one flaked off slightly.

Then buy Mezel Mods spotlight covers to pretty up the chipped flaked spot lights or get some new spot light covers from pinball life.
https://mezelmods.com/collections/ghostbusters-pinball-mods
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=295

#2200 3 years ago
Quoted from dawasa:

Does slimer ever touch playfield? This is a premium from Mid November.

Slimer's bottom should not touch anything. If it is then it needs to be adjusted.
As an illustration, imagine the ball trying to pass under slimer. The ball can pass under slimer but it has to move slimer a lot to it.
If you have control over it, I would make slimer's bottom 1/2 ball height off the playfield.

#2215 3 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Premium coming and a quick update requested for the slimer butt drag issue.
I saw a few solutions offered here but believe it was early on w/ the first mech.
Have newer owners found an adjustment needed?
What seems to be the latest consensus for a fix?
Thanks guys!

My Slimer does not drag at all. Wait and see.

#2248 3 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I have seen modes where only one is up and they alternate. The exact second one goes down the other comes up. Not saying that is your issue but thought I'd point it out. Does anyone know what triggers this behavior versus having both up and being able to knock both down?

I've seen the same thing after moving away from 1.05. One thing to note is the light for the down scolari is also out. It seems to be intentional. Any time you hear "the scolari bros need to be fried", you should see both brothers up. If you see only one Bro. up, check the light for that brother. If the light is on and the brother is down something is amiss with the switch.

#2269 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Not,Mine!!! new build,12-29-16,Slimer drags his ass! Stern rep says he's supposed to drag some to emulate slimming!!

Slimer dragging his butt seems like an adjustment issue.
Some slimers drag while others not from mixed time frames. (Mine never dragged with a late Sept. build-date.)
The Premium arm is at an angle. If the mount under the playfield was leveled , shimmed or adjusted, this should affect the swing & clearance.
(DON'T try to bend any part of the arm-assy. Someone tried that & its bad)
The washer trick under the slimer arm is also a common thing I see people doing, but you can just loosen the set screw in the slimer arm, slide the arm up slightly, lock it down and it wont move.

2 weeks later
#2369 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I'm about to place an order from Pinball Life. Has anyone installed this captive ball wireform support?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4378
Is it necessary?

Newer playfields do not need this part. Stern added it's own part. If your playfield is missing the stern support plate call chas at tech support to get a free one.

#2380 3 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

How much does it distort the image?

0% distortion. I was worried about the same thing. If you were to nitpick, there is a slim stripe of glare sometimes, on the curve, But to be honest I forget the protector is even there. I don't notice it

#2381 3 years ago

--deleted--

2 weeks later
#2460 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

NO,there was a pin in the connector to the topper,that was bent!!! Took 2 hours to find,thank you for your response!!!

I'd like to hear more. Which pin ? , which connector caused this? Any pics would be great.
Thanks.

#2463 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Pat:

I've been looking at a pile of sites, who has the best bang for your buck Outlane plastics to stop the ball from hopping over? For a PRO. Thanks guys

OldPinGuy's outlane plastic is a great choice. I love mine.

#2468 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

One of my screws on that plate will not come out, though it turns easily (also will not tighten if turned clockwise). Maybe bad threading? I tried simply pulling on the plate gently but no dice. Any ideas? I'd like to install the protector...

Did you try lightly pulling on the plate while unscrewing? Yes, it sounds like the thread is stripped in one spot. The goal is to get the remaining thread to catch. There must be some or it just come right off.

#2470 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveMan:

So to install the plastic ecto protector you have to first remove Stern's "fix"? And leave it off? I bought the plastic protector but haven't gotten to it yet.

I removed the Stern Fix and then installed the Ecto-Bubble with no issues.
I did re-align my mirror to make sure its 100% under the bubble.
I do wonder why the creator did not just use the 3 screw holes on the left side instead of wrapping around back with a metal bracket.
I would have also counter-sunk the screw holes.
Its possible this was done to reduce the possibility of alignment issues.
The current design is pretty flexible if there were any variation in hole alignment.
ectobubble2 (resized).jpg

#2474 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Has people been getting their mirrors broken a lot or something?

The whole ecto-goggle assy is expensive and very breakable. I've only see a few reports of broken ones, but seriously, why risk it?
There are 2 parts that can be damaged, the bubble solves both worries in one fix. Frankly I don't think the Stern solution is a very good one. It only protects against a side strike any other flying ball could take out the mirror and/or LCD.

#2481 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

All fixed!!!
I trimmed the edge of the decal with an Exacto knife, touched up the paint, and sealed off the entire corner with a strip of mylar. It came out great and should protect the decal nicely.

Great Job! It looks very nice now.
Everyone with a non-wrapping cabinet art should consider doing this before it gets tattered.

#2482 3 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Which cling/Mylar did you guys end up buying ?

I use a removable mylar (not cling) from amazon. The roll is huge but it works great.

#2493 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I used the exact stuff that chucksmith recommended to fix the issue with my decals. I also installed some on the playfield to protect the area around both drop targets. This is the first time I've used this product, and it's awesome. I have no idea how well it will hold up over time, but it's very thin and very easy to work with. It's also almost completely invisible once installed.
Here's a link to it:
amazon.com link »
And he wasn't kidding when he said it comes in a large roll. Holy smokes!!! When the box arrived, I had no idea what was in it. I didn't remember ordering anything that would come in such a large oblong package. I guess I now have a lifetime supply!

Yup Yup. This is the right link. Thanks for posting that.
amazon.com link »

#2494 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

just my experience, I had a vinyl type insert protectors from a CFTBL set I bought a while back and cut up 2 to fit to the drop targets and one peeled over at a corner after a few days - probably an application issue from myself. So peeled off and cleaned up with Novus 1 to then plan to redo but noticed that where the front edge of the vinyl protector was left a residue that can't be removed with Novus 1 or has etched the clearcoat.
I don't know what has happened but removed the other one as well and has the same issue.

Referring to the product from Amazon, I put some on as a test left it for a while ( about an hour) and pealed it off with no residue at all. Can't say what happens after 1 year but from my experience its great stuff. Sticks great, comes off .

#2502 3 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

+1 about inserts, same state here, not a prob
btw, i should have missed something, did they corrected (or not seeing pics) the REINFORCEMENT error on pro version !?

I noticed that too. The spelling was corrected (supposedly) on the Pro. My Premium has the right spelling (Late Sept 2016 playfield)
John's Arcade got a pro where he expected the spelling to be fixed but was not so I'm not sure if any pro's have the correct spelling.
In any event the spelling is not a big deal. No ghosting? then your good to go.

1 week later
#2520 3 years ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Thanks for the report! I guess I'm glad that I have not got mine yet then.

From what I've read, chipping in the pro's right eject saucer happens to a lot of people.
Looking at that pro-right-saucer ... it looks like a high risk site for chipping.
If I had a pro, I'd put some Mylar in and around that saucer before the 1st play.
I'd also put a cliffy drain hole protector & shooter lane protector on all machines.

#2546 3 years ago

For anyone who's seen the ball shoot through the right ramp only to hit the playfield with enough spin to send it up, out, over to the left drain... This was happening to me about 50% of the time.

This past weekend, I made a tiny tweak that made the world of difference.
Now the ball drops and flows down the lane intended with no spinning out.
As a side note: I used my removable mylar to protect the drop zone.
Stern has Mylar there but its a bit high and not centered well under the drop zone.
right ramp adjustment (resized).png
ball drop mylar (resized).jpg

#2577 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Premium owner here.
1.) Probably 95% of my shots to the PKE (right) ramp make the 180 degree bend, stop, and come back down. What am I missing here? I'm not seeing anything obvious. I can make this shot all day on a Pro (yeh I know the shape is different), but I know it's not me missing the ramp or hitting it weakly. Any ideas on a fix?

Pinball-life sells hex posts. Under the ramp hear the turn is a screw.
Remove the screw.
Remove the ramp
Remove the 2 inch hex post
Replace with 1-5/8" (or 1-3/4") hex post.
Consider the cost of the posts and the shipping, I suggest ordering both versions and then use the one you like best.

1 week later
#2583 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I am having issues with a weak right flipper. It's only weak about 30% of the flips. Just started happening around game 100.
What can I do to resolve this?
Thanks.

Start by checking the gap and cleaning your eos switch. When the flipper is up the eos switch must be pressed and making good contact.

#2616 3 years ago

For those who want to tame the shaker, this image shows a great way to do it.
adjust shaker motor (resized).jpg

#2637 3 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

Guys are there anymore slimer fixes for it the first gen mech? I did move the wire to the center and it helped for a while but doesn't appear to mattter at this point. Did stern ever replace first gen mechs with the newer design?

Yes, Slimer mech was updated.
Call your distributor to get the updated mech.
You will need to send the old one back to Stern to avoid being charged for a new slimer .
The new mech works great and can be mechanically adjusted for sensitivity if needed.
The new mech is a NC (normally closed) switch. A hit will open the switch telling the machine Slimer was hit.
I've noticed each new revision of the software appears to update how long the switch needs to be open to be a hit so I have opted to readjust slimer after each software update. But the new slimer mech is the way to go.
You can watch a video of John's arcade install his new Slimer.

#2643 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Any help for the 2 balls launched to the shooter lane would be much appreciated! Thanks!

That happened to me a long time ago. The ball was not making the shooter lane switch consistently and fast enough. I physically adjusted the switch up and the problem was gone. Prior to that adjustment I was getting 2 balls a lot as if the machine had no idea the ball was in the shooter lane.
The switch is held in place with 1/8" nut driver head screws. The screw heads are really small so you may have to use a needle nose to loosen/tighten.

#2648 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Chuck what are your thoughts about the switch not registering when you shoot the ball really fast through the ecto goggles? I hate not getting credit for that shot. Mine fails fairly often on a good hard and fast shot up thru there.

I have not had that issue but I know there are 2 switches. The 1st is an optical sensor. This busts the ghost
After is a physical switch. If mine did not register consistently in would test in the menus then I would adjust it so the switch makes contact before the ball is fully pressing the switch-lever to its maximum down (ball directly over switch). Just be careful not to make the switch too high which could block or slow the ball.

#2662 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Hey Chuck
Is the 2nd switch you are speaking of the same one that starts the wbtd mode.
If so I have the same issue with it not registering on hard fast shots but on the other hand wbtd mode will start often / all the time / when plugging and I don't want it to when plugging to the top lanes ??? Suggestions? Code issue ?

The 2nd switch is behind staypuft. #55 . (The 1st switch is #59.)
switches (resized).png

#2672 3 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

On your machine with the washer under the mechanism arm is Slimer low enough that the ball will hit him in all of the stopping positions? I tried the washer idea on my machine and found that Slimer was too high on the far left position. The ball would roll under him without making contact.

See other post where I coined the new unit of measure "half ball height" .
1 "half ball height" gap under slimer.

#2675 3 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Installed the shorter 1 5/8 inch hex spacer on my right ramp tonight. I had to smile after my first shot ran up the right ramp and smoothly made the turn. I figured we had it. However, the more I played, the more I had shots roll back down, just like it used to. It still seems better than before, but I'd like to get it perfect. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

Hit the ball harder.
I don't think you can safely lower the ramp any more than 1-5/8. As a side note: I'm using 1-3/4 and it works good.
One thing you can do is.. check the level (left-right) of your machine. If it favors the left its going to add to the uphill climb on the right ramp. You could slightly favor the right (bubble close the right line) that small difference could help especially if you are already favoring the left.

#2679 3 years ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

Good stuff. Appreciate that. Is the hex post that comes with the game 1 3/4? Also, I noticed there is some give to the plastic ramp itself. Simply put, I'm going to monkey around with it more tonight and possibly see if there is a way to have the ramp as steep as possible right away, while the shot ball has its most energy. I am pretty vigilant on having my machines perfectly level, but I'll check that as well.

The factory post is 2 inches.
I bought a 1-5/8 and a 1-3/4. I started with the 1-3/4 and its been good.

One thing about too short... the ball may pick up so much speed that it gets spin on it & when it exists the ramp , it causes the ball to flip out and down the far left drain.

I had a 1-1/2 inch post with a spacer (about 1-5/8) and it always spun the ball to the left drain.
AftermMoving to the 1-3/4 post , its 100% resolved .
** full disclosure- I also bent the output of the right ramp a smidge toward the bottom so it dropped in deeper.
I'm not sure which of the 2 changes fixed the issue or a combo of both but it sure works great now.

#2681 3 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

I'm not sure if this is a software or hardware issue... every once in awhile, right after I launch the ball, the skill shot gets awarded when the ball hits the right orbit switch (I think). All switches seem to be fine ... optos working. Anyone else experience this?

Yes, I had this happen . After I installed my shooter lane cliffy, it did it every time.
Cause: The cliffy held the ball up from the switch in the shooter lane which really confused the machine.
Check your shooter lane switch carefully with a ball in switch test. The switch should trigger 'before' the ball comes to rest.
If you added a cliffy shooter lane protector you really need to check the switch.

#2684 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Q1: I am trying to fix the storage issue. Is it correct that when a ball goes into storage and gets launched back on to the game from the hole that at the same time a new ball is launched to the shooter lane - so that there will be two balls in the game then? If not - where lies the problem?

Sorry, No. It should not do that. The ball will in some cases shoot through the subway and back to the playfield. Ernie will typically say something. But the fact that you have 2 balls suggests that the machine thinks it kept the ball ( Q: Did the screen say Ball Locked?" )
If it said ball locked and shot though, the machine thinks it still has the ball in storage. If it does not say ball locked, and adds a 2nd ball, I would check the switches throughout the subway carefully along with the diverter.

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Just got my gble replacement playfield. Right orbit does not register when made cleanly. Tried to adjust it 5 times and still no luck. Any suggestions?

atariaction What did you adjust? Did you test & adjust the switch #55 behind staypuft? The switch should make before its fully pressed.
switches (resized).png

#2732 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

my game has been working really well and then after about 450 games the left scoop just sudden snapped the spot welds - I removed and on inspection noticed the spot welds aren't penetrating and bonding well through both pieces = weld intensity not correct or spot welded time frame too short. So I dare say this will occur to others in time.
bracket drops down

then lifted up

to remove - remove the plastic which will then expose 2 x 5/64 allen headed bolts and remove those first

lift the playfield up and remove the hex head wood screw so the assembly can drop out

the broken spot welds

will look to see if I can drill and tap and report back unless someone else can recommend another solution. I could get a work mate to SS weld but then would have to wait until Tuesday next week......

Solution ... call stern tech support line . They hopefully will send you a new one. Metal parts should not fail the 1st year. Be prepared to send a picture

#2741 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so...out of nowhere my machine is not remembering settings after I turn it off. Any suggestions? I haven't changed the battery yet but the machine is only 6 months old. Could that be it?

There very 1st thing I would do is change the battery.
If that does not fix it, you really need to call Stern's number under the lockdown bar.
I bet its the battery. I know its not old but it could be faulty.

#2743 3 years ago
Quoted from packards34:

With all the issues with ghostbusters would anyone recommend buying a NIB ghostbusters machine? Or buy something else?

In my opinion there are not a lot of issues, just a lot of talk & help repeating on the same issues. The fact that we have a ghostbusters issues thread scares new buyers. Personally , I think every new game should have this same thread. There are issues with Batman66, they just don't have this thread to help people deal with the issues.

By the way, If you a new Ghostbusters buyer/owner and are freaked out about the GB airballs, please note that Ghostbusters is not the only game that has airballs. Click this video with time code and watch for 30 seconds.

Also keep in mind: Many of the GB issues have been resolved by Stern so a new GB produced today comes with fixes so some "issues" are moot to a new buyer.
Examples:
Playfield issues: Resolved. Stern's current playfields are good. No ghosting inserts reported in a long while on current production units.
Bending right captive ball guide: Stern fixed this. Your new machine comes with a plate installed making it impossible for it to bend.
Shorting led under left captive ball-guide: Stern fixed this. Comes pre-installed on new machines.
Possible ball strike on ecto-goggle: Stern installs a fix on new machines but its lame so stop over at Hooked-on-pinball and get the Ecto-Bubble. .

I also want to say:
Ghostbusters was my 1st machine & its been a great experience.
I have learned so much about being a pinball owner since Sept-2016. I entered pinball with the understanding "a pinball machine is not a toaster" . I was fully aware there's always going to be maintenance, adjustments, mods, updates, and yes the occasional odd behavior. Overall I feel like ghostbusters was a great choice. Star Trek was a close 2nd choice which I still think about sometimes. But in my opinion Ghostbusters is a solid machine with a few things you should do that have all been figured out for you so you can buy a handful of update-items and do a handful of adjustments and you will have one of the best Stern machines in recent years.

I had been interested in buying a pinball machine ever since I saw Spida1a's unboxing review of Transformers-LE back in 2012.
I decided to check-out each new machine as they came out (including Jersey-Jack machines). That quest took me all the way up to "Ghostbusters" & I have no regrets. Our entire family and extended family plays our Ghostbusters(premium) nearly every day even after 6 months of being in the house.

What you should expect to do to your new Ghostbusters.
Order these items right away.
Premium Ecto-goggle bubble
Cliffy drain hole & shooter lane kit *
Art's Airball & Out-lane Kit

Adjustments:
Update to newest code 1.13 before doing any adjustments. *
Calibrate Slimer (may require manual adjustment of slimer-switch to get perfect) (Its not hard)
Check and Adjust switches to ensure reliable contact. *
Might need to adjust ball guide gate behind Staypuft. (I did not need to, but other's have.

Keep in mind, Some of these items you will have to do to any new pinball machine ( * indicates those items )

...And if you have a question, you have the world's best resource at your finger-tips.
Pinside is loaded with knowledgeable people with experience who are always willing to help.

The video that got me interested and excited about pinball... Thanks Chris!

ChuckSmith

#2746 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

No luck in reaching Stern customer service yet in the meantime can somebody take a close up picture of the battery in the back box so I can compare mine to one that's working thank you

Not sure how this will help but here ya go...
BATTERY-GB (resized).jpg

#2760 3 years ago
Quoted from artdirector:

Ghostbusters Premium: Locating Pinballs Screen Troubleshooting. I need help please. Stern has sent me new trough boards, a new Node 8 board, all which I have replaced and the game will not cycle out of this screen "Locating Pinballs" when I hit the start button. There are 6 balls in the trough - the trough test fires and cycles through balls like it should in the test mode. The switch test is registering all the out lanes. It tries to fire and locate the balls in a cycle. I have visually looked at all the wire connections and seen nothing wrong. I feel like this has to be some simple thing I am overlooking... help please, please, please.

Do all 6 trough lights on the actual board come on?
Does the trough sensor test show 6 balls in the trough?

#2766 3 years ago
Quoted from artdirector:

Yes and yes??? I reset the software now as well.
Where else should I be looking???
There is one red light on for the back trough board, I don't think there more lights avail on that one.

Your ball trough test should look like this...
ball trough test2.jpg

#2772 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ghost switch an opto switch under the ecto goggles? That works fine .
Are you referring to switch #55 , see pic, behind stay puft , is the ball supposed clear switch #55 on the plunge and not activate it ?

Chuckwurt is talking about the yellow target that triggers slimer.

BTW. I had the issue wbtd started every plunge. This started right after installing shooter lane cliffy. I found the switch was not making reliably. . I tested and adjusted the shooter lane switch and I have not seen the problem since.

#2779 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Boom. Chuck was right then. Fix that and you're probably good to go. Not sure how to adjust the cliffy. I've never installed one.

Yes, What I figure happens is the game actually thinks the ball is in the playfield and not in the shooter-lane.
So somehow it decides you made a shot in play or its just really confused with the ball magically appearing on the playfield without the shooter lane switch knowing its there...

#2780 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Boom. Chuck was right then. Fix that and you're probably good to go. Not sure how to adjust the cliffy. I've never installed one.

If your cliffy is aligned nice to the edge of the shooter lane curve, leave it be and then adjust your shooter lane switch.
This is done one of 2 ways (or both)
#1. loosen the two 1/8" hex screws. Use an 1/8" nut driver or a needle nose for you McGyvers .
Bring the switch up so the ball makes the switch early and every time.

#2. Using a needle nose, "re-form" the wire leaf, bending it upward to the ball.
Be careful not to break it. The wire is welded to the switches leaf and I'm sure you could break it if you're not careful.
By bending the wire upward, you raise the wire so the ball pushes it deeper sooner, resulting the in same effect as raising the switch.
-- I had to do both on my machine.

Use the ball and the switch test, let the ball gently roll back on to the switch and listen for the ding while watching the ball.

#2781 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Apparently not ,
Went into switch test , it says press any switch to Begin .Placed ball in shooter lane and nothing .

Check your switch to be sure the wire is not broken or the switch is not dead.
Press the switch all the way in from under the playfield in test switch mode. Hopefully the switch is not dead.

#2784 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

All fixed
Lifted switch mech and tightened screws.
Thanks Guys.

Yay! Good Job!

#2786 3 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Man Big Thanks again to both Chucks !
Just finished playing for a couple hours with a buddy and what a pleasure to have it working properly.
Thanks Guys

You're welcome my friend. I'm glad we could help.

#2788 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

My weak right flipper is back. It happens maybe 3 times a game mostly during multiball. Could it be a power issue because so much else is going on?
Would should I check here? Should I post a few pictures of the EOS switch?
Keep in mind that you might have to dump down your response.
Thanks.

So Todd Tuckey recently told a tale of a weak flipper issue for a customer. The cause was a sump-pump kicking in sucking the house power causing just low enough voltage to impact the flippers. This could be caused by freezers, Air conditioners, anything that draws a lot of power on initial start up.

#2798 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Damn out of stock. Have an order from them ready and don't feel like sep order from somewhere else just for hex. I might hold off until it comes back in. I'm looking to get that jackpot light board and Marco has it too which is why I was going with them.

You can get the spacer at pinball life as well. It's a 6-32 , 1-5/8" , 1/4" hex spacer.

#2810 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I changed mine to green and still have the issue. Sometimes a full plunge is smooth and sometimes it smacks the corner of the gate.
It does seem like my shooter is not quite centered but I don't know how to adjust it. I see that I can take all the screws out to remove it, but I don't see how to adjust it so when I put it back together it sits in a different position to the ball.

The shooter rod is actually "held in place" by clamp action inside plate, outside housing. There are some wood screws in there but they only serve to hold parts in place while you clamp the 2 halves together. I took mine apart and was able to align it before tightening the bolts.

#2814 3 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

That right ramp on the Premium is sooooo hard for me to hit sometimes............but damn....when I DO....it feels SOOOO GOOD.

I love hitting that right ramp and I actually think I'm getting better at it. I also love it more now that I have the ramp dialed in. No more spinoff to the left drain. Man that really erkked me. 90% of the time the ball would spin to the drain. Now it lands smooth as butter. Solution... 1-3/4" hex post with a slight 1/8" reform of the ramps output that drops the ball a bit deeper in the lane.

#2820 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Can you post a pic what the updated ramp looks like? Maybe focus on the changes bc I keep on hearing about this but would like to see the after product.

Honestly, there's nothing to see.
Replace the 2" hex post under the ramp plastic with a 1-3/4" or 1-5/8" hex post.
The slight bend I made to the wire habitrail is so small you cannot see it, but it did make a difference. (see image)
right-ramp2 (resized).png

#2822 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am still having difficulties with the subway/storage. If I have understood correctly, when the storage-light
is lit and the display tells that ball is locked, the ball should stay in the storage and wait for the multiball to
accumulate. However, in my game it may very well happen that ball search kicks in and the subway/storage
kicks the ball back to playfield. Today it in fact kicked both the balls that were supposedly locked in the storage
back to the playfield as a result of the ball search.

I was testing the storage / Ball lock today. This is a bit different than the OP, but you can get a ball kicked out of the subway when it says ball locked on the DMD. If you already have 2 balls in there and its not time for multi-ball, a 3rd ball will fire up the flashing red light on the play field and click a ball out. For me, the game was over as I was on the last ball & lost it. The game followed by clearing the locked balls by shooting out 2 balls after game over so I know there were 2 still in there.
So there can be times when ball lock displays yet kicks a ball out, but it won't be doing a ball-search. That's an issue.
The ball kickout is announced via playfield flashers or the train in the DMD so you if the ball is kicked out you know it was supposed to.
There's one more situation where the ball passes straight through the subway and Ernie says " You're up Kid".

The ball search and ball stuck in the subway is typically related to the ball rocking back and forth in the subway and no where it should be. Alignment of the subway and checking sensors is the best place to start. Some people have modified the plastic under the playfield to resolve the issue. ( modified as in reshaped it with heat as I recall. ) There are posts about it in early on in this topic.

#2824 3 years ago

This thread should be renamed the "Ghostbusters Tech Support Thread" because we don't just sit around crying about problems, we fix them. So yeah... Issues thread makes it sound like Ghostbusters is hopeless when it certainly is not.
In fact I think its awesome ! It just needs a little love where stern stopped, this thread takes over.

#2829 3 years ago

Ok I've got a question for all that have installed lighting mods.

I've heard some GB owners have damaged node boards with too many light mods.
I understand mods such as under cab lighting and even GI lighting can be powered off its own power source, but...
How about mods like Mezel-Mods green scoop flashers?
These type of mods rely on node bd logic to do their thing.
How many of such mods crosses the line and becomes risky?
Disclaimer: This is not a criticism of mezel-mod or any seller.
Its about thinking big picture: How many of these light-mods becomes a hazard to the spike system.
If you have more than 2 light mods running off the spike node bds, please post your results.

Examples..
Right Scoop light mod by Mezel Mod
Left scoop light mod by Mezel Mod
PKE skill shot display by Mezel Mod
Ghost Trap by Mezel Mod

#2830 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Anyone have an out of focus ecto goggle display?

I've never heard of this happening, Please take a picture so we can see how bad it is.
I can say that its not a super HD display, but when a ghost is in the display it should be plenty sharp enough.
eg2b (resized).jpg

#2847 3 years ago

This is the EOS Switch
Clean the copper contacts at the arrow point
EOS4 (resized).png

#2851 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Can someone tell me what 7 Degrees include is on this machine. I trying using my digital angle finder on my PF and I get different readings from the top of the PF vs the bottom. What is the bubble level on the machine supposed to look like at 7 degrees?

The bubble perfect center should be 6.5 degrees (per Stern) so setting the bubble high touching the top-line should be close to 7 degrees. The best option is a precision digital level. Long but less than the width of the open playfield so you can check for perfect level left to right and set between 6.5 & 7 degrees top-bottom. -- Using your basic hand size level near the middle of the playfield aligning it with something vertical (row of inserts) and then horizontal.
level pf (resized).png

#2879 3 years ago
Quoted from bb2j3z:

So came back to the game today, installed a cliffy to the shooter lane and it's doing the same thing. Just displays stern logo. Was thinking maybe wires came loose with lifting the play field. I repeated the same steps from last night with reseating the connectors, but it's still stuck.

I'm sorry to keep saying this, but Call Stern's tech line, talk to Chas. You want to get it on record.
Its possible Chas has seen this before and can tell you what to check.
I would also go back and make sure the RJ45 cable you reseated last time is in good shape.
It may be a partially damaged wire inside the cable.

#2891 3 years ago

No longer needed . Art solved it

#2898 3 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

recently made a very ugly discovery on my GB Premium cabinet.

Did you buy this NIB or a slightly used? I think it looks odd there is that metal shim in there. That's not normal.
Do you know for sure it was not like this when you bought it?

#2901 3 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

I wondered that too, but one guy said he set his up and never moved it yet it split.
FYI: Don't drag your machine around.
If you have to drag it, use magic sliders and have a person in front and a person in back holding on to the legs not the cabinet.
Best option is a pinball lift which I do not have either, but I've been seriously looking at them after all this drama.
Thankfully my Premium cabinet is still fine with no cracking or separation.
ebay.com link » Heavy Duty Pinball Lift Dolly Cart Made In The U S A

#2905 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Art or Chuck, Any response to my questions about the flipper swap, plunger plate and center post?

About the plunger: The wood screws are not the main thing. They hold it all in place while you tighten the bolts which are the real clamping action that holds it all. I would remove the wood screws, insert the bolts, adjust the way you want it, tighten bolts, then decide if you really want the wood screws. The bolts clamp it all very strong with no need for the wood screws other than they make it easy to hold parts in place while bolts are installed.

Flippers:
1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out?

Loosen the screw that clamps the post attached to the flipper .
Tap out if needed.
Install new flippers - ensure gap under flipper about the thickness of a credit card.
Tighten the bolts locking in the flipper post.
clamping bolt (resized).png

#2940 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

I wonder if just adjusting the switch does the same.
Removing the mylar would be the same as raising the wire on the switch. (bending wire upward to switch is pressed sooner)

#2945 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It's not exactly the same. I think what happens is that a fast moving ball is launched into the air when it hits the front edge of the mylar. It then comes flying around the corner and makes contact with the switch at a less than optimal trajectory. Removing the mylar keeps the ball solidly rolling on the playfield so it makes proper contact with the switch wire.

That makes sense. Thanks!

#2966 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I bought metal hex spacers from pinball life to fix right ramp and I got both 1-5/8 and 1-3/4. Both look bigger than I thought. Did I get the wrong size?

I see its already solved. (removed)

#3002 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I think he's talking about the far right circle that goes back to left flipper. I also have this where the ball gets caught in that gate and drops down to the poppers. I think the intention is for the ball to always go around and back to left flipper but that doesn't happen all the time. That's not normal right? Any fix?

The ball should not always go all the way around. With testing you will see there is a pattern to when the gate opens and when it does not. Now if you do the exact same thing and sometimes it opens , sometimes not, then that could be an issue.

#3011 3 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Mine does this too and it pisses me off. I put the replacement spring in the auto shooter, don't think it made much of a difference honestly, does it on a manual plunge also.

What's your angle front to back?
I'm assuming you have left right level at 0

#3023 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
enjoy

trim the 2 branches off to look like this

I'm hoping the first person that buys one of these items will do a quick review on it and show either a video or just let us know how well it works.

1 week later
#3065 3 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.
Anyone else experience this?

I've seen this before.
If this is the issue I think it is...
Slimer is hitting his tongue or belly (not but) on the tall building.
Yes Slimer is at best too close the building at full rest position.
You can bend the steel cable backward near slimer so the cable still touches the contact but then curves away from the building.
This also levels slimer so he sits more parallel to the play field.

To do this:
* Take Slimer arm off so you hold it easily.
* Hold Slimer firmly and bend the cable back at the point where the cable meets slimer.
* This cable does not bend easily so bend back further than needed.
-- The cable will "warp" a bit so its slightly curved away from the building.
* Put the arm back on do not tighten.
* Rotate up to ensure Slimer's face does not hit the tall building.

--Adjust Slimer switch--
* Enter test switch mode
* Loosen the set screw so slimer can rotate down manually.
* Take the arm off.
* Remove the slimer top plate
* Carefully looses the screws from the under side
* Shift the plate until the slimer cable just touches the contact-ring.
* Tighten the screws
* Put the arm back on and rotate test. (do not tighten the set-screw on the arm yet so you can rotate manually)
* Slimer should rarely ding the switch test when rotating.
* In the down position, tap slimer to see if he dings easily from the playfield position.
-- Keep in mind, there is software in place that suppresses the switch activation while rotating-down.

#3068 3 years ago
Quoted from Jamie126:

I've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

Code 1.13..
Erine says "Rookie. Aim for gozer"
Gower is flashing. Hit it.
Ernie say good job or similar and flashing stops.

1 week later
#3092 3 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Unboxed my prem last week. I have the problem that Slimer is dragging his butt
I untightened the Hex key but moving the pole up or down doesn't help much.
I see there is some solder underneath Slimer but don't know how to remove this safely?
I also noticed you can pull the wire upwards (see picture) and then it's fine. But after some play it moves down again and the problem retarts.
Thanks for any advice to fix this!

Solder underneath Slimer?? I need to see that.
pninja005, Can you show a picture of the butt drag?
I assume you mean over the captive ball, but I need to see it before commenting.

Most people are putting a washer under the rotating arm (loosen set screw raise and tighten) washer is optional, but a good idea.
The washer commonly used is the washer found on shooter rods.

2 weeks later
#3190 3 years ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

ok so this keeps happening. any suggestions?
» YouTube video

Yes, Increase the slope to 7 degrees. You can use a smart phone app or use the built in bubble on the right. For 7-degrees sent the bubble high within the lines (touching top line). (lower front feet or raise back feet) .

#3191 3 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I never noticed this. MY GB feels like my AC/DC. did you try increasing the flipper strength?

How exactly do you increase flipper strength on GB? I don't recall it as a setting.

#3193 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

2 - Up the slingshot power. They look weak to me.

I know Trekkie1978 is joking, but in the old code you could change the mag sling power although this was removed in the later code revisions.
pezpunk , Ifyou are not running code update 1.13, you want to update, but checking your video I see a ton of mods so I suspect you did the code update long before now.

2 weeks later
#3281 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

it does on my pro - kicks to the opposite flipper from the left scoop to the right flipper and with enough power to dead flip to the left flipper and catch and hold if I want.

I've always had my left scoop set to 20 and decided yesterday to set to max and try it out. I'm so not used the ball firing out at top speed .. but mine does hit the right flipper (bottom 1/4) no problem. Now I just need to adjust my brain to know its going to the right. I've played with it at 20 for so long I press left flipper without even thinking about the ball. I just know how long after launch to press , but not any more.

#3282 3 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

the carrot flippers are just perfect to make GB playing like (quite) all others pinballs, not too easy, not too hard, just the way i personaly enjoy it (and i'm a good player)
i know about the purists saying about the way Trudeau design it and bla bla bla...
than set up your pin just the way as you want, and than enjoy it
tournament is tournament
playing home, with family & friends, is another story

I don't see anyone selling the carrot flippers these days. Anyone have a link to them?

#3284 3 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Bought my carrot flippers from Marco
They make the game play much better and less frustrating.
The gap is way too big as they didn't catch it on the CAD drawing. Trudeau had a wider gap designed, but engineering dept. made it even wider, so the carrot flippers bring it back to how trudeau had it designed originally.
Great game!!!!! Much more on the premium than the new Star Wars

I've looked at several standard flippers and compared to the carrots at Marco. Each is only 9/64" or 3.5mm longer .
Does this tiny amount really make a noticeable difference? 3.5mm22 (resized).jpg

#3328 3 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Not sure what you mean by the insert is "proud" of the playfield? At any rate who cares, you have a brand new playfield coming that will be defect free.

Terms 'proud' and 'shy' are often used by carpenters. My father-in-law (age 86) who's a carpenter uses that term a lot.

proud means the insert is sticking up , shy would mean its recessed.

#3334 3 years ago
Quoted from ecto1a2003:

Correct, sorry about that i'm set in my vocabulary. Sometimes i forget that. Anyway it has 397 plays on it. Ball marks everywhere.
My big concern is how long will the new playfield last? Another 400 games?

If the (new) playfield is built correctly, it will last for decades, but it wont stay perfect. It has a steel ball smashing around on it. It should not be popping inserts the 1st year. In contrast I've had my GB-Prem. since Sept 2016 and it has no insert issues and looks pretty much the same as the 1st day. The only change is minor dimpling which I did not see until I read about it here on pinside and then checked my machine and sure enough it was dimpled. I'm glad I had pinside members here to educate me along the way on my 1st pinball machine.

1 month later
#3390 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Can anyone link me to a post which clearly shows whats needed/should be supplied to upgrade original slimer mech to the new design please? I've had a few parts sent to me to supposedly replace the mech but I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to it than that.

Here's John's Arcade video on how to upgrade slimer. He received a full new slimer arm.
I've never personally seen the old mech disassembled so I cannot say how to use those parts.
You can post pictures of the old mech and then I can comment more.

#3391 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Can anyone link me to a post which clearly shows whats needed/should be supplied to upgrade original slimer mech to the new design please? I've had a few parts sent to me to supposedly replace the mech but I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to it than that.

It makes more sense if you look at the exploded view so you can take yours apart and reassemble.
I suggest you take photos before taking it apart in case you have to put it back the old way.
slimer prem-le (resized).png
slimer pro new (resized).png