(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#69 4 years ago
Quoted from Ed209:

If you're looking for perfection you may want to rethink this hobby.

this is exactly right. In this hobby there is no such thing as perfection. That's why it's important you guys learn how to tweak and fix your own shit. Stuff gets banged around a bunch in shipping. They can't test every game for hours on end. They hit slimer a couple of times. he registers, they move on. It's the way it works. Otherwise they will be shipping games as fast as JJP.

#93 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I know I get downvoted any time I'm critical of Stern's QC process, but how is it possible to defend the fact that they shipped these games with so many flipper issues? If it is software based, who gave the approval to ship the game with an obvious defect right out of the gate? Is that not something to criticize here, for games that cost this much brand new? I mean, either they knew this was a problem and didn't mention this and shipped anyway, assuming people can update later, or they just didn't test the game enough to know of the problem. Either way, not good.

since your new. You havn't seen every manufacturer, for every decade had problems out of the box. EVERYONE. when you have items with 100's of moving parts and complex circuitry, things will get overlooked. B/W had plenty of problems with new games right out of the box. Gottlieb had grounding issues for a decade, DE, Sega, JJP...EVERYONE has it.

Cars have been made longer than pinball machines. You would think they have their shit together. But how many factory recalls happen? quite a few and they make a hell of a lot more per model, than pinball does.

#97 4 years ago
Quoted from Darkslide632:

I don't know anyone who buys a brand new car, finds out there is something wrong with it, and goes "Oh well! Shit happens!" Nor do I know of any cars that get recalled because some main feature, easily noticed by everyone who drives it, is fucked up. Slimer is right smack-dab in the middle of the playfield. How many cars do you know that were recalled because "Oh, hey, guys, sorry... we forgot to install the rear-view mirror"

it would be more like. your fan for your heat and A/C goes in and out. WHich has happened in new cars.

If you forgot to install a mirror, would be like if slimer was completely missing. Then that's a major fuckup. that's a different story. but if your defrost on your mirror doesn't work. Only the cold states would ever notice and when it's winter time.

#128 4 years ago

actually, the downvotes is what gets you in the cool kid club. The more you get the better.

#147 4 years ago

i pull metal wire rails like this at least 4 times a month. Usually there are spot on the underside of the playfield where you can see the wire peeking through. all you have to do, is take an AWL and a hammer and pound out the wire guides from the back. Raise them up to where you like. That's all there is to it.

#207 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Hopefully they put in a thicker gauge wire form for later runs. Would be an easy enough mod for someone to come up with.

yea but the playfield will have to be drilled to handle the thicker gauge wire. It should be the size they use for the outlanes.

#245 4 years ago

LE's always get the design shafts. Problems are figured out, and corrected on premiums. You see. LE's are sold and you guys line up for them before they are even made. What incentive do they have to worry about fixing anything? That's already money in the bank. It's the premiums that will sell and keep on selling. Those are the ones that need to have attention paid to them, so they can keep selling them, release after release. But don't worry. LE buyers have that nifty plaque.

#249 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Although I see your point and am not disagreeing with you, that's pathetic though.

yes it sucks. Pinball is just one of those hobbies where you do NOT want the first ones. I always want as close to the last one made of any game. Those usually have all the fixes worked out.

#253 4 years ago

WE all just saw LE footage being played. So they must be on the line or you wouldn't have seen it.

#261 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Exactly man ! 13-14+ years ago I worked at Flextronics while they made PCB's for the original Xbox 1. Many times the line was paused to implement fixes and changes, then restarted. PCB's were junked it it was reported to have an issue, as obviously fixing the product *before* it hits consumers homes was the key.
I guess in the pinball hobby people are more lenient and complacent with what seems to be a higher defect rate and lower build quality expectation. Stern probably doesn't care much as they read Pinside and see all the guys with up votes making excuses on their behalf, and they know we can't pack up the machine and go into a retailer and ask to switch for a new one or get a refund. Imagine if Stern made these things for Costco? (They may have at one point if I recall) - Costco would tell them to piss off once they saw the level of issues out of the box.
Fact is, many people are right here- you need to set expectations for many issues, defects, failures, and problems with games out of the box. For a company with 30+ years of experience with pinball machines being on their production line, I find that extremely disappointing considering most of these problems should have been caught during the testing process. From lights being miswired, or not wired at all, to broken switches being installed, flippers not working, etc etc it's not the hobby itself with the problem.. It's the questionable management of a consumer electronics production line that happens to build pinball machines. Not a shining example of American / US made products at all.
I literally cannot recall a Chinese made electronic product or device that had physical defects out of the box that I've purchased in a LONG time... Yet, here on Pinside.. The advice is to literally wait months to purchase the machine, not be part of the hobby, or just expect shoddy quality out of the box. Amazing, considering how expensive these things are now.

and yet, they didn't fix the one major problem they had. Overheating and causing cold solder joints on the graphics and processor chip. SO people had problems down the line. Not everything is fixable right away. some things need to be fixed later on.

It's not just as easy as stopping the line. You don't magically have the new part sitting there. You have to have a metal stamper or whoever, have the parts made, and get them to you. Short run metal stampers take about a month to 2 months to even get a rush job through. So the line is suppose to sit in limbo with half completed machines sitting there for a wire that bends? This is something they can correct and send out a fix later. I see why stern isn't stopping production, but I can see them fixing it down the road.

#329 4 years ago
Quoted from exflexer:

Also can Captain remove the 20 tagged machines that has nothing to do with this thread? It would be appreciated.

sorry, i don't have the ability to remove tagged games.

#332 4 years ago

hummm an imposter in the works. Time to do some internet tag location hunting and see where it's coming from.

Edit: looks like the culprit has already been blocked and banned.

#359 4 years ago

BDK doesn't have problems with hits on the crane. Why don't they use a similar system with Slimer?

1 week later
#438 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

This happened a lot with the scoop on KISS. The problem is that the switch closes, but doesn't stay closed when the ball goes in there. The game code fires the coil to eject the ball, but doesn't score anything because the switch was open again. It could be a similar issue with GB.

sounds like it could be fixed with a cap on that switch to draw out the single length so quick hits acknowledge. If that's the case.

#538 4 years ago

that sucks. Guess it's not just JJP that has lighting issues.

#580 4 years ago

I think the center post is an awesome idea. personally I love it. I think all of you should do it. Because years from now, when real players buy your machines. They will need those playfields restored and fixed. It's a win win situation for me. 5 years from now, I can see a flood of GB playfields heading my way. You would be surprised how many TZ and BSD fields i've had to fix for people with surprise center post "mods".

One of my favorites was a TZ with posts added to the middle of the outlanes as well. That guy probably thought he was the best pinball player on the planet.

#661 4 years ago

exactly. Plus there were tons of blemishes in the cabinets and playfields. ops didn't give a shit. Collectors these days would have a cow, if they saw the mismatched marker touchups we used to get in the B/W 90's days. Pinball is no place for the anal collector.

#667 4 years ago
Quoted from TxJay:

I believe you are a little off on your comparisons. B/W didn't charge 10K for a pinball machine even if you factor in inflation rates. Stern's quality has not improved ( if not gotten worse) as their cost goes up and they continue to cut corners on the builds. But hey, as long as you have people that will buy anything new that Stern comes out with, where is their incentive to change?

game only have increased in price because you guys line up for games you never played. As long as your wallets keep coming out, the price will keep going up. Has nothing to do with build quality. Never will be. It's how much you guys are willing to pay. Flaws remain consistent over the decades.

1 week later
#720 4 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Can't you just raise the outlane wire guides or are they too short?

i've said this like 100's of times, and I think people don't know what the hell i'm talking about. They would rather throw money at mods, since mods is all they know.

#723 4 years ago
Quoted from PW79:

I suspect lifting the wireguides could result in damage later on
If there isn't enough of the wire in the actual playfield it could knock loose a bit, wiggle for a while, make the wood all gnarly & finally strip it's way out
Ya might chip the paint lifting it out too BTW
The only legit fix is Stern making the wire lane taller.

but how do you know how much wire you have? Have you looked under there? I've seen factory wire guides sticking out the bottom 1/4" before. You really only need to go halfway into the playfield to be effective. Anything more is overkill. If they are already only half way into the playfield, and there isn't any more room. Then yes, Stern Fawked up, and needs to make them 1/2" longer.

#727 4 years ago
Quoted from PW79:

Its pretty clear Stern F'd up & designed or received shorter wire guides.
There's no way one new guy in the assembly line is to blame for every playfield.
"Hey new guy. Dont hammer those in so far"

they have a rig system to install those. If the rig was made wrong and allowed them to go in farther than they should, it could happen. I've seen it on B/W games.

3 months later
#1314 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Has anyone else noticed that sometimes during gameplay pressing both flippers at the same time results in the lower playfield GI lights to go off? and then as soon as you release they come back on. (both at the same time). Then everything goes back to normal and it won't happen again and I have no idea what exact circumstances make it happen. Just noticed it more than once. Perhaps normal? Bug?

I had an issue last night after about game 3 since the unboxing. GI sections 2 and 3 (middle and top) went dim to a flicker. And matrix panels top left, middle and right also went dim to a flicker. Stayed like that for about 4 games, then worked normal for about 4 games, and then went out again. Also have an issue where the flashers for the Mag slings stays on for awhile.

#1317 4 years ago

the more I play this, the more I think it's software related instead of hardware. I set my flashers to low (which still is too fawking bright). I still get the glitch where the mag sling flashers stay lit at certain times. Ball launches by itself sometimes. Top and middle GI's still go out from time to time. But I noticed certain modes do it as well. It's almost as if the software is doing it.

anyone else think the LE software for 1.05 is glitchy?

#1320 4 years ago

I posted this in the offical LE thread but should be posted here as well.

I've noticed on a lot of LE pictures the flippers seemed down to far and misaligned. Mine was the same way. Because the marking guides are down to far. I adjusted the flippers where they should be and now shots are smooth. Far right tight ramp is easier and smooth. Ball reacts the way it should from bounces. Main ramp you can backhand with the left flipper. Before shots would feel a little off. Hitting entrances on the way in, instead of flowing in. Now all shots are smoothed out. Feels 100% better.

Also solved bounce overs and reduced side drains from the metal guides on the outlanes. I've told people this before and nobody seems to put forth any effort to do it. So I looked at how they had the side rails mounted. They go all the way through the playfield and flush with the backside. Rails do not need to be that far in. Especially ones this thick.
Tools you will need:
Drill bit, awl or rod that is smaller diameter than the rail.

Have someone hold the playfield up, put the flat part of the drill bit against the rail edge and hit it in about 1/4". Not only did it stop bounce overs, but also reduced side drains. Which at first, I couldn't figure out why. Height of the rail shouldn't effect it. But here's what i found out. The rail has a curved edge. With the rail to low, the curved edge hits under the ball and not on the outside edge of it's greatest circumference. This also would get under the ball and cause lift, allowing the ball to roll up the curve of the metal rail. With the rail 1/4" higher, it now hits the widest part of the ball. Giving no lift, and closing the side gap, as it doesn't allow about 1/16" of ball to travel over it. Made a big difference and doesn't cost a cent. These are the types of things that are done when dialing in a game and make a huge difference in getting your games to play smooth and nice.

#1324 4 years ago

see, i had the opposite effect. The game plays much smoother in a natural flipper alignment for me anyway. I'm sure each game needs to be tweeked and adjusted so how everything lines up.

#1326 4 years ago

did you look if the diverter is opening up all the way? might be getting hung up and hitting the ball when it's suppose to be open.

I just spent 3 hours trying to figure out a way to get the PKE ramp to work smoother. Because shots would hit, get to the top and not make it around. Even nice shots. So I took out the hex support and put a shorter one in. Loosed up the 2 flap screws somewhat and lowered how the ball drop was. Helped a little bit. The main thing was the right metal guide at the ramp entrance. Mine was bent half assed and didn't follow the curve of the ramp worth a crap. was a 1/8" gap in spots. So I rebent it to follow the ramp edge. Helped a lot. That 1/8" gap made a world of difference.

Also made a blocking shield for the ecto goggles. Basically a square sheet of plastic that uses the L brackets on the slings that arn't being used. Mounted it to a clear plastic wall, and attached it to the screw for the exit gate by the pops. Protects the glass and the left side of the goggles. We will see if it stops airballs from getting in there now.

#1333 4 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

This is the direct result of having the flippers lifted from the factory position, and why I ended up putting the flippers back even though other shots felt a bit better with the flippers up. If you are convinced that tweaking the ramp has addressed the right ramp shot with repositioned flippers then I might try that. Are you getting most shots to complete now?

no, it sucked worse in factory. It was the way the right side guard followed the wall of the ramp. Combining that, with lowering the wire form section, made the downward slope better. Now instead of getting a 90% failure on shots, i'm getting about 70% successful.

#1335 4 years ago

Ok, here is a pic of the metal guide. Still not completely tight, but way better than it was. Before it would extend out and the curve started to late. Left a 1/8" gap between the metal and the ramp.

ghostbusters modifications (1) (resized).JPG

#1336 4 years ago

Here is the plastic wall I put up. It's not pretty, but i'm testing running it right now Until I can figure out a good solution for the standup airballs.

ghostbusters modifications (2) (resized).JPG

ghostbusters modifications (3) (resized).JPG

#1337 4 years ago

and here is my flipper alignment. I found that this setup makes all the shots much smoother and more natural ball control. I can hit all shots off the tip and backhand the left saucer and ramp. I can backhand the, ok, who brought the dog shot from the right side as well.

ghostbusters modifications (4) (resized).JPG

ghostbusters modifications (5) (resized).JPG

#1339 4 years ago

i've had it bounce off the reflector, roll between the reflector, bounce off the top of the plastic housing. Flies right past it into the shooter lane at least 40 times now. I wanted to protect it, because i've seen the reflector get cracked and the LCD split inside the unit from airballs.

1 week later
#1391 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Completed Stay Puft numerous times now and whenever starting the Multipliers are all 1x. Anyone know how to increase these or is it not even in the code?

how the hell are you getting to stay puft so easy? I have yet to reach him once. But I do not have a center post and set to about 7degree pitch. Factory side posts and standard stock everything.

#1400 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Once you know what you're doing it's not that tough Neo. I've made it there numerous times on a route game with stock settings. The first 2 modes should be a breeze to get through. When you're in Gozer mode shoot the right ramp right away and then the Gozer target. Then shoot all the lit shots (I think there's 4 of them) and the Gozer target again to complete. Then it should be lit at right orbit.

I guess that's the problem. the first mode is easy. Sure. Second mode is easy until I have to do the far right shot. It's so exact on mine, that 10% it makes it and goes through all the way. Even with my modifications. Before it wouldn't go through at all from a shot, it would have to be some off the wall weird bounce hit off the flipper to make it all the way up.

I've made it to gozar several times, but again you have a far right shot that has to be made again. Getting it the one time was difficult enough, to try and do it twice in the same game is damn near impossible on my machine.

#1402 4 years ago

I have found I can backhand it sometimes with the right flipper. THen it flies up there fast as shit. But the shot is precision.

#1414 4 years ago

there is a setting in game adjustments. Left saucer power. Set it to 20 and it will be perfect every time.

#1452 4 years ago
Quoted from Jive:

Fyi, I believe I have fixed my airball issue without using any type of protector/shield. Took two small pieces of weather stripping, and stuck them to the back of the targets at the very top. Now, when the target is hit, it stays angled down, and does not launch the ball. Played seven games, and really tried to hammer both targets. Not one ball came off the playfield. I think this is similar to an idea that was posted earlier in this thread, but I did not remove the stock padding. YMMV.

I did the same thing to my stand ups. Helped a ton. Even a softer weather stripping doesn't allow the target to snap back fast enough for the ball to get lift.

2 weeks later
#1556 4 years ago

i still have no chipping or ghosting. I'm about 500 games in.

1 week later
#1634 4 years ago

who the hell cares about the drain hole edge? Unless you stick your forehead against the glass and look backwards under the apron you will not see it. Every B/W, DE, Sega, Stern has ware at this edge. Even with my restorations people don't care about that spot and don't pay to even have it fixed. Nobody really gives a shit. You guys are worrying about shit that really doesn't matter.

#1682 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

OK that's it. That's IT! Frustration boiled over with those left and right drains. They are pure evil and need some major attention.
I am going to add an extension to the outer rails and make them just a bit longer - and taller. In other words, where they enter the playfield at the top, I'm going to build a piggyback rail to "extend" the end of that rail and make it a bit closer to the back box. It appears that lengthening the starting point of those rails will narrow the gap and prevent the drain from gulping the ball when it's nearby. A little less space will be a big game-play advantage as far as I can see. Actually it's marginal anyway, since the STDM seems to have its way with me anyway.
Make any sense? I will have to drill two 3/16" holes into the playfield on each side to add this extension. But I'm committed. I've had it with those drains and will fix the issue. I realize I'm treading on thin ice and breaking the law by drilling into the playfield, but I can't go another round with those nasty designed-to-limit-ball-time drains.
Anyone else with me on this?

did you listen to me and pound your wire rails up 1/4"? Cuts down on side drains by 30%. Yes 30% just from raising the rails to where they are suppose to be.

#1705 4 years ago

Root cause= stand ups

Solution= Add thick foam padding behind the standup. Remove current padding. As a bonus if you take the target out and use pliers, you can add a slight bend to the top part. So when the ball hits the target, the top of the target stays out more, adding downward force to the ball instead of making it a ramp. Cuts down airballs about 85%.

#1708 4 years ago
Quoted from yfz450:

Sounds logical. Are these standups different from earlier Stern games? Padding different?

I think they are the same but I think they were bent back a little in ratio to the angle that screws it into the playfield. giving it about a 45 degree pitch when the target is leaning back from a hit. Which makes it airborne.

#1768 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

My first very functional and useful mod - just installed it tonight. I have been frustrated (as most of you) with the left and right drains, so I put together a modded outer drain rail piggyback piece. Fit nicely and it works absolutely great so far, so I think I got it just right. To do it, I needed to drill two holes on the playfield per side. Then I formed a stainless steel rail to match the factory rail size. Doing one at a time to test it.
My goal: Minimize the dreaded side drain. Not to eliminate it, but make it more difficult for the ball to drain as it does. So I built one for the left drain to test. Shown here, with the specific drill bit to make the rail fit tightly into the playfield:

Positioning the new piggyback rail to see how it will fit into the machine:

Next, marked the location:

Drill the first hole into the playfield (I guess I'm now committed):
And the second hole:

Tap the piggyback rail firmly into the playfield:

Move the pin post to the forward hole:

Clean up the playfield with a vacuum cleaner, and give it a shot. It works beautifully. I can still get a ball into the drain, but most of the time, if it's not a direct hit, it will bounce back. Out of ten potential hits, it drained twice. Before, it would have drained ten out of ten times....And, with the extra height, it has stopped a few air balls that would normally go right into the drain.
I will now make the right side identically to the left side. The machine is much more fun to play when the game ball lasts a bit longer.
100% happy with this mod.

ummmm, why did you need to do this, when you could have just pounded the ones that are there up 1/4". Does the same thing. I went into lengthy discussions about it on numerous threads, talking about how it eliminated bounce overs, and side drains by 30%.

With your rail out that far, you closed the side gaps way to much. basically it's a cheat. Just moving the existing rails up, already closed the gap by 1/16" more than it did at the factory. Now you are closing the gap about 1/4" by adding this other wire. Might as well just put fat rubber on it at this point.

#1769 4 years ago

and for $0 you can just pound up the existing rails. no damage to your playfield. 5 min fix and you are done.

#1770 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

You guys got it all wrong. Drilling a hole or two into the playfield won't kill the resale value whatsoever.

Really? Did you just sign up for pinside today? You are watching a group that is complaining about the edge getting worn under the apron where the ball drains and nobody ever sees. A place where people complain about dimples that are suppose to happen, and the clear lifting in shooter lanes, that has been happening for 30 years, but now all of a sudden, it's catastrophic. All those things that people shouldn't even be giving a shit about, becomes a bitch session, and you don't think THIS won't effect resale value? Welcome to pinball, glad to have you here and enjoy the hobby.

#1792 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I'm not trying to get you all worked up. Just pointing out that there are different ways to achieve the same results. And I'm not "walling off" the outlanes, just making them a bit easier on the player. I happen to have the tools and design skills to mod with hard parts, that's all.
And I can assure you that say, five years up the road, my "drilled out" home-only machine with probably no more than 300 plays on it would out-bid a five year old routed game with absolutely no mods on it whatsoever. Even after I point out the drill-bit mod.
But lets face it, we're not in this hobby to appease the next owner; we are here with a common interest and want to enjoy pinball to its fullest extent. And if it means modding our stuff to the max, so be it. Do whatever floats your boat.

I wasn't getting worked up. You can do what you want. Just saying, to say that it doesn't effect the resale value. Means you really underestimate the anal retentive nature of this group. It's not that easy of a fix. I fix stuff all the time like this for games over the years. Lots of center posts on games that don't have them. Even had posts put in the middle of the side drains. Even had a post on TZ block the orbit, because the gumball machine broke, so they blocked the shot so you couldn't make it in the gumball machine. Funny stuff.

For me personally. Drill away. that's just job security for me. Whoever buys your game down the road will probably send it to one of us playfield restorers to fix. Win Win situation.

1 week later
#1903 4 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

Update Slimer Motor:
I checked the motor and I have nothing like you fine people have do. Since I have a Pro I have the slimer arm (plastic) attached to the motor and is not a belt system. But as it moves it makes a horrible noise. Here is a vid of this:
I never heard it while playing until recently. My wife pointed it out to me last night when she way playing. More than likely I will be contacting my distributor or Stern on this one. What do you guys think about this? Any other Pro owners hear this motor or could document their motor sound? I'm scared that the motor could quit working all together.

that's nothing. you have the playfield up and your face in it. With the glass on you should barely be able to hear that. You think that's loud, you should hear how loud the gearbox is on TAF when thing comes out.

#1906 4 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

I can clearly hear Slimer move up and down when I couldn't before during play with the glass on. I shouldn't be concerned of it's now audible nature?

I wouldn't be.

2 months later
#2496 3 years ago

I call those spider cracks. I think they get those when they are pressed tightly into the hole, or from the grinding machine when all inserts are inserted...then the grinder goes down the field and shaves everything flat. Happens in a lot of games. B/W games have them from time to time as well. Just part of the process.

1 week later
#2528 3 years ago

Keep in mind that some right orbit shots will not activate unless you make it all the way around to the left side. So you try backhanding it up and only makes it to the pops, does not count, is not a switch problem. It's the way certain shots are programmed.

#2531 3 years ago

also what code are you running? The orbit acts differently during different revisions.

#2536 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

This is changed in the latest code. Full orbits are not required any more to even qualify scenes.

i have the newest code and a couple shots are still needed to have full orbit. Like to start spook central, it has to go all the way around.

1 month later
#2752 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Premium owner here. Other than the insane number of airballs (thank goodness I've got protectors), it plays pretty well.
I've got two frustrations:
1.) Probably 95% of my shots to the PKE (right) ramp make the 180 degree bend, stop, and come back down. What am I missing here? I'm not seeing anything obvious. I can make this shot all day on a Pro (yeh I know the shape is different), but I know it's not me missing the ramp or hitting it weakly. Any ideas on a fix?
2.) Hard shots through the right orbit fail to register. I manually active the switch 100 times in test mode and get 100 registers. I'm trying to figure out how the ball is missing the switch coming around the bend past Stay Puft.
Could someone point me to a solution to these?

I had the exact same issue. Here's how I made mine work 95% better

Lowered the hex about 1/4"
Moved the end of that wire ball trail under all the plastics on the other end to lower it's angle.
Loosened the ramp so I could aim it more to the left flipper for a smoother transition
cut 3/16" off the blue rubber to widen the gap
Bent the metal wall that hugs the right side of the ramp entrance. If you look down from the top, there is a gap between it and the plastic ramp. Took a pliers and bent it so it's formed to the ramp. This also widened the entrance another 1/8"

combo of all of these has improved the shot.

2 weeks later
#2917 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I am on a roll and have more to tell and more to ask.
I installed the Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly - Cabinet Mounting part #500-6587-06-TL picked up a PBL. On SPIKE games apparently you can just plug the wires that are hanging from the node board. They hooked up same way as the start button. No Diode needed to be solider in like SAM machines. You also have to go into service mode and enable Competition mode for the button to flash.
I do have two more questions.
1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out? Do you have to gap them? Do I have to disassemble a lot to get to them? Any tips would help.
2) I attached a picture of my shooter rod plate. It looks way off center based on the artwork. There are three Philips screws and two hex head that hold the plate and shooter in place. It doesn't look like there is any adjustment to re position other than taking the screws out and retapping them in the wood. I am not sure if I moved the position of the shooter plate it wouldn't infact throw off the shooter alignment and geometry. It's ridiculous they let things like this leave the factory this way. Please advise what I should do.
P.S. I will be gluing and clamping the left side of the cabinet on Sunday when my dad brings over his clamps.

why do you have those plastic leg pieces of crap on your game, when the game comes with the standoff kind already installed?

1 week later
#3027 3 years ago

angling the targets and adding thicker denser foam behind them is a better alternative to the protector. Protector allows the airball to still happen and fly back with some air. Tho, lower profile trajectory. Where keeping the target angled differently, keeps the airball from happening at all. Adding thicker foam, helps cushion the blow more so and eliminates the airball almost entirely.

2 weeks later
#3089 3 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Well, it looks like I found the reason for the ball-searches at the storage/subway. A broken wire (ground) to connector 15 at node 10.
I will need to investigate, where to buy those tiny new connectors for the wires. Any help in relation to finding correct part is appreciated

that's not a broken wire. the pin is still on there. Just put it back in so the top tab snaps into the slot and you are good to go. just make sure you know which one it goes back into. if it doesn't lock in. Take a tiny screwdriver, and pull up the tab ever so slightly. Then it will slide in and lock into the molex.

#3096 3 years ago

yup, I concur. just bend the top up more, problem solved. Take you 2 sec to do with your fingers.

1 week later
#3133 3 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.
basically 2 install locations
Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.
Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

You have your wedge installed upside down. You want to the target aimed more towards the playfield, not leaning back. Leaning back is why the ball flies in the air. If it's aimed more towards the ground, it keeps it on the field when being hit.

#3136 3 years ago

i'm looking at it correct. The fat part of the wedge should be closest to the plastic face of the target. So it's spaced thinner at the bottom most section. Tilting the target forward towards the mounting screw holes. Actually the wedge should be on the front between the target and the mounting screws. So it leans it forward. This way, it's only leaning the back bracer forward. That isn't going to do much.

#3139 3 years ago

yea, I worded it wrong. I ment it should stay in that position, but should be in front of the switch not in back. In back doesn't do anything.

#3143 3 years ago
Quoted from ecto1a2003:

I had a strange air ball thanks to the scoleri brothers. freaked me out. what a good way to stop this?

I had a lot of stuck balls in that area. The best way to fix that from happening is ..... Take out both screws that hold that sign on. Move the bottom hole of the sign to the top hole of the bracket. Use just one screw and put the sign back on. Now the sign is high enough that the ball can roll out of there when it goes up there (it will happen a lot). No more stuck balls

#3147 3 years ago

Btw, Stern has changed the flipper alignment to normal.

I said it over and over that the flippers are droopy and doesn't play correctly to the design of the field. People here kept saying that's the way it was ment to be because it came from the factory that way. I fixed my flippers so they are setup like all other new sterns. Shots were smoother and cleaner.

NOW:::: fresh from the stern factory. The flippers are coming out, aligned correctly. no more droopy flippers. Friend just bought a new premium and the flippers were setup like mine were.

The marker holes are still in the droopy spot, but they were installed so the holes were aligned with the bottom of the flipper plastic. Stern realized they screwed up and changed it.

#3149 3 years ago

I posted a pic before on how I aligned my flippers. That is the way they are coming out of the factory now as well. All shot patterns are exactly like mine. you can backhand the left ramp with ease. Same with the "who brought the dog" loop.

flipper alignment 3 (resized).jpg

#3152 3 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

Can any other new owners confirm this? I tried making my flippers standard and it screwed up all the shots for me. Most likely I was just used to the droopy positions but if they really are supposed to be standard now I might give it another try.

I saw it first hand from the new Premium off the line from one of our guys in our league. Don't know if he ever posts on here. I know he reads it, but don't know if he has an account. Anyone in our league that was there when he hosted this last weekend can confirm it.

#3156 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Can confirm what? I think the previous post wanted confirmation that it changes the shot geometry.

confirmation that it changes the shot geometry? that would be a dumb ass question, as every fraction those flippers are set up or down completely changes the geometry on every game.

#3158 3 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

I was looking for confirmation on if Stern is shipping new GB with standard flipper angles and if that is how they are supposed to be. He had said Stern screwed up and realized they should not be droopy.
Seems odd to me that after a year or so of producing these they would start to change flipper angles now so I was wondering if it is a one-off or they indeed intend for them to be standard angles.

it's not that crazy. because of the alignment holes are in the playfield wrong. Production is used to aligning the flippers based upon that. Also takes awhile for word to get around, then to get production to compensate for it, it's going to take awhile for that to happen. They had more pressing issues to resolve. Flipper alignment wasn't top priority, as it's something people can fix at home without much effort.

#3160 3 years ago

making normal alignment, it you can backhand with power. Hell, if i'm fast enough I can backhand the librarian scoop. that's a great feeling.

#3179 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It's not as easy as it is on older solid state games, but I generally have pretty good success with the move if the flippers are adjusted correctly. On GB, however, it's extremely difficult.

I own both GB and GoT. There is no comparison. The flippers on GB play like s**t. It's something I've gotten used to, but I sure would like to know why the flippers are so different on this game. If we can identify the cause, then perhaps we can come up with a fix.

I never noticed this. MY GB feels like my AC/DC. did you try increasing the flipper strength?

#3221 3 years ago

so the back of the through shouldn't all be lit up on the other side? Looks like only 1 led is lit.

#3223 3 years ago

thought the LEDs were added as monitor items. So if a transmitter or receiver went out, the LED would go out letting you know what the faulty component is. Because OPTO leds you can't visually see working.

1 week later
#3234 3 years ago

I remember a setting for coil power settings. I think there was one for flippers.

#3242 3 years ago

my left scoop shoots to my left flipper, no problems, never down the middle. I set my power to 15.

#3244 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

I don't think anyone has a problem with it feeding to the left. It's trying to get it to feed to the right like it is designed to do.

why do you think it's designed to do that? I don't know of many games where the scoop is suppose to launch the ball to the opposite side flipper.

#3294 3 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Bought the carrot bats (blue) from Marco today with the Green Translucent Super Bands. Think that would look good everyone? I just hope that tiny extra length helps me save some of those dreaded SDTM shots that happen way too often

would look better with carrot bats and regular green rubber.

#3307 3 years ago
Quoted from Fitzhume:

It's been some time that I've visited here to this thread since I got my Pro back in October 2016. I've been trying to catch up on everyone's experiences and found this one to be rather interesting. Thanks for this update and I'll be looking at my flipper angles tonight. Are you just eyeing it up or are you putting them at a specific degree angle from a square portion of the table?

seems the tip is up so that the bottom edge of the flipper, aligns with the top of the alignment hole. Seems like a subtle difference, but makes a big difference in gameplay.

#3316 3 years ago
Quoted from ecto1a2003:

WTF! one of my inserts is proud of the playfield, several others are cracking! i'm afraid to even play this thing now.

I don't see anything wrong with this except a little slight ghosting on one of your inserts. Nothing major. if you can't handle ghosting, you better get out of pinball now, because any game with clearcoat on the field can ghost.

#3322 3 years ago

the gate inside isn't opening all the way and blocking the ball. Shine a light down there, make the shots and see what's going on.

#3325 3 years ago

yes, it's not going all the way back and part of it is sticking out. So when the ball is coming through, it hits that tip and stops it enough so it can't make it up and out. So it just halfpipes back and forth in there until settling into the kickout hole.

#3336 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

If the (new) playfield is built correctly, it will last for decades, but it wont stay perfect. It has a steel ball smashing around on it. It should not be popping inserts the 1st year. In contrast I've had my GB-Prem. since Sept 2016 and it has no insert issues and looks pretty much the same as the 1st day. The only change is minor dimpling which I did not see until I read about it here on pinside and then checked my machine and sure enough it was dimpled. I'm glad I had pinside members here to educate me along the way on my 1st pinball machine.

a lot of the education around here is very wrong. least you saw the parts where you know not to freak out from dimpling as it's the natural order of pinball.

#3340 3 years ago

raise your drop target up. The ball is hitting that corner, and going to chip it out. No matter how good the clear is.

1 month later
#3398 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Can anyone link me to a post which clearly shows whats needed/should be supplied to upgrade original slimer mech to the new design please? I've had a few parts sent to me to supposedly replace the mech but I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to it than that.

if that's an upgrade kit, it looks like they cut off the entire bottom of slimer. Guess that's one way not to get drag.

4 weeks later
#3426 3 years ago

you can stop that from happening, by moving the sewer sign to the top screw hole with the bottom hole. Ball will roll out every time it goes up there.

#3436 3 years ago

i've seen sopranos drop and transformers drop do the exact same thing. It's not just GB that brick on the drops. hell, my pinball magic used to brick on direct hits too. It's a drop target thing, not a GB thing. If it pisses you off when it happens. Either don't buy games with drops, or learn how to graze them from the edges or backhand.

#3438 3 years ago

I think you just have to give it some time. I've had plenty of old games that brick all the time as well. Let them break in a bit and I think it will get better over time. As the plastic wears, the metal lip wears, it won't regrab so easy anymore and should drop more and more consistent.

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