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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 4,469 posts
  • 528 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (4 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (4 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (4 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (4 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#912 4 years ago

A week into owning the game and I honestly have gotten so much better at it. My one big "issue" is the Scolari Bros are driving me nuts. Tonight I shot one DEAD on and the ball bounced back and hit the glass. Really?

Just read flipper setting suggestion and will give that a shot.

#929 4 years ago

Does anyone believe in mylar on the area the ball drains? Is it necessary?

2 weeks later
#1154 4 years ago

I installed the wire fix last night per the instructions. I noticed it puts a lot of pressure on the playfield near the metal post. Should we be concerned that will damage the clear or is it fine because it won't really move?

#1192 4 years ago

Where do you get cling vinyl?

#1194 4 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Where you get everything: Amazon.
Or probably a Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc if you are determined to burn a little gas
Stuff works well... thick, not that noticeable and easily lifted out if you eventually go with a Cliffy's or use mylar down the road.

Thanks. I put the metal cliffy under where the ball shoots out and I put the metal part on the right side of the lane (against the outside wall) but I'm wondering if I need something in the lane itself. Would this stuff work for that application?

#1199 4 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

You want this piece from cliffy. This is before i repaired the shooter lane and installed the left cliffy.

Thanks. I don't have that bottom part - just the bigger piece on the right. Guess I have more stuff to buy! :-p

1 month later
#1357 4 years ago

Stupid question - the premium didn't come with the shaker motor? I have a Pro so I had to add mine... but I used the "official" one.

#1360 4 years ago
Quoted from Bing_Party:

Some distributors offer the shaker motor with the premium and they install it thats why you see a lot of folks with the shaker

Ahhhh... That is probably why I thought I knew someone that had it "included".

#1364 4 years ago

You should be able to look at the schematics and determine which pin in the shaker port is power and which is ground. I would do that and test it for voltage. Not sure if it pushes voltage 100% of the time (doubt it) so you'll need to utilize test mode to see if voltage is being pushed.

That will tell you whether you have a game problem or a motor problem.

3 weeks later
#1509 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

ok thanks. I prob will make the switch.
I also just bought cliffys for the shooter lane but after reading instructions it seems like more work than I was expecting. drilling a hole?

I just used the hole the leveler is in so I didn't have to drill anything. My leveler is now "off" so I don't use it to level the game.

1 week later
#1567 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I've seen some folks have asked about how the stern side rails attach and look. Today I found a photo of the rails installed.
I can see there are extra screw holes beyond the factory screw holes but they appear optional. If anyone has installed these rails, I would love to see some hi res photos and your opinion of the rails.

I thought of those but the price was too high in my humble opinion. I'm not a fan of mods on games because most look horrible and tacky but those Stern side rails looked really cool. I just thought they were too much money for what they were.

I opted instead for regular lollipop rails which I think cost me $60 and protect the cabinet which was my primary concern.

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#1571 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

They look great! May I ask where you bought them?

Pinball life!

#1572 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

if its for HUO, with no "moding" aim, 2 pieces of mylar round the flipper buttons is more than enough, and working perfect

Yah - I debated this for awhile (even bought flipper button mylar cut outs) and ultimately felt the rails were "more reversible" if I kept the originals. I'll fully admit to being irrational in this regard but the rails help my OCD issues. Lol.

1 week later
#1649 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Yes, I did ball drain and shooter lane, as well as a spot on the top ball arc, and two spots in front of 2x and 3x, even if there was factory, to help cushion the reflection from air balls going back down.
I've used removable mylar, and pulled up shooter lane once to see wear after 200 plays.
All good, job done, although if one is concerned
about chipping, cliff is better.
I'm happy in home use knowing the usage

When you pulled it up to check did you use freeze spray or was everything so new and waxed that it came right up?

I've been using cling vinyl as recommended by another pinside member but I used Mylar in another spot first and wanted to pull it up.

#1666 4 years ago

If you haven't soldered in awhile put something under your work area so excess solder doesn't fall into your cabinet or down to other parts if you have it upright. I'm an average solder person on a good day (can do monitor cap kits and simple wires) and I find I often drip solder when working under a playfield when reheating an old connection giving me trouble. Be mindful of what is directly below you and position the playfield accordingly.

Granted - new game new solder should flow easily unless you have issues the previous poster mentioned about the brass switches - but better safe than sorry no matter what!

#1794 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I figure it is minimal. Worst case, put a post pin in the hole. You'd never know it wasn't supposed to be there.
But that rail does the trick. Nicely.

I admire that you saw a problem and fixed it to make your game more fun to you. I wouldn't have the guts for a mod like that.

#1828 4 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Air Ball Protector update.
As Stern is now using a new playfield, and Premiums are flying out,
I am hearing, as are others of a few games, that airballs may still occur on the 2X.
A couple people have sent in pictures, and in some cases the photo and coverage matches my game,
but this table, is still producing some airballs.
On the opposite side, are a pile of emails saying it works fine.
From all my communication, its somewhere between 3%-8% of games, are assembled differently enough
where the plastic is not stopping the 2x.
Obviously, it would be nice if there was 100% consistency in a Stern assembly, but this is not needed from their perspective.
On the side of offering a flat piece of plastic, I can offer help with suggestions how to gain a few mm, or lose a few, raise slimers boom, or repeat back what others have discovered...either bending the target forward, or shimming, as well as Additional sticky foam behind, to help, deflect and absorb.
What I know cant happen, is I have no way of knowing what game you have, nor how this will perform.
Some people may get a game where this will only help 65%-75%.
I cant make another, without finding one of these deviate games, getting it my house for a week, test protos, and start the process all over. Even if the game aspect happened, Ill be honest, I tried to get this to everyone
at the lowest price, and I simply dont have 30 plus hours to make one, that fixes the exception, and possibly raise closer to 100%.
With this in mind, mine, LSOG, or Pingraffix, perhaps others, Ill speak for them by saying we cant guarantee
our flat plastic, will fix Sterns mistake 100%....and any vendor depending on their numbers might see a
slightly different variance.
For me, I can only try to offer the best, fastest, and cheapest, but cant guarantee 100%.
If you feel you need a 100% guarantee, please chat with everyone you need to.
I will gladly refund your money with a return, if you are not happy, but I must stop an email
that comes in saying I must pay for return shipping...(its shipped free to you), or refund 100%
without a return. I have only this one item, and am not in business with many other products
or higher prices, to build in free shipping out, and free return shipping.
Im so sorry to those who expect this. I too would truly love if Walmart paid for my return shipping or gas.
Should someone find 100% perfection, please share...but so far, 90% + at this time is the best I can get.

Mine is working great on my pro.

#1837 4 years ago
Quoted from calprog:

First Stern issue on gble. Half my lights are flickering and out. Stern thinks thinks I have the short issue above left scoop. I put double sided tape and still not corrected. They think I may have burnt it my board. For a new game this really sucks. What a poorly built game! The worst one yet. Looks like I will need a tech to look at this issue. The game is unplugged and I did not play over the holiday weekend. Played Tales from the Crypt mostly. A great game for sure!

Did you put the tape on before or after you noticed the issue? Just curious...

I hope Stern makes it right for you.

#1897 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I won't be going overboard any time soon. Cliffys are a good idea for the anal 10% crowd, and do the job nicely.
Ain't no way the holes i put in my playfield will contribute to wear. But you're right - many guys go way overboard to preserve their game. Here's a thought: Buy two machines, put one in mothballs never to see the light of day. Then play the hell out of the other one. You will seriously enjoy playing the game, and all the while, the mothballed game will gain equity. Well, we all know they don't actually gain equity. If you can break even after 15 years with a NIB machine, you're doing better than 99% of us.
I play my games pretty much normally, however, I take the tilt bob off, and use nylon glides for feet, so I get pretty rough with them. But in the end, they survive beautifully. Still they are there to play and enjoy. And if I need to "modify" it to enjoy it more, so be it. When I decide to sell any of them, I'll likely get top dollar for them regardless of what I do to make them more playable because I keep 'em nice.
None of us are in this home game scene to profit. The value you get from your game is from playing and enjoying it. And the routed, worn out game owners don't care; they're the ones who will make out in the long run.

I really agree with you here. Even though I can be an anal nut bag about stuff (I put in lollipop rails because people's dirty hands marking up my artwork bothered me) but I do try to make sure I enjoy playing the games. This game isn't an investment for me. I have a 401k like a normal responsible person. Resale value isn't as important as actually enjoying my game.

I wouldn't drill my playfield like you did - but I admire how you made your game more fun for you. Screw everyone else.

I do laugh at the fact that some people who are willing to give you a hard time about what you did are the same people who put every tacky crappy light bulb mod on their machines they can think of ... not realizing that we all do whatever makes us happy and that's a good thing.

#1933 3 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Is there any way to turn the volume totally off ?? Mine is loud as heck at just 8 or 9 and 0 still has volume ... I use the pinnovators should have bought the new one with mute

At zero mine has no volume at all. I didn't modify it though.

#1939 3 years ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

Weird what code level are you running ?? It was like this before I added the pinnovators...mind you it's very low but there is volume.
The I'm scared scream is still way loud at 0 though

I haven't turned it to zero since buying (Code 1.05). I now run 1.11 and tried it again and I have a touch of volume.

Before anyone speculates that the code matters - I will say the volume was so low I can imagine it was possible with the other stuff in my game room that I had sound even on 1.05 but it was too faint. Sorry for any confusion.

1 month later
#2247 3 years ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

Here's a new one, I think. My Nunzio Scoleri target doesn't seem to be popping up with his brother but when I ran a test it worked just fine. Any ideas why it wouldn't pop up during play?

I have seen modes where only one is up and they alternate. The exact second one goes down the other comes up. Not saying that is your issue but thought I'd point it out. Does anyone know what triggers this behavior versus having both up and being able to knock both down?

7 months later
#3449 3 years ago

Think about it guys - if you didn't have something to blame Stern over (dust on the game - or a dimple on the play field - or the game being too loud) what would the internet be for?

3 months later
#3583 3 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

I have an interesting thing happening with the Scoleri targets. I noticed weirdness during gameplay, so I went into diagnostics menu. The left target goes up fine, but does not go down (all I hear is clicking). The right target goes down fine, but only stays up maybe once out of every 4 times.
I do have the pinball life spring fix installed.
Any ideas?

For what it is worth - I had similar issue - and eventually my ledge plastic broke. I replaced plastic and put stock springs back. I don’t know for sure if the aftermarket springs caused the plastic to break but they didn’t make the targets drop that much better than the originals so I went back to the originals with a few links dropped down instead. The Scolari targets just suck - period. Huge flaw in this game IMO.

#3586 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I agree. That's why I normally leave mine turned off.

When mine were broken and turned off I have to admit I kind of liked the game better. Maybe I should make it permanent.

#3590 3 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I did install the new motor control board, but it no affect on slimer rotating fully clockwise and then stopping. Chas asked if I could ground the red/white and red/grey connection on the node8 board. This did cause slimer to rotate forward and backward confirming the motor is working. Next, he had me swap node8 and node9 boards as they are the same as long as you update the dip switches. This was to see if the node board is bad. The result was the same and slimer doesn't return home. Awaiting more debug instructions.

That is frustrating but it sounds like they are trying hard to help at least!

#3604 3 years ago
Quoted from verbekecobra:

I just bought a GB pro, and I have been looking at all of the threads of issues. Is there a list of mod's I should do day one? I say the list for the LE, but I know the list would be different for my machine. I've bought Cliffy's, and the Williams leg plates, but I want to do everything I can.
If this is the wrong thread for this, I apologize in advance.

Was the Pro new? Because one or two of the fixes won’t apply to a new one recently manufacturered.

1 month later
#3662 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

One of my ledges broke early on. Stern sent me a new one, but it looks like they’ve continued to cheap out on that part.

I had this issue as well... fairly easy fix but I wondered why the part was so thin in the area it broke.

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