(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread

By exflexer

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 4,352 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by vireland
  • Topic is favorited by 143 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (3 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #709 Videos of the Pinballlife outlane plastics in use for GB Posted by Pinzzz (3 years ago)

Post #876 tatman9999 photos of his Titan Rubbers in green on GB Posted by tatman9999 (3 years ago)

Post #1034 Photos of mismatched flipper side rails installed on factory game Posted by Trekkie1978 (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2488 2 years ago

This is vinyl. Is that similar to Mylar? How long can you leave it on for? You just cut it with a sissor?

1 month later
#2841 2 years ago

I was wondering why mine wasnt registering.

I got a few airballs after about 40 plays and I have dimples in my PF already. Is that supposed to happen or is it due to a low quality clearcoat on these things?

I dont want what else to do to limit the airballs. I already have the airball plastic,

#2846 2 years ago

may have to switch out to plastic balls.

#2849 2 years ago

Can someone tell me what 7 Degrees include is on this machine. I trying using my digital angle finder on my PF and I get different readings from the top of the PF vs the bottom. What is the bubble level on the machine supposed to look like at 7 degrees?

#2852 2 years ago

So then why is my pf reading .6 degree different from top to bottom ? Is the pf warped from the factory?

#2854 2 years ago

So what incline number do I go off of? Top or bottom of pf?

#2875 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

Best bet for rough plunges is to replace the springs for both the manual plunger and auto plunger.
Easy and cheap. Did this the first week I had it.

I feel like the plunger itself feels kind of sluggish on my manual plunges. Whats the part number for each spring?

#2887 2 years ago

I installed that centerpost mod from pinball life and I am disappointing. The ball never seems to hit it and bounce back up. It just ricochets off to the side and drains. Anyone else have better luck with it?

#2892 2 years ago

The post is rock solid. I didnt even bother putting the smaller black or green silicon post rubber that came with it and instead, went straight for the 7/16" OD mini post rubber i got from PBL - PBL-700-0004-00-XX. See pic.

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#2893 2 years ago

Let me clarify one thing. The post is solid, the fact the the post is floating and connected to a piece of plastic that has has not support in the center are causing some flex. If I manually drop the ball on it dead center i does bounce back but from any other angle even the slightest variance it just goes off to the side,. I checked my machine and it seems level left to right. The ball never drains directly down the middle it always veers slightly to the left of right. Never one side. Any ideas?

On a positive note I just installed a lockdown lever and corresponding lockdown bar. I couldnt stand those God awful latches!

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#2894 2 years ago

I am on a roll and have more to tell and more to ask.

I installed the Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly - Cabinet Mounting part #500-6587-06-TL picked up a PBL. On SPIKE games apparently you can just plug the wires that are hanging from the node board. They hooked up same way as the start button. No Diode needed to be solider in like SAM machines. You also have to go into service mode and enable Competition mode for the button to flash.

I do have two more questions.

1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out? Do you have to gap them? Do I have to disassemble a lot to get to them? Any tips would help.
2) I attached a picture of my shooter rod plate. It looks way off center based on the artwork. There are three Philips screws and two hex head that hold the plate and shooter in place. It doesn't look like there is any adjustment to re position other than taking the screws out and retapping them in the wood. I am not sure if I moved the position of the shooter plate it wouldn't infact throw off the shooter alignment and geometry. It's ridiculous they let things like this leave the factory this way. Please advise what I should do.

P.S. I will be gluing and clamping the left side of the cabinet on Sunday when my dad brings over his clamps.

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#2896 2 years ago

What is that piece of metal in between the wood? Looks like someone tried to repair the joint. I am wondering if that metal shim made the splits worse?

#2903 2 years ago

I have those non skid rubber feet on my legs, but my crack was there before I installed them. I purchased the Harbor fright model for $120 with a super coupon and then used a pipe bender from homedepot(which i promptly returned after completing the bend)


Art or Chuck, Any response to my questions about the flipper swap, plunger plate and center post?

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#2920 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

why do you have those plastic leg pieces of crap on your game, when the game comes with the standoff kind already installed?

What do you mean the games comes with the standoff Kind? Should I not use them? I have the felt underneath.

#2927 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

He is referring to the cabinet protectors that come pre-installed from the factory. They create a space between the leg and the cabinet so the leg doesn't actually touch the cabinet. These make the kind of protectors you are using unnecessary. Stern started using these a while back. I think AC/DC may have been the first game to have them, and they've been on every game since.

What does it look like? I didnt notice any protectors on the cab or legs. I assume the protecor is built into the cab? I am planning on taking the left leg off. installing L brackets, and the W/B inner metal leg bracket Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
pbl_01-11400-1 , putting in Gorilla wood glue in the corner joint and clamping it shut to hopefully fix my splitting cab. I also ordered some 2 3/4 inch black powdercoated bolts (Data East/Sega/Stern Extended Black Leg Bolt - 2-3/4"
231-5001-01B_XL ) and PinGuard Nylon Leg and Bolt Protector (pg_nylon) all from Pinball Life.

I will take pictures during and after the repair. I really would hate to have to have Stern send me a new cab and swap it out.
All this money spent to fix a problem that should have happen in the first place.

#2928 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Anyone else wish the OP could simply change the title of this thread to "GB issue AND resolution thread".
Very helpful tips here and given the game is now nearly a year into release, I find the current title a bit misleading to the game overall at this point.
Just an opinion.

What would be good is if we start a new thread and in the first post it lists out all the issues and what the resolutions are. If you guys want to keep this thread going then maybe a master issues post stated in the next few posts with all the issues and then link it back to the Topic Index so people can find it easily and check on any updates.

#2949 2 years ago

I recommend you use Goo Gone - 12 oz Spray Gel to get rid of the residue. Spray it on a paper towel or microfiber cloth rub in. Let it soak for 1-2 mins then take a dry cloth and get all the goo Gone off. Rinse and repeat until all glue is off and play field is bone dry.

#2950 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I bought metal hex spacers from pinball life to fix right ramp and I got both 1-5/8 and 1-3/4. Both look bigger than I thought. Did I get the wrong size?

I used the 1 3/4 as the 1 5/8 made the ramp seem too low. If you are concern the hex spacer isnt the right size measure it with a ruler.

#2953 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Those should both be shorter than the one that came on the game. Are they not?

Yes by 1/2 inch or more.

#2954 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Not really sure but that's prob b/c I still don't understand where the original one is! I'll need to look at it again. Thanks for confirming I got the right ones.

I assume you have a premium? Its the ramp on the right side of the PF. It has a plastic U turn ramp connected to a metal wire ramp that puts the ball behind the left slingshot. The standoff is located right underneath the switch where the plastic and meets the metal wire ramp.

I am not home so I cant post a pic. Chuck posted a pic earlier in the thread.

#3022 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.

trim the 2 branches off to look like this

Does this mean you can eliminate art's airball protector or it works in conjunction with it? I still get airball that richot off the airball protector.

1 week later
#3080 2 years ago

You should have gotten a part manual with your machine. It has an exploded view of this assembly that's shows how it gets assembled. I had to reference it after I install the pink captive balls.

1 week later
#3108 2 years ago

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.

I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

#3126 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Same here, but I installed the wedges to the front of the target and not the back. This retained the full movement of the target contact stroke, the other way required a hard strike to register a hit

Can you post a pic of how you installed?

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