Ghostbuster Issue Thread

This is vinyl. Is that similar to Mylar? How long can you leave it on for? You just cut it with a sissor?

I was wondering why mine wasnt registering.

I got a few airballs after about 40 plays and I have dimples in my PF already. Is that supposed to happen or is it due to a low quality clearcoat on these things?

I dont want what else to do to limit the airballs. I already have the airball plastic,

may have to switch out to plastic balls.

Can someone tell me what 7 Degrees include is on this machine. I trying using my digital angle finder on my PF and I get different readings from the top of the PF vs the bottom. What is the bubble level on the machine supposed to look like at 7 degrees?

So then why is my pf reading .6 degree different from top to bottom ? Is the pf warped from the factory?

So what incline number do I go off of? Top or bottom of pf?

I feel like the plunger itself feels kind of sluggish on my manual plunges. Whats the part number for each spring?

I installed that centerpost mod from pinball life and I am disappointing. The ball never seems to hit it and bounce back up. It just ricochets off to the side and drains. Anyone else have better luck with it?

The post is rock solid. I didnt even bother putting the smaller black or green silicon post rubber that came with it and instead, went straight for the 7/16" OD mini post rubber i got from PBL - PBL-700-0004-00-XX. See pic.

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Let me clarify one thing. The post is solid, the fact the the post is floating and connected to a piece of plastic that has has not support in the center are causing some flex. If I manually drop the ball on it dead center i does bounce back but from any other angle even the slightest variance it just goes off to the side,. I checked my machine and it seems level left to right. The ball never drains directly down the middle it always veers slightly to the left of right. Never one side. Any ideas?

On a positive note I just installed a lockdown lever and corresponding lockdown bar. I couldnt stand those God awful latches!

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I am on a roll and have more to tell and more to ask.

I installed the Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly - Cabinet Mounting part #500-6587-06-TL picked up a PBL. On SPIKE games apparently you can just plug the wires that are hanging from the node board. They hooked up same way as the start button. No Diode needed to be solider in like SAM machines. You also have to go into service mode and enable Competition mode for the button to flash.

I do have two more questions.

1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out? Do you have to gap them? Do I have to disassemble a lot to get to them? Any tips would help.
2) I attached a picture of my shooter rod plate. It looks way off center based on the artwork. There are three Philips screws and two hex head that hold the plate and shooter in place. It doesn't look like there is any adjustment to re position other than taking the screws out and retapping them in the wood. I am not sure if I moved the position of the shooter plate it wouldn't infact throw off the shooter alignment and geometry. It's ridiculous they let things like this leave the factory this way. Please advise what I should do.

P.S. I will be gluing and clamping the left side of the cabinet on Sunday when my dad brings over his clamps.

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What is that piece of metal in between the wood? Looks like someone tried to repair the joint. I am wondering if that metal shim made the splits worse?

I have those non skid rubber feet on my legs, but my crack was there before I installed them. I purchased the Harbor fright model for $120 with a super coupon and then used a pipe bender from homedepot(which i promptly returned after completing the bend)

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html

Art or Chuck, Any response to my questions about the flipper swap, plunger plate and center post?

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What do you mean the games comes with the standoff Kind? Should I not use them? I have the felt underneath.

What does it look like? I didnt notice any protectors on the cab or legs. I assume the protecor is built into the cab? I am planning on taking the left leg off. installing L brackets, and the W/B inner metal leg bracket Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
pbl_01-11400-1 , putting in Gorilla wood glue in the corner joint and clamping it shut to hopefully fix my splitting cab. I also ordered some 2 3/4 inch black powdercoated bolts (Data East/Sega/Stern Extended Black Leg Bolt - 2-3/4"
231-5001-01B_XL ) and PinGuard Nylon Leg and Bolt Protector (pg_nylon) all from Pinball Life.

I will take pictures during and after the repair. I really would hate to have to have Stern send me a new cab and swap it out.
All this money spent to fix a problem that should have happen in the first place.

What would be good is if we start a new thread and in the first post it lists out all the issues and what the resolutions are. If you guys want to keep this thread going then maybe a master issues post stated in the next few posts with all the issues and then link it back to the Topic Index so people can find it easily and check on any updates.

I recommend you use Goo Gone - 12 oz Spray Gel to get rid of the residue. Spray it on a paper towel or microfiber cloth rub in. Let it soak for 1-2 mins then take a dry cloth and get all the goo Gone off. Rinse and repeat until all glue is off and play field is bone dry.

I used the 1 3/4 as the 1 5/8 made the ramp seem too low. If you are concern the hex spacer isnt the right size measure it with a ruler.

Yes by 1/2 inch or more.

I assume you have a premium? Its the ramp on the right side of the PF. It has a plastic U turn ramp connected to a metal wire ramp that puts the ball behind the left slingshot. The standoff is located right underneath the switch where the plastic and meets the metal wire ramp.

I am not home so I cant post a pic. Chuck posted a pic earlier in the thread.

Does this mean you can eliminate art's airball protector or it works in conjunction with it? I still get airball that richot off the airball protector.

You should have gotten a part manual with your machine. It has an exploded view of this assembly that's shows how it gets assembled. I had to reference it after I install the pink captive balls.

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.

I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

Can you post a pic of how you installed?