When I first saw the new design I thought, "hmm not a bad hack by a pinsider to fix an issue". Then I read that's how it comes from the factory? That's ugly as sin. My suggestion to help hide it somewhat would be to use some black heat shrink over the blade connector and move it up as far as you can to the slimer wire so that it still functions. Then shrink it. At least that would help mask most of it. Honestly who uses a red connector on an all black part??

Loving this game so far but those gozer SDTM drains are for the birds... Has anyone ever added a 1 way gate up there to allow the ball to pass to the gozer target, but feed the return ball to the pops?

I'd have to slide it out the door and down the street to save those drains...

Not a fan of the look. I honestly don't mind the gap too much. It's just those all too often center drains from Gozer.

To anyone that has repaired the shooter lane... There are areas of my shooter lane that the clear has chipped away and some areas where the clear isn't chipped, but you can tell it has delaminated ( appears milky) from the wood. Whats the procedure to fix those areas? Should I cut out the delaminated area or just leave it as is and repair the bare spots? I have Cliffy's on order but they are about 3 months out, so my intention is to repair what I can and put some mylar down in the meantime.

That was my intent, but I want to repaired the existing damage first. I have some chipped areas that the cliffy will not cover. I'd like to get it out of the way so when the cliffys arrive I can just put them on. Not wait like 7 days for the clear to cure.

+/- 900 plays...Shame *ding ding*

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Can you adjust the coil power in the audits?

Starting to have a wired issue here. The face of my 2x stand up target has started to rotate slightly towards the left loop. As a result plugged balls ( here and there) clip the top corner of the target throwing off the balls trajectory.

I've already tried bending it back, but it eventually works it's way out of wack again. Anyone else experience this?

One User created target wedges to pitch the targets forward. The same user i believe designed a new target bracket with the pitch built in AND also raised the target off the field a bit more to keep the ball from striking the rivet. Both of these parts are available via shapeways. I have never really seen anything documenting how these solutions have worked out over time. I would love to know before dropping $30 on 2 brackets.

So to clarify this design is meant to raise the target to match the height and pitch of Bally / Williams targets, right? That being said if you were to raise them even higher, say and additional 1-2mm, could that potentially eliminate the air balls all together?

So last night after a few scotches and a frustrating night at my GB, I got to thinking about the possibility of elongating the holes (essentially making a slot) for the flippers so that the mechs could be dropped lower to an acceptable flipper gap. Then on the under side rotate the mech slightly so that you have 2 sets of hole patterns ( 1 stock, 1 modified). This way you could use the original flippers and not those embarrassing carrots. Even if I decided to revert back to the original gap, the flipper bats would cover the larger hole for the most part. Anyone thought of or attempted to do this before? Were talking what a 1/8" notch on both sides max? I know I know #playbetter....

Decided to pull the trigger and purchase the Swinks standup target brackets. Can't watch to try them out !

That's great to hear. Personally I've been planning on covering the entire ramp with a piece of plastic that has some sort of graphics on it. That huge, plaine, stainless steel ramp is a bit of an eye sore on an otherwise beautiful game.

I wind up adjusting my stance when I get SFMB so the lights aren't hitting my in the eyes. I crotch down to about the height of 7 year old and play the mode. It's helped tremendously. Silly, but it works.

So installed my Swinks brackets the other day. And had plenty of shots ( bricks mostly ) to the stand ups. Not even a hop from the ball ! Trust in Swinks. Put those brackets in and get that ugly piece of plastic out ! Best "mod" you can buy.

Correct bought just the brackets.

Why put a piece of anything in there? Just adjust the VUK power so that it sends the ball to the left flipper.

The cable should be easy enough to replace. Kind of looks like bike brake line cable. Check out McMaster Carr. Nice selection of parts you don't see every day. Do you have a picture of where it's actually broken?

In all honesty you should deduct the cost of the full slimer part at least. The game is unplayable without it. Just out of curiosity, how did he mange to break a stranded cable??

I believe you need to angle the front of the plastic up so that it foces the ball down to the field. Plastic should be made out of polycarbonate or PTEG to prevent breakage.

Used to have this same issue...
Remove the screw holding the gate in place.
Position the gate so that the alignment tab is on the other side of the captive ball assembly
Reinsert the screw and tighten

Doing this will position the gate further into the orbit lane which in turn will force balls out of the pops into the guide rail about 99%. You still get the odd softly hit ball that misses both the gate and the ball guide, but it is much less frequent (if at all).