Ghostbuster Issue Thread

Thanks for the screw info, I got wedges too but havent gotten around to installing. you just saved me one step, figuring out which screws to buy.

Yup, mine are adjusted as well and I can backhand the left ramp easily.

i'm going to go ahead and try the shorter hex spacer for the right ramp. anyone happen to have the PN or link on marco or PBL handy?

Thanks!

Question:

One thing that annoys me; callouts are way louder than the music/sound effects. I get why this is needed in a noisy environment, but not in a HUO one.

I see in the GB adjustments, there is Music Attenuation and Voice Attenuation. My assumption is that I can play around with this to help level things out a bit? Just not sure if I need to bump or reduce to help. Figured I would ask before trial and error time.

ok, thank you!! now i know that I am not crazy, lol. I was decreasing the voice one and increasing the music one and wondering why it seemed to be getting worse. haha.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=20-9592

i use translucent green super bands, they work fine normal size.

while your swapping them out, don't have them "droop" down as they are now.

does not solve the SDTM's but helps and makes it more playable IMHO (this plus a little nudge and i rarely drain SDTM)

If you combine with lining them up (vs droopy) it definitely makes a diff to me at least (and those that have played my machine have noticed as well)

you will still get SDTM's, but you have much better of a fighting chance.

I went with the same superbands, but black bats, I plan to put the sticker (trap yellow/black lines) over it.

I'm sure it will look great, just line them up with the lanes instead of droopy and between the two you will be fine.

regarding the shorter hex post for the right ramp, someone graciously gave me the link, but i forgot the size. doh:

this was the link

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

but largest is 7/8"s, too short i assume? pinside search tells me the size should be 1-5/8" which would be:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=359

just need a sanity check b4 ordering, it is one of the last remaining annoyances i'd like to get rid of.

Good idea (Appreciate the share), I may have to cut something like that too. Doesnt happen very often for me but when it does its really annoying.

Just look at the condition, if its split or going to split, you should see it in the corners there.

I had this EXACT same problem. Pull up your PF so that it is resting against the backbox. At the very bottom adjacent to the slimer moter is the "motor control board" (I forget exactly what its called, but the wires to the motor will go there). In my case, there is a molex connector that plugs in to the bottom that is part of the big wire harness going around the bottom there, mine pulled out and exhibited the exact same behavior as yours. Check and see if you have a plug loose our pulled out back there.

Strange issue came up last night. Game was acting weird (could not get a mode to start even after bashing the ghost target), after the game, I noticed something else odd: The Nunzio Scoleri insert was staying lit all the time.

Powered the game down, powered the game up. Same issue with the Scoleri insert (but could start modes fine playing a game)

Ran through all the lights in test mode, everything looks fine. The Nunzio insert pulses (like the others in test) but just stays on before and after.

Raised the PF and found the LED. + side is brown-blue, I followed that to CN4 on Node 8C. No shorts that I can see, the wire looks solid, nothing loose.

Looks like Node 9 is what controls that lamp (and the ghost target). Wondering if that board is F'd up. Just reached out to stern support so will wait to see what I hear back.

Mine wasnt working once either (though a prem) but then I noticed that one of the molex connectors on that motor control board had popped off. Although you mentioned the LED's are on, I'd check to make sure all the connections are there (and that the wire harness around it doesnt have a connector just hanging around)

If lock is lit, the diverter should pop down and send it in to the lock when you make that shot. sounds like something is wonky there. You should see it in the subway, I'd check it to make sure it is operating/firing.

I'm going to try the shapeways brackets. I have the modfather airball protector and while I have no issue with the look of it, it's treating the result not stopping the cause. If the new bracket cuts down 90% of the airballs I will take it.

^^ This

a buddy with a GB prem had the same issue and replaced the scoop protectors with real cliffy's

My originals have been fine though.