(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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  • 4,357 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Rager170
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Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Opening post with OP's index of topics Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #11 Photos of original slimer design Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #426 Images showing the redesigned Slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #430 Pro manual updated to reflect the new slimer mech Posted by kpg (3 years ago)

Post #528 Photos of the Pinball Universe kit installed on GB Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #565 Link to Pinball Universe Upgrade kit (Germany) Posted by sirlonzelot (3 years ago)

Post #630 GB 1.05 code posted and readme details! Posted by PinB (3 years ago)

Post #662 Link to Pinballlife's alt springs for the Scoleri brothers targets Posted by exflexer (3 years ago)

Post #709 Videos of the Pinballlife outlane plastics in use for GB Posted by Pinzzz (3 years ago)

Post #876 tatman9999 photos of his Titan Rubbers in green on GB Posted by tatman9999 (3 years ago)

Post #1034 Photos of mismatched flipper side rails installed on factory game Posted by Trekkie1978 (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3109 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.
I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

Thanks for the screw info, I got wedges too but havent gotten around to installing. you just saved me one step, figuring out which screws to buy.

1 week later
#3163 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

making normal alignment, it you can backhand with power. Hell, if i'm fast enough I can backhand the librarian scoop. that's a great feeling.

Yup, mine are adjusted as well and I can backhand the left ramp easily.

#3204 2 years ago

i'm going to go ahead and try the shorter hex spacer for the right ramp. anyone happen to have the PN or link on marco or PBL handy?

#3220 2 years ago

Question:

One thing that annoys me; callouts are way louder than the music/sound effects. I get why this is needed in a noisy environment, but not in a HUO one.

I see in the GB adjustments, there is Music Attenuation and Voice Attenuation. My assumption is that I can play around with this to help level things out a bit? Just not sure if I need to bump or reduce to help. Figured I would ask before trial and error time.

#3229 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's the opposite. For the attenuations, larger number makes it quieter and vice-versa. I have no idea why they just don't call it "level" or "volume" and have it work in a NORMAL way that everyone knows - bigger number is louder, smaller is softer, but they didn't do that.

ok, thank you!! now i know that I am not crazy, lol. I was decreasing the voice one and increasing the music one and wondering why it seemed to be getting worse. haha.

1 week later
#3277 2 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Can someone give me a link to the flipper bats that are supposedly a little longer? I think I want to purchase a set as the SDTM is driving me nuts! Also, would I need different rubbers to put over the longer bats? If so, could I trouble someone for links to those as well? Thank you!!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=20-9592

i use translucent green super bands, they work fine normal size.

while your swapping them out, don't have them "droop" down as they are now.

does not solve the SDTM's but helps and makes it more playable IMHO (this plus a little nudge and i rarely drain SDTM)

#3286 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I've looked at several standard flippers and compared to the carrots at Marco. Each is only 9/64" or 3.5mm longer .
Does this tiny amount really make a noticeable difference?

If you combine with lining them up (vs droopy) it definitely makes a diff to me at least (and those that have played my machine have noticed as well)

you will still get SDTM's, but you have much better of a fighting chance.

#3296 2 years ago
Quoted from cscmtp:

Bought the carrot bats (blue) from Marco today with the Green Translucent Super Bands. Think that would look good everyone? I just hope that tiny extra length helps me save some of those dreaded SDTM shots that happen way too often

I went with the same superbands, but black bats, I plan to put the sticker (trap yellow/black lines) over it.

I'm sure it will look great, just line them up with the lanes instead of droopy and between the two you will be fine.

2 weeks later
#3384 2 years ago

regarding the shorter hex post for the right ramp, someone graciously gave me the link, but i forgot the size. doh:

this was the link

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

but largest is 7/8"s, too short i assume? pinside search tells me the size should be 1-5/8" which would be:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=359

just need a sanity check b4 ordering, it is one of the last remaining annoyances i'd like to get rid of.

2 months later
#3473 2 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Sure, you need some spacers to install it.

Good idea (Appreciate the share), I may have to cut something like that too. Doesnt happen very often for me but when it does its really annoying.

1 month later
#3517 2 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I was wondering how you can tell you have a good cabinet (no risk for it to split) when you want to buy a huo ghostbuster.
From what build date was this covered at Stern or what did they change?
I now star wars (le?) has a corner bracket and the stronger leg plates), but how about this title?

Just look at the condition, if its split or going to split, you should see it in the corners there.

2 weeks later
#3552 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

Howdy all.. I have a strange problem with my LE. I had a new playfield fitted 5 months ago and put 50 games on it with no issues.
So after not playing it for 2 or so months fired it up and all is well until Slimer (ghost target) is hit. The machine locks up and the sound starts cutting out then the machine resets.
Slimer does not work (swing out) in test. I have disabled Slimer and no resets.
I have checked all the wiring and plugs, all o.k
So.. is this a node board issue?
Has anyone had this happen to thier machine?
Thanks in advance. 

I had this EXACT same problem. Pull up your PF so that it is resting against the backbox. At the very bottom adjacent to the slimer moter is the "motor control board" (I forget exactly what its called, but the wires to the motor will go there). In my case, there is a molex connector that plugs in to the bottom that is part of the big wire harness going around the bottom there, mine pulled out and exhibited the exact same behavior as yours. Check and see if you have a plug loose our pulled out back there.

6 months later
#3949 1 year ago

Strange issue came up last night. Game was acting weird (could not get a mode to start even after bashing the ghost target), after the game, I noticed something else odd: The Nunzio Scoleri insert was staying lit all the time.

Powered the game down, powered the game up. Same issue with the Scoleri insert (but could start modes fine playing a game)

Ran through all the lights in test mode, everything looks fine. The Nunzio insert pulses (like the others in test) but just stays on before and after.

Raised the PF and found the LED. + side is brown-blue, I followed that to CN4 on Node 8C. No shorts that I can see, the wire looks solid, nothing loose.

Looks like Node 9 is what controls that lamp (and the ghost target). Wondering if that board is F'd up. Just reached out to stern support so will wait to see what I hear back.

#3951 1 year ago
Quoted from silver_spinner:

Has anyone had trouble with slimer not going up or down? Won't work in test either. GB pro.
The little board the slimer motor wires go to has a green led and a red led on.

Mine wasnt working once either (though a prem) but then I noticed that one of the molex connectors on that motor control board had popped off. Although you mentioned the LED's are on, I'd check to make sure all the connections are there (and that the wire harness around it doesnt have a connector just hanging around)

#3953 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Picked up an LE over the weekend. Had a couple of minor, but common issues.
Left scoop shoots down the middle. Added some weather stripping along left side of scoop, shoots to right flipper now!
Right flipper eos giving tech alert. Regapped switch at flipper mech, fixed!
Lots and lots of air balls. Ordered some inlane/outlane and left ramp airball protectors.
One thing I’m not sure about. When the ball goes into the right subway, I can see it rocking back and forth in the subway, then it drops into the hole and ejects. Is this what it’s supposed to do? Seems to slow the game down by rocking like that.

If lock is lit, the diverter should pop down and send it in to the lock when you make that shot. sounds like something is wonky there. You should see it in the subway, I'd check it to make sure it is operating/firing.

1 month later
#4009 1 year ago

I'm going to try the shapeways brackets. I have the modfather airball protector and while I have no issue with the look of it, it's treating the result not stopping the cause. If the new bracket cuts down 90% of the airballs I will take it.

2 weeks later
#4028 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

FYI I believe he needs “real cliffys” instead of the thin cheap Stern ones, I had same issue. Cliffys product is thicker.

^^ This

a buddy with a GB prem had the same issue and replaced the scoop protectors with real cliffy's

My originals have been fine though.

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