Ghostbuster Issue Thread

(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 15 days ago by HookedonPinonics
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There are 4250 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 85.
#4201 36 days ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Just received my NIB Ghostbusters and enjoying it thoroughly.
Im having a problem where the balls keep getting stuck in any of the pke 3 rollover lanes. The ball gets stuck right after the sensor at the bottom part. It happens fairly often (30% of games) and I have to shake it to set it free. Does anyone have suggestions on how to resolve?

Pitch of machine?

#4202 36 days ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Pitch of machine?

Its 6 degrees - Ill post a picture when I get home.

#4203 36 days ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Just received my NIB Ghostbusters and enjoying it thoroughly.
Im having a problem where the balls keep getting stuck in any of the pke 3 rollover lanes. The ball gets stuck right after the sensor at the bottom part. It happens fairly often (30% of games) and I have to shake it to set it free. Does anyone have suggestions on how to resolve?

Sounds like maybe the wrong rubber is on the bottom post of the rollovers, making it too tight for the ball to get through. Is the ball making contact with the sides at the bottom of the rollover lanes?

Also, do you have the game at 6.5-ish degree angle? If it's too flat it won't work right, either.

#4204 36 days ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Its 6 degrees - Ill post a picture when I get home.

Do 6.5 degree pitch first.

Then if no go look at rubbers.

#4205 35 days ago

Installed my own right Orbit protector to help prevent balls from hitting that bracket, which only happens on the auto launch and not the flipper shot to the right orbit. I shot a video of this, but video too large. This did not work for the auto launch as the ball hits the front piece of the plastic, broke also should have used something stronger, but it does not fix the nor prevent ball from hitting the ball gate as it hits the plastic protector

IMG-2687 (resized).jpeg
#4206 35 days ago

Now, my airball protector also broke into 2 pieces. So I decided to install the Swinks brackets.

Even with the airball protector my wife still experienced a lot of airballs.

#4207 35 days ago

The Swinks don't look like they have a 5 degree lean as you'll see in the pictures, but that's very hard to see with the naked eye.

#4208 35 days ago

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#4209 35 days ago

My wife has put about 50 games on GB Premium since I installed these and she said she doesn't recall any airballs taking place since I installed the Swinks target brackets. So I would say this is a great fix. This is the picture of them installed.

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#4210 35 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Installed my own right Orbit protector to help prevent balls from hitting that bracket, which only happens on the auto launch and not the flipper shot to the right orbit. I shot a video of this, but video too large. This did not work for the auto launch as the ball hits the front piece of the plastic, broke also should have used something stronger, but it does not fix the nor prevent ball from hitting the ball gate as it hits the plastic protector
[quoted image]

If you look at the one I sell which works the front edge is beveled to direct and keep the ball down.

Also I make all my protectors out of thicker PET-G (not acrylic). Acrylic eventually break - PET-G is nearly impossible to break).
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#4211 35 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Installed my own right Orbit protector to help prevent balls from hitting that bracket, which only happens on the auto launch and not the flipper shot to the right orbit. I shot a video of this, but video too large. This did not work for the auto launch as the ball hits the front piece of the plastic, broke also should have used something stronger, but it does not fix the nor prevent ball from hitting the ball gate as it hits the plastic protector
[quoted image]

Did you change the spring on the auto launcher to the heavy duty one?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-437

That in combination with a protector cured my issues.

#4212 35 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

My wife has put about 50 games on GB Premium since I installed these and she said she doesn't recall any airballs taking place since I installed the Swinks target brackets. So I would say this is a great fix. This is the picture of them installed.
[quoted image]

The only problem I noticed is you can have balls rocket off the ramp with the Swink's brackets, but it doesn't happen often. It's a great solution.

#4213 35 days ago

thanks for sharing 3pinballs

I am not sure how old your game is but it looks like Stern tried to fix the issue with bending the brackets to roughly 5 degrees - see below my v1 of the bracket on the lhs with the only difference with what is now available is the web as it was more to copy but since it is not pressed manufactured it isn't required.

As you can see with yours the angle is very similar to the swinks one which makes a small difference but the other major difference is the target slot height which I lowered by 2mm which effectively raises the target up 2mm. So when the ball hits the target the ball is now hitting below the target rivet and the stronger part of the target keeping the ball down. You will never remove totally the airballs as the target pan angle comes into play and that is cut into the game but it greatly removes them.

Thanks for support and giving them a try and glad it improved the game play.

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#4214 34 days ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Do 6.5 degree pitch first.
Then if no go look at rubbers.

Increasing the pitch corrected it. Thanks All!

#4215 34 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Installed my own right Orbit protector to help prevent balls from hitting that bracket, which only happens on the auto launch and not the flipper shot to the right orbit. I shot a video of this, but video too large. This did not work for the auto launch as the ball hits the front piece of the plastic, broke also should have used something stronger, but it does not fix the nor prevent ball from hitting the ball gate as it hits the plastic protector
[quoted image]

I believe you need to angle the front of the plastic up so that it foces the ball down to the field. Plastic should be made out of polycarbonate or PTEG to prevent breakage.

#4216 34 days ago

Does anybody’s Librarian screams extra louder than normal when she screams is that normal way with the new update? Also any help/directions how to replace flippers or how to fix them my flippers feel sloppy/slack? I would like them to feel crisp

#4217 34 days ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Does anybody’s Librarian screams extra louder than normal when she screams is that normal way with the new update? Also any help/directions how to replace flippers or how to fix them my flippers feel sloppy/slack? I would like them to feel crisp

A> I have no idea. That random librarian scream has been turned off since week one.
B> Were your flippers always sloppy-feeling, or did they get that way over time?

#4218 33 days ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Does anybody’s Librarian screams extra louder than normal when she screams is that normal way with the new update?

Are you talking about the random scare feature? If so, hell yes its louder than everything else and I freaking love it - especially when someone new is playing that doesn't expect it. Wish there were other scares in the game.

#4219 33 days ago

1:20 to 1:30 in new the Head to Head podcast sheds some light on the GB code. Long story short, "Are you a god" wasn't supposed to be there. Dwight now will have time to work on old code issues on his games once he is done with Munsters, because Stern now has 9 internal coders and 3 outside coders. Dwight is the last lead programmer to come off a project after all these new hires have come on, so he will have a lot of time to revisit code like Lyman has been able to do. Fingers crossed?

#4220 33 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

1:20 to 1:30 in new the Head to Head podcast sheds some light on the GB code. Long story short, "Are you a god" wasn't supposed to be there. Dwight now will have time to work on old code issues on his games once he is done with Munsters, because Stern now has 9 internal coders and 3 outside coders. Dwight is the last lead programmer to come off a project after all these new hires have come on, so he will have a lot of time to revisit code like Lyman has been able to do. Fingers crossed?

"If it wasn't buggy and it wasn't messy, it'd be complete." That's the problem. It IS a buggy mess. You can't wish it away.

#4221 33 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

1:20 to 1:30 in new the Head to Head podcast sheds some light on the GB code. Long story short, "Are you a god" wasn't supposed to be there. Dwight now will have time to work on old code issues on his games once he is done with Munsters, because Stern now has 9 internal coders and 3 outside coders. Dwight is the last lead programmer to come off a project after all these new hires have come on, so he will have a lot of time to revisit code like Lyman has been able to do. Fingers crossed?

Obviously we'll never know the truth, but the way he talked bout "Are you a god" makes me think he is just tying to say he isn't going to do anything. He says it wasn't supposed to be in version 1.0, which implies it was slated for a later release. He also talk about how it was just a thought and that it made it onto the instruction card when it wasn't intended to be a mode.. etc.. To me, that's more of Stern trying to weasel out of finishing the game, but I could be wrong.

Looking forward to an update..

#4222 33 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Obviously we'll never know the truth, but the way he talked bout "Are you a god" makes me think he is just tying to say he isn't going to do anything. He says it wasn't supposed to be in version 1.0, which implies it was slated for a later release. He also talk about how it was just a thought and that it made it onto the instruction card when it wasn't intended to be a mode.. etc.. To me, that's more of Stern trying to weasel out of finishing the game, but I could be wrong.

The ol' "as designed" party line.

#4223 32 days ago

What if TZ never had lost in the zone, GB needs some sort of ending. Even the shadow has a great ending.

#4224 30 days ago

Just made another run. Left side ramp and right side orbit protectors.

Shipping on Friday, let me know.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sale-ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protectors-1#post-4790705

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#4225 29 days ago

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

#4226 29 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

Are you getting lane hops (from the inlane to the outlane over the bar)? Have you closed up the posts all the way already? Picture of your lower PF would be helpful to see where you're at already.

#4227 28 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Are you getting lane hops (from the inlane to the outlane over the bar)? Have you closed up the posts all the way already? Picture of your lower PF would be helpful to see where you're at already.

I have the plastics to prevent the lane jumping already. I was looking for something to put on the the end of the outer lane guides to lessen the drains. Close the opening some.

There's a guy in France selling something that looks like he 3D printed to snap on but for $30 I'll pass.

#4228 28 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

I have the center post to help with drains out of the pops and loop. Family loves it. Never noticed a problem with outlane drains... is it possible you're not steep enough and getting too much float?

#4229 28 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I have the plastics to prevent the lane jumping already. I was looking for something to put on the the end of the outer lane guides to lessen the drains. Close the opening some.
There's a guy in France selling something that looks like he 3D printed to snap on but for $30 I'll pass.

But did you close up the outlane posts?

#4230 28 days ago

I have the lane protectors and tightened the outposts, lowered.

I don't like the plastic lane protectors and it makes it harder to clean and was.

#4231 28 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

But did you close up the outlane posts?

I am asking what to use or do to lessen the gap while still allowing drains. Just not as easy or frequent of drains.

Is there something to put on the end of the lane guide circled in blue to lessen the gap in red?

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#4232 28 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I am asking what to use or do to lessen the gap while still allowing drains. Just not as easy or frequent of drains.
Is there something to put on the end of the lane guide circled in blue to lessen the gap in red?[quoted image][quoted image]

You're looking at the wrong place to fix your issue. Drop that post on the outside of each side down with the rubber on it one more notch to the bottommost hole. It will lessen the number of drains you're seeing.

You could also look at your audits to see which drain has more balls go out it and just drop the post on that side to balance it out rather than dropping both.

#4234 27 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

Skill.

#4235 27 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

What are people putting on or using to lessen drains in the out lanes?

Move the outlane posts to the bottom-most hole. If thats not enough, you can try a larger rubber on that post.

#4236 27 days ago

I have this on my machine and definitely lessens the cheap outlane drains. Makes it a fairer game to play. Worth the money in my opinion.

#4237 26 days ago

Thank's Alby for your feedback

#4238 26 days ago

I am actually thinking about making a removable piece that will go around the bottom post of each slingshot assembly which would take a couple degrees of angle out of the slingshot rubber. The cheap side drains often times are due to the steep angle of the slingshot rubbers. They seem to be steeper on GB than on other games, so it shoots the ball right to the outlane. A couple degrees here may make a difference. I would also have to make a couple "shoes" to extend the kicker arm and the lower slingshot switch as well.

#4239 26 days ago

Unfortunately my 9 year old's skills are not that good yet and I don't want him to get discouraged.

#4241 26 days ago
Quoted from Rokablly:

I saw your save posts but for $31 I just can't do it.

Then lowering your outer posts is free and likely will address much of your problem.

1 week later
#4242 17 days ago

Is there a special tool for adjusting the outlane drain pins? I want to move them to the bottom position on my premium. I have the left one off, and it seems like the pin doesn’t want to go down into the bottom most hole. I’m won’t if there is a long socket driver you can get to screw it down into the hole?

Or, do you just have to gently hammer it down in, then secure with the washer and bolt on the bottom?

My other issue is on the right drain pin, there is the plastic protector above it, and it gets in the way of being able to pull the pin up and out. Suggestions? Try to just lift and bend the plastic enough to get it out?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

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#4243 17 days ago
Quoted from callaway15:

Is there a special tool for adjusting the outlane drain pins? I want to move them to the bottom position on my premium. I have the left one off, and it seems like the pin doesn’t want to go down into the bottom most hole. I’m won’t if there is a long socket driver you can get to screw it down into the hole?
Or, do you just have to gently hammer it down in, then secure with the washer and bolt on the bottom?
My other issue is on the right drain pin, there is the plastic protector above it, and it gets in the way of being able to pull the pin up and out. Suggestions? Try to just lift and bend the plastic enough to get it out?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, just gently hammer it in.

On the right I'd take the plastic off or rotate the bottom out of the way. If you flex too much, you will crack/break the plastic.

#4244 17 days ago
Quoted from callaway15:

Or, do you just have to gently hammer it down in ...

Yes. That's exactly what I've had to do on a couple games.

#4245 17 days ago

I actually found a 1/4 wrench and was able to screw the left outlane post in, vs hammering it in. Tedious though.

Unfortunately, didn’t seem like I could bend the plastic and metal above the right outlane post enough to get the post out. Looked at all of the plastic connections, and doesn’t seem super obvious, or easy to remove the piece to get it out the way. Just screwed the post back in the middle position for now.

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#4246 17 days ago

Hey guys, I’ve had a couple of issues with my GB Prem running code 1.13 and I’ve got someone onto it to fix, but figured I’d chuck it up here in case someone had a similar issue.

First, the librarian scoop wasn’t registering and looked like a switch issue. The switch was replaced and still a problem with intermittent registering. Turns out it was the connector. So that got changed and now works right as rain.

Then the optos in the subway and right orbit went dead. They don’t register at all. There were some VUK kicking off too by themselves but I wasn’t there when they had a fix for that.

Just wondering if it’s anything to do with the node boards I keep hearing about shitting themselves. I have next to no experience in troubleshooting this stuff

Cheers in advance

#4247 17 days ago
Quoted from rooky79:

Hey guys, I’ve had a couple of issues with my GB Prem running code 1.13 and I’ve got someone onto it to fix, but figured I’d chuck it up here in case someone had a similar issue.
First, the librarian scoop wasn’t registering and looked like a switch issue. The switch was replaced and still a problem with intermittent registering. Turns out it was the connector. So that got changed and now works right as rain.
Then the optos in the subway and right orbit went dead. They don’t register at all. There were some VUK kicking off too by themselves but I wasn’t there when they had a fix for that.
Just wondering if it’s anything to do with the node boards I keep hearing about shitting themselves. I have next to no experience in troubleshooting this stuff
Cheers in advance

For the optos, I belive they just plug into a distribution board, Follow one of them back from the opto to the connection and I'd check all those connections and see if they just came loose.

Have all the service bulletins been done on your machine? The later run machines had them done from the factory, but early to mid run you may not have them done, and that can definitely mess up your machine:

Flasher insulation:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB188.pdf

Node Board component reinforcement kit (so the diode doesn't break off the board):
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB189.pdf

Capacitor kit to stop false switch activations:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB190revB.pdf

Being international, I'm not sure how you get these service kits. In the US, you just call Stern and they send them to you for free. Maybe contact your distributor?

#4248 17 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

For the optos, I belive they just plug into a distribution board, Follow one of them back from the opto to the connection and I'd check all those connections and see if they just came loose.
Have all the service bulletins been done on your machine? The later run machines had them done from the factory, but early to mid run you may not have them done, and that can definitely mess up your machine:
Flasher insulation:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB188.pdf
Node Board component reinforcement kit (so the diode doesn't break off the board):
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB189.pdf
Capacitor kit to stop false switch activations:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stern-SB190revB.pdf
Being international, I'm not sure how you get these service kits. In the US, you just call Stern and they send them to you for free. Maybe contact your distributor?

Cool thanks for that chief. Appreciate it.

#4249 15 days ago

Im in the same situation. Is there a straight forward way to move the right post down? It seems like you would have to disassemble a large portion of the right ramp.

Quoted from callaway15:

I actually found a 1/4 wrench and was able to screw the left outlane post in, vs hammering it in. Tedious though.
Unfortunately, didn’t seem like I could bend the plastic and metal above the right outlane post enough to get the post out. Looked at all of the plastic connections, and doesn’t seem super obvious, or easy to remove the piece to get it out the way. Just screwed the post back in the middle position for now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#4250 15 days ago
Quoted from rwh143:

Im in the same situation. Is there a straight forward way to move the right post down? It seems like you would have to disassemble a large portion of the right ramp.

I lowered mine a few months back and I can tell you it was a pain in the ass to do. If I remember correctly I had to remove a lot of items in order to access and thought for sure at one point I was going to break the plastic. After I was done I was kind of ticked for I did not want it to be too easy in the right outlane for I was not going to change it back for how much of a burden it was to change in the first place. Blame this one on the designer.

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