(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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#4101 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

The right side ramp diverter rarely works. It should divert every time you hit a storage facility shot right? Any ideas? And how do I test it, couldn't find it in the menu.

Premuim/LE? The ball will flow straight through the subway if you don't have lock qualified.

#4102 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Premuim/LE? The ball will flow straight through the subway if you don't have lock qualified.

Sorry it's a pro. And yes I was talking about when the lock is qualified.

#4103 1 year ago
Quoted from J-Freeze:

Sorry it's a pro. And yes I was talking about when the lock is qualified.

Ah, sorry. Can't help you there

#4104 1 year ago

Just the other day my machine started showing vertical white lines through the Ecto goggle display. I tried reseating all the ethernet cables but it made no difference. I thought I would check and see if anyone has seen this before I'm stuck buying a new $180 LCD node.

IMG_1703 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#4105 1 year ago

Hey all - someone mentioned drop target ledge solution they may have done. I believe it came up earlier on this thread. i fixed my earlier drop target (fatboy/nunzio) and it only lasted for about 3 months...so I don''t' mind replacing them but if there's a better solution out there...I'd be up for it.

Someone was considering making the ledge part out of metal - wonder if anyone has tried this?

best

#4106 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all - someone mentioned drop target ledge solution they may have done. I believe it came up earlier on this thread. i fixed my earlier drop target (fatboy/nunzio) and it only lasted for about 3 months...so I don''t' mind replacing them but if there's a better solution out there...I'd be up for it.
Someone was considering making the ledge part out of metal - wonder if anyone has tried this?
best

Thicker plastic works fine. Just cut a piece of PET-G or the like into a thin rectangular shape and drill two small holes in it. Much stronger than the new (since about GoT time) crappy super-thin plastic Stern part.

#4107 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Thicker plastic works fine. Just cut a piece of PET-G or the like into a thin rectangular shape and drill two small holes in it. Much stronger than the new (since about GoT time) crappy super-thin plastic Stern part.

Is there a link as I don't understand where this petg plastic is installed. Does it brace the back of a target or ledge or something?

#4108 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Is there a link as I don't understand where this petg plastic is installed. Does it brace the140's back of a target?

I don't have a picture. Maybe I'll make a guide when I do the next one. Basically there's a thin "ledge" screwed to the metal bracket OPPOSITE the drop target, and that's what holds the target up, until it's hit, knocking the target's ledge off the bracket's ledge, letting the drop target drop. The ledge on the bracket is what Stern has cheaped out on since about 2013-4, making them thinner than ever and much more fragile for such a high-wear area. Making your own replacement when yours breaks is definitely the better idea.

#4109 1 year ago

Thanks Vireland - I can almost see myself buying a sheet of PETG and cutting..

But I noticed the official part (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6163-01) , has a a dip/reduction in the plastic towards one side (between the two holes) - I'm not sure of the design but wouldn't you need to replicate this on a cut piece of PETG too, in order to ensure the catch/release mechanism of the target etc?

Also would this size thickness of PETG work? amazon.com link »

#4110 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Thanks Vireland - I can almost see myself buying a sheet of PETG and cutting..
But I noticed the official part (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6163-01) , has a a dip/reduction in the plastic towards one side (between the two holes) - I'm not sure of the design but wouldn't you need to replicate this on a cut piece of PETG too, in order to ensure the catch/release mechanism of the target etc?
Also would this size thickness of PETG work? amazon.com link »

The drop target has a "ramp" molded into it, so it's not absolutely necessary on the "ledge" part, but yeah, you can trim it with an x-acto knife or a dremel. It's a short distance to angle. May take some trial and error. If you do it, it will make the action a little smoother, but it won't stop it from working if you don't.

You don't have some old yellowed cracked or broken pinball plastic laying around you can cut a piece out of? It doesn't have to be pretty - no one will be seeing it but you, and probably only once. I usually just repurpose one of those (sometimes I'll use leftover shadow clear plastic set plastics I have laying around). No need to buy a whole sheet to make a .75" x .15" (not actual dimensions!) little piece.

1 week later
#4111 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The drop target has a "ramp" molded into it, so it's not absolutely necessary on the "ledge" part, but yeah, you can trim it with an x-acto knife or a dremel. It's a short distance to angle. May take some trial and error. If you do it, it will make the action a little smoother, but it won't stop it from working if you don't.
You don't have some old yellowed cracked or broken pinball plastic laying around you can cut a piece out of? It doesn't have to be pretty - no one will be seeing it but you, and probably only once. I usually just repurpose one of those (sometimes I'll use leftover shadow clear plastic set plastics I have laying around). No need to buy a whole sheet to make a .75" x .15" (not actual dimensions!) little piece.

Had to followup on this...Vireland - what a GREAT idea / solution. Here's what I ended up making using a dremel. Note the extra layer of padding, from a cut of a poster board. Seems I needed a little more thickness to ensure a consistent 'latch'. Works great. I hope it lasts longer than 3 months. If so I will be replacing the other with a similar solution.

drop target alt (resized).jpg
#4112 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Had to followup on this...Vireland - what a GREAT idea / solution. Here's what I ended up making using a dremel. Note the extra layer of padding, from a cut of a poster board. Seems I needed a little more thickness to ensure a consistent 'latch'. Works great. I hope it lasts longer than 3 months. If so I will be replacing the other with a similar solution.[quoted image]

Yeah, it's ugly, but it does work! Those Stern factory ones are just unacceptably thin and fragile these days. Another hidden cost reduction we're all paying for in the end. I've literally never had one break on ANY pin in almost 40 years until GoT, which broke in 6 months.

#4113 1 year ago

I got the same issue so I make this spare part

cale scolari (resized).jpgIMG_20180304_174524 (resized).jpgPrint (resized).jpg
#4114 1 year ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

I got the same issue so I make this spare part
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Let me know how it holds up. I've wondered if an additive 3D printed part would have enough strength to withstand the abuse this part takes. If so, it's close to a perfect solution.

#4115 1 year ago

Had something new happen this weekend. Drain out of multiball, and there is a lot of clicking going on under the playfield toward the back. New ball loads in the shooter lane, and before I plunge it I get a screen stating Xnumber of ghosts caught and the ball plunges itself. Clicking continues and suddenly Storage Facility is lit with "Storage Facility Lit" appearing on the screen.

I have no idea what is going on, but it looks like the pop bumpers are giving out their slot machine type awards without the ball in the bumpers. Once that next ball is gone, the clicking and free awards stop. This happened twice in the same session.

Any idea what is happening? I'm hoping it's just a software bug that will be addressed in the next update. Both times it was after draining the last ball on a multiball....

#4116 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Let me know how it holds up. I've wondered if an additive 3D printed part would have enough strength to withstand the abuse this part takes. If so, it's close to a perfect solution.

Hi , this parts is in my GB since more than 500 plays , and it's good

#4117 1 year ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

Hi , this parts is in my GB since more than 500 plays , and it's good

Can you send me the file and I'll try printing one here?

#4118 1 year ago
Quoted from yoyokopter:

Hi , this parts is in my GB since more than 500 plays , and it's good

Here too.... I wouldnt mind making one or two for when it does .

THX!!!

#4119 1 year ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

Had something new happen this weekend. Drain out of multiball, and there is a lot of clicking going on under the playfield toward the back. New ball loads in the shooter lane, and before I plunge it I get a screen stating Xnumber of ghosts caught and the ball plunges itself. Clicking continues and suddenly Storage Facility is lit with "Storage Facility Lit" appearing on the screen.
I have no idea what is going on, but it looks like the pop bumpers are giving out their slot machine type awards without the ball in the bumpers. Once that next ball is gone, the clicking and free awards stop. This happened twice in the same session.
Any idea what is happening? I'm hoping it's just a software bug that will be addressed in the next update. Both times it was after draining the last ball on a multiball....

Have you tried to put it in switch test mode to see which switch is flaking out?

#4120 1 year ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

Had something new happen this weekend. Drain out of multiball, and there is a lot of clicking going on under the playfield toward the back. New ball loads in the shooter lane, and before I plunge it I get a screen stating Xnumber of ghosts caught and the ball plunges itself. Clicking continues and suddenly Storage Facility is lit with "Storage Facility Lit" appearing on the screen

Pro or premium?

Usually when this happens it is one of the optos. Probably loose connection, maybe loose wire or poor alignment. On location last night we had a GOT nearly destroy itself during stark when the ramp optos started flaking out and firing the red tremor non-stop. Reseating the connectors on the node board was all that was needed.

I know there is an opto on the ecto goggles, not sure if there are others. Clicking was probably an eject or diverter firing. As someone else said, put the game in switch test and see what is triggering.

#4121 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Can you send me the file and I'll try printing one here?

There are machines out that can 3d print and infuse carbon fiber as well as fiberglass into the print. They use them for making machining fixtures and full strength prototype parts. Our CAD software reseller has been bugging us to buy one, but our current SLA machine meets our needs. If you can find someone locally that has one, it would be the cat's ass for this part.

#4122 1 year ago
Quoted from imharrow:

Pro or premium?
Usually when this happens it is one of the optos. Probably loose connection, maybe loose wire or poor alignment. On location last night we had a GOT nearly destroy itself during stark when the ramp optos started flaking out and firing the red tremor non-stop. Reseating the connectors on the node board was all that was needed.
I know there is an opto on the ecto goggles, not sure if there are others. Clicking was probably an eject or diverter firing. As someone else said, put the game in switch test and see what is triggering.

It's a premium. I'll run the test tonight in a normal state and see if it shows anything. I may need to catch it when it's happening and try to run it as well.

I had the opto on my ST warp ramp get out of alignment mid-game. All I could here was "warp...warp...warp". The callout couldn't even keep up. I'm now the warp champ with 97. That record should stand for a while!! I've thought about trying to clear it out, but I don't want to lose my GC score.

#4123 1 year ago

I ran the switch test. It hangs on the third switch. The test doesn't continue. It just sits on the screen in the pic and clicks continuously. I'll pull the manual tomorrow and see if I can decipher what the test is telling me. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.

GB Switch Test (resized).jpg
#4124 1 year ago

Reseat all of the connections around the opto under the playfield. If this doesn't fix it then it looks like you are in the market for a new Single drop target opto board. Those are notorious. You can disable the Scolari Brother target in settings so that it stops impeding your gameplay until you can fix it.

#4125 1 year ago

Hey all - had a question about 'shopping' GB premium. Actually 1st, I wanted to replace the pinballs so I'm thinking of going with an ultra glossy type (http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=849) anyone have any opinions here?

Then, at the sametime I replace the balls - is there any top to bottom suggestion for rubbers / flipper / other parts that should be replaced / shopped? Its a home use only machine, but it's my only one. Probably gets about 30 plays a month if I were to estimate.

Apologies if this was asked b4 - or if there's a general guide/suggestion someone can point me to.

Thanks!

#4126 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Reseat all of the connections around the opto under the playfield. If this doesn't fix it then it looks like you are in the market for a new Single drop target opto board. Those are notorious. You can disable the Scolari Brother target in settings so that it stops impeding your gameplay until you can fix it.

I haven't checked the book, but I thought that wording was describing the right Scolari target as well. What doesn't make sense is the targets function normally. They activate correctly and drop correctly. What's happening "in-game" is I'm getting random awards (like random ghosts caught or storage facility becoming lit). I hope that doesn't mean that there is something else going on as well.

Hopefully I can identify the board you're talking about, or I'll be back asking more newb questions! Thanks!!

#4127 1 year ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I haven't checked the book, but I thought that wording was describing the right Scolari target as well. What doesn't make sense is the targets function normally. They activate correctly and drop correctly. What's happening "in-game" is I'm getting random awards (like random ghosts caught or storage facility becoming lit). I hope that doesn't mean that there is something else going on as well.
Hopefully I can identify the board you're talking about, or I'll be back asking more newb questions! Thanks!!

Page 36 in the manual part, # 520-5252-01. Check connectors first.

#4128 1 year ago
Quoted from brandonx76:

Hey all - had a question about 'shopping' GB premium. Actually 1st, I wanted to replace the pinballs so I'm thinking of going with an ultra glossy type (http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=849) anyone have any opinions here?
Then, at the sametime I replace the balls - is there any top to bottom suggestion for rubbers / flipper / other parts that should be replaced / shopped? Its a home use only machine, but it's my only one. Probably gets about 30 plays a month if I were to estimate.
Apologies if this was asked b4 - or if there's a general guide/suggestion someone can point me to.
Thanks!

How long have you owned your machine? If it is only getting 30 plays a month there should be no reason to shop that game out. Its hardly being used. I typically wipe down and wax my playfields once a month but I am putting about 200 plays on mine a month. I would not mess with a flipper rebuild until your machine has about 5,000 or so plays or when you feel like the flippers are getting weak. At the rate you are playing your game, you shouldn't have to change the flippers for a long long time. I would inspect your rubbers for any wear and tear but again with the low plays you have your rubbers should be in tip top shape. I would just wipe down the playfield and the components on the playfield and play the crap out of it. Have fun!

Regarding the balls, I am not sure what I use for mine for my wife just orders them. I believe the manual suggests to replace the balls every 2,000 plays so I would just inspect the balls you have and if there are no scuffs or craters in them you are good to go.

#4129 1 year ago

Hello everyone. I am picking up a GB Pro tomorrow. The seller did tell me that the cable to the slimmer is broke. Can you just buy the cable or you have to buy the cable w/ the slimer attached?

#4130 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Hello everyone. I am picking up a GB Pro tomorrow. The seller did tell me that the cable to the slimmer is broke. Can you just buy the cable or you have to buy the cable w/ the slimmer attached?

Not sure about the cable, but if you're going to be in this club you must spell slimer correctly or be forever scorned.

#4131 1 year ago

My cable broke on the slimer. Are these the only 2 replacements available?

Screenshot_20181006-072844_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20181006-072857_Chrome (resized).jpg
#4132 1 year ago

The cable should be easy enough to replace. Kind of looks like bike brake line cable. Check out McMaster Carr. Nice selection of parts you don't see every day. Do you have a picture of where it's actually broken?

#4133 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

The cable should be easy enough to replace. Kind of looks like bike brake line cable. Check out McMaster Carr. Nice selection of parts you don't see every day. Do you have a picture of where it's actually broken?

I can send a pic today. Im picking it up at 10am. Im working on the price with him due to this issue. Just trying to see how much he should come down due to this issue

#4134 1 year ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I ran the switch test. It hangs on the third switch. The test doesn't continue. It just sits on the screen in the pic and clicks continuously. I'll pull the manual tomorrow and see if I can decipher what the test is telling me. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.[quoted image]

Switch test just displays which switches are on /off and which ever the last switch is. If you drop targets are down, this is the correct state.

Take the glass off and bang the playfield and see what triggers. Also if you say you still hear the clicking try to isolate what is doing that. If you can't find it, but it happens reproducibly turn the game off and try unplugging things from the back node board and turn back on. When it goes away, you have unplugged it and you have isolated which plug it is on.

#4135 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I can send a pic today. Im picking it up at 10am. Im working on the price with him due to this issue. Just trying to see how much he should come down due to this issue

In all honesty you should deduct the cost of the full slimer part at least. The game is unplayable without it. Just out of curiosity, how did he mange to break a stranded cable??

#4136 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

In all honesty you should deduct the cost of the full slimer part at least. The game is unplayable without it. Just out of curiosity, how did he mange to break a stranded cable??

I am not sure how it broke.. He does not know. He really does not play much pinball. I am getting a good deal but this just seems to be a headache w/ the slimer.. I was going to tell him to knock off 100 bucks but are you saying for the entire assembly which is 300?

#4137 1 year ago

Seems with that kind of breakage its routed. Almost hard to believe that could break.

#4138 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Seems with that kind of breakage its routed. Almost hard to believe that could break.

I agree.

#4139 1 year ago

My right flipper button on my Ghostbusters Pro started behaving erratically and now has stopped functioning altogether. The flipper coil works fine in the test menu. Leaf switches and all connections look fine. No other issues besides a single dead pixel. Any ideas for further diagnostics before I call my distributor here in the Milwaukee area?

#4140 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Page 36 in the manual part, # 520-5252-01. Check connectors first.

I reseated all connectors at the indicated area. No switch issue over the weekend. Hopefully that's the end of it...Thanks!

#4141 1 year ago
Quoted from KenToad:

My right flipper button on my Ghostbusters Pro started behaving erratically and now has stopped functioning altogether. The flipper coil works fine in the test menu. Leaf switches and all connections look fine. No other issues besides a single dead pixel. Any ideas for further diagnostics before I call my distributor here in the Milwaukee area?

Test the actual switch instead of just looking at it. Switch test mode.

#4142 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Test the actual switch instead of just looking at it. Switch test mode.

Nothing happens when I press the switch in switch test mode.

#4143 1 year ago
Quoted from KenToad:

Nothing happens when I press the switch in switch test mode.

So that's your problem. Broken wire, or broken switch. Can you take a picture of the switch? My *guess* is the leaf connections have bent too far apart over time and they're just not making connection anymore, which a simple bend will fix. Could also be a broken wire or the switch physically broken off on one side. A picture will help.

#4144 1 year ago
Quoted from KenToad:

Nothing happens when I press the switch in switch test mode.

follow the wires all the way from the flipper switch to the backbox

#4145 1 year ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

follow the wires all the way from the flipper switch to the backbox

It's more likely the switch itself is the problem, either from a broken wire at the switch or (more likely) the connections not touching anymore. But a picture of the switch would help.

#4146 1 year ago

The leaf switch appears to be fine, leafs are making solid contact and the wires are firmly soldered to the switch and ground tabs. I've tried following the wires, but they get sort of lost in the large bundle about three quarters back in the cabinet. I'm pretty sure I identified the wire colors, though and I've looked at all the connections on the spike board and nodes 8 and 9. So far, I can't see any wires that look loose or disconnected, although I agree that the behavior seems to point to faulty wiring.

#4147 1 year ago
Quoted from KenToad:

The leaf switch appears to be fine, leafs are making solid contact and the wires are firmly soldered to the switch and ground tabs. I've tried following the wires, but they get sort of lost in the large bundle about three quarters back in the cabinet. I'm pretty sure I identified the wire colors, though and I've looked at all the connections on the spike board and nodes 8 and 9. So far, I can't see any wires that look loose or disconnected, although I agree that the behavior seems to point to faulty wiring.

Test the connection at the board, then.

Go into switch test mode. Remove the connector CN9 from Node 8 Board. Use a jumper to connect pins 7 and 3. The right flipper should activate in the switch test. If it does not, you have a board problem. If it DOES work, you have a wiring problem and just need to put a multimeter in continuity mode and one probe on pin 3, and then the other probe on the corresponding wire at the switch and see if there's continuity. Then repeat using pin 7 and the ground wire at the switch to make sure there's continuity. that will at least tell you whether it's a board or a wire problem, and if a wire problem WHICH wire.

#4148 1 year ago

Before you do all that, remove and then reseat CN9 and try the flipper.

#4149 1 year ago

Wow, it's definitely a problem at CN9, thanks! I could push the wires up in there to activate the right flipper, although it was still erratic and didn't always work. I'll try the jumper thing. What's the best way to do that, just a wire?

#4150 1 year ago

Also, is it okay to turn the power on and test switches while the playfield is vertical?

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