I used this from Pinball Life: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=359

Metal Hex Spacers 1/4" - 2-1/4" Long (Female/Female)
Choose a Length : 1-5/8"

just saw the above post, thank you!!!

One new issue and one old issue. (pro)

It seems I cannot get my slimmer to work properly no matter how much I mess with it. I can hit it 6 times and it won't register, but the next time I shake the machine, it registers. Sometimes it works fine and other times not. No consistency and it's really ruining the game. I'm out of ideas on that one. (yes I have the new mech)

The new issue is it seems the Stern 'cliffy' on the left scoop is starting to lift off the play field ever so slightly that when the ball comes down the left lane it will sometimes catch the corner of the cliffy and change the trajectory of the ball. Anyway to fix that?

Thanks.

Are you sure that's happening at the scoop edge? Film it with an iphone with slo-mo turned on. I bet it's happening at the spinner on the left orbit. Happens on the GB Prem here sometimes, too, but it's always around the spinner area that the redirect happens.

Actually I think I have the issue at both places. I thought it was catching the back of the drop target as well, but since I leveled the machine, it's not hitting the target.

I will try to capture it in slo-mo. I can almost stick a playing card under the corner of the cliffy in question. I can take the ball and put it past the spinner and let it roll and it catches the corner of the scoop.

Did you do anything to fix the ball getting caught on the spinner?

No, it's just annoying when it happens. Not sure what the fix is, but it has to be age-related because it didn't do it the whole first year we had it.

Ghostbusters Airball Protector

Ghostbusters Right Orbit Protector

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protector-1

pic6 (resized).jpg

Ok, so having an issue with the right scoop.

First symptom was that I had some people over, and about 2-3 times in short succession the software would crash when a ball would go into the scoop. I’ve had maybe 2 other crashes total in the past 18 months, and neither could be replicated the way this one was.

I reset the software, and didn’t see issues the next 1-2 times I played it.

Now the switch has stopped registering. I checked it in switch test and it’s not reading there either. (The coil still works fine, and the ball will kick out once it goes into test mode.)

I haven’t had a chance to dig any further into it, but are there any likely causes that I should check out first? I’m wondering myself if the problem may be the node board rather than the switch itself, but I don’t know if the code glitches were just a random coincidence or not.

I continue to have issues with mine as well, it seems like it registers a direct hit 1 out of every 100 times i hit it. Yep, THAT bad. So i noticed pinball life sells a Slimer LED/Contact Switch PCB (see link below) has anyone ever bought this and did it fix your issues with slimmer?

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4420

Bend the arm on the switch out more and if it still isn't registering, replace the switch. This is pretty common on GB scoop (and the KISS scoop). Ball just pounded switch so it doesn't register anymore.

Getting a weird auto launch problem on Ghostbusters Pro. Intermittent.
It tries to launch the ball but the plunger rod is stuck. It will unstuck if I force it by hand hard. Then it will work again for a while.
It's like it is occasionally binding sometimes then other times it is 100% binding. Swapped around node 8 and 9. No change.
Anyone else had this issue?

I finally replaced the Hex screw on the right ramp to a shorter one. HOLY COW. Everyone is correct in that you need to change this out now. I never had a hard time hitting the shot but it had to be at the right speed to make it up and around. Now I can have the ball trapped on the left flipper and hit that shot and that ball zooms down that ramp. So awesome. It was like I was playing a totally different game. Was able to get through Gozer mode a lot easier now.

So I haven’t been keeping up with GB or been playing it much but my wife and I pulled the covers off and had a few games.

It reminded me to check out if there’s any news on the wizard mode actually getting finished or is this game finished as is now and left for dead because of the Trudeau issue?

An update is coming, but it will be later this year or after. They didn't specify the order of the updates.

Check out the "Blog" section here for the "Stern of the Union" (that title makes no sense, I know) updates:

http://www.sternpinball.com/community#

For those who want to become owners of Ghostbusters and are reading this thread, I have an immaculate Premium for sale now with many Stern accessories, improvements, custom code.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/62159

Sounds like you broke the little black plastic "ledge" the target grabs onto when reset into the up position. Look at it from underneath. You may have to remove the assembly to see it. I made my own out of a thicker strip of plastic and it didn't break again.

Do you have the stock springs on it?

I had experienced something like this. The brother would pop up and straight back down again. My opto was bad. Try swapping the opto with the other brother and see if it starts working. (But then your other brother will be bad!)

So anyone know if the Slimer LED/Contact Switch PCB (see link below) that pinball life sells would fix issues with Slimer not registering hits??

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4420

Did you already go through this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-slimer-shot-registration-issues-on-gb

I have a premium ghostbusters. The slimmer mech is lost in its travel path. Its stuck over by the fire house. Does anyone know what causes this or where to look?

Have you upgraded the software? This is a known problem with older versions of the software.

Anyone have advice on the slimer calibration?
I had an issue where he would move all the way over by the firehouse and sit there during games. In test mode, he would move with each advance press to the next position and then back home again...no issues.
I tried running the calibration..and it errored out. It looked like it couldn't get to the 92 (of 100+) for its end of position.

Now he's in worse shape lol.

Here is a video. This slimer appears to not be registering the position changes. I checked the cables and they all appeared connected. Machine is on 1.13.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/apGjCkjQ8cy9sca17

I dont know if the opto is freaking out? Is there a way to test?
(pinballnut3 was helping me tshoot)

Testing the opto is pretty straightforward. You need to detach it from the mech and then pass a coin through it while in switch test mode. Good luck.

Anyone have issues with crazy air balls off the scoleri targets? While down
Ball launches up over the airball protector for the left ramp.
I’m not sure if the cliffy is causing it or if the target is sticking up ever so slightly during gameplay.
Doesn’t happen all the time but it is pissing me off!

We have cliffies on the ones here and no airballs off the scoleri targets (at least none high enough to go over a flipper). Do you have the coils set to normal or soft? Ours are set to soft.

Not an airball off the target itself but balls rolling over them when they are down are causing the ball to go flying up over the airball protector on left ramp area. I had one launch half way up ramp and into the buildings/pops area.

Doesn't happen here. Are your coils set to normal or soft?

Also, are the drop targets flush to the PF when down, or are they sunken a little or raised a little?

I removed my scoleri cliffys due to the wild air balls off them. Once removed the airballs off the scoleri’s stopped.

I may take them off and see what happens. I want to say the targets are flush but I need to double check.

Do the coil settings have any impact on how they go down in pf? I currently have them set normal, by changing to soft what impact should I expect to them game in general? Maybe I'll start with this.

No, it makes all the coils about 5-10% less powerful. Takes the edge off flippers being too powerful and you really shouldn't notice a loss of power, just smoother gameplay.

Targets seem flush... I will try the soft coil settings. Hard to believe the cliffys being so thin could launch a ball like that.

Must be situational. We have them installed since day one and never had what you're describing.

It seems my cpu battery needs replacing as the time setting will not hold after power off. I tried removing the old one but without success. Is there a trick to removing these like a clip or something. I don't want to use pliers especially if the game is on. Any help from someone who has replaced theirs would be greatly appreciated

If the battery top is 12 o'clock (looking at it from the back side of the battery), you press against the 9 o-clock position and angle the battery out of the socket, then slide your finger toward 12 o'clock to pop the battery out of the socket at which point you can easily grab it and pull it toward you out of the casing.

bat_step1 (resized).jpg
bat_step2 (resized).jpg

So last night after a few scotches and a frustrating night at my GB, I got to thinking about the possibility of elongating the holes (essentially making a slot) for the flippers so that the mechs could be dropped lower to an acceptable flipper gap. Then on the under side rotate the mech slightly so that you have 2 sets of hole patterns ( 1 stock, 1 modified). This way you could use the original flippers and not those embarrassing carrots. Even if I decided to revert back to the original gap, the flipper bats would cover the larger hole for the most part. Anyone thought of or attempted to do this before? Were talking what a 1/8" notch on both sides max? I know I know #playbetter....

Hi guys, my Right Scoleri Brothers pops up then goes back down. Stern sent me some plastic replacements, to install these do I just need to unscrew the whole assembly then put the new plastic bracket in place? Or can it be done another way?

I have Cliffy's installed and no air balls as well. I have a Pro though and it seems like the vast majority of the airball issues are coming from Premiums/LEs.

We have them installed on a Prem and no problems.

We'll I think I found my issue with slimer now counting up to his programmed positions. S58 doesn't open or close on a switch test.
Any idea what to test or just order a whole new board?

slimer opto (resized).JPG

Get a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and try cleaning them. They might just be dirty.

Thank you very much. I thought similar but a friend advised not to bend the spring clip so I used pliers and some force. Changed battery and will now leave game off for an hour or so to see if problem solved. New battery a CR2032 3V (manual has typo CR232 3V) measured 3+V old battery was 0.18V

I came up with swappable flippable bats 2 years ago, avoiding carrot flipper bats but within 5 minutes I can swap out a set of bats turning it from 3" to 3 1/8" to even 2 7/8" for a comp or kids etc. the shaft is installed and then the bats screw down from the top side on to the square drive and nothing needs to be adjusted and you are good to play. Sadly people don't like DIY kits or the screw in the top.

I personally wouldn't be changing the playfield or brackets.

Try reflowing the solder joints on those optos. Sometimes the solder joints are not strong enough to hold the mass of the opto with all the vibrations in a typical pinball machine.

i
I just got a Ghostbusters premium machine, added the recommended (by dealer) outlane protector that has a centerpost. The centerpost helps with drain balls going down the middle of this wide gap between flippers. Also protects against airballs in the outlanes. This is available through Marco Specialties as Ghost guard kit. Easier than modifying the flippers.

It was a bad switch after all. Thanks for the help in diagnosing it!

This seemed to do the trick! We'll keep an eye on things for a the near future. If I have problems again, thanks for the suggestion on the solder joints...they look ok.

Ack! It made it two games. Now he isn't registering movement of location again.
Another thing I noticed, is sometimes when I'm in the testing mode...I move into the slimer tests and cant get them to start. It doesn't reagister to do the test with the +, -, enter or even the start button.

I reboot the game and then the test works, but his location fails