Quoted from sethi_i:Registering on all shots! Thanks....
Much more fun when that happens!
Quoted from sethi_i:Registering on all shots! Thanks....
Much more fun when that happens!
Quoted from brandonx76:ya know, I gotta laugh, and I appreciate everyone's thoughts so far...but I am finding if I don't pull the plunger its hardest, say about 70 %, I make the orbit just fine...
so pretty much problem solved..The thing I am noticing is the auto plunger, still seems to struggle and the ball can get stuck in the orbit occasionally. Again I can get around this by plunging before the auto plunger shoots, but if I was able to adjust the auto plunger velocity, that would probably fix my problem there...don't suppose this is something Stern would enable/enhance in the software
The game is perfectly level'd , but it was also suggested I possibly change the pitch a bit so it's steeper, to possibly assist with this. Hadn't tried that yet
If the full plunge is too strong only sells weaker springs for manual and stiffer springs for auto.
In the early days of GB most people swapped out the springs. The manual spring was green swapped for Orange or the other way around. Pbl sells a stiffer auto plunge spring for GB.
All,
Selling a new Stern set of Art Blades.
See add, won’t last long!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-stern-ghostbusters-art-blades
Quoted from chucksmith:If the full plunge is too strong only sells weaker springs for manual and stiffer springs for auto.
In the early days of GB most people swapped out the springs. The manual spring was green swapped for Orange or the other way around. Pbl sells a stiffer auto plunge spring for GB.
Thanks, so since i'm not killing it with the plunger..it's really a problem at this point with auto plunge, maybe 25% of the time the ball will get stuck on the orbit latch.
I guess I'm wondering if that's just something that can happen? Had a party with the pinball machine playing and it got stuck once with a friend playing. came over and hug and shoved the machine and the ball fell down. My first pin so I wonder if I'm expecting too much not to get a ball stuck from time to time
Starting to have a wired issue here. The face of my 2x stand up target has started to rotate slightly towards the left loop. As a result plugged balls ( here and there) clip the top corner of the target throwing off the balls trajectory.
I've already tried bending it back, but it eventually works it's way out of wack again. Anyone else experience this?
Quoted from billrz:So this just happened. . Just over a year, hopefully warranty still covers it. I read about this issue early on. Thought they rectified it
yes happened to me and even though out of warranty our local distributor replaced but I am still using my beefed up version - check out my post on this link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/57#post-3694640
Was there ever a better solution proposed to the super-stiff targets next to the ramps (that rocket the ball back so hard it jumps over the flippers)? The last I saw, in the early days of this thread, it was adding a bit of weatherstripping behind them. I'm on a Premium, FWIW.
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:Was there ever a better solution proposed to the super-stiff targets next to the ramps (that rocket the ball back so hard it jumps over the flippers)? The last I saw, in the early days of this thread, it was adding a bit of weatherstripping behind them. I'm on a Premium, FWIW.
One User created target wedges to pitch the targets forward. The same user i believe designed a new target bracket with the pitch built in AND also raised the target off the field a bit more to keep the ball from striking the rivet. Both of these parts are available via shapeways. I have never really seen anything documenting how these solutions have worked out over time. I would love to know before dropping $30 on 2 brackets.
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:Was there ever a better solution proposed to the super-stiff targets next to the ramps (that rocket the ball back so hard it jumps over the flippers)? The last I saw, in the early days of this thread, it was adding a bit of weatherstripping behind them. I'm on a Premium, FWIW.
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:One User created target wedges to pitch the targets forward. The same user i believe designed a new target bracket with the pitch built in AND also raised the target off the field a bit more to keep the ball from striking the rivet. Both of these parts are available via shapeways. I have never really seen anything documenting how these solutions have worked out over time. I would love to know before dropping $30 on 2 brackets.
yes that would be me with the wedges and then the re-designed target brackets, feedback to me has been positive but none posted on pinside yet and very very rarely get ball hop but that is me and hopefully has helped others. I ask other people that purchased to share their feedback as well - positive, negative, constructive...
Quoted from swinks:yes that would be me with the wedges and then the re-designed target brackets, feedback to me has been positive but none posted on pinside yet and very very rarely get ball hop but that is me and hopefully has helped others. I ask other people that purchased to share their feedback as well - positive, negative, constructive...
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRBNG4DQK/stern-target-bracket-v2-5deg2mm?optionId=63971960&li=marketplace
It would help if you had installation "before" and "after" pictures on the product page to demonstrate what it looks like installed.
Quoted from PinMonk:It would help if you had installation "before" and "after" pictures on the product page to demonstrate what it looks like installed.
yes I have been a bit slack there.
thanks for the push PinMonk , the shapeways listing has been updated and I thought I showed it on one of the threads but didn't, my apologies
photo 1 - shows the difference from the side between the stern bracket and the new angled Swinks bracket on the left
IMG_3532 (resized).JPG
photo 2 - shows the difference from above between the stern bracket and the new angled Swinks bracket on the right - the slot is moved 2mm closer to the corner which effectively raises the target
IMG_3533 (resized).jpg
photo 3 - shows the 2 brackets to be swapped out in which the light board has to be loosened to remove one for swapping
IMG_3530 (resized).JPG
photo 4 - shows the Stern bracket before swapping the base bracket
IMG_1210 (resized).JPG
photo 5 - remove the bolts while keeping the parts of the target together and then assemble the new Swinks bracket like the original
IMG_1211 (resized).JPG
photo 6 - this shows the ball next to the target rivet with Stern's base bracket
IMG_3521 (resized).jpg
photo 7 - this shows the ball next to the target rivet with the new Swinks bracket
IMG_3538 (resized).JPG
photo 8 - this shows the comparison between the 2 targets with the height difference - left is original and sitting lower and right higher due to the drop of 2mm in the slot on the swinks bracket.
IMG_3535 (resized).jpg
Once finished both targets they will both sit higher.
Note: the brackets now on sale do not have the web in the corner as this was un-necessary in a casting so photos 1 & 2 are of v1, v2 are the ones now available.
I hope that helps
Quoted from swinks:thanks for the push vireland , the shapeways listing has been updated and I thought I showed it on one of the threads but didn't, my apologies
I think those pictures will help your sales a LOT.
So in your experience, does this reduce airballs off the targets or does it eliminate them? If it eliminates them and I can remove the shield/protector over the top, I'd be all over this.
Quoted from PinMonk:If it eliminates them and I can remove the shield/protector over the top, I've be all over this.
That is the real question- minimize or eliminate?
Quoted from cpr9999:That is the real question- minimize or eliminate?
Well we're going to find out, because I just bought two to try ($17.50 each, shipped) on the GB Premium we have on the route. I'll add these, remove the shield and report back.
thanks for the support PinMonk and others
for me and others it heavily reduces from a big airball (half the playfield and high) every 1-2 games to
now
1 little ball hope off the side of the left hand target if you hit the side sometimes once in every 15-20 games
so not a total "elimination" and much more than a mere "minimise" but the little hops are very small maybe an inch and rare and the 1 in 15-20 games is probably worse case, very rarely get them. BUT a square on power shot will return the ball back to you fast which tells me that the angle of the bracket is making a big difference.
I need help. super frustrating problem with my premium. The left scoop only rewards 75 percent of my shots or less, the other 25 percent just kick out with no reward (including increase super jackpot. ...I will upload a video,it happens at the worst times, add-a-ball.extra ball etc etc..If I cant fix it,I might have to sell it its gotta be the switch,ive bent it a tiny bit, seemed to work for a few games,but then back to not registering... anybody else experience this? my last resort is to get a new switch and install it I guess..im at a loss....please help. thank you
Quoted from billrz:I need help. super frustrating problem with my premium. The left scoop only rewards 75 percent of my shots or less, the other 25 percent just kick out with no reward (including increase super jackpot. ...I will upload a video,it happens at the worst times, add-a-ball.extra ball etc etc..If I cant fix it,I might have to sell it its gotta be the switch,ive bent it a tiny bit, seemed to work for a few games,but then back to not registering... anybody else experience this? my last resort is to get a new switch and install it I guess..im at a loss....please help. thank you
It's DEFINITELY the switch. It's making a momentary connection, but not staying closed while the ball's there. Happens on KISS and GB like this. Adjust it much more, and if you can't get it to register reliably, just replace it.
Quoted from swinks:thanks for the support vireland and others
for me and others it heavily reduces from a big airball (half the playfield and high) every 1-2 games to
now
1 little ball hope off the side of the left hand target if you hit the side sometimes once in every 15-20 games
so not a total "elimination" and much more than a mere "minimise" but the little hops are very small maybe an inch and rare and the 1 in 15-20 games is probably worse case, very rarely get them. BUT a square on power shot will return the ball back to you fast which tells me that the angle of the bracket is making a big difference.
So to clarify this design is meant to raise the target to match the height and pitch of Bally / Williams targets, right? That being said if you were to raise them even higher, say and additional 1-2mm, could that potentially eliminate the air balls all together?
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:So to clarify this design is meant to raise the target to match the height and pitch of Bally / Williams targets, right? That being said if you were to raise them even higher, say and additional 1-2mm, could that potentially eliminate the air balls all together?
you can't go any further as you are limited but the stern target design with the slot as the slot is already at it's maximum near the bracket bend,
and it almost eliminates the airballs but it is a big statement to say this or any other guard stops airballs totally, but for me a few others that have reported back say it is a big difference.
Quoted from swinks:you can't go any further as you are limited but the stern target design with the slot as the slot is already at it's maximum near the bracket bend,
and it almost eliminates the airballs but it is a big statement to say this or any other guard stops airballs totally, but for me a few others that have reported back say it is a big difference.
Still waiting for ours, but looking forward to trying it!
I read through this before I got my GB Premium. I am being lazy and will simply ask again. Sorry if these questions were addressed:
1. Sometimes when I hit it up the loop with the holographic ghost, the ball sounds like it is banging into wood. Is this normal or do I need to change something?
2. Sometimes when the game shots a ball from the trough, it also hits wood. Is this normal? Is this the trough eject power in the GB Adjustments menu that is set to 255? I changed it to 245. Is this a good setting is this is the right one?
3. Slimer seems to catch on the buildings as it is placed into play or moved out of play. Is this normal? (My game came with an upside down Ecto Goggles decal and the antenna of the Empire State Building in the City Scape was bent and had a hole in it. (Stern is sending me a new decal and new city scape.) I am not sure if the Slimer mech did this.
Thank you,
Michael
Quoted from mbelofsky:1. Sometimes when I hit it up the loop with the holographic ghost, the ball sounds like it is banging into wood. Is this normal or do I need to change something?
Remove the piece of mylar in the right orbit. This should make the shot smooth as butter.
Quoted from mbelofsky:2. Sometimes when the game shots a ball from the trough, it also hits wood. Is this normal? Is this the trough eject power in the GB Adjustments menu that is set to 255? I changed it to 245. Is this a good setting is this is the right one?
The trough eject power setting is to adjust how hard the game fires the ball out of the trough into the shooter lane. There is no way to adjust the strength of the auto-plunger in the settings. On some games, it fires the ball too hard and it gets hung up on the gate behind Stay Puft. There are a couple ways to address this. You can change out the auto-plunger spring to a higher tension one. This will reduce the velocity of the ball. Another option is to install a piece of plastic that helps to guide the ball downward after it leaves the shooter lane. There is a Pinsider that custom makes these, but I can't remember who it is.
Quoted from mbelofsky:I read through this before I got my GB Premium. I am being lazy and will simply ask again. Sorry if these questions were addressed:
1. Sometimes when I hit it up the loop with the holographic ghost, the ball sounds like it is banging into wood. Is this normal or do I need to change something?
2. Sometimes when the game shots a ball from the trough, it also hits wood. Is this normal? Is this the trough eject power in the GB Adjustments menu that is set to 255? I changed it to 245. Is this a good setting is this is the right one?
3. Slimer seems to catch on the buildings as it is placed into play or moved out of play. Is this normal? (My game came with an upside down Ecto Goggles decal and the antenna of the Empire State Building in the City Scape was bent and had a hole in it. (Stern is sending me a new decal and new city scape.) I am not sure if the Slimer mech did this.
Thank you,
Michael
How badly is slimer catching on the buildings? Sometimes you can adjust the bar holding slimer but if you bend it too much it might snap so be careful. I've settled on slimer barely catching because I had trouble with the mech hitting the glass and not functioning correctly.
I am having troubble with my GB Pro, and the Scolari brothers / terror dog hurry up / book stacking starts all the time,... I mean all the time. I thought it to be a bad standup switch where the right captivball is but after fiddeling with it for some time in the test it registers normal and only when really activeted / hit by captiveball.... I mean the scolari brothers drop-targets goes up all the time without hitting captive ball... Any tips on what to do next... ?
Quoted from hedghog:I am having troubble with my GB Pro, and the Scolari brothers / terror dog hurry up / book stacking starts all the time,... I mean all the time. I thought it to be a bad standup switch where the right captivball is but after fiddeling with it for some time in the test it registers normal and only when really activeted / hit by captiveball.... I mean the scolari brothers drop-targets goes up all the time without hitting captive ball... Any tips on what to do next... ?
I'm not clear what the issue is. I'd love to help but my first reply felt trollish. Are you saying scolari brothers are activating when they aren't supposed to? Or is it that they activate a lot the way it's supposed to but you would prefer they don't activate?
Quoted from nowakster:I'm not clear what the issue is. I'd love to help but my first reply felt trollish. Are you saying scolari brothers are activating when they aren't supposed to? Or is it that they activate a lot the way it's supposed to but you would prefer they don't activate?
They activate when they not supposed to, like even on ball 1 on the plunge before I have gotten the ball to the flippers they go up.... It seems like it is somehow registering when some other coil is activated, like the pop bumpers or even the flippercoils... I have reseated all connectors on the nodeboards under the PF.... And also the game is brand new...
Quoted from hedghog:They activate when they not supposed to, like even on ball 1 on the plunge before I have gotten the ball to the flippers they go up.... It seems like it is somehow registering when some other coil is activated, like the pop bumpers or even the flippercoils... I have reseated all connectors on the nodeboards under the PF.... And also the game is brand new...
Put the game in switch test mode and hit the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand and see if switches are registering from vibration that shouldn't be.
Quoted from PinMonk:Put the game in switch test mode and hit the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand and see if switches are registering from vibration that shouldn't be.
Nope, sw46 is not registering when pf is hit / shaken....
Quoted from hedghog:Nope, sw46 is not registering when pf is hit / shaken....
Then maybe a flaky component is intermittently making the scoleri targets activate. Do they still come up if they're disabled in the software?
Quoted from PinMonk:Then maybe a flaky component is intermittently making the scoleri targets activate. Do they still come up if they're disabled in the software?
Have not tried to disable, will try this and see.. But it is not only scolari droptargets, its the other modes coming on like terror dog hurry up and book stacking... All of what i understand is from hitting right captive ball / sw46...
Quoted from nowakster:How badly is slimer catching on the buildings? Sometimes you can adjust the bar holding slimer but if you bend it too much it might snap so be careful. I've settled on slimer barely catching because I had trouble with the mech hitting the glass and not functioning correctly.
Thanks. Slimer actually catches in the middle of the Empire State Building and does to go near or touch the antenna that was broken on mine.
Slimer looks like he is rigidly attached to the bar and not dangling. If he were dangling, he would not hit against the building.
Quoted from hedghog:Have not tried to disable, will try this and see.. But it is not only scolari droptargets, its the other modes coming on like terror dog hurry up and book stacking... All of what i understand is from hitting right captive ball / sw46...
Is that switch stuck "on" all the time? That would make it so it doesn't register from vibration (it's already on), but would probably cause game issues. If you pull the target AWAY from the back leaf in switch test mode, does it register (from coming un-stuck)?
Quoted from mbelofsky:Thanks. Slimer actually catches in the middle of the Empire State Building and does to go near or touch the antenna that was broken on mine.
Slimer looks like he is rigidly attached to the bar and not dangling. If he were dangling, he would not hit against the building.
Can you post a video of the behavior? Are you on a LE/Prem or a pro? I'm assuming Le/Prem... It's hard to dial in slimer. Stern seemed ok with my slimer grazing the buildings on the left side.
Quoted from gweempose:On some games, it fires the ball too hard and it gets hung up on the gate behind Stay Puft. There are a couple ways to address this. You can change out the auto-plunger spring to a higher tension one. This will reduce the velocity of the ball. Another option is to install a piece of plastic that helps to guide the ball downward after it leaves the shooter lane. There is a Pinsider that custom makes these, but I can't remember who it is.
Right orbit protector.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protector
Quoted from mbelofsky:Thanks. Slimer actually catches in the middle of the Empire State Building and does to go near or touch the antenna that was broken on mine.
Slimer looks like he is rigidly attached to the bar and not dangling. If he were dangling, he would not hit against the building.
could you take some pictures or a video showing what the problem looks like?
Warning for others: my Scarlotti Bros targets would not respond to direct hits (common issue), so I bought the "fix kit" on PinballLife.com, with two tighter springs.
They were so tight that the first time I triggered it, it broke the piece of flimsy plastic that lets the target stay up - across the top of the mounting (the "lip" of the drop target sits on it when it's all the way up).
I should have just kept fussing with shortening the existing spring...
As an aside - anyone know how to replace that bit of black plastic, other than contacting Stern?
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:As an aside - anyone know how to replace that bit of black plastic, other than contacting Stern?
Is your game still under warranty? If so, just call Stern and they'll send you out a new piece. If it's not under warranty, I'd still call Stern. They may very well send you one for free anyway. They generally have very good customer service.
Quoted from GoDFaDDa:Warning for others: my Scarlotti Bros targets would not respond to direct hits (common issue), so I bought the "fix kit" on PinballLife.com, with two tighter springs.
They were so tight that the first time I triggered it, it broke the piece of flimsy plastic that lets the target stay up - across the top of the mounting (the "lip" of the drop target sits on it when it's all the way up).
I should have just kept fussing with shortening the existing spring...
As an aside - anyone know how to replace that bit of black plastic, other than contacting Stern?
You can just make one from a piece of plastic you may have around that's angled. I just cut one I had around drilled a couple holes in it and it worked fine. The one I made is slightly thicker plastic, too, so it's held up better.
Anyone know where to get the part that lowers the height of the PKE shot so it can actually make it up that ramp? And I had a little spring pop out of my flipper button and I can't find that either. Anyone know that part number?
Quoted from cscmtp:Anyone know where to get the part that lowers the height of the PKE shot so it can actually make it up that ramp? And I had a little spring pop out of my flipper button and I can't find that either. Anyone know that part number?
It's just a hex spacer nut. Someone posted the exact height one with the part number, but it's basically about 1/8" shorter than the one in there now. I just grabbed one out of my pinball orphaned parts drawer that worked fine. Once that change is made, that shot is WAY better, though. Substantially less rejects.
Quoted from PinMonk:It's just a hex spacer nut. Someone posted the exact height one with the part number, but it's basically about 1/8" shorter than the one in there now. I just grabbed one out of my pinball orphaned parts drawer that worked fine. Once that change is made, that shot is WAY better, though. Substantially less rejects.
Right, I recall the original is 2" and the replacement is optional at 1-7/8" or 1-3/4" . The 1-7/8" makes a big difference. The 1-3/4" the ball seems to rocket through the wire-form. The part is called a hex spacer or hex standoff I believe its a 6-32 , but you can check it before ordering one. I ordered a few lengths from pinball life shortly after getting my GB Premium.
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