Quoted from txstargazer3:My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?
If it doesn't come UP, the coil may be broken. Have you tried it in coil test mode?
Quoted from txstargazer3:My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?
If it doesn't come UP, the coil may be broken. Have you tried it in coil test mode?
Quoted from txstargazer3:My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?
Start in test mode and see if it goes up. If not you’ll want to physically look to see if the coil is wired and working
Quoted from txstargazer3:My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?
Does it not come up at all or does it not stay up? When I tried the PBL springs, one of mine would pop up and drop immediately.
i've replaced mine with PBL, but the right one wouldn't stay up so I went and put the Stern one in and it seems to be working fine, but time will tell.
Quoted from gweempose:In my experience, the PBL springs are too strong. I did the same as you. I took about 5-6 loops off the factory springs and they have worked perfectly ever since.
Thank you for posting this. I was bored enough last night to try this out and it worked great. Since I got the game I have had to make a glancing shot to the left brother to get the target to go down and have subconsciously hated that mode because of it, now that I did this it goes down every time and I actually look forward to the mode
Quoted from Schwaggs:Does it not come up at all or does it not stay up? When I tried the PBL springs, one of mine would pop up and drop immediately.
Quoted from 3pinballs:i've replaced mine with PBL, but the right one wouldn't stay up so I went and put the Stern one in and it seems to be working fine, but time will tell.
On coil test, it pops up nice and strong but immediately goes back down. I am going to remove the PBL springs on that Scoleri Brother and replace them with the originals (which, fortunately, I saved) and report back later tonight.
Quoted from txstargazer3:On coil test, it pops up nice and strong but immediately goes back down. I am going to remove the PBL springs on that Scoleri Brother and replace them with the originals (which, fortunately, I saved) and report back later tonight.
There should be a small plastic ledge that the flipper hangs on to stay up. That may have broken on that target. Stern changed them around Game of Thrones to be paper thin, so they break much easier than older ones that would work for decades on location with thousands of plays. Not sure if they made them thicker again for GB.
Quoted from PinMonk:There should be a small plastic ledge that the flipper hangs on to stay up. That may have broken on that target. Stern changed them around Game of Thrones to be paper thin, so they break much easier than older ones that would work for decades on location with thousands of plays. Not sure if they made them thicker again for GB.
They don't look particularly thin om my GB, so I think they must have changed back.
Returning to the original spring has solved the problem. If I have issues in the future, I think I will just move the spring about 3 or 4 loops tighter.
Quoted from PinMonk:There should be a small plastic ledge that the flipper hangs on to stay up. That may have broken on that target. Stern changed them around Game of Thrones to be paper thin, so they break much easier than older ones that would work for decades on location with thousands of plays. Not sure if they made them thicker again for GB.
Quoted from Spelunk71:One of my ledges broke early on. Stern sent me a new one, but it looks like they’ve continued to cheap out on that part.
I know that comparing the broken GoT one to the ones that came before, it was almost paper thin at the bottom, and not much thicker at the top - bendable. SUBSTANTIALLY less durable than what had been the standard for at least a decade or two.
Quoted from Spelunk71:One of my ledges broke early on. Stern sent me a new one, but it looks like they’ve continued to cheap out on that part.
I had this issue as well... fairly easy fix but I wondered why the part was so thin in the area it broke.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:I had this issue as well... fairly easy fix but I wondered why the part was so thin in the area it broke.
A Stern employee who shall remain nameless told me he/she has been telling the engineers they need to improve the quality of this part—apparently to no avail.
Ok......the switch on the left ramp is still an issue registering shots. I have bent the switch so it does register shots.....but not consistently.
It either:
A) works 75% of the time....then, over time registers less and less
B) bend too much and stops the ball from going down the subway.
Anyone just replace the switch?
This is for the premiun
Quoted from Stones:Ok......the switch on the left ramp is still an issue registering shots. I have bent the switch so it does register shots.....but not consistently.
It either:
A) works 75% of the time....then, over time registers less and less
B) bend too much and stops the ball from going down the subway.
Anyone just replace the switch?
This is for the premiun
Never had a problem with that switch on the Premium I maintain on location. Maybe the one you have is just a weirdly manufactured switch. If you've put all that time into it, I'd just replace the switch.
Quoted from Stones:It either:
A) works 75% of the time....then, over time registers less and less
B) bend too much and stops the ball from going down the subway.
My LE does the same thing, although it starts off working 100 percent and then eventually goes to around 75. Ball has only gotten stuck from a really lucky weak hit after bending, presume this is why the ramp is so steep to prevent?
Next time it happens I’m just replacing the little jerk
Quoted from Stones:Ok......the switch on the left ramp is still an issue registering shots. I have bent the switch so it does register shots.....but not consistently.
It either:
A) works 75% of the time....then, over time registers less and less
B) bend too much and stops the ball from going down the subway.
Anyone just replace the switch?
This is for the premiun
I had the same issue with my premium. Got tired of ef'ing with it and went ahead and replaced it. Kind of a pain in the ass to get to, but well worth the effort. Haven't had a problem since.
It seems like quite a few people have had to replace the switch. I'm a rookie at some of this.........it doesn't like I need to solder? looks like the switch is just held by 2 screws?
Also, double checking...is this the switch I need from Marco?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5199-00 (I know I need to order the new part number)
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:My LE does the same thing, although it starts off working 100 percent and then eventually goes to around 75. Ball has only gotten stuck from a really lucky weak hit after bending, presume this is why the ramp is so steep to prevent?
Next time it happens I’m just replacing the little jerk
If I nail a straight shot up the ramp, the ball goes flying through there....and doesn't register...if the ball halfass goes thru...I'm good...and it registers. Not a great spot where they put the switch...but I just wonder if the switch itself is just junk.....
Mine started doing this recently, after I waxed the playfield and put new balls in. It's just going to fast right now.
I think things will return to normal when the games is less clean and the balls less new.
Quoted from Stones:It seems like quite a few people have had to replace the switch. I'm a rookie at some of this.........it doesn't like I need to solder? looks like the switch is just held by 2 screws?
Also, double checking...is this the switch I need from Marco?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5199-00 (I know I need to order the new part number)
Definitely need to solder. If you don't have a soldering station, let me recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WESD51-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000ARU9PO
Page 45 of the manual says that switch is 180-5209-00.
Quoted from PinMonk:Definitely need to solder. If you don't have a soldering station, let me recommend:
amazon.com link »
Page 45 of the manual says that switch is 180-5209-00.
Thanks man. Ordered the switch today
Have a handful of Airball protectors left.
Left ramp protector....and...right orbit protector.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protector
Quoted from northvibe:It seems a tad low and far from rail.
Can you remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the shooter lane ramp and then just push the ramp closer to the rail? You would then just drill 2 new pilot holes and put the ramp screws back in.
Hi everyone
I just got my Ghostbusters Pro, my first NIB Game. Everything went really well. Setup was absolutely smooth. No ghosting or anything of the like. However, after playing a few games I have noticed the following issues:
1. The autoplunger fires about 50% of the balls into the stay puft. Ball afterwards drops down the right ramp and sometimes sdtm. Not sure if it fires too strong or what's the problem here. There's also some perfectly smooth balls in between.
2. On the first credit, the callout when you hit the start button works fine. On the second credit, it only goes "welcome..." and then seems to be cut off. Which sound kind of odd.
3. When you loose a ball, sometimes the "rhythm" of the sound seems to be off or too fast. It's not bad but just seems a bit strange.
4. Airballs are really bad. I ordered an airball protector. Should minimise the ones from the multiplier standups. Scolari brothers are even worse. They usually jump directly into drain hole. For now I just turned off the scoleris...
So, that's about it. Number 4 is the one I read a lot about in this thread. 1-3 I haven't really found any key posts. So maybe someone has advice to solve the issues? Thanks!
Quoted from philsublime:1. The autoplunger fires about 50% of the balls into the stay puft. Ball afterwards drops down the right ramp and sometimes sdtm. Not sure if it fires too strong or what's the problem here. There's also some perfectly smooth balls in between.
This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.
Could somebody explain the shoot logic of the stay puft mode. I understand each mode, but not this one.
Quoted from gweempose:This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.
Thank you, I found it. Hope it helps!
Quoted from philsublime:Thank you, I found it. Hope it helps!
also removing mylar near the right gate entrance will assist in solving this problem and non registering of the gate switch
Quoted from philsublime:Hi everyone
I just got my Ghostbusters Pro, my first NIB Game. Everything went really well. Setup was absolutely smooth. No ghosting or anything of the like. However, after playing a few games I have noticed the following issues:
1. The autoplunger fires about 50% of the balls into the stay puft. Ball afterwards drops down the right ramp and sometimes sdtm. Not sure if it fires too strong or what's the problem here. There's also some perfectly smooth balls in between.
Earlier in this thread you can read about the same problems on other GBs. You may need to bend the corner of the gate frame like I did. I filmed mine and watched in slow-mo and could clearly see the ball was ricocheting off of the gate frame and THEN hitting Stay Puft/cabinet wall/etc.
This was from #3012
Quoted from imagamejunky:You guys need to bend the corner of the mechanical gate up. A few guys here have done this (including me). Some have removed the gate completely. It's a really shitty design. If your machines are like the others here on the forum then the ball is bouncing off of the gate frame and then hitting stay puft and the cabinet walls with both the auto launch and a hard plunge. Bending it fixed my machine. It still happens about 5% of the time for me now. It used to happen almost every time before though. A HUGE improvement.
Junky
Quoted from gweempose:This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.
All due respect intended here. I thought the replacement spring was a decreased tension. Maybe I’m wrong.
Quoted from Zora:Could somebody explain the shoot logic of the stay puft mode. I understand each mode, but not this one.
When it starts you hit any shot to light that shot for 1x for the mode. If you hit the Gozer target first before locking in a shot, it will up a shot to 2x. Try locking in the left ramp as it is the easiest and most repeatable shot. Key here is to bring in multipliers since 50 million x2 or x3 then x6 can make your score go through the roof. Hit lit shots and he steps on cars as you progress. You can milk the left ramp for a long time, but not entirely through the mode. Last 3 shots I believe start him on fire and then the final shot to destroy him.
Quoted from LesManley:When it starts you hit any shot to light that shot for 1x for the mode. If you hit the Gozer target first before locking in a shot, it will up a shot to 2x. Try locking in the left ramp as it is the easiest and most repeatable shot. Key here is to bring in multipliers since 50 million x2 or x3 then x6 can make your score go through the roof. Hit lit shots and he steps on cars as you progress. You can milk the left ramp for a long time, but not entirely through the mode. Last 3 shots I believe start him on fire and then the final shot to destroy him.
Thanks for your feedback, highly appreciated. I am not sure that I understand that correctly. Does it mean that the first shot locks this shot and thus repeating this shot will not progress the mode, but increase the score only? After this shot I simply shoot at the other lit targets until stay puft is destroyed. Is that correct?
Why do you choose the left ramp as first shot and not the right orbit, which I think is easier to hit?
Quoted from gweempose:This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.
Quoted from imagamejunky:All due respect intended here. I thought the replacement spring was a decreased tension. Maybe I’m wrong.
The idea is to decrease the velocity of the auto-plunger so the ball doesn't get hung up on the gate. In order to do this, you must use a higher tension spring. You may be thinking of the manual plunger, where a lower tension spring would indeed slow down the ball.
Quoted from beepbeep:I'm having a issue with my right flipper sticking, is any one else having or seen the same issue?
Is it mechanical or electrical? Does the flipper continue to stick even when the game is off?
Quoted from Zora:Thanks for your feedback, highly appreciated. I am not sure that I understand that correctly. Does it mean that the first shot locks this shot and thus repeating this shot will not progress the mode, but increase the score only? After this shot I simply shoot at the other lit targets until stay puft is destroyed. Is that correct?
Why do you choose the left ramp as first shot and not the right orbit, which I think is easier to hit?
First shot locks in the value on that shot. If you upped the value to 2x by hitting the Gozer target, you want to lock in that shot for max value. Repeating the shot does progress the mode, which is why left ramp is easiest. You can hit it over and over again without risk of draining. Right orbit is an easy shot, but you have to get control again usually before shooting it again, so there is a chance to lose the ball. Eventually you will have to hit other shots besides the left ramp if you lock that in, but it is an easy way to progress mostly through the mode before you have to shoot other things.
Quoted from gweempose:Is it mechanical or electrical? Does the flipper continue to stick even when the game is off?
I checked the mechanical part of it and that all looks good. If I continue to push the button too try and get it to break free it will stay in same upright position, it releases itself after a period of 15-20 seconds and on top of it all the flipper will spasm out of know where as if it remembers how many time you push the button previously. It sounds crazy...just trying to find a easy fix without spending $300 on a computer board.
Quoted from beepbeep:I checked the mechanical part of it and that all looks good. If I continue to push the button too try and get it to break free it will stay in same upright position, it releases itself after a period of 15-20 seconds and on top of it all the flipper will spasm out of know where as if it remembers how many time you push the button previously. It sounds crazy...just trying to find a easy fix without spending $300 on a computer board.
Get it to stick with the PF up and see if it's hanging up on the EOS switch. Physically catching on a bent EOS is pretty common and easy to fix.
Quoted from txstargazer3:My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?
This exact thing happened to me, just stretch the PBL spring slightly and you will be all good. The PBL springs are a little much for that left drop target coil.
Quoted from gweempose:Is it mechanical or electrical? Does the flipper continue to stick even when the game is off?
the flipper does not stick when powered down. falls too it's normal position
Auto launch, hard launch, ramp jump into Stay Puff fix for me this seemed to really clean up all my issues.
The ball goes up V in the ramp, then the ramp goes smooth.... on the smooth section "at times" it hits the orbit tab circled in my pics!!! Since the ball still has forward momentum when it hits the right tab, it bounces off the tab is forced left and hits the Stay Puff marshmallow man or gate, or back wall!
Let me start off and say I have metal outlanes, see pic. Wood guys you might have to dremel some wood out.
Next I used a flat head screw driver to bend the right orbit back inwards and made it flush for as smooth transition, 10 games or so and much improved, no hits on Stay Puff so far.
sorry but in the pics I already fixed it, but it was sticking out enough to cause the ball to hit right metal orbit tab and send it flying left into Stay Puff
ramp fix (resized).jpg
Metal was an easy fix, just bend it from the back side, see the first pic showing the metal outlane rail.
rampfix2 (resized).jpg
See here its flush or a bit more inside so the ball doesn't catch and send it flying left in to SPM.
rampfix3 (resized).JPG
Quoted from gweempose:This one can be mitigated by swapping out the auto-plunger spring with a higher tension one. If you search this thread you will find a link to the proper spring.
So I put the new spring in. It seems like it helped a little bit. But I still have lots of auto plunges that hit the SPM or the backboard plastic. I don't think the shots hit the gate as described by someone else. I think they are too much on the left and hit the metal rail underneath the SPM.
Also, sometimes when I short plunge, it directly starts who brought the dog. In this situations it also sounds like it hit something...
Quoted from philsublime:Also, sometimes when I short plunge, it directly starts who brought the dog. In this situations it also sounds like it hit something...
This is a common GB problem that means the switch in your shooter lane is not registering or only registering intermittently. DO NOT TEST WITH YOUR FINGER. Go into switch test mode and manually eject a ball into the shooter lane and see if it triggers the switch.
Quoted from PinMonk:This is a common GB problem that means the switch in your shooter lane is not registering or only registering intermittently. DO NOT TEST WITH YOUR FINGER. Go into switch test mode and manually eject a ball into the shooter lane and see if it triggers the switch.
This is the switch right at the plunger, I guess. I'll try it. So this one must be triggered in order for the machine to know where the ball comes from when it triggers the right outlane switch? Is that it? Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob...
I guess when it comes to the ball firing into the SPM and backboard, I need to set up a camera and film it in slow motion.
Quoted from philsublime:This is the switch right at the plunger, I guess. I'll try it. So this one must be triggered in order for the machine to know where the ball comes from when it triggers the right outlane switch? Is that it? Sorry, I'm a bit of a noob...
I guess when it comes to the ball firing into the SPM and backboard, I need to set up a camera and film it in slow motion.
Yes. It's the one just above the tip of the shooter rod. If that isn't triggered when the ball is kicked out, then the machine doesn't know the ball came from the shooter lane and assumes you made the shot that starts "who brought the dog?" instead.
Quoted from philsublime:So I put the new spring in. It seems like it helped a little bit. But I still have lots of auto plunges that hit the SPM or the backboard plastic. I don't think the shots hit the gate as described by someone else. I think they are too much on the left and hit the metal rail underneath the SPM.
Also, sometimes when I short plunge, it directly starts who brought the dog. In this situations it also sounds like it hit something...
^^^^I posted some pics about tab.
The ball goes up V in the ramp, then the ramp goes smooth.... on the smooth section "at times" it hits the orbit tab circled in my pics!!! Since the ball still has forward momentum when it hits the right tab, it bounces off the tab is forced left to the left and hits the Stay Puff marshmallow man or gate, or back wall!
Played about 50 games, smooth as glass.
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