I just adjusted mine. It pretty difficult to find the sweet spot where it's not over or under sensitive. I think I adjusted #8. Lots of trial and error.

I just bought a GB pro, and I have been looking at all of the threads of issues. Is there a list of mod's I should do day one? I say the list for the LE, but I know the list would be different for my machine. I've bought Cliffy's, and the Williams leg plates, but I want to do everything I can.

If this is the wrong thread for this, I apologize in advance.

Thanks!

Was the Pro new? Because one or two of the fixes won’t apply to a new one recently manufacturered.

Yes, just bought about two weeks ago, currently its sitting in my garage still crated up. I am hoping to get it in the basement this weekend.

Thank you for your input. I performed a continuity checks from the opto board and motor control board to the node8 board and it checked out fine. I then verified with my multimeter that the opto board is getting its 5DC amps. I also pulled the opto board out and put the machine in active switch test mode and put a plastic poker chip in the sensor gap but no 'switch' was detected. I then tried the two other boards and they have the same behavior. Je suis un peu frustré.

You must be frustrated, you're speaking french!

Now I'm stumped...

I got my slime adjusted and working perfectly. So I go to play a game tonight, and the left ramp (LE) only returns to the right insane 50% of the time.

When I put the ball at the top of the ramp near the switch, it will go under the playfield and come back out every time. But when I play the game and I shoot the ball, it only comes back up 50% of the time. The ball gets close to the top where it comes out, loses all steam and rolls right back out. My game is perfectly leveled.

The ball should...
A: Shoot straight through
B: stop down inside, and then you see a response on the DMD of ball-lock or the red light flashes and shoots the ball out often times with a call-out from Ernie.

If the ball bobs around inside, it usually means the subway is not centered under the playfield.
Lif the playfield, loosen the screws and re-align, test again. repeat as needed to affect its behavior.
The ball bob will almost always cause a ball search if it does not settle down quickly.

Bug: V1.13
- The SUBWAY EJECT ball saver no longer overrides the main ball saver if set to the default time or less.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-v113-bugs-and-features#post-3549386

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/57#post-3697169

Hope this helps.

Not centered.....I didn’t even think of that. I’ll try it tonight...thanks!

Anyone with a GB pro who can tell me the resistance of the slimer motor (with the connector disconnected from the small pcb)? Partnr is 041-5111-00

Trying to wade thru thread.....the first few pages are just painful.....lol

Need some help here. The super jack pot doesnt always register on the left ramp. The switch tests find in test mode. Can a person bend the switch a bit?

Bend it, I had the same problem. Registers every time now.

Yep. Carefully bend the actuator arm out just a little bit. I had the same problem as well.

Perfect....i will try it tonight.....thanks fellas!

Success! I finally have slimer rotating back and forth. I had the opto board off and was testing it with my multimeter to check that the optos were triggering and they were. I reinstalled it and went into switch test mode. Chas says he usually tests the opto with a coin, so I thought I would try that instead of my poker chip. Anyway, I was getting no response to the coin, so I tried a couple of other switches to make sure I could test an opto switch. I dropped a Scoleri brothers target and it triggered. Then when I was moving the opto board around it triggered! I was shocked. It then started responding to the coin test. Long story short, make sure all your wires are firmly seated in the molex connector! (I can't believe it took me this long to figure it out) Thank you, everyone for your advise and assistance. Hopefully, this will prove useful to someone else.

While the end solution did not ultimately come from Chas at Stern or Trent from Tilt Amusements, they both were very supportive and gave me a lot of things to try. Now, I have to send back all those extra parts Chas sent me. The next step was that they were going to send a tech out to look at it.

I think I found my problem with the left ramp going under the playfield. I would appreciate if anyone can take a quick peak at their game to confirm the proper way I should fix this.

The red arrow, shows the metal ramp on the inside of the plastic return ramp. The orange arrow, shows the other side of the metal ramp on the outside of the return plastic. I think what it happening, is the ball is sometimes catching the plastic where the orange arrow is, thus slowing it down and now it can't make it back up the plastic return ramp.

I believe the correct way for the installation is how it looks at the red arrow. Can anyone take a look and confirm?

Thanks

IMG_2744 (resized).jpg

Great job! its the little things we over look especially when we are not actually looking at it. I never trust those "poke and hope" connectors, but I forgot they were used in that spot.

Well that's wrong... I did not have to look to know that's an issue, but I took a photo anyway. Here you go.
All the rail bars should be inside the hole.

20171205_075840 (resized).jpg

I figured that was the correct way...just wanted to be 100% sure.

I can’t believe they couldn’t install it correctly at the factory.

Yep. The worker who did that must have been drunk or something.

it happens

My playfield was probably assembled on a Monday.

So I adjusted the ramp to have all the rail bars on the inside of the plastic. Works much better, but I still get shots that don't make it all the way back up.

On my old playfield, the ball would make it back up 100% of the time. On the new playfield, it's 80% of the time. I tried adjusting the plastic underneath, but there's no play in it.

The only other thing I could think it is, is maybe the wire form isn't tight enough and the ball is rattling side to side, causing the ball to lose velocity.

Received a new motor driver board pcb and that fixed the issue! Tx to Stern for the support.

iphone recording the ball dropping in in slo-mo mode may help you see what's going on.

How do I do that?

Just go to the camera and swipe over to "slo-mo" then hit record. You'll need to put the phone in an orientation where it has a clear shot of the chute and then you can just manually send balls over the ramp and let them drop in. You might want to put a flashlight UNDER the playfield so you can see all the way down when the balls go in.

See if that helps you diagnose it.

Thank you!!!

Posted in the club forum and here since its applicable.

Kits ordered from Stern today. Super fast response from Chas.

You can email your request to [email protected]

Include your serial #, your name, and address.

Hopefully, you registered your machine with Stern.
Not sure if not registering matters, but the 2 times I've called Stern, they asked for my serial #.

SPI part number 502-7061-00. ( for nodes 8 and 9)
Capacitor Service Kit 502-7060-00 ( for nodes 8 and 9)

Chas responded same day that the order is in the works and will be on the way.

http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-189-core-node-stabilization/2235/Stern-SB189.pdf

http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-190-core-node-capacitor-service/2236/Stern-SB190.pdf

Same here, ordered in morning and Chaz responded by dinner time saying he will send kits out.

I received my service bulletin kits today. Looks like the S/B for 190 is short 1 assembly. Anyone else have this issue? I thought I read that Node 8 and 9 need these.

Do all GB get the SB? If so I need to call my distro....

only early production Late runs no but have attached both links:
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-189-core-node-stabilization/2235/Stern-SB189.pdf
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/service-bulletins/service-bulletin-190-core-node-capacitor-service/2236/Stern-SB190revB.pdf

Thank you for the links! I have a 1st run premium, so I'll hit my distro up. Haven't had an issue yet but it doesn't get much play.

That happen to me also, called stern and they are shipping me one. So give them a call

Thanks, I emailed Chaz and he is going to take care of it.

Are we suppose to get 2 capacitors? I only received one? the document says node 8 and 9 though?

Yes you need two. Their service bulletin kits were revised to have two per kit, but the early ones only had one.

Check the switch. Several people have reported that one of the tiny little screws popped out and it was loose.

It's not a code issue, it's the switch. Adjust it. It's a known issue. KISS has it on the left scoop too, after a while.

Back in stock folks - protectors.

Get one for your game or get a spare!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protector

Did you find a fix? My GB just started doing this, i checked the alignment of everything and made some adjustments but the problem persists.

I couldn't figure out how to make it work 100% of the time.

I just live with an occasional ball not making it back up. It isn't the end of the world.

I don't remember where I saw it, but it seems like people were adjusting something under the playfield that was causing the ball to slow. Some minor tweak to stop the ball from losing momentum.

I have no idea why I suffered so long with the Scoleri Brothers targets. I tried the PBL springs but the targets never stayed up so I put it back to stock and suffered with them bricking shots and trying to hit them with a glance.

A friend of mine came over the other night and convinced me to try pulling the stock springs up and hooking them back on 4-5 loops up. They work like a charm now!

PSA - Don't suffer with bad drop targets. Make the change now!

In my experience, the PBL springs are too strong. I did the same as you. I took about 5-6 loops off the factory springs and they have worked perfectly ever since.

My left side Scoleri Brother doesn't come up. The right one works fine. Both have the PBL springs. What do you suggest for the left one?