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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,465 posts
  • 526 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 days ago by cpr9999
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders

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55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4465 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 90.
#3501 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

While installing the metal apron/arch to my GB Premium, one of the front flexible screw fasteners (attaching to nut through drilled hole in the playfield) broke off. I have not been able to find this part. Does anyone know if the apron can be repaired and what the correct part is? Thanks.

Its been awhile but as I recall the bolt is flat on 1 end and riveted or bolted to the apron. I would call stern to see if the will send you one. If not check the specialty parts bins at your local Menards or similar. They might have an item like that. Last option is use an eye bolt with correct size.

#3502 3 years ago

Thanks very much, Chuck. I’ll give that a shot.

#3503 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

While installing the metal apron/arch to my GB Premium, one of the front flexible screw fasteners (attaching to nut through drilled hole in the playfield) broke off. I have not been able to find this part. Does anyone know if the apron can be repaired and what the correct part is? Thanks.

Post a pic so we don't have to take ours apart to figure it out for you - help us help you!

#3504 3 years ago

I've got my replacement playfield for my Ghostbusters Premium. I hooked it back up and was running the diagnostics. I fixed most of the issues, but the Slimer motor test cannot seem to find 'home' and just rotates all the way to the end stop and you can hear the motor keep running. I swear I remember seeing a post about it, but I can't find it. Can you help me out?

#3505 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Post a pic so we don't have to take ours apart to figure it out for you - help us help you!

What, you mean you guys haven’t memorized the specs for every piece of hardware in the game?
Seriously, you’re right...pics would have been helpful. Attached is the screw/eye that attaches to the apron and a couple of pics of the apron, though the small size made a great pic kind of tough. I’d appreciate any help in identifying the correct fastener. Thanks.

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#3506 3 years ago

How about drilling the rivet out of the old screw and bolting it back on the apron with a small screw and nylon lock nut?

I suspect that bolt may not be sold separately, only with a new apron.

#3507 3 years ago

Thanks. That should work, but the challenge will be to find a lock nut small enough to fit through the hole in the playfield so the apron sits flush.

#3508 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

What, you mean you guys haven’t memorized the specs for every piece of hardware in the game?
Seriously, you’re right...pics would have been helpful. Attached is the screw/eye that attaches to the apron and a couple of pics of the apron, though the small size made a great pic kind of tough. I’d appreciate any help in identifying the correct fastener. Thanks.

Hey buddy its all there but the rivet. Remove the broken rivet and re_rivet or if you have to.... You can use a small machine screw, nut, & washer. I. had assumed the bolt was broken.

#3509 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Thanks. That should work, but the challenge will be to find a lock nut small enough to fit through the hole in the playfield so the apron sits flush.

That doesn't sound right. The screw+nut replace the rivet. The lock nut won't pass through the playfield. It just secures the the bolt to the apron allowing the bolt to stick down in the play field. The original nut goes under the playfield.

#3510 3 years ago

You can drill out the remaining part of the broken rivet from the bolt. Once you drill it out, use the drill bit or a vice grips to hold the old bolt steady while you remove the nylon lock nut. Reattach the bolt to your apron with a new screw and nut, replacing the rivet that broke off. Place the apron back on the PF and use the nylon lock nuts to bolt the apron back on as usual.

#3511 3 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Thanks. That should work, but the challenge will be to find a lock nut small enough to fit through the hole in the playfield so the apron sits flush.

A #6 screw and nut should be small enough.

#3512 3 years ago

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the help.

#3513 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

You can drill out the remaining part of the broken rivet from the bolt. Once you drill it out, use the drill bit or a vice grips to hold the old bolt steady while you remove the nylon lock nut. Reattach the bolt to your apron with a new screw and nut, replacing the rivet that broke off. Place the apron back on the PF and use the nylon lock nuts to bolt the apron back on as usual.

Thumbs up on this! It should be pretty straight forward. I took something similar to a local machine shop to be riveted back together. They told me it would be a minimum of $90, so I hit the hardware store on the way home and spent about $2 on the screws, lock washers, and nylon nuts to fix it and had it done in 10 minutes. Good luck!

#3514 3 years ago

I was wondering how you can tell you have a good cabinet (no risk for it to split) when you want to buy a huo ghostbuster.
From what build date was this covered at Stern or what did they change?
I now star wars (le?) has a corner bracket and the stronger leg plates), but how about this title?

#3515 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I was wondering how you can tell you have a good cabinet (no risk for it to split) when you want to buy a huo ghostbuster.
From what build date was this covered at Stern or what did they change?
I now star wars (le?) has a corner bracket and the stronger leg plates), but how about this title?

Can you post a picture of SW bracket?

#3517 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

I was wondering how you can tell you have a good cabinet (no risk for it to split) when you want to buy a huo ghostbuster.
From what build date was this covered at Stern or what did they change?
I now star wars (le?) has a corner bracket and the stronger leg plates), but how about this title?

Just look at the condition, if its split or going to split, you should see it in the corners there.

#3518 3 years ago

i cant find attract mode.
where is it in menu?

it fine. found out it only does from flippers. wish it called out though.

#3519 3 years ago

Has anyone with a Premium/LE had their slimer motor stop working? I can't even get it to register hits in game, but the switch test recognizes when I manually hit him. Calibrating the motor doesn't seem to do anything, and the motor test doesn't move it using the service buttons. I'm not sure what to try next... it was working great until this evening.

#3520 3 years ago
Quoted from Sirphobos:

Has anyone with a Premium/LE had their slimer motor stop working? I can't even get it to register hits in game, but the switch test recognizes when I manually hit him. Calibrating the motor doesn't seem to do anything, and the motor test doesn't move it using the service buttons. I'm not sure what to try next... it was working great until this evening.

Blown fuse?

#3521 3 years ago
Quoted from Sirphobos:

Has anyone with a Premium/LE had their slimer motor stop working? I can't even get it to register hits in game, but the switch test recognizes when I manually hit him. Calibrating the motor doesn't seem to do anything, and the motor test doesn't move it using the service buttons. I'm not sure what to try next... it was working great until this evening.

Node 8 board connections? You could try reseating the connectors on Node 8

#3522 3 years ago

Fuse location? Node 8 board?

I'm hoping this is all it is, when manually moving the arm, the position numbers don't increase or decrease in test mode, but I see indicators blinking on the dmd as though it knows the arm is moving.

Edit: fuses tested good. Connectors checked. Truly think it's the motor.

#3523 3 years ago

Few protectors left. Ramp and right orbit.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-airball-air-ball-right-orbit-protector

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#3524 3 years ago

What was the fix for slimer on the pro? It's not registering hits (almost none) during the game but works during switch test. This is the original slimer that came with the game which I got in March of this year. Might be a nov 2016 build.

Thanks.

#3525 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

What was the fix for slimer on the pro? It's not registering hits (almost none) during the game but works during switch test. This is the original slimer that came with the game which I got in March of this year. Might be a nov 2016 build.
Thanks.

Are you sure its the original slimer? I have a Sept 2016 Premium with 2nd gen slimer.

The official fix is to upgrade to Slimer 2.0 which Stern will provide through your distributor.
See john's arcade for the install.

Chuck

#3526 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Are you sure its the original slimer? I have a Sept 2016 Premium with 2nd gen slimer.
The official fix is to upgrade to Slimer 2.0 which Stern will provide through your distributor.
See john's arcade for the install.
» YouTube video
Chuck

Original in terms of it's the one that came with my GB - I never changed it. Whether it's the newest one, I don't know.

So is '2nd gen slimer' considered the 2.0 version?

I will call disto today.

#3527 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Original in terms of it's the one that came with my GB - I never changed it. Whether it's the newest one, I don't know.
So is '2nd gen slimer' considered the 2.0 version?
I will call disto today.

Yes the original slimers has some problems and they changed some things on it and made it better.

#3528 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Original in terms of it's the one that came with my GB - I never changed it. Whether it's the newest one, I don't know.
So is '2nd gen slimer' considered the 2.0 version?
I will call disto today.

You can tell which slimer you have by watching John's video. The top (connection) is different amoung other things.

#3529 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

You can tell which slimer you have by watching John's video. The top (connection) is different amoung other things.

Based on the video I do have the newest one. What should I do now? Still contact distributor?

Note: It works in switch test mode when slimmer is up. I saw in the video it's possible to test while it's down using SLIM test to lower it and then go to switch test mode. I can give that a try when I get home. Probably won't matter either way.

Thanks.

#3530 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Based on the video I do have the newest one. What should I do now? Still contact distributor?
Note: It works in switch test mode when slimmer is up. I saw in the video it's possible to test while it's down using SLIM test to lower it and then go to switch test mode. I can give that a try when I get home. Probably won't matter either way.
Thanks.

Well no need to contact the distro since you have the new one.
The switch works as you tested it.
Next you need to make sure the switch is closed when slimer is at rest.
But the switch needs to open when a ball hits slimer.
The manual test needs to use a ball.

Adjusting....
While adjusting... Make the steel cable "just touch" metal ring in front.
This is a normally closed switch.

When the ball hits slimer the cable will move away from the ring's edge and open the switch.
If slimer to pressed too tight against the rings edge, it wont open with the ball.
You need to adjust the series of plates on top of slimer-mech so the cable moves away from the ring and then move back so the cable just contacts the plate. test with a ball in play mode.

#3531 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Well no need to contact the distro since you have the new one.
The switch works as you tested it.
Next you need to make sure the switch is closed when slimer is at rest.
But the switch needs to open when a ball hits slimer.
The manual test needs to use a ball.
Adjusting....
While adjusting... Make the steel cable "just touch" metal ring in front.
This is a normally closed switch.
When the ball hits slimer the cable will move away from the ring's edge and open the switch.
If slimer to pressed too tight against the rings edge, it wont open with the ball.
You need to adjust the series of plates on top of slimer-mech so the cable moves away from the ring and then move back so the cable just contacts the plate. test with a ball in play mode.

This is what I found during testing...

It works every time in switch test mode when slimer is up. When it is down it works about 1 in 10. Here is the thing, when I take the ball and roll it at slimer or use my finger and flick him straight back it doesn't register. If I take my finger and just move it back a fraction - but hold it back for a split second longer, it works every time. So it would seem to be a timing issue where as the break in the connection is too short to register. Soft ball rolls work every time.

I have no idea how to fix that.

#3532 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I have no idea how to fix that.

Sell it to me. That will be the end of that.

#3533 3 years ago

Regarding the original Slimer design on the Pros, has Stern now decided to replace them with the new design? Last I remember hearing they released the new design but told previous owners that they wouldn't replace the older model.

I tweaked my older model and it works pretty good, but the new design would be preferable if they'd ship me one.

#3534 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Regarding the original Slimer design on the Pros, has Stern now decided to replace them with the new design? Last I remember hearing they released the new design but told previous owners that they wouldn't replace the older model.
I tweaked my older model and it works pretty good, but the new design would be preferable if they'd ship me one.

watch the johns arcade video, call your distributor. Stern should replace them if you ask.
The process is you will get a new slimer, you send back the old slimer or your credit card will be charged for the slimer.

#3535 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

This is what I found during testing...
It works every time in switch test mode when slimer is up. When it is down it works about 1 in 10. Here is the thing, when I take the ball and roll it at slimer or use my finger and flick him straight back it doesn't register. If I take my finger and just move it back a fraction - but hold it back for a split second longer, it works every time. So it would seem to be a timing issue where as the break in the connection is too short to register. Soft ball rolls work every time.
I have no idea how to fix that.

It sounds to me like the steel cable is pressing too hard on the inner ring contact which makes it harder to break contact.
The steel cable should be barely touching the inner ring so it can break contact easily with just a tap.
Also.. you do need to 'hit' slimer. he should not register a hit if the ball brushes or bumps into him.
It needs to be a real strike on the green-guy.

#3536 3 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

It sounds to me like the steel cable is pressing too hard on the inner ring contact which makes it harder to break contact.
The steel cable should be barely touching the inner ring so it can break contact easily with just a tap.
Also.. you do need to 'hit' slimer. he should not register a hit if the ball brushes or bumps into him.
It needs to be a real strike on the green-guy.

I don't know it that is the issue because I can take my finger and move slimer a hair, but hold it for a split second longer, and let go and it registers.

How do I adjust the cable back a little? I assume I have to take the whole thing apart. Here are a few pics of how it currently sits.

IMG_3162 (resized).jpg

IMG_3160 (resized).jpg

IMG_3165 (resized).jpg

#3537 3 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I don't know it that is the issue because I can take my finger and move slimer a hair, but hold it for a split second longer, and let go and it registers.
How do I adjust the cable back a little? I assume I have to take the whole thing apart. Here are a few pics of how it currently sits.

Its basically right, I cannot tell if slimer is actually touching the ring or not in those photos.
slimer mech2 (resized).jpg

#3538 2 years ago
Quoted from Sirphobos:

Fuse location? Node 8 board?
I'm hoping this is all it is, when manually moving the arm, the position numbers don't increase or decrease in test mode, but I see indicators blinking on the dmd as though it knows the arm is moving.
Edit: fuses tested good. Connectors checked. Truly think it's the motor.

update on this, the motor was the culprit. Stern sent a new motor, driver board, and encoder board.

#3539 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Its basically right, I cannot tell if slimer is actually touching the ring or not in those photos.

I played around with part 8 in different positions until the sensitivity seemed right. It's much better now, if anything, it's slightly easier then it was before I started have problems. I'm ok with that.

Thank you.

#3540 2 years ago

Help please:

Ghostbusters premium getting a subway lockup error, game has difficulty ejecting ball from subway...goes into ball search mode and most times does not eject ball...

Thanks

#3541 2 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Help please:
Ghostbusters premium getting a subway lockup error, game has difficulty ejecting ball from subway...goes into ball search mode and most times does not eject ball...
Thanks

I never had a problem with mine. Did you do anything to the game before this started or did it just start on its own?

Look in the scoop popper assembly for a foreign object (screw, light bulb, etc) that might be blocking the popper action.

#3542 2 years ago

Did not change anything to game and all looks clear....

#3543 2 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Help please:
Ghostbusters premium getting a subway lockup error, game has difficulty ejecting ball from subway...goes into ball search mode and most times does not eject ball...
Thanks

Some people had this issue long ago. The subway under the playfield was misaligned.
Make sure everything is centered under the playfield for the subway track and check the diverter to be sure its working right .

#3544 2 years ago

Howdy all.. I have a strange problem with my LE. I had a new playfield fitted 5 months ago and put 50 games on it with no issues.
So after not playing it for 2 or so months fired it up and all is well until Slimer (ghost target) is hit. The machine locks up and the sound starts cutting out then the machine resets.
Slimer does not work (swing out) in test. I have disabled Slimer and no resets.
I have checked all the wiring and plugs, all o.k
So.. is this a node board issue?
Has anyone had this happen to thier machine?
Thanks in advance. 

#3545 2 years ago

My left drop down target is making a clicking sound while playing a game. I went into the coil test menu and was able to recreate the clicking noise. The down switch keeps on activating when the drop down target is already down. Does any buddy know how to fix this. The left drop down target works other than this issue. Any help would be appreciated before I left the playfeild.

#3546 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

Howdy all.. I have a strange problem with my LE. I had a new playfield fitted 5 months ago and put 50 games on it with no issues.
So after not playing it for 2 or so months fired it up and all is well until Slimer (ghost target) is hit. The machine locks up and the sound starts cutting out then the machine resets.
Slimer does not work (swing out) in test. I have disabled Slimer and no resets.
I have checked all the wiring and plugs, all o.k
So.. is this a node board issue?
Has anyone had this happen to thier machine?
Thanks in advance. 

I recommend calling the stern hot line # under your lock down bar. I've never heard of this exact issue but it sounds like a node board.

#3547 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

My left drop down target is making a clicking sound while playing a game. I went into the coil test menu and was able to recreate the clicking noise. The down switch keeps on activating when the drop down target is already down. Does any buddy know how to fix this. The left drop down target works other than this issue. Any help would be appreciated before I left the playfeild.

There's an Opto screwed to the drop target. This tells it if its up/down. Make sure the wires are attached, follow the wire back and re-seat the plug on the node-board. The system is not getting the message that the drop target is down. If the problem persists after checking everything else, the node bd may be the problem, although be sure to consider everything else 1st.

#3548 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

There's an Opto screwed to the drop target. This tells it if its up/down. Make sure the wires are attached, follow the wire back and re-seat the plug on the node-board. The system is not getting the message that the drop target is down. If the problem persists after checking everything else, the node bd may be the problem, although be sure to consider everything else 1st.

Cool now I know what to look for thanks.

#3549 2 years ago

Having a few minor issues with GB Premium.
- ejecting two balls quite often into plunger. First one sometimes doesn’t come out clean which then causes two to come out.
- slimer mechanism. Sometimes, he registers a hit when he isn’t hit. The shaker or a hard hit somewhere else sets it off.
- ball gets caught up too just past the PKE lights on initial plunge. Wasn’t happening before but now seems to happen more often than not.
Thanks for any help on these!

I posted this on forum but was told it might help to post here. Apologize for double post.

#3550 2 years ago
Quoted from wisemanbba:

Having a few minor issues with GB Premium.
- ejecting two balls quite often into plunger. First one sometimes doesn’t come out clean which then causes two to come out.
- slimer mechanism. Sometimes, he registers a hit when he isn’t hit. The shaker or a hard hit somewhere else sets it off.
- ball gets caught up too just past the PKE lights on initial plunge. Wasn’t happening before but now seems to happen more often than not.
Thanks for any help on these!
I posted this on forum but was told it might help to post here. Apologize for double post.

Check your machine is level side to side and 6.5 degrees front to back
Slimer needs to be the version 2 slimer , not the old v1 slimer
Read up higher on how to adjust slimer
Shooter lane eject is a setting in adjustments. If its not getting out, you may need to increase the setting.

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