(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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There are 4339 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 87.
#3101 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Solder underneath Slimer?? I need to see that.
pninja005, Can you show a picture of the butt drag?
I assume you mean over the captive ball, but I need to see it before commenting.
Most people are putting a washer under the rotating arm (loosen set screw raise and tighten) washer is optional, but a good idea.
The washer commonly used is the washer found on shooter rods.

Here are pictures of the solder underneath Slimer. Is this normal? Indeed he touches the black metal plate.

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#3102 2 years ago

What size hex (allen) wrench fits the Slimer to post screw - I've bought 3 sets now and nothing fits

#3103 2 years ago

How do I disable the Scoleri brothers as some have done here?

#3104 2 years ago
Quoted from atariaction:

Need to place an order for Marco for pick up at allentown (today is deadline)
I cant seem to find part numbers for:
Scoleri drop springs
Auto launch spring
Anyone know these off hand? I see the pinball life link for scoleri springs but need to order from Marco. Thanks!

I'd like to know the auto launch spring part number at Marco as well. Anyone?

#3105 2 years ago
Quoted from Mobsync:

I'd like to know the auto launch spring part number at Marco as well. Anyone?

I used the heavy compression spring, Marco part no. 10-437. It works well for me.

#3106 2 years ago
Quoted from Mobsync:

How do I disable the Scoleri brothers as some have done here?

Easy. Just go into the menu and disable both drop targets.

#3107 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Easy. Just go into the menu and disable both drop targets.

Thanks!

#3108 2 years ago

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.

I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

#3109 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.
I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

Thanks for the screw info, I got wedges too but havent gotten around to installing. you just saved me one step, figuring out which screws to buy.

#3110 2 years ago

I am looking for help with my ball save launcher. It keeps dropping below the shooter rod.

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#3111 2 years ago

Can someone explain or link how to adjust a flipper higher?

My left flipper is sitting at least 1/8" lower than the right. Definitely noticeable.

Thanks.

#3112 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Can someone explain or link how to adjust a flipper higher?
My left flipper is sitting at least 1/8" lower than the right. Definitely noticeable.

Thanks.

I think you just loosen the Allen screw and pull it up

#3113 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Can someone explain or link how to adjust a flipper higher?
My left flipper is sitting at least 1/8" lower than the right. Definitely noticeable.
Thanks.

Is the tip pointing higher / lower than the other or is one flipper closer to the playfield than the other. There should be some info in your manual, but there is a nut on the flipper pawl that you have to loosen. Don't back off too far as a little friction will help keep you aligned until you tighten again. You can make a flipper jig out of an old credit card to set the distance from the the playfield. Google for pictures.

#3114 2 years ago
Quoted from scooter75:

the tip pointing higher / lower than the other

This.

I'll take a look underneath.

#3115 2 years ago

this is a drawing that I just quickly found of a Sega flipper mech with the relevant naming on it so the design will be slightly different but the general parts are correct.

Basically loosened the Socket head (Sckt. Hd.) which in turn will loosen the grip on the Flipper Shaft - though take note it will have a tight grip probably already locked into a position. Once this is loose the flipper bat can and will possibly drop down closer to the playfield and it's angle change so before loosening any bolts take note of the angle of the flipper - cut a small cardboard template or use the hole reference in your playfield. Then use possibly 2 credit cards under the flipper to set the height of the flipper. Do a pre swing test to make sure the flipper bat can not swing around and touch the playfield as it needs some clearance (2 credit cards or your preference) - if the bat can touch it is set too low and will wreck your playfield in no time.

hope that helps

deflip1 (resized).png

#3116 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

this is a drawing that I just quickly found of a Sega flipper mech with the relevant naming on it so the design will be slightly different but the general parts are correct.

Thanks. That was perfect - made it very easy.

#3117 2 years ago
Quoted from eg2k83:

I am looking for help with my ball save launcher. It keeps dropping below the shooter rod.

It's not assembled correctly or did the screw head break off? The screw goes through the pivot point (#9).

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#3118 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Hey guys. I installed swinks 4 degree Target Wedges located here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
Installed was simple. FYI You need to purchase (2) 6-32 X 3/4 inches long machine screw to replace the screw on each target.
I try and play tonight to tell you if it made much of a difference.

My original screws worked just fine on the wedges. I found no need for replacement ones.

#3119 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

My original screws worked just fine on the wedges. I found no need for replacement ones.

thanks for sharing, must be marginal - original bolt is ok on some and on other s slightly longer needed

#3120 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.
Anyone else experience this?

I tried the shimming technique which raises Slimer up a bit and I still ended up with some drag. The core issue is that the wire it too long going through Slimer. I ended up just zip-tying up the slack and I haven't had a problem since.

If you look at the picture, I could've reset the crimp on the wire, but the zip tie works even if it is a bit of a hack.

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#3121 2 years ago

Am having real auto plunge problems with my replacement pf. Around 70% of entries rattle around staypuft and roll down the right loop. I don't have problems with manual plunges which could just be me but auto entries are a real pain the watch and listen to.

I have read many responses about replacing the spring but the auto plunger does not utilize the shooter spring. Any ideas on where to look and any possible adjustments you can recommend?

Mylar has been removed from the loop lane.

thanks

#3122 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

My original screws worked just fine on the wedges. I found no need for replacement ones.

Same here, but I installed the wedges to the front of the target and not the back. This retained the full movement of the target contact stroke, the other way required a hard strike to register a hit

#3123 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

I have read many responses about replacing the spring but the auto plunger does not utilize the shooter spring. Any ideas on where to look and any possible adjustments you can recommend?

I think what some people have done is replace the auto shooter spring with a higher tension one. This makes the auto shooter fire the ball more slowly. This is different from replacing the manual plunger spring, which is generally swapped out with a lower tension one.

#3124 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I think what some people have done is replace the auto shooter spring with a higher tension one. This makes the auto shooter fire the ball more slowly. This is different from replacing the manual plunger spring, which is generally swapped out with a lower tension one.

thank you very much, now that makes sense to me. Is that the 10-437 spring? I thought this was the manual shooter spring number...my bad. thanks

#3126 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Same here, but I installed the wedges to the front of the target and not the back. This retained the full movement of the target contact stroke, the other way required a hard strike to register a hit

Can you post a pic of how you installed?

#3127 2 years ago

thank you very much will order one soon

#3128 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Can you post a pic of how you installed?

I just installed them at the other end of the bank of wooden wedges and metal plates. But after a bit of play testing I do not believe they are effective at all. I will test further. It looks like the target deflect back to the 90 degree angle when hit that then will send the balls airborne again. Will get back to you.

#3129 2 years ago

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.

basically 2 install locations

Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.

Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

wedge notes (resized).jpg

#3130 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.
basically 2 install locations
Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.
Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

that will be my next test otherwise I think location 1 will have the best result I think. Thanks for the clarification

#3131 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.
basically 2 install locations
Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.
Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

Logic would indicate to me that this would need to be installed between the bracket and the playfield to pitch the entire switch assembly forward. Have you tried something like that? I would think that just moving the back support wouldn't have any affect on the angle of the switch face therefore the deflection of the ball.

#3132 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Update on my right ramp. I removed the hex spacer that was installed in the game. I installed a 1 5/8" hex spacer and my right ramp works perfectly now. No more shots that roll back down.
On a side note regarding the mylar to the flash lamp. My ghostbusters was LE was built in August and the mylar is already installed on the flash lamp.

What style? female on both ends, or male on one?

#3133 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

I edited a picture that hopefully helps those that need it. I do admit that during the time waiting for refined wedges I installed 1/16" thick white double sided tape (near my thumb) behind the target to firm up the target and reduce the bend back and possible launch of the ball. Then when the wedges came I installed and didn't think to share that minor detail - sorry.
basically 2 install locations
Location 1 - brings the backing plate closer to the switch making it a little more sensitive. Adding the small piece of double sided tape will firm the switch up and reduce the effect of the ball getting airborne. I am playing with this set up and still get the odd minor air ball but not shooting over plastics and lanes etc and the switch is not as sensitive as original so not a given shot.
Location 2 - keeps the switch standard sensitivity but will still allow the target to tilt forward and when hit to bend back to a 90 degree position and possibly allow the ball to get airborne. Adding the tape will firm up and keep the ball / target at less than 90 degrees when hit and should be a improvement on airborne balls.

You have your wedge installed upside down. You want to the target aimed more towards the playfield, not leaning back. Leaning back is why the ball flies in the air. If it's aimed more towards the ground, it keeps it on the field when being hit.

#3134 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

You have your wedge installed upside down. You want to the target aimed more towards the playfield, not leaning back.

I think you are looking at the photo wrong. The way he has the wedge installed would definitely make the target lean forward (towards the flippers).

#3135 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

You have your wedge installed upside down. You want to the target aimed more towards the playfield, not leaning back. Leaning back is why the ball flies in the air. If it's aimed more towards the ground, it keeps it on the field when being hit.

gweempose is correct, I am holding the target upside down as the angle between the mounting bracket and front face of the target is now 86 degrees (as opposed to 90 degrees before being hit) - check out adjusted photo.

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Logic would indicate to me that this would need to be installed between the bracket and the playfield to pitch the entire switch assembly forward. Have you tried something like that? I would think that just moving the back support wouldn't have any affect on the angle of the switch face therefore the deflection of the ball.

I started at this point first but struck 3 problems:
1 - shapeways requires a minimum of 1mm thick so the thinnest part of the wedge is 1mm and this is a contributing factor to point 2
2 - one of the targets mounting brackets sits underneath a led circuit board (on the Pro at least) and it was getting too close for my liking so opted not to.
3 - main reason is it lowers the target and then the ball hits slightly higher on the target and re-introduces the air-ball issue so cancels out any gain as the target has more leverage to tilt the target back and go beyond the 90 degrees = more airballs again - hence the approach I decided to go with.

Also I checked out bally targets say from pinball life and they have about a 5 degree pitch forward compared to Stern's now vertical targets, and the reason I went for 4 degrees is that I am at the limit with 4 degrees before the bolting assembly and angled bolts does a few inconsistent things at 5 degrees with a 5 degree wedge.

wedge notes (resized).jpg

#3136 2 years ago

i'm looking at it correct. The fat part of the wedge should be closest to the plastic face of the target. So it's spaced thinner at the bottom most section. Tilting the target forward towards the mounting screw holes. Actually the wedge should be on the front between the target and the mounting screws. So it leans it forward. This way, it's only leaning the back bracer forward. That isn't going to do much.

#3137 2 years ago

I will say that most of my airballs come from the left 2x target because the left front lip of the ramp flap is just a hair raised, causing the ball to get air before it hits the target . I do have mylar over the ramp flap but need to figure out how to get it smooth.

#3138 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

i'm looking at it correct. The fat part of the wedge should be closest to the plastic face of the target. So it's spaced thinner at the bottom most section. Tilting the target forward towards the mounting screw holes. Actually the wedge should be on the front between the target and the mounting screws. So it leans it forward. This way, it's only leaning the back bracer forward. That isn't going to do much.

agree there is 2 different ways to assembly the wedge and Position 1 probably needs the extra padding to avoid the switch being too sensitive, but whether the wedge goes in front (Position 2) or at the back (Position 1) it tilts the target forward as per the photo.

Your suggestion of turning the wedge 180 degrees so the wider part of the wedge is towards the target that gets hit is wrong ,and will make the angle greater than 90 degrees and increase the chance of air balls.

Lastly Bally / Williams targets are designed with a 5 degree bend tilting the target / switch forward so it does work.

#3139 2 years ago

yea, I worded it wrong. I ment it should stay in that position, but should be in front of the switch not in back. In back doesn't do anything.

#3140 2 years ago

I had a strange air ball thanks to the scoleri brothers. freaked me out. what a good way to stop this?

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#3141 2 years ago
Quoted from ecto1a2003:

I had a strange air ball thanks to the scoleri brothers. freaked me out. what a good way to stop this?

Just bad luck.

#3142 2 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

It's not assembled correctly or did the screw head break off? The screw goes through the pivot point (#9).

What is the easiest way to replace the auto plunger spring? Remove the coil stop via 2 screws or is there a better way? Thanks

#3143 2 years ago
Quoted from ecto1a2003:

I had a strange air ball thanks to the scoleri brothers. freaked me out. what a good way to stop this?

I had a lot of stuck balls in that area. The best way to fix that from happening is ..... Take out both screws that hold that sign on. Move the bottom hole of the sign to the top hole of the bracket. Use just one screw and put the sign back on. Now the sign is high enough that the ball can roll out of there when it goes up there (it will happen a lot). No more stuck balls

#3144 2 years ago

Back on page 55 I asked the question with all the issues if people would recommend still buying a GB... Well, I got my GB Premium & absolutely love it. I've only had a few games and haven't put any of the mods such as the air ball protector etc but have them ready to go on. It seems like a very addictive game & very brutal. I look forward to spending alot of time with this machine and improving on it

#3145 2 years ago
Quoted from packards34:

Back on page 55 I asked the question with all the issues if people would recommend still buying a GB... Well, I got my GB Premium & absolutely love it. I've only had a few games and haven't put any of the mods such as the air ball protector etc but have them ready to go on. It seems like a very addictive game & very brutal. I look forward to spending alot of time with this machine and improving on it

See, aren't you glad that you listened to us?

Everybody laughed at me a long time ago when i said that GB might be Sterns best game ever and that is fine because people have different opinions, but GB is very possibly The coolest game that Stern has ever made! Yes it has its flaws, but it's fun as hell!

#3146 2 years ago

I was over at my buddy's house yesterday, and I played his LE for the first time since I bought my premium. A couple observations:

1) The LE playfields must be made out of a different kind of wood, because his game doesn't have nearly as many dimples as mine.

2) His flippers are exactly the same as mine, where it is difficult to flutter them and do finesse moves. What is it about GB flippers that makes them fundamentally different than other games? It is definitely not a SPIKE thing, as other SPIKE games are fine. I went right from GB to Arrowsmith last night, and the flippers on Arrowsmith were great. Same with Got, KISS, etc ... Did they change something up with the flipper circuitry on GB, realize they made a mistake, and then change back on later games? I truly am stumped on this one.

#3147 2 years ago

Btw, Stern has changed the flipper alignment to normal.

I said it over and over that the flippers are droopy and doesn't play correctly to the design of the field. People here kept saying that's the way it was ment to be because it came from the factory that way. I fixed my flippers so they are setup like all other new sterns. Shots were smoother and cleaner.

NOW:::: fresh from the stern factory. The flippers are coming out, aligned correctly. no more droopy flippers. Friend just bought a new premium and the flippers were setup like mine were.

The marker holes are still in the droopy spot, but they were installed so the holes were aligned with the bottom of the flipper plastic. Stern realized they screwed up and changed it.

#3148 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Btw, Stern has changed the flipper alignment to normal.
I said it over and over that the flippers are droopy and doesn't play correctly to the design of the field. People here kept saying that's the way it was ment to be because it came from the factory that way. I fixed my flippers so they are setup like all other new sterns. Shots were smoother and cleaner.
NOW:::: fresh from the stern factory. The flippers are coming out, aligned correctly. no more droopy flippers. Friend just bought a new premium and the flippers were setup like mine were.
The marker holes are still in the droopy spot, but they were installed so the holes were aligned with the bottom of the flipper plastic. Stern realized they screwed up and changed it.

Do you have a picture of how they're aligned now?

Also, can the power of the flipper coils be reduced? I swear 95% of my airballs are because the flipper strength is way too strong. The ramps could be easily be made with a fraction of that.

#3149 2 years ago

I posted a pic before on how I aligned my flippers. That is the way they are coming out of the factory now as well. All shot patterns are exactly like mine. you can backhand the left ramp with ease. Same with the "who brought the dog" loop.

flipper alignment 3 (resized).jpg

#3150 2 years ago

thank you guys for the auto plunge spring tip and part number. Changed it over and now my gble is playable again. I just couldn't handle that loud bang and rattle nearly every time there was an auto plunge.

Another question if possible. Could someone take a photo of the switch gap of magna sling leaf switch? My original playfield function really well, this one the slings are dead more times than not. I cannot recall how sensitive the switches were if at all different. But I'm guessing the rubber has to deflect way took much to activate the magnets.

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