(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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#3051 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I have noticed that trying to flutter your flipper, especially in the up position, is really hard and unreliable in Ghostbusters. I've drained quite a few times expecting to tap pass the ball across only to have it roll off and drain.

Yep. That happened to me a lot when I first got the game. I've learned to play around it, but I shouldn't have to.

Quoted from Who-Dey:

I think it may have something to do with the new spike system maybe? Seems like I read that somewhere anyways.

But my GoT is Spike, and it's fine. That's what's so confusing. Is it possible that Stern made some sort of change after GoT? I've never played a BM66 or AS. How are the flippers on those games?

#3052 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

But my GoT is Spike, and it's fine. That's what's so confusing. Is it possible that Stern made some sort of change after GoT?

Every GOT I've played had this issue too. Cannot remember on B66. Haven't tried to do the tap too much. Don't remember KISS having this though. Shrugs.

#3053 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Every GOT I've played had this issue too. Cannot remember on B66. Haven't tried to do the tap too much. Don't remember KISS having this though. Shrugs.

My GoT is an LE. Did they run those first? Maybe the change was made midway through the run? I'm obviously speculating here. There has to be some logical reason why the flipper feel completely different on some games.

#3054 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

My GoT is an LE. Did they run those first? Maybe the change was made midway through the run? I'm obviously speculating here. There has to be some logical reason why the flipper feel completely different on some games.

Well I definitely have a pro and have played mostly premiums and only a couple LEs. I want to say they all felt the same, but maybe not.

Basically compared to the Tron pro TWD prem and ST pro I play a lot there is no comparison. So easy to do on those.

#3055 2 years ago

My GB is worse than my GOT but the GOT doesn't quite feel right either. GB ticks me off sometimes though pretty bad because of this issue.

#3056 2 years ago

I've ran into the post-pass issue a few times in GB, and it pisses me off too.

Ironically, my 4 year old seems to have it down pat.

#3057 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

I've ran into the post-pass issue a few times in GB, and it pisses me off too.
Ironically, my 4 year old seems to have it down pat.

It's not so much the post passing for me, it's if you catch the ball and it rolls up to the tip of your flipper and you need to give it a little flick to keep the ball from rolling off of you the flipper. Sometimes I will tap the flipper button a little and it doesn't activate the flipper and it rolls off of my flipper and drains.

#3058 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Greetings! Struggling with an odd flipper issue on our Ghostbusters LE. Basically, the left and right flipper both act a bit 'sticky' and it is worse with the left flipper than the right. If you press the flipper buttons and let go, they stay raised up for a half second or so before falling back down. If you rapidly press the flipper buttons, the left flipper will actually just stay raised instead of the rapid flipping you should get with nice crisp flippers.
When you manually raise the flipper it immediately falls when you let go; there is no indication of binding or anything of that nature. I have worked with Chas from Stern and we tried different springs and even swapping the node boards but there was no difference. This is becoming very frustrating; the only thing I have not done is a complete flipper rebuild. Ghostbusters sits between a MMR and Monster Bash; all pins are played quite a bit as they are in freeplay in our company break room. MMR and Monster Bash have been absolute champs. With the exception of a cracked stop on MMR (a 5 minute swap) they have held up well and required only minor maintenance compared to GB which has been a headache
Any advice would be appreciated! Anyone else have this symptom with flippers on GB? I have applied the latest code update; just wanted to toss that out there. Let me tell you, I didn't know about the scream/scare mode... that was fun the first time it happened

My left flipper was sticking like this on ST, and the solution was to the adjust the leaf switch inside the cab. The pressure was so tight it was causing the button to bind. I had to play with bending the metal plates back and forth to get it to work right. But now it's awesome as it's a feather touch like my WMS game. I'll probably adjust my other Stern buttons because I never cared for the stiff tension anyway.

#3059 2 years ago

I had that flutter a few times on WWE LE.

Chas from Stern said:

"Try unplugging the connector for the general illumination. If there a shorted bulb or socket this can cause problems with the coils."

#3060 2 years ago

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.

Anyone else experience this?

#3061 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.
Anyone else experience this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/19#post-3277981

#3062 2 years ago

Thanks Delta! But won't adding two shooter rods make slimmer lay lower even more?

#3063 2 years ago

Nope, it raises his butt up and keeps it from hitting the buildings.

If yours is hitting the Black metal black cover, that can also be lowered a bit by removing the washers.

#3064 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

It's not so much the post passing for me, it's if you catch the ball and it rolls up to the tip of your flipper and you need to give it a little flick to keep the ball from rolling off of you the flipper. Sometimes I will tap the flipper button a little and it doesn't activate the flipper and it rolls off of my flipper and drains.

Yeah, it's all related. The little tap doesn't work right all the time.

#3065 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey all, just picked up a GBle and I noticed that when slimmer is activated, before coming down he is hitting the buildings on top of the pop bumpers. It's as if the cable holding him is too long.
Anyone else experience this?

I've seen this before.
If this is the issue I think it is...
Slimer is hitting his tongue or belly (not but) on the tall building.
Yes Slimer is at best too close the building at full rest position.
You can bend the steel cable backward near slimer so the cable still touches the contact but then curves away from the building.
This also levels slimer so he sits more parallel to the play field.

To do this:
* Take Slimer arm off so you hold it easily.
* Hold Slimer firmly and bend the cable back at the point where the cable meets slimer.
* This cable does not bend easily so bend back further than needed.
-- The cable will "warp" a bit so its slightly curved away from the building.
* Put the arm back on do not tighten.
* Rotate up to ensure Slimer's face does not hit the tall building.

--Adjust Slimer switch--
* Enter test switch mode
* Loosen the set screw so slimer can rotate down manually.
* Take the arm off.
* Remove the slimer top plate
* Carefully looses the screws from the under side
* Shift the plate until the slimer cable just touches the contact-ring.
* Tighten the screws
* Put the arm back on and rotate test. (do not tighten the set-screw on the arm yet so you can rotate manually)
* Slimer should rarely ding the switch test when rotating.
* In the down position, tap slimer to see if he dings easily from the playfield position.
-- Keep in mind, there is software in place that suppresses the switch activation while rotating-down.

#3066 2 years ago

Need to place an order for Marco for pick up at allentown (today is deadline)

I cant seem to find part numbers for:

Scoleri drop springs

Auto launch spring

Anyone know these off hand? I see the pinball life link for scoleri springs but need to order from Marco. Thanks!

#3067 2 years ago

I've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

#3068 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamie126:

I've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

Code 1.13..
Erine says "Rookie. Aim for gozer"
Gower is flashing. Hit it.
Ernie say good job or similar and flashing stops.

#3069 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamie126:

've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

Did you check the connections to it? It's also possible that the leaf switch needs to be adjusted. It might be stuck closed.

#3070 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamie126:

I've had a premium for a few months now. Does the gozer target do anything? I don't think it did anything from out of the box. The connections look good and the switch make contact. But I get no response from it in a switch test. I know it does something I've started the gozer hurry up and the gozer mode. Some how I have no power to it can any one help?

Something is wrong then. If it's not doing anything in switch test, there's an issue. It's also used in the Gozer the Gozerian mode. You can't complete the mode without it. There is also a Gozer hurry up.

#3071 2 years ago

I'll check the switch to make sure it's got power. It was looking like a project to find the board that was feeding that switch without taking that harness apart. It didn't look like the switch was stuck closed. I could see the contacts opening and closing. Thanks I'll dig deeper tonight

#3072 2 years ago

I most say was a better game without that Mylar in the right orbit. That gate was driving me crazy!!

#3073 2 years ago

I'm beginning to notice that my right pop bumper is starting to have a mind of its own. During gameplay, the right pop bumper is starting to fire randomly by itself, even when the ball is not in the bumper area, and even registers bumper rewards. I've tested the coil in the service menu, and it tests fine. I've lifted the PF and checked the connections, and I don't see a break in the solder. I've checked the molex and crimped connectors, and they seem all secure.

Any recommendations on anything else to check or test?

#3074 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

I'm beginning to notice that my right pop bumper is starting to have a mind of its own. During gameplay, the right pop bumper is starting to fire randomly by itself, even when the ball is not in the bumper area, and even registers bumper rewards. I've tested the coil in the service menu, and it tests fine. I've lifted the PF and checked the connections, and I don't see a break in the solder. I've checked the molex and crimped connectors, and they seem all secure.
Any recommendations on anything else to check or test?

Switch is too sensitive. Adjust it so the gap between the switch blades is wider.

#3075 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Switch is too sensitive. Adjust it so the gap between the switch blades is wider.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into widening the gap to see if that helps.

#3076 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into widening the gap to see if that helps.

Widen it, but still keep it very close. You don't want a mostly dead pop either.

#3077 2 years ago

I know that Vid's Guide is for an older style pin, but I'm guessing that this (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-486060) is what I'm looking to do?

Yes, GB is my first pin, with TZ being my second, and I'm beginning to become very intimate with my machines, trying to figure out issues and fixes out along the way. Working on my TZ gives me a sense that I can work on pins, and GB gives me the sense that I can play any pin. Noobish problems I guess haha

#3078 2 years ago

I still have troubles with the subway storage. Today I manually engaged the subway diverter in my premium with the help of a toothpick and dropped 3 balls to the subway. The switch test did not register any optos. I tried to film the subway from the cabinet and I could not see the balls, so apparently they are sitting in the storage. As none of the optos is working, I am asking for advice - where are the optos connected - I think the best course of action is to check that connector next.

#3079 2 years ago

Can some one take a pic of the captive ball / wire gate assy from the right side next to the ecto goggles for me . I can't figure out how to reassemble . It has a plastic post with a black spacer trying to see where the black spacer goes.
Thanks

20170504_144547 (resized).jpg

#3080 2 years ago

You should have gotten a part manual with your machine. It has an exploded view of this assembly that's shows how it gets assembled. I had to reference it after I install the pink captive balls.

#3081 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

You should have gotten a part manual with your machine. It has an exploded view of this assembly that's shows how it gets assembled. I had to reference it after I install the pink captive balls.

Thanks Bent,
Got it.

#3082 2 years ago

Guys just noticed this for the first time. I updated my Premium to game code 1.13 a couple weeks after it was released and all is well but when I start the game it shows it as a LE. I double checked my game code on my usb, should I re download it and install it again or does it matter?? Or is it just getting reported Wrong.

#3083 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys just noticed this for the first time. I updated my Premium to game code 1.13 a couple weeks after it was released and all is well but when I start the game it shows it as a LE. I double checked my game code on my usb, should I re download it and install it again or does it matter?? Or is it just getting reported Wrong.

Heck No,
You just increased the value

#3084 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys just noticed this for the first time. I updated my Premium to game code 1.13 a couple weeks after it was released and all is well but when I start the game it shows it as a LE. I double checked my game code on my usb, should I re download it and install it again or does it matter?? Or is it just getting reported Wrong.

That's the correct code. You're good to go

Junky

#3085 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I still have troubles with the subway storage. Today I manually engaged the subway diverter in my premium with the help of a toothpick and dropped 3 balls to the subway. The switch test did not register any optos. I tried to film the subway from the cabinet and I could not see the balls, so apparently they are sitting in the storage. As none of the optos is working, I am asking for advice - where are the optos connected - I think the best course of action is to check that connector next.

I tried to pull the opto-boards connectors apart to reattach them. When I did not manage to do it, I put the connectors more firmly together. Optos seem after that to work ok. I took power off the coil that moves the ball deflector and engaged the ball diverter in the subway with the help of a toothpick. In test mode I dropped 3 balls to the storage and each opto-light 60-62 light accordingly. Also switch 63 is working fine.

My problem with the storage is that when in game the "storage facility" is lit, the game does not store the balls and submit a new ball to the game from the ballthrough - instead there is a ball search and the result is that the game spits the ball back from the subway/storage hole (the hole where switch 63 is) back onto the playfield.

I had a look at the subway diverter and magnet and they seem to work ok. I have heard that some people have adjusted the diverter to be closer to the magnet as the diverted had not been working properly.

My working theory is that the wire connectors for the opto-switches are not always working properly and that's the reason with all the ball-searches. Have you guys replaced the connectors or removed them altogether by soldering the wires together? Which could be a better connectors to use?

#3086 2 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Can some one take a pic of the captive ball / wire gate assy from the right side next to the ecto goggles for me . I can't figure out how to reassemble . It has a plastic post with a black spacer trying to see where the black spacer goes.
Thanks

well, just dont reinstall that gate
flow is way better without (and certainly most funky when ball falling down from that lane !)

#3087 2 years ago

Well, it looks like I found the reason for the ball-searches at the storage/subway. A broken wire (ground) to connector 15 at node 10.
I will need to investigate, where to buy those tiny new connectors for the wires. Any help in relation to finding correct part is appreciated

GB_Connector15 (resized).JPG

#3088 2 years ago

See if it will push back into the connector, otherwise you're going to have to crimp on a new terminal pin. Pinball Life has them: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=496

It might go back in and be ok.

#3089 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Well, it looks like I found the reason for the ball-searches at the storage/subway. A broken wire (ground) to connector 15 at node 10.
I will need to investigate, where to buy those tiny new connectors for the wires. Any help in relation to finding correct part is appreciated

that's not a broken wire. the pin is still on there. Just put it back in so the top tab snaps into the slot and you are good to go. just make sure you know which one it goes back into. if it doesn't lock in. Take a tiny screwdriver, and pull up the tab ever so slightly. Then it will slide in and lock into the molex.

#3090 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
enjoy

trim the 2 branches off to look like this

Got these last week. So far, they seem to work great! Ball can still bounce off erratically, but no more hitting the glass.

I'm satisfied.

I did find that original screws are long enough to re-use....at least on my game.

#3091 2 years ago

Unboxed my prem last week. I have the problem that Slimer is dragging his butt

I untightened the Hex key but moving the pole up or down doesn't help much.

I see there is some solder underneath Slimer but don't know how to remove this safely?

I also noticed you can pull the wire upwards (see picture) and then it's fine. But after some play it moves down again and the problem retarts.

Thanks for any advice to fix this!

IMG_1326_good (resized).JPG

IMG_1327_bad (resized).JPG

#3092 2 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Unboxed my prem last week. I have the problem that Slimer is dragging his butt
I untightened the Hex key but moving the pole up or down doesn't help much.
I see there is some solder underneath Slimer but don't know how to remove this safely?
I also noticed you can pull the wire upwards (see picture) and then it's fine. But after some play it moves down again and the problem retarts.
Thanks for any advice to fix this!

Solder underneath Slimer?? I need to see that.
pninja005, Can you show a picture of the butt drag?
I assume you mean over the captive ball, but I need to see it before commenting.

Most people are putting a washer under the rotating arm (loosen set screw raise and tighten) washer is optional, but a good idea.
The washer commonly used is the washer found on shooter rods.

#3093 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Solder underneath Slimer?? I need to see that.
pninja005, Can you show a picture of the butt drag?
I assume you mean over the captive ball, but I need to see it before commenting.
Most people are putting a washer under the rotating arm (loosen set screw raise and tighten) washer is optional, but a good idea.
The washer commonly used is the washer found on shooter rods.

Raising up the boom eliminated the slimer drag across the captive ball cover on my machine BUT caused slimer to be too high above the playfield on the far left position. This meant that the ball could roll under slimer without registering as a hit. I lowered the boom back down. So for me, the lesser of 2 evils is to keep slimer low and just accept that he drags on the black cover.

I called and spoke with Chaz at Stern. He said that they considered the issue of slimer dragging across the captive ball cover to be acceptable.

Junky

#3094 2 years ago

Hello. I just received a GB Premium NIB last week and I've spent this week fixing issues/dialing it in. My current issue is that the ball gets stuck (during play) between the "cliffy" protector and the top of the scoop of the right eject VUK. I'm not sure of the best way to remedy this. Anybody had to deal with this before? Any ideas? Thanks.

gb_ball_stuck (resized).jpg

#3095 2 years ago
Quoted from funchaser:

Hello. I just received a GB Premium NIB last week and I've spent this week fixing issues/dialing it in. My current issue is that the ball gets stuck (during play) between the "cliffy" protector and the top of the scoop of the right eject VUK. I'm not sure of the best way to remedy this. Anybody had to deal with this before? Any ideas? Thanks.

I would try to bend the top of the scoop up a bit so there is more clearance.

#3096 2 years ago

yup, I concur. just bend the top up more, problem solved. Take you 2 sec to do with your fingers.

#3097 2 years ago

image (resized).jpg

Can someone please let me know the size of those little hex head / Phillips screws that holds the coin slot bezel in place .
Literally my dog ate them

#3098 2 years ago
Quoted from funchaser:

Hello. I just received a GB Premium NIB last week and I've spent this week fixing issues/dialing it in. My current issue is that the ball gets stuck (during play) between the "cliffy" protector and the top of the scoop of the right eject VUK. I'm not sure of the best way to remedy this. Anybody had to deal with this before? Any ideas? Thanks.

If the minute fraction of an inch that they cliffy removes from clearance of the scoop causes the ball to hit the top of the scoop, it was way too close to begin with. Check the mounting screws on the bottom and make sure tge assembly is not pitched forward for any reason then move forward with bending the top of the scoop up if needed.

#3099 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I would try to bend the top of the scoop up a bit so there is more clearance.

Quoted from CaptainNeo:

yup, I concur. just bend the top up more, problem solved. Take you 2 sec to do with your fingers.

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If the minute fraction of an inch that they cliffy removes from clearance of the scoop causes the ball to hit the top of the scoop, it was way too close to begin with. Check the mounting screws on the bottom and make sure tge assembly is not pitched forward for any reason then move forward with bending the top of the scoop up if needed.

Thanks guys for your quick response! Yeah, my initial thought was to bend the scoop up, but I wanted to double-check with others since this is my first time messing with a new and expensive (to me) game. I'm paranoid about breaking something I guess.

#3100 2 years ago

double check the spot welds on the scoop to ensure nothing has loosened and dropped - happened to me on the lhs scoop.

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