(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,357 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Rager170
  • Topic is favorited by 143 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 694 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Drop-target-assembly500-9960-00-01 (resized).jpg
file2 (resized).jpeg
file1 (resized).jpeg
file (resized).jpeg
20190922_151526 (resized).jpg
20190922_194026 (resized).jpg
IMG_6764 (resized).JPG
IMG_6762 (resized).JPG
IMG_6763 (resized).JPG
IMG_6753 (resized).JPG
IMG_6752 (resized).JPG
IMG_6751 (resized).JPG
IMG_6749 (resized).JPG
20190808_225010 (resized).jpg
20190808_225339 (resized).jpg
20190808_225658 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 4357 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 88.
#3001 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I'm pretty annoyed. After having my playfield replaced, my game simply plays worse. The right orbit used to be 100% reliable on my game before swapping the playfield out, now it commonly fails to make it around. It really disrupts things, and I'm quite bugged about it.
Since I never had the problem before, I've not looked into the fixes out there. What are people doing to improve the reliability of the right orbit shot? This is on a GBLE, by the way.

You'll be happy to know that it's an easy fix. Just remove the piece of mylar that is located right before the orbit switch behind Stay Puft. It's hard to believe that such a small thing causes such a large problem, but it does. I think the earlier runs didn't have the mylar installed, which is most likely why you never had a problem on that shot with your original playfield.

#3002 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I think he's talking about the far right circle that goes back to left flipper. I also have this where the ball gets caught in that gate and drops down to the poppers. I think the intention is for the ball to always go around and back to left flipper but that doesn't happen all the time. That's not normal right? Any fix?

The ball should not always go all the way around. With testing you will see there is a pattern to when the gate opens and when it does not. Now if you do the exact same thing and sometimes it opens , sometimes not, then that could be an issue.

#3003 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

Since I never had the problem before, I've not looked into the fixes out there. What are people doing to improve the reliability of the right orbit shot? This is on a GBLE, by the way.

Removing the Mylar before the switch was the fix for that.

#3004 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I'm pretty annoyed. After having my playfield replaced, my game simply plays worse. The right orbit used to be 100% reliable on my game before swapping the playfield out, now it commonly fails to make it around. It really disrupts things, and I'm quite bugged about it.
Since I never had the problem before, I've not looked into the fixes out there. What are people doing to improve the reliability of the right orbit shot? This is on a GBLE, by the way.
I've traded ghosting for a TERRIBLE left scoop (never had an issue there before), a bad right orbit, and a host of other issues I've been fixing. Frustrating.

Sucks, man. What could have been.

ghost (resized).jpg

#3005 2 years ago

Awesome. I'll pull the mylar up. Thanks, guys.

#3006 2 years ago

Is their a fix for the ball hitting staypuft ? Sometimes ball launches perfectly other times it hits him and dribbles down

#3007 2 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Is their a fix for the ball hitting staypuft ? Sometimes ball launches perfectly other times it hits him and dribbles down

I don't know. That never happened on my old playfield but it's happening on the new playfield for me now too. Can't just be the spring, because I'm using the same one as before.

#3008 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

The ball should not always go all the way around. With testing you will see there is a pattern to when the gate opens and when it does not. Now if you do the exact same thing and sometimes it opens , sometimes not, then that could be an issue.

Good to know i thought it was always intended to go around.

#3009 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

Awesome. I'll pull the mylar up. Thanks, guys.

That will fix the right orbit 100% guaranteed

#3010 2 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Is their a fix for the ball hitting staypuft ? Sometimes ball launches perfectly other times it hits him and dribbles down

Mine does this too and it pisses me off. I put the replacement spring in the auto shooter, don't think it made much of a difference honestly, does it on a manual plunge also.

#3011 2 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Mine does this too and it pisses me off. I put the replacement spring in the auto shooter, don't think it made much of a difference honestly, does it on a manual plunge also.

What's your angle front to back?
I'm assuming you have left right level at 0

#3012 2 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Is their a fix for the ball hitting staypuft ? Sometimes ball launches perfectly other times it hits him and dribbles down

Quoted from jar155:

I don't know. That never happened on my old playfield but it's happening on the new playfield for me now too. Can't just be the spring, because I'm using the same one as before.

Quoted from pindude80:

Mine does this too and it pisses me off. I put the replacement spring in the auto shooter, don't think it made much of a difference honestly, does it on a manual plunge also.

You guys need to bend the corner of the mechanical gate up. A few guys here have done this (including me). Some have removed the gate completely. It's a really shitty design. If your machines are like the others here on the forum then the ball is bouncing off of the gate frame and then hitting stay puft and the cabinet walls with both the auto launch and a hard plunge. Bending it fixed my machine. It still happens about 5% of the time for me now. It used to happen almost every time before though. A HUGE improvement.

Junky

IMG_0069 (resized).JPG

#3013 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

You guys need to bend the corner of the mechanical gate up.

Did you have to remove the gate to do this? I tried removing the gate once, but Stay Puft was blocking me from getting it out. I didn't feel like dealing with it at the time, so I just left it alone. The problem isn't too bad on my machine. With the lower tension spring, a full plunge makes it all the way around almost all the time. A majority of the time I'm going for the "K" skill shot anyway.

#3014 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Did you have to remove the gate to do this? I tried removing the gate once, but Stay Puft was blocking me from getting it out. I didn't feel like dealing with it at the time, so I just left it alone. The problem isn't too bad on my machine. With the lower tension spring, a full plunge makes it all the way around almost all the time. A majority of the time I'm going for the "K" skill shot anyway.

I didn't. I removed stay puft (easy, 2 nuts and 1 electrical connector). Then I bent the corner of the gate frame with pliers very carefully in place. It's a pain to remove the gate.
On the "we got one" thread PinScott said he removed the playfield backboard in order to remove the gate, and then bent and filed the gate frame.

Junky

#3015 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

The ball should not always go all the way around. With testing you will see there is a pattern to when the gate opens and when it does not.

Quoted from delt31:

Good to know. I thought it was always intended to go around.

I'm not sure about all the modes (I rarely get to the deeper modes on the right ladder), but in normal play the ball appears to almost always go all the way around on a right orbit shot. I wasn't sure about this before, but now that my orbit switch is working 100%, I'm much more confident that this is the case. It's possible that the gate remains closed during some multiballs, as I'm rarely paying attention and am just happy to keep the balls in play.

#3016 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I didn't. I removed stay puft (easy, 2 nuts and 1 electrical connector). Then I bent the corner of the gate frame with pliers very carefully in place. It's a pain to remove the gate.
On the "we got one" thread PinScott said he removed the playfield backboard in order to remove the gate, and then bent and filed the gate frame.
Junky

Thanks for the info! It may have been the ball guide that was the problem and not Stay Puft. Seems like a pain in the butt if you actually have to remove the backboard. I'll try your method leaving the gate in place and removing Stay Puft.

#3017 2 years ago

OK guys to remove the back right gate , all you need to do is remove the plastic under stay puft, the inside corner plastic, 2 nuts . That gives plenty of space to remove the gate with the 2 screws on the back of the back board , easy access with playfield on the rails and pulled out a bit .
I have done this at least 3 times in an attempt the fix the notorious "Rattle", I cut that entire corner off the bracket with my dremel , but to no avail. I just removed it completely.

#3018 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

the problem is finding the fine line of processing fee and then volume as they combine both, I can try to see if making a larger branch will be cost effective. How many do you need 4 or 6?

More than happy to do 6 here - Thanks Swinks!

#3019 2 years ago

I had a problem with tshooter rod. It seems not to work correct. Sometimes it would hit stay puff, sometimes it would not even make the top. Decided to get it out, and was not straight. Replaced it with one lying around. Now it is perfect. Strange that the rod was not straight, on a NIB.

#3020 2 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Strange that the rod was not straight, on a NIB.

Yeah, that's very odd.

#3021 2 years ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

Everybody will have an opinion but a 3 pack for the main three targets would be my suggestion. Both sides of the ramp and the ghost target. I do not get much air off the side ones, but the upper 3 send it flying.

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025

enjoy

710x528_18524101_10863747_1492766066 (resized).png

trim the 2 branches off to look like this
710x528_18132518_10646956_1492504627 (resized).png

#3022 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
enjoy

trim the 2 branches off to look like this

Does this mean you can eliminate art's airball protector or it works in conjunction with it? I still get airball that richot off the airball protector.

#3023 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Shapeways wanted me to strengthen up the sprue to link the 2 wedges so now it has 2 sprues which needed to be beefed up (their request). 3 doesn't work and 4 ended up costing the same as 2 x twin packs due to the volume of space they use up as there is 5-6mm of nothing between the 2 sets and they charge you for the volume including the gaps - so 2 pack kit is final - sorry but think it is still affordable and is worthwhile to cut down on the airballs and resulting dimples.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ULXAHMCWL/stern-pinball-target-wedge-4-degree-twin-pack?optionId=62462025
enjoy

trim the 2 branches off to look like this

I'm hoping the first person that buys one of these items will do a quick review on it and show either a video or just let us know how well it works.

#3024 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Does this mean you can eliminate art's airball protector or it works in conjunction with it? I still get airball that richot off the airball protector.

with all respect to Art and his air ball protector or other peoples possible protectors, I merely looked at the issue from a different perspective - trying to solve the the cause and not controlling the wild air balls. So in doing so I turned the target into a bally style and put some angle back into it to keep the ball lower. As stated before I still get a minor hop every now and then but no massive air balls anymore. It is a cheap part so affordable to try and you can also add a small bit of foam double sided tape to the back of the target to keep a forward position if desired.

Quoted from chucksmith:

I'm hoping the first person that buys one of these items will do a quick review on it and show either a video or just let us know how well it works.

hopefully some reviews come soon as a few have already sent out

#3025 2 years ago

Saw something really strange tonight. Was in "Spook Central", hit the Subway ramp to collect the Hurry Up, and "We Got One" started! Both modes played at the same time, with he shot arrows alternating their respective colors.

Anyone else ever seen two ladder modes running simultaneously?

#3026 2 years ago

has anyone put in cliffys for the bros drop targets and NOT gotten airballs when shooting left ramp? I know that they will cause them if not adjusted (the target) and even after I think I've adjusted well, still get them here and there.....

I have art's protector but it's the drop target+cliffy that's likely causing the air ball not the 2x/3x target

#3027 2 years ago

angling the targets and adding thicker denser foam behind them is a better alternative to the protector. Protector allows the airball to still happen and fly back with some air. Tho, lower profile trajectory. Where keeping the target angled differently, keeps the airball from happening at all. Adding thicker foam, helps cushion the blow more so and eliminates the airball almost entirely.

#3028 2 years ago

Update to the out of focus ecto goggles. Finally got to have a look at it and found the screen was in focus and the mirror glass was out of focus. Flipped the glass over and problem solved. You get the same problem with pin2000 glass. So easy fix for anyone else that may encounter this. See photo of the problem

out of focus from mirror (resized).jpg

#3029 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

Saw something really strange tonight. Was in "Spook Central", hit the Subway ramp to collect the Hurry Up, and "We Got One" started! Both modes played at the same time, with he shot arrows alternating their respective colors.
Anyone else ever seen two ladder modes running simultaneously?

Yeah, it's one of the documented bugs that really needs to be cleaned up.

#3030 2 years ago

Possible update maybe Stern is improving QA, better parts are being used?
New GB premium owner here, when did Stern start adding metal outer brackets/rails to the playfield's?, the older games where the ball ejects and hits wood with vinyl, and everyone adds the metal guards, the outer rails are now metal. On the left side you can see the "C" channel, the right side is facing the same direction but the cabinet covers the "C" side, the smooth side is where it hits the ball.

but still having issues with very soft playfield dents/dips and now cracking ball launch area.

GB rails 1 (resized).JPG
GB rails 2 (resized).JPG

#3031 2 years ago

Can confirm initial run LE's had no mylar on right hand loop. Have just removed the mylar on my replacement pf and once glue removed will test.

#3032 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can confirm initial run LE's had no mylar on right hand loop. Have just removed the mylar on my replacement pf and once glue removed will test.

You are going to be shocked by how much of a difference removing that mylar makes.

#3033 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You are going to be shocked by how much of a difference removing that mylar makes.

Yes did the trick. I don't take things on face value until I can see the logic behind it. I can categorically say it solved the problem. Now how to solve the auto plunger problem??? I never had it on the original le pf so want to see if there is a solution other than a different spring

Another question. What is the general consensus re book captive ball gi's. Last pf was red led top and white near the captive ball. Now I have the opposite

#3034 2 years ago

Can someone confirm if there auto plunger ever shoots the ball so it completes the loop to left flipper? Mine RARELY does. I've already changed the spring which def makes it less strong but still not sure if trajectory is accurate.

#3035 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Can someone confirm if there auto plunger ever shoots the ball so it completes the loop to left flipper? Mine RARELY does. I've already changed the spring which def makes it less strong but still not sure if trajectory is accurate.

mine seems to remember what the initial ball launch skill shot was during the ball save time period
- if I plunged around to the left flipper and then I lost the ball it would remember this shot and shoot the ball right around to the left flipper
- if I plunged to the top lanes and drained it would plunge to the top in lanes - so I assuming that it is controlling a gate or the power of the launch
- if I plunged short so the ball doesn't go to the top in lanes but just exited out of the shooter lane and then dropped down to the right flipper it would just sit the ball in the shooter lane and then waits for me to manual launch

during a multiball all balls go to the top in lanes only.

#3036 2 years ago

wow good to know. Will try and see if mine is doing the same. Thanks

#3037 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

mine seems to remember what the initial ball launch skill shot was during the ball save time period
- if I plunged around to the left flipper and then I lost the ball it would remember this shot, so
- if I plunged to the top lanes and drained it would plunge to the top - assuming the gate stays closed
- if I plunged short so the ball doesn't go to the top lanes but just exited out of the shorter lane and then dropped down to the right flipper it would just sit the ball in the lane waiting for me to manual launch
during a multiball all balls go to the top in lanes only.

That's crazy if true! I never noticed that before!

Going to have to experiment tonight.

#3038 2 years ago

Thanks everybody for the gate removal trick my gble is playing really good know

#3039 2 years ago

Greetings! Struggling with an odd flipper issue on our Ghostbusters LE. Basically, the left and right flipper both act a bit 'sticky' and it is worse with the left flipper than the right. If you press the flipper buttons and let go, they stay raised up for a half second or so before falling back down. If you rapidly press the flipper buttons, the left flipper will actually just stay raised instead of the rapid flipping you should get with nice crisp flippers.

When you manually raise the flipper it immediately falls when you let go; there is no indication of binding or anything of that nature. I have worked with Chas from Stern and we tried different springs and even swapping the node boards but there was no difference. This is becoming very frustrating; the only thing I have not done is a complete flipper rebuild. Ghostbusters sits between a MMR and Monster Bash; all pins are played quite a bit as they are in freeplay in our company break room. MMR and Monster Bash have been absolute champs. With the exception of a cracked stop on MMR (a 5 minute swap) they have held up well and required only minor maintenance compared to GB which has been a headache

Any advice would be appreciated! Anyone else have this symptom with flippers on GB? I have applied the latest code update; just wanted to toss that out there. Let me tell you, I didn't know about the scream/scare mode... that was fun the first time it happened

#3040 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Any advice would be appreciated! Anyone else have this symptom with flippers on GB?

No but my GOT is spike I have noticed this happening with my right flipper. I am thinking the cabinet switch needs adjusted so that the contacts of the switch separate sooner than they are thus the flipper drops sooner. However, my issue is that for the right flipper, the flipper button is almost all the way back out when the flipper drops and the left flipper drops when the button is about halfway out or when you would typically expect it too.

This issue makes post passing from right to left almost impossible too. I'll report back once I mess with it more tonight.

My game has a butt ton of plays on it (4-5k), so I guess I could be nearing a rebuild but they seem plenty strong still. Just the timing is what's off.

#3041 2 years ago

The problem must be mechanical, because aside from taps on the button to make a flipper slightly flutter, you can't really make a coil fire partially or hold in a partial plunge. Maybe your flipper shafts are too low and there is a bit of drag going on. Try loosening the flippers, raising them just a touch, and tightening them back up. Adjust your flipper switch contacts so they contact cleanly and release cleanly.

And do they uniformly stick, or does it sometimes happen with one and not the other? If it's uniform, then it might actually be an electrical/electronic issue, but it seems super weird. If it's not so uniform, it's probably mechanical in nature.

#3042 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Greetings! Struggling with an odd flipper issue on our Ghostbusters LE. Basically, the left and right flipper both act a bit 'sticky' and it is worse with the left flipper than the right. If you press the flipper buttons and let go, they stay raised up for a half second or so before falling back down. If you rapidly press the flipper buttons, the left flipper will actually just stay raised instead of the rapid flipping you should get with nice crisp flippers.
When you manually raise the flipper it immediately falls when you let go; there is no indication of binding or anything of that nature. I have worked with Chas from Stern and we tried different springs and even swapping the node boards but there was no difference. This is becoming very frustrating; the only thing I have not done is a complete flipper rebuild. Ghostbusters sits between a MMR and Monster Bash; all pins are played quite a bit as they are in freeplay in our company break room. MMR and Monster Bash have been absolute champs. With the exception of a cracked stop on MMR (a 5 minute swap) they have held up well and required only minor maintenance compared to GB which has been a headache
Any advice would be appreciated! Anyone else have this symptom with flippers on GB? I have applied the latest code update; just wanted to toss that out there. Let me tell you, I didn't know about the scream/scare mode... that was fun the first time it happened

I only just started get this last night as well on the left flipper only - interested to hear what the solution is?

#3043 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

And do they uniformly stick, or does it sometimes happen with one and not the other? If it's uniform, then it might actually be an electrical/electronic issue, but it seems super weird. If it's not so uniform, it's probably mechanical in nature.

This is the weird thing. The behavior is very consistent. Like, every single flip there is this delay before the flipper comes back down and the delay is always almost a second, and it never happens when I manually lift and drop the flipper. This is why I keep going back to it being some sort of electrical issue.
When our MMR had a cracked stop, the affected flipper would sometimes not drop back down entirely but the behavior was intermittent, as seems to be the case with a mechanical problem.

I did an eyeball check of the contacts on the flipper buttons themselves but maybe that is another place to look.

#3044 2 years ago

Magnetic coilstop/plunger when the coil was energized?

#3045 2 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Greetings! Struggling with an odd flipper issue on our Ghostbusters LE. Basically, the left and right flipper both act a bit 'sticky' and it is worse with the left flipper than the right. If you press the flipper buttons and let go, they stay raised up for a half second or so before falling back down. If you rapidly press the flipper buttons, the left flipper will actually just stay raised instead of the rapid flipping you should get with nice crisp flippers.

I have this exact same issue with with the flippers on my GB premium. It makes it very hard to do the little finesse moves like tap passes, post passes, etc ... On most games, a quick release and re-press will cause the flipper to flutter ever so slightly. When I do this on GB, the flipper often doesn't move at all. Like you said, you can even hit the button rapidly many times in a row without the flipper dropping even the slightest. I tried making the gap on the flipper button switches a little wider. This helped a bit, but the flippers still don't react like they are supposed to. My only other Spike game is GoT, and those flippers work perfectly. I sure would like to get to the bottom of this.

#3046 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You are going to be shocked by how much of a difference removing that mylar makes.

It's funny because I added mylar to my pro in that area and have no issue.

Rob

#3047 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I have this exact same issue with with the flippers on my GB premium. It makes it very hard to do the little finesse moves like tap passes, post passes, etc ... On most games, a quick release and re-press will cause the flipper to flutter ever so slightly. When I do this on GB, the flipper often doesn't move at all. Like you said, you can even hit the button rapidly many times in a row without the flipper dropping even the slightest. I tried making the gap on the flipper button switches a little wider. This helped a bit, but the flippers still don't react like they are supposed to. My only other Spike game is GoT, and those flippers work perfectly. I sure would like to get to the bottom of this.

That sounds like some kind of mechanical issue. Did it always do this or just start?

Rob

#3048 2 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

That sounds like some kind of mechanical issue. Did it always do this or just start?

The game has always been like this. I've examined both flipper mechs, and I can't see anything that appears out of the ordinary.

#3049 2 years ago

I have noticed that trying to flutter your flipper, especially in the up position, is really hard and unreliable in Ghostbusters. I've drained quite a few times expecting to tap pass the ball across only to have it roll off and drain.

#3050 2 years ago
Quoted from jar155:

I have noticed that trying to flutter your flipper, especially in the up position, is really hard and unreliable in Ghostbusters. I've drained quite a few times expecting to tap pass the ball across only to have it roll off and drain.

Same here and I don't like it either. I think it may have something to do with the new spike system maybe? Seems like I read that somewhere anyways.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 69.99
Lighting - Led
PinballBulbs
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 5,599.00
Pinball Machine
Little Shop Of Games
There are 4357 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 88.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside