(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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There are 4339 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 87.
#2901 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

I wondered that too, but one guy said he set his up and never moved it yet it split.
FYI: Don't drag your machine around.
If you have to drag it, use magic sliders and have a person in front and a person in back holding on to the legs not the cabinet.
Best option is a pinball lift which I do not have either, but I've been seriously looking at them after all this drama.
Thankfully my Premium cabinet is still fine with no cracking or separation.
ebay.com link » Heavy Duty Pinball Lift Dolly Cart Made In The U S A

#2902 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I couldnt stand those God awful latches!

Really? These are fantastic and never lose strength.

#2903 2 years ago

I have those non skid rubber feet on my legs, but my crack was there before I installed them. I purchased the Harbor fright model for $120 with a super coupon and then used a pipe bender from homedepot(which i promptly returned after completing the bend)

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html

Art or Chuck, Any response to my questions about the flipper swap, plunger plate and center post?

IMG_1232 (resized).JPG

IMG_1234 (resized).JPG

#2904 2 years ago

FYI,MY GB/PRE built 12/29/16 code 1.13 ,Arts airball mod intact and working fine! PBL lane protectors in with Center post,no side drains,intact and working fine! No other PF mods necessary!No code problems!

#2905 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Art or Chuck, Any response to my questions about the flipper swap, plunger plate and center post?

About the plunger: The wood screws are not the main thing. They hold it all in place while you tighten the bolts which are the real clamping action that holds it all. I would remove the wood screws, insert the bolts, adjust the way you want it, tighten bolts, then decide if you really want the wood screws. The bolts clamp it all very strong with no need for the wood screws other than they make it easy to hold parts in place while bolts are installed.

Flippers:
1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out?

Loosen the screw that clamps the post attached to the flipper .
Tap out if needed.
Install new flippers - ensure gap under flipper about the thickness of a credit card.
Tighten the bolts locking in the flipper post.
clamping bolt (resized).png

#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from BernieK:

For anyone's that's removed the mylar on a premium... before I dig into this, can you advise on how much dissasembly is needed to get access and clean up the glue afterwards? Any other tips on how to do this would definitely be appreciated. - THANKS

Nothing to take apart just reach down there pull the Mylar off then clean the residue off wax and play. Really makes a world of difference.

#2907 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

No, we would have been hearing reports of cabinet separations for years then. This is a manufacturing flaw.

#2908 2 years ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I wonder if these separations are occurring by pulling or pushing the cabinet on a floor,
as opposed to lifting and moving?

That's possible, but it still shouldn't be happening. I've slid mine around a lot, but it's on carpet sliders, so not much force is needed. Knock on wood (no pun intended), my game is fine so far.

#2909 2 years ago

Just got a premium that is amazingly loud.

Even with the volume on 4-5 it's as loud as my other Sterns on 15 including other Spike games.

Is this normal for GB?

#2910 2 years ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Just got a premium that is amazingly loud.
Even with the volume on 4-5 it's as loud as my other Sterns on 15 including other Spike games.
Is this normal for GB?

GB does seem to be louder than my other Spike game. I have GoT set at 15 and GB set at 10. At those settings, GB still sounds louder.

#2911 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

GB does seem to be louder than my other Spike game. I have GoT set at 15 and GB set at 10. At those settings, GB still sounds louder.

I play GB at 25-30.

#2912 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I play GB at 25-30.

Is it incredibly loud?

#2913 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Is it incredibly loud?

Yes. It's awesome. Lol

At 10 I can hear the stuff rattle when the shaker kicks in.

#2914 2 years ago

Thanks. Good to know it's normal. Can't imagine having it at 30 when the ghost screams.

#2915 2 years ago
Quoted from BernieK:

For anyone's that's removed the mylar on a premium... before I dig into this, can you advise on how much dissasembly is needed to get access and clean up the glue afterwards? Any other tips on how to do this would definitely be appreciated. - THANKS

Zero disassembly. I was able to pull it off using pliers and freezing it with compressed air turned upside down. Cleanup glue with a paper towel soaked in nail polish remover.

#2916 2 years ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Thanks. Good to know it's normal. Can't imagine having it at 30 when the ghost screams.

It actually doesn't matter what volume you have it at for the scare feature. It will scream at max volume. I even had my headphones in and it still screamed max on the speakers.

#2917 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I am on a roll and have more to tell and more to ask.
I installed the Stern Tournament Button and Switch Assembly - Cabinet Mounting part #500-6587-06-TL picked up a PBL. On SPIKE games apparently you can just plug the wires that are hanging from the node board. They hooked up same way as the start button. No Diode needed to be solider in like SAM machines. You also have to go into service mode and enable Competition mode for the button to flash.
I do have two more questions.
1) I ordered yellow flipper bats from PBL as I dont like the stock white ones. What is entailed in swapping them out? Do you have to gap them? Do I have to disassemble a lot to get to them? Any tips would help.
2) I attached a picture of my shooter rod plate. It looks way off center based on the artwork. There are three Philips screws and two hex head that hold the plate and shooter in place. It doesn't look like there is any adjustment to re position other than taking the screws out and retapping them in the wood. I am not sure if I moved the position of the shooter plate it wouldn't infact throw off the shooter alignment and geometry. It's ridiculous they let things like this leave the factory this way. Please advise what I should do.
P.S. I will be gluing and clamping the left side of the cabinet on Sunday when my dad brings over his clamps.

why do you have those plastic leg pieces of crap on your game, when the game comes with the standoff kind already installed?

#2918 2 years ago

With the Pinovators system on GB, when I'm not wearing headphones, I have the volume at 4 to 6 with a subwoofer. Compared to my other pins GB is much loader (but its my only Spike system).

BTW, try the headphones even if you just plug them in the backbox. Trust me, try them. There are so many sounds I can only hear with headphones specially the Mass Hysteria flipper switch clues.

#2919 2 years ago

I have to agree about the earphones. They are nice! Get the Pinnovator's set up - it's well worth it.

#2920 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

why do you have those plastic leg pieces of crap on your game, when the game comes with the standoff kind already installed?

What do you mean the games comes with the standoff Kind? Should I not use them? I have the felt underneath.

#2921 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

What do you mean the games comes with the standoff Kind? Should I not use them? I have the felt underneath.

He is referring to the cabinet protectors that come pre-installed from the factory. They create a space between the leg and the cabinet so the leg doesn't actually touch the cabinet. These make the kind of protectors you are using unnecessary. Stern started using these a while back. I think AC/DC may have been the first game to have them, and they've been on every game since.

#2922 2 years ago

I removed the mylar behind Stay Puft yesterday. It does indeed make a substantial difference. The switch is registering much more consistently now, and it greatly improves game play. Like others have said, it was easy to take off the mylar. I just started it with my fingernail at the edge near the switch, and then pulled it right off with a pair of needle nose pliers. In my opinion, there is no need for the freeze spray method. There was some residue left from the glue, but it came right off with a little Goo Gone and some scrubbing with a microfiber towel.

#2923 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I removed the mylar behind Stay Puft yesterday. It does indeed make a substantial difference. The switch is registering much more consistently now, and it greatly improves game play. Like others have said, it was easy to take off the mylar. I just started it with my fingernail at the edge near the switch, and then pulled it right off with a pair of needle nose pliers. In my opinion, there is no need for the freeze spray method. There was some residue left from the glue, but it came right off with a little Goo Gone and some scrubbing with a microfiber towel.

Did it completely fix the problem on your machine? Does the right orbit shot register every time now like it is supposed to? I've been waiting to hear from more guys about this before I remove my mylar.
Thanks
Junky

#2924 2 years ago

Do any of you guys know how to fix the two problems below, they really get on my nerves

a.) battle rattles at back right orbit by Stay Puft- does it both on manual plunge and on auto shooter. I changed the spring out on the auto plunger as someone wrote up when I first got the game, but it still does it. Maybe a ball guide problem?

b.) ball rolls around in the subway, ball search has to activate then will kick out of the right kickout. I tried loosening the nut under the PF where the plastic and metal meet, push the adjustment all the way to one side, but didn't make a difference. I've heard of others wrapping electrical tape around the last metal "hoop" before the ball goes down the subway, not something I want to do for cosmetic and don't want to track electrical tape glue all over the game.

#2925 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Did it completely fix the problem on your machine? Does the right orbit shot register every time now like it is supposed to? I've been waiting to hear from more guys about this before I remove my mylar.
Thanks
Junky

I've only played a couple games since I removed the mylar. I could immediately see that the situation was greatly improved, but I'll need some more games under my belt to accurately answer your questions.

#2926 2 years ago

Anyone else wish the OP could simply change the title of this thread to "GB issue AND resolution thread".
Very helpful tips here and given the game is now nearly a year into release, I find the current title a bit misleading to the game overall at this point.
Just an opinion.

#2927 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

He is referring to the cabinet protectors that come pre-installed from the factory. They create a space between the leg and the cabinet so the leg doesn't actually touch the cabinet. These make the kind of protectors you are using unnecessary. Stern started using these a while back. I think AC/DC may have been the first game to have them, and they've been on every game since.

What does it look like? I didnt notice any protectors on the cab or legs. I assume the protecor is built into the cab? I am planning on taking the left leg off. installing L brackets, and the W/B inner metal leg bracket Williams/Bally New Style Leg Bracket
pbl_01-11400-1 , putting in Gorilla wood glue in the corner joint and clamping it shut to hopefully fix my splitting cab. I also ordered some 2 3/4 inch black powdercoated bolts (Data East/Sega/Stern Extended Black Leg Bolt - 2-3/4"
231-5001-01B_XL ) and PinGuard Nylon Leg and Bolt Protector (pg_nylon) all from Pinball Life.

I will take pictures during and after the repair. I really would hate to have to have Stern send me a new cab and swap it out.
All this money spent to fix a problem that should have happen in the first place.

#2928 2 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

Anyone else wish the OP could simply change the title of this thread to "GB issue AND resolution thread".
Very helpful tips here and given the game is now nearly a year into release, I find the current title a bit misleading to the game overall at this point.
Just an opinion.

What would be good is if we start a new thread and in the first post it lists out all the issues and what the resolutions are. If you guys want to keep this thread going then maybe a master issues post stated in the next few posts with all the issues and then link it back to the Topic Index so people can find it easily and check on any updates.

#2929 2 years ago

Does your extra ball light at 100 ghosts?

#2930 2 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

What does it look like? I didn't notice any protectors on the cab or legs. I assume the protector is built into the cab?

They are either metal or plastic and look like this ...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Cabinet Protectors (resized).JPG

#2931 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Did it completely fix the problem on your machine? Does the right orbit shot register every time now like it is supposed to? I've been waiting to hear from more guys about this before I remove my mylar.
Thanks
Junky

I have payed many games since removing my mylar piece and that shot has not failed to register one time since removing it. Its the best thing ive ever done, makes the game way more fun.

#2932 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I have payed many games since removing my mylar piece and that shot has not failed to register one time since removing it. Its the best thing ive ever done, makes the game way more fun.

How about the plunge shot. Does that ever hit the corner bracket?

#2933 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

How about the plunge shot. Does that ever hit the corner bracket?

If you're talking about when the ball rattles around by stay puft on the auto plunge then yes it still eoes that occasionally

#2934 2 years ago

Okay, I just played five long games for the express purpose of testing out just how effective removing the mylar was. I even temporarily disabled the Scoleri Brothers so I could more easily focus on the shot. Holy crap!!! I don't think there was single time in all five games that the right orbit didn't register. Even super hard combos on the fly coming from the left orbit triggered the switch 100% of the time. To be honest, I'm a little shocked by how much of a difference removing a simple piece of mylar made. I can now say unequivocally that this mod makes the game play way better and should be performed by every person who owns the game.

#2935 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Okay, I just played five long games for the express purpose of testing out just how effective removing the mylar was. I even temporarily disabled the Scoleri Brothers so I could more easily focus on the shot. Holy crap!!! I don't think there was single time in all five games that the right orbit didn't register. Even super hard combos on the fly coming from the left orbit triggered the switch 100% of the time. To be honest, I'm a little shocked by how much of a difference removing a simple piece of mylar made. I can now say unequivocally that this mod makes the game play way better and should be performed by every person who owns the game.

It's hard to believe that this actually fixes the problem but it does. I don't see how the Mylar could have possibly affected the switch from registering but it damn sure does.

#2936 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

It's hard to believe that this actually fixes the problem but it does. I don't see how the Mylar could have possibly affected the switch from registering but it damn sure does.

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

#2937 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I don't see how the Mylar could have possibly affected the switch from registering but it damn sure does.

I wouldn't have thought so either, but the ball obviously gets quite a bit of loft when it hits the edge of the mylar. This wouldn't normally be an issue, but the proximity of the mylar to the switch combined with the quick turn created the perfect storm.

Quoted from pinden007:

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

I believe it probably would if you extended it down far enough.

#2938 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

It's possible but I don't see any reason that it needs to be on there anyway.

#2939 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

It's possible, but I don't see any reason that it needs to be on there anyway.

Agreed. In a home use environment, I don't think the mylar in that area is necessary at all. At any rate, I played some more games, and I've now come to the realization that removing the mylar not only fixed the situation with the switch not being activated, but it also resolved the issue where a hard shot ball to the right orbit would sometimes rattle around up there and fall back down the way it came. The ball has not done that once since removing the mylar, and it used to do it every now and then on my game. I always assumed it was gaining air when it went over the drop target, but it turns out it was the mylar all along.

I am so fricken happy that we finally figured this one out. I honestly thought it was a design flaw with that upper right corner of the playfield, and we were just going to have to learn to live with it. I forgot who it was that originally suggested removing the mylar, but hats off to them! My game is now playing almost 100%. The only thing remaining that still needs to be tweaked is the upper right gate on the plunge. I've swapped out the shooter spring with the next one down and it helped, but the ball with still occasionally graze the gate. It's a minor issue on my game, though, and I know it's worse on some people's games.

#2940 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I wonder if the problem could also be fixed by extending the piece further down the lane.

I wonder if just adjusting the switch does the same.
Removing the mylar would be the same as raising the wire on the switch. (bending wire upward to switch is pressed sooner)

#2941 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I wonder if just adjusting the switch does the same.

I tried tweaking the switch. It helped a bit, but no matter how much I fiddled with it, I still couldn't get it to register 100% of the time. Removing the mylar, on the other hand, worked like a charm.

#2942 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Removing the mylar would be the same as raising the wire on the switch. (bending wire upward to switch is pressed sooner)

It's not exactly the same. I think what happens is that a fast moving ball is launched into the air when it hits the front edge of the mylar. It then comes flying around the corner and makes contact with the switch at a less than optimal trajectory. Removing the mylar keeps the ball solidly rolling on the playfield so it makes proper contact with the switch wire.

#2943 2 years ago

Have not looked to see the position or length of this mylar, but what if you extended the length of the mylar via adding a second piece so the ball is airborne sooner and landing before the switch. Would this help?

Or does the mylar divert the ball slightly left or right causing it not to roll over the switch directly. If so mo switch diversion will help

#2944 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I wonder if just adjusting the switch does the same.
Removing the mylar would be the same as raising the wire on the switch. (bending wire upward to switch is pressed sooner)

Tried that too, no success.

Be gone, mylar!

#2945 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It's not exactly the same. I think what happens is that a fast moving ball is launched into the air when it hits the front edge of the mylar. It then comes flying around the corner and makes contact with the switch at a less than optimal trajectory. Removing the mylar keeps the ball solidly rolling on the playfield so it makes proper contact with the switch wire.

That makes sense. Thanks!

#2946 2 years ago

To remove this Mylar do I need to remove any pf parts ? I plan on doing this today as soon as I get home from work. Been frustrating not registering those shots . Can't wait to try this out!!

#2947 2 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

To remove this Mylar do I need to remove any pf parts ?

No. You don't have to remove anything. Just lift the playfield and put it into the service position. This will give you better access to the back of the playfield. There is room to get your fingers in there and start peeling up the mylar near the switch. If you need to, you can slightly bend Stay Puft out of the way. Once you have it started, grab the mylar firmly with some needle nose plyers and slowly pull it off. It should come right up. Just make sure to clean up any adhesive that is left on the playfield before you start playing.

#2948 2 years ago

So I bought metal hex spacers from pinball life to fix right ramp and I got both 1-5/8 and 1-3/4. Both look bigger than I thought. Did I get the wrong size?

#2949 2 years ago

I recommend you use Goo Gone - 12 oz Spray Gel to get rid of the residue. Spray it on a paper towel or microfiber cloth rub in. Let it soak for 1-2 mins then take a dry cloth and get all the goo Gone off. Rinse and repeat until all glue is off and play field is bone dry.

#2950 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I bought metal hex spacers from pinball life to fix right ramp and I got both 1-5/8 and 1-3/4. Both look bigger than I thought. Did I get the wrong size?

I used the 1 3/4 as the 1 5/8 made the ramp seem too low. If you are concern the hex spacer isnt the right size measure it with a ruler.

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